Easy Troubleshooting and Installation Of Carburetor On Briggs & Stratton V Twin Riding Mower Engine
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
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We take a look at a Craftsman Riding Mower that is not running right and surging and show how to easily replace the carburetor on a Briggs and Stratton V twin engine and troubleshoot issues you may have if installing a carburetor on these engines.
What to look out for and how to diagnose and repair running issues. These issues many times present as a mower not running if you take the choke off, surging bad or dying under a load.
We go in depth of the replacement process and show the common issue we see with customer installing the new carburetors but they still won't run right.
We see customers run into this problem a lot after installing aftermarket carburetors on these engines also.
This is a Briggs and Stratton Platinum XRD Model 445677-2188-G5
The carburetor part number is 796997
A replacement carburetor can be purchased at amzn.to/3RhDEtB
Fuel pump part number 597338 can be purchased at amzn.to/4dNLOn9
Intake manifold part number 595606 can be purchased at amzn.to/3yBLcCf
If your motor has a separate choke you will need a different carburetor, this one will not work even though it looks the same. This carburetor is meant for units with a choke/throttle cable in one (choke-a-matic)
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#craftsman #briggsandstratton #smallenginerepair #individualizedrepair #smallbusiness #diymaintenance
About Us:
My name is Martin. I have been repairing tools and small engines for almost 20 years. We operate a small engine repair shop in Illinois. We service / repair Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki, John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro Tecumseh, Loncin, Honda, Craftsman, Husqvarna, MTD, Troy Bilt, Simplicity, John Deere, Exmark, LCT, Generac and many more brands. We work on riding mowers, walk behind mowers, snow blowers, zero turns, generators, pressure washers and much more. We normally repair about 3,000 pieces of equipment every year and look at many more that are beyond an affordable repair. Hopefully our videos will save you some money and give you the information you need to work on your own equipment or figure out the issue at hand.
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Please be careful when repairing any piece of equipment and follow all possible safety measures. This video is for entertainment purposes only.
Thanks a lot, very good video. I put the choke wire in the back hole instead of the front. The motor would start using ether but would not restart. After watching your video I saw I had put the choke wire in the wrong hole. I had to remove the carb again to get the choke wire in the front hole. Runs and starts perfect now. Thanks again for helping people "do it yourself"!
Thanks for watching glad I could help out!!
Had a customer who refused to approve a new plastic manifold, he said glue it, I used the right Stuff silicone and it’s lasted a couple of years so far 😮, dang old tight farmer Lololo 😊
Haha it sure is amazing how they have such pricey equipment but don't want to spend a dime on maintenance isn't it?
@@IndRepairfarmers are the strangest people, sometimes they don’t make sense 😢😢😢
I ask them now if they want it fixed or a estimate
I don’t waste my time doing estimates so make up your mind!!!!!!😊
@@philliphall5198 Lol definitely! We always ask people if they want one and do free estimates. Most just want it done quickly and will say go ahead and do it. We call if something out of the ordinary, so they are not shocked with a large bill
Ty for this video... I have this Tractor and its been BEST mower ive ever owned to mow 2 acres and it has 716 hours so this thing has lasted at least 5 seasons...
Glad to hear!! Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair it was running but the red boot burnt onto the positive solenoid terminal and nut seized onto it and when I went to take it off it probably killed the solenoid by damaging the terminal but I didn't have that bolt that held solenoid to the frame and you need that right? To ground it?
@@IndRepair do you know what the part # is on that solenoid
Great video, thanks. I had the same problem with throttle linkage hitting manifold. Now I know what to do about it. Just wanted to throw this in. A 4mm socket fits those 4 bolts that hold carb together, fits like a glove.
Glad to help! Good info for everyone. Thank you!
Years ago I ran into this problem and I grinded it, but was thinking what the hell is wrong, they could at least put a warning label about it and what to do with new carb ….
Thanks this is a great fix. I did have to file the intake for the choke, and it worked fine. This will definitely save you money!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
This was very helpful so I didn’t have to find everything on my own. My intake runner was also warped but I do not have spars in stock. I supported it on steel tube in my shop press and applied pressure to the side. With a bit of over bend and time to take the new set it worked perfectly.
That is an awesome Idea, glad it worked well for you!
Thanks really good video
I appreciate that! Glad to help!
4mm socket works perfectly instead of an e-socket
Great tip!
Thanks will try it 😊
I really love the work you do. Thanks for spending your life and sacrificing as much as you have.
I do not believe I have ever cussed in a video? Not sure where that is coming from
I appreciate that!
Thanks for showing this video it was very helpful on mine.👍
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
I replaced a carb on my craftsman yt4500 26 hp briggs. Original carb was surging bad. So decided to get new carb, took me forever after installing carb to get the auto choke linkage to work at all or even able to start mower. Now I have to give a shot of starting fluid, starts up then rest of time will start fine when mowing. I am afraid to remove carb again since took me a long time after installing to get it to run and I have 1.5 acres to mow weekly.
Hmm definitely sounds like that choke still isn't closing like it should
I just turned my goats and sheep on it 😊
@@philliphall5198 Lol, farmer once told me goats are horrible lawn mowers. He said they prefer the weeds, so while they do eat a lot, they usually leave the grass. I was shocked
Just rebuilt the Nikki carburetor on my 26hp Briggs Intek only to find out that I had a massive air leak from a warped plastic intake manifold! Had to buy a new manifold to fix the problem!
Yeah, they warp pretty badly sometimes at the intake, especially when ran hot. Thanks for watching!
Was it causing it to surge up and down really bad?? My B&S 26 HP is surging really bad. Already cleaned carb, adjusted governor to no avail. My manifold has the rubber orings on either side that seal against heads but I still put intake gaskets. I did notice there seems to be some gasoline leaking down the manifold where the gaskets are . Upon futher inpsection, I noticed none of the intake manifold make contact with the heads( sit flush). There is a small gap.
Should I remove the gasket and just buy new rubber O-rings? The ones on there are smashed in, which probably will not make a good seal even after removing the manifold gaskets I installed. Gonna buy the new Orings and replace without the gaskets and see if it seals correctly. If not i might need to get a new intake manifold unit
Does anyone out there know why both the oring and the gaskets show up in the parts diagram???
Any imput is highly appreciated. TIA
Would you also need to spray the carb cleaner from underneath to check for air leaks below? The way the intake is attached to the carb I would think so
Clear pliable epoxy on the over the seams takes care of this issue
you must try Mopar penetrating fluid for cleaning carbs , its life changing , carb cleaner is weak junk , soak jets etc.....in a cap full enough to cover em , spray it into carb everywhere , spay it Ito float bowl and let it sit for a while or overnight , clean everything out with brake cleaner and reassemble , stuff will blow yer mind , it will remove all gunk and varnish leaving jets etc... looking bran new do a lot of carbs and don't use carb cleaner anymore ,ultrasonic cleaners don't even beat it
I will give it a try! We use ultrasonic cleaner for soing carbs, which works pretty well most times. Thanks for the tip!
Another well-done, nicely described video with no fluff. Just curious if was your mower, no labor, rebuild or aftermarket carb? I personally have had 2 aftermarkets bad out of the box, while rebuilding is a pain gotten good results including a Nikki 4 screw to actually work great again. Just curious, thanks....
I appreciate that! I always inspect whatever I get, sometimes the o-rings are not seating well. I would use an aftermarket with no hesitation. What was wrong with the aftermarket ones out of the box?
@@IndRepair exactly what happened in this video, surging. Both were on snowblowers, one I corrected by doing the enlargement of the low idle jet & that solved it. Other one tried low idle, main jet, nothing solved surging with that carb. Ordered 2nd one & worked fine.
@@buffalobluecheese I see them work many times but always inspect carburetor bowl and jet sizes before installing. I was not aware the OEM carburetor of this has two different jet sizes but they do run well
@IndRepair The D shaped screw that stops the idle from swinging, low idle jet is under that. I count how many turns in, then back all the way out, pop low idle jet out & many times that's a gummed up ethanol spot. Also can be slightly enlarged by couple thousandths with a micro drill bit to reduce surging.
@@buffalobluecheese They definitely get gummed up easily!
That was awesome!!! Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching
Appreciate that
Put black rtv at the warped manifold will probably fix surging
This can definitely help seal it up!
It’s a good idea to add a tad of silicone just to be sure it seals properly 😊
@@philliphall5198 Does help, especially if it is warped
If you bend the bracket that the gov spring is attached to it will get you a good non surging idle..gotta find the sweet spot
Right on
I've got carb issues on my John Deere la175 will the carb that you recommend from Amazon work on my 26hp intek? And does it have the spring on the choke?
This is mean for the choke and throttle cable built into one I believe that is the one with the choke yes
I need help. My mower last year had complete tune up new carb, belt whole9. Was running great till the other day got ready to mow white smoke billowing out the front engaged the blades and kept cutting off. Rewind in my mind the last time I mowed id notice the garage with a strong smell of gas. Examine the mower after watching you tube videos gas was mixed with oil I drained the contaminated gas replaced the carb since there seemed to be oil leaking from sealinoid area, it cranks at full blast rpm still white smoke. Any ideas?
I would double check that the is not an air leak between the engine/intake or intake/carburetor. Get the high rev issue figured out before addressing the smoking
Is it possible to drain that carb for winter storage? I have yard machines zero turn and don't see a drain plug on it. Thx
The only way to drain completely is to remove the solenoid from the carburetor to drain
Best to remove the solenoid but hold bowl in place not to disturb the bowl seal 😊
Bowl seal on this one is held on with the other two screws
I was thinking walbro
Definitely hold it in place with the Walbro, those pesky bowl seals can be a pain
They just had to do away with the screw off carb bowl didn't they?
Yeah, they love to change it up
First time I ran into the linkage hitting I was surprised, I grind it off a tad and it works
What is the intake rubber seal number??
I’ve been putting silicone on them and should put new ones on
692138 is the intake gasket number
Thank You
My throttle won't go back to the idle position with the new carburetor. Like you mentioned in the video, I had to grind down the intake a bit for the throttle linkage to move freely. But when I reconnect the linkage, it is still at full throttle all the time. Wondering if I need a longer linkage arm with the new carb or if I maybe bumped one of the springs out of position when putting it back together. Any suggestions?
Linkage will not need changed, does the throttle move freely if you move it and the linkage up/down? If not one of the gaskets or the metal plate could be put on wrong
@@IndRepairYes, it does move freely. Metal plate is facing out away from carb like you had shown in the video. When I install and connect linkage, I'm able to push it back to idle/low throttle by hand but there's tension from the springs so it doesn't stay on its own.
And it is not resting against the low screw right?
I have the same issue. Checked the metal plste and gaskets to make sure there is no interface. Just as soon as it starts it is at full throttle. Mine does have separate choke and throttle cables.
@@robedwards2897 I would check between the carburetor and intake then intake and block to make sure there are no air leaks. An air leak will cause a high throttle like this
Mine wont start now and I think the solenoid is fried so ill start there. I replace the plugs to the Briggs OHV spark plug replacements. Then I changed the oil and filter.. to a FRAM 3614 oil filter and briggs oil.. and the tractor died on me but when I would engage blades the engine lugged.... So thats indicative of a bad or starting to seize and fail electric PTO clutch that engages the pulley wheel that runs the belt to the deck and runs the blades..
The clutch bearing is spinning when the blades are not engaged also. Have you verified both cylinders are firing?
@@IndRepair you are right... But what would cause 1 cylinder to be down? I changed plugs.. the wire to one of the cylinders? That clips to plug? Or plug wire is what I'm trying to describe? Why would 1 cylinder go down when you engage the blades? Or could it be that safety stuff causing that?
What was the second issue you found after the install of the carb?
Not draining fuel out of the line good enough. Ran great after I let it run for 2 more minutes. Many time warped intake
@@IndRepair Thank you-Can you tell me the part # for the fuel pump?
And intake manifold
@@470mike Fuel pump part number 597338 can be purchased at amzn.to/4dNLOn9
@@470mike Intake manifold part number 595606 can be purchased at amzn.to/3yBLcCf
I just went through the entire process, but my engine is backfiring through the carburetor. I got it to start once with some carb started fluid. Could it be the air/fuel mixture?
Definitely the likely cause. Check for air leaks in between the carburetor and intake manifold, how did yours look?
@@IndRepair It's tight with no warp. I can send you a video of what it's doing
@@Leoji67 Sure lets see it
@@IndRepair ruclips.net/user/shortsjz_JSuW6Qh8?si=tSlZu3dDu6R9ackl
@IndRepair I keep posting the link but the replies keep disappearing
The mystery continues 🤔
If you have a carb that has been replaced and same issue I take tube is likely issue. They warp pretty easily
I just replaced my carburetor because I was having problems starting it without starter fluid. However, it didn’t solve the problem. My intake manifold is in fact curved the exact way yours is in this video, leading to a bad seal with the carb. Could this be the problem?
Definitely a likely cause!
Same problem here, those e-Torxs can't seal the carb very tight, I've reversed them and see if that will hold with the 7/16" nuts against the flange of the e-torx on the other end.
You put in bolt from back and placed a nut on the plastic side of manifold???
Not sure what you are asking
I think I may need to change the fuel filter and get another fuel pump as well
If you have good flow you really should have to but doesn't hurt
@@IndRepair I'll change the fuel filter later. But the Briggs one I bought isn't as big as the one on it now.
So what did you find as the problem with the B/S V twin riding mower? Mind is having the same problem/
There was still some fuel in the line apparently just ran for 2 or 3 more minutes and cleared right up. Why it is important to use good fuel it only takes a small amount to cause issues. The intake manifolds need replaced along with the carb 50% or more of the time I find
The plastic intake manifold should all be recalled, simple cheap wrapping junk
I use silicone on every one of them and let it set up overnight 😊
Does this aftermarket carb have two different size jets in the fuel transfer tube like the Nikki carburetors?
There are two jets in the fuel transfer tube yes
@@IndRepair Yes, but are the same size? The Nikki carb has 2 jets that are a different size!
Very interesting! I have been working on these carburetors for many years and never noticed this!! Good input and catch (the new carburetor jets are the same size, not two different sizes). I wonder what the reason could possibly be for this?
@@IndRepair I believe one of the cylinders does not cool as effectively as the other, so that one receives a little richer mix.
@@richardnoggin1904that makes sense
DID YOU FIGURED OUT WHAT WAS CAUSING THE SURGING?? IM HAVING SIMILAR ISSUES WITH MINE. WHAT PLUG ARE YOU REFERRING TO???? TIA
The carburetor and bad fuel was the issue. I should have let it run another few it cleared right up. Seems I may have missed a little bad fuel in the line by the pump only thing I can figure.
Could you provide the link to where you purchased the carb
We get them from a distributor that does not sell to individuals. There is one at amzn.to/3QZCmTG that fits this tractor
Thank you for the link!@@IndRepair . Where would I purchase a new manifold. Mine also has a bend where it attaches to the the Carb. Odd.
I sure would like to know what the issue was?
Didn't follow my own advice and clear out the fuel line completely still had water in it
Thanks for watching!
Carb was probably really dirty and needs cleaning and jets cleaned out
That’s what it is 99% of the time
Yes sir! On these Nikki carbs the gaskets are always needing replaced too
When I put my carb back on, the pin that controls the choke kept it in the open position. When I manually hold the choke wide open with my hand it runs fine, but when I release the the lever, it springs back into place and shuts off. I don't know if choke is in the resting position or when I turn it up (or counterclockwise). Any advice?
It sounds like you may have a different choke set up than what is in the video. See if your original carburetor choke springs back or just stays in either position. If it does sometimes you can switch out the choke body, if not it will need addressed properly.
Thanks for the information.@@IndRepair
Were you able to get it back into good working order?
What do you use to pump the fuel out?
Normally a 12v in line fuel pump works best but it depends on the situation
Did plug fix it?
I ended up having to replace the intake manifold, it started running great then ran like crap again the next morning
@@IndRepair Ah, well glad you got er going, got a similar mower yt3000 gotta replace carb on it, thanks for a very informative video homie.
Thanks for watching
You might want to consider adjusting your camera with it off.
Definitely so. Thank you
What about a PTO clutch that lugs the motor after you turn blades on??
Normally a power issue
Ever figure it out? I'm having the same problem currently.
@@kushbythe2589 I took it to somebody and they said something was lodged under one of the pulleys. Can you jack the mower up and see if all the spindles turn freely? I hit my water hose and the spraying end was stuck under it locked up probably. Cause if those don't spin free that belt will slip off and you have to take the cover off the outside spindle because all the other wheels have those clips to hold the belt on. You can slip the belt on by putting part of it on that outside spindle and turn it left and it'll slip on
@@kushbythe2589 it's gonna lug the mower down if everything isn't turning freely
@@dondon98 thanks for your help, I'll check it out. Did yours have bad vibrations when the Pto was engaged as well ?
Where did you get your lift from?
The lift the mower is on is a Handy S.A.M 1200 you can see more about it at ruclips.net/video/Jh22ftMXKS0/видео.htmlsi=7cUjfKeTmyZvk2Sk The smaller lift I am working off in the video is a Harbor Freight cheapo but they work great!
so my throttle on mine won't close and it doesn't run the best, like the throttle wont return to idle
I would check the plastic that we trim down and make sure your throttle is free to move from slow to fast without restrictions. Thanks for watching!
I have the same issue. Only runs full throttle. Did you find a fix for this?
Man, at 12:42, I lost that linkage . I guess I can make one,
They can be ordered since they are available but that stinks you lost it! Thanks for watching!
i have the same mower but with out the separate chock will this work? sear's parts say's i need BS-796227 and the link you gave has that part # listed
If your motor has a separate choke you will need a different carburetor, this one will not work even though it looks the same. This carburetor is meant for units with a choke/throttle cable in one (choke-a-matic). If you give me a model type and code I can find part number for you
@@IndRepair yes mine has were you put it up all the way to choke it then you put it down were the rabbit is...
If yours chokes when all the way up instead of having a choke you pull out then the carburetor in the description is what you need
@@IndRepair ok great yes mine does that. it would only stay running if i spayed carb cleaner in the air box so i think i need a new carb? or do you think i can get away with just cleaning it?
I can't find 1 vid of someone repairing a carb any more just parts changers. I miss old guys they would fix the old part and show whats wrong and how to fix it. IE real mechanics.
Lol you obviously haven't seen any of our videos other than this one
Those 2 barrel carbs all run stupid. I even changed out the plastic intake for an aluminum and still no joy. I have changed plugs, coils, etc., got to be the Nikki type carb. 389 hrs. on my 2015 Simplicity 22 HP , a terrible 9 yrs. Since B@S bought Simplicity brand, they hung their Pro engines on them. I wish they had offered Kohler's.
Definite like the Kawasaki or Kohler over the Briggs V
Another example of off shore knock off replacement not working right.
I get them from Briggs but who knows where they get them
No Aftermarket Carbs, Please. Always go with OEM. Always...
Watch the video we have on carburetors and tell me that same thing. I used to say the same thing but aftermarket carbs have come a long way in the last five years. ruclips.net/video/PA6GfUcGMKI/видео.html shows you the quality of all of these. Many times carburetors are made by exactly the same companies with just different packaging. OEM's do not manufacturer carburetors (with the exception of Stihl)
Seems in the last year the oem carbs are not any better than a China Amazon or eBay one
Every single one of those cheap plastic manifolds bows like that after about a season. i just use permatex. Why buy a new manifold when it will just do the same thing ? They cost $100 and they are not worth $10.
I usually stay away from Permatex except when it has to be used. In this case I would definitelyagree, permatex would fix the issue pretty easily. Good tip! Thanks for watching!
Wtf, nobody is saying anything, it’s not running any better than it was😢
Lol
Or cleaning it before you tore into it
Did we show the process? We clean everything up well after it is finished with a pressure washer. No risk of contamination with this job unless you don't pay any attention to what your doing
I'm so damned dizzy shaking camera
Yeah I understand that. I have made changes to ensure the newer ones are not like this but hopefully you found what you needed to
@@IndRepair yep. I subscribed
sell your family to bubba and don't let your mama out and you might get a donation