Fuel Tank Replacement On Briggs & Stratton 4-5HP Engines
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Fuel Tank Replacement On Briggs & Stratton 4-5HP Engines
In this video I show you how to easily install a fuel tank on a Briggs & Stratton engine.
Buy diaphragm part number 272538s
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Hands down one of the best instructional videos I have ever watched.
I really appreciate you taking the extra time to be thorough, explain everything, and grab great camera shots so we can really see and hear what youre doing
NO filler! - NO selling! - NO entertainment! --- STRAIGHT forward to the point! -- GREAT one √√√
There were so many right on instructions in this video that I missed a few on the 1st pass. I got most of them the 2nd and 3rd times thru. It was very helpful to be able to stop and view the actual shots of various parts. I would not change a thing in this very thorough video. I was actually doing a chipper shredder and found yanking the wheel off gave me better access to the bottom bolt...but YUK ! getting that one way push lock off the axle in such a way as to be able to re-use it was a pain. Wasn't sure if I could get the part so I did it that way. Thank you very much Donyboy.
First start-up couldn't get the throttle to work...found that the spring at the bottom end had come off; crimped it a little tighter when I put it on again, as I had to disassemble the entire job just to get to it. Now I am an expert on this engine LOL
HINTS: I had the old fuel tank ($90 new) boiled out at a radiator shop and they relined the inside. They say they do about 6-8 (mostly motorcycle) tanks a week there. Cost me $7 for a 6 pack of Krispy Creme donuts and made a great real estate investor contact there. The carburetor was so cheap (under $16) that I just replaced it.
Thanks for the video. The foam inside my fuel tank had completely deteriorated and the engine couldn't get fuel because of it. Using your video I cleaned the tank and carb. My 28 year old roto tiller runs like new.
Scott Harvey - how did you clean your tank? I have the same tank and carb. Foam in tank has dissolved a fair amount leaving a lot of junk in the tank plus rust.
Same as @GreenallFootball - I just came to possess a Poulan Tiller with this exact setup. The tank and gas in it are NASTY!! And of course, now the tank is discontinued. I guess I'll have to clean what I have, but how?
This is one of the best if not the best and most precise how to video I have ever seen. Great job!
Donyboy, thank you for this video, it was exactly what I needed. It's amazing how easy it is to take things apart but I'll be a son of a gun if I can ever remember how to put them back together. I love all your videos. Please keep them coming!
Ive got the same engine which wouldn't run without choke. Followed your video to remove Carb and fuel tank, cleaned everything, new diaphragm and gaskets and she purrs like a kitten now. Thanks for being so detailed.
Dons videos are some of the best. descriptions, audio, video angles. This one is great. I will say if the tank is rusted really bad you may want to get a carb also. No need to fight anything for 25 more bucks.
Great video that has the detail needed to follow step by step. I couldn’t have done this without the video. Thanks
Thanks for posting this. Five years later, it helped me to replace the fuel tank gasket leak on my tiller. Also, I'm subscribed and watch all the videos that you post each week.
Thumbs up! Going to clean carb and replace gaskets and fuel pump so these directions are handy.
By far the most detailed work on this job I have seen. My carb kit came today. I have been soaking the fuel tank with vinegar to remove the balance of the rust(I hope) I removed the sponges in the tanks as they had broken down into bits. Thanks for the video.
Best to use sealer on it also and reseal it 3 times
Wait 5 days between treatments
Great video. I didn’t have rust but fuel filter was clogged. Runs like a dream now. I would have had some bolts left over or poor linkage configuration if not for this post. Hats off to you fella
Thanks so much for posting this. I was having a heck of a time trying to reinstall all the linkage on my tiller.
You have such a calm voice! I was watching this video to see how to remove the tank so I can convert the tiller to propane.
Cool did it work that’s a good idea too
When I watched this, it was 4 yrs. old. It is well done and very useful.
Thank You.
Thanks very much for your super helpful Video, I have ordered the parts as per your suggestion, await arrival, had 20 goes at trying to get rid of the dirt, paint flakes in tank, rust etc, but watching your video, went ahead and bought the parts to simply get rid of the issues once and for all, thanks mate!!! Really grateful for your generosity with details, parts and learning material, very grateful indeed :)
Thanks Donyboy, not replacing the tank on mine but the carb. when the part comes in. Lots of helpful tips in your video to get it all apart. Appreciate it
Great video donyboy! I have zero experience on working on engines and your detailed video walked me through the whole process flawlessly. My 25 year old rototill is running like new. Well done!
Thank you so much for your informative video. Had a problem with choke linkage. Your video pointed out with emphasis exactly how to connect. Saved me so much time and aggravation. Thanks❤
thanks for making this video!
I have the exact same engine on my weed eater tiller and was replacing the carburetor and seen how rusted the tank was.. I tried to clean it with no avail.
So I ordered a new tank and by the time it came I forgot how all the linkage went.. I used this video to reassemble.. perfect instructions and my tiller is up and running again!
where did you get a new tank?
@@mpchief5 I searched for the part number on google and found places that sell original parts. I live in Germany so i picked one in Germany.
To bad I watched this video after I pulled the tank. The twist ties are a great idea. Now I need to order all those parts plus the boots and do it again. Thanks for the help.
Great video ! Just replaced a carb on briggs 5hp yesterday. Wish I saw this video first.
This was WAY more complicated than I first thought it might be. Thanks Dony, well done!!
Thank you! I was able to replace my gas tank and replace the carburetor membrane based on your video. Not bad for a retired accountant!
some times it works out good.
Best how to video! Great job explaining all details. Very useful and helpful!!
Did this very same job. Definitely take pictures, Alot of linkages to keep straight. Great job donyboy.
I saw your post before I replaced the carburetor and took pictures. But I should have taken even more because you were right about the linkages. Thankfully, this video had clear explanations and great camera work. It made it much easier.
Thanks a lot! I replaced the tank of our old Bolens tiller as you showed here. I also had the issue that its intake valve was stuck open, so i took the head off, removed the valve, cleaned all the junk, checked it didn't leak, put it all back with a new head gasket. Afterwards it started immediately. Later when in use, it stalled once when warm. Once it had cooled down, i retightened the head bolts. Meanwhile it's a real struggle to start it (it fires 2-3x and dies, about 10 times, before it finally starts). Then it will run fine with reasonable power, about an hour or half an hour, until it starts to sputter and just dies in the following few minutes. Once cooled down, same stuff again. So, I had before: cleaned the carb as well as i could without ultrasonic cleaner (didn't look that dirty except the fuel intake zone which had some rust stuck on it obviously), head is now tight, intake bolts are tight, spark plug is new, there's enough fresh fuel in it, linkages are all on and feel fine.. I'm asking myself if it could be ignition related..
Do you know if they still have points which could be worn or have to be set once?
Hey thank you. I'm in the middle of this job right now. I'll follow your direction.
Extremely well done. Even I was able to accomplish this with the aid of this very well explained procedure. Thank you for saving me about a hundred bucks!
You saved my life Dony! You Canucks are GREAT
Thank you so much!! need to pull the carb and do a clean.. this is fantastic!
Now this is a top class repair video . Thanks donny
Thanks Dude!!!
I've had my tank and carb off the engine for 10 years... I'm wanting to put my machine back together... your video will let me put it all together again with no problem! THANKS!!!!!
you are the best donyboy. no doubt. thank you so much for sharing
You're a life saver, my friend!! Thanks for the PERFECT video!!
Great video! I have that engine in 5.5 hp but an't find a tank in stock, plus the ost is crazy. I cleaned out the rust, but the little tray built in there for the smaller tube had rusted away. I filled the tank up completely and the engine runs, but only on full choke (Brand new Carb). Can this operate without that small tray, or not. I'm not sure what the siphon tubes are for. Thanks for any help you can offer.
Great video, very instructional and easy to follow. I just needed to take off the carburetor to clean.
Can't understand why some people would give a thumbs down, you could give directions on brain surgery and I'd still be successful lol, great video, exactly what I required.
Kent Helliker Probably all the people that attempted this repair and failed.
Not so, I have the exact same engine that hasn't ran in some 15 years and I rebuilt it using this video and some of his others and I'm NOT a mechanic in anyway.... works like new... looks it too.
Thank you for your video, I followed your directions but I cleaned the tank with natural acids for several days. Put it back together and ran it and tilled my garden.
I had to do this job a couple of years ago. Brings back memories. I wish I could have had seen your video before I did it. Would have been much easier. Thanks.
Comprehensive and very very well done you need to make more videos in such detail.
You need to make more videos like this.
I enjoy your presentation. You don't talk us to death. This one was personal as I had that issue, make, model.
Randy
Great Video Don! There's alot of small things to cover and you did a great job showing that! That lower intake bolt is the most time consuming of the entire project
anyway its a very good description for the replacement, well done
Very good trainer. Thanks for all the detail.
There's quite a lot to it with all those linkages etc but really nicely explained
You need to keep making more videos like this I like that because you didn't talk us to death presented the facts and showed us exactly what to do.
make sure to subscribe
G'day, Don! I've always enjoy seeing the longer videos! (Fuel Tank Replacement On Briggs & Stratton 4-5HP Engines) Thank you very much! Cheers! :-)
Good to see a genuine DB73 repair video. Thanks.
Thank you,
I have set one of the links on the wrong hole
This was an excellent video
Great video. Now I have have the info I need to try to get my 1992 Rototiller running again for the 1st time in ~20 years, LOL.
Good job Donyboy! You have a knack for teaching!
Excellent video you explained everything clearly. Now I have a great reference for when I go to do this job on my tiller. Thanks again for the great videos.
Excellent!
awesome video 🙌, definitely getting a "little happy torx screw driver 👨🎨" vibe from voice and cadence
Excellent job as usual Donny.
I really enjoy you videos, you explain it so I child could understand.
Thanks
Thanks;
I repaired a B&S motor which had the tank welded around, and first I did not see the problem: these types work with a little reservoir IN the tank out of which the jet gets its fuel. It is filled by the membrane pump.
That reservoir was missing completely because of full corrosion. It was not repaired as it had to be, so later I fitted such a small reservoir in it, before welding it again!
Go on with these good tutorials!
How did you accomplish this? These tanks are un obtainable now.
@@phillipsnow5053 first is important to know that this construction is used. Owner before me didn't.the tank was welded but without such a reservoir.just the two pipes hanging in fuel or not off coarse. Now a friend of my opened it, and put a small reservoir i made in the tank and again welded the tank to close it. I don't know if the tank is available anyway. Succes!
Excellent information and editing! Just what I needed, thank you for the help.
As an adventuristic old woman, I volunteered to fix my sister;s junk 5.5 hp Craftsman tiller. Though I truly thought your video was detailed, you made it look alot easier than it was. As a critique, one of the carburetor screws which you tightened, was also used for the control box. The spring is almost impossible to get hooked properly. The intake screws at the manifold, one which goes in easy, the other almost impossible without special tools. If the spring doesn't hold, it means you gotta take out the manifold screws again, etc. etc. Also had a problem with the white plastic float plate adjuster coming off its spindle Last time I volunteer for a pulsa jet carburetor. Had a hard time finding right parts. Got right gas tank gasket and wrong diaphragm. Then there is the matter of the gas tank on these pulsa jets which are junk. Divided into plastic baffles. Impossible to clean properly. Don't know if you could use electrolysis with plastic baffles. Then there is the sponge rubber insert 1-1/2" or more thick that hugs the top of the tank. a real invitation to collect moisture and rust in the tank. I am sorry to see that Briggs and Stratton paired itself with such a setup. I love their motors, but this carburetor.gas tank setup is the worst. Thanks for the help though. Keep up the good work.
Oh, by the way, the tiller still doesn't work. Washed the diaphragm
(cause I got the wrong one). Carburetor not pulling gas. Will try new diaphragm. Anything else I can do? Thoroughly cleaned the carburetor and tank as best I could. Removed and had great joy throwing away the foam from the tank. Other than the baffles, what other kind of parts are in the gas tank? Appreciate a response from you or others. Thanks again.
Many thanks!!! great video for DIY this man would be a wonderful instructor if he teach👍👍👍
That job was complicated, but you got that new tank installed perfectly. The main thing I noticed was the sonic cleaner you have and that is an important tool to have to clean carburetor parts, and every machanic should have one in stock.
Perfect, I will not have a problem with reassembly. Great job. Thank you
Excellent video! I have watched some of your videos before and some other mower guys but this is by far the most thorough job of showing each step as you did it and several good tips on preventing linkage screwups. I have this exact engine on a leaf vac. My problem was a leak in the tank - second time. I was afraid to try a replacement and afraid of the cost of the tank. This time the JB Weld worked but if it happens again I will take it on thanks to you!
No doubt one of the best instruction videos I have ever watched very thorough thank you so much I appreciate all your help like I said great video thank you by the way you don't have one of those tanks like that you want to get rid of do you looked everywhere I can't find one
I've done this tank replacement on a 1976 5 hp engine that runs a push blower. Just as the video shows the repair is quite "fiddly" and there's not a lot of room to work. If you try it. be patient and , as Don does, keep the linkage placements straight. Good news is that the engine runs like a top at 3,550 RPM and puts out "wind" like crazy.. Probably one of my favorite pieces of equipment due to its age and consistent performance. Additionally, even after all these years you can buy any part you need (all OEM stuff). Worth some dough if you find this engine kicking around a yard sale or something!
Jack Fairweather #
Been a while since I've had the carb apart on our log spliter. Your video was spot on with all the little things one forgets about how each thing comes apart best and how to keep them for ease of re-assembly. Great job. Thanks!
I inherited my father's rusty old tiller. I got a new carb and tank a while back, but haven't finished due to all the linkages. I can now, thanks!
I use red koko sealer and do it 3 times
Had great luck and I even seal new tanks also
It’s high dallor stuff but worth it
Ah the sweet pitter patter of a happy briggs :)
So thorough, as usual, Don! I'll be touching base regarding the same parts for a 5hp B&S on my rear tine tiller :)
Great video, really helped me just put a new carburetor on my 5 hp rototiller.
Great to hear!
Thank you we have been borrowing an older tiller and had old gas carb issues. I wasn't used to this type and pulled the tank with carb. Trying to figure out how to get the carb out of tank. I have 1 more screw lol. I have since bought a service kit and will be installing so it will be ready for work.
Very helpful, Thanks so much!
Very helpful, especially the re-assembly! Have a good new week!
Great video. Thanks. Trying to get an old 5 hp craftsman chipper to run. Got spark , won't start. Suspect carb / fuel tank. With this video I'm going to take it apart .
Hello, this is a very interesting channel. I learn a lot. Greatings from France - Normandy
Can you please do a video on your Ultra Sonic Cleaner explaining how to properly use it, and what solution you use for carbs.
I made a comment in another video about these carbs having more levers and springs than a WW2 submarine,lol,you have to wonder when they are designing these things how do they go about it,"yeah lets put another lever here, and a spring here and another clip and 3 more levers under here where they cant get to it, yeah that sounds good" excellent video man,i have the same motor on a tiller like this and although i have done many lawmmower repairs and things like that all those linkages had me apprehensive.
Seems some1 was having a good game of pocketpool, it was a bitch an 2/3
getting tank an carb back on had to undo tank, leave pick up tubes in tank
to get whole assembly back together. threaded rod with nut missing, B/S wants
fifty$ fifty this buttholehole. I made one heavy brass wire, sweated long brass
machine bolt to it, a thumb nit works great. It can really be a pain inee ass but
messin with engines it still good. yup wa-a-a-y to many springs bellcranks an
rods, money makin scheme?
I'm fairly new to small engine repair and one of the first 'no-starts' I had was a BS 5HP. I made it through it and returned the engine to the owner starting on first pull. Carb replaced and tank cleaned. It was a doozy to learn on but after I got through one, the others that followed were a piece of cake. Just gotta do it in order.
Excellent video. Getting ready to do this on my Simplicity rear tine tiler. Thanks!!
A suggestion: always remove the breather tube first, and install it as the final step before mounting the air filter.
That gets it out of the way of the upper carb-to-head screw and avoids damaging the rubber elbow.
Thanks as always Don. Interesting the filter was missing from the carburetor when you removed it from the tank. Briggs part number 691213. That hole in the carb that goes into the tank bowl is so small I think it would be an important component.
@Donyboy73 This is by far the best video on the subject great information and info I am working on a 20 some year old tiller and once I finish this it should run for another 20!!,,,
Good afternoon from Texas!! We just purchased a tiller from a gentleman who showed us it worked while at his house. Made it back to our garden and opened up gas and found exactly what you had. Gross!! Can we clean everything real well or do I have to replace tank? Thank you so much for everything, your videos are awesome.
Thanks fpr the awesome videos! I got real excited when I saw this video. I have a dynamark with that same 5hp B&S engine. Do you have a video on swapping the ignition coil on one of those?
Outstanding video. Thank you so much. What a pain in the arse if not for this reference.
I replaced both the fuel tank and carburetor. Video was excellent and made the process easy. The one issue I have is that when I am at full throttle, the throttle lever walks backward and the tiller shuts off? If I tie the lever forward, it continues to run without any problems. Other than that, the machine works great. What causes this?
Great video. Very detailed. What a garbage design. Briggs really wanted to make these disposable.
Agreed
Excellent vraiment très bien
great job a to z chester pa lawn service😊
Thanks Donyboy for your great video, I have exactly the same model with two output shafts, one for forward move and a smaller one for reverse. I tryed to get the model number but there's no marking on the frame, there's only a 5HP on the string starter. maybe you could help. Thanks a lot
More handy info, thanks
Like you said Donny, it takes a lot patiences to do this kind of work ...
What is the model of your tiller I have one almost just like it and need belts..thanks
Awesome video. I have a question. I got a lose electric wire on this engine. But i don’t know were it come from? Its a black wire with a round part on it. Were normally will be put a bolt in. I hope you can help.
Excellent video! Thanks!
Update... just finished swapping out my carburetor with the help of this video. She's purring like a cat!
Hi. Great thorough video. Thank you! The link for the tank is no longer good. I have looked and am not finding a tank. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
Yes! I looked up the tank you mentioned and the one for my tiller and they are saying the tank is obsolete. Did you have this problem.
Donnie , your videos were a big help in my tank and carb prject. The tiller still won't start. I can now see fuel in the carb so I believe the rust issue is fixed. I keep getting a popping back through the carb. I took the plug out and have good fire. It seems like the compression is zero. I pulled the plug and cover the hole with my thumb and there is no pressure on it when pulling the state's rope. I'm guessing a piece of that has worked it's way in and is under a valve. What's your opinion . Thank for the feed back yesterday.
Thank you.