I realize this video is 3-1/2 years old, but I just ran across it and have to let you know I truly appreciate your no-nonsense approach to teaching. I am now a fan and subscriber, and look forward to watching/learning more. Thanks for taking the time to share.
Exactly what I was looking for I just bought this mower no running and I knew it had carb issues but never had I taken a mower apart before and was a bit nervous but after watching your video I just went at it and got it running again thanks you gained a subscriber
This is an excellent video! I have the 22HP B&S V-twin on a Craftsman YT3000 with 69 hours on it that was surging and then would only run on full choke. I used this video to learn how to pull the carb so I could clean it out. Gaskets and rings were all pristine, and I used the wire tool to clean all the orifices out (along with carb cleaner!). After a few mistakes (I unknowingly put the carb back together without the rubber o-ring that sits inside the bottom of the bowl which caused it to run fuel rich) I correctly put everything back together and the engine runs just like the day I bought it! Thank you again for an excellent, detailed video!
Excellent work!.. Thanks for the great feedback. If it happens again, I did a video more recently on surging with a similar engine. I show in detail the part that I cleaned
Thank you for posting this video. It was very helpful. Removed a carburetor from a mower that hadn't been started for over 3 years, and replaced it. Solenoid was frozen, and new one cost $140+ but a whole new carburetor including the solenoid was only $35. Followed your video and everything worked great and mower started right up! Good job! Thanks!
@@razorbak6783 I can't say where Greg got his, but I know Amazon and eBay has a lot of carburetors in this price range. Not sure about this particular one, but if you had a part number, it's certainly easy to find out.
Thank you very much for the effort on this video. I was having quite an enigma on my 24hp V-Twin... one cyl running fine the other having spark, 150 psi compression, adjusted vales, buit still putting out only about 10% output on that cyl. Turned out to be the carb effecting only the right cyl. Thanks again. You showed us what to look for and how to do it. Best to you.
This is a great tutorial. While I elected to buy an aftermarket carb on Amazon vs clean, it was great for helping me get through in replacement process on my Briggs 24hp. Thanks Rudy! 5 stars.
Its not the carb its the float needle has rubber on the tip and it sticks to the seat find stainless steel needle and no more ethanol fuel problems . Mine did this from day 1. To start i use a horse syringe with electrical tape on it in the fuel line going to carb force small bit of air in and you will feel it pop and good to go. And it is ez to get fuel line off fuel pump its not ez to take carb off every time. P.s my carb from the factory had a main jet missing i found it in the float seat location some dumb ass put it in the (wrong) hole it jammed the float i dont know how it ran at all but i know there is ring and cylinder damage from lean fuel mix. hope u have better luck
Thanks so much for sharing! Watched the whole video and went out to my mower just unscrewed the fuel solenoid and lo and behold it was jammed! Pushed it in and out a few times,let the fuel drain put it back on and running great! Going to mow our lawn today thanks again!
Great video. It had all the info needed to do a simple clean with carburetor cleaner. One day it just refused to start. No gas in the bowl. Couldn't see any issues, but after cleaning it started right up.
Excellent Video and please keep up with the detail and with closeups. Your video helped me see I put a linkage together wrong. On the bottom throttle linkage there are two holes if you look closely. One has a plastic collar and the other is there for no good reason. I wasn't paying attention and stuck it in the wrong place. Caused engine to run bad, and a big back fire on shut down. I went back and forth on your video to check when I did wrong. Very helpful! Before i found the issue, I checked bad gas, plugs, fuel pump, diodes on armature, and feeler gauge on rockers. Assuming the whole time it wasn't the new Carburetor. Shooo....
@@JLPicard440 you are certainly welcome. I have the exact same carb and I have the surging issue. I got the carb off and tore it apart. Just waiting for tomorrow for the rebuild kits.
@@conrat2000 I did a video fairly recently on this issue. Make sure to clean out these tiny little low side jets that are there.. ruclips.net/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/видео.html
@@JLPicard440 so, I finished rebuilding it. It starts when choking it. But then it dies fairly quickly. It tries to run, but almost like it runs out of gas. I checked and the fuel pump is pushing fuel. Possibly the fuel pump is weak? Can you think of anything I could've screwed up rebuilding it that would cause it to stall like it's running out of gas?
So, I'm an idiot. Lol. I forgot to attach the needle valve to the float. Took it apart, corrected the problem, and it runs like brand new. Thank you sooooooo much. I got a free (well, maybe $30) new mower. It runs freaking great!!!
This is a good video. First time watching this channel. I hit subscribe because i appreciate the straightforward no bs guide.Great commentary. Ill see what this guy has to say on my next home repair type task.
Thanks. I have a 25hp Briggs that has needed this for 5 years. I ran it on vapor for about 15 minutes awhile back until the gas can got so cold it stopped making vapors.
@@JLPicard440 Watch some videos about "running a lawnmower on vapors". It works but it's dangerios the way they are doing it. It could be refined with a backfire arrestor (Can't spell that) and a tank heater.
Thank you sir! Great video! I had to watch this about 20 times, but I got it. One improvement I would suggest is slowing down the video where you re install the butterfly/choke rod thingy. I got it wrong and had the spring holding the butterfly closed tight. When I rewatched you taking it out, I noticed the butterfly easily moved open and closed. But overall, you saved me the hassle and cost of going to a mechanic. Thanks again!
Good video, I've had to rebuild mine before..a couple of times. But mine has an auto choke system. It's been a Pain in the A$$ with not reliably starting it. I have ordered the bell lever bracket to change to a separate choke. And a new carb with the manual butterfly setup. I was able to review what you had with what I'll be changing over to. Thanks again
Awesome video brother. Very informative. I only ordered gasket kit 54832 as my outer gaskets were fine. After priming started up on first twist of the key.
Nice vid. I'm currently working on a nearly identical carb. But that "solenoid" (SAHlenoid, not SILenoid) is an anti-backfire fuel cutoff so it doesn't explode your muffler like a cartoon cigar.
My Ariens 20hp v-twin is so cold blooded and difficult to start so I purchased a Card kit with fuel pump, and she still doesn't start. Plenty of spark and compression. When I give it a tiny shot of either, she pops right off. So, I am thinking I either have a vacuum leak and air leak in the fuel line. So that will be my project after church today.
Video is on point brother....thank you so much....I picked up one of these mowers today from my step dad and it's been sitting for 2 years so I'm sure the carb needs to be cleaned due to the crappy ethanol. I checked it for spark and it's good, so I'm sure the carb needs to be flushed/cleaned/poked etc.....had to sub because of the video being on point ;-)
Thank you so much! Yes after 2 years it's probably pretty goopy.. When you get it going again try using the ethanol free fuel if you have a local gas station that sells it. It does keep a little better than the regular E10..
you must try Mopar penetrating fluid for cleaning carbs , its life changing , carb cleaner is weak junk , soak jets etc.....in a cap full enough to cover em , spray it into carb everywhere , spay it Ito float bowl and let it sit for a while or overnight , clean everything out with brake cleaner and reassemble , stuff will blow yer mind , do a lot of carbs and don't use carb cleaner anymore ,ultrasonic cleaners don't even beat it
I have an issue with mine. It idles and starts up fine. Ajusted valves to 4thousands, change both spark plug, new fuel filter. Both main jet were found in the carburator bowl. After doing all that i mentioned above, spraying carb cleaner in every port. The tractor is running the same way that it always fan. It pops and bangs thru the exhaust constantly. When throtteling down fast, it lets out a huge bang. Its not sputtering, its running quite well but it constantly pops no matter what. It did it before all the work that ive done and it still does it now.
No i do not but i already thought about that possibility. Infact i am going to pick up a new coil tommorow. Its been a real head scratcher. I don't understand how it was able to run "good" with both main jets missing? After doing a valve ajustement, carburator clean and new spark plug. Popping sound seems to be less frequent at lower rpms. It stills backfires/pops sometimes. Symptoms now are loss of power under load. When engaging the mower deck it will fall on its face. Still running somewhat decent, no surging but sputtering. When its not under any load it will not sputter but it will let out backfires and they come from the exhaust. Symptoms do not change when the engine is hot or cold. I did not clean the carb in dept as you did, i did not open the port on top where the fuel line connects. But i sprayed air and carb cleaner in every hole about 3/4 times. I took fuel out of the tank and let it sat for water. There was not a single drop of dirt or water in my masson jar. I added a fuel treatment just to make sure. What would be your best bet? Ps the tractor has only 125 hours and was always really well maintained. Kept indoors 365 days a year.
@@ryy597 No problem on what you were writing.. BTW you never said if you put the jets back? How could they fall out? The bowl holds them in. Check those tiny rubber 0-rings on the jets, I can't see how they could have fallen out...
@@JLPicard440 sorry, yes i did order 2 new jets. There is a left one and a right one. I made sure that i placed them both in the right spot. The o-rings on the old one failed and caused them to fell into the carburator bowl.
I’ve got a 24 horse Briggs intel engine that is spitting gas out of the exhaust. So I’ll be doing what you just did and see if the float bowl is stuck ? Or something else !? Great video thanks
I've never had one do that! Could be the needle and seat not sealing and it's just dumping gas into the engine (yes could be the float, but probably not unless it's cracked and is full of gas)... have you checked the oil to make sure it's not contaminated with fuel?
I am working on a John Deere with the Briggs 22 V twin, it has some carburetor problems, I checked the electric shut off valve, it works, checked power at the connector it has power. I started it by pouring some gas down the air opening it fires right up but dies right after it runs out of gas, I am using a hand vacuum pump and the fuel pump works. It's not pulling the fuel from the fuel bowl. I had carburetor cleaner going through all the little holes. At a loss as to why it won't keep running. I didn't take it apart like you did so maybe I need to do so. Thank you for your video, it's a big help
HI, I usually will disconnect the fuel line where it goes into the carburetor and point the fuel line into a jar or something.. Then crank the engine to see if it's working. Your vacuum pump could be generating more vacuum than the engine is so it could be a false reading that the fuel pump is working. If it is working, then yea, you'll probably have to take the carb off and go through it and look for any nook and cranny, little holes, etc that could be clogged..
@@JLPicard440 Sir, thank you for your reply, I appreciate it. I will try taking it completely apart, I was concerned about ruining a gasket, I found a rebuild kit for $8 on line, so if I need any gaskets, I know I can find them. This has been sitting for about 4 years the original complaint is the battery goes dead before they get their yard cut. I figure maybe the alternator, voltage regulator, or a broken wire somewhere. I have to get it running before I worry about that. Again Sir , thank you for your response. Have a wonderful day 😊
@@JLPicard440 I got the machine running, it had a problem with the fuel inlet, know it sounds stupid, but I drilled out the small jet at the needle valve by about 1 thousands of an inch. I couldn't blow through the tube where the fuel line connects. I could blow through with air, both ways. Finally I could blow through with mouth air. I knew something was wrong because when I took the fuel bowl off there wasn't any fuel in it. I also ordered a new fuel pump. I think you are correct about my hand pump making much more vacuum. The new one is just in case the original doesn't work. What I did was put some gas in a small container and hooked up the fuel pump, it worked and I kept the engine running by using the hand pump. The engine runs good, after I get the fuel system working I can work on checking the alternator/Voltage regulator. Sir thank you for your help. It's much appreciated.
Ok cool... Battery dies before the lawn is cut? That's strange... The engine has a magneto and doesn't rely on the battery to keep it running once it's started. Maybe they would shut it off to go do something and then came back and it was dead. Maybe the battery was just bad already and wouldn't keep the charge? That's something I'd have to see. I'd be curious what you find out on that one!
@@JLPicard440 It has an electric PTO for the blades, and it stops cutting the grass. That's the main problem. That's why I think it's either the alternator, or voltage regulator. The owner replaced the battery and it did the same thing with the new battery. Those electric PTO's draw a lot of amps when they first engage, but after they lock up, it doesn't need as much. Still it is a drain on the battery. I hope you can understand, I may not be very clear in my description of the problems. I appreciate your help.
Fantastic video, thanks for sharing. You did a great job showing how the linkage connects to the carb... My problem is the other ends of the linkage (yes I didn't pay close attention to where they came from) Can you send me a picture?
There might be. Ive never put it back and never had any problem with the bolts coming loose... You can use the blue loctite and it'll come off easier next time.. 😀
Very good video. I tried following along and put mine back together. It's stuck at full throttle whether I move the lever up or down. The linkages looks the same to me. Only thing I can think of I didn't see in yours is maybe little metal gaskets in between the carburetor and manifold gasket. They have 2 beveled lips on them. I'm not sure which way they go. I didn't notice it on yours. I had read somewhere that they have to be turned a certain way or throttle will be stuck. I wish I could see information about them. I feel like there's metal gaskets in each side of the carburetor, but can't recall.
Oh wow.. Yea without seeing it it's really hard to say. Those gaskets have holes in them that will line up with holes in the carburetor, so it should be really easy to see which way they go. Unfortunately you will have to take it apart again to determine if they're backwards or not. Are you sure the throttle linkage is on correct?
I know this is old hopefully I get an answer so if I spray carb cleaner in spark plugs or air filter it should bypass carb. And start temporarily is that correct??
I usually spray right in the intake of the carburetor... You can spray into the spark plugs, but it seems like more work to remove the plugs! I usually don't use carb cleaner, I usually try to use starting fluid or a small amount of gas (harder to spray)..
I love the way you explain things but I have a question I have a Briggs and Stratton lawn mower it's a V6400 craftsman 0 turn on the carburetor it has a spring The mower is about 3 years old for some reason we're not putting the linkage back correctly is there something we're not doing like tightening or it won't go up and down as needed
Hi! Without being able to see it, I can't tell what could be wrong. Do you have FB? You should be able to upload a picture there and I can try to see if I see anything wrong. It's on the take a bath productions FB page...
I'm working on the same engine. Got carb off and can see where it's been leaking and blackened the orange rings on one side each. It only has 155 hours. Symptoms. Runs perfectly until the engine warms up/ gets hot. Then it loses power and dies. I can start it again but only on choke. Cools down.. and it's fine. I think the orange gaskets leaking is my problem. Thermal expansion is making the bolts expand just enough to let it leak. I'm going to use some blue permatex and put it back on then tighten the bolts good. They have red thread locker on them so I'll add more of that. Think it'll work?
It's possible. I'd say it's a good place to start. When you take out those orange O-rings, do they feel hard or brittle? Or soft like they should be? Try to loosen the gas tank cap and see if it's not venting properly. Also make sure the fuel line isn't kinked anywhere or clogged with trash. Just some other things you might try..
you can mark it with a sharpie then you can't make any mistake.. Just make sure not to get any cleaners or chemicals on the mark or it'll come right off! Or etch it with a screwdriver, then that solves that too..
Great video!! Thank you!! When I pulled it apart the 2 jets in the intake tube were in the bottom of the bowl. The O ring (which appears to try to keep the jets in place) stayed in the bowl which caused the jets to fall out. When I replaced the jets and the O Ring, the jets fall down to the O Ring. They do not fit tight into the intake tube holes. Is this normal?
@@JLPicard440 I found new viton o rings on ebay and they should be here this week. New jets (genuine) are expensive! O rings are not. Thank you for the info!
A great video! Liked and subscribed. I can't get past opening the float bowl as I can't get the two bowl bolts out. I saw someone use a butane mini-torch successfully but I'm leery about doing that around possible residual gas. Might you have any suggestions for getting those loose? Also, I've read that flooding is often caused by a stuck float. If that's the case, will you find it stuck when you open the bowl? Thanks.
HI! I absolutely don't recommend using a torch around a carburetor! I wouldn't do it myself. I would maybe try some PB Blaster and let it soak for a while.. Try to get it in around the threads. I've never had bolts that wouldn't come out, but they're out there... Maybe a pencil torch if the PB Blaster doesn't work, but I'd still be really cautious about doing that... any residual gas and you'll have a good fire to cook marshmallows on...
I bought a replacement carburetor for my Briggs and Stratton V-Twin and noticed that they provided gaskets (2 identical) for the bowl, but my original carb (and yours by the look of it) doesn't use a gasket. Is it recommended to use one? Edit: I just realized they are gaskets for the manifold, nevermind!
I'm great video brother thank you for your knowledge and expertise I am new to the V twin engines I took one off my Tractor and turned her into a boat motor but I do not know how to lower the idle I cannot change years from forward to reverse with the engine running there's too much torque on the transmission how do I lower the RP m's Great you I am a new subscriberTo Sue the rest of you video
There's usually a idle screw. I don't know if the particular one your working on has it or not. You might be able to bend the lever that the throttle spring is hooked to to lower the RPM's.. It's only going to idle but so low before it tries to die on you.
@@JLPicard440 thank you 4oo to500 rpm. I am computer stupid I'm trying to put delete to my video in this message in this not working very well title of Video is 22 horsepower V twin bridge and Stratton Outboard motor DETROITREDNECK is my RUclips channel name I will try to post a video
Great Video - this will be my weekend project - pulled out the mower and it wont start - couple of big backfires thats it.. plugs look good so figured it is the carb. question tho - i noticed on mine that there are small slits in the vacuum hose off the bottom port of the fuel pump - are these factory or does the hose need to be replaced - and could it be my issue? Thanks for posting this!
I have a older model Briggs Intek 22 Hp and it started missing out no where on the 1 cylinder so ive put new spark plugs in , new diaphragm fuel pump , adjusted valves , cleaned carb and still same exact issue , i must have missed something , if i choke it that 2nd cylinder runs but choke off that cylinder backfires out exhaust so i must of missed the Low idle part of carb.
@@JLPicard440 Thats 1 tool I don't have , however I should get one but on these with a compression release , it's hard to check compression others say.
@@BlettzaHrekleW It shouldn't be very hard. If you have a harbor freight nearby they should have one, if not Amazon will have it pretty cheap... It's worth checking so you can at least eliminate that as a possibility if it checks out ok.
I have a 2008 Husqvarna ride on with one of these engines, and the fuel filter is covered in gas after running the mower. Does that require an entire rebuild? I have to mow once a week with no replacement mower, so I think I have to take my carb to someone to rebuild. I want to make sure that sounds like a likely solution to the issue before throwing money at the problem. Thank you for the awesome video by the way!!
HI, you must mean the air filter! It sounds like possibly the needle and seat not cutting off properly.. Does it sound like the choke is releasing all the way?
@@JLPicard440 Yes, I meant the air filter. It does sound like the engine is cutting out after a while, especially if I have the blades going; almost like it's too rich. After mowing for 30 minutes the engine starts to stall unless I turn the blades off and ease up on the gas for a minute or two
I can’t figure out what exactly is wrong with my grasshopper with this engine. It won’t start unless u use starter fluid and then it runs great, I replaced the vacuum pump and the little vacuum hose that goes to the head cover but it still won’t start on it’s own. Is there another vacuum line I’m missing?
Help, Drained fuel and replaced with known good fuel. Replaced carburetor, fuel pump, spark plugs, fuel filter and air filter. Engine still turns over but doesn't start. It kicks over and starts with starting fluid but quits when that is burned up. Any ideas?
Maybe the valves out out of adjustment? Sounds like you've done mostly everything possible. If you have a compression gauge, I'd check the compression and see what that looks like. Does it sound normal when it's cranking?
@@JLPicard440 Thanks I checked compression it looks good, gonna check the valve adjustment next, but would compression check good if the valves are out of adjustment?
@@michaelthomason9007 Yea good point... That's a good one. Is the fuel filter filling up with fuel? Are you sure the known good fuel isn't full of water? I know, I'm grasping at straws!... But there's not much left... :-)
Hi, first your videos is awesome. I have a problem, just wandering can you help? My lawn mowers is nit even cranking but my starter is turning. Do you have any idea why? Or any suggestion?
If the starter is cranking but not turning the engine, it could be that there's a broken tooth on the flywheel that the starter is engaging on but can't turn the engine. It could be that the starter gear isn't popping up to engage the flywheel. You'll have to pull the top cover of the engine off so you can see what's going on there and observe the starter when it's being cranked. If the gear isn't popping up to engage the flywheel, it could be gummed up with something keeping it from moving smoothly. This can usually be taken apart and cleaned and relubed, but I can't explain how here in this text. It may also be that the gear on the starter itself is stripped out. there's not much else it could be.
Superb work on the carb. I did mine, but the choke linkage seems to be messed up and not engaging. Is there anything special I need to do to get it aligned again?
@@velodaman Usually you can loosen the screw and move the cable back and fourth. That may not be what's wrong, but I was just throwing it out there. I usually pull the choke control in full choke position and adjust the cable accordingly.. then when you push the choke to the off position, it'll be adjusted. if that makes any sense.
Bonehead alert: I found the issue. On the choke flange where the choke linkage attaches, I had put it in the incorrect hole. Now that its in the correct hole and put back together, it started right up and runs great. Thanks again for the great video and the support.
@@velodaman That's awesome! Yea without seeing it, its difficult to say. They say a picture is worth 1000 words... being there in person to see must be worth much more! You're welcome, I'm glad you got it going...
I have a very similar Briggs and Stratton 26hp. It has a new carb, but it's having trouble with surging. The throttle lever is not as responsive (but connected) as I'd like it to be. It usually sputters out at the lowest idle throttle. Any tips would be really appreciated. Thanks.
HI, I did a video on this a while back. Give this a try and see if there's any luck. Even with a new carb. Is there any chance the gas is contaminated with anything? Did you drain it and replace fuel lines and filter too? ruclips.net/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/видео.html
I usually just put gas in the plug and it will start working, but those engine are so bad to cold start. Spring startup is a frustrating activity. If you can avoid buying a tractor with the V Twin do it.
If you have a local gas station with ethanol free gas that's what I have been using and I am not having any trouble. I have actually had good luck with the V-Twin engine. If you don't have ethanol free gas available, u have to either completely drain the fuel system, including the carburetor bowl, or keep the tank completely full so there's no room for moisture and use plenty of gas stabil in the tank and run it so it circulates thru the carburetor. The ethanol attracts moisture and causes all sorts of trouble over the winter.
If you get the model number off your engine. It's usually on the valve cover on a briggs engine... you can go to a website like www.partstree.com and get the parts breakdown for it... from there, you should be able to identify the spring and get the part number... Hope that helps.
HI!... You can test the fuel pump by disconnecting the output side that goes to the carburetor and holding the hose in a jar while cranking the engine over. However, from the symptom you described I doubt it's the fuel pump. Sounds like some blockage in the carburetor...
@@JLPicard440 the fuel filter never really fills up, it just has a little amount of gas in it. I'm going to check it out today. I'd much rather change the fuel pump than take all that mess off.
@@inscoredbz ☹... I'm working on a bear right now myself.. Got one that's got a popping/ miss in the exhaust. I was thinking the coil was going bad, but now going to take another look at the carburetor..
Hi, Thank for video. My mower has one problem. Then I try to start engine after 5-7 day, starter work 5-10secont, and after engine start to run? I make a test: then engine start, I quick stop engine, and again try to start - no problem (engine quickly to start). Before then I try to start after long time first time engine check fuel level in tank and fuel in fuel filter, it was OK. Maybe the fuel evaporates from carburetor?
Are you saying the engine starts and then won't stay running? I couldn't understand the question very well. IF it won't stay running, has it been sitting for a long time? Could be water in fuel? Is carburetor dirty? Trash in fuel tank? How about the fuel cap? Try to run without fuel cap in place to see if the fuel cap is causing a vapor lock..
@@JLPicard440 IF it won't stay running, has it been sitting for a long time? - YES. The main problem then I start the engine after 5-7 days off work . The starter rotating 5-10second( starter need to rotating several times), after engine start. Water, trach in fuel - NO, Mower running time 55 hours.
@@arasaras-bi3ez If it's been sitting a long time... like a few months, the carburetor is probably getting clogged up. Has it been sitting 5-7 days or a few months? 5-7 days isn't a long time.
Are they those ones with the small heads on them? I seem to remember them being a 4MM 6 sided socket unless I'm thinking of something else.. is there a video time stamp of the ones you mean if I'm remembering wrong?
@@JLPicard440 thanks for the reply. They were actually being heald in place by the gaskets which were stuck to the carb I discovered yesterday. When I scraped away the gaskets they just slid out. Thanks again from Ireland. Without your video I would have been in trouble. 👍
HI, you can loosen the solenoid at the bottom of the carburetor and that'll drain the fuel out. Just remove the wire first and leave it loose so any remaining fuel will evaporate.
That works for the most part, but won't get 100% of the fuel out. Even loosening the solenoid will get the fuel out of the bowl, but some fuel will remain in the solenoid. To get 100% out, remove the solenoid and shake it while pressing the plunger a few times... that should get most of it out. Those things have a habit of rusting and then they don't work to good after that.
I realize this video is 3-1/2 years old, but I just ran across it and have to let you know I truly appreciate your no-nonsense approach to teaching. I am now a fan and subscriber, and look forward to watching/learning more. Thanks for taking the time to share.
You're welcome! Thank your the great feedback and the sub... 😀
❤❤p
LMK p@@JLPicard440
I watched your video.Ordered a new carburetor for $ 42.00, went back and watched it again,and now my mower runs like new again thank you so much !!!
Great job!... I'm glad I could help.. :-)
I just watched this video 2-7-2023 and I have the exact mower. This was very helpful to me. Thank you for such a great video.
You're welcome! Glad the video was helpful.. Maybe you meant 3-7-23.. 😀
The 4mm socket trick was a game changer. Up and running. THANK YOU!
Awesome! Thank U
@@JLPicard440 yeah mine was tight so i used pliers and i ruined it. I didnt think to use a socket
OH NO! Hopefully you can still break them loose..
I used a 3/16
Exactly what I was looking for I just bought this mower no running and I knew it had carb issues but never had I taken a mower apart before and was a bit nervous but after watching your video I just went at it and got it running again thanks you gained a subscriber
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing and thanks for the sub.... 😊
Thanks for the instructional video. Now maybe my old LA 175 will run like a kid again.
Hopefully it will do just that! Your'e welcome... 😊
This is an excellent video! I have the 22HP B&S V-twin on a Craftsman YT3000 with 69 hours on it that was surging and then would only run on full choke. I used this video to learn how to pull the carb so I could clean it out. Gaskets and rings were all pristine, and I used the wire tool to clean all the orifices out (along with carb cleaner!). After a few mistakes (I unknowingly put the carb back together without the rubber o-ring that sits inside the bottom of the bowl which caused it to run fuel rich) I correctly put everything back together and the engine runs just like the day I bought it! Thank you again for an excellent, detailed video!
Excellent work!.. Thanks for the great feedback. If it happens again, I did a video more recently on surging with a similar engine. I show in detail the part that I cleaned
Thank you for posting this video. It was very helpful. Removed a carburetor from a mower that hadn't been started for over 3 years, and replaced it. Solenoid was frozen, and new one cost $140+ but a whole new carburetor including the solenoid was only $35. Followed your video and everything worked great and mower started right up! Good job! Thanks!
Fantastic! I'm glad you were able to get it back on the road!.. 🙂🙂
whole new carb for 35.00....pretty good deal...can you share where you got it?
@@razorbak6783 I can't say where Greg got his, but I know Amazon and eBay has a lot of carburetors in this price range. Not sure about this particular one, but if you had a part number, it's certainly easy to find out.
@@JLPicard440 thank you
Thank you very much for the effort on this video. I was having quite an enigma on my 24hp V-Twin... one cyl running fine the other having spark, 150 psi compression, adjusted vales, buit still putting out only about 10% output on that cyl. Turned out to be the carb effecting only the right cyl. Thanks again. You showed us what to look for and how to do it. Best to you.
Great to hear! Thanks for sharing... :-).
This is a great tutorial. While I elected to buy an aftermarket carb on Amazon vs clean, it was great for helping me get through in replacement process on my Briggs 24hp. Thanks Rudy! 5 stars.
Great to hear! Save the old one in case you have more trouble some day... :-). You're welcome... :-)
Its not the carb its the float needle has rubber on the tip and it sticks to the seat find stainless steel needle and no more ethanol fuel problems . Mine did this from day 1. To start i use a horse syringe with electrical tape on it in the fuel line going to carb force small bit of air in and you will feel it pop and good to go. And it is ez to get fuel line off fuel pump its not ez to take carb off every time. P.s my carb from the factory had a main jet missing i found it in the float seat location some dumb ass put it in the (wrong) hole it jammed the float i dont know how it ran at all but i know there is ring and cylinder damage from lean fuel mix. hope u have better luck
Thanks so much for sharing! Watched the whole video and went out to my mower just unscrewed the fuel solenoid and lo and behold it was jammed! Pushed it in and out a few times,let the fuel drain put it back on and running great! Going to mow our lawn today thanks again!
Excellent! So glad I could help... 😀
Now that’s what I call one of the best videos about this subject. Good work.
Wow, thanks! Awesome... thanks for the great comment..:-)
@@JLPicard440 a
Thank you for making this video. It was very informative. It helped me change my carburetor on my lawn mower. You didn't miss anything .
Excellent! You're welcome... :-)
Great video. It had all the info needed to do a simple clean with carburetor cleaner. One day it just refused to start. No gas in the bowl. Couldn't see any issues, but after cleaning it started right up.
Awesome! Gad you got it going again.. 😀
These Briggs and scrap-iron engines are legendary.
They do seem to last pretty good... 😊
Hey man, your video was AWESOME! Very detailed, informative. Nailed it on my first shot at duplicating what you did. Thank you.
Thank U !
Excellent Video and please keep up with the detail and with closeups. Your video helped me see I put a linkage together wrong. On the bottom throttle linkage there are two holes if you look closely. One has a plastic collar and the other is there for no good reason. I wasn't paying attention and stuck it in the wrong place. Caused engine to run bad, and a big back fire on shut down. I went back and forth on your video to check when I did wrong. Very helpful! Before i found the issue, I checked bad gas, plugs, fuel pump, diodes on armature, and feeler gauge on rockers. Assuming the whole time it wasn't the new Carburetor. Shooo....
Excellent troubleshooting... glad you were able to get it going again.. 😊😊
Great video! Very detailed and informative - After watching this I was able to repair my mower and now it's running great.
Excellent! Glad it was able to help.. :-)
You, sir, are an excellent technical teacher. Extremely great work. Thank you so much.
Wow! Thanks for the great feedback.. 🙂. You're welcome..
@@JLPicard440 you are certainly welcome. I have the exact same carb and I have the surging issue. I got the carb off and tore it apart. Just waiting for tomorrow for the rebuild kits.
@@conrat2000 I did a video fairly recently on this issue. Make sure to clean out these tiny little low side jets that are there..
ruclips.net/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/видео.html
@@JLPicard440 so, I finished rebuilding it. It starts when choking it. But then it dies fairly quickly. It tries to run, but almost like it runs out of gas. I checked and the fuel pump is pushing fuel. Possibly the fuel pump is weak? Can you think of anything I could've screwed up rebuilding it that would cause it to stall like it's running out of gas?
So, I'm an idiot. Lol. I forgot to attach the needle valve to the float. Took it apart, corrected the problem, and it runs like brand new. Thank you sooooooo much. I got a free (well, maybe $30) new mower. It runs freaking great!!!
oh man - I just needed to see how you re-hooked up the linkage and you sped that part up!
OH NO! I didn't speed up the taking apart portion of it.. did it show in that area what you needed to see?
*I re-built my carb and it turned out to be the FUEL PUMP!!!!*
OOOOH! Yes that can happen... 😟
😂😂😂 Feel your pain brother!
@@yogibeer9319 *Now it will not recharge my battery and dies after 45 minutes. Do you have a "power regulator video"??? Thanks for all you do!*
I don't have a charging video. I will possibly make one in the near future. Thanks for the idea!..
This is a good video. First time watching this channel. I hit subscribe because i appreciate the straightforward no bs guide.Great commentary. Ill see what this guy has to say on my next home repair type task.
Awesome! TYSM for the sub... 😊
Thank you, this was very helpful and my mower is running again.
Excellent! You're welcome... :-)
Thanks! My V-Twin is surging at full throttle and I suspect my carb needs cleaning. Great Video.
HI Fred, I recently came out with a video on this very thing.. check it out:
ruclips.net/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/видео.html
I hope it helps :-)
Thanks. I have the same mower. I needed to disassemble the carburetor, because of a surging issue. I now know exactly what to do.
Excellent! You're welcome... :-)
Nice work. I will be able to get through this allot easier now that I’ve seen your doing it. Thanks!
Glad to hear it! You're welcome.. 😀
Very helpful, made it very easy for me to change my carburetor. Very informative! Thanks!
Great to hear! You're welcome... :-)
Thank you so much for the great video!! Solved my problem and my zero turn with same motor runs excellent now! You the man!
You're welcome... ! Glad I was able to help.. 🙂
Thanks. I have a 25hp Briggs that has needed this for 5 years. I ran it on vapor for about 15 minutes awhile back until the gas can got so cold it stopped making vapors.
I've never tried to do it that way... :-)
@@JLPicard440 Watch some videos about "running a lawnmower on vapors". It works but it's dangerios the way they are doing it. It could be refined with a backfire arrestor (Can't spell that) and a tank heater.
@@64Seawind cool, I'll check it out
Thank you sir! Great video! I had to watch this about 20 times, but I got it. One improvement I would suggest is slowing down the video where you re install the butterfly/choke rod thingy. I got it wrong and had the spring holding the butterfly closed tight. When I rewatched you taking it out, I noticed the butterfly easily moved open and closed. But overall, you saved me the hassle and cost of going to a mechanic. Thanks again!
Thats excellent! You're welcome. I'm glad you got it going again..
Thank you. I appreciate your time spent!
You are welcome!
Excellent vid! Thank you!! My Simplicity mower now runs better than it has in years.
Glad to help. You're welcome.. 🙂
Thanks. Good explanation. Going to tackle my husqvarna 22 hp twin today.
You're welcome! So glad to help.. 😊
I have this very same mower and it won't start. I am thinking the Carb is dirty so this is a fantastic video to reference.
Thank you! I hope you can get it back up and running again.. Make sure fuel is good if there's any left in gas tank.. 😊
Good video, I've had to rebuild mine before..a couple of times. But mine has an auto choke system. It's been a Pain in the A$$ with not reliably starting it. I have ordered the bell lever bracket to change to a separate choke. And a new carb with the manual butterfly setup. I was able to review what you had with what I'll be changing over to. Thanks again
Thanks for the great feedback! The auto-choke is a nice system when it works right, but good old manual with cables has stood the test of time... 😊
Excellent video, just what I was looking for.
Thank you... 😀. Glad it was helpful!
Very good video on taking the carb off and apart, thanks for sharing.
You bet.. You're welcome.. 🙂
Awesome video brother. Very informative. I only ordered gasket kit 54832 as my outer gaskets were fine. After priming started up on first twist of the key.
Good stuff! Thanks for the great comment.. 😊😊
Nice vid. I'm currently working on a nearly identical carb.
But that "solenoid" (SAHlenoid, not SILenoid) is an anti-backfire fuel cutoff so it doesn't explode your muffler like a cartoon cigar.
Thanks! Yes thats right... :-)
My Ariens 20hp v-twin is so cold blooded and difficult to start so I purchased a Card kit with fuel pump, and she still doesn't start. Plenty of spark and compression. When I give it a tiny shot of either, she pops right off. So, I am thinking I either have a vacuum leak and air leak in the fuel line. So that will be my project after church today.
Make sure to check and see if the choke is choking all the way... if it's out of adjustment, it'll cause that...
Video is on point brother....thank you so much....I picked up one of these mowers today from my step dad and it's been sitting for 2 years so I'm sure the carb needs to be cleaned due to the crappy ethanol. I checked it for spark and it's good, so I'm sure the carb needs to be flushed/cleaned/poked etc.....had to sub because of the video being on point ;-)
Thank you so much! Yes after 2 years it's probably pretty goopy.. When you get it going again try using the ethanol free fuel if you have a local gas station that sells it. It does keep a little better than the regular E10..
Thank you so much for that video sir.
You are most welcome
Thank you for the video! Very detailed!
You're very welcome! Thanks for the great feedback!
Very informative and explains it down to a T.! Thankx for the vid man.
Glad it was helpful! You're welcome...
Damn!! I figured Tommy Lee paid people to do this kind of work!
Lol... His wallet would be nice.. 😂
Great video . Man , theres quite a bit to that .
Thanks! It's not that bad once you get into it... :-)
nice video showed me every thing I needed to know thanks
Glad to hear it! You're welcome.. 😀
Holy smokes, this was a great video!!!!!! SUBSCRIBED!!!!!
Awesome, thank you!
Glad you made this video helped a lot
Thank you so much!
Fantastic tutorial. You saved me a lot of time!! Thank you!!!
You're welcome! And thank you...😊
Great video, thanks!
You're welcome... :-)
Awesome instructional video! You da man! Thank you sir!
Very welcome and thank you...
Exactly what i was looking for HERO
Awesome! Thank u..
Nice work!
Thanks!
great video. it helped me
Glad it helped!... :-)
Great video!!
TYSM! I really appreciate it..
very good. exactly what I needed.
Thank you so much! Glad I was able to help... 😀
Fantastic VIDEO. Take a BATH.
Thank U!
you must try Mopar penetrating fluid for cleaning carbs , its life changing , carb cleaner is weak junk , soak jets etc.....in a cap full enough to cover em , spray it into carb everywhere , spay it Ito float bowl and let it sit for a while or overnight , clean everything out with brake cleaner and reassemble , stuff will blow yer mind , do a lot of carbs and don't use carb cleaner anymore ,ultrasonic cleaners don't even beat it
Hey thanks for the great info! I'll be sure to check it out... 😀
Hey bud thanks for the video it was without a doubt very helpful
Glad to hear it! You're welcome.. 😊😊
Thanks ! Excellent Video.
You are welcome!
I have an issue with mine. It idles and starts up fine. Ajusted valves to 4thousands, change both spark plug, new fuel filter. Both main jet were found in the carburator bowl. After doing all that i mentioned above, spraying carb cleaner in every port. The tractor is running the same way that it always fan. It pops and bangs thru the exhaust constantly. When throtteling down fast, it lets out a huge bang. Its not sputtering, its running quite well but it constantly pops no matter what. It did it before all the work that ive done and it still does it now.
It could be a magneto.. do you have any of those neon bulb spark checkers?
No i do not but i already thought about that possibility. Infact i am going to pick up a new coil tommorow. Its been a real head scratcher. I don't understand how it was able to run "good" with both main jets missing? After doing a valve ajustement, carburator clean and new spark plug. Popping sound seems to be less frequent at lower rpms. It stills backfires/pops sometimes. Symptoms now are loss of power under load. When engaging the mower deck it will fall on its face. Still running somewhat decent, no surging but sputtering. When its not under any load it will not sputter but it will let out backfires and they come from the exhaust. Symptoms do not change when the engine is hot or cold. I did not clean the carb in dept as you did, i did not open the port on top where the fuel line connects. But i sprayed air and carb cleaner in every hole about 3/4 times. I took fuel out of the tank and let it sat for water. There was not a single drop of dirt or water in my masson jar. I added a fuel treatment just to make sure. What would be your best bet? Ps the tractor has only 125 hours and was always really well maintained. Kept indoors 365 days a year.
Sorry for being all over the place. I was thinking about stuff while writting.
@@ryy597 No problem on what you were writing.. BTW you never said if you put the jets back? How could they fall out? The bowl holds them in. Check those tiny rubber 0-rings on the jets, I can't see how they could have fallen out...
@@JLPicard440 sorry, yes i did order 2 new jets. There is a left one and a right one. I made sure that i placed them both in the right spot. The o-rings on the old one failed and caused them to fell into the carburator bowl.
Good work Rudy
TYSM!
Thank you, this helped me.
Glad to hear it! You're welcome.. 😊
I’ve got a 24 horse Briggs intel engine that is spitting gas out of the exhaust. So I’ll be doing what you just did and see if the float bowl is stuck ? Or something else !? Great video thanks
I've never had one do that! Could be the needle and seat not sealing and it's just dumping gas into the engine (yes could be the float, but probably not unless it's cracked and is full of gas)... have you checked the oil to make sure it's not contaminated with fuel?
I am working on a John Deere with the Briggs 22 V twin, it has some carburetor problems, I checked the electric shut off valve, it works, checked power at the connector it has power. I started it by pouring some gas down the air opening it fires right up but dies right after it runs out of gas, I am using a hand vacuum pump and the fuel pump works. It's not pulling the fuel from the fuel bowl. I had carburetor cleaner going through all the little holes. At a loss as to why it won't keep running. I didn't take it apart like you did so maybe I need to do so.
Thank you for your video, it's a big help
HI, I usually will disconnect the fuel line where it goes into the carburetor and point the fuel line into a jar or something.. Then crank the engine to see if it's working. Your vacuum pump could be generating more vacuum than the engine is so it could be a false reading that the fuel pump is working. If it is working, then yea, you'll probably have to take the carb off and go through it and look for any nook and cranny, little holes, etc that could be clogged..
@@JLPicard440
Sir, thank you for your reply, I appreciate it. I will try taking it completely apart, I was concerned about ruining a gasket, I found a rebuild kit for $8 on line, so if I need any gaskets, I know I can find them. This has been sitting for about 4 years the original complaint is the battery goes dead before they get their yard cut. I figure maybe the alternator, voltage regulator, or a broken wire somewhere. I have to get it running before I worry about that.
Again Sir , thank you for your response. Have a wonderful day 😊
@@JLPicard440
I got the machine running, it had a problem with the fuel inlet, know it sounds stupid, but I drilled out the small jet at the needle valve by about 1 thousands of an inch. I couldn't blow through the tube where the fuel line connects. I could blow through with air, both ways. Finally I could blow through with mouth air. I knew something was wrong because when I took the fuel bowl off there wasn't any fuel in it. I also ordered a new fuel pump. I think you are correct about my hand pump making much more vacuum. The new one is just in case the original doesn't work.
What I did was put some gas in a small container and hooked up the fuel pump, it worked and I kept the engine running by using the hand pump. The engine runs good, after I get the fuel system working I can work on checking the alternator/Voltage regulator.
Sir thank you for your help. It's much appreciated.
Ok cool... Battery dies before the lawn is cut? That's strange... The engine has a magneto and doesn't rely on the battery to keep it running once it's started. Maybe they would shut it off to go do something and then came back and it was dead. Maybe the battery was just bad already and wouldn't keep the charge? That's something I'd have to see. I'd be curious what you find out on that one!
@@JLPicard440
It has an electric PTO for the blades, and it stops cutting the grass. That's the main problem. That's why I think it's either the alternator, or voltage regulator.
The owner replaced the battery and it did the same thing with the new battery. Those electric PTO's draw a lot of amps when they first engage, but after they lock up, it doesn't need as much. Still it is a drain on the battery. I hope you can understand, I may not be very clear in my description of the problems. I appreciate your help.
GREAT JOB!
Thank u!
Fantastic video, thanks for sharing. You did a great job showing how the linkage connects to the carb... My problem is the other ends of the linkage (yes I didn't pay close attention to where they came from) Can you send me a picture?
Arrgh... I don't have access to this mower anymore. With the top of the engine off are there places with little holes where the linkage could go?
seemed like there is some type of schmoo (locktite ) on the bolts holding the shroud on ?? any thoughts
There might be. Ive never put it back and never had any problem with the bolts coming loose... You can use the blue loctite and it'll come off easier next time.. 😀
Very good video. I tried following along and put mine back together. It's stuck at full throttle whether I move the lever up or down. The linkages looks the same to me. Only thing I can think of I didn't see in yours is maybe little metal gaskets in between the carburetor and manifold gasket. They have 2 beveled lips on them. I'm not sure which way they go. I didn't notice it on yours. I had read somewhere that they have to be turned a certain way or throttle will be stuck. I wish I could see information about them. I feel like there's metal gaskets in each side of the carburetor, but can't recall.
Oh wow.. Yea without seeing it it's really hard to say. Those gaskets have holes in them that will line up with holes in the carburetor, so it should be really easy to see which way they go. Unfortunately you will have to take it apart again to determine if they're backwards or not. Are you sure the throttle linkage is on correct?
Mine won’t throttle town right and always takes a while to start! Runs good after it fires up though. Any ideas?
I wonder if the choke / throttle linkage is working right?
I know this is old hopefully I get an answer so if I spray carb cleaner in spark plugs or air filter it should bypass carb. And start temporarily is that correct??
I usually spray right in the intake of the carburetor... You can spray into the spark plugs, but it seems like more work to remove the plugs! I usually don't use carb cleaner, I usually try to use starting fluid or a small amount of gas (harder to spray)..
Loctite on butterfly screws. Didnt hear it mentioned in the vid. Otherwise good how to. 👍🏻
Good tip.. thanks for the info.. 🙂
I love the way you explain things but I have a question I have a Briggs and Stratton lawn mower it's a V6400 craftsman 0 turn on the carburetor it has a spring The mower is about 3 years old for some reason we're not putting the linkage back correctly is there something we're not doing like tightening or it won't go up and down as needed
I'm a female.. I've been at this for a while
Hi! Without being able to see it, I can't tell what could be wrong. Do you have FB? You should be able to upload a picture there and I can try to see if I see anything wrong. It's on the take a bath productions FB page...
I'm working on the same engine.
Got carb off and can see where it's been leaking and blackened the orange rings on one side each. It only has 155 hours.
Symptoms. Runs perfectly until the engine warms up/ gets hot.
Then it loses power and dies. I can start it again but only on choke. Cools down.. and it's fine.
I think the orange gaskets leaking is my problem. Thermal expansion is making the bolts expand just enough to let it leak. I'm going to use some blue permatex and put it back on then tighten the bolts good. They have red thread locker on them so I'll add more of that.
Think it'll work?
It's possible. I'd say it's a good place to start. When you take out those orange O-rings, do they feel hard or brittle? Or soft like they should be? Try to loosen the gas tank cap and see if it's not venting properly. Also make sure the fuel line isn't kinked anywhere or clogged with trash. Just some other things you might try..
Only thing that worries me is re-installing the butterfly and getting it right the first time.
you can mark it with a sharpie then you can't make any mistake.. Just make sure not to get any cleaners or chemicals on the mark or it'll come right off! Or etch it with a screwdriver, then that solves that too..
Great video!! Thank you!! When I pulled it apart the 2 jets in the intake tube were in the bottom of the bowl. The O ring (which appears to try to keep the jets in place) stayed in the bowl which caused the jets to fall out. When I replaced the jets and the O Ring, the jets fall down to the O Ring. They do not fit tight into the intake tube holes. Is this normal?
HI, no that doesn't sound normal. Did you replace the o-rings? OR reuse the old ones? They should be tight enough to hold themselves in the tube.
@@JLPicard440 I found new viton o rings on ebay and they should be here this week. New jets (genuine) are expensive! O rings are not. Thank you for the info!
@@treagan2666 Awesome! I hope they work out for you...
A great video! Liked and subscribed. I can't get past opening the float bowl as I can't get the two bowl bolts out. I saw someone use a butane mini-torch successfully but I'm leery about doing that around possible residual gas. Might you have any suggestions for getting those loose? Also, I've read that flooding is often caused by a stuck float. If that's the case, will you find it stuck when you open the bowl? Thanks.
HI! I absolutely don't recommend using a torch around a carburetor! I wouldn't do it myself. I would maybe try some PB Blaster and let it soak for a while.. Try to get it in around the threads. I've never had bolts that wouldn't come out, but they're out there... Maybe a pencil torch if the PB Blaster doesn't work, but I'd still be really cautious about doing that... any residual gas and you'll have a good fire to cook marshmallows on...
@@JLPicard440 Thank you!
@@vitex1231 yw
Why is one cylinder set up to run leaner than the other ? ? ? ? ?
I think it has to do with the distance the fuel travels through the intake.
I bought a replacement carburetor for my Briggs and Stratton V-Twin and noticed that they provided gaskets (2 identical) for the bowl, but my original carb (and yours by the look of it) doesn't use a gasket. Is it recommended to use one? Edit: I just realized they are gaskets for the manifold, nevermind!
I was about to look at the video... I remember a o-ring type rubber gasket for the bowl.. 😀. Glad you worked it out..
Good video, it's a shame a new carb was cheaper than a kit for the original in my case.
Runs like new as long as you adjust the valves once a year.
Yea I know.. those carbs have gotten really cheap.. did u get a OEM or aftermarket?
@@JLPicard440 It was purchased off ebay and I'm sure some kind of China clone.
No markings whatsoever but otherwise identical to the original.
Right on... I usually use the aftermarket ones, I've had pretty good luck with them.. for 1/2 the price.. :-)
I'm great video brother thank you for your knowledge and expertise I am new to the V twin engines I took one off my Tractor and turned her into a boat motor but I do not know how to lower the idle I cannot change years from forward to reverse with the engine running there's too much torque on the transmission how do I lower the RP m's Great you I am a new subscriberTo Sue the rest of you video
There's usually a idle screw. I don't know if the particular one your working on has it or not. You might be able to bend the lever that the throttle spring is hooked to to lower the RPM's.. It's only going to idle but so low before it tries to die on you.
@@JLPicard440 thank you 4oo to500 rpm. I am computer stupid I'm trying to put delete to my video in this message in this not working very well title of Video is 22 horsepower V twin bridge and Stratton Outboard motor DETROITREDNECK is my RUclips channel name I will try to post a video
Great Video - this will be my weekend project - pulled out the mower and it wont start - couple of big backfires thats it.. plugs look good so figured it is the carb. question tho - i noticed on mine that there are small slits in the vacuum hose off the bottom port of the fuel pump - are these factory or does the hose need to be replaced - and could it be my issue? Thanks for posting this!
HI, yes i've seen those dry rot before. If you squeeze it can you see more dry rot?? That's what it sounds like to me
I have a older model Briggs Intek 22 Hp and it started missing out no where on the 1 cylinder so ive put new spark plugs in , new diaphragm fuel pump , adjusted valves , cleaned carb and still same exact issue , i must have missed something , if i choke it that 2nd cylinder runs but choke off that cylinder backfires out exhaust so i must of missed the Low idle part of carb.
Do you have a way to do a compression test on that cylinder?
@@JLPicard440 Thats 1 tool I don't have , however I should get one but on these with a compression release , it's hard to check compression others say.
@@BlettzaHrekleW It shouldn't be very hard. If you have a harbor freight nearby they should have one, if not Amazon will have it pretty cheap... It's worth checking so you can at least eliminate that as a possibility if it checks out ok.
I have a 2008 Husqvarna ride on with one of these engines, and the fuel filter is covered in gas after running the mower. Does that require an entire rebuild? I have to mow once a week with no replacement mower, so I think I have to take my carb to someone to rebuild. I want to make sure that sounds like a likely solution to the issue before throwing money at the problem. Thank you for the awesome video by the way!!
HI, you must mean the air filter! It sounds like possibly the needle and seat not cutting off properly.. Does it sound like the choke is releasing all the way?
@@JLPicard440 Yes, I meant the air filter. It does sound like the engine is cutting out after a while, especially if I have the blades going; almost like it's too rich. After mowing for 30 minutes the engine starts to stall unless I turn the blades off and ease up on the gas for a minute or two
@@chimera5588 Hmm,.. if it's a auto choke, it might not be releasing.. worth looking at the linkage to see if anything is noticeable..
@@JLPicard440 Thank you for the tip! I'll check that out 👍
I can’t figure out what exactly is wrong with my grasshopper with this engine. It won’t start unless u use starter fluid and then it runs great, I replaced the vacuum pump and the little vacuum hose that goes to the head cover but it still won’t start on it’s own. Is there another vacuum line I’m missing?
Could it be the choke isn't closing all the way?
Help, Drained fuel and replaced with known good fuel. Replaced carburetor, fuel pump, spark plugs, fuel filter and air filter. Engine still turns over but doesn't start. It kicks over and starts with starting fluid but quits when that is burned up. Any ideas?
Maybe the valves out out of adjustment? Sounds like you've done mostly everything possible. If you have a compression gauge, I'd check the compression and see what that looks like. Does it sound normal when it's cranking?
@@JLPicard440 Thanks I checked compression it looks good, gonna check the valve adjustment next, but would compression check good if the valves are out of adjustment?
@@michaelthomason9007 Yea good point... That's a good one. Is the fuel filter filling up with fuel? Are you sure the known good fuel isn't full of water? I know, I'm grasping at straws!... But there's not much left... :-)
Can you get the bowl off without taking off the carb? I don't have a good track record of things working again when I dive this deep.
You probably can, but I'm not sure you'd be able to get the tools in under the bowl..
I have Briggs twin cyl two carbs iam looking for the linkages 20hp for the back of the carb
I don't have a sample of that engine... two carbs?? Is that an older one?
Hi, first your videos is awesome. I have a problem, just wandering can you help? My lawn mowers is nit even cranking but my starter is turning. Do you have any idea why? Or any suggestion?
If the starter is cranking but not turning the engine, it could be that there's a broken tooth on the flywheel that the starter is engaging on but can't turn the engine. It could be that the starter gear isn't popping up to engage the flywheel. You'll have to pull the top cover of the engine off so you can see what's going on there and observe the starter when it's being cranked. If the gear isn't popping up to engage the flywheel, it could be gummed up with something keeping it from moving smoothly. This can usually be taken apart and cleaned and relubed, but I can't explain how here in this text. It may also be that the gear on the starter itself is stripped out. there's not much else it could be.
Superb work on the carb. I did mine, but the choke linkage seems to be messed up and not engaging. Is there anything special I need to do to get it aligned again?
Without seeing it, it's difficult to say.. The cable for the choke has a hold down clamp.. Is that adjusted?
Thanks for the reply. There is a hold down clamp, but it doesn't look like there is any adjustability. I'll check this weekend.
@@velodaman Usually you can loosen the screw and move the cable back and fourth. That may not be what's wrong, but I was just throwing it out there. I usually pull the choke control in full choke position and adjust the cable accordingly.. then when you push the choke to the off position, it'll be adjusted. if that makes any sense.
Bonehead alert: I found the issue. On the choke flange where the choke linkage attaches, I had put it in the incorrect hole. Now that its in the correct hole and put back together, it started right up and runs great. Thanks again for the great video and the support.
@@velodaman That's awesome! Yea without seeing it, its difficult to say. They say a picture is worth 1000 words... being there in person to see must be worth much more! You're welcome, I'm glad you got it going...
I have a very similar Briggs and Stratton 26hp. It has a new carb, but it's having trouble with surging. The throttle lever is not as responsive (but connected) as I'd like it to be. It usually sputters out at the lowest idle throttle. Any tips would be really appreciated. Thanks.
HI, I did a video on this a while back. Give this a try and see if there's any luck. Even with a new carb. Is there any chance the gas is contaminated with anything? Did you drain it and replace fuel lines and filter too?
ruclips.net/video/dnEgZ_uqxiQ/видео.html
I usually just put gas in the plug and it will start working, but those engine are so bad to cold start. Spring startup is a frustrating activity. If you can avoid buying a tractor with the V Twin do it.
If you have a local gas station with ethanol free gas that's what I have been using and I am not having any trouble. I have actually had good luck with the V-Twin engine. If you don't have ethanol free gas available, u have to either completely drain the fuel system, including the carburetor bowl, or keep the tank completely full so there's no room for moisture and use plenty of gas stabil in the tank and run it so it circulates thru the carburetor. The ethanol attracts moisture and causes all sorts of trouble over the winter.
My carb is missing the spring, any idea where to find one ?
If you get the model number off your engine. It's usually on the valve cover on a briggs engine... you can go to a website like www.partstree.com and get the parts breakdown for it... from there, you should be able to identify the spring and get the part number... Hope that helps.
I have one that will only run if I'm blocking 95% of the air from coming into it. I was going to try this first, but how can you test a fuel pump?
HI!... You can test the fuel pump by disconnecting the output side that goes to the carburetor and holding the hose in a jar while cranking the engine over. However, from the symptom you described I doubt it's the fuel pump. Sounds like some blockage in the carburetor...
@@JLPicard440 the fuel filter never really fills up, it just has a little amount of gas in it. I'm going to check it out today. I'd much rather change the fuel pump than take all that mess off.
Yea if it's got fuel just trickling in, then I would definitely check that first!
@@JLPicard440 I checked the fuel pump, it's fine. I guess I'll be taking this thing apart. Goody goody.
@@inscoredbz ☹... I'm working on a bear right now myself.. Got one that's got a popping/ miss in the exhaust. I was thinking the coil was going bad, but now going to take another look at the carburetor..
Hi, Thank for video. My mower has one problem. Then I try to start engine after 5-7 day, starter work 5-10secont, and after engine start to run? I make a test: then engine start, I quick stop engine, and again try to start - no problem (engine quickly to start). Before then I try to start after long time first time engine check fuel level in tank and fuel in fuel filter, it was OK. Maybe the fuel evaporates from carburetor?
Are you saying the engine starts and then won't stay running? I couldn't understand the question very well. IF it won't stay running, has it been sitting for a long time? Could be water in fuel? Is carburetor dirty? Trash in fuel tank? How about the fuel cap? Try to run without fuel cap in place to see if the fuel cap is causing a vapor lock..
@@JLPicard440 IF it won't stay running, has it been sitting for a long time? - YES. The main problem then I start the engine after 5-7 days off work . The starter rotating 5-10second( starter need to rotating several times), after engine start. Water, trach in fuel - NO, Mower running time 55 hours.
@@arasaras-bi3ez If it's been sitting a long time... like a few months, the carburetor is probably getting clogged up. Has it been sitting 5-7 days or a few months? 5-7 days isn't a long time.
Purchased a new carb kit but it didn't come with the four long screws that affix it to the engine. Just wondering how I can get them off the old one
Are they those ones with the small heads on them? I seem to remember them being a 4MM 6 sided socket unless I'm thinking of something else.. is there a video time stamp of the ones you mean if I'm remembering wrong?
@@JLPicard440 thanks for the reply. They were actually being heald in place by the gaskets which were stuck to the carb I discovered yesterday. When I scraped away the gaskets they just slid out. Thanks again from Ireland. Without your video I would have been in trouble. 👍
@@WillOfTheWeb Awesome! Glad you got it apart.. 😀
Thanks for the great video TBP. I was wondering, is there a way to empty the bowl before storing it for the winter?
HI, you can loosen the solenoid at the bottom of the carburetor and that'll drain the fuel out. Just remove the wire first and leave it loose so any remaining fuel will evaporate.
@@JLPicard440 Thank you.
Keep the good work.
@@charlieg.6242 You're welcome!
Shut off fuel and let it run until it dies.....
That works for the most part, but won't get 100% of the fuel out. Even loosening the solenoid will get the fuel out of the bowl, but some fuel will remain in the solenoid. To get 100% out, remove the solenoid and shake it while pressing the plunger a few times... that should get most of it out. Those things have a habit of rusting and then they don't work to good after that.
Looking for a fuel sinantor
what's a fuel sinantor?
Watches video and realize it's easier just to order a whole carburetor. My Briggs & Stratton 24 horsepower was flooding with fuel so it couldn't fire.
Sometimes it is.. If your fuel keeps coming in, you probably need a new needle and seat