Hands up all those whose first EC video was watching the carbon bonnet being made 12 years ago! As someone new to composites in general, that video back in 2012 was a hell of an education into the entire process.
Coming up on our video plan is to remake that video. In terms of the products and process, not a huge amount has changed, but watching the video now, it’s due a 2024 reboot!
@@easycompositesproducts2810 is there a chance in that video you cover what to do if the bonnet has been modified like with bonnet pins etc how to cover those holes for a mould up as you can’t use filler etc
Love this ! Paul and the team has helped me really push composites to a place I never thought was possible over the years. I made so many mistakes but was persistent in my quest to be better and now years on I’m fortunate enough to be featured on their website. Can’t thank them enough for all the help! 🙏🏼❤️
Quality content as usual, I’d just like to add that especially with applying the first layer of backing / glass many patterns can have a very tight external radius . Normal chop strand will not follow the contour easily. My solution is to use a lightweight glass woven tape , say 50mm wide and wrap this around the edge. 1-3 layers works well . I use it at a 45 deg fibre orientation. This can be done by cutting the strip of woven tape and pulling from opposite corners. Another trick is on the second layer of gel if you catch it at the right time the glass tape can be lightly payed on top while the gel is still relatively tacky. Lightly wipe and press down with a finger . This reduces the risk of voids behind the gel and makes corners stronger. On a very tight internal radius cut a hard edge and butt it up into the corner on both planes , then a second layer of glass can be torn and the feather edges used to bridge the corners. On very tricky molds I’ve gelled then used a fillet of either body filler or fibreglass paste. You do have to watch for distortion of the gel due to exotherm so go steady . After an initial backing coat I always use 40 grit to lightly knock back any stray fibres that would cause voids on subsequent layers . Often when making patterns where body filler has been used to modify bare filler can simply be wiped with polyester resin to seal the surface, this can often save time repainting the whole pattern . Sand back and a second coat if needed. All the above methods can be used for one off low volume applications, obviously production molds and oven cure molds it’s a different matter. Please note most of the above is fine for polyester gels and resins , Adhesion compatibility to unimold gel / resin may be a different matter. 👍
Thanks for the comment. All good advice 👍. Compatibility of these suggestions with Uni-Mould *should* be the same because, although it’s a vinylester gel (rather than conventional polyester) the gel will go down and behave the same as a polyester during application. The advantages of vinylester come after, where it’s a much more reliable mould surface for epoxy laminating, higher temp, harder wearing etc.
Hi to all. I never stop admiring by your tutorials. I think your channel is one of the best and professionally organized set of series helping amateur enthusiasts and professionals extend the frontiers of polymer parts fabrication. I do, wait with eager each and every video to grasp a new tip and trick😂😂😂. I thought I was proficient enough in moulds building as well as parts production but you always brought new approaches and methods. Literally in every new video. Thanks a lot and all the best to channel. I was just wondering how to order all your systems to deliver them to Central Asia. Impossible to transport by air. The problem with logistics... Please advise.
Hi, thanks for your comment and support. Some Asian countries are very difficult for us to reach by air. If your country is one of them then it’s hard to know what to suggest. The only idea would be to try to find some similar products or to maybe find our products being resold closer to you.
Hi Matt, we’ve got an announcement coming very soon about how we can better serve our American cousins. It’s not a full USA based Easy Composites just yet but it should be a close second. Stay tuned.
@@easycompositesproducts2810 I'm in Canada and can say as a regular EC customer, the experience has been excellent, as has the support (Thanks Warren!). You are price/quality competitive with anything I've found in the US, even with the rather exorbitant Dangerous goods and oversize shipping charges due to the transatlantic crossing. If you can improve upon the pricing and convenience even with the added cost of a US distribution center, all the power to you and best of luck! I'll remain a loyal customer either way. All the best, Jon Nelson
Hello, I want to use this process for an aluminum frame motorcycle. You mentioned that any metal shouldn't stick, but I'm wondering what about aluminum that had a matte finish from the factory? Exceptional video, and thank you so much.
Quite right! It’s easy to forget when we’re making this video in July at the height of the UK summer and it’s 13C outside that some places actually get warm 😂.
@@easycompositesproducts2810 my mistake your exactly right! Subscribed to both now! Would be interested to see a video in more detail of the room that you show around the 10.30m mark, looks a very professional set up!👍🏻
@@kingjnr2677 It's actually a paint mixing booth from Junair. We use it for decanting fine particle products and comes in handy for uni-mould projects as it keeps the neighbours happy.
Hi, I have a question: I am going to laminate a part with fiberglass. How many layers are needed to get a stiff part that can‘t be easily bent. I have read that 3 layers is good, but I use a 80g/sqm fiberglass, so I‘m not sure.
I have a question about ABS parts. I'm aware that the safe answer is to do a test (as you have stated in the video), but in theory an abs part (motorcycle fairing) which has been painted with 2k paint should work, right?
@@easycompositesproducts2810 Thank you for taking time to reply. Thankfully I was able to buy some spare panels for very little money so I will be able to experiment without risking damage to my originals.
Depends on the grade of the vinyl. Sometimes a vinyl wrap can be used that way to help protect a delicate panel underneath. But it is worth a small test to see if the styrene in the resin will react to it.
I have problem when I doing carbon fiber sheet . There is always a lack of saturation of the first layer.There is a small gap between the carbon fiber threads. Please can you help me?
It depends what process you are doing and what materials you are using as voids on the part surface can be caused by various things. If you can email us some details of the process and materials you are using, and some photos, then we can try and advise further. Our technical email is technical@easycomposites.com
Pretty sure that you’ll all be subscribed to our main channel but not this separate ‘products channel’ where we put more product specific content like this.
We’ve put this out in our ‘products’ channel which is separate to the main Easy Composites channel so it’s possible you were never subscribed? Either way, if detailed user guides like this are your thing then this is where we’ll put them out 👍.
@@easycompositesproducts2810 Ahh ok, I thgouth it was the YT algo that was playing games. Great stuff as always, I´m an engineer coming from R&D at one of the larger corporates in prosthesis/bionics. This should be mandatory to watch for newbis!
Hands up all those whose first EC video was watching the carbon bonnet being made 12 years ago! As someone new to composites in general, that video back in 2012 was a hell of an education into the entire process.
Coming up on our video plan is to remake that video. In terms of the products and process, not a huge amount has changed, but watching the video now, it’s due a 2024 reboot!
@@easycompositesproducts2810 that would be a great tribute.
☝🏼
@@easycompositesproducts2810 that would be a great tribute to the original series.
@@easycompositesproducts2810 is there a chance in that video you cover what to do if the bonnet has been modified like with bonnet pins etc how to cover those holes for a mould up as you can’t use filler etc
Love this ! Paul and the team has helped me really push composites to a place I never thought was possible over the years. I made so many mistakes but was persistent in my quest to be better and now years on I’m fortunate enough to be featured on their website. Can’t thank them enough for all the help! 🙏🏼❤️
Thank you for the comment. It’s great to hear about your journey and the part we’ve played in it. We wish you continued success.
Outstanding presentation. Very informative. Your quality is second to none.
Thank you very much, glad people are still enjoying this more detailed product oriented content.
Finally, a new Easy Composites video 😊
Good things come to those who wait! Also, we have a couple more that are now always ready. Stay tuned to the main channel for those.
Excellent as always !
Thanks again!
Quality content as usual, I’d just like to add that especially with applying the first layer of backing / glass many patterns can have a very tight external radius .
Normal chop strand will not follow the contour easily.
My solution is to use a lightweight glass woven tape , say 50mm wide and wrap this around the edge.
1-3 layers works well . I use it at a 45 deg fibre orientation. This can be done by cutting the strip of woven tape and pulling from opposite corners.
Another trick is on the second layer of gel if you catch it at the right time the glass tape can be lightly payed on top while the gel is still relatively tacky.
Lightly wipe and press down with a finger .
This reduces the risk of voids behind the gel and makes corners stronger.
On a very tight internal radius cut a hard edge
and butt it up into the corner on both planes , then a second layer of glass can be torn and the feather edges used to bridge the corners.
On very tricky molds I’ve gelled then used a fillet of either body filler or fibreglass paste. You do have to watch for distortion of the gel due to exotherm so go steady .
After an initial backing coat I always use 40 grit to lightly knock back any stray fibres that would cause voids on subsequent layers .
Often when making patterns where body filler has been used to modify bare filler can simply be wiped with polyester resin to seal the surface, this can often save time repainting the whole pattern . Sand back and a second coat if needed.
All the above methods can be used for one off low volume applications, obviously production molds and oven cure molds it’s a different matter.
Please note most of the above is fine for polyester gels and resins ,
Adhesion compatibility to unimold gel / resin may be a different matter.
👍
Thanks for the comment. All good advice 👍.
Compatibility of these suggestions with Uni-Mould *should* be the same because, although it’s a vinylester gel (rather than conventional polyester) the gel will go down and behave the same as a polyester during application. The advantages of vinylester come after, where it’s a much more reliable mould surface for epoxy laminating, higher temp, harder wearing etc.
Is that a side panel for an Audi R8? Someone at EC is upgrading their already nice car.
Another briliant video from you guys!
It is. This mould will feature in our (possibly next) video on the main channel, refreshing our resin infusion tutorial where we’ll make the blade.
I was just going to ask this but you beat me to it. 😀
Hi to all. I never stop admiring by your tutorials. I think your channel is one of the best and professionally organized set of series helping amateur enthusiasts and professionals extend the frontiers of polymer parts fabrication.
I do, wait with eager each and every video to grasp a new tip and trick😂😂😂.
I thought I was proficient enough in moulds building as well as parts production but you always brought new approaches and methods. Literally in every new video.
Thanks a lot and all the best to channel.
I was just wondering how to order all your systems to deliver them to Central Asia. Impossible to transport by air. The problem with logistics... Please advise.
Hi, thanks for your comment and support. Some
Asian countries are very difficult for us to reach by air. If your country is one of them then it’s hard to know what to suggest. The only idea would be to try to find some similar products or to maybe find our products being resold closer to you.
The lighting in your standard sub straight allows for good photos.
Como siempre,los mejores videos,muchas gracias
Glad you found it useful!
Les produits sont vraiment super 😊
Glad you like them.
Paul you are the best when talking about technique...
Now how the hell do we get products to your cousins in America...
Hi Matt, we’ve got an announcement coming very soon about how we can better serve our American cousins. It’s not a full USA based Easy Composites just yet but it should be a close second. Stay tuned.
@@easycompositesproducts2810 I'm in Canada and can say as a regular EC customer, the experience has been excellent, as has the support (Thanks Warren!). You are price/quality competitive with anything I've found in the US, even with the rather exorbitant Dangerous goods and oversize shipping charges due to the transatlantic crossing. If you can improve upon the pricing and convenience even with the added cost of a US distribution center, all the power to you and best of luck! I'll remain a loyal customer either way. All the best, Jon Nelson
How come I didn't know about this channel too?
Love this stuff, been using this for my bodykit mould. But now it seems like there is no companies in sweden that sells it anymore :(
You can order UniMould from Easy Composites EU (www.easycomposites.eu) and we can ship it straight to you from our Netherlands warehouse 👍
Hello, I want to use this process for an aluminum frame motorcycle. You mentioned that any metal shouldn't stick, but I'm wondering what about aluminum that had a matte finish from the factory? Exceptional video, and thank you so much.
No post cure if using at room temp. Right.
Post cure if using at over 40 degrees... huh?
I'm in Australia... those two aren't mutually exclusive! 😂
Ha mate, same here - and I though the very same thing.
Quite right! It’s easy to forget when we’re making this video in July at the height of the UK summer and it’s 13C outside that some places actually get warm 😂.
Thank you for such a thorough tutorial. Always enjoy them. My only complaint.... you guys aren't here in the US😞
Thanks for the comment. We’ll be announcing some big improvements to our US offering very soon so keep an on our site and socials.
@@easycompositesproducts2810 Looking forward to it👍
Awesome tutorial as usual! Yes looks like I had been unsubscribed as well!☹️
Thanks, glad you liked it. Unsubscribed from the channel? Maybe, because this is the separate products channel, you weren’t subscribed already?
@@easycompositesproducts2810
my mistake your exactly right! Subscribed to both now! Would be interested to see a video in more detail of the room that you show around the 10.30m mark, looks a very professional set up!👍🏻
@@kingjnr2677 It's actually a paint mixing booth from Junair. We use it for decanting fine particle products and comes in handy for uni-mould projects as it keeps the neighbours happy.
Hi, I have a question: I am going to laminate a part with fiberglass. How many layers are needed to get a stiff part that can‘t be easily bent. I have read that 3 layers is good, but I use a 80g/sqm fiberglass, so I‘m not sure.
I have a question about ABS parts. I'm aware that the safe answer is to do a test (as you have stated in the video), but in theory an abs part (motorcycle fairing) which has been painted with 2k paint should work, right?
It is less risky but that all depends on quality of the paint finish etc. I would still do a test to be on the safe side.
@@easycompositesproducts2810 Thank you for taking time to reply. Thankfully I was able to buy some spare panels for very little money so I will be able to experiment without risking damage to my originals.
Can you apply it to a vinyl wrapped panel or will it react with the wrap?
Depends on the grade of the vinyl. Sometimes a vinyl wrap can be used that way to help protect a delicate panel underneath. But it is worth a small test to see if the styrene in the resin will react to it.
I have problem when I doing carbon fiber sheet . There is always a lack of saturation of the first layer.There is a small gap between the carbon fiber threads. Please can you help me?
The first layer was 200g and the pressure was 1 bar. The surface of the mold was so clean
It depends what process you are doing and what materials you are using as voids on the part surface can be caused by various things. If you can email us some details of the process and materials you are using, and some photos, then we can try and advise further. Our technical email is technical@easycomposites.com
Odd, I was unsubscribed from this channel, I thought that only happened to gun related channels.
Kind of an odd comment from someone that isn't subscribed to anything. Maybe you aren't real.
Same
I was too, thanks for saying something which made me check!
Yeah what the heck.. Same here
Pretty sure that you’ll all be subscribed to our main channel but not this separate ‘products channel’ where we put more product specific content like this.
Who the hell Unsubscribed me from this channel? Fix it!!
We’ve put this out in our ‘products’ channel which is separate to the main Easy Composites channel so it’s possible you were never subscribed? Either way, if detailed user guides like this are your thing then this is where we’ll put them out 👍.
@@easycompositesproducts2810 It seems odd that you are splitting views between channels, you might be better off integrating the two!
@@easycompositesproducts2810 Ahh ok, I thgouth it was the YT algo that was playing games.
Great stuff as always, I´m an engineer coming from R&D at one of the larger corporates in prosthesis/bionics. This should be mandatory to watch for newbis!