This video shows the repair of a rusty gas tank on a 5hp Briggs and Stratton Roto-tiller. If you enjoy, hit the like button and subscribe!!! Thanks for watchin.
From mower to tillers n power washers and snow blowers Bruces tube videos are excellent. Thank you Bruce.. I learn something new every time I watch one.
First let me say your videos are an inspiration and a God send. I am restoring a 1974 Ariens Front Tiller (4hp B+G Vacujet Horizontal Shaft, Belt drive in rear, No drive assist.) After watching several videos and liking them, I have finished rebuilding/cleaning the carb. She started up after a little seasonal maintenance and tilled a 4'x10' strip in early Spring. However a few weeks later, after only running for about 8', she stalled out. She was also very hot IMHO, but I didn't have my thermometer handy to check. Upon further inspection, the tank was disgusting inside and what I once thought was a thin layer of grease in various section of the machine turned out to be, in some cases, almost 1/2" thick. In any case, after rebuilding the carb and ordering a new set of gaskets, I am trying to finish off the cleaning of the tank. I followed your tip about attaching it to the mower, but I used copper BB's instead of nuts and bolts and it worked great. I have washed out the inside until the wash ran clean, but now am confused about your comment regarding the reuse of the Methyl Hydrate by 'filtering out' the water left in the MH after using it to rinse out the tank. How do you 'filter the water out of methyl hydrate' so you can reuse the methyl hydrate? My research indicates that in the USA, methyl hydrate is sometimes referred to as 'denatured alcohol' (a mix of Ethyl and Methyl alcohols) or just Methyl Alcohol diluted to something less than 100% with water or other chemicals (eg Fuel Line anti-freeze in little yellow bottles, etc). I can't seem to find much on the process and wondered a. Why go to the trouble of "filtering" out the water assuming that there is little left in the tank after draining the water wash. b. What is the safest way to "filter" the water out of the Methyl Hydrate so you may reuse the MH to get more water out of the tank? (my imagination is going to either a distilling method which involves heat; No thanks, or some type of specific gravity device ala grannies special gravy cup that let's you separate the broth from the fat at Thanksgiving.) Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If I said filter I didn't mean it. Methyl hydrate is basically gas line antifreeze. So to absorb the water out of the tank and leave some sort of flammable residue I rinsed out the tank with methyl hydrate. You can almost go to 50- 50 water MH mix and it will still burn (as left in the gas). Sorry for the confusion. I am happy you are moving forward o your project. I didn't reuse any MH.
Great work! One trick I learned for shaking the nuts and bolts around in a rusty tank, is to wrap the tank up in an old towel, put it in the clothes dryer, pack other rags and towels around it and fire up the dryer with the heat turned off. That evap-o-rust works well too!
Great job! That tiller is in very nice shape and looks like it wasn’t left sitting outside at all. Love the green and yellow too! Edit: just realized this was 6 years ago LOL!
Great tips! Another method is to pour pea-sized gravel into the tank, seal of the openings, then shake in a paint shaker for several minutes. Re-clamp in the shaker in several positions to get all surfaces. The gravel will remove all the scale. Follow up with a phosphoric acid treatment.
I recently repaired a rusted B&S tank, but I did it by soaking it in a bucket of apple cider vinegar for a week or two. It worked a treat. I would have used evaporust, but I couldn't get a large enough quantity to immerse the tank in at a reasonable cost or timeliness. Vinegar was cheap and locally available.
Evapo-Rust is a great product. I used it along with nuts, screws and washers to clean out the inside of a sixty gallon air compressor tank I redid for my shop. I have to admit attaching the tank to the wheel of the garden tractor was a hoot.
I've come to find that if you fill the tank all the way up on those goofy psycho carb setups, they cold start much easier. Rusty gas tanks are a pain! I used to work in an old car shop, and we would use the heated power washer on the big tanks. Thanks for sharing, sounds good.
a tiller that tills then stalls is usually a rusted tank. i put a little two stroke oil in all of my lawn equipment to combat rust. it will foul the plug after alot of hours, though. another way to combat rust in any gas tank is to drop a magnet in the tank . it will catch most of the rust
@Derrick Smiley I am amusing it is a horizontal shaft. Actually any one with a proper size shaft will do. The newer one have a bit more RPM but the older ones have torque. I would just find something affordable as tillers are only used (usually) about 10 hours a year.
PA LAWN GUY> Good job Bruce. I would bet Evaporust contains phosphoric acid. Most of these products due and the concentration is a little weak. We use it in the aviation industry. You can get phosphoric straight and it usually works better and costs less that way, but be careful, don't leave it too long and have holes. Use it until the surface is all black with no whitish residue when dry. All the rust has been converted at that point. Be careful!! Neutralize with a baking soda paste and then baking soda and h2o,and then H2O. Again, if possible, use a paint shaker and clean gravel or hardware (small nuts/bolts). Keep up the "RUclipsrs".
Those old briggs engines are really bullet proof. The metal tanks are surely a pain when fouled with rust and gum, and I'm sure a new tank costs a fortune if still available. I never thought I would hear myself saying a plastic tank might be better, but I realize that would be tough to engineer for this particular engine/carb set up. I have often wondered about rigging something up like a paint shaker to help clean out these old tanks. Was the starter clutch gummed up causing the recoil to mess up?
Actually gave me an idea. I gotta check the depth but I bet I can use a $8 1 gallon gas can or a tank off an old 110 cc 4-wheeler. Just gotta cut some holes and make sure the plastic will hold tight to the carb.
Does Evaporust coat the inside of the tank to freeze any rust left? If you don't get all rust out the motor will run a while and will quit from the rust flaking off and clogging the little screen on the pick up tube. I would not pour gas into a running engine. One backfire could get you burnt
Hi Very nice video, I tied my fuel tank to the inside of my cement mixer with small pebbles and sand, also with vinegar and water. but the reservoir has a lot of holes in it, so is this bad ? Thanks
Yes. If the tank is leaking there is only 2 more steps and that is using a sealer. As well a new tank can be ordered. Use google to find one. Sorry I don't have more. Bruce
Why exactly didn't the tank line up? I'm considering just buying a new carb for my 5hp B&S and the tank you have on that tiller looks like the one I have currently. But the only carb I can find would fit the tank you said doesn't fit. I'm just wondering if those carbs are interchangeable though.
Thank you for another great video Bruce! What kind of solvent do you use to clean the tank? Thanks for all you do for us newbies have a wonderful weekend.
hey Bruce, I can keep my 2011 5 horse power b&s rototiller running if I continually "prime the carb" but it dies when I stop priming.... any tips to help this gal out. I have some spark at the plug. Thanks in advance! I like to save money.
Well this is a lawn mower but quite often the carb jet (That looks like a bolt) plugs off. Take a look at this. It is a lawn mower but it still a small motor. About 440 into the video ruclips.net/video/oVxkmBIBgic/видео.html
I have the same issue with a 5hp Briggs and Stratton shredder. The gas tank have a lot of rust, about 8oz or more of rust. I try muriatic acid, vinegar and hot water. I clean the tank and don’t run. Now I buy an eBay new carburator and wait to try again.
Use muriatic acid. $10 for a gallon at home Depot. Rinse with lots of water and a little baking soda. Let it dry and you'll get a nice orange light flashover rust. Then seal it with por 15 if needed. The poor 15 will bite into the Orange rust. Sometimes I'll throw a handful of pennies in there with the muriatic acid
I'm waiting for my Vapo-Rust for same POS Tank. always like to see more than 1 person's take on a product. And Please Drop the addressing viewers as "Tuber's" It's insulting.
Well if you look this video was made in the year 2013. Everybody called the subs "tubers" back then. It has been 8 years since then. I can't change an 8 year old video.
My tank has a plastic sponge like material inside. Is that stuff removable or should i leave it be ? its soaking in Vinegar now as prep for a rebuild kit.
next time use easy off oven cleaner it will eat the rust off to metal again like new without hurting the tank and it works for more then just fuel tanks
*** If it has some SERIOUS rust then use muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) as mine was so bad that cider vinegar& ascorbic acid mix didn't do a whole lot nor did a rust remover solvent due to the extreme amount of rust in a 1977 B&S fuel tank .... use enough so it is about a 0.5 " or a little less in depth rotate tank every 10min or so as to coat all sides including the top now keep a good eye on its progress as it does not take long to 100% complete rust removal, carefully drain then flush twice afterwards ... she is shiny now without ANY elbow grease either :-) BUT be careful and wear rubber gloves and safety goggles as this WILL burn.
Sorry I never did get a drawing o it. Mr. Google is smart though. Either 130202 or 494592. I got those off of Ebay. Just google those numbers to check, there are a few types.
In my case the fuel tray just inside where the carburetor bolts on top of the tank was so badly rusted, it disintegrated when I took the carb off, and B&S discontinued the fuel tank my roto-tiller uses (490491) and it's replacement (495376). I ended up pulling the tank apart at the seam and spot welding a replacement tray I took off a different model B&S fuel tank. Not a particularly fun job but I had no other options.
Oh well lets be nice because negative comments to the video maker are annoying too. When ever I get a negative comment from a viewer I check to see if they have ever made a video and they usually never have.
Wow. That's rather rude. I found it refreshing to be called something other than "guys" or "youtubers" it's his channel, he can operate it and say what he pleases. That's the beauty of the internet - if you don't like it, go elsewhere. Love the videos Bruce! Some aren't really helpful to me but fun to watch and others are very informative and now I have some winter projects on 3 weed eaters I have that won't run right and general maintenance for my mower, snow thrower and lawn mower - thank you :)
From mower to tillers n power washers and snow blowers Bruces tube videos are excellent. Thank you Bruce.. I learn something new every time I watch one.
You know what !!! So do I, I learn something every day
First let me say your videos are an inspiration and a God send.
I am restoring a 1974 Ariens Front Tiller (4hp B+G Vacujet Horizontal Shaft, Belt drive in rear, No drive assist.)
After watching several videos and liking them, I have finished rebuilding/cleaning the carb.
She started up after a little seasonal maintenance and tilled a 4'x10' strip in early Spring.
However a few weeks later, after only running for about 8', she stalled out. She was also very hot IMHO, but I didn't have my thermometer handy to check.
Upon further inspection, the tank was disgusting inside and what I once thought was a thin layer of grease in various section of the machine turned out to be, in some cases, almost 1/2" thick.
In any case, after rebuilding the carb and ordering a new set of gaskets, I am trying to finish off the cleaning of the tank. I followed your tip about attaching it to the mower, but I used copper BB's instead of nuts and bolts and it worked great.
I have washed out the inside until the wash ran clean, but now am confused about your comment regarding the reuse of the Methyl Hydrate by 'filtering out' the water left in the MH after using it to rinse out the tank.
How do you 'filter the water out of methyl hydrate' so you can reuse the methyl hydrate?
My research indicates that in the USA, methyl hydrate is sometimes referred to as 'denatured alcohol' (a mix of Ethyl and Methyl alcohols) or just Methyl Alcohol diluted to something less than 100% with water or other chemicals (eg Fuel Line anti-freeze in little yellow bottles, etc).
I can't seem to find much on the process and wondered
a. Why go to the trouble of "filtering" out the water assuming that there is little left in the tank after draining the water wash.
b. What is the safest way to "filter" the water out of the Methyl Hydrate so you may reuse the MH to get more water out of the tank? (my imagination is going to either a distilling method which involves heat; No thanks, or some type of specific gravity device ala grannies special gravy cup that let's you separate the broth from the fat at Thanksgiving.)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If I said filter I didn't mean it. Methyl hydrate is basically gas line antifreeze. So to absorb the water out of the tank and leave some sort of flammable residue I rinsed out the tank with methyl hydrate. You can almost go to 50- 50 water MH mix and it will still burn (as left in the gas). Sorry for the confusion. I am happy you are moving forward o your project. I didn't reuse any MH.
Great work! One trick I learned for shaking the nuts and bolts around in a rusty tank, is to wrap the tank up in an old towel, put it in the clothes dryer, pack other rags and towels around it and fire up the dryer with the heat turned off. That evap-o-rust works well too!
In trouble with the dryer boss too :-)
Great job! That tiller is in very nice shape and looks like it wasn’t left sitting outside at all. Love the green and yellow too! Edit: just realized this was 6 years ago LOL!
Thanks for watching.
@@BrucesShop You haven’t aged a day in 6 years Bruce!
I just sold a nice rock tumbler to a gem collector, I like yours a lot better!
Thanks It was a fun job
Great tips! Another method is to pour pea-sized gravel into the tank, seal of the openings, then shake in a paint shaker for several minutes. Re-clamp in the shaker in several positions to get all surfaces. The gravel will remove all the scale. Follow up with a phosphoric acid treatment.
I have done that too.
I recently repaired a rusted B&S tank, but I did it by soaking it in a bucket of apple cider vinegar for a week or two. It worked a treat. I would have used evaporust, but I couldn't get a large enough quantity to immerse the tank in at a reasonable cost or timeliness. Vinegar was cheap and locally available.
That is a great idea. thank you
Evapo-Rust is a great product. I used it along with nuts, screws and washers to clean out the inside of a sixty gallon air compressor tank I redid for my shop. I have to admit attaching the tank to the wheel of the garden tractor was a hoot.
I had fun.
I've come to find that if you fill the tank all the way up on those goofy psycho carb setups, they cold start much easier. Rusty gas tanks are a pain! I used to work in an old car shop, and we would use the heated power washer on the big tanks. Thanks for sharing, sounds good.
Thank you Jon
Jon Myers
I have 3 of these tanks. I wish we were closer you could have one. Darn.
Right I would cost WAY too much to ship.
Still have any of theses tanks? TIA
I use nuts and bolts to clean inside of the tank but that gravel worked much better I'll have to buy. a small bag...great video thanks..
This is an older video. I use bevelled edge bolts now.
Wow fantastic idea hats off for sure
Thank you! Cheers!
how much pull cord should i need on puller very good lighing bruce good job
This was filmed in the year 2013. WOW More than an arm pull on the cord
a tiller that tills then stalls is usually a rusted tank. i put a little two stroke oil in all of my lawn equipment to combat rust. it will foul the plug after alot of hours, though. another way to combat rust in any gas tank is to drop a magnet in the tank . it will catch most of the rust
Great tips
love your garage. your chevy looks nice too.
thanks a lot!!!
I want that dual shaft engine so bad. I didn't even know they existed until a week ago.
They are cool eh !!!!
Nice work !!!
That John Deere looks brand new :)
I rebuilt the John Deere this year it is an 86. It took me all summer
@Derrick Smiley I am amusing it is a horizontal shaft. Actually any one with a proper size shaft will do. The newer one have a bit more RPM but the older ones have torque. I would just find something affordable as tillers are only used (usually) about 10 hours a year.
PA LAWN GUY> Good job Bruce. I would bet Evaporust contains phosphoric acid. Most of these products due and the concentration is a little weak. We use it in the aviation industry. You can get phosphoric straight and it usually works better and costs less that way, but be careful, don't leave it too long and have holes. Use it until the surface is all black with no whitish residue when dry. All the rust has been converted at that point. Be careful!! Neutralize with a baking soda paste and then baking soda and h2o,and then H2O. Again, if possible, use a paint shaker and clean gravel or hardware (small nuts/bolts). Keep up the "RUclipsrs".
Thanks Jerry i wrote it down
Those old briggs engines are really bullet proof. The metal tanks are surely a pain when fouled with rust and gum, and I'm sure a new tank costs a fortune if still available. I never thought I would hear myself saying a plastic tank might be better, but I realize that would be tough to engineer for this particular engine/carb set up. I have often wondered about rigging something up like a paint shaker to help clean out these old tanks. Was the starter clutch gummed up causing the recoil to mess up?
+kramden I think it was just goo in the recoil
Actually gave me an idea. I gotta check the depth but I bet I can use a $8 1 gallon gas can or a tank off an old 110 cc 4-wheeler. Just gotta cut some holes and make sure the plastic will hold tight to the carb.
Does Evaporust coat the inside of the tank to freeze any rust left?
If you don't get all rust out the motor will run a while and will quit from the rust flaking off and clogging the little screen on the pick up tube.
I would not pour gas into a running engine. One backfire could get you burnt
No it converts the rust. Good for you for not putting gas into a running motor. I do
Hi
Very nice video, I tied my fuel tank to the inside of my cement mixer with small pebbles and sand, also with vinegar and water. but the reservoir has a lot of holes in it, so is this bad ? Thanks
Yes. If the tank is leaking there is only 2 more steps and that is using a sealer. As well a new tank can be ordered. Use google to find one.
Sorry I don't have more.
Bruce
Cool video
nice job
Thanks
Why exactly didn't the tank line up? I'm considering just buying a new carb for my 5hp B&S and the tank you have on that tiller looks like the one I have currently. But the only carb I can find would fit the tank you said doesn't fit. I'm just wondering if those carbs are interchangeable though.
A lot of them are just a little different. shop carefully.
Pretty tiller
Thanks
What is the part number for the new gasket(s) you used for the rebuild? So frustrating when key information like that is left out.
This is an old post but maybe this will help someone. Sorry for the edit this is the part number for everything. 495606
a.co/2rHqlpT
Maybe if you asked a little nicer he would have answered you
Oh and jam nuts work great.
true
Thank you for another great video Bruce! What kind of solvent do you use to clean the tank? Thanks for all you do for us newbies have a wonderful weekend.
I think this one was just paint thinner. This is an older video.
@@BrucesShop Thanks Bruce! What is your favorite solvent for cleaning outside of break cleaner?
hey Bruce, I can keep my 2011 5 horse power b&s rototiller running if I continually "prime the carb" but it dies when I stop priming.... any tips to help this gal out. I have some spark at the plug.
Thanks in advance! I like to save money.
Well this is a lawn mower but quite often the carb jet (That looks like a bolt) plugs off. Take a look at this. It is a lawn mower but it still a small motor. About 440 into the video
ruclips.net/video/oVxkmBIBgic/видео.html
I have the same issue with a 5hp Briggs and Stratton shredder. The gas tank have a lot of rust, about 8oz or more of rust. I try muriatic acid, vinegar and hot water. I clean the tank and don’t run.
Now I buy an eBay new carburator and wait to try again.
Keep trying. Good luck.
Do you still have the tank that you mentioned in the video from the donor engine ?
Wpw This video was filmed in 2013. I think the tank is long gone. So sorry
If I recall correctly, that style Brigs carburetor does not work well without the air cleaner or at lest the center screw.
+theoldwizard998 My old 3.5 tiller is like that.
Use muriatic acid. $10 for a gallon at home Depot. Rinse with lots of water and a little baking soda. Let it dry and you'll get a nice orange light flashover rust. Then seal it with por 15 if needed. The poor 15 will bite into the Orange rust. Sometimes I'll throw a handful of pennies in there with the muriatic acid
Thanks Charles.
empty a can of pb blaster in it next time and use a bunch of clean nuts and bolts and shake it, it works great
Muriatic acid works well
Do you have a video of how you made that lawnmower lift?
+XToxicAngel It was a gift from my wife. I did a video of it which tells all. Here is the link.ruclips.net/video/yv7FtFWRHaU/видео.html
Too clever.
Right. Considering I made this video in 2013. haha
I'm waiting for my Vapo-Rust for same POS Tank. always like to see more than 1 person's take on a product. And Please Drop the addressing viewers as "Tuber's" It's insulting.
Well if you look this video was made in the year 2013. Everybody called the subs "tubers" back then. It has been 8 years since then. I can't change an 8 year old video.
Bruce one time I worked on a tiller for someone and he said it wasn't running right it didn't have a goverer spring
Yes the governor is an important part.
If you just had a green and yellow Korean Car now .
Well it runs good
I need that gas tank it will fit my pulan pro with a 5hp Briggs and Stratton
You can get them on EBAY.
My tank has a plastic sponge like material inside. Is that stuff removable or should i leave it be ? its soaking in Vinegar now as prep for a rebuild kit.
As long as it is intact and not falling apart I would leave it.
bruce, the sponge-like material in my tank is rotting and coming apart. can i just remove it without any problems? thank you.
Yes if you get it all out.
can you show how to connect throttle cable and on/off cable and how to attach govern spring please?
+Matthew Jaikissoon Sorry my friend this video is older than 2 years. But when another machine like this comes in I will do that.
Oh yesterday I hooked it up. Gas was leaking some how and it blew up in front of me
do you still have that doner motor tank?
sorry I traded it for a different motor.
ok thanks i just needed the tank mines rusted but you do great work!
I have used small driveway rocks ,wash with water then vinegar with success.
Thanks
Is the muffler elbow 3/4" bsp or 3/4 npt?
3/4 npt Not sure about bsp???
@@BrucesShop British Special or something like that.
@@benrobles752 We would call it standard thread up here.
how does the reverese work?
It is just a pulley in the motor that just turns backwards.
next time use easy off oven cleaner it will eat the rust off to metal again like new without hurting the tank and it works for more then just fuel tanks
Ok I will try it.
Muriatic acid works well
A $5.00 bag of fish tank gravel and white vinegar works great and is cheap.
I like that
Use por-15 marine clean, metal prep , and gas tank sealer and you will never have to do it again
Thanks
Soaking the tank in Apple Cidar Vinegar would work better.
Great North Woods Hillbilly I will try it next time thanks
That does work well I can confirm..
I had the same problem and tried nuts and bolts to get rid of the rust, it didn't do a damn thing, I'm still looking for a tank!!
You can also treat with Evaporust.
*** If it has some SERIOUS rust then use muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) as mine was so bad that cider vinegar& ascorbic acid mix didn't do a whole lot nor did a rust remover solvent due to the extreme amount of rust in a 1977 B&S fuel tank .... use enough so it is about a 0.5 " or a little less in depth rotate tank every 10min or so as to coat all sides including the top now keep a good eye on its progress as it does not take long to 100% complete rust removal, carefully drain then flush twice afterwards ... she is shiny now without ANY elbow grease either :-) BUT be careful and wear rubber gloves and safety goggles as this WILL burn.
Thanks for the info.
Acid works great for making pinholes in your otherwise good tank. What did you do with the drain off? Dump it on the ground, or in the creek out back.
can anyone get me a part number fot gas tank with reservor
Sorry I never did get a drawing o it. Mr. Google is smart though. Either 130202 or 494592. I got those off of Ebay. Just google those numbers to check, there are a few types.
spending all that money wouldnt be cheaper to buy another tank?
For me it is all about saving money. Sorry
In my case the fuel tray just inside where the carburetor bolts on top of the tank was so badly rusted, it disintegrated when I took the carb off, and B&S discontinued the fuel tank my roto-tiller uses (490491) and it's replacement (495376). I ended up pulling the tank apart at the seam and spot welding a replacement tray I took off a different model B&S fuel tank. Not a particularly fun job but I had no other options.
Cheapest I can find is around $80.
New carb is $16 on Amazon...
In the states.
@@BrucesShop Yes sir.. Amazon or Ebay.. Most guys don't even rebuild them anymore. Most carbs are around $20 or less with gaskets and 2 day shipping..
@@BAZZAROU812 That same carb up here would be at least $40. Canadian.
Plus shipping.
Have you got a link I couldn't find the exact one?
I just couldn't listen to him calling his viewers "tubers" or "tubes" any longer. What is the deal with that annoying habit?
Oh well lets be nice because negative comments to the video maker are annoying too. When ever I get a negative comment from a viewer I check to see if they have ever made a video and they usually never have.
Wow. That's rather rude. I found it refreshing to be called something other than "guys" or "youtubers" it's his channel, he can operate it and say what he pleases. That's the beauty of the internet - if you don't like it, go elsewhere. Love the videos Bruce! Some aren't really helpful to me but fun to watch and others are very informative and now I have some winter projects on 3 weed eaters I have that won't run right and general maintenance for my mower, snow thrower and lawn mower - thank you :)
This is a 4 year old video too. Thanks for the support.
Gregory Edwards He thinks we are all potato's?
You really need to get rid of the habit of calling your viewers tubes! It's very irritating.
A lot of us You tube guys do that sorry it slips out.
I like "Utubers".
Dang was looking for a play by play on how it was done. Total waste
I get it. Perhaps you should make a few more videos being as the only one you made was in 2015
Bruce Pender actually I wasn’t leading peeps to a dead end guy. Lol I need help with carb disassembly. Nothing useful here is all.