Excellent, excellent job of showing how to replace a "ckp" (Crankshaft position sensor). Wish I'd seen your video sooner it would have saved my a lot of headache. Keep it up Bro!
You potentially just saved me 4grand mechanic said "You'll probably need a new engine" the code were a P0340 and P2172 code. So to see it's a simple process you just saved me a buttload of head ache I drive a 2012 Challenger RT
There are a lot of videos with a lot of comments on the Dodge,Chrysler stalling issue that nobody seem to know the answer too... Car stalls at random... No codes the majority of the time and sometimes the U0100 communication error code and P0700 Trans code... We have been replacing everything trying to figure this out
I havent come across this myself. When the code P0700 comes up, there has to be other codes as well. P0700 is a generic code in the PCM that basically says "there is a code in the TCM so go there to see what it is". The TCM (transmission control module) would have a code that would be more specific and give a direction to go in.
Torvald Knudson thanks for the comment. I make alot of videos and some are troubleshooting videos while others are the actual repair. This video was intended to be just a removal and replace video. I try to make my videos a certain length so that I dont loose the viewers attention. Including both would not have been what I wanted. Thats why the title says sensor removal. Possibly one day I will do a troubleshooting video but when the video was made....only time I had while the customer was waiting, was the removal and replacement. As you see in the video....the green o-ring stayed on the sensor when it was removed. The portion that you saw in the bore of the block is the outer portion that was stuck to the block and did not come out with the sensor. Thats why when its been on for a long time that its hard to remove and will not rotate when trying to remove. The old o-ring gets dry and is no longer flexable. So no o-ring was left in the bore......yes the o-ring came out with the sensor. Thanks again for watching and for taking the time to comment
When changing fuel injectors on a 5.7L Hemi, do you need to release fuel pressure prior to taking the injector off the the fuel rail? If so, do you need any special tools?
Morning, when removing the injectors you do need to bleed off the fuel pressure. Its recommend to have the engine running and remove the fuel pump relay. Then let it run until it stalls out. then spin it over a few times to make sure the pressure is gone. Then you can safely remove the injectors with no chance of the fuel spraying everywhere. No special tools on removing the injectors as long as you leave the fuel line on the rail and do the repair/swap in the engine compartment. Otherwise you need a fuel line quick disconnect tool to remove the line from the rail
Once you unbolt the rail from the intake.....just gently pry it up and then remove the clips holding the injector to the rail.....if it has them, and then just using a twisting motion while pulling.....they should come out. Make sure to o-ring doesnt stay inside the rail when removing the injector. adding a slight coat of grease to the new o-ring will help when going back with the injectors.
You will need to remove the fuel line and they make quick disconnect tools that you can get from your local auto parts store. I have a large container of wheel bearing grease that I also use to lightly coat items such as the o-rings you mentioned. Here is one version of the tool: www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25043?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-oem-specialty-tools&gclid=Cj0KEQjw1ee_BRD3hK6x993YzeoBEiQA5RH_BIaNZLqir6MqX6TSWjG4UOwXbPmIwoTrC_QMXDq7i8MaAor68P8HAQ and here is another: www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#tbm=shop&q=fuel+line+disconnect+tool&spd=12758153951662327638
Ohhhhh thank you lord for making you you saved me such a headache. I have one question do I have to give the engine a learning phase after you install the new crankshaft position sensor?
Glad I could help. Its not required to do a relearn....it will run and start. But if you have a scanner that can perform the cam/crank relearn it would be great but as mentioned.....its not do or die. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
There is a relearn but its not a mandatory thing you have to do. Doesnt hurt to but it wont cause it to not start if you dont. It requires a scanner that can perform it. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe
On the 3.6 it will be different. Its in basically the same place.....passenger side towards the rear of the engine....on the block...above the oil pan. I havent had to replace on yet but I know on the FWD models it can be a pain. Thanks for asking and for watching. Make sure to subscribe.
Anyone having issues with stalling long start no start missfiring limp mode.. etc.. start by changing crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor. I had changed everything else nothing worked gave up on the car for 2 years, i had no engine codes left fixed the codes still wasnt working. decided to change those and car works great. Sensors were 40$ each, try it! I see so many poeple having those same issues!
these sensors do break when frozen in the block. Noticed another green viton seal on the inside of the mounting port on the block, was that left in or was it off the old sensor?
Hi David, would you share a bit about the diagnosis of a faulty crank position sensor? Also, what are the symptoms of a faulty cam position sensor? Thanks, and hope you're having a good weekend.
The majority of the time there will be a code/check engine light. It may also shut off at times......or be hard to start and then start fine. These are the usual reasons why I end up replacing one of those sensors. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
Occasionally I'm getting a hard start, but no codes. It turns over like normal but delayed to actually start by apx 3-5 seconds. I've never had it shut off though. Does that help to pinpoint one or the other? I've been a subscriber for quite a while but I have my privacy setting to hide my subs. Thanks for the help!
Elegant Elliott Hey E, my 05 chysler 300c was misfiring and stalling, she trough multiple codes. when I checked under the hood my spark wires were arching. code said I had misfires on two cylinders and camshaft position code. I replaced spark wires and changed out the CPS using this video....car fired right up, no issues sense. praise God. 197 thousand and she runs like a Champ.
ritamo68 damn maybe that’s my issue as well my cars a 06 it’s trying to start but it’s turning slow fuel is getting to the engine it has compression. Just turns very slow. Maybe mine has the same issue. My car drives like a dream too just out of no where it happened.
Slow cranking could be battery related.....starter issue which isnt that common....or issue with the engine internally causing everything to be too tight such as bearing failure from lack of oil or oil changes. first step...get that battery tested first.
@@MotorCityMechanic would a worn camshaft position sensor cause power loss, sluggish performance. My hemi has 190k miles, it takes 2 seconds to start, sometimes it will stall from a start when drive gear is engaged. Other times it will take a really long turn over to start. But there is no check engine light. I have an 06 dodge magnum rt awd
Hey, i got an 05 5.7 ram that stalls in reverse and now takes awhile to turn over but still does. I changed the egr and the cam sensor and still have the issues. Do you think installing a new crank sensor is what i should do?
Ethan Roy Sorry for the delay. I don't think that the crank sensor will help personally. It's something that will need to be checked further and it sounds like it's not going to be an easy issue to narrow down further. Wish there was something that I could point you towards otherwise nothing common that I can think of
2007 300C here. Could a faltering, not "bad" per se, crank pos. sensor cause a slight click/tick in the pasenger rear area of engine? I've actually had the click change in intensity over the course of a few moments after starting the engine already warm. I have changed many sensors thus far. The most dramatic change i had was when i changed the engine coolant temp sensor after i noticed a pretty big gap in the coolant temp vs the ambient temp on a pretty stable night. The tick went completely away for a few days at least. This was a little over a month ago the tick is still with me and pretty constant though does lessen with warmer ambient temps 75F+. Swaped coil packs corner to corners have pulled all plugs on passenger side and cleaned and regap them with no change. Changing the map sensore seemed to make a change but briefly.
I havent heard of any noises related to a crank position sensor. Sounds like the noise and sensor replacement may be just coincidence possibly? Hard to say what possible causes may be at this time. It may require removal of the valve covers and inspecting the valve train.
MotorCity Mechanic Ehhh could be. Sounds like may be a timing thing to me with the variations and coming and going with the ambient temp. Example, this morning was just under 70 made 12 mile round trip and parking it the noise was there but slight. In the afternoon after the same trip amibient was around 85 plus or minus apon parking it the noise wase barely audible. i mean having all windows closed radio off and concentrating to hear it. Im telling ya it's driving me nuckin futs. Its not a metallic click or knock or rattle..it sounds more like hard plastic "clucking" togther. No matter how "loud" it is it will dissapear at anything above 800rpm and is not there at any road speed. To hear it at any time windows have to be up and radio off but it does vary in volume so to speak. I have replaced the map, coolant temp,intake temp sensors so far. Relaced the EGR last year and replaced the PCV early this summer. Thinking maybe cam phasers?? I dont think its a lube oil thing as the sound has come and gone with no change to the oil and really no significant change in amibient. of less than 20degF. Previous oil was mobil super blend 5w20 just before i dropped it was about 3/4 quart low and i put a quart of marvel mystery in it and let it run with it for about 25 mins while bringing the rps up and down mildly. after that i put 5w20 conventional penzoil in it with about a quarter quart of marvel in it. Probably a little over 1000 miles on that so far. Planning on dropping it again soon and putting mobi1 in it and see what it does. motor uses about a quart of oil in 3000 miles. i would run the synthetic blends to 5000 and change engine has about 84000 miles on her. Im at a loss
Got an '06 Magnum R/T that I've replaced this sensor six times in the last 13 years since the car was new. OEM vs 3rd party makes no difference. I think I've tried them all. Is there some other root cause that I haven't figured out? Every time I replace it, the problem goes away, so it seems like the crank sensor swap fixes it. They just don't last more than about a year, two tops. I'm getting fed up..... :(
Do you have to replace with oem crankshaft sensor, I replaced mine with bwd brand sensor and it's still throwing same code, some people say you should only use oem when its comes to dodge
Personally I only trust the OEM sensors, doesn’t mean yours is bad....could be another issue but when ever possible....stick to the MOPAR/Cummins replacements
MotorCity Mechanic do you have a part number for a 05 dodge magnum 5.7 crankshaft sensor?? Am not shure if its this one? 56028815AA Is that the right one for the maggie?
Did the 06 srt8 charger have the same problem? Just bought mine and it stalls all the time and since the gas tank swap it is worse now then what it was!
@@gtemplesrt8 the crankshaft sensor is the last thing im trying im underneath my car now if this doesn't work im selling it i haven't driven this car 15 hundred miles since i purchased it
@@karimwhite8689 ive done all 3 sensors and the PCM spark plugs twice now im just sick of it. Damn thats less than I have driven mine! Mine had over 46,300 something miles now has 50,047 since November 1st 2019
I've got an 06 300 SRT8 and I had the stalling and bucking issue. One day it just stopped completely and wouldn't even fire. Replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor tonight and it starts now after turning for around 4 seconds. But I have a high idle at around 1500rpms, no throttle response, no oil pressure on the dash and the dash is lit up like a Christmas tree. Any suggestions?
here's my question I have a 6.1l and it just started to misfiring but no code so I replaced plugs still kept doing it till one day it got really bad and throws a multiple miss code I replaced the cam sensor and it was like new for a week and now it's starting to miss only on light throttle and it refuses to throw a code. code it be the crank senor?
anything is possible but it will take some diag work using a scanner to monitor the data when its happening to see if anything weird is going on. Otherwise it would be like throwing parts at it. Certainly not an easy task when the codes or lack of codes doesnt help point you in a direction.
had my motor rebuilt but used the old crankshaft pos sensor, i heard this needs to be replaced and oil may leak and the engine may stall because of it, im getting both problems could this be the cause?
It could be the cause but I have never heard it recommended to be replaced when an engine was rebuild unless it had physical damage. I would hope there might be a code or codes set. Knowing if there was and what they are would help a lot. Checking for the leak is important as well. The leak needs to be isolated to see if something to do with the rebuild or something that's bolted to the engine. The crank sensor can not "cause a leak" but can leak is the oring was not sealing properly
Evening.....you mentioned an SRT8 5.7.....the SRT8 didnt come with the 5.7. But none the less the crankshaft position sensor is located in the same location as in the video....on the right side of the block
HI 5.7 HEMI is a balance of power and economy. The 6.1 HEMI it made to kick ass and only avaliable on SRT8 trim If you have an SRT8 badge and the engine have spark plug wire it is a 5.7 and not an SRT8 car. anyway the work is the same ,good lock
Evening Mary. The crank sensor on that 2.7 is actually on the transmission. Its not far from where the one in the video is located. It will be on the right side of the transmission and a few inches from the engine. It actually reads off the flywheel so thats why its in that location. Hope this helps. Make sure to subscribe and share the videos.
i have a 2006 daytona charger rt and it shuts off while driving and i have replaced the pcm,throttle body, and map sensor. it still cuts off while idling and then one day of of the week it runs fine but with the shutting off after reading a few forums i was thinking the crankshaft or camshaft position sensors could be the problem any suggestions?
Have you checked to see if there are any codes? I would have to think that there might be if your having the issues your having. You could try a wiggle test of the wiring at different locations and also at the crank and cam sensors to see if you can get it to act up when those sensors wiring/connector is moved.
U0100 and p2172 pops up when it wants but with the p2172 code I have replaced tb,map, and check my vacuum lines and with the u0100 I have replaced the pick as well so im left clue less oh and I'm getting plenty of fuel to the injectors
The two seperate issues is where I am a bit lost. Could they be related possibly. P2172 points towards a vacuum leak somewhere. While the U0100 becomes more electrical and could explain the cutting of issue. With the P2172 I would possibly expect a higher then normal idle. For example if it stays about 1000 rpm and never drops than yes we surely have a vacuum leak. The U0100 is going to be a lot harder to isolate and there is no one thing I can tell you to check. I will require alot of items to diag that issue such as wiring diagrams and multimeter.
my 2005 dodge magnum crankshaft position sensor is going bad i have the part but i have no idea where its located at and ive been all over the internet looking
victor rodriguez Victor...morning. I pulled up your vehicle info and found a few things. First off you have an open recall for replacing your timing chain that highly recommend having completed. The recall is P01. This will be done free of charge at your local Dodge Dealership. You will need to leave the vehicle for the repair due to time it takes to repair. Back to the code.....the code P0016 includes a lot of items from wiring issues to cam sensor to crank sensor. Not sure what issues the vehicle is having.....does the vehicle run? Let me know Victor.
victor rodriguez The test for that code has you perform a cam solenoid cleaning procedure and see if the code returns. That means you most likely wont be able to perform this your self. First I would have the recall done before the timing chain breaks which is highly likely. Then see what happens. Another quick question....how many miles on the vehicle?
My 2008 charger 5.7 has the lighting bolt sign on... I scan the car and got a code for the crank sensor.. will the crank sensor cause that light to come on
I am having the same problem, I have changed so many sensors, when I changed the ECT is when the annoying lightning bolt came on, also my temp gauge stopped working as well, I recalibrated that and it still will not work. I have tried to recalibrate it several times, it will not go away, even after disconnecting the battery, my 2006 DC 5.. 7 hemi was driving completely fine, no hard idle anymore and 4 days ago-- bam it stalled while I was driving and will not start again. I put seafoam in very clean throttle body and it started for a second, put in the valve line too, blew out black smoke and no go no start..(only for a second) . this has never happened to me before. only codes that come up are o2 sensors, which was replaced 2 yrs ago... I am going to try the crank sensor and cam sensor and see if it starts... I am so frustrated... if anyone has some input I would appreciate it,, cant drive it to get it scanned again... so beyond annoying and frustrating. any ideas please !!! Thanks !!
daniel noriega really? Dang that suck man! I have an 06 and it's starting throw that code but I clear it with my Diablo T3 but it comes back once I get on it
Good video. Want to replace my crankshaft sensor on a 2006 300c hemi that stalls and hessatates when i use the kick down. Has a new camshaftsensor and ecm so now i will replace the crankshaft sensor. This video sure helps. And f.ck the haters.😏
Adair Gomez Thanks for asking your question. The procedure is pretty much the same. The crank shaft position sensor is in the same location so the starter will need to be removed as well. I appreciate you watching the video and make sure to subscribe if you havent already. I hope you have a great weekend
Thanks for the video...it looks pretty easy even for a woman to do. My truck engine light is on and the code is P1345 camshaft to crankshaft position sensor correlation malfunction. Would replacing the senors fix this problem? I took my truck to a mechanic and I feel that being a woman this man is trying to take advantage and take my money. If it's that easy...I may want to save myself some money and do it myself..what do you think?
Michelle Vasquez theres a chance that replacing both will fix the issue. To be 100% certain you would need to run the correct tests for the code. But if you wanting to try and also save some money possibly (if it fixes it) then yes feel free to try. I believe anyone can perform the repair in the video with the correct tools. Just make sure to disconnect the battery before starting. If you do the repair.....reply back and let us know the outcome. In the mean time thanks for watching and for asking. Make sure to subscribe if you havent already
I'm wondering if this is my issue. My car cranks but doesn't start when I leave it idle for more than 24hrs. I've towed my car 3x in 2 weeks. There isn't any codes popping up from this problem and dodge doesn't know what to do. They replaced my fuel pump twice but I don't think it's the fuel pump since I still have the problem. Anyone have experience with this?
+noobtube1210 I would expect a code myself to be stored somewhere if it was a crank position sensor. The issue doesn't sound familiar at the moment. Its certainly something that will need to be duplicated and then isolated. The duplicating is the hardest part sometimes.
On that engine it is actually bolted to the transmission.....just about in the same position as in the video but further back on the trans bell housing. About 2 inches back from where the trans bolts to the engine. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe.
Morning, no you do not have to disconnect the battery. It is recommend to have a crank/cam relearn performed however after either sensor is replaced or anything timing such as a belt or chain is replaced. That requires a scanner to do that however. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
MotorCity Mechanic i thought that anything electrical, its best to disconnect the battery. Although, i did it for my TB not for my EGR, i got no codes problems. Anyways, on my Nissan i did not do a relearn after replacing my Camshaft and Crank sensor and it ran fine. No codes. Maybe its different for Dodge? ( I been a long time subscriber.)
Disconnecting the battery is recommended but I have found that unless your dealing with the starter, alternator, or airbags.....you wont have any issues. I mainly only disconnect it for those 3 items mentioned. Yeah dodge has had a cam/crank relearn for a long time now. I cant say that you will notice a big difference when doing one but I do just incase so that it doesnt do something strange or set a code. Thanks for being a long time subscriber as well!
It has to do with the crank and cam alignment. It could be a sensor issue, tone wheel issue, or wiring issue. On some vehicles the oil control valve is the issue but thats not on your model.
I have a 2011 Grand Cherokee 5.7 ~90kmi -> it randomly dies while driving. was once a month, now maybe once or twice a week. The wife drives it mostly so I'm not completely sure what the driving conditions are when it dies are but I believe it's only happened while turning and braking (maybe at the same time?) - I know today it died on me while I was turning and braking trying to beat a red light and that almost caused an accident!!! Never throws a code. Never gives a warning. Never hear a ding or says anything about the key missing (have the push button start) Since we've owned it (bought @57k mi), the idle was never really smooth, even after new plugs. 3-2(?) downshift can be harsh (BANG), especially if you come to a rolling stop from hwy speeds and take back off. 1-2, 2-3 Upshifts have always been "delayed" as though the tranny is thinking about giving you the next gear. Sometimes it cranks longer than normal before it fires up - RARELY it won't start on the first try (both FOB remote start or push start button) BUT ALWAYS starts right up when you try again. Same when the engine dies while driving - dies but then fires right up. It already had the TSB fuel relay bypass fix and I just put in a new exact replacement fuel pump relay (Omron). It does have the HEMI (exhaust) tick which I have to fix. Do you have any experience with this "engine dies" problem and could a faulty crank sensor cause this problem without throwing a code? Originally I was leaning fuel pump but now I'm not so sure ...
Just to add to what I asked (for posterity) - a cpl days after posting my question, my dash display said "key fob battery low" - so I replaced it and HEY, no problem so far! it's been about 7 days ... Granted the average daily temp has also risen 10 degrees but that's only the difference between 50+ degree nights / 60-70 days -> 60+ degree nights / 60-70 days so it's not like we were in extremes of temp and it had died in warmer temperature before. I'm skeptical of this being a fix because I find it hard to believe a FOBIK battery just low enough to not kick off the warning would have an effect on the engine running.(causing the engine to die with no further indication) Locking the car using the buttons on the door handles works perfectly now instead of being sluggish at times. I also removed an aftermarket HID system today that had canbus ballasts (It was on the car when we bought it so I have no idea how old it was) the lights were getting flaky during starting, sometimes the drivers wouldn't even light and you'd have to turn them off long enough for the capacitive system to charge up, so I was suspicious that maybe the cheapo system was shorting the canbus or giving off weird RF noise causing the engine problem.
Hello motor city my can is giving me the code p0335 witch is this same sensor you replace I followed every step but when I reconnected everything and started the car I had the same issues took forever to start and idles rough and all my lights on the dash are on pleeeaasssee help thanks in advance
Sounds like further diag is required. If you getting that code and only that code....it may require using a lab scope to monitor the crank position sensor reading. Also some wiring tests may need to be performed. I would make sure there is no issue with the connector. A simple wiggle test at the connector could tell you if the issue is related to the connector. With all the lights coming on.....I am wondering is that the only code you are getting?
hey I just swapped a 2014 Hemi into an 09 charger and the crank position sensor is different, the plug is different. is it okay to just put the 09 crank position sensor in the 2014 engine?
Not sure if it will work. I would first take them both out and do a side by side comparison to see if they are the same because design and length. There may be a difference between the 2 years that may cause you some problems. I can only say to try and see what happens. Usually a big difference in years means other issues as well. Let me know how it turns out...Im curious. Make sure to subscribe as well
MotorCity Mechanic thanks for the reply, it's the same size just different features/style. just verified an '09 swapped to a '15 short block with no issues. hey, same Charger has a no crank issue. I emailed you... thanks and keep the videos coming!
Excellent, excellent job of showing how to replace a "ckp" (Crankshaft position sensor). Wish I'd seen your video sooner it would have saved my a lot of headache. Keep it up Bro!
John Sells Thanks for the cool feedback. Happy I could help. Make sure to subscribe and check out my other videos.
You potentially just saved me 4grand mechanic said "You'll probably need a new engine" the code were a P0340 and P2172 code. So to see it's a simple process you just saved me a buttload of head ache I drive a 2012 Challenger RT
Awesome! Sounds like you need to find a new mechanic. I appreciate the comment and glad I could help you save some money. Make sure to subscribe.
Thanks a lot I tried this on my 06 6.1 hemi and seemed to fix my hard start issue until about the 13th crank it did the hard start again.
Excellent work and I love the way you explained it make my job more easier. Thank you
There are a lot of videos with a lot of comments on the Dodge,Chrysler stalling issue that nobody seem to know the answer too... Car stalls at random... No codes the majority of the time and sometimes the U0100 communication error code and P0700 Trans code... We have been replacing everything trying to figure this out
I havent come across this myself. When the code P0700 comes up, there has to be other codes as well. P0700 is a generic code in the PCM that basically says "there is a code in the TCM so go there to see what it is". The TCM (transmission control module) would have a code that would be more specific and give a direction to go in.
My car does the same thing not sure what it is wrong
Also, for the others that don't know WHY you replaced this sensor, it might help to share the problem being solved and how it was diagnosed.
Torvald Knudson thanks for the comment. I make alot of videos and some are troubleshooting videos while others are the actual repair. This video was intended to be just a removal and replace video. I try to make my videos a certain length so that I dont loose the viewers attention. Including both would not have been what I wanted. Thats why the title says sensor removal. Possibly one day I will do a troubleshooting video but when the video was made....only time I had while the customer was waiting, was the removal and replacement. As you see in the video....the green o-ring stayed on the sensor when it was removed. The portion that you saw in the bore of the block is the outer portion that was stuck to the block and did not come out with the sensor. Thats why when its been on for a long time that its hard to remove and will not rotate when trying to remove. The old o-ring gets dry and is no longer flexable. So no o-ring was left in the bore......yes the o-ring came out with the sensor. Thanks again for watching and for taking the time to comment
When changing fuel injectors on a 5.7L Hemi, do you need to release fuel pressure prior to taking the injector off the the fuel rail? If so, do you need any special tools?
Morning, when removing the injectors you do need to bleed off the fuel pressure. Its recommend to have the engine running and remove the fuel pump relay. Then let it run until it stalls out. then spin it over a few times to make sure the pressure is gone. Then you can safely remove the injectors with no chance of the fuel spraying everywhere. No special tools on removing the injectors as long as you leave the fuel line on the rail and do the repair/swap in the engine compartment. Otherwise you need a fuel line quick disconnect tool to remove the line from the rail
+MotorCity Mechanic
Ok, is it then just a matter of popping or twisting the injector off the rail? Is it any different on a 6.1L Hemi?
Once you unbolt the rail from the intake.....just gently pry it up and then remove the clips holding the injector to the rail.....if it has them, and then just using a twisting motion while pulling.....they should come out. Make sure to o-ring doesnt stay inside the rail when removing the injector. adding a slight coat of grease to the new o-ring will help when going back with the injectors.
What king of grease do you recommend for the O rings on the injectors? Also how do you disconnect the fuel line from the rail?
You will need to remove the fuel line and they make quick disconnect tools that you can get from your local auto parts store. I have a large container of wheel bearing grease that I also use to lightly coat items such as the o-rings you mentioned. Here is one version of the tool: www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25043?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-oem-specialty-tools&gclid=Cj0KEQjw1ee_BRD3hK6x993YzeoBEiQA5RH_BIaNZLqir6MqX6TSWjG4UOwXbPmIwoTrC_QMXDq7i8MaAor68P8HAQ and here is another: www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#tbm=shop&q=fuel+line+disconnect+tool&spd=12758153951662327638
Ohhhhh thank you lord for making you you saved me such a headache. I have one question do I have to give the engine a learning phase after you install the new crankshaft position sensor?
Glad I could help. Its not required to do a relearn....it will run and start. But if you have a scanner that can perform the cam/crank relearn it would be great but as mentioned.....its not do or die. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
I'll be tackling crank sensor this weekend on my 2012 Challenger rt...so glad it'll only be 102 here in TX...Is there any relearn process needed?
There is a relearn but its not a mandatory thing you have to do. Doesnt hurt to but it wont cause it to not start if you dont. It requires a scanner that can perform it. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe
I have a 2012 Chrysler 300 3.6 I have to replace the same part. Would it be the same exact steps as this video?
On the 3.6 it will be different. Its in basically the same place.....passenger side towards the rear of the engine....on the block...above the oil pan. I havent had to replace on yet but I know on the FWD models it can be a pain. Thanks for asking and for watching. Make sure to subscribe.
Anyone having issues with stalling long start no start missfiring limp mode.. etc.. start by changing crankshaft sensor and camshaft sensor. I had changed everything else nothing worked gave up on the car for 2 years, i had no engine codes left fixed the codes still wasnt working. decided to change those and car works great. Sensors were 40$ each, try it! I see so many poeple having those same issues!
these sensors do break when frozen in the block. Noticed another green viton seal on the inside of the mounting port on the block, was that left in or was it off the old sensor?
Hi David, would you share a bit about the diagnosis of a faulty crank position sensor? Also, what are the symptoms of a faulty cam position sensor? Thanks, and hope you're having a good weekend.
The majority of the time there will be a code/check engine light. It may also shut off at times......or be hard to start and then start fine. These are the usual reasons why I end up replacing one of those sensors. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
Occasionally I'm getting a hard start, but no codes. It turns over like normal but delayed to actually start by apx 3-5 seconds. I've never had it shut off though. Does that help to pinpoint one or the other?
I've been a subscriber for quite a while but I have my privacy setting to hide my subs. Thanks for the help!
Great video. Helpful to the DIY guy.
Torvald Knudson Thanks, much appreciated
This fixed my issue, can't thank you enough.
Awesome! Glad that I could help. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe
What was your issue and on what vehicle.
Elegant Elliott Hey E, my 05 chysler 300c was misfiring and stalling, she trough multiple codes. when I checked under the hood my spark wires were arching. code said I had misfires on two cylinders and camshaft position code. I replaced spark wires and changed out the CPS using this video....car fired right up, no issues sense. praise God. 197 thousand and she runs like a Champ.
ritamo68 damn maybe that’s my issue as well my cars a 06 it’s trying to start but it’s turning slow fuel is getting to the engine it has compression. Just turns very slow. Maybe mine has the same issue. My car drives like a dream too just out of no where it happened.
Elegant Elliott What do you mean by "Turns very slowly? ...I don't follow
I have an issue with my 06 Chrysler 300c 5.7 hemi
Slow cranking could be battery related.....starter issue which isnt that common....or issue with the engine internally causing everything to be too tight such as bearing failure from lack of oil or oil changes. first step...get that battery tested first.
Me too. Just bought mine an its not good. It wont turn over to start
@@MotorCityMechanic would a worn camshaft position sensor cause power loss, sluggish performance. My hemi has 190k miles, it takes 2 seconds to start, sometimes it will stall from a start when drive gear is engaged. Other times it will take a really long turn over to start. But there is no check engine light. I have an 06 dodge magnum rt awd
seems easy enuf do you think its the same location for 2011 dodge challenger srt8 6.4l ?
Jesse Jamez from what I see it is. I would expect to find it in the same location. Thanks for asking and make sure to subscribe.
You are awesome, very helpful. THANK YOU
Thanks for the great feedback. Glad that you found the video helpful and appreciate the kind words. Make sure to subscribe Danny
This the same location on a 2012 300c 5.7?
Should be on the passenger side of the engine just above the oil pan close to the rear of the engine. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe
How or when do a Crank sensor and a CamShaft sensor go bad?
Hey, i got an 05 5.7 ram that stalls in reverse and now takes awhile to turn over but still does. I changed the egr and the cam sensor and still have the issues. Do you think installing a new crank sensor is what i should do?
Ethan Roy Sorry for the delay. I don't think that the crank sensor will help personally. It's something that will need to be checked further and it sounds like it's not going to be an easy issue to narrow down further. Wish there was something that I could point you towards otherwise nothing common that I can think of
2007 300C here. Could a faltering, not "bad" per se, crank pos. sensor cause a slight click/tick in the pasenger rear area of engine? I've actually had the click change in intensity over the course of a few moments after starting the engine already warm. I have changed many sensors thus far. The most dramatic change i had was when i changed the engine coolant temp sensor after i noticed a pretty big gap in the coolant temp vs the ambient temp on a pretty stable night. The tick went completely away for a few days at least. This was a little over a month ago the tick is still with me and pretty constant though does lessen with warmer ambient temps 75F+. Swaped coil packs corner to corners have pulled all plugs on passenger side and cleaned and regap them with no change. Changing the map sensore seemed to make a change but briefly.
I havent heard of any noises related to a crank position sensor. Sounds like the noise and sensor replacement may be just coincidence possibly? Hard to say what possible causes may be at this time. It may require removal of the valve covers and inspecting the valve train.
MotorCity Mechanic Ehhh could be. Sounds like may be a timing thing to me with the variations and coming and going with the ambient temp. Example, this morning was just under 70 made 12 mile round trip and parking it the noise was there but slight. In the afternoon after the same trip amibient was around 85 plus or minus apon parking it the noise wase barely audible. i mean having all windows closed radio off and concentrating to hear it.
Im telling ya it's driving me nuckin futs. Its not a metallic click or knock or rattle..it sounds more like hard plastic "clucking" togther. No matter how "loud" it is it will dissapear at anything above 800rpm and is not there at any road speed.
To hear it at any time windows have to be up and radio off but it does vary in volume so to speak. I have replaced the map, coolant temp,intake temp sensors so far. Relaced the EGR last year and replaced the PCV early this summer.
Thinking maybe cam phasers?? I dont think its a lube oil thing as the sound has come and gone with no change to the oil and really no significant change in amibient. of less than 20degF.
Previous oil was mobil super blend 5w20 just before i dropped it was about 3/4 quart low and i put a quart of marvel mystery in it and let it run with it for about 25 mins while bringing the rps up and down mildly. after that i put 5w20 conventional penzoil in it with about a quarter quart of marvel in it. Probably a little over 1000 miles on that so far. Planning on dropping it again soon and putting mobi1 in it and see what it does. motor uses about a quart of oil in 3000 miles. i would run the synthetic blends to 5000 and change engine has about 84000 miles on her.
Im at a loss
Got an '06 Magnum R/T that I've replaced this sensor six times in the last 13 years since the car was new. OEM vs 3rd party makes no difference. I think I've tried them all. Is there some other root cause that I haven't figured out? Every time I replace it, the problem goes away, so it seems like the crank sensor swap fixes it. They just don't last more than about a year, two tops. I'm getting fed up..... :(
Do you have to replace with oem crankshaft sensor, I replaced mine with bwd brand sensor and it's still throwing same code, some people say you should only use oem when its comes to dodge
Personally I only trust the OEM sensors, doesn’t mean yours is bad....could be another issue but when ever possible....stick to the MOPAR/Cummins replacements
MotorCity Mechanic do you have a part number for a 05 dodge magnum 5.7 crankshaft sensor??
Am not shure if its this one? 56028815AA
Is that the right one for the maggie?
Great video! Thanks !
My 300 is a 5.7 hemi with a super charger. Is it the same as the one shown in this video?
There shouldnt be any difference as far as location. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
Did the 06 srt8 charger have the same problem? Just bought mine and it stalls all the time and since the gas tank swap it is worse now then what it was!
I've been having this same issue for 2 years 😕 🤦🏽♂️
@@karimwhite8689 mines in the shop again for it now! I'm over it!
@@gtemplesrt8 the crankshaft sensor is the last thing im trying im underneath my car now if this doesn't work im selling it i haven't driven this car 15 hundred miles since i purchased it
@@karimwhite8689 ive done all 3 sensors and the PCM spark plugs twice now im just sick of it. Damn thats less than I have driven mine! Mine had over 46,300 something miles now has 50,047 since November 1st 2019
@@gtemplesrt8 dam bro i have a wiring harness to put on it but fk it im tired of mine to 🤦🏽♂️
I've got an 06 300 SRT8 and I had the stalling and bucking issue. One day it just stopped completely and wouldn't even fire. Replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor tonight and it starts now after turning for around 4 seconds. But I have a high idle at around 1500rpms, no throttle response, no oil pressure on the dash and the dash is lit up like a Christmas tree. Any suggestions?
Great Video, I can do this, thanks brother.
Its simple enough as you have seen in the video. Thanks for the comment and make sure to subscribe
Where and the heck is the crankshaft position sensor on a 2012 300 SRT8? Same general area?
It will be located in the same place on the right side (passenger side) of the engine
here's my question I have a 6.1l and it just started to misfiring but no code so I replaced plugs still kept doing it till one day it got really bad and throws a multiple miss code I replaced the cam sensor and it was like new for a week and now it's starting to miss only on light throttle and it refuses to throw a code. code it be the crank senor?
anything is possible but it will take some diag work using a scanner to monitor the data when its happening to see if anything weird is going on. Otherwise it would be like throwing parts at it. Certainly not an easy task when the codes or lack of codes doesnt help point you in a direction.
had my motor rebuilt but used the old crankshaft pos sensor, i heard this needs to be replaced and oil may leak and the engine may stall because of it, im getting both problems could this be the cause?
It could be the cause but I have never heard it recommended to be replaced when an engine was rebuild unless it had physical damage. I would hope there might be a code or codes set. Knowing if there was and what they are would help a lot. Checking for the leak is important as well. The leak needs to be isolated to see if something to do with the rebuild or something that's bolted to the engine. The crank sensor can not "cause a leak" but can leak is the oring was not sealing properly
Already got it remove... but l was wonder if anybody knows the sensor right next to was the purpose for it
Where is the crankshaft sensor located on my 2006 Dodge Charger 5.7srt8
Evening.....you mentioned an SRT8 5.7.....the SRT8 didnt come with the 5.7. But none the less the crankshaft position sensor is located in the same location as in the video....on the right side of the block
HI 5.7 HEMI is a balance of power and economy. The 6.1 HEMI it made to kick ass and only avaliable on SRT8 trim If you have an SRT8 badge and the engine have spark plug wire it is a 5.7 and not an SRT8 car. anyway the work is the same ,good lock
Is this also for a 2006 Dodge Charger hemi
The sensor will be in the same position so yes. Thanks for the question. When you get time...make sure to subscribe. Thanks again for watching!
i have a 2006 dodge magnum 2.5 or 2.7 one of those and i seem to cant find my crank sensor is it the same as the 05 magnum i didn't go underneath yet
Evening Mary. The crank sensor on that 2.7 is actually on the transmission. Its not far from where the one in the video is located. It will be on the right side of the transmission and a few inches from the engine. It actually reads off the flywheel so thats why its in that location. Hope this helps. Make sure to subscribe and share the videos.
Are the 11+ the same?
i have a 2006 daytona charger rt and it shuts off while driving and i have replaced the pcm,throttle body, and map sensor. it still cuts off while idling and then one day of of the week it runs fine but with the shutting off after reading a few forums i was thinking the crankshaft or camshaft position sensors could be the problem any suggestions?
Have you checked to see if there are any codes? I would have to think that there might be if your having the issues your having. You could try a wiggle test of the wiring at different locations and also at the crank and cam sensors to see if you can get it to act up when those sensors wiring/connector is moved.
U0100 and p2172 pops up when it wants but with the p2172 code I have replaced tb,map, and check my vacuum lines and with the u0100 I have replaced the pick as well so im left clue less oh and I'm getting plenty of fuel to the injectors
The two seperate issues is where I am a bit lost. Could they be related possibly. P2172 points towards a vacuum leak somewhere. While the U0100 becomes more electrical and could explain the cutting of issue. With the P2172 I would possibly expect a higher then normal idle. For example if it stays about 1000 rpm and never drops than yes we surely have a vacuum leak. The U0100 is going to be a lot harder to isolate and there is no one thing I can tell you to check. I will require alot of items to diag that issue such as wiring diagrams and multimeter.
Johnny Beaton Jr
my 2005 dodge magnum crankshaft position sensor is going bad i have the part but i have no idea where its located at and ive been all over the internet looking
What size engine do you have so that I can be 100% sure when telling you its location. Thanks
MotorCity Mechanic its a 2.7L
Its in the right side of the vehicle (passenger side) and actually on the transmission bell housing on the side.
MotorCity Mechanic can i get 2 it without moving anything or should i take it somewhere 2 get it fix
You shouldnt have to remove anything. You will need to get underneath however to get to it.
I have a challenger rt with p0016 code on but it says bank 1 sensor a. .is that the same as the one you replaced or it's a different one?
victor rodriguez Hey Victor......Let me know the VIN number and I will check further for you.
MotorCity Mechanic it's 2B3CJ5DT9AH296758
victor rodriguez Victor...morning. I pulled up your vehicle info and found a few things. First off you have an open recall for replacing your timing chain that highly recommend having completed. The recall is P01. This will be done free of charge at your local Dodge Dealership. You will need to leave the vehicle for the repair due to time it takes to repair. Back to the code.....the code P0016 includes a lot of items from wiring issues to cam sensor to crank sensor. Not sure what issues the vehicle is having.....does the vehicle run? Let me know Victor.
Thank you very much for your help. Yeah it's running but poorly
victor rodriguez The test for that code has you perform a cam solenoid cleaning procedure and see if the code returns. That means you most likely wont be able to perform this your self. First I would have the recall done before the timing chain breaks which is highly likely. Then see what happens. Another quick question....how many miles on the vehicle?
My 2008 charger 5.7 has the lighting bolt sign on... I scan the car and got a code for the crank sensor.. will the crank sensor cause that light to come on
I am having the same problem, I have changed so many sensors, when I changed the ECT is when the annoying lightning bolt came on, also my temp gauge stopped working as well, I recalibrated that and it still will not work. I have tried to recalibrate it several times, it will not go away, even after disconnecting the battery, my 2006 DC 5.. 7 hemi was driving completely fine, no hard idle anymore and 4 days ago-- bam it stalled while I was driving and will not start again. I put seafoam in very clean throttle body and it started for a second, put in the valve line too, blew out black smoke and no go no start..(only for a second) . this has never happened to me before. only codes that come up are o2 sensors, which was replaced 2 yrs ago... I am going to try the crank sensor and cam sensor and see if it starts... I am so frustrated... if anyone has some input I would appreciate it,, cant drive it to get it scanned again... so beyond annoying and frustrating. any ideas please !!! Thanks !!
also changed all coils and plugs , I am so lost , love my car but rt now i wanna blow it up ; LOL
hello, would the starter motor bolts be in the same place on a 2009 challenger srt 8??
There is a heat shield that it held on with 2 nuts....remove them and the shield and then you have 3 bolts to remove.
I have a 07 Chrysler 300 srt8 6.1 it's been cammed but I keep having to replace the cam position sensor every few months can you please help
daniel noriega really? Dang that suck man! I have an 06 and it's starting throw that code but I clear it with my Diablo T3 but it comes back once I get on it
thanks alot for this
Your welcome Tyler. Appreciate you watching. Make sure to subscribe
Good video. Want to replace my crankshaft sensor on a 2006 300c hemi that stalls and hessatates when i use the kick down. Has a new camshaftsensor and ecm so now i will replace the crankshaft sensor. This video sure helps. And f.ck the haters.😏
all good looks simple when u have a lift lol but look simple good job.
The lift make a difference for sure......jack and jack stands still give enough room to help out. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe
will this be the Same for a 07 300c 5.7hemi
Adair Gomez Thanks for asking your question. The procedure is pretty much the same. The crank shaft position sensor is in the same location so the starter will need to be removed as well. I appreciate you watching the video and make sure to subscribe if you havent already. I hope you have a great weekend
Thanks for the video...it looks pretty easy even for a woman to do. My truck engine light is on and the code is P1345 camshaft to crankshaft position sensor correlation malfunction. Would replacing the senors fix this problem? I took my truck to a mechanic and I feel that being a woman this man is trying to take advantage and take my money. If it's that easy...I may want to save myself some money and do it myself..what do you think?
Michelle Vasquez theres a chance that replacing both will fix the issue. To be 100% certain you would need to run the correct tests for the code. But if you wanting to try and also save some money possibly (if it fixes it) then yes feel free to try. I believe anyone can perform the repair in the video with the correct tools. Just make sure to disconnect the battery before starting. If you do the repair.....reply back and let us know the outcome. In the mean time thanks for watching and for asking. Make sure to subscribe if you havent already
I'm wondering if this is my issue. My car cranks but doesn't start when I leave it idle for more than 24hrs. I've towed my car 3x in 2 weeks. There isn't any codes popping up from this problem and dodge doesn't know what to do. They replaced my fuel pump twice but I don't think it's the fuel pump since I still have the problem. Anyone have experience with this?
+noobtube1210 I would expect a code myself to be stored somewhere if it was a crank position sensor. The issue doesn't sound familiar at the moment. Its certainly something that will need to be duplicated and then isolated. The duplicating is the hardest part sometimes.
where's the sensor at in 3.5 2007 magnum please lmk
On that engine it is actually bolted to the transmission.....just about in the same position as in the video but further back on the trans bell housing. About 2 inches back from where the trans bolts to the engine. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe.
do you have to disconnect the battery for doing this or doing the CAMSHAFT sensor?
Morning, no you do not have to disconnect the battery. It is recommend to have a crank/cam relearn performed however after either sensor is replaced or anything timing such as a belt or chain is replaced. That requires a scanner to do that however. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
MotorCity Mechanic i thought that anything electrical, its best to disconnect the battery. Although, i did it for my TB not for my EGR, i got no codes problems. Anyways, on my Nissan i did not do a relearn after replacing my Camshaft and Crank sensor and it ran fine. No codes. Maybe its different for Dodge? ( I been a long time subscriber.)
Disconnecting the battery is recommended but I have found that unless your dealing with the starter, alternator, or airbags.....you wont have any issues. I mainly only disconnect it for those 3 items mentioned. Yeah dodge has had a cam/crank relearn for a long time now. I cant say that you will notice a big difference when doing one but I do just incase so that it doesnt do something strange or set a code. Thanks for being a long time subscriber as well!
where is you guys located?
Deshaun Keys I'm located just outside of Augusta Georgia
@@MotorCityMechanic does a 2012 charger have one or two crank shaft sensors?
What code is 0016 on 08 dodge charger
It has to do with the crank and cam alignment. It could be a sensor issue, tone wheel issue, or wiring issue. On some vehicles the oil control valve is the issue but thats not on your model.
MotorCity Mechanic found out Tensioner pulley broke
I havent seen that in a long time......but it happens as you saw. Thanks for the update
I have a 2011 Grand Cherokee 5.7 ~90kmi -> it randomly dies while driving. was once a month, now maybe once or twice a week. The wife drives it mostly so I'm not completely sure what the driving conditions are when it dies are but I believe it's only happened while turning and braking (maybe at the same time?) - I know today it died on me while I was turning and braking trying to beat a red light and that almost caused an accident!!! Never throws a code. Never gives a warning. Never hear a ding or says anything about the key missing (have the push button start)
Since we've owned it (bought @57k mi), the idle was never really smooth, even after new plugs. 3-2(?) downshift can be harsh (BANG), especially if you come to a rolling stop from hwy speeds and take back off. 1-2, 2-3 Upshifts have always been "delayed" as though the tranny is thinking about giving you the next gear. Sometimes it cranks longer than normal before it fires up - RARELY it won't start on the first try (both FOB remote start or push start button) BUT ALWAYS starts right up when you try again. Same when the engine dies while driving - dies but then fires right up.
It already had the TSB fuel relay bypass fix and I just put in a new exact replacement fuel pump relay (Omron). It does have the HEMI (exhaust) tick which I have to fix.
Do you have any experience with this "engine dies" problem and could a faulty crank sensor cause this problem without throwing a code? Originally I was leaning fuel pump but now I'm not so sure ...
Just to add to what I asked (for posterity) - a cpl days after posting my question, my dash display said "key fob battery low" - so I replaced it and HEY, no problem so far! it's been about 7 days ... Granted the average daily temp has also risen 10 degrees but that's only the difference between 50+ degree nights / 60-70 days -> 60+ degree nights / 60-70 days so it's not like we were in extremes of temp and it had died in warmer temperature before.
I'm skeptical of this being a fix because I find it hard to believe a FOBIK battery just low enough to not kick off the warning would have an effect on the engine running.(causing the engine to die with no further indication) Locking the car using the buttons on the door handles works perfectly now instead of being sluggish at times.
I also removed an aftermarket HID system today that had canbus ballasts (It was on the car when we bought it so I have no idea how old it was) the lights were getting flaky during starting, sometimes the drivers wouldn't even light and you'd have to turn them off long enough for the capacitive system to charge up, so I was suspicious that maybe the cheapo system was shorting the canbus or giving off weird RF noise causing the engine problem.
Hello motor city my can is giving me the code p0335 witch is this same sensor you replace I followed every step but when I reconnected everything and started the car I had the same issues took forever to start and idles rough and all my lights on the dash are on pleeeaasssee help thanks in advance
Sounds like further diag is required. If you getting that code and only that code....it may require using a lab scope to monitor the crank position sensor reading. Also some wiring tests may need to be performed. I would make sure there is no issue with the connector. A simple wiggle test at the connector could tell you if the issue is related to the connector. With all the lights coming on.....I am wondering is that the only code you are getting?
Way easier on a lift
No doubt! The older I get the less I like crawling on the ground and having to use a floor jack.
question:
hey I just swapped a 2014 Hemi into an 09 charger and the crank position sensor is different, the plug is different. is it okay to just put the 09 crank position sensor in the 2014 engine?
Not sure if it will work. I would first take them both out and do a side by side comparison to see if they are the same because design and length. There may be a difference between the 2 years that may cause you some problems. I can only say to try and see what happens. Usually a big difference in years means other issues as well. Let me know how it turns out...Im curious. Make sure to subscribe as well
MotorCity Mechanic thanks for the reply, it's the same size just different features/style. just verified an '09 swapped to a '15 short block with no issues. hey, same Charger has a no crank issue. I emailed you... thanks and keep the videos coming!