SLR Lenses on Bolex H16 16mm / 50mm f1.8 & 28mm f2.8 / Zoom Lens Test / Nikon to C Mount
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 июл 2024
- #BolexH16Reflex #16mmFilmTests #NikonSLR
Testing some old school Nikon SLR lenses on my Bolex H16 Reflex with a roll of Plus-X 7231.
Lenses used:
Nikon 50mm f/1.8
Nikon 28mm f/2.8
Vivitar 70-210mm f/2.8-4 Zoom Lens
Adapter: Fotasy Nikon to C Mount
Music: Allégro by Emmit Fenn
Please don't forget to Like, Subscribe & leave me a Comment! Thanks!
#ExperimentWithFilm #16mmFilmmaking #16mmFilmmaker #FilmIsNotDead #ShootFilm 
Кино
![CENTRAL CEE - GEN Z LUV [VERTICAL VIDEO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VIbidJm9q34/mqdefault.jpg)
Finding videos like this on RUclips is why I love the internet. I'm working on a story with one of the characters using this type of camera and it's just amazing videos like this are available online and I can learn about it even though I live in a tiny town, in the middle of nowhere. Thank you so much for making this detailed video! Truly amazing and very informative.
Wow, thanks so much for your kind words (and for watching)! I really appreciate it!!
Thanks for this one, I’m on the hunt for comparison tests, containing both interior and exteriors exposures, between old classic glass like a Nikkor Micro 55 f/2.8 or various Takumar gems.
You’ve got me subscribed sir. Looking forward to more!
Thanks so much!!
You are getting light going backwards through the viewfinder. If you take your eye off the viewfinder cover the viewfinder up or it will do what you are seeing.
Yeah, you simply let the sun shine into your reflex finder, clearly to be seen from your video. You would only have had to flip the finder dowser lever. For further technical assistance just let me know. E-mail alert from here installed
Thanks, SW!
Concerning your Bolex check your light seal on the inside of the film door. If it's worn or not there at all then buy some black "Paper Felt" (some is available with one side adhesive) cut then strips then apply that in the inside of the film door (around the far outer area). Hope this helps.
~Paul Morbid~
Thanks, Paul!!
Right on man. You're very welcome.
Do you put gaffer tape all around the door? I had the same issue with my Arriflex 16s, taper the entire seam and next roll was clean, no leaks. Great episode by the way.
Hey Dom, yes, I taped the heck out of the film door all the way around with black gaffer's tape. I thought for sure that would have taken care of it. I'm thinking it's either the viewfinder (I took it off and all the foam inside is rotted away) or the lens area. I guess more tests are in my future. Thanks for watching, great to hear from you!
I just received the same adapter from eBay, but unfortunately it's incompatible with my Bell and Howel 627 because the central handle of the lens turret plate interferes . Greetings from Rome, Italy.
Greetings!! That can be an issue unfortunately with some adapters :(
Just a quick comment: have a super 16 modded Krasnogorsk-3 myself and I love it. Fixed all light leaks and some typical issues, so if you need any humble advice ( I already successfully walked fellow film buffs through the necessary steps to turn it into a mean machine), not that I'm the expert, but please feel free to ask.
Thanks a million, Christian! I'm going to run a roll of film through it and see just how bad it leaks, but I'm sure I'll be leaning on you for help. Thanks again!
@@Filmboy24 just make sure you seal all around the little black box inside which is the footage counter. I learned the hard way that it leaks all around. Once sealed with black tape: 100% light tight. Highly recommended: take out the loop formers. Please trust me. Writing from my cell phone so I am unable to post Links. Please check NCS products how to disassemble and to assemble the K3 ( to remove loop formers and also to replace the gate). The K-3 also tends to run a bit too fast. Without loop formers you can run tests with loops inside the camera to calibrate the frame rate knob. Still didn't do it, but I will use a loop of 24 frames, mark one of them with an X. Then I will run my metronome app at exactly 60bpm (1 click per second), adjust and we will be golden. Also: the wind up part (blade) can become loose and you won't be able to wind up. This of course, according to Murphy's law, happens always in the middle of a shoot. No problem though, just tighten the screw at the center. You can use a pair of scissors in lieu of the right tool. Ask me how I found out :) Hope this helps. Good luck!!!
@@christianschonberger9695 WOW, thanks so much for all the tips! You're trying to get me off and running in the right direction off the bat! Luckily, the previous owner had already removed the loop formers, so I don't have to worry about that. Did you just mask off the footage counter box with some black gaffer's tape? I'd love to hear more about calibrating the fps to be at least close to correct whenever you get around to doing it on yours. Thanks again!!
@@Filmboy24 yes: black gaffer tape all around the footage counter box inside, also where it meets the baffle plate. I even tape over the number outside and only lift the tape to take a peak when I need.
My pleasure. Always very happy to help a fellow film buff to the best of my knowledge. Seen a LOT of misleading and plain wrong comments about film cameras on RUclips. My sources of information are always professionals who actually work with film cameras. Doing this for decades. I will either reactivate and continue my old channel or open a new one. Need to sort out a few things first, but it will happen. Please feel free to zap me an email: whenever you like: christianschonberger61@gmail.com. .
When exposing, do you need to do some calculations for the f-stop since they are 35mm film lens going over 16mm ?
I just meter exactly as I would with any other lens. That seems to get me in the right ballpark.
You might have lightleak through your eyepiece . Try filming with it closed by shutting the top tube and focussing with side viewfinder .
It’s me again I thought the light you mentioned actually came and went and one time it was real light on the right side. Maybe that means it’s coming from the different lenses, that just means I don’t know. Your part as host was great as usual.
You know, your guess might be right on the money, Pop!
Curious what kind of tripod this is? On the hunt for that and the matte box for my h16 rex2
This particular one is a P&B Model #1110. It's an older one but pretty heavy duty, which I like a lot.
What is the flat base plate you have on the bottom of the Bolex?
It's actually called a "Flat Base" for the Bolex H16. I picked it up on eBay a couple years ago.
Mike maybe you can help--I have Bolex EBM and I'm looking to adapta micro four thirds lenses to the Bolex Bayonet mount. Do you know where to find these type of adapters?
That's a great question. I have never personally seen one of those adapters, but if they exist, the folks over at Du-All camera would know. I would give them a call or email.
I dont have a reflex bolex. Will that mount work? (Noob question i know)
Hi Cailin, not a bad question at all. Yes, this is a standard C-mount adapter, which will also fit the non-relex Bolex cameras.
I’m thinking of buying a Bolex, sold mine YEARS ago! I need one for a trip to Japan, just think that a Bolex will be more convenient that my Arriflex with the battery and charger.... what I’m wondering is do you think that my Arri standard mount lens combined with a Arri to C mount adapter would work on a Bolex Rex? Can’t find any info anywhere but saw many adapters for sale...were they made for non reflex Bolex?
Good idea on the Bolex! Seems like it would be so much more hassle free...crank and go.
Funny that you mention the adapter, I have been looking since the day I got my Arri for lens adapters. I really want to try my lenses on my Bolex (or others on my Arri), and I have had very little luck on anything. I've seen Arri Standard to Micro 4/3 and Arri Bayonet to C-mount, but beyond that...nothing. I would love to look at the adapter(s) you've found because I would also like to know the answer to your questions.
@@Filmboy24 Du-All in New York have 3 different types, here’s the link, buy one and make a video, because there’s no info on that anywhere!! You’d be the first :) duallcamera.com/store/MountsandAdapters.htm
@@domgrimard2088 How did I never see that? Thanks!
@@Filmboy24 you’re welcome man! And if you do end up getting one and making test with it, try as many lenses as possible with different aperture. I read that non reflex lenses tend to get soft wide open if they’re used on a rex Bolex due to the prisms inside. Really wish I can just use both my Angenieux 12-120 and 5.9mm on a Bolex using that adapter.
@@domgrimard2088 I will definitely do a lot of testing if I decide to grab one. Thanks again!!
Can I get some information about your bolex pedestal plate? I want my bolex to stand upright like you
Sure, it's called a Bolex Flat Base and they pop up on Ebay from time to time.
@@Filmboy24 thank you so much!
@12:14 interesting light leak there in the top left. Its not in the edge of the frame, its offset a bit. That might be a clue...
Yeah, that's pretty strange. I kinda thought it was just a glare off the side of the lens but I really don't know.
what a cool, no frills tripod you shoot on! i know this is an old video but do you remember what brand it is?
Absolutely, it's still one of my favorite, go to tripods. It's old but very strong. It's a P&B Professional, Model 1110. Like you said, it's no frills, not fluid but very strong and reliable.
@@Filmboy24 thank you good sir, it struck me as strong as well!
Checked you bolex footage. I know very little about the bolex. I have seen footage with white light and that was because a lens was used on a reflex model that wasn't specific for the reflex bolexes, such as the Kern Switar. You might want to check on bolex forums or groups. Just my 2c, I might be wrong.
Thanks Christian!
Fortunately this is not the case :) It is true that RX-lenses correct for errors caused by the Bolex prism when using shorter lenses, but this kind of issue is not caused by that. However, it is possible that with the larger image circle of SLR lenses some light bounces within the C-mount adapter. It could cause issues like this, especially if there is no mattebox or shade to control flares. But I'd start by looking for light leaks; in my ACL there was a hole in the front and the results were pretty similar. As the prism is before the shutter in Bolex, it is very plausible that light has come in than way.
@@heikkirepo1479, Thanks very much for the info!!
The 50 looked like it had less flashing than the other 2, Also how far off is the focus distances
You're right about the 50mm Barry, but no idea why. Hard to say on the focal distances but they're clearly off. I think my next tests will be more controlled (measurements, etc.). I was basically trying to see if I could get an image first.
@@Filmboy24 kinda figured that. While checking my H16 that's been in storage for several years and Switars and Yvars have mold and the viewfinder does too. Nothing in the prism as far as my old eyes can tell. I may try this with my Canon lenes. Have you seen all of the still photographers on RUclips or using C-mount lenes on their SLR's?
Barry Steinlage, dust it off and give it a go. I have not seen the guys using C-mount lenses but now I’m intrigued. I’ll have to check some out.
I think its view finder. You’re supposed to cover it if you take your eye off.
Most of the time I flip the eyepiece cover lever when not filming but I may have not on a couple shots for sure.
Hmmm. Maybe I’ll save some $$$ trying one of these zoom lenses for my Bolex instead of spending hundreds for Switar lenses?
Well, there are definitely some issues with using these old SLR lenses on a Bolex but they're great for playing around for sure!!
@@Filmboy24 what about lenses for early video cameras?
@@oldradiosnphonographs I just realized, if your Bolex is non-reflex, these lenses will probably work pretty well. Bolex made RX (reflex) and normal lenses for their Bolex cameras. The biggest problem with non-RX lenses is something called spherical aberration. It has to do with the contour of the glass and the resulting picture is prone to edge blur. This happens only in reflex models due to the additional light reflecting through the reflex viewing system.
@@Filmboy24 I've read that that spherical aberration problem with non-RX lenses goes away if you stop down the lens a bit.
@@sbrnAK Yes, I've also read that somewhere around f/8 is the sweet spot. That'll be my next test!!
Hey Mike
Just saying hello Keith Kuhn
KEITH KUHN, hey buddy.
@@Filmboy24
You did good on myVegas footage buddy.
U Da Man
Spherical aberration my friend, you wont be able to achieve sharp focus with non RX glass on a reflex.
Thank you for the info, I really appreciate it!!