So something a bit different this time as I'm still hard at work on the next Stagea episode but it hasn't quite finished cooking. I often get a lot of questions asking me for advice on how to get started with fiberglass and so I decided I would finally start a playlist solely on fiberglassing techniques. This first video covers the absolute basics, how to make parts in the simplest way possible but as I go on I will be covering more and more advanced techniques in detail. A quick disclaimer, I was never taught how to do fiberglass so everything I know is just stuff I picked up myself over the years I've been doing this. So there might be stuff that I cover that isn't how it's normally done, but everything I show is something that I do myself and it's worked for me. I will be back to working on the Stagea in my next video. Thanks for watching and if you'd like, consider supporting on Patreon for behind the scenes updates as well as videos up to a week before they go live on RUclips. www.patreon.com/TofuAutoWorks Thanks for watching
Dude sincerely thank you for this. I watch all your videos and am very impressed by your quality. I want to get into fiberglass too so you're exactly the right person to take lessons from
We the Internet thanks Thee. the amount of editing in your other videos prove how many hours you put into your work. i can't wait for the next one. it would be cool if you add a clock in the background lol
正直、日本の動画よりも解説が詳しくてわかりやすいと思う。ありがとう！ Honestly, I think the explanations are more detailed and easier to understand than Japanese videos. Thank you! From Japan
Love everything about your videos. They are not "viral videos" that go boom in a day and never to be watched again. But actual high quality videos that you can watch over and over again. I'm currently making a PANDEM(Kei Miura) inspired rear ducktail spoiler for my VW Golf MK6, and I've learned so much about custom bodywork from your channel. Totemo sugoi!
I'm currently saving up for a motorcycle custom build. With Brick House Builds for engine service and wiring, 46works for metal fabrication, Superfastmatt for the structural engineering, D4A for engine performance mods, and now you for the bodywork, it feels like having the avengers of RUclips mentors to help me with my endeavors!
Thats awesome dude, good luck with the build. And superfastmatt has some good videos on forged carbon, I always find there's a major lack of ham sandwiches in my composites. 😂
Your channel is an absolute goldmine of great content and in depth information filmed and demonstrated super clearly, absolutely loving it keep it up man!!!
A little tip, instead of using black dye in your resin (in this case), I just mix a small amount of whatever gel coat I use into the resin. Having tinted resin in my opinion makes the parts look so much more professional so I'm glad you also do it 👌🏻
Nice job. This is useful also for people like me who used to do work like this but don't do it now and now have projects at home and want to remind them self the technique. Also, if you can make tutorials for 3d scanning and creating parts, it will be very helpful to see what hardware and software you use and what the steps are and thank you for giving you knowledge and experience, man 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers mate! We'll have to see how popular these videos end up being and if people like them then I might branch off from just fiberglass and look at other things like scanning and CAD. Might be a bit tricky since unlike fiberglass which uses a few basic tools, there's a huge range of 3D scanners and the technology and approach changes quite a lot depending on what you have. But I'll look into it!
Very nice step by step. I have been making notes through all the videos. As a result, I only do the ‘quick n dirty’ mold release wax 😃🙈 But then again, I rarely use my molds twice 🤷♂️
while I definitely do not have the skill to make parts, like so many others I was definitely curious on how this is all done. Its really cool to see the process like this. :D
As an old German model builder, I have to say that you sometimes make it very complicated for yourself! There is no need to take breaks and let everything dry, you can do everything directly in one go and save yourself all the rework if you work really accurately! I would love to show you how you could do it better and faster, but unfortunately you are too far away!
Thanks for watching even though it sounds like you've definitely got some experience! And while it is possible to combine the fiberglassing into one step, this is a beginners tutorial and so I wanted to make it as fool proof as possible. As I'm sure someone with your experience will know, polyester resins like the one I've used here are known to shrink back slightly, and the best method for minimizing this effect is by building up the fiberglass slowly in multiple layers without adding too much heat. The other reason to split it up into 2 steps is because again, since this is for beginners, a lot of people just learning to fiberglass might mix too much resin or mix too much catalyst and it will start to cure on them rather fast. Doing 2 steps makes sure that there is plenty of time to get all the air bubbles out of the coupling coat. Lastly you'll notice that there was no filler or rollers used in this and all the airbubbles had to be poked out with just a chip brush and a skewer. Trying to do this with 3 layers of fiberglass is very tricky, especially with tight corners. And it gives you no opportunity to repair any airbubbles with the next layer of fiberglass.
@@TofuAutoWorks I understand what you mean. For tight corners, I would always recommend mixing resin with loose pieces of fiberglass to a pulp and then smearing it in the corners where air bubbles can form. Carrying out all the work steps directly one after the other also ensures that all layers connect better with each other. I have learned to wait with the pot life and then start directly with the resin layer and glass fiber. Leaving the gel code dry can lead to the fact that it does not bond so well with the lower fiberglass layer and later breaks out at some point.
@@Design-g5h Deutsch 😉 I haven't worked with it for the last few years, as you can see it's very time consuming, Tofu has been doing it for over a year now for this body kit, it can be done quicker but it's only worth it if you do it professionally, which I no longer do. Tuning in Germany has changed a lot and we have the TÜV here which doesn't allow many things or makes them very difficult! The TÜV wants to check all modifications to the car, which can be very expensive, and that puts many people off modifying their car. That's why there are hardly any people left who buy body kits and there is no longer a market for them.
The outcome of the work is nice but could you at least explain what are those mixtures you are making to get the work done and how long do you have to wait after each process is done?
If I were in charge of an automobile manufacturer, I would make him a special advisor and put him in charge of independent divisions such as GR, NISMO etc.
It is something you just get a feeling for. When I'm making a part for the first time and I have no idea how much it will take, I make a guess and then I'll sometimes mix up about half that amount and after applying that I'll know how much I need to finish it. If you try to mix up the full amount and end up only 50ml short or something, it can be tricky to measure out that small an amount of resin and catalyst accurately so I try to make sure I'm always mixing more than 100ml or so.
Would this work on a Subaru timing cover ? Or is there’d too many little details. I was looking to copy my EG33 ones since they don’t make them anymore
Did you add wax to the poly resin? If the first layer dries a little tacky after curing time, is it safe to add the second layer of fiberglass and poly resin?
This sort of polyester resin comes with wax added to it from the supplier so that it will air cure and not leave a tacky surface unlike the resin sometimes used in boat building.
My go to is always, coupling coat of 1 layer of 225 gsm, let that cure, then 2 layers of 450. It's nice and solid, and I've never had any issues with fenders, bonnets, bumpers etc..
This lip and most of the other things I will be making in this fiberglass basics series are just items for random cars that I have for sale here in NZ. This particular lip is part of my Miata widebody kit.
What were the names of all the chemical mixes you used before laying your fiberglass and after and how to know how much to mix together those parts were throwing me off but everything was really easy to see what you did
if you did, then it wouldn't stick... The PVA and mold release go on the mold surface. If you are using laminating resin, you can spray PVA on your final layer to let the final surface cure, like using waxed resin.
The goal with this video was to show how to make fiberglass parts at the lowest cost and with the fewest tools. I'll be making more of these gradually introducing more tools and techniques.
Thanks. Yes, if you can get a fiberglass roller it will make removing air bubbles much easier. It's also possible to make them yourself using metal washers.
Chopped strand is generally a lot easier especially for beginners. It conforms better to complex shapes and because you can rip it to shape, you're able to use it with almost no offcuts or waste unlike woven where you often have small scraps that you can't really use.
15:53 beautifully shown why making anything from fiberglass is worthless. Only ABS plastic, is flexible and durable... unfortunately the possibility of making anything from it is reserved for the few.
All of my videos include subtitles in multiple languages that cover in detail all the steps and materials included. The two black products I used in this video were gelcoat, which can be left off if you are making parts from scratch without a mould, and black dye added to my resin purely for cosmetic reasons.
Just a question, anyway to make a part, the fastest and still most accurate "copy" and strengthen wise not compromised.... like a fender or a front lip....⁉️ Nicely done! Like your videos...👍
To make a perfect copy you will need to make a mould, there are a few videos in the description on mould making. If you only want to make a single copy and you don't mind if it's slightly larger than it should be (about 3.5mm bigger on all sides for fiberglass, and between 1.0 - 2.5mm for carbon fiber) then you could skin the part in fiberglass or carbon after apply release agent to the part itself, and then pop that new skin off the part and do any required finishing or sanding work. This method is pretty common for people replacing roofs or quarter panels with carbon fiber, simply lay the carbon over the existing part, remove the carbon once it's dried, cut the original part away, then bond the carbon back in place.
Vacuum infusion is what is used when you need a very precise and uniform application of resin, but it just doesnt make sense for parts this simple and cheap.
Bro, you can't do this. You can't post a video making a part and then not show the part mocked up on a car. Its like watching someone make food and then they don't take a bite. Or watching someone paint and they never show you the finished product. Ahhhhh I need to see it 🤦♂😂
The videos in this series are mostly focused on the process rather than the end product. A lot of what I will be making are parts that I have for sale, most of them for cars that I don't have on hand and so there is nothing to fit them to.
@@TofuAutoWorks It was really an interesting move It is true, for example, the language of my country is not English, but I can use subtitles In general, I think that because English is universal, you can speak and have subtitles And this was just a suggestion. I did not mean to be disrespectful. Always loved your videos.❤
Thanks for all your vids, besides hours of others contents ive been able to produce multiple molds even more complex split molds. My latest was a copy of a hatch and a copy of my car door. Question tho is how do you accound for the difference in thickness compared to oem? I did create a boltable flange to my doors split mold but found it difficult still to line it all up with material laid, not to mention i couldnt really lay both sides at the same time to then clamp them when wet. Others have suggested i lay one side, let dry then lay other still wet and bolt down. Would you lay less material down on edges where the inner and outter skin would meet when bonding to account for the thickness difference compared to oem? My copies came out really nice besides being a bit thick and not laying flush when door was closed to the body 😔
When I've made bonnets for clients that had inner and outer skins the way I made them was by laying up the inner skin in its mould first and letting it cure to the point where I could trim the excess fiberglass off with a sharp knife. I made the inner skin a bit thinner than normal, I think only 1 layer of 225 and one layer of 450 at the same time. Then I did the main layup of 2x 450's on the outer skin of the bonnet (+ coremat reinforcement in the center) and then placed the inner skin onto wet fiberglass and gently clamped together. I see this customer regularly and he has taken that car to multiple race events and is still very happy with it. It's sort of unavoidable with fiberglass that you will end up with a part a little thicker than pressed sheet metal and so you may have to accommodate for this when making them. I've bought sheet thickness wax in 2mm which I sometimes add on top of mounting tabs of thin steel so that when I make moulds off it, it will be the correct placement for the thicker fiberglass part. However it sounds like the issues with your doors could be fixed by adjusting the latch / striker plates if it's the rear or hinges if it's the front.
@TofuAutoWorks thanks for the insight man! Yea I figured that it's inevitable you'll have some differences but I'd say it might be a big difference with the door I made, the fitment is pokey even without the rubber trim so can only imagine with the trim on it will stick out more. I have tried to install the latch a bit more in (that's the side that sticks out, swinging side seems just fine). I'll attempt it again and see if I can get a bit better fitment by applying what you suggested and if I can't get any better than oh well, full race car fitment and I'll do the other door. I have played with carbon infusion a bit and I assume carbon gets a bit better fitment because of vacuum bagging compressing the crap out of the layers making it super thin. I guess I could vacuum bag the fiberglass copy too after a wet lay tho might start kicking before I get the bag on. Anyway lol another shot we'll give! Thanks!!
So something a bit different this time as I'm still hard at work on the next Stagea episode but it hasn't quite finished cooking.
I often get a lot of questions asking me for advice on how to get started with fiberglass and so I decided I would finally start a playlist solely on fiberglassing techniques. This first video covers the absolute basics, how to make parts in the simplest way possible but as I go on I will be covering more and more advanced techniques in detail.
A quick disclaimer, I was never taught how to do fiberglass so everything I know is just stuff I picked up myself over the years I've been doing this. So there might be stuff that I cover that isn't how it's normally done, but everything I show is something that I do myself and it's worked for me.
I will be back to working on the Stagea in my next video.
Thanks for watching and if you'd like, consider supporting on Patreon for behind the scenes updates as well as videos up to a week before they go live on RUclips.
www.patreon.com/TofuAutoWorks
Thanks for watching
Dude sincerely thank you for this. I watch all your videos and am very impressed by your quality. I want to get into fiberglass too so you're exactly the right person to take lessons from
We the Internet thanks Thee. the amount of editing in your other videos prove how many hours you put into your work. i can't wait for the next one. it would be cool if you add a clock in the background lol
Awesome
You have no idea how much I wanted this video out of you. It's like.... the key to your car
正直、日本の動画よりも解説が詳しくてわかりやすいと思う。ありがとう！
Honestly, I think the explanations are more detailed and easier to understand than Japanese videos. Thank you! From Japan
Love everything about your videos. They are not "viral videos" that go boom in a day and never to be watched again. But actual high quality videos that you can watch over and over again. I'm currently making a PANDEM(Kei Miura) inspired rear ducktail spoiler for my VW Golf MK6, and I've learned so much about custom bodywork from your channel.
Totemo sugoi!
I'm currently saving up for a motorcycle custom build. With Brick House Builds for engine service and wiring, 46works for metal fabrication, Superfastmatt for the structural engineering, D4A for engine performance mods, and now you for the bodywork, it feels like having the avengers of RUclips mentors to help me with my endeavors!
Thats awesome dude, good luck with the build. And superfastmatt has some good videos on forged carbon, I always find there's a major lack of ham sandwiches in my composites. 😂
I'm about to start doing fiberglass work on my car so this came out just in time! Thanks
What an amazing tutorial, together with Pask Makes you’re by far my favourite RUclips channel!
Thanks mate!
Excellent video. Thanks for posting. Very informative. Cheers from Texas.
The Joy of Fiberglassing with Tofu Auto Works
A masterclass. Very cool to see the you explain every reason for the decisions made.
Great work as always!
without question the most helpful video I have seenabout laying up fiberglass in complex shapes... wish I had seen it sooner
i admire this guy using an angle grinder as a dremel
Excellent video for beginners in fiberglass! Very clear and well explained, directly to the pont!
I nearly fell out of my chair laughing at the “beat the devil out of it” bit 🤣
this video is perfect timing as i'm just about to make a full body kit for my car ( starting with a front lip ) thank you for the great video!
Good job Tofu, joli tuto sur la fibre de verre.🎉
Your channel is an absolute goldmine of great content and in depth information filmed and demonstrated super clearly, absolutely loving it keep it up man!!!
A little tip, instead of using black dye in your resin (in this case), I just mix a small amount of whatever gel coat I use into the resin.
Having tinted resin in my opinion makes the parts look so much more professional so I'm glad you also do it 👌🏻
Nice job. This is useful also for people like me who used to do work like this but don't do it now and now have projects at home and want to remind them self the technique. Also, if you can make tutorials for 3d scanning and creating parts, it will be very helpful to see what hardware and software you use and what the steps are and thank you for giving you knowledge and experience, man 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers mate! We'll have to see how popular these videos end up being and if people like them then I might branch off from just fiberglass and look at other things like scanning and CAD. Might be a bit tricky since unlike fiberglass which uses a few basic tools, there's a huge range of 3D scanners and the technology and approach changes quite a lot depending on what you have. But I'll look into it!
Круто!!! Наблюдаю за твоими работами. У тебя золотые руки! 👍🏻
Very nice step by step.
I have been making notes through all the videos.
As a result, I only do the ‘quick n dirty’ mold release wax 😃🙈 But then again, I rarely use my molds twice 🤷♂️
I don't even have a car but damn this is a good tutorial. It was pretty entertaining to watch
while I definitely do not have the skill to make parts, like so many others I was definitely curious on how this is all done. Its really cool to see the process like this. :D
おっ？
今日はリップ製作動画ですな？
こーやって１から説明して作ってくれるから優しいんだよなぁ。
無理せずに頑張っていこうね！
"For some reason there's alot of dust in my workshop. No idea why."
The world is full of mysteries. 😆
Спасибо! Очень интересно и познавательно! Нашёл для себя некоторые важные моменты, которые упускают в других видео
Thank you
You really help everyone. Your videos are awesome. Congratulations
Класс. Теперь можно будет посмотреть базовые вещи в работах со стекловолокном и смолами. 👍
Oh thank god, i was a little bit worried that there's no sanding in this vid 😄👍
Haha, I have to include at least some sanding in every video, it's in my contract. 😂
Doing the lords work with this video! Wonder if making a carbon version would be kind of similar
So awesome that you put out another vid much love from the sf bayarea.
As an old German model builder, I have to say that you sometimes make it very complicated for yourself! There is no need to take breaks and let everything dry, you can do everything directly in one go and save yourself all the rework if you work really accurately! I would love to show you how you could do it better and faster, but unfortunately you are too far away!
Thanks for watching even though it sounds like you've definitely got some experience!
And while it is possible to combine the fiberglassing into one step, this is a beginners tutorial and so I wanted to make it as fool proof as possible. As I'm sure someone with your experience will know, polyester resins like the one I've used here are known to shrink back slightly, and the best method for minimizing this effect is by building up the fiberglass slowly in multiple layers without adding too much heat.
The other reason to split it up into 2 steps is because again, since this is for beginners, a lot of people just learning to fiberglass might mix too much resin or mix too much catalyst and it will start to cure on them rather fast. Doing 2 steps makes sure that there is plenty of time to get all the air bubbles out of the coupling coat.
Lastly you'll notice that there was no filler or rollers used in this and all the airbubbles had to be poked out with just a chip brush and a skewer. Trying to do this with 3 layers of fiberglass is very tricky, especially with tight corners. And it gives you no opportunity to repair any airbubbles with the next layer of fiberglass.
@@TofuAutoWorks I understand what you mean. For tight corners, I would always recommend mixing resin with loose pieces of fiberglass to a pulp and then smearing it in the corners where air bubbles can form. Carrying out all the work steps directly one after the other also ensures that all layers connect better with each other. I have learned to wait with the pot life and then start directly with the resin layer and glass fiber. Leaving the gel code dry can lead to the fact that it does not bond so well with the lower fiberglass layer and later breaks out at some point.
upload a video of how you would do it then plz
Make a video my ferman friend
@@Design-g5h Deutsch 😉 I haven't worked with it for the last few years, as you can see it's very time consuming, Tofu has been doing it for over a year now for this body kit, it can be done quicker but it's only worth it if you do it professionally, which I no longer do. Tuning in Germany has changed a lot and we have the TÜV here which doesn't allow many things or makes them very difficult! The TÜV wants to check all modifications to the car, which can be very expensive, and that puts many people off modifying their car. That's why there are hardly any people left who buy body kits and there is no longer a market for them.
Great video that’s for sharing. Always a pleasure.😊
Mega useful video for beginners such as myself :)
Great video as always, Bob Ross 😉
😊SALUTE YOUR HARD WORK SIR 💪 👏 🎉
That was a short one this week. And almost without sanding 🙂
Superfast Matt says "You will never not sand." lol
This vodeo is amazing. thank you for making it!
Всё как всегда на высоте 👍.
2:25 I have the same calculator. I used to use it for highschool way back in the day.
invaluable, thank you so much
The outcome of the work is nice but could you at least explain what are those mixtures you are making to get the work done and how long do you have to wait after each process is done?
Fam this was a seriously cool video🎉
Brilliant 👍
Another good video!! Good described. I'm still trying to find a good adress to buy the same resin aso here in austria
If I were in charge of an automobile manufacturer, I would make him a special advisor and put him in charge of independent divisions such as GR, NISMO etc.
Amazing tutorial sir tofu! One more question tho, do you calculate the amount of resin before laying up the fiberglass or its just a feeling 😅!
It is something you just get a feeling for. When I'm making a part for the first time and I have no idea how much it will take, I make a guess and then I'll sometimes mix up about half that amount and after applying that I'll know how much I need to finish it.
If you try to mix up the full amount and end up only 50ml short or something, it can be tricky to measure out that small an amount of resin and catalyst accurately so I try to make sure I'm always mixing more than 100ml or so.
@@TofuAutoWorks makes sense thanks for the answer!!
soooooooooo gooooooooood bro!
Anther geat video bro! Keep it up :))
Well done sir
Magnifique 😊
Шикарно!!!
Awesome video.that tutorial i was try to find.Thanks
Cute sand timer... LOL
Sir. How did you sculpt the original?
ba que lindo que ficou.
Would this work on a Subaru timing cover ? Or is there’d too many little details. I was looking to copy my EG33 ones since they don’t make them anymore
love the bob ross beating
Did you add wax to the poly resin? If the first layer dries a little tacky after curing time, is it safe to add the second layer of fiberglass and poly resin?
This sort of polyester resin comes with wax added to it from the supplier so that it will air cure and not leave a tacky surface unlike the resin sometimes used in boat building.
Hi u r very good nice work
How many layers of fibreglass would you say is sufficient for body panels and bumpers?
My go to is always, coupling coat of 1 layer of 225 gsm, let that cure, then 2 layers of 450. It's nice and solid, and I've never had any issues with fenders, bonnets, bumpers etc..
@TofuAutoWorks cheers, thankyou
I mean where do you get the mold? It is hardest part.
Beat the devil out of it :0 HE KNOWS
I tthink I might have an idea where all he dust comes from. haha Out of curiousity, what does that lip fit and what other parts are you producing?
This lip and most of the other things I will be making in this fiberglass basics series are just items for random cars that I have for sale here in NZ. This particular lip is part of my Miata widebody kit.
What were the names of all the chemical mixes you used before laying your fiberglass and after and how to know how much to mix together those parts were throwing me off but everything was really easy to see what you did
Gel coat is generally catalyzed with 2% MEKP, and poly resin with 1%. If you use metric measurements you don't need a calculator. :)
Yea sinple to make provided you have a mold please show us how you made that tanaka san
日本語字幕ありがとう！
Don't you feel itchy? How do you deal with it?
No need for the pva and wax mold release after the gelcoat prior to the first layer of fiberglass mat?
if you did, then it wouldn't stick... The PVA and mold release go on the mold surface. If you are using laminating resin, you can spray PVA on your final layer to let the final surface cure, like using waxed resin.
Drill a small hole and separate the mold with compressed air
don’t you usually use a consolidating roller? also i thought you might make it an ENTIRE video without sanding, but nope… :) :)
The goal with this video was to show how to make fiberglass parts at the lowest cost and with the fewest tools. I'll be making more of these gradually introducing more tools and techniques.
Wht use cemicl name?
So now I understand why my parts arn´t coming out right, I fogot to put the TOFU sticker on ;-)
Very excellent. I follow you on RUclips. I asked you before Sadiq to send me 2 iron rolls to release the air. I hope you can advise. Thank you.
Thanks. Yes, if you can get a fiberglass roller it will make removing air bubbles much easier. It's also possible to make them yourself using metal washers.
My dear friend, I stopped sending you this iron roll. I can't understand anything. @@TofuAutoWorks
Why do you use the chopped fiber fiberglass instead of woven mats?
Chopped strand is generally a lot easier especially for beginners. It conforms better to complex shapes and because you can rip it to shape, you're able to use it with almost no offcuts or waste unlike woven where you often have small scraps that you can't really use.
Can that resin be sprayed with a paint gun?
There's a special gun for the gel coat.
Nice example showing how unsupported gel coat easily gives way but I'm not sure if everyone understands what you were trying to show.
15:53 beautifully shown why making anything from fiberglass is worthless. Only ABS plastic, is flexible and durable... unfortunately the possibility of making anything from it is reserved for the few.
Que es el producto negro?
Gracias por tu respuesta... Saludos
All of my videos include subtitles in multiple languages that cover in detail all the steps and materials included.
The two black products I used in this video were gelcoat, which can be left off if you are making parts from scratch without a mould, and black dye added to my resin purely for cosmetic reasons.
It's like looking at the same shit over and over again for the last 2 years
Vc tem que umedecer a peça primeiro antes de depositar a manta, se não o fizer, a manta não dá uma boa pega no gel.
Just a question, anyway to make a part, the fastest and still most accurate "copy" and strengthen wise not compromised.... like a fender or a front lip....⁉️
Nicely done! Like your videos...👍
To make a perfect copy you will need to make a mould, there are a few videos in the description on mould making.
If you only want to make a single copy and you don't mind if it's slightly larger than it should be (about 3.5mm bigger on all sides for fiberglass, and between 1.0 - 2.5mm for carbon fiber) then you could skin the part in fiberglass or carbon after apply release agent to the part itself, and then pop that new skin off the part and do any required finishing or sanding work.
This method is pretty common for people replacing roofs or quarter panels with carbon fiber, simply lay the carbon over the existing part, remove the carbon once it's dried, cut the original part away, then bond the carbon back in place.
i wonder why the place that you sanded for a month straight in is so dusty ;)
👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾👌🏾
❤
Methlamine doesn't grow on trees....where can one get it? That's the catch...
Tbem, é muito mais fácil e rápido laminar com um rolinho de lã, o que tambem elimina as bolhas no laminado.
it looks very thin unless you maybe attach with heavy duty double sided tape
I'm also Repair fyber material things
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
bare hands too
まさかの ボブ・ロス^ ^
Holy shit
Why haven't anybody introduced a new application process than the dab dab dab dab dab dab dab
Mind: I shall build a machine that will apply the best even coat of resin to avoid this
Love your vid
Vacuum infusion is what is used when you need a very precise and uniform application of resin, but it just doesnt make sense for parts this simple and cheap.
I can't hear anything, it's like those movies where everything has subtitles, the actors speaks Korean
Did the cat got your tongue?
Can this guy talk or is he just don’t want to How to make the mold would be a start
Bro, you can't do this. You can't post a video making a part and then not show the part mocked up on a car. Its like watching someone make food and then they don't take a bite. Or watching someone paint and they never show you the finished product. Ahhhhh I need to see it 🤦♂😂
The videos in this series are mostly focused on the process rather than the end product. A lot of what I will be making are parts that I have for sale, most of them for cars that I don't have on hand and so there is nothing to fit them to.
why you dont talk?
By doing subtitles I can provide my videos in multiple languages.
@@TofuAutoWorks It was really an interesting move
It is true, for example, the language of my country is not English, but I can use subtitles
In general, I think that because English is universal, you can speak and have subtitles
And this was just a suggestion. I did not mean to be disrespectful.
Always loved your videos.❤
Thanks for all your vids, besides hours of others contents ive been able to produce multiple molds even more complex split molds. My latest was a copy of a hatch and a copy of my car door. Question tho is how do you accound for the difference in thickness compared to oem? I did create a boltable flange to my doors split mold but found it difficult still to line it all up with material laid, not to mention i couldnt really lay both sides at the same time to then clamp them when wet. Others have suggested i lay one side, let dry then lay other still wet and bolt down. Would you lay less material down on edges where the inner and outter skin would meet when bonding to account for the thickness difference compared to oem? My copies came out really nice besides being a bit thick and not laying flush when door was closed to the body 😔
When I've made bonnets for clients that had inner and outer skins the way I made them was by laying up the inner skin in its mould first and letting it cure to the point where I could trim the excess fiberglass off with a sharp knife. I made the inner skin a bit thinner than normal, I think only 1 layer of 225 and one layer of 450 at the same time.
Then I did the main layup of 2x 450's on the outer skin of the bonnet (+ coremat reinforcement in the center) and then placed the inner skin onto wet fiberglass and gently clamped together. I see this customer regularly and he has taken that car to multiple race events and is still very happy with it.
It's sort of unavoidable with fiberglass that you will end up with a part a little thicker than pressed sheet metal and so you may have to accommodate for this when making them. I've bought sheet thickness wax in 2mm which I sometimes add on top of mounting tabs of thin steel so that when I make moulds off it, it will be the correct placement for the thicker fiberglass part. However it sounds like the issues with your doors could be fixed by adjusting the latch / striker plates if it's the rear or hinges if it's the front.
@TofuAutoWorks thanks for the insight man! Yea I figured that it's inevitable you'll have some differences but I'd say it might be a big difference with the door I made, the fitment is pokey even without the rubber trim so can only imagine with the trim on it will stick out more. I have tried to install the latch a bit more in (that's the side that sticks out, swinging side seems just fine). I'll attempt it again and see if I can get a bit better fitment by applying what you suggested and if I can't get any better than oh well, full race car fitment and I'll do the other door. I have played with carbon infusion a bit and I assume carbon gets a bit better fitment because of vacuum bagging compressing the crap out of the layers making it super thin. I guess I could vacuum bag the fiberglass copy too after a wet lay tho might start kicking before I get the bag on. Anyway lol another shot we'll give! Thanks!!