John, nice intro about your Grandfather, Unlike you, I would have spent 30 bucks on parts and cleaners, 60 bucks on beer and take 2 weekends to complete the same job...... Plus I would have a mystery part left over.......Nice Job.
Just a little bit of advice for you on the lower carburetor bolt. Install the carburetor first before you attach the fuel tank to the carburetor? Then you can access the lower bolt easily and you will be able to use a socket and extension to install that lower bolt? That way the fuel tank is not in the way? You should be able to remove the top mount screws from the fuel tank and the carburetor mount screws? At least that's what I have always been able to do? whenever I have done one of those types of carburetor rebuilds? I hope that is a little bit of help to you? But I have been fooled before? There might be something else in the way if that's not possible?
I got my dad's tools and my daughter will inherit them and pass them to her boys. Saving small engines is a passion. I have a near-mint late 90's edger I just bought with a 3.5hp Briggs that I'll do the very same thing on. Hasn't run in 20 years. Hope Briggs finally gets their stock of carb kits replenished!
I must say I have been watching videos for well over 2 hours on this very carburetor and for being your first time you did great. You video is the best, most in depth that I have seen . Thanks a million for making it.
"I missed one" - minutes 11:01. That was the screw on the top of the carb. I was fighting today for 45 minutes before I gave up. Stuck exactly there. LOL! Thank you very much!
Been looking all over for info about this specific carb. I was scratching my head about my carb also not having the adjustable pilot jet in the side. Mine is same as yours, it has no point on the end and is a hollow screw with side holes that appears to just screw in almost all the way until it stops. Thanks for posting this.
Awesome tribute to your GranPa. You spent more money on cleaners than a replacement carb costs. I enjoyed watching your video. Thank you! I'm working on the same carb in your video, thanks for your time.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a B&S powered edger that just started acting up. I didn’t want to deal with the headache of working on the carburetor so I took it to the shop. They said the carburetor had failed, but they couldn’t fix it. I found an OEM one. I toyed with buying the carb rebuild kit. may still and return the carb I bought, but you have showed so much on on the fiddley bits. I know it’s mechanics not rocket science, but thank you. I believe this will really help….
I would add the following to your video. The screw that you put into the side of the carburetor has a very small hole in the end and use a small diameter piano wire to remove any ethanol residue. I also used the same wire to remove residue from the hole that the screw fits into. I live in Los Angeles and have problems with gasoline with ethanol. The gas evaporates and leaves a residue and you cannot run the motor. I now use a product called Ethanol Shield and it works great in small gasoline engines and in cars with carburetors. I have cleaned many carburetors that had ethanol residue and recommend fuel preservatives.
Six thumbs up 👍Really, your grandpa would be proud of you! Donyboy’s videos encourage me to clean my on ride mower’s carburetor tomorrow when all the parts are here. We see: it is just a question that you dare to do things on your own and try it. Made from men for men, men should understand it, is my motto 🤓👍 Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
Thank you for showing, i think its really cool how you thought of your Grandfather, i also never met my Grandfather, he passed when my Dad was only 11 yrs old. The air adjustment screw can be installed on most, if you take that cap off and order the kit to install, not all can be done this way, like you were told, most of these small engines were designed to use for 3 yrs and then trash, if the Engineering don't do it, the Gas will, its sad where America has gone on any kind of quality control or pride in what we make, its all about the Greed!!! Thanks Again and God bless my Brother.
Just wanted to thank you for the video! Got a Sears power washer for free and it has the exact same engine! Never took a small engine apart before. Followed your video and it started right up! So for the $14 gasket kit and a little time, I have a $250 power washer thanks to you!
Exact same job i have done on MTD leaf vac.Replaced diaphram,cleaned carb and replaced tank gasket.Started first time.Nice video,it just takes patience.
...John, I'm a little late to the party, but really enjoyed the video.....being a DIY guy, you have given me the confidence to try this myself on an old log splitter I inherited from my dad that has a 5 hp B&S...very similar....gonna give it a go... :)
Hello, I would suggest to anyone attempting a first time rebuild to always take pictures before taking apart. Linkages especially and positions as to what goes where. This way it can be used as a reference for the reassembly and will avoid frustration.
I have this exact carb and tank setup on a tiller. Last time I ran it was maybe 8 yrs ago. Went to use it and you guessed it... wouldn't run. Drained gas and checked the diaphragm which seems to be ok. Put gas in and proceeded to try and start it... nothing! My son then observed the gas leaking out of the bottom of the tank. Disassembled everything and drained gas... let dry, removed the foam and soldered an obvious hole, coated tank interior with Red Coat sealer. While waiting several days to thoroughly dry, I checked the spark... had none. Replaced coil pickup and pull rope and spark plug. Sparks just fine now. Reassembled and put gas in. Pulled my arm out of joint... no start. Will run when spraying starter fluid into carb just fine. So that's where I'm at... it's not sucking gas into the carb from the tank. Figure I will take the carb back off and do a thorough cleaning this time and let soak in a cleaning bath. Usually I can get a small engine repaired and running in an hour or so... this one is starting to get to me...
Excellent Video! Thank you for making it! My 1992 5HP MTD chipper/shredder has virtually the same carb. There should also be a foam filter inside the cover that requires washing and re-oiling. Before disassembly, download the exploded parts diagrams for the engine from part supplier websites. They are a big help during reassembly.
thanks for this video. i just rebuilt the carb on my friend's log splitter in exchange for the use of said splitter for a couple of weeks. your video helped out a great deal. goodbye pile of logs, hello firewood! 😊
Good job! I just did this yesterday on my for horse tiller. Only thing I could see that I did differently was to remove the fuel tank from the carburetor and the engine first! This allow me to access the bottom screw holding the carb to the engine easily. Made reassembly much easier!
I was wondering if all of this clearing/cleaning could have been done by only removing the fuel tank, and the fuel pimp area and that floppy gasket. All of the problems were in the fuel intake area.
+Land Designs Unlimited LLC cleaning that little hole that rests in the bowl was the ticket. while I had it apart for the fourth time I did some extra cleaning too. thanks again!
Outstanding Video...gave me confidence to do the job myself rather than paying someone to do it! Had not realized that leaving gas with ethanol in the tank over the winter/extended time causes gunk to buildup in the tank. Also, learned there are places that sell non-ethanol gas to prevent this from happening. I watched this video as I have a tiller with the same fuel tank/carb. that needs rebuilt. The only thing I was unable to see is where the spring goes on the backside lower section of the tank. When I pulled my tank off, this spring was dangling. So if anyone has a good pic of where to connect this spring, that'd be great.
Thank you for the presentation and attitude as much as for the rebuild. A very pleasant watch. Now comes the hard part. I'll attempt an old rototiller carb rebuild myself. I can turn a wrench but it's all those little parts going back where they belong that are the challenge. Aloha.
I just picked up a Craftsman chipper with the same engine. Had water in the oil, gas tank and carb. The piston was seized and also the chipper blades. Hit it with WD40 and the engine freed up. Only issue is it will only run when feeding fuel through the carb?? Still impressive.
Very informative video. As good as it gets. Now why did you remove the gas tank also and not just the carb on its own. Is there no floating bowl in this type of carburetor . I am going to clean my carb on a 50 year old Briggs and Stratton Garden Tiller and the carburetor looks similar to yours.
Great job & fantastic video! Very clear and great camera work, I just picked up one of these and the carburetor needs rebuilt. Again thanks for filming it then posted it.
Dude at the parts store lied to you if he told you that you only need one gasket! Always replace the carb to tank gasket. Also, word of advice: always run a wire through the venturi passage (the tiny hole you referred to). I did the same as you did twice, before watching a video about cleaning this passage with a wire. After I did this, it ran on the second pull. My carb has a spring on that screw, not sure if yours should have.
"Apparently, carb and choke cleaner eats through gloves." I chuckled when you said that, because I recently had the same realization in the same manner.
Interesting about your grandfather, My grandfather was named Johnny white as well. He owned an Oldsmobile dealership in Kellogg, Idaho and later in Colville, Wa. And... He died just before I was born, as well.
thats nice, Ive got a couple of my grandfathers tools too. he died before I was born as well. My other grandad played the fiddle. he played for me once when I was 6 but his wife told him to stop. then we moved a long way away, i never saw him again before he died. cest la vie.
There's a short little stud sticking out of the carb near one of the holes for a cover screw. There is a hole in the diaphragm that goes over the stud. If you put the diaphragm on over the stud and the other holes don't line up, then remove it and flip it over and place it over the stud. Then all the holes will align.
Went through this last weekend and almost said what you did word for word haha! I got the go kart running, but something about the small "governor spring" isnt right and after starting first pulls a dozen times, it doesnt want to start now and I am needing to connect the throttle cable also. I had Never worked on any small carbed motors.
The sponge-like material in the tank is to keep the gas from splashing around, I assume. Mine pretty much disintegrated. Is there a problem with running a tiller without it?
I was wondering if all of this clearing/cleaning could have been done by only removing the fuel tank, and the fuel pimp area and that floppy gasket. All of the problems were in the fuel intake area.
The screw at 17:00 is a needle valve screw that controls idle speed. It is adjustable and is supposed to have a pointed tip and a spring to prevent movement. Looks like someone just ground the tip flat and screwed it in all the way.
The needle shown is the correct needle for that location on this specific carb. It's the "Jet Pilot" screw, not the "valve-idle" as per the parts diagram. If anyone is looking for a parts diagram just Goggle "1134 e1" and select the diagram for Carburetor Group.
@@cbpunk You are correct. At first, I couldn't figure out why my screw looked like the one in this video and it had no spring around it. All other videos I watched had needle valves with springs. It wasn't until I saw the parts diagram for my specific carburetor model number that I realized that some carbs have needle valves and others don't.
Great great video I think we have another Johnny white.. keep up the good work..and if u work on other people's stuff fix it like it's yours .. he would be proud 👍🙏
Hi, nice video !So I have the same motor on a rear tine tiller. Bought the same part you showed here and disassembled everything and cleaned up and it seems it only wants to start now when the tiller has been sitting for awhile. If i turn it off and try again it won't. The only way to get it going is to take off the airbox and it starts up.Also when the tiller is under load in dirt it sounds great but with tines above soil or sitting still running it sounds just like yours did before you repaired it.....any ideas ? thanks.
sounds like a dirty air filter for one. if you mean it surges when it runs unloaded, I believe that is just the governor keeping the engine from running full speed unloaded.
Nice job on the video. So far, the only one I've found on this carburetor. BUT, you kinda lost me when you said "spritz" carb cleaner. Maybe it's an east coast term but sounded more like a hairspray term. 😊
Where did you find the gasket kit and what part number is it. I find some online but i'm not sure if they'll fit. I would like to find it locally but i can't seam to find anything.
Great video, only suggestion would be NOT to spray carb choke cleaner right on the intake valve stem. That flushes all the lubricant off the valve stem and does not lead to anything good.
Ethanol in the gasoline is the culprit. It destroys anything rubber, and absorbs moisture from the air, so over time gunk and rust accumulates in carb's and small engines. The best defense is to buy and use only Premium fuel with no ethanol content. Here would be Esso or Shell for instance. Next is to keep the engines covered when parked outside. I have the exact same fuel tank and carb and had to do the same rebuild. Unfortunately I had to trash the fuel tank and buy a new one because the fuel tank was so badly rusted.
@@jameswarner5224 I purchased a tank off of Amazon. It was a B&S tank but not the correct one. So I remembered the Marines idea of Adapt, Improvise and Overcome. And I made the tank work.
How do you replace jet it comes in rebuild kit but couldn't figure out I bought a 6.5 predator engine for$100 brand new best $100 I ever spent harbor freight Honda repop started first pull right out of box just added gas and oil
In addition to the video in all your small engines (lawnmower, atv,wood splitter, all small engines) USE ONLY HIGH TEST GASOLINE I REPEAT ONLY HIGH TEST GASOLINE AS IT HAS NO ETHANOL) your engines will always run much better.
i have seen ppl run a surging motor with 50/50 mix of gas and seafoam to clean out the carb. hmm after the disassembly and cleaning. maybe get some of that fuel injector carb cleaner that you put in the gas tank of your car?? don't have to go crazy with the stuff, just enough to keep it clean.
John, nice intro about your Grandfather, Unlike you, I would have spent 30 bucks on parts and cleaners, 60 bucks on beer and take 2 weekends to complete the same job...... Plus I would have a mystery part left over.......Nice Job.
Joe. Sounds like a plan.
You can order that carb on ebay for 10 bucks
@@moonrider19681 Wherefore on eBay?
Just a little bit of advice for you on the lower carburetor bolt. Install the carburetor first before you attach the fuel tank to the carburetor? Then you can access the lower bolt easily and you will be able to use a socket and extension to install that lower bolt? That way the fuel tank is not in the way? You should be able to remove the top mount screws from the fuel tank and the carburetor mount screws? At least that's what I have always been able to do? whenever I have done one of those types of carburetor rebuilds? I hope that is a little bit of help to you? But I have been fooled before? There might be something else in the way if that's not possible?
I got my dad's tools and my daughter will inherit them and pass them to her boys. Saving small engines is a passion. I have a near-mint late 90's edger I just bought with a 3.5hp Briggs that I'll do the very same thing on. Hasn't run in 20 years. Hope Briggs finally gets their stock of carb kits replenished!
I must say I have been watching videos for well over 2 hours on this very carburetor and for being your first time you did great. You video is the best, most in depth that I have seen . Thanks a million for making it.
"I missed one" - minutes 11:01. That was the screw on the top of the carb. I was fighting today for 45 minutes before I gave up. Stuck exactly there. LOL! Thank you very much!
Well done. I’m on my second engine refurb. Never did it before in my life and now I’m hooked.
Been looking all over for info about this specific carb. I was scratching my head about my carb also not having the adjustable pilot jet in the side. Mine is same as yours, it has no point on the end and is a hollow screw with side holes that appears to just screw in almost all the way until it stops. Thanks for posting this.
Thanks for the video and the intro about your grandfather. Makes it that much more special working with those tools.
Awesome tribute to your GranPa. You spent more money on cleaners than a replacement carb costs. I enjoyed watching your video. Thank you! I'm working on the same carb in your video, thanks for your time.
Great job! Hey , first time! Pretty good!By now 7 yrs later, probably , easy peesy !👌
Good job bud your Grandpa would have been proud keep the videos coming
Thank you so much for this video. I have a B&S powered edger that just started acting up. I didn’t want to deal with the headache of working on the carburetor so I took it to the shop. They said the carburetor had failed, but they couldn’t fix it. I found an OEM one. I toyed with buying the carb rebuild kit. may still and return the carb I bought, but you have showed so much on on the fiddley bits. I know it’s mechanics not rocket science, but thank you. I believe this will really help….
I would add the following to your video. The screw that you put into the side of the carburetor has a very small hole in the end and use a small diameter piano wire to remove any ethanol residue. I also used the same wire to remove residue from the hole that the screw fits into. I live in Los Angeles and have problems with gasoline with ethanol. The gas evaporates and leaves a residue and you cannot run the motor. I now use a product called Ethanol Shield and it works great in small gasoline engines and in cars with carburetors. I have cleaned many carburetors that had ethanol residue and recommend fuel preservatives.
Thank you CTSCAPER, your video was extremely helpful. I probably couldn't have done it without your video. Thanks for taking the time!
Glad the video helped Tony. It feels good when it works.
Six thumbs up 👍Really, your grandpa would be proud of you! Donyboy’s videos encourage me to clean my on ride mower’s carburetor tomorrow when all the parts are here. We see: it is just a question that you dare to do things on your own and try it. Made from men for men, men should understand it, is my motto 🤓👍 Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪
Thank you for showing, i think its really cool how you thought of your Grandfather, i also never met my Grandfather, he passed when my Dad was only 11 yrs old.
The air adjustment screw can be installed on most, if you take that cap off and order the kit to install, not all can be done this way, like you were told, most of these small engines were designed to use for 3 yrs and then trash, if the Engineering don't do it, the Gas will, its sad where America has gone on any kind of quality control or pride in what we make, its all about the Greed!!!
Thanks Again and God bless my Brother.
your right about the fuel issue ,with my idle rigs I keep them running on small marine fuel containers with eth free generally
Just wanted to thank you for the video! Got a Sears power washer for free and it has the exact same engine! Never took a small engine apart before. Followed your video and it started right up! So for the $14 gasket kit and a little time, I have a $250 power washer thanks to you!
Exact same job i have done on MTD leaf vac.Replaced diaphram,cleaned carb and replaced tank gasket.Started first time.Nice video,it just takes patience.
I agree. I've been intimidated by briggs carbs all my life and with some patience I realize it can be done.
I find that I can reach the manifold bolts easier if I take the front shield off. This may also help with the governor connections as well.
...John, I'm a little late to the party, but really enjoyed the video.....being a DIY guy, you have given me the confidence to try this
myself on an old log splitter I inherited from my dad that has a 5 hp B&S...very similar....gonna give it a go... :)
You can do it Ken. Be patient and enjoy the ride.
Hello, I would suggest to anyone attempting a first time rebuild to always take pictures before taking apart. Linkages especially and positions as to what goes where. This way it can be used as a reference for the reassembly and will avoid frustration.
Bread tie wires help hold the linkages un place very well
I have this exact carb and tank setup on a tiller. Last time I ran it was maybe 8 yrs ago. Went to use it and you guessed it... wouldn't run. Drained gas and checked the diaphragm which seems to be ok. Put gas in and proceeded to try and start it... nothing! My son then observed the gas leaking out of the bottom of the tank. Disassembled everything and drained gas... let dry, removed the foam and soldered an obvious hole, coated tank interior with Red Coat sealer. While waiting several days to thoroughly dry, I checked the spark... had none. Replaced coil pickup and pull rope and spark plug. Sparks just fine now. Reassembled and put gas in. Pulled my arm out of joint... no start. Will run when spraying starter fluid into carb just fine. So that's where I'm at... it's not sucking gas into the carb from the tank. Figure I will take the carb back off and do a thorough cleaning this time and let soak in a cleaning bath. Usually I can get a small engine repaired and running in an hour or so... this one is starting to get to me...
Excellent Video! Thank you for making it! My 1992 5HP MTD chipper/shredder has virtually the same carb. There should also be a foam filter inside the cover that requires washing and re-oiling. Before disassembly, download the exploded parts diagrams for the engine from part supplier websites. They are a big help during reassembly.
thanks for this video. i just rebuilt the carb on my friend's log splitter in exchange for the use of said splitter for a couple of weeks. your video helped out a great deal. goodbye pile of logs, hello firewood! 😊
Now that's a great exchange! Unfortunately if you did the job right it's going to be good for a while.
Good job! I just did this yesterday on my for horse tiller. Only thing I could see that I did differently was to remove the fuel tank from the carburetor and the engine first! This allow me to access the bottom screw holding the carb to the engine easily. Made reassembly much easier!
I was wondering if all of this clearing/cleaning could have been done by only removing the fuel tank, and the fuel pimp area and that floppy gasket. All of the problems were in the fuel intake area.
@@rennethjarrett4580
Don't remember, that was two years ago... Sorry!
Thank you, this is exactly what I needed to see, one linkage rod that I missed, did not see it on any other videos.
This video was excellent. I have the same exact carb on my rototiller.
This was a great help to me and provided a few tips I needed for why the one I am working on still won't start. Thanks!
+Land Designs Unlimited LLC cleaning that little hole that rests in the bowl was the ticket. while I had it apart for the fourth time I did some extra cleaning too. thanks again!
Thanks for posting this video. It was extremely helpful in my rebuild to the exact same carb. You attention to detail was very helpful.
Glad to see someone else utilizing a shop vac.
Excellent video- could you add the part numbers for the gaskets you utilized? Well done. Thank you!
Outstanding Video...gave me confidence to do the job myself rather than paying someone to do it! Had not realized that leaving gas with ethanol in the tank over the winter/extended time causes gunk to buildup in the tank. Also, learned there are places that sell non-ethanol gas to prevent this from happening. I watched this video as I have a tiller with the same fuel tank/carb. that needs rebuilt. The only thing I was unable to see is where the spring goes on the backside lower section of the tank. When I pulled my tank off, this spring was dangling. So if anyone has a good pic of where to connect this spring, that'd be great.
Loop
Thank you for the presentation and attitude as much as for the rebuild. A very pleasant watch. Now comes the hard part. I'll attempt an old rototiller carb rebuild myself. I can turn a wrench but it's all those little parts going back where they belong that are the challenge. Aloha.
I just picked up a Craftsman chipper with the same engine. Had water in the oil, gas tank and carb. The piston was seized and also the chipper blades. Hit it with WD40 and the engine freed up. Only issue is it will only run when feeding fuel through the carb?? Still impressive.
john hebberd I put in a new diaphragm, cleaned out the carb and it now runs excellent. Might sharpen the blades next.
Very informative video. As good as it gets.
Now why did you remove the gas tank also and not just the carb on its own. Is there no floating bowl in this type of carburetor . I am going to clean my carb on a 50 year old Briggs and Stratton Garden Tiller and the carburetor looks similar to yours.
I think I have the exact same engine on a power washer. This is really gonna help!
If you have patience and a little mechanical skill you can do it.
Great job & fantastic video! Very clear and great camera work, I just picked up one of these and the carburetor needs rebuilt. Again thanks for filming it then posted it.
Dude at the parts store lied to you if he told you that you only need one gasket! Always replace the carb to tank gasket. Also, word of advice: always run a wire through the venturi passage (the tiny hole you referred to). I did the same as you did twice, before watching a video about cleaning this passage with a wire. After I did this, it ran on the second pull. My carb has a spring on that screw, not sure if yours should have.
Some models have springs, others don't. They're engineered that way.
"Apparently, carb and choke cleaner eats through gloves."
I chuckled when you said that, because I recently had the same realization in the same manner.
You have a nice camera, the video is very clear. That yellow formations are called varnish, the old gasoline built it.
Nice work! That thing idles down real nice. Thanks for sharing!
Awesome video, great detail! Worked on a yard machine tiller 3.5 hp...thanks for saving me about $100
Interesting about your grandfather, My grandfather was named Johnny white as well. He owned an Oldsmobile dealership in Kellogg, Idaho and later in Colville, Wa. And... He died just before I was born, as well.
That is odd. I miss my Johnny.
thats nice, Ive got a couple of my grandfathers tools too. he died before I was born as well.
My other grandad played the fiddle. he played for me once when I was 6 but his wife told him to stop. then we moved a long way away, i never saw him again before he died.
cest la vie.
20:57 Good video! Thank you!
How did you know which side of the gasket to place down on the carburetor or does it matter?
There's a short little stud sticking out of the carb near one of the holes for a cover screw. There is a hole in the diaphragm that goes over the stud. If you put the diaphragm on over the stud and the other holes don't line up, then remove it and flip it over and place it over the stud. Then all the holes will align.
great video mate, gonna do mine when i get the parts.
Hi John, really enjoyed your video, you got that motor running beautifully great work!
I have same carb on my log splitter, can you furnish the carb part #, so I can preorder gaskets.
Went through this last weekend and almost said what you did word for word haha! I got the go kart running, but something about the small "governor spring" isnt right and after starting first pulls a dozen times, it doesnt want to start now and I am needing to connect the throttle cable also. I had Never worked on any small carbed motors.
Those bolts hard to get to can be converted to allen head and accessed more easily with and extended T Handle.
Thanks so much for this!
Great tribute to your grandfather.
Thank you John.
The sponge-like material in the tank is to keep the gas from splashing around, I assume. Mine pretty much disintegrated. Is there a problem with running a tiller without it?
Great job on the carb. Hopefully you cleaned the tank most of them are a rusty nasty mess.
This is EXACTLY the info I needed. Thank you.
Same here. Studied the video and was able to help my friend correct he surging carburetor on his rototiller. PERFECT!
Did you replace the gasket without removing the carburetor before you decided to remove & clean it for this video?
Yahoo!!! It cranked half way through the first pull. Awesome. Thank You.
I was wondering if all of this clearing/cleaning could have been done by only removing the fuel tank, and the fuel pimp area and that floppy gasket. All of the problems were in the fuel intake area.
Really good video very helpful to see what needs took apart before I remove mine. Thanks for the help
The screw at 17:00 is a needle valve screw that controls idle speed. It is adjustable and is supposed to have a pointed tip and a spring to prevent movement. Looks like someone just ground the tip flat and screwed it in all the way.
The needle shown is the correct needle for that location on this specific carb. It's the "Jet Pilot" screw, not the "valve-idle" as per the parts diagram. If anyone is looking for a parts diagram just Goggle "1134 e1" and select the diagram for Carburetor Group.
@@cbpunk You are correct.
At first, I couldn't figure out why my screw looked like the one in this video and it had no spring around it. All other videos I watched had needle valves with springs.
It wasn't until I saw the parts diagram for my specific carburetor model number that I realized that some carbs have needle valves and others don't.
I hope you get to meet your grandfather in heaven. I miss mine and can't wait to see them again.
Does that chipper/shredder mulch up leafs well? Or it's it just a wood chipper.
Thanks
Great job
FYI, it’s not really a gasket, but a combination diaphragm-check valve!
Great great video I think we have another Johnny white.. keep up the good work..and if u work on other people's stuff fix it like it's yours .. he would be proud 👍🙏
Thanks Charlie.
Singing Charlie 🍐😭🥙🥙🥙🥙🔴🔴🔴🔴🇰🇪🇰🇪🇰🇪🇰🇪🇰🇪🍐🇰🇪🍐🇰🇪🍐🇰🇪🇰🇪🇰🇪🇰🇪🇰🇪🔴🔴🔴🔴🔴🔴🔴🔴🔴🍎🔴🔴🔴🔴🔴🔴😭😭
Thanks for the vid, it helped me fix my edger!!!
Thanks have one just like the one you work one was afraid to do it buy watching your video change my mind going to tackle it.
Do you have part number for gasket?
good job. thanks.
Hi, nice video !So I have the same motor on a rear tine tiller. Bought the same part you showed here and disassembled everything and cleaned up and it seems it only wants to start now when the tiller has been sitting for awhile. If i turn it off and try again it won't. The only way to get it going is to take off the airbox and it starts up.Also when the tiller is under load in dirt it sounds great but with tines above soil or sitting still running it sounds just like yours did before you repaired it.....any ideas ? thanks.
sounds like a dirty air filter for one. if you mean it surges when it runs unloaded, I believe that is just the governor keeping the engine from running full speed unloaded.
Nice job on the video. So far, the only one I've found on this carburetor.
BUT, you kinda lost me when you said "spritz" carb cleaner. Maybe it's an east coast term but sounded more like a hairspray term. 😊
What does the tube do?
Very Nice 💥🛠
Where did you find the gasket kit and what part number is it. I find some online but i'm not sure if they'll fit. I would like to find it locally but i can't seam to find anything.
where did you find parts for this carb??
Great job! Excellent quality video! Is that a GoPro 4?
Just a reminder to always stabilize your fuel.A product like SeaFoam works great for cleaning up varnish and carbon as well as stabilizing fuel
Play brand new carburetor only cost about $20-$25. I put one on mine and it started up & ran like brand new on the second pull
What kinda of air filter is it
Great video, only suggestion would be NOT to spray carb choke cleaner right on the intake valve stem. That flushes all the lubricant off the valve stem and does not lead to anything good.
Please help,i want this carburetor!! Where i Found;;;;;;;;;;
Ethanol in the gasoline is the culprit. It destroys anything rubber, and absorbs moisture from the air, so over time gunk and rust accumulates in carb's and small engines. The best defense is to buy and use only Premium fuel with no ethanol content. Here would be Esso or Shell for instance. Next is to keep the engines covered when parked outside.
I have the exact same fuel tank and carb and had to do the same rebuild. Unfortunately I had to trash the fuel tank and buy a new one because the fuel tank was so badly rusted.
Where did you find the tank? I just did the same but thought I found the last one in the world!
@@jameswarner5224 I purchased a tank off of Amazon. It was a B&S tank but not the correct one. So I remembered the Marines idea of Adapt, Improvise and Overcome. And I made the tank work.
I have this engine too and bought it Used for 30€ and the only thing it had , was the Caen gasket flap. It was so broken
very good video thanks for sharing !
What is the no of carb as my old wolsey has a wrong carburetor fitted need a carburetor and linkage
Given to me by a 89 old timer, great to rember grandfather
Thanks so much for your video. It helped me alot! You are a good dude.
Good job thanks ctscraper ,job well done !!
ive got an old briggs engine that has no cover, so i have no idea how to figure out what year it is or what parts to buy
what calls the very nice piano music at the begining of the video?
Don`t worry. He`s right there with you.
Does it have a part # on the carb? I'm having the same problem with a mid 90's tiller.
Should be a model number and type number your parts store will be able to tell you
@@JamesWhite-tg4kw Thanks.
How do you replace jet it comes in rebuild kit but couldn't figure out I bought a 6.5 predator engine for$100 brand new best $100 I ever spent harbor freight Honda repop started first pull right out of box just added gas and oil
good job bro 👍🏼 thanks for sharing
In addition to the video in all your small engines (lawnmower, atv,wood splitter, all small engines) USE ONLY HIGH TEST GASOLINE I REPEAT ONLY HIGH TEST GASOLINE AS IT HAS NO ETHANOL) your engines will always run much better.
It's easier if you just remove the gas tank and then you can use a long screwdriver to remove bottom carb bolt.
i have seen ppl run a surging motor with 50/50 mix of gas and seafoam to clean out the carb.
hmm after the disassembly and cleaning. maybe get some of that fuel injector carb cleaner that you put in the gas tank of your car?? don't have to go crazy with the stuff, just enough to keep it clean.
The link for the parts doesn't work. Where can I buy the diaphragm gasket?
what ever happened to that screw which was supposed to be 1 1/2 turns out? if I missed it could you give me a timestamp?
That screw is called a needle valve. This particular model doesn't have a needle valve.
I put petrolatum grease on diaphragms.