Processing issue. Constant agitation is the best you can do, it brings best evenness within a roll you develop and you can squeeze your bath out. The Canon 50-1.4 is a good lens. The Berthiot 10 is also nice, although it has iris mechanics less service-friendly than desirable. The Wollensak 17 is a triplet, just keep it clean and busy. It performs best behind a yellow filter. To come back to the cloudy image, I think your bath was either not well mixed (dissolved in water) or exhausted or contaminated. S.
I only have a non reflex model from 1957, but I gotta say I’ve tested the Bolex and 2 of my Bell and Howell cameras with a dummy 16mm roll and I gotta say the Bolex is my favorite performance wise. The two bell and Howell’s were ok but the Bolex loads film and just runs very smoothly. I’m SO getting a reflex model if one pops up on eBay for under $1000 (good luck on that lol) .
Thank you!! Yes, I love my Bolex Reflex, though I now wish I had a later model with the brighter viewfinder (always something, isn't it?). It does seem like they're getting more and more expensive, sadly. I'm sure one will pop up eventually, just have to be vigilant :)
@@Filmboy24 it will take a bit to save, but getting approval from my family to spend the change to get one is Gonna be the hardest part. (Food and bills come first of course) They just don’t get my hobbies.
Ah yes. The great Bolex H16 series. I’m still getting my 1957 Non reflex Supreme model together for a new life in the 2020s…I would love a reflex model but trying to find one that’s not $1000+ is proving to be quite difficult. I’m hoping the day a Reflex model shows up for sale without lenses (I will provide my own over time) but that day will probably many months in the future…but for now I got this non reflex model for $200 I’m slowly over time adding the lenses I need. (In fact I had to order a different door because the side viewfinder lens I ordered didn’t fit) I just prefer to buy camera bodies cheap and Frankenstein them together to get a complete one. When you have very little funds like me time and patience is a virtue.
This looks like a lab problem rather than a light leak. Take a look at the left side of the frame and see how the fogging moves. If it was a light leak it would be more constant.
I think you're right Ted, and since I'm my own lab, I find it even more probable. Still working on some solutions to fix it in the future. Thanks for watching!!
50mm is very good for indoor portraits. Light may have gotten into the camera through the filter slot, or the eyepiece, or piping through liquids while loading chemicals and dumping them during processing, or a crack in the edge of the door...
Yes, I love using 50mm lenses for portraits! I'm almost certain it has to do with my processing technique on this particular roll. I mixed things up a bit, lesson learned. Thanks for the ideas.
Thanks Moe, that was one of my first thoughts actually. I didn't close it every single time I removed my eye, however I did when I remembered, which was probably half the time. I'm really starting to lean toward the processing.
Love your videos! 7222 is one of my favourite b&w films. I guess the fogging was caused by something in the processing since the edge of the frame can be seen neatly. Anyway, my guess is as good as the next one.
Thank you, and I think you're right, I've used that Bolex many times and never had a problem. Gonna change up a few things next time and see how it goes.
That's an excellent question, and honestly, I have no idea. I see no reason why it couldn't be, however the makeup of the film may differ from that of actual reversal film so I'm kinda just guessing.
@@Filmboy24 I have some film left over from my project, in case someone has the same question. I plan on using potassium dichromate sulfuric acid for the bleach and sodium sulfite for the clearing agent. Through trial and error I will get the time and answer thanks for replying!
@@Filmboy24 I got sodium sulfate but I need sodium sulfide for a clearing agent I also bought some glacial acetic acid I propose to add that to the fixture since it is the main ingredient in fixer I have tons of bleach. I’m still figuring out if I should do interviews silently or strap my camera to my motorcycle. I’m going question of what to shoot. It’s going to be good I got a find the right thing to focus on over and over. Like the photographer that takes the photo over and over again year after year. A little tangent sorry
Processing issue. Constant agitation is the best you can do, it brings best evenness within a roll you develop and you can squeeze your bath out. The Canon 50-1.4 is a good lens. The Berthiot 10 is also nice, although it has iris mechanics less service-friendly than desirable. The Wollensak 17 is a triplet, just keep it clean and busy. It performs best behind a yellow filter. To come back to the cloudy image, I think your bath was either not well mixed (dissolved in water) or exhausted or contaminated. S.
I only have a non reflex model from 1957, but I gotta say I’ve tested the Bolex and 2 of my Bell and Howell cameras with a dummy 16mm roll and I gotta say the Bolex is my favorite performance wise. The two bell and Howell’s were ok but the Bolex loads film and just runs very smoothly. I’m SO getting a reflex model if one pops up on eBay for under $1000 (good luck on that lol) .
Thank you!! Yes, I love my Bolex Reflex, though I now wish I had a later model with the brighter viewfinder (always something, isn't it?). It does seem like they're getting more and more expensive, sadly. I'm sure one will pop up eventually, just have to be vigilant :)
@@Filmboy24 it will take a bit to save, but getting approval from my family to spend the change to get one is Gonna be the hardest part. (Food and bills come first of course) They just don’t get my hobbies.
@@oldradiosnphonographs Hehe, believe me, I do know the feeling!!
Ah yes. The great Bolex H16 series. I’m still getting my 1957 Non reflex Supreme model together for a new life in the 2020s…I would love a reflex model but trying to find one that’s not $1000+ is proving to be quite difficult. I’m hoping the day a Reflex model shows up for sale without lenses (I will provide my own over time) but that day will probably many months in the future…but for now I got this non reflex model for $200 I’m slowly over time adding the lenses I need. (In fact I had to order a different door because the side viewfinder lens I ordered didn’t fit) I just prefer to buy camera bodies cheap and Frankenstein them together to get a complete one. When you have very little funds like me time and patience is a virtue.
This looks like a lab problem rather than a light leak. Take a look at the left side of the frame and see how the fogging moves. If it was a light leak it would be more constant.
I think you're right Ted, and since I'm my own lab, I find it even more probable. Still working on some solutions to fix it in the future. Thanks for watching!!
Loved that footage Mike!! 🎞
Light can get into the viewfinder and "fog" the film. If 3 L of developer were used more even developing would result IMHO.
2:00 😆
😂😂
Looked like real old footage, neat looking, poling place, not so much. Nice job Mike
50mm is very good for indoor portraits. Light may have gotten into the camera through the filter slot, or the eyepiece, or piping through liquids while loading chemicals and dumping them during processing, or a crack in the edge of the door...
Yes, I love using 50mm lenses for portraits! I'm almost certain it has to do with my processing technique on this particular roll. I mixed things up a bit, lesson learned. Thanks for the ideas.
It looks like light was leaking through the eyepiece. Did you close it while filming or did you look through the viewfinder the entire time?
Thanks Moe, that was one of my first thoughts actually. I didn't close it every single time I removed my eye, however I did when I remembered, which was probably half the time. I'm really starting to lean toward the processing.
Love your videos! 7222 is one of my favourite b&w films. I guess the fogging was caused by something in the processing since the edge of the frame can be seen neatly. Anyway, my guess is as good as the next one.
Thank you, and I think you're right, I've used that Bolex many times and never had a problem. Gonna change up a few things next time and see how it goes.
Can 7222 be bleached? How is reversal flipped?
That's an excellent question, and honestly, I have no idea. I see no reason why it couldn't be, however the makeup of the film may differ from that of actual reversal film so I'm kinda just guessing.
@@Filmboy24 I have some film left over from my project, in case someone has the same question. I plan on using potassium dichromate sulfuric acid for the bleach and sodium sulfite for the clearing agent. Through trial and error I will get the time and answer thanks for replying!
Carefully and safely I should add These are the dangerous chemicals
@@JonathanHancock Please keep us all posted on your results, love to hear about them! Thanks!
@@Filmboy24 I got sodium sulfate but I need sodium sulfide for a clearing agent I also bought some glacial acetic acid I propose to add that to the fixture since it is the main ingredient in fixer I have tons of bleach. I’m still figuring out if I should do interviews silently or strap my camera to my motorcycle. I’m going question of what to shoot. It’s going to be good I got a find the right thing to focus on over and over. Like the photographer that takes the photo over and over again year after year. A little tangent sorry