Perfect. Experiencing the same issue and already spent money on wrong things. It would start and drive with no issues when cols but as soon as I have traveled a distance or engine gets properly warm then it would just stall in middle of traffic. Great video.
Dude, I have watched so many videos about my issue with the car, not starting, and this is the only one that has recommended to unplug the sensor and try to start. It started right up after two days of continuous replacements.
Thank you so much!! I had the same issue on my 2000 CRV. Replaced fuel pump and no luck. Then I found your video. It was the ETC sensor. My wife and I are very appreciative 🙏
Have a 97 honda that would shut off on me on the freeway when it got too hot… never owned a honda before… but thought it would be the crank shaft position sensor and I even changed the main relay as well… boy was I wrong… after searching online I learned and tested that it was the ignition igniter… these , after learning, are common issues on honda of this year when it gets to hot it will shut off as a precautionary… I had purchased a from Autozone but I replaced it 4 times because they wouldnt last… ending going through Ebay and buying an OEM igniter for my make and model… more pricier but havent had my car shut off since that day… I also replaced the ignition coil for a NGK one… glad I was able to find that brand and part for the car…
Got this issue today. Hot weather, came home from work, 30min later the car didn't start at all. Battery good. Now dashboard is dead, but i get lights on it for a split second after unplugging the sensor and plugging it in again. EDIT: Honda code for the sensor is 37870-PJ7-003
SOLUTION: the battery was faulty. Had an Optima Yellow 38Ah installed 6 years ago, voltage meter shows 12,65V, but when I charged the Optima with CTEK 5V charger the volts jumped to 15+ momentarily. Heard a hissing sound also wich should not happen with AGM-batteries. Replaced Optima with Exide 45Ah and problem solved.
Is that sensor called the ETC sensor? I’m having a similar issue, sporadic start issues with a warm engine, but it’s also a difficult start when cold. Dies quickly. Finally stays running after several cranks. My PGM FI light came on yesterday too, for the second time in a month. My mechanic thinks I need a new starter, but I’m not sure about that diagnosis. Any Thoughts? I have a 1987 Honda SI 1.5 Fuel injected.
I doubt that a coolant sensor is your issue. Starter is also unlikely to be the issue. I would investigate the fuel injector light, the computer should store the code for what exactly caused the light to come on
Sometimes when I drive it for a while in the stop signs it idles super low an turns off an sometimes when I go to the gas stations i turn it off an don’t wanna turn on till it cools off
Check the pgm fi located in the dashboard-passenger side when you open the door. Faulty if you don't hear a click or there is a loose solder on the board after turning the key. Possible other problem will also be distributor (ignition spark control module, ignition coil), idle control valve or timing belt.
I want to know too. We’ve replaced just about every sensor, plus new distributor (with new cam sensor and new coil), distributor cap, rotor, TPS, 02 sensors, etc…it’s expensively exhausting.
You could mess up the firing order if you remove the wires and replace them in the wrong order, but you can do this while leaving the wires attached to the cap. Removing the cap doesn't affect timing
Игры
Hey man, pulled the plug on the sencor and jumped it, and after probably 3 years of sitting, she fired right up. Thank you!! Much love homie!
Perfect. Experiencing the same issue and already spent money on wrong things. It would start and drive with no issues when cols but as soon as I have traveled a distance or engine gets properly warm then it would just stall in middle of traffic. Great video.
Dude, I have watched so many videos about my issue with the car, not starting, and this is the only one that has recommended to unplug the sensor and try to start. It started right up after two days of continuous replacements.
Thank you so much, I would consider redoing this video, and titling it, 2000 Honda CRV will not start, but will crank
This worked for me! 2001 CR-V been having this issue and already tried the throttle position sensor. My part cost $47 at Auto Zone.
Brilliant! Fixed it straight away! Thanks So Much! Great Advice!
✌😎
Sounds like my same issue. Replaced so many things, and nothing worked. Thanks for the video. Hope this works.
Thank you so much!!
I had the same issue on my 2000 CRV.
Replaced fuel pump and no luck. Then I found your video. It was the ETC sensor.
My wife and I are very appreciative 🙏
Have a 97 honda that would shut off on me on the freeway when it got too hot… never owned a honda before… but thought it would be the crank shaft position sensor and I even changed the main relay as well… boy was I wrong… after searching online I learned and tested that it was the ignition igniter… these , after learning, are common issues on honda of this year when it gets to hot it will shut off as a precautionary… I had purchased a from Autozone but I replaced it 4 times because they wouldnt last… ending going through Ebay and buying an OEM igniter for my make and model… more pricier but havent had my car shut off since that day… I also replaced the ignition coil for a NGK one… glad I was able to find that brand and part for the car…
Got this issue today. Hot weather, came home from work, 30min later the car didn't start at all. Battery good. Now dashboard is dead, but i get lights on it for a split second after unplugging the sensor and plugging it in again. EDIT: Honda code for the sensor is 37870-PJ7-003
SOLUTION: the battery was faulty. Had an Optima Yellow 38Ah installed 6 years ago, voltage meter shows 12,65V, but when I charged the Optima with CTEK 5V charger the volts jumped to 15+ momentarily. Heard a hissing sound also wich should not happen with AGM-batteries. Replaced Optima with Exide 45Ah and problem solved.
Really Helpful Thanks, I'll try this and leave a comment later 👍😎
Thank you bro
I was already going crazy whit this thing. I have the same issue on my 98 civic
Great video thanks
Thank you, saved me a couple $$$.
Thank you!!
Did you have your check engine light pop on before you figured this out?
Do you know if this issue could be the same on gen 2 CRV’s?
what do u call that sensor again?
you said it has 2 wires right?
thanks
Is that sensor called the ETC sensor? I’m having a similar issue, sporadic start issues with a warm engine, but it’s also a difficult start when cold. Dies quickly. Finally stays running after several cranks. My PGM FI light came on yesterday too, for the second time in a month. My mechanic thinks I need a new starter, but I’m not sure about that diagnosis. Any Thoughts? I have a 1987 Honda SI 1.5 Fuel injected.
I doubt that a coolant sensor is your issue. Starter is also unlikely to be the issue. I would investigate the fuel injector light, the computer should store the code for what exactly caused the light to come on
Sometimes when I drive it for a while in the stop signs it idles super low an turns off an sometimes when I go to the gas stations i turn it off an don’t wanna turn on till it cools off
My described problem was correctly diagnosed as a bad main relay. It’s always something with an antique car! It’s an oxygen sensor issue this week!
@@curtconroy8789 I check my car right now at oreillys it said it could be fuel filter or oxygen sensor
This is a PGM-FI with loose solder that give up when the board overheat.
01 crv, I drive it home from work but if I try to start it again it won’t start, could replacing distributor cap, wires and spark plugs help?
Check the pgm fi located in the dashboard-passenger side when you open the door. Faulty if you don't hear a click or there is a loose solder on the board after turning the key. Possible other problem will also be distributor (ignition spark control module, ignition coil), idle control valve or timing belt.
my crv 1998 present maybe same the problem . when engin cold starting is good but when egine hot off and start againt it won't start. thanks
Sounds like main fuel relay. Take it out and resolder the joints.
Same problem, did you solve it?
@@alexiroc did you ?
I want to know too. We’ve replaced just about every sensor, plus new distributor (with new cam sensor and new coil), distributor cap, rotor, TPS, 02 sensors, etc…it’s expensively exhausting.
@@numberpirate that’s exactly what mine ended up being, the main fuel relay.
Doesn’t taking off the distributor cap mess up the timing?
You could mess up the firing order if you remove the wires and replace them in the wrong order, but you can do this while leaving the wires attached to the cap. Removing the cap doesn't affect timing
Note for everyone: Put a straight line marker from distributor to engine , to get the same timing when you put it back.
Can u help me
It was a bad distributor for me.. even though it was new