UV Resin Clear Coat, How to use UV Epoxy Resin
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2021
- This video explains how to use UV resin as a clear-coat for lures. I answer your questions about what kind of UV lights you need and how to apply UV resin.
Here is every video I've done on UV resin:
• UV Cure Resin
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Affiliate product links
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Talking about the UV chamber...."I'll admit this is very Engineered Angler excessive". The EA is self-aware.👍
One person's overkill is another's "just right".😁
@@EngineeredAngler Very true! I'm frequently guilty of overkill ;)
@@EngineeredAngler Overpowered is always sufficient. 😁
The links to additional videos on UV resin, and sources for lights and resin, are in the description now. Hopefully you'll find them useful.
Useful insight for normal people
Glad I saw this, I've had a can of alumaUV in my cart for a couple months. Definitely going to replan a lot of my build/purchases around your advice here! Also, would love to see a production line video!
Thanks.
One of my Favorite lure painter! 👊
Staples is selling UV-C sanitizing units for $2.99 each. The unit is large enough to fit 8, 3.5" lures, 3, 4" + 3, 3.5" lures. The unit has a lid and a ten minute timer and originally designed to sanitize items up to the size of a standard smartphone. Staples also had UV-C light wands on sale; that when you take the unit apart; you get the light bar, and power source for .99 cents.
yea its a phone sanitizer...I'm not sure the wattage or the light wavelength. I think you're better off with nail polish setting lights.
Thanks for the UV tips. I would enjoy the video on production of your lures. Stay safe and keep up the great work.
Thanks
I have been using uv resin for 3 years and still managed to glean a few new facts from your video. Your videos are so inspirational and àlways improve my lure making skills . Although I am 3d printing my lures almost everything you cover is relevant to how I make my lures. In the middle of a production run myself. Always looking for ways to remove a touch point from the process. Very keen to see the video you suggested. Thanks Franco.
Cool, thanks
Very informative, great video . Thanks. I would love to see the process of casting a lure. Stay safe and tight lines.
yes pls, i will see how u do that hard lure
As always found the video useful, will look back for the description list later. Would be very interested in a production line video and the previous videos on making a cabinet but I'm no electrician.
Yes on doing the production run.
Nice job...good info...dedicated early bird & hard worker👍
Thanks again Franco. I pretty much use your process.
Yes that would make a good video
Thank you for your help..
This was especially interesting to me this week as I have been dabbling with UV curing resin for my 3d printed lures. I made a single axis turner using your suggested motor and
I found an LED UV light for manicures that is 365 to 405 nm @ 72 watts. It has a timing function that limits a cycle to no more than 90 seconds. (I assume for safety in its intended use) I have the lure less than 50mm from the light source. It takes about 5 minutes of light to get a good solid cure in this configuration so the limit timer is not too annoying. 😀
Awesome!
Great info , thank you.
Hi Franco, MANY THANKS for Your videos, especially for this one. I am experimenting with clear coat options the last weeks, mainly 2K epoxy. Works, but not perfect already: Orangepeel-surface and fish-eyes. Following Your instructions I started working with poyacrylic as a midcoat, seems to become better. Additionally I have ordered epoxy with a lower viskosity. UV resin may also be an option for the future. HAPPY NEW YEAR !!
Happy new year and best of luck with the clearcoat experiments.
That's a very useful video, I have looked for this kind of info in different channels and from different sources but it is difficult to get exhaustive answers. I would keep doing this for other key products of lure making, I am sure a lot of amateurs are keen to get these info!!
Glad it was helpful!
The reason for that is UV resin is highly toxic and reactive with skin and in the lungs.
Great video I would love to see the video on production of your lures. Thanks
Thank you so much for this video!
Glad it was helpful!
I’d love to see it brother!
Yes on a production run vid
Great info thanks!
Love it thanks for the tips
No problem!!
I would love to see how you pour your mold for any and all lures
OK thanks.
First thanks for all the great videos. I have been using the silicone mold for my lures. They are turning out awesome! I would like to see how you do your mass production. Thank again.
I'm in the middle of a run right now maybe I'll do a video on that...
Production video 👍
Trying to piece together a cure chamber! And trying my hand at hand shaping and painting as well.
Go for it.
production line vid would be interesting
You've probably already done it by now and I'll have a look, (just found the channel). I'm a fly tyer/fisher through and through, it's just what I love. But I love tinkering and learning, I'd love to see how a lure is made
Here's a playlist you should check out:
ruclips.net/p/PLEVBv_zywucRBsqOYuC2py1b3rgDKrsxW
great channel very informative . anything to do with casting lure is great information ?
Thank you. Cheers
Thanks so much for this. I have been trying to find exactly the information you provided tonight. I wanted to make a UV box similar to your "for small spaces" build and it worked great but in quick order one by one the fluorescent tubes burned out (the 9W version with the rectangular base shown in this episode that were installed in the fingernail dryer you showed in the aforementioned tutorial). Obviously there's difference in quality in these bulbs. I then tried an aquarium filter UVC light (cringe) and it promptly cooked my lures. The finish came out wrinkled or patterned like alligator skin shoes. I'm going to try LED lights but the ones sold as part of a nail dryer have an infrared light to detect your hand and turn off after a set short duration so'm not sure that's going to work. Right now I'm back to using the sun but here in Indonesia we're coming up on the rainy season. I'm actually thinking of hanging up my lure hobby and finally start building a boat LoL.
Problems of a retired guy in Bali.
Go for it...build that boat! Sound fun and exciting.
I agree with brushing on the resin, but in my experience the turner is unnecessary. Brush the resin on top to bottom to get full coverage then turn upside down and brush the excess away from the bottom towards the top again and hang. It will self-level and harden enough that it won't drip off the back end. Been doing it this way for years. Much simpler than building a turner, though the project does sound like fun.
If it's working...stick with it. Thank you for sharing.
On the UV curing subject - I always take my UV cured lures out into direct sunlight for a minimum of 2 hours for the final step ....never fails to go rock hard. I use both Alumi UV and the (Wuhan Labs ...cough cough) ...oops sorry Chinese variant and get the same result. With regard to the new lure video...yes please...always look forward to your work.
thanks for sharing.
Hi! Great video! I also use a brush instrad of dipping the lures in the UV resin, just because I have small bottle. But then my question is: what lind of brush should I use because the coating is not uniform and I see brush traces…(I use the same AliExpress UV resin as in your video. Thank you!
You need to let ir turn for a few minutes so it levels before you turn the lights on.
Thank you for the video explanation of resins and curing. Always a contentious topic given the vagaries of epoxy resin. You mentioned in the video that you would attach some links. Could you add them in the comments?
Yes...sorry the edit took me a while and I forgot to add the links. Check later.
@@EngineeredAngler Will do. Thank you.
And I just scored a full uv chamber already made it's the insulation from my weekly dinner order they shiped it in 1 inch thick cardboard with like a foil reflective surface to I have a 11/2" box made just need to make a Turner from some old motors I have laying atound
sweet!
Great Tutorial from one engineer to another. Mid-coating is important. Love to see your production process as most of us will not want to make just one lure. Painting a car has the same issues. Do you use a linear program to plan your production runs? ( just a joke if you are familiar with operations planning.) Any thoughts on using a 3-d printer, it an expensive piece of equipment but I would think in the future they will come down in price.
First...I did do a critical path method analysis for production. Don't laugh. While I don't follow it exactly, it does inform the sequence. For now 3d printers are (in my opinion) best for making the master mold so you can cast from resin.
Thanks for your input 👍
2:22 I swear you just walked past your window while in your shop 🤪
Naa that was my wife walking the dog...but ya spooked me for a minute
VEry informative thank you so much!!!! I ran straight to amazon once I thought I knew what I needed. But I have now come across 365nm 100W UV LED Black Light. The black light in the description has thrown me off. I use the exact cheap Chinese uv resin in your video to coat pens. Is this black light something I should opt out off? I'm just looking for better lighting something that works better than what I have.
What matters is the frequency. They use "Black light" as a sales gimmick.
I bought a 7oz bottle of UV Cure Clear Resin from Total Boat for around $20 the Resin is good but I had to set a lure that I was working out side in the sun. the Resin came with a small flash lite that didn't work very well
I think Totalboats is just slapping their label on the Chinese brand. It should work fine with the appropriate UV light.
Their little kit is meant for spot touch-ups on table tops.
Where are you getting your bulbs for your rotating cure light? The place I was getting them on Amazon discontinued them. I like that yours are also 365 wavelength
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Do the molding process.
Whats your thoughts on MEK as a coating?
If you mean KBS, I think its a good coating but storage is super difficult here in humid Florida.
@@EngineeredAngler no i mean methyl ethyl ketone, we used it & another chem to make 2 part epoxy type coatings for DOD work, i cant remember the other chem but it was tuff & clear when cured
@@wayned5872 You cure normal polyester resins with MEKP as a catalyt (the UV kind replaces that with UV instead)
For 75 bucks a flowtron bk-80d bug zapper has everything for a 80 watt setup 2 -40 watt 365nm wave length bulbs ballast etc.
Have you tried the Solarez thin hard or thick hard? I've found they cure harder then the Chinese resin on Amazon. I still use the cheap stuff for experimenting but when I'm making a jig or lure to use I usually go for the Solarez thick hard.
I'll have to give it a try.
Thanks EA, i just finished building my uv chamber, and im running a 30w at 395 400nm uv light. Will this still do the job?
It should work fine the alumi uv recommended 20w lights I bought a 60 and a 20 and turn them after 20 mins and it works perfect.
You can definitely get it to work. Just remember To try to keep the lure as close to the source of the light as reasonable.
Hi Franco, how many layers of UV resin should I put on the lure? And what should be done between the layers?Thanks and greetings from Croatia!
How many layers depends on you. If you want to be really protected against really big fish you'll need to go at least 3 Coats. But I typically go 1 or 2 Coats. Between coats you can lightly sand and wipe down with alcohol
Thank you ,I'm in cornwall England and have been making lures for 3 months, I've copied some techniques with great results from finish to fish(caught) yeh I know ,I coined the phrase ha ha no point otherwise ,anyway I'm heading to use uv resin,mostly cause I'm impatient but I'm wondering if you have had any experience spraying colour on wet resin ,are there any tricks or tips,just wondering really cool and informative videos ,love em your my top American 😀 and trump ,he's good for a laugh
Dealing with wet resin is a bit of a gamble, more likely to foul it up than anything else. But you can tint resin with transparent dyes and get some pretty interesting affects. Thank you and cheers.
Great video! Unfortunately for me, I found this after a lot of my own research and troubleshooting but I did find it very interesting that you can wipe down a freshly cured coat with DNA to prevent fisheyes in the second coat. I've always just lightly sanded with 400 grit but wiping it down instead is definitely worth a shot. Do you have any way of cleaning/filtering your resin? I use alumi-uv and because it lasts so long, I think there are tiny particles that have dried or cured near the top and got mixed in at some point or something. Now that it's been so long, when I brush it on (bottle openers and rings for me rather than lures by the way), there will usually be a dozen or so little flecks that I have to try (and often fail) to pick out with the tip of a clean brush. If I don't pick them out, that little bump will be apparent after curing. They used to be few enough that I could manage to get them all out before curing, but not anymore. On the bottle openers for some reason, I can't seem to sand and buff back up to that perfectly clear glossy finish (even if I go from 3k-8k grit prior to buffing/polishing). So, if there's a way to filter the stuff, it would save me a lot of trouble. I tried a coffee filter but the alumiv-uv is just too thick (even when heated in a water bath).
You have to take measures to prevent. Be sure you're working well away from. UV light sources.
@@EngineeredAngler Dang. Thanks for the input though.
TOP SECRET Build idea. My Secret Chatter bait! Matt Stefan Fishing. I thought of your shrimp lure when I saw this. Need some blades to experiment with? I've got tiny, not so tiny and like a std size. Every place sells 100 lots! Kinda sucks when guy only wants to try some ideas. I have more than I'll ever use! Keep on!
I’ve had trouble with some of the Chinese knock offs I bought a bottle of the stuff in the small bottle you were holding and it worked well. The second bottle wouldn’t harden, the same brand from the same source on Amazon and it wouldn’t set after hours in the light. The second brand of Chinese stuff didn’t work either it was way worse it sagged all the way to the bottom of chamber and half of it set up. While it’s much cheaper to buy and way more available the alumi uv is the same everytime. I prefer to get it if I can catch it in stock! And that’s a whole different challenge.
Absolutely. If you're experiencing that kind of variability, definitely go with what you can count on.
The batch of Chinese UV resin I have is working fine, it sets up hard and clear - no problem. I was concerned with process control of the Chinese UV resin and you have just confirmed that my opting for the more expensive Alumi-UV for my lures was a good choice. Thanks for posting!
What was the issue with the $200 uv cure that is different than the other uv resins? I was just looking at there site too you aren’t kidding how expensive it can go depending on the application. My baits do not need to be FDA compliant lol
This resin just needs a lot of wattage to set. It's tough for me to get the level of watt density needed.
What type of reflective film are you using inside your UV Lure turning box? How much UV wattage do you need inside the chamber?
It's a reflective self sticking film. My chamber has 72 Watts
How does the uv shine compare to the east coast epoxy
There is a very slight difference and I think that only lure makers could tell. East coast has a slightly glassier finish.
I got my uv resin amazing stuff thank you for the videos I have a question about the polyacrylic when I clean the mid coat with denatured alcohol it takes the shine away like it’s removing poly is there anything to clean with that won’t do that thanks
Is True Coat epoxy UV activated?
Thank you .
The only True Coat epoxy I know of is 2 part...therefore not UV cured.
i just learned something else i put true coat i not mix right it wouldnt dry i dipped in UV to see what would happen the UV WOULD NOT CURE i was like that is wild right there
Did you say you cast with UV resin?
Yes..I cast 3-d eyes but, I'm working on a technique to cast lures as well.
I’ve found almost all bug zapper lights are 365
I thought I would just drop this in for you and your subscribers on what I use for making heads on streamer flies. To cover bodies and a host of other stuff. I am pretty sure it comes from China. It is a 3D Printing UV Sensitive Resin. Much cheaper than the likes of Loons, or Solarez. I have no idea weather or not you can purchase it in the USA. You just never what's on the market these days.. Love your video's Pal.
Thanks, and yes I have looked into the UV set printer resin. It is good stuff and available. I don't use it because it is sold in somewhat large quantities and I'm afraid of shelf life issues. Good tip though!
i keep telling people them germ lights is not strong enough for the resin that what everyone is buying
I can offer the most valuable piece of advice about UV resin that anyone can use… It’s JUNK! stays tacky, fogs over, reacts negatively with most acrylic inks, chips and cracks/poor durability, doesn’t provide UV protection for paint and goes on way too thick for fine detail work, and that’s not to mention the amount of time it takes to brush or dip each individual piece of the bait.. good luck if you make a 4 piece bait. I’ve tried every brand I could get my hands on and never found a reliable, commercial use for it.. more of a hobbyist application
Your doing something wrong temp humidity
Light wavelength cure time poor quality resin
Been using alumiuv for years and never any problems
With my experience using solarez I would agree with the fragility. Also seems to have a weird reaction to stickers or foil.
I don't think any cleat has UV protectant. Your have to apply that on top of your paint before clear. I use the entire Createx Wicked line of paints... maybe try more research? There are many YT videos showing people dip and brush on camera. I just thought too... adding the 4050 (UV protectant from Createx) after paint should protect your paints from reacting with UV clear. You have understand that different solvent based clears react with waterbased paint.