It also gives a clear image on which direction the springs go. That does make a difference for correct operation. The bottom tab on the governor spring is also how to get higher rpms. Bend that tab down slightly increasing tension gives you higher rpms. However to do that adjustment you need to know exactly what the rpms are. To high and you could blow the engine up. To low and you do not have a quality cut. 3600-3700 is what most mowers need. Do check the specs first.
Your one simple instruction about the governor adjustment at 5:00 was exactly what I needed and saved me SO MUCH TIME. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video.
Thank you sir for taking the time to help others you don't even know and making this very descriptive video. answered my questions. It is people like you that make the world a better place. God bless
I very much enjoy your teaching approach. Your 'show and tell' method is done with great clarity of detail, explaining how parts work and how each may depend on the proper performance of another. Also, I'm very pleased and impressed by the effort and time that you invest, in making sure that your viewers know the proper name of each part being replaced/repaired. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and skills with all of us. ~ Khoaken~
I was in the middle of evaluating my own 20HP Vtwin Intek problem, just prior to finding your video [above]. Normally, I'd call my brother, at his shop, and pick his brain-bone for advise. As a 45 year veteran of small engine repair, with certifications for doing warranty work for KOHLER and BRIGGS & STRATTON, he had a lot to bring to the table, when it came to question and answers. [At the risk of over sharing ... If my brother (Hal) had not passed away, on this past Labor Day weekend, we probably would not be having this exchange]. That aside, while attempting to access my engine problem, I was first convinced that I was dealing with a bad coil. Both coils tested, had spark. Still, it started well enough, but after about 30 to 45 minutes of mowing, it began to 'sputter' [like when there's only a small amount of gas kicking around at the bottom of the tank]. Of course, I went through everything from checking fuel filters, fuel lines and even the pump, to checking electrical 'cut off switches' and the wire harnesses themselves. Hal was still around at the time the trouble had begun, so I took my carburetor to the shop, ran it through the 'sonic' carb cleaner and even took it apart and cleaned the jets [one at a time (L & R)...lol] and put in a complete carb kit. Long story short ...today, here at my garage, I got to thinking about that time, and it dawned on me to check the springs that control the governor and throttle. Turns out that the 'governed spring' had come unhooked from the base plate. After reattaching it, I test started the engine. It ran quite well, except it needed a very small idle adjustment. I mowed with it, for about two hours. Now, I have a concern: While experiencing the engine trouble, I had mowed with the machine, about a dozen times. After about 45 minutes, I'd have to 'park it' in the garage, until the next day. Then, I could finish the mowing. Would you give me your thoughts regarding any concerns that I should be wary of, because of using it while the governed spring was not attached? [ additional note: After mowing today ( about two hours worth), and while driving back to the garage, with the deck disengaged, the engine sounded like it needed another minor idle adjustment. Any thoughts...? Just mentioning it as 'food for thought' .] Thanks. ~K~
I have watched so many videos, Then this one popped up, I was ready to replace my entire engine. 1/2 hour and running great because of this video, THANK YOU SO MUCH 😊😊😊😊.
Just the video I was looking for. Over time the low idle speed has been creeping up. I had to replace the magnetos after a mouse ate through the wiring and when I reassembled it all the low idle was even higher - which I guess had to do with the new magnetos and plugs. I noticed the linkage was not hitting the idle stop so I did a little "bending" and made it worse...I lost top end power. I know my way around car engines but not all to familiar with small engines. Now that I know how all this stuff works together I think I can get I back to where it should be. Thanks for taking the time to explain it all brother !!
Just replaced my oil pan/sump gasket after purchasing a used LA175 JD, and boom FULL RPM at start of the mower. JD and Briggs document that I could find were know help. Your video is exactly the information I was after and needed to be explained!!! Thank you , thank you and thanks again!
This answered the exact question I had. I rebuilt the carb on my 28 hp B&S OHC v-twin, and in the process cleaned a bunch of built-up grime. I removed the governor arm bolt you pointed out in the process of removing the carb and gleaning all the gunk out (the gunk was caused by years of a leaking crank seal that I changed last year when I bought the tractor). I caused a racing condition when I put everything back together. Your video was a rifle shot explanation (hit the bulls eye). Thanks very much for making the video!
@@Gods-Elect did you find a solution? Hi, Had a bad misfire, replaced carburettor. Engine now revs very high. Took engine out replaced with a new governor, did not look damaged at all. Adjusted governor to carb as per instructions. Still revs high. Noticed the Governor arm does not seem to move througout the rev range. Any ideas? Thanks
Sir, thank you. There are many a video of Billy-Joes and Jim-bobs trying to have a TV show that leave out 75% of the info you gave. Thank you for both the no-nonsense explanation and the usefullness of said explanation.
Watched your video, because I have the same engine on my Husqvarna. Problem from day one was it was not choking.... Thanks to your video I was able to do the cable adjustment and I now have it cranking with a properly adjusted choke . Thanks.
I did a repower on my John Deere z520a from a Kohler to Briggs cxi 2700 and have been racking my brain for two days trying to figure out how to hook up the throttle 😂 glad I found your video! Thanks!
Great video. I fixed a lawn mower about 4 years ago. Had the same issue but did not distroyed the engine and I was able to replace the device with the weights. It still works. BUT I never knew what mechanically had happened. Great to know.
thank you for explaining in less than 7 mins. there are ppl. that start talking about themselves or their life and their videos go over way too long, I don't have time for all that. Anyway, I am just going to take my machine to someone to adjust it because it's more complicated than I thought. My engine starting to rev, way too high while I was cutting grass on my riding lawnmower.
Thank you very much I have been trying for a long time to figure this out should be this goddamn hard need more people like you in this world wish you the best
Really appreciate you doing this video. I dropped a pushrod into my crankcase and had to pull the engine to get it out. After starting it today I found something was wrong with the governor. I'll make the adjustments you mentioned now that I understand how it works.
Thank you for explaining everything the way that you explained it most guys don't do it like that and I really appreciate that it help me a lot and thank you for your videos God bless stay safe
The arms for the springs are final adjustments for the govenor but no one tells about that, you can change the springs but final low speed adjustment for the govenor is done by forming the arm that changes its tension on the govenor arm.
Thank you so much for this video. I changed my carb and fooled with the governor like an idiot and had engine racing. Haven't ran it 1 full minute tho so very thankful for this video
I'm not touching that governor. I don't need those kinds of problems. I did have to get my governor spring reattached though and this video was a big help for doing that. So thanks. I have a working throttle now again.
Thank you for the great video! The tractor I bought used was racing even on no throttle so I adjusted the governer as you instructed. Now throttle and idle is perfect. I’m just worried how much damage the last guy did to it.
This video was they key to figuring out how to "set" everything. I have a 2004 L120 with the 20hp B&S intek and my sump gasket started to leak. Long store short I replaced it got the motor back on and bolted down, hook battery and starter back up and the fuel lines. Fired it up and it started to runaway so I killed the motor. 3hr into why is it running away I find this video. Which was the answer I was looking. A great video one the names of the parts to proper idel position on the throttle plate. ALTHOUGH it's all correct now the governor in the motor does not seem to be controlling the lever controlling my idel, UNLESS I'm holding the gonvenor level in the idle position. I hope I didn't screw up then internal governor parts. THANKS FOR THIS THOROUGH AND DETAILED VIDEO!! Am i going to have to pulled the sump back off to see what i have going on. Again the govenor level seem to NOT be undercontrol by the plunger that contacts the govenor rode that controls the governor lever. Let me know THANKS AGAIN
Thanks for making this video, though I found it too late. I purchased a 2005 Exmark Lazer Z from a guy who had replaced the engine with a 20hp Briggs Vanguard, and when I went to buy it, I noticed that he had to flip the throttle up to half in order to get it started, even when choked. It ran fine once started, and at full throttle, it seemed to me that it wasn't revving up high enough, and it would stumble quite a bit when the PTO was engaged, but it would recover and mowed fine. I bought it for a pretty deep discount, all things considered, but after mowing with it a few times, I knew something was off. I pulled the air breather and choke plate off, and didn't see anything unusual (my first thought was the throttle plate not opening all the way). Then I noticed the governor had a broken shaft spring, and a missing idle spring. The fat governor spring was there, but doesn't appear to be connected properly, or it is the wrong size. I spent several days googling to find a drawing or picture or schematic of how the springs should look, but couldn't find anything, so I just went ahead and used the parts diagram to order 3 new springs. I also spent $25 on a Briggs service manual, and after looking at the pictures in there, I could have just figured it out myself based on the length of the springs. Oh well, at least it should be running properly after I get the springs on there.
Might want to do a compression check or pull the heads and look at your gaskets. A bad head gasket will cause combustion gasses to enter the block and reduce the pressure differential across the piston. This can also cause poor acceleration and lack of power. Its also very common for them to go out.
@@mbakken11 I put the new governor springs on yesterday, and while I was at it, pulled the valve covers to check the lash. One of the cylinders had valves that were way out of spec, extremely loose. I set all of the valves to .005 per the manual, and now it purs like a kitten, and revs up and down just fine.
Hi, Checked compression, New Plugs, checked tappets. When I out 2 springs on, it runs flat out. If your move the arm from the Govermor you can control revs, you have to keep holding the lever. when I disconnect the small spring and add a light spring to the throttle I can use the mower carefully, engine runs smooth. Thanks
You saved me from doing something stupid. I was watching this to find a way to enriching the gas. The plugs are near perfect. And I'm changing the whole fuel line to help flow some. Actually she's running great. How come gas lines are connected by such small connections on tank?
Even the smallest fuel line is much much larger than the carb jets that the fuel will eventually pass through. The line and filter should not be an issue unless they are plugged
@@mbakken11 now that you said that it makes sense. Thanks it's been years since I've done any real maintenance. I heard the lines degrade. Otherwise it's like the day I got it. Was thinking of checking valve clearance. Don't think it's ever been checked.
Thank you so much!! I bought a mower with the vangaurd motor n they had all that un hooked where they swapped the motor. Idk that was how it went, I thout it may be, after a while lookin, then seen yr video n I was like yes yes yes finally some one that shows all of it.
Thank you for the explanation! I replaced the carburetor on my Briggs engine (engine # 405777-0112-E1) and it just won’t start 🤦🏼♀️ I have choked it then no choke open throttle and tried half throttle- no luck… the gov springs are all on the right way… changed the old spark plugs out to new ones…. Still no luck… I’m puzzled but not giving up just yet… also the starter ain’t in the best shape either
I bought a nice used Jacobs front cut mower about 10 years ago, I thought it was a good idea to start it up with the throttle linkage off. Well, mine turned out the same way as his after I simulated a mid-90's F1 engine for about 3 seconds. 😂 Never felt so dumb in my entire life, but lessoned learned ntl.
My throttle wheel had the choke mechanism attached to it where, past the point of full throttle, the choke is engaged. Mine had a bit of dried mud stopping the choke lever from full travel upwards, if I had not looked, I would have never spotted it. Yep, that’ll cause it to be very hard to start. It borders on near impossible to start. That 1 lever!
Was trying to avoid over paying $5.00 (plus shipping) for $.001 worth of wire. I actually did have to bend some of the tabs to get the engine to idle right. There's another guy on the tube that talks about doing just that.
At 3:00 minutes in your video you talk about the idle, I have a light spring that is around the rod that goes from the lever at the bottom to the throttle plate. I have the spring connected at the bottom but I don't know it attaches at the top.
i played with mine for almost an hour and put it back like it was in 2 min after watching. next time i might take a pic or two before i take one apart lol
Hello. Great vid. Infomation. I have a BS V TWIN. BUT mine unlike most has a single carb w horizonal shafts. I waited 2-1/2 months for a replacement. I am unsure of the linkage. Are any vids about this setup?????
There is an adjustment of he governor.. You adjust it right or you adjust it wrong. You prefer to say setting and that just means there are more ways than one to teach information about a governor
I don't know what year model this is or if they made a change but I have an about 2015 vangaurd on a longtail and the rotation on the governor is counter clockwise. You will know as soon as you crank it for sure.
I watched your video I took the engine apart did not see anything wrong with the governor. I changed it anyway did not make a difference any help in guidance would be greatly appreciated Thank you for your time
I’ve NO intention of adjusting this! What I can see is that the engine oil MUST be changed each year with the grade necessary for proper operation with the temperature range it operates in. For me, that is straight 40 weight oil, for south Louisiana rarely gets real cold temps.
You are a star! I’ve rebuilt the carb on my 24hp Intek V twin (44S877].. Now I can’t see how to reconnect the linkages!! Any way you might show what rods connect to what? Best...
I believe I have that exact motor on a mower at our farm, but I won't be able to get pictures of it for a while. The linkages should be very similar to this video, otherwise you can look up your engine on a site like ereplacementparts.com or Jack's small engine. They have exploded diagrams that are mildly useful. Sorry I can't be more help at the moment
great video I had already set governor just as you showed and my engine still revs way too high. Just rebuilt from an auction find and did replace 1 push rod assembly and piston but all else seemed tight and when I can control the rev the engine runs great. little to no tension on the governor/throttle lever but the engine in full or no throttle still revs out. very confused...
Thanks for the helpful video. I have a Briggs & Stratton Intek 7.0 which won’t run well and I’m wondering how to adjust it. It always starts from cold, but then the revs dip every six seconds or so and it either stalls or nearly stalls then recovers. Once warmed up a bit, it runs ok until I stop the engine, then after that it will never start again when warm. If it nearly starts it dies after a few secs. I guess I have to adjust governer, throttle or choke but I don’t know where to start.
hey man i redoing one of these rn and this was very helpful. Can you show the orientation of the choke linkage. Or send a assembly guide or something. I'm used to motorcycles when the maker has complete diagrams of everything. Seems like these leave you out to dry. Appreciate it !
I changed out my carb. Put back together. Start engine and it runs wide open. When I checked the linkage rod for the throttle side it was pulling the throttle wide open or fully down. Not sure where I may have made a mistake? Any suggestions would be appreciated
I did. It was the internal gov. I just ended up buying a new mower. I did sell the old one to a guy who rebuilds mowers then resells. I just didn't have the time, nor wanted to throw a bunch of money on an old mower
You mentioned “ a lever going to the auto choke” I have the auto choke and the lever was missing when I purchased the mower so can you describe the location and placement of the auto choke that is the bimetallic heating choke.
Could you please try and answer a question? I was given a craftsman professional garden tractor and it has been sitting for about two years and I cleaned the carb checked everything out and made sure all linkages are correct. Started the mower and it goes wide open and the governor linkage doesn’t move as far as going to idle. I have to push it up by hand to idle down. Thanks
@@bryanslittlegarage5724 anything is possible. If it ran WOT too long it could have damaged the plunger inside - could have skipped the circlip. How much rotation did that shaft have when you loosened the clamp?
I got one of these (very used) and when I mess with the throttle, it gets stuck at full throttle, and I push the little arm up, but it keeps going full blast, why?
Great video. I have an old Briggs& Stratton 22 HP twin cylinder, overhead valve engine. I was cutting and then the engine started running at max revs (much faster than the 'Fast' Setting on my Throttle Control Lever), even when I set the throttle to Slow/Idle. When I start the engine with the Throttle at Slow, the engine still runs at max rev. I see in your video that the throttle is wide open because of how the springs are set. Mine is the same... What will close the throttle plate to the Idle Screw? Right now I have to push the Governor Lever up manually. I dont see any holes or nooks for where a spring should be... Is there a third governor spring that broke off? I am not seeing anything in the Parts Manual that help me figure it out. Thanks.
I have a problem with one of those engines it's related to what this video is. it's not a governor issue but the problem is not with the governor if the throttle plates are open is just a teeny bit and I mean the tiniest that you can open them the engine over revs, and if you open it up Full Throttle the engine screams have you ever run into anything like that before
I forgot to mention I bought this engine brand new and it has run like this since day one as a matter of fact it ended up bending the pushrods on cylinder number two and I took it off put another on the mower. I repaired this engine and it's been sitting on my garage floor for 2 years I finally put it on another mower today I would say at full throttle it runs at close to twice the RPM it should
Great video! My 2009, Intek 23 hp has an automatic choke. The engine takes about 30 - 45 seconds to start when cold. Once warmed up it starts right up. Is it possible the choke isn’t working? How do I check?
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This is the best video for explaining the linkage/spring locations and the governor's operation. Thank you.
It also gives a clear image on which direction the springs go. That does make a difference for correct operation. The bottom tab on the governor spring is also how to get higher rpms. Bend that tab down slightly increasing tension gives you higher rpms. However to do that adjustment you need to know exactly what the rpms are. To high and you could blow the engine up. To low and you do not have a quality cut. 3600-3700 is what most mowers need. Do check the specs first.
Finally (on RUclips) someone who knows what he is talking about and can explain it clearly with great pictures.
Your one simple instruction about the governor adjustment at 5:00 was exactly what I needed and saved me SO MUCH TIME. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this video.
Where did you order the spring from? I’m having the same issue.
@@johnminckler4605 Hey John, I'm just a commenter, not the video maker. I had my original spring.
Thank you sir for taking the time to help others you don't even know and making this very descriptive video.
answered my questions. It is people like you that make the world a better place.
God bless
I very much enjoy your teaching approach. Your 'show and tell' method is done with great clarity of detail, explaining how parts work and how each may depend on the proper performance of another. Also, I'm very pleased and impressed by the effort and time that you invest, in making sure that your viewers know the proper name of each part being replaced/repaired. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge and skills with all of us. ~ Khoaken~
mrcashcrop thank you, I appreciate the comment. I feel obligated to help the community if I can after all I've learned from others over the years.
I was in the middle of evaluating my own 20HP Vtwin Intek problem, just prior to finding your video [above]. Normally, I'd call my brother, at his shop, and pick his brain-bone for advise. As a 45 year veteran of small engine repair, with certifications for doing warranty work for KOHLER and BRIGGS & STRATTON, he had a lot to bring to the table, when it came to question and answers. [At the risk of over sharing ... If my brother (Hal) had not passed away, on this past Labor Day weekend, we probably would not be having this exchange]. That aside, while attempting to access my engine problem, I was first convinced that I was dealing with a bad coil. Both coils tested, had spark. Still, it started well enough, but after about 30 to 45 minutes of mowing, it began to 'sputter' [like when there's only a small amount of gas kicking around at the bottom of the tank].
Of course, I went through everything from checking fuel filters, fuel lines and even the pump, to checking electrical 'cut off switches' and the wire harnesses themselves. Hal was still around at the time the trouble had begun, so I took my carburetor to the shop, ran it through the 'sonic' carb cleaner and even took it apart and cleaned the jets [one at a time (L & R)...lol] and put in a complete carb kit. Long story short ...today, here at my garage, I got to thinking about that time, and it dawned on me to check the springs that control the governor and throttle. Turns out that the 'governed spring' had come unhooked from the base plate. After reattaching it, I test started the engine. It ran quite well, except it needed a very small idle adjustment. I mowed with it, for about two hours. Now, I have a concern: While experiencing the engine trouble, I had mowed with the machine, about a dozen times. After about 45 minutes, I'd have to 'park it' in the garage, until the next day. Then, I could finish the mowing. Would you give me your thoughts regarding any concerns that I should be wary of, because of using it while the governed spring was not attached? [ additional note: After mowing today ( about two hours worth), and while driving back to the garage, with the deck disengaged, the engine sounded like it needed another minor idle adjustment. Any thoughts...? Just mentioning it as 'food for thought' .] Thanks. ~K~
This is a great video. Very few videos on YOU TUBE have a detailed explanation as good as this video. Thanks!
I have watched so many videos, Then this one popped up, I was ready to replace my entire engine. 1/2 hour and running great because of this video, THANK YOU SO MUCH 😊😊😊😊.
Just the video I was looking for. Over time the low idle speed has been creeping up. I had to replace the magnetos after a mouse ate through the wiring and when I reassembled it all the low idle was even higher - which I guess had to do with the new magnetos and plugs. I noticed the linkage was not hitting the idle stop so I did a little "bending" and made it worse...I lost top end power. I know my way around car engines but not all to familiar with small engines. Now that I know how all this stuff works together I think I can get I back to where it should be. Thanks for taking the time to explain it all brother !!
You're the only person that has ever described The Springs and their action
Thanks so much, i was having issue with my B&S and in only 30 sec you showed me that i had the throttle and choke levers backwards. Great help!!
Just replaced my oil pan/sump gasket after purchasing a used LA175 JD, and boom FULL RPM at start of the mower. JD and Briggs document that I could find were know help. Your video is exactly the information I was after and needed to be explained!!! Thank you , thank you and thanks again!
This answered the exact question I had. I rebuilt the carb on my 28 hp B&S OHC v-twin, and in the process cleaned a bunch of built-up grime. I removed the governor arm bolt you pointed out in the process of removing the carb and gleaning all the gunk out (the gunk was caused by years of a leaking crank seal that I changed last year when I bought the tractor). I caused a racing condition when I put everything back together. Your video was a rifle shot explanation (hit the bulls eye). Thanks very much for making the video!
I have the racing condition how did you fix it?
@@Gods-Elect did you find a solution?
Hi, Had a bad misfire, replaced carburettor. Engine now revs very high. Took engine out replaced with a new governor, did not look damaged at all. Adjusted governor to carb as per instructions.
Still revs high. Noticed the Governor arm does not seem to move througout the rev range. Any ideas? Thanks
Sir, thank you. There are many a video of Billy-Joes and Jim-bobs trying to have a TV show that leave out 75% of the info you gave. Thank you for both the no-nonsense explanation and the usefullness of said explanation.
Watched your video, because I have the same engine on my Husqvarna. Problem from day one was it was not choking....
Thanks to your video I was able to do the cable adjustment and I now have it cranking with a properly adjusted choke . Thanks.
Although I have an earlier version of the twin V the throttle/ governor assembly is the same. Your explanation is very helpful, thanks.
Thanks .... This is THE BEST explanation if the governor parts and adjustments I've seen to date.
Exactly what I was looking for, thanks for the clear description!
I did a repower on my John Deere z520a from a Kohler to Briggs cxi 2700 and have been racking my brain for two days trying to figure out how to hook up the throttle 😂 glad I found your video! Thanks!
Great video. I fixed a lawn mower about 4 years ago. Had the same issue but did not distroyed the engine and I was able to replace the device with the weights. It still works. BUT I never knew what mechanically had happened. Great to know.
Best video for governer/throttle setup on youtube, hands down.
thank you for explaining in less than 7 mins. there are ppl. that start talking about themselves or their life and their videos go over way too long, I don't have time for all that. Anyway, I am just going to take my machine to someone to adjust it because it's more complicated than I thought. My engine starting to rev, way too high while I was cutting grass on my riding lawnmower.
Great video. The adjustment explanation is perfect!
Thanks to you and this video,I can reassemble stuff that I take apart on a heavy drinking night!
Thank you very much I have been trying for a long time to figure this out should be this goddamn hard need more people like you in this world wish you the best
Exactly what I needed to know. Great explanation and good audio/video work. Thanks a bunch!
Glad I found you're video! All my questions answered, now I begin my rebuild.
Very well done explanation with excellent production qualities. Thank you!
Really appreciate you doing this video. I dropped a pushrod into my crankcase and had to pull the engine to get it out. After starting it today I found something was wrong with the governor. I'll make the adjustments you mentioned now that I understand how it works.
Thank you for explaining everything the way that you explained it most guys don't do it like that and I really appreciate that it help me a lot and thank you for your videos God bless stay safe
The arms for the springs are final adjustments for the govenor but no one tells about that, you can change the springs but final low speed adjustment for the govenor is done by forming the arm that changes its tension on the govenor arm.
Thank you so much for this video. I changed my carb and fooled with the governor like an idiot and had engine racing. Haven't ran it 1 full minute tho so very thankful for this video
Very well presented. Very knowledgeable, as well
I'm not touching that governor. I don't need those kinds of problems. I did have to get my governor spring reattached though and this video was a big help for doing that. So thanks. I have a working throttle now again.
Thank you for the great video! The tractor I bought used was racing even on no throttle so I adjusted the governer as you instructed. Now throttle and idle is perfect. I’m just worried how much damage the last guy did to it.
Thank you sir. Just rebuilt my motor and had no idea what to think. Easy fix, thanks to your simple video
I fricking love you dayssss and I finally find the video I need
This video was they key to figuring out how to "set" everything. I have a 2004 L120 with the 20hp B&S intek and my sump gasket started to leak. Long store short I replaced it got the motor back on and bolted down, hook battery and starter back up and the fuel lines. Fired it up and it started to runaway so I killed the motor. 3hr into why is it running away I find this video. Which was the answer I was looking. A great video one the names of the parts to proper idel position on the throttle plate. ALTHOUGH it's all correct now the governor in the motor does not seem to be controlling the lever controlling my idel, UNLESS I'm holding the gonvenor level in the idle position. I hope I didn't screw up then internal governor parts. THANKS FOR THIS THOROUGH AND DETAILED VIDEO!! Am i going to have to pulled the sump back off to see what i have going on. Again the govenor level seem to NOT be undercontrol by the plunger that contacts the govenor rode that controls the governor lever. Let me know THANKS AGAIN
Very good procedure and accurate I have replaced a couple of gov gear kits also replaced push rods thanks
Thanks for making this video, though I found it too late. I purchased a 2005 Exmark Lazer Z from a guy who had replaced the engine with a 20hp Briggs Vanguard, and when I went to buy it, I noticed that he had to flip the throttle up to half in order to get it started, even when choked. It ran fine once started, and at full throttle, it seemed to me that it wasn't revving up high enough, and it would stumble quite a bit when the PTO was engaged, but it would recover and mowed fine. I bought it for a pretty deep discount, all things considered, but after mowing with it a few times, I knew something was off. I pulled the air breather and choke plate off, and didn't see anything unusual (my first thought was the throttle plate not opening all the way). Then I noticed the governor had a broken shaft spring, and a missing idle spring. The fat governor spring was there, but doesn't appear to be connected properly, or it is the wrong size.
I spent several days googling to find a drawing or picture or schematic of how the springs should look, but couldn't find anything, so I just went ahead and used the parts diagram to order 3 new springs. I also spent $25 on a Briggs service manual, and after looking at the pictures in there, I could have just figured it out myself based on the length of the springs. Oh well, at least it should be running properly after I get the springs on there.
Might want to do a compression check or pull the heads and look at your gaskets. A bad head gasket will cause combustion gasses to enter the block and reduce the pressure differential across the piston. This can also cause poor acceleration and lack of power. Its also very common for them to go out.
@@mbakken11 I put the new governor springs on yesterday, and while I was at it, pulled the valve covers to check the lash. One of the cylinders had valves that were way out of spec, extremely loose. I set all of the valves to .005 per the manual, and now it purs like a kitten, and revs up and down just fine.
Excellent engine control safety video and explanation.
Thank you so much You just answered all of my questions
Thanks this has baffled me for a while.
This is great. I was looking for info on how the throttle body works. Thank you!
Well done..very clear explanation, and clear pictures, thanx
that was very good, all questions answered, with out asking,
Brilliant explanation.
That's the best video I've ever seen wished the ones that show what people won't to to could be voted to come up first when people Google it !!
Terrific video, I’ve always wondered why my 23hp had no choke.
That pretty much explains how the connecting rods were both broken in a mower that I just got the other day.
Hi, Checked compression, New Plugs, checked tappets. When I out 2 springs on, it runs flat out.
If your move the arm from the Govermor you can control revs, you have to keep holding the lever.
when I disconnect the small spring and add a light spring to the throttle I can use the mower carefully, engine runs smooth.
Thanks
intresting ,, no foul language ,, i like his attitude
Thanks so much for the video! I am completeling repair to the same engine on my mower and didn't photograph the governor linkage before disassembly.
Thanks for the knowledge it fixed my problem
This video helped me. Thank you.
top notch explanation, thanks!
You saved me from doing something stupid. I was watching this to find a way to enriching the gas. The plugs are near perfect. And I'm changing the whole fuel line to help flow some. Actually she's running great. How come gas lines are connected by such small connections on tank?
Even the smallest fuel line is much much larger than the carb jets that the fuel will eventually pass through. The line and filter should not be an issue unless they are plugged
@@mbakken11 now that you said that it makes sense. Thanks it's been years since I've done any real maintenance. I heard the lines degrade. Otherwise it's like the day I got it. Was thinking of checking valve clearance. Don't think it's ever been checked.
Thank you so much!! I bought a mower with the vangaurd motor n they had all that un hooked where they swapped the motor. Idk that was how it went, I thout it may be, after a while lookin, then seen yr video n I was like yes yes yes finally some one that shows all of it.
Thanks boss good video now I can re set my governor
Great explanation!
Thank you for the explanation! I replaced the carburetor on my Briggs engine (engine # 405777-0112-E1) and it just won’t start 🤦🏼♀️ I have choked it then no choke open throttle and tried half throttle- no luck… the gov springs are all on the right way… changed the old spark plugs out to new ones…. Still no luck… I’m puzzled but not giving up just yet… also the starter ain’t in the best shape either
Great info again!! Thank you!
Thank you for sharing! 👍👍
the idle is controlled by the idle screw on the carburettor
Great job... what a mess, curiosity killed the cat.....cant mess with those governors!!! ... great video, well done.... thanks B 🙄🤣
I bought a nice used Jacobs front cut mower about 10 years ago, I thought it was a good idea to start it up with the throttle linkage off. Well, mine turned out the same way as his after I simulated a mid-90's F1 engine for about 3 seconds. 😂 Never felt so dumb in my entire life, but lessoned learned ntl.
Great VIDEO!
My throttle wheel had the choke mechanism attached to it where, past the point of full throttle, the choke is engaged. Mine had a bit of dried mud stopping the choke lever from full travel upwards, if I had not looked, I would have never spotted it. Yep, that’ll cause it to be very hard to start. It borders on near impossible to start. That 1 lever!
Was trying to avoid over paying $5.00 (plus shipping) for $.001 worth of wire. I actually did have to bend some of the tabs to get the engine to idle right. There's another guy on the tube that talks about doing just that.
At 3:00 minutes in your video you talk about the idle, I have a light spring that is around the rod that goes from the lever at the bottom to the throttle plate. I have the spring connected at the bottom but I don't know it attaches at the top.
Great video
Question, if the bottom governor spring were not connected, how would the engine run? (very informative.)
mbakken11 thank you, this video was super helpful
Other great video. Thank You
That was very helpful - thanks!!!
i played with mine for almost an hour and put it back like it was in 2 min after watching. next time i might take a pic or two before i take one apart lol
Hello. Great vid. Infomation. I have a BS V TWIN. BUT mine unlike most has a single carb w horizonal shafts. I waited 2-1/2 months for a replacement. I am unsure of the linkage. Are any vids about this setup?????
LL you're talking about is The throttle. I wanted to know how to hook up the choke
Very useful information thanks for sharing.
There is an adjustment of he governor.. You adjust it right or you adjust it wrong. You prefer to say setting and that just means there are more ways than one to teach information about a governor
I don't know what year model this is or if they made a change but I have an about 2015 vangaurd on a longtail and the rotation on the governor is counter clockwise. You will know as soon as you crank it for sure.
Excellent video thank you
I watched your video I took the engine apart did not see anything wrong with the governor.
I changed it anyway did not make a difference any help in guidance would be greatly appreciated
Thank you for your time
I’ve NO intention of adjusting this! What I can see is that the engine oil MUST be changed each year with the grade necessary for proper operation with the temperature range it operates in. For me, that is straight 40 weight oil, for south Louisiana rarely gets real cold temps.
Excellent. I will have a question.
You are a star! I’ve rebuilt the carb on my 24hp Intek V twin (44S877].. Now I can’t see how to reconnect the linkages!! Any way you might show what rods connect to what? Best...
I believe I have that exact motor on a mower at our farm, but I won't be able to get pictures of it for a while. The linkages should be very similar to this video, otherwise you can look up your engine on a site like ereplacementparts.com or Jack's small engine. They have exploded diagrams that are mildly useful. Sorry I can't be more help at the moment
great video
I had already set governor just as you showed and my engine still revs way too high. Just rebuilt from an auction find and did replace 1 push rod assembly and piston but all else seemed tight and when I can control the rev the engine runs great. little to no tension on the governor/throttle lever but the engine in full or no throttle still revs out. very confused...
Thanks for the helpful video. I have a Briggs & Stratton Intek 7.0 which won’t run well and I’m wondering how to adjust it. It always starts from cold, but then the revs dip every six seconds or so and it either stalls or nearly stalls then recovers. Once warmed up a bit, it runs ok until I stop the engine, then after that it will never start again when warm. If it nearly starts it dies after a few secs. I guess I have to adjust governer, throttle or choke but I don’t know where to start.
hey man i redoing one of these rn and this was very helpful. Can you show the orientation of the choke linkage. Or send a assembly guide or something. I'm used to motorcycles when the maker has complete diagrams of everything. Seems like these leave you out to dry. Appreciate it !
Helpful ! Thank you !!
helped me a whole lot thanks
Thank you it helps me
I changed out my carb. Put back together. Start engine and it runs wide open. When I checked the linkage rod for the throttle side it was pulling the throttle wide open or fully down. Not sure where I may have made a mistake? Any suggestions would be appreciated
Ever figure out your problem? I did the same thing
I did. It was the internal gov. I just ended up buying a new mower. I did sell the old one to a guy who rebuilds mowers then resells. I just didn't have the time, nor wanted to throw a bunch of money on an old mower
You mentioned “ a lever going to the auto choke” I have the auto choke and the lever was missing when I purchased the mower so can you describe the location and placement of the auto choke that is the bimetallic heating choke.
Could you please try and answer a question? I was given a craftsman professional garden tractor and it has been sitting for about two years and I cleaned the carb checked everything out and made sure all linkages are correct. Started the mower and it goes wide open and the governor linkage doesn’t move as far as going to idle. I have to push it up by hand to idle down. Thanks
Sounds like the governor adjustment was done indirectly. Need to loosen the clamp and reset the zero position
@@mbakken11 I did that following your video and still does the same thing. I was wondering if the governor might be stuck open possibly
@@mbakken11 if not stuck open could it possibly be another issue
@@bryanslittlegarage5724 anything is possible. If it ran WOT too long it could have damaged the plunger inside - could have skipped the circlip. How much rotation did that shaft have when you loosened the clamp?
@@mbakken11 no more than what it showed in your video
Great video
I got one of these (very used) and when I mess with the throttle, it gets stuck at full throttle, and I push the little arm up, but it keeps going full blast, why?
Same here
Excellent video
Great video. I have an old Briggs& Stratton 22 HP twin cylinder, overhead valve engine. I was cutting and then the engine started running at max revs (much faster than the 'Fast' Setting on my Throttle Control Lever), even when I set the throttle to Slow/Idle. When I start the engine with the Throttle at Slow, the engine still runs at max rev. I see in your video that the throttle is wide open because of how the springs are set. Mine is the same... What will close the throttle plate to the Idle Screw? Right now I have to push the Governor Lever up manually. I dont see any holes or nooks for where a spring should be... Is there a third governor spring that broke off? I am not seeing anything in the Parts Manual that help me figure it out. Thanks.
I have a problem with one of those engines it's related to what this video is. it's not a governor issue but the problem is not with the governor if the throttle plates are open is just a teeny bit and I mean the tiniest that you can open them the engine over revs, and if you open it up Full Throttle the engine screams have you ever run into anything like that before
I forgot to mention I bought this engine brand new and it has run like this since day one as a matter of fact it ended up bending the pushrods on cylinder number two and I took it off put another on the mower. I repaired this engine and it's been sitting on my garage floor for 2 years I finally put it on another mower today I would say at full throttle it runs at close to twice the RPM it should
Great video! My 2009, Intek 23 hp has an automatic choke. The engine takes about 30 - 45 seconds to start when cold. Once warmed up it starts right up. Is it possible the choke isn’t working? How do I check?