There’s a lot of others out there who don’t show their work, but you do and that’s what we’re here for. The Captions are useful and you’re showing the steps, not just telling. Thanks for not telling stories about the car. I’m just here to see how it’s done and thank you for showing!
I want to say thanks again , this video helped the most. This is for anyone trying to change the passenger side axle , the best thing to do is remove the jack shaft . You will have a hard time just removing the axle by itself
5:39 I think you switched sides. Saw you install the salvaged jack shaft just prior and would have been nice to see how easily (or not) the new right side CV axle slides onto the old jack shaft and how you went about doing that.
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox No, I meant you switched the *video* from the right to the left so we didn't see how well the new axle went into that old, rusty jackshaft. No matter.
I did both sides without popping the lower ball joint. Take the two bolts out running through the strut, then the wheel spindle flops enough away to work the shaft out and boom.
The 2 that run horizontal through the knuckle - I left the sway bar and lower ball joint to be (rusted) I still didn't fix the issue, replaced both cv axles, but still have a nasty crunching noise when pulling away, maybe the half shaft bearing, wheel bearing or something in the transmission I guess... @@ananymous2903
@@jdubhman thank you for this post, I have the wheel off and was trying to figure out why everyone was popping the lower ball joint out of the knuckle? It appears that you can replace the cv axle without having to remove that lower ball joint. Do I have that correct?
Happened to watch this after doing the job, pried on the half shaft a good bit before switching to hammering (another video showed the prying method). Got the job done, I guess I’ll know if I need a new half shaft once I start driving it…
Good vid man and real,only thing I would of done differently, would've been to try the demo hammer to separate the passenger side since there's a nice lip to chip/vibrate against.
Wow, thanks 👍, now I can maybe avoid an alignment by doing it through the ball joint, very good video to the point safety pointers, thanks I really mean that...
Does the passenger side axle have a clip on it to go in the half shaft? I didn’t notice one when I replaced mine. I notice about a 3mm play between the axle and half shaft. I pushed it back in but seems to come out slightly when I drive. I also hear a popping sound when I go over bumps or turn. Sounds like the clip is loose. If there is a clip I will have to take it out and try to find it
Great camera angles. It is nice to be able to see under the vehicle in a first person view. Keep up the good work. By the way are those axles reman or aftermarket?
Did you ever get the old axle shoulder removed from the old half shaft? If I can’t yank out the axle while on the car I’m planning to remove the half shaft with the bracket and reinstall it once I can get the old axle out of it. It’s a 04 civic hybrid passenger side. I bought an aftermarket axle which I am nervous about as I’ve heard bad things about using them on Hondas.
I dont know about Civic but, those two parts of the axle were fused together, it was an easy fix just to swap the whole assembly. I got the parts from an auto recycler OEM
I just bought an 03 element ex and it drives fantastic ! Except today out of the blue it felt like I was driving over "rumble strips " felt like it was on the passenger side . Some one said change the trans fluid out but it shifts fine , maybe the passenger side axle ?
Probably just a wear out part. Lift the front off the ground and check your wheels, suspensions, axles, knuckle for a play. Just grab them with two hands and firmly pull in and out . Also sometime Ice get stuck in the wheels and cause an unbalanced and Check your tires for something stuck in it. Axle is a good guess...It’s a good idea to service your transmission but I doubt it’s your problem.
Another way is just removing the 2 bottom bolts that holds the strut. The entire spindle assembly tilts downward giving you room to remove the CV axle from the spindle. It can be done in under 20min.
Can this be done with removing the connecting rods and strut or does it have to be the control arm? I have to replace my struts and if I can get away with only having to detach the one side I'd be much happier
If you are just replacing the front struts first disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering arms. Removed wheel sensors bracket. Then the 2 bolts at the bottom were the struts is attach to the wheel assembly. And last the 3 nuts on top of the struts (engine bay) that is it, it should come out easily...1 of the bolt at the bottom as a camber, you may need a wheel alignment after you install your new struts
Couldn't hear the click I heard the drummer play a rimshot though. Nice vid One of two I've seen (yours is the clearest) that show the fasteners for the jack shaft
What brand of new CV axles did you use? A1 Cardone? How did your new axles perform? Apparently, aftermarket CV axles can be poor quality and therefore risky. I have the same problem with my '05 Element, plus vibration when accelerating in 1st and 2nd gears at low speed. Thanks.
I used a rebuilt unit from Napa Auto, turn out good...out of my 3 Elements, this was my beater (the dog mobile). So cheaper parts was ok. I was a little more picky on my other Element, I bought the best I could afford. (Dealership first if price were reasonnable, otherwise best reputation aftermarket)
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox $800 more or less at the Honda "stealership" for either axle as new. Like..not happening there. I'll consider NAPA for one of their remanufacured units based on your experience. Thanks and BTW, I appreciate your Canadian videos; I am Canadian and like to consult as much Canadian YT content as possible.
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox That is where I got the prices. They are not up to date and at the stealership in my area (Cobourg) they usually tack on an extra 25%. Booooo!
Hi how long do you think 1997 CRV axils in general last after got changed they said the ball joints is the problem the car has 250 thousand miles my question do think the axle wasn’t the problem from beginning or they should be changed with the miles thanks
If my axle is not tight enough to shaft assembly, what should I do? (can I hit the end of the axle (without unscrewing lower, upper joint bolts)) (just unscrew an axle nut and hit the axle end with a rubber hummer? )
Hi This is what I do when parts dont cooperate to assemble properly. 1. I make sure that the process will not damaged any parts, so no short cuts. 2. Penetrating lubricant and blow torch heat does wonder (when possible) 3. Slide hammer and airtool with chisel (used gently) works great 4. If you can only used a sledge hammer...dont hit the parts directly, put a pieces of wood between the hammer and the part your hitting. 5.Hope for the best and think of a plan B if the operations goes sour. Good luck with your project
I have a 2001 honda crv that is essentially the same set up, except the halfshaft is on the drivers side. How difficult was it to get the new CV axle into the halfshaft? I'm hoping I didn't damage the new axle by beating it into the halfshaft.
It should go In without excessive force. You will know when you drive if it worked or not. The halfshaft mount is the weak link with those Honda. Thin Brittle aluminum mount
Hi, K A, I also have a 2001 CR-V, could you describe the symptoms/sounds you were encountering? Something happened to my crv's rear passenger wheel. It sounds as if the wheel is rubbing against something and there was also a clunking noise that sounded like something hitting the bottom of the vehicle. I'm trying to diagnose the issue. Thank you for your input!
thanks addition --- the universal-joint/cardan-lock/gimbal-lock is being enclosed by rubber, protecting from water-corrosion-damage, but maybe can create heat from friction during the tire running over many road bumps. correction ---- 'cardan-lock', 'gimbal-lock' should have been written as 'cardan-joint' source : 'gimbal' in en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimbal from 'gimbal', 'In Europe the universal joint is often called the Cardano joint' in en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint from 'universal joint' in en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drive_shaft#Automotive_drive_shaft correction 2 ---- maybe there is no friction, no heat because there is oil inside that rubber which makes all movement smooth, cardan-joint should have been written as birfield-joint. source : 'Birfield' in en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GKN from 'Birfield' in ruclips.net/video/vfLLaDsGWk0/видео.html from 'Birfield' in what-when-how.com/automobile/universal-joints-automobile/ from google (double cardan maximum vertical movement) page 1 result 2nd from last
More than 2 years on that one, it's the beater of the bunch, it just gets attention when things get critical. My other Element gets all the right preventive maintenance on regular basis (like bleeding calipers and cleaning brakes, fluid change...etc) and the wear is even on all 4 for several years now.
Sometime its ridiculous how stuck they are. Once on a tough one, I end up drilling small holes in the nut and soak it in penetring oil overnight. It finally came out...good luck
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox Yes, true. This should be stated because people who don't know how to do this, are thinking that cutting the stabilizer links is standard procedure. The same goes with the chain which can be very dangerous. It just would be nice if you gave a thorough narration of standard procedures, issues that you encountered and what you did to fix them. I just did front right CV Axle in my 2004 Cr-V yesterday, in my driveway. It went smooth as silk and only took about 1hr 15min. I did it the other way. I removed the strut bolts from the knuckle and rotated it out of the way. Then I used 2 pry bars to remove the axle. To each is own. But thank you for the video and effort put into the video and the work it took you to fix the vehicle. I hope you keep in mind that young people and novice driveway mechanics are watching your videos. Safety always comes first. Keep up the good work and hope to see more of you
There’s a lot of others out there who don’t show their work, but you do and that’s what we’re here for. The Captions are useful and you’re showing the steps, not just telling. Thanks for not telling stories about the car. I’m just here to see how it’s done and thank you for showing!
I'm glad the videos formula works for you...thank you for the feedback
This video is brilliant. Not just content but production is excellent & engaging.
Thank you for the kind feedback
I want to say thanks again , this video helped the most. This is for anyone trying to change the passenger side axle , the best thing to do is remove the jack shaft . You will have a hard time just removing the axle by itself
Im glad it work out, thank you for the update...cheers
Thanks, you saved me a lot of heartburn wondering how to separate the shafts. The socket trick did it in seconds.
Good to know the videos are helpful...thanks for the feedback
Thanks & great video Joe. I'm in the process of replacing the cv's on my 08 element
Thanks for the feedback Kobe...if nothing is stuck, its a real easy job...have fun
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox LMAO... "If nothing is stuck!" Famous last words. Working on cars in the salty north...like always happens.
@@canuckfixit7722 always wishfull thinking, but prepared for the worst
5:39 I think you switched sides. Saw you install the salvaged jack shaft just prior and would have been nice to see how easily (or not) the new right side CV axle slides onto the old jack shaft and how you went about doing that.
You can not swap side, different lenght and different connections
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox No, I meant you switched the *video* from the right to the left so we didn't see how well the new axle went into that old, rusty jackshaft. No matter.
Learned alot thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
The 2 strut bolts are not eccentric. So pulling them is not a problem. Always a good idea to check the alinement after front end work.
I did both sides without popping the lower ball joint. Take the two bolts out running through the strut, then the wheel spindle flops enough away to work the
shaft out and boom.
One of those struts bolt is for alignment, are your front tires wearing out evenly?
What 2 strut bolts are you referring to?
The 2 that run horizontal through the knuckle - I left the sway bar and lower ball joint to be (rusted) I still didn't fix the issue, replaced both cv axles, but still have a nasty crunching noise when pulling away, maybe the half shaft bearing, wheel bearing or something in the transmission I guess... @@ananymous2903
@@jdubhman thank you for this post, I have the wheel off and was trying to figure out why everyone was popping the lower ball joint out of the knuckle?
It appears that you can replace the cv axle without having to remove that lower ball joint.
Do I have that correct?
Happened to watch this after doing the job, pried on the half shaft a good bit before switching to hammering (another video showed the prying method). Got the job done, I guess I’ll know if I need a new half shaft once I start driving it…
Mine was seized in really bad
Good vid man and real,only thing I would of done differently, would've been to try the demo hammer to separate the passenger side since there's a nice lip to chip/vibrate against.
Thanks for the advice.. I will try that next time
Wow, thanks 👍, now I can maybe avoid an alignment by doing it through the ball joint, very good video to the point safety pointers, thanks I really mean that...
Good to know that the vids are useful to help people fix their Element...thank you for the feedback
Does the passenger side axle have a clip on it to go in the half shaft? I didn’t notice one when I replaced mine. I notice about a 3mm play between the axle and half shaft. I pushed it back in but seems to come out slightly when I drive. I also hear a popping sound when I go over bumps or turn. Sounds like the clip is loose. If there is a clip I will have to take it out and try to find it
Great camera angles. It is nice to be able to see under the vehicle in a first person view. Keep up the good work. By the way are those axles reman or aftermarket?
Thanks for your feedback, the axles were reman and performed like new one
Thanks for the video. Did you get that crazy vibration from wheel when accellerating too?
I had some vibration but not too bad. The grinding noise was worrying me...thanks for the feedback
Did you ever get the old axle shoulder removed from the old half shaft? If I can’t yank out the axle while on the car I’m planning to remove the half shaft with the bracket and reinstall it once I can get the old axle out of it. It’s a 04 civic hybrid passenger side. I bought an aftermarket axle which I am nervous about as I’ve heard bad things about using them on Hondas.
I dont know about Civic but, those two parts of the axle were fused together, it was an easy fix just to swap the whole assembly. I got the parts from an auto recycler OEM
I just bought an 03 element ex and it drives fantastic ! Except today out of the blue it felt like I was driving over "rumble strips " felt like it was on the passenger side . Some one said change the trans fluid out but it shifts fine , maybe the passenger side axle ?
Probably just a wear out part. Lift the front off the ground and check your wheels, suspensions, axles, knuckle for a play. Just grab them with two hands and firmly pull in and out . Also sometime Ice get stuck in the wheels and cause an unbalanced and Check your tires for something stuck in it. Axle is a good guess...It’s a good idea to service your transmission but I doubt it’s your problem.
Another way is just removing the 2 bottom bolts that holds the strut. The entire spindle assembly tilts downward giving you room to remove the CV axle from the spindle. It can be done in under 20min.
Good to know…thank you
Can this be done with removing the connecting rods and strut or does it have to be the control arm? I have to replace my struts and if I can get away with only having to detach the one side I'd be much happier
If you are just replacing the front struts first disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering arms. Removed wheel sensors bracket. Then the 2 bolts at the bottom were the struts is attach to the wheel assembly. And last the 3 nuts on top of the struts (engine bay) that is it, it should come out easily...1 of the bolt at the bottom as a camber, you may need a wheel alignment after you install your new struts
Couldn't hear the click I heard the drummer play a rimshot though. Nice vid One of two I've seen (yours is the clearest) that show the fasteners for the jack shaft
Good to know the video helps, thank you for the feedback
What brand of new CV axles did you use? A1 Cardone? How did your new axles perform? Apparently, aftermarket CV axles can be poor quality and therefore risky. I have the same problem with my '05 Element, plus vibration when accelerating in 1st and 2nd gears at low speed. Thanks.
I used a rebuilt unit from Napa Auto, turn out good...out of my 3 Elements, this was my beater (the dog mobile). So cheaper parts was ok. I was a little more picky on my other Element, I bought the best I could afford. (Dealership first if price were reasonnable, otherwise best reputation aftermarket)
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox $800 more or less at the Honda "stealership" for either axle as new. Like..not happening there. I'll consider NAPA for one of their remanufacured units based on your experience. Thanks and BTW, I appreciate your Canadian videos; I am Canadian and like to consult as much Canadian YT content as possible.
Honda Canada is terrible for price, look up TorontoHondaparts, sometime they ship for free
I never had bad luck with rebuilt unit...good luck
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox That is where I got the prices. They are not up to date and at the stealership in my area (Cobourg) they usually tack on an extra 25%. Booooo!
Hi how long do you think 1997 CRV axils in general last after got changed they said the ball joints is the problem the car has 250 thousand miles my question do think the axle wasn’t the problem from beginning or they should be changed with the miles thanks
Hard to tell without seeing it, but its not unusual for front steering and suspension components to wear out about the same time
Thanks
If my axle is not tight enough to shaft assembly, what should I do? (can I hit the end of the axle (without unscrewing lower, upper joint bolts)) (just unscrew an axle nut and hit the axle end with a rubber hummer? )
Hi
This is what I do when parts dont cooperate to assemble properly.
1. I make sure that the process will not damaged any parts, so no short cuts.
2. Penetrating lubricant and blow torch heat does wonder (when possible)
3. Slide hammer and airtool with chisel (used gently) works great
4. If you can only used a sledge hammer...dont hit the parts directly, put a pieces of wood between the hammer and the part your hitting.
5.Hope for the best and think of a plan B if the operations goes sour.
Good luck with your project
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox Thank you!
Is it hard to remove the jackshaft? , I have very hard time removing the axle .
It always came out easily for me, just more prep work...good luck
Thanks
I have a 2001 honda crv that is essentially the same set up, except the halfshaft is on the drivers side. How difficult was it to get the new CV axle into the halfshaft? I'm hoping I didn't damage the new axle by beating it into the halfshaft.
It should go In without excessive force. You will know when you drive if it worked or not. The halfshaft mount is the weak link with those Honda. Thin Brittle aluminum mount
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox thanks for replying. It drives (for now haha).
Hi, K A, I also have a 2001 CR-V, could you describe the symptoms/sounds you were encountering? Something happened to my crv's rear passenger wheel. It sounds as if the wheel is rubbing against something and there was also a clunking noise that sounded like something hitting the bottom of the vehicle. I'm trying to diagnose the issue. Thank you for your input!
Do the rears ever need replacing? I am having some funky noises but nor sure where its coming from
Could be a rear wheel bearing. Just lift the rear and grab and spin, shake all the links for loose or worn parts
It's most likely the rear sway bar bushings, I changed mine and the clunky rear went away
nope. don't need to do any of that. take the top bolts for the wheel hub out and just pull it out. works perfectly
Having trouble getting the axle nut off
I Use penetrating oil and I let it soak for a while, also a blow torch for stubborn nuts…
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox .. ok. Thank you. Gonna try again tomorrow.
thanks
addition ---
the universal-joint/cardan-lock/gimbal-lock is being enclosed by rubber, protecting from water-corrosion-damage, but maybe can create heat from friction during the tire running over many road bumps.
correction ----
'cardan-lock', 'gimbal-lock' should have been written as 'cardan-joint'
source :
'gimbal' in
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gimbal
from
'gimbal',
'In Europe the universal joint is often
called the Cardano joint'
in
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint
from
'universal joint' in
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drive_shaft#Automotive_drive_shaft
correction 2 ----
maybe there is no friction, no heat because there is oil inside
that rubber which makes all movement smooth, cardan-joint should have been written as birfield-joint.
source :
'Birfield'
in
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GKN
from
'Birfield'
in
ruclips.net/video/vfLLaDsGWk0/видео.html
from
'Birfield'
in
what-when-how.com/automobile/universal-joints-automobile/
from google (double cardan maximum vertical movement)
page 1 result 2nd from last
Thanks for your input
Wunder if the crv looks like that maybe better fix it soon
I think it’s almost the same
What's with the weird rotor where?
Not sure why the uneven wear. I install new rotor and pads after shooting that video. all brakes look fine now.
Joe Baker How long has it been? I have really weird brake wear on all 4 wheels, and I wonder if it's just something that happens normally
More than 2 years on that one, it's the beater of the bunch, it just gets attention when things get critical.
My other Element gets all the right preventive maintenance on regular basis (like bleeding calipers and cleaning brakes, fluid change...etc) and the wear is even on all 4 for several years now.
I'm having a hell of a time getting enough leverage to pop that balljoint bolt out.
Sometime its ridiculous how stuck they are. Once on a tough one, I end up drilling small holes in the nut and soak it in penetring oil overnight. It finally came out...good luck
Instead of removing the ball joint I just disconnected the assembly from the strut.
same here!
Rent a ball joint removal tool!!!
lol crazy ending.
thanks for your feedback Jose Ortiz
What a nightmare. Maybe I won't buy a Honda element.
That's nothing, when you have to replace the oil pan, you wish you drove something else
Dude, TURN DOWN THE MUSIC. Way too loud compared to voice. Very helpful video otherwise. Thanks.
Why would you cut or remove the stabilizer link? This is NOT how to replace a CV Axle
Wow! I continued watching your video. REALLY !?!?
In a perfect world you are right...in the rust belt, you sometime have to improvise
@@JoeBakerOutsideTheBox Yes, true. This should be stated because people who don't know how to do this, are thinking that cutting the stabilizer links is standard procedure. The same goes with the chain which can be very dangerous. It just would be nice if you gave a thorough narration of standard procedures, issues that you encountered and what you did to fix them.
I just did front right CV Axle in my 2004 Cr-V yesterday, in my driveway. It went smooth as silk and only took about 1hr 15min. I did it the other way. I removed the strut bolts from the knuckle and rotated it out of the way. Then I used 2 pry bars to remove the axle. To each is own.
But thank you for the video and effort put into the video and the work it took you to fix the vehicle. I hope you keep in mind that young people and novice driveway mechanics are watching your videos. Safety always comes first.
Keep up the good work and hope to see more of you