Honda Element Starter Replace Less Than 1 hour
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2024
- If you would like a faster option for replacing your Honda Element starter then this video may be helpful. Watch this time saving method that will save you money and broken knuckles. hey thanks for watching The Car Doctor Channel and please subscribe for more great videos!
Mark my words, it’s way easier going from the top than the bottom. Took about 30 mins to take off cross bar, throttle bottle, and intake manifold, giving direct access to the starter from the top, with tons of working room. Total time for job took about hour and a half.
I have done 4 accord 2.4 starters. The first I did using this same method and it was a royal pain laying on my back. The next three I did from the top by removing the intake, the throttle tube, the overflow tank and various vacuum lines, hoses and electrical connectors etc etc and pulled back the intake toward me and to the right to gain access. I used a bungy cord to hold everything away from the work area. You will gain a lot of access space with this method and keep your sanity. Start to finish from the top took me 1.5 hours very casually and is also recommended to replace the manifold gasket. I realized that going from beneath was not really that big a deal and saves a lot of time, but space is an issue and my patience was tested mulriple times. Having a car lift would be most helpful of course. By the way Honda dealership wanted $745.00 labor only to do this. And in speaking to a mechanic on break outside, he said they go from under the vehicle and takes him 45 mins start to finish as he has done so many. I have used reman Denso 2806006 starters $116.00 plus the return core without any problems in four years, comes with 12 month warranty. Of course if you cannot break those bolts loose from the bottom, then go from the top. Watch this video closely it will help. And be patient.
Great write up. Appreciate you taking the time this will help. 👍
$745.00 for 45min?? I need that job..
Thanks for posting this. I did it in about an hour and 15 minutes. I used a deep socket with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter which allowed just the right length to get a 1/2 drive ratchet on. The hardest part for me was getting that back bolt back into the bolt holes. Thanks again.
Thank you for the great video. I just did this and the Honda started right up. Just a note to others though, take your time this is a very frustrating job because through most of it you have only enough room to work with one hand. As a backyard mechanic, with no lift (jacked up the front a few inches) it took me about 3 hours...this included occasionally getting out from under the Honda in frustration at how hard it was to get at that back 14mm bolt so I could sip on a beer for a bit before getting back to it. But hey it worked as he shows you in the video and you don't touch the manifold and have to fork out even more money for gaskets.
I was going to help a friend, who isn't a mechanic, replace the starter in my organizations Honda Element...but after seeing your video...I don't think my friend would be able to do it in less than 3 days! (lol) I'm just afraid it wouldn't come out right. However...I did enjoy your video and love your humor!
Thank you Car Doc! Extraction was a 6 out of 10 difficulty, Insertion... 12 out of 10... LOL. Still got 'er done in under 3 hrs. ...but bruised up forearm for casualty where the frame tube tries it's best to keep you blocked. Seeing is believing, and without your video I'd never believe I could 'weasel' that starter out of there. Trying to blindly get that back bolt back in was probably the hardest part of the job, but with patience it can be done.
Really grateful for this video. On the Element Owners Forum, there have been reports that this is possible but until now I have never seen definitive proof. I suspect though that for most shadetree mechanics like myself who do not have a lift or a wide selection of tools (especially air tools), coming in from the top is the best route. My alternator is at 125k and my other Honda's starter died around the same mileage so I'm just trying to have it all figured out before the inevitable happens. But then again, it might surprise me and last to 240k like another Element owner's did. One thing's for sure -- you are 100% right about putting in the highest quality replacement you can afford because you don't want to do this twice. Thanks for the video.
Thank you! I hope some more folks try this from below and give feedback on how it went, Its a timesaver for me for sure but youre right about not having a lift. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Car Doc for the video. My daughter's element failed this morning. Read the section of the maintenance manual on how to remove the starter and a lot of parts have to be remove before seeing the starter area. Go to youtube and saw your method of removing the starter with less parts remove; then I started removing the starter your way.
Not a walk in the park though. After removing the bolts, removing my starter was impossible without removing the manifold bar support. Tools needed for bar support removal was a 12mm wrench size (deep socket). finally was able to remove the starter.
Front bolt was easy, the rear bolt was another mission impossible. I was not able to finish the rear bolt - will do it tomorrow
Thanks for the video! I replaced the starter in my 2003 Honda Element using this method. After removing the plastic shield underneath the starter is already exposed. The only thing I did differently was that I did not remove the knock sensor. I see how it would have given you more room but I found it was not necessary. Thanks again!
Thank you for the in-depth analysis and presentation of changing the starter from the bottom. Faced with no choice but to replace the starter and still recovering from surgery I did a little bit of go from the top and go from the bottom. I split the intake manifold Upstream of the injector rail I was lucky enough to have only had to disconnect the connector plugs from the injector rail a ground connection and one other Electrical connection and one or two vacuum or breather lines. The 17 millimeter bolt was crazy tight and given my condition and not having the vehicle up on Jacks I had to displace the intake manifold to be able to get a breaker bar and a pipe on to it. Thanks again for all of your tips
Thanks Car Doctor. Just changed out the starter on my '03 Element. My comments: be sure to cut off the Honda zip tie holding the wiring. The bracket on the starter makes it doubly hard to turn the starter to take off cable, so I just pushed it up to clear and pulled down to remove starter cable. I suggest removing the bracket on new or reman starter and just reinstall. I don't anticipate any issues with the cables moving around. The blind bolt took a couple of minutes, but was found OK. Doc, you made it look easy! Next time it will be easier! (Hope not very soon!)
on 2008 had to also remove bracket for intake manifold in order to get enough clearance to get the nosecone of the starter down and out before I could remove the 12mm starter wire. Thanks, Good approach.
2010. Can’t seem to get at the cable clamp. Will try this. Tks
Followed your steps to success! But since I'm on the wagon, you get a twelve pack! Thanks Car Doctor!!
Stop by and ill buy you a cup of coffee brother. Take care
Thank you for an excellent video! It saved me a lot of time. I don't have a lift, so I put the front on jack stands. I'd say the toughest part was getting that 14mm bolt behind the starter back in. My Element has 200k and I'm happy I didn't have to pull apart the throttle body and intake.
I have several comments.
First, great video! And thanks for the alternative to disecting the intake to get at the starter.
Second, to any one attempting this for the first time; unless you are very familar with working on these engines, expect to spent more than 1 hour to get this done. I just did this for the first time and there is a learning curve. That said, this is still a better method IMO.
Fourth, when the job is finished, be sure to get a six pack of beer for your mechanic and one for yourself.
Great job Car Doctor! I'm now a subscriber.
RayK
Third, with the exception of the air ratchet, be sure to have all the tools that Car Doctor uses. The jointed 3/8 ratchet is a must. I also found it handy to have a 12" pipe to fit over the ratchet handle for more leverage when breaking the starter bolts free.
Excellent feedback and thanks! Please don't leave my six pack out front of the shop after hours as it will freeze and explode this time of year. hahaha
This video is incredible. Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to create this. I also appreciate the humor. You rock dude!
i guess I am kinda off topic but do anyone know of a good place to watch newly released movies online?
@Samson Will flixportal xD
@Charles Raylan Thanks, signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) Appreciate it !
@Samson Will You are welcome :D
Same issue on my car! This is the second time I've used your video to take off the starter (first time it was actually the negative battery cable that was the issue!). Thanks so much.
I love the way you stick the flash light and your head directly in the way of MY view when you disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the starter and give no instruction. Exactly where I'm stuck.
I'm glad you had a good view...
great video saved me a bunch of time, even telling us what size sockets to use, loved the part about running over pets and kids when texting! thanks again!
He explained easy to understand. Simple and clear, Thank you
Great vid thanks Tim, I like your humor! My 07 Element SC I had to take the intake brace bracket off to actually remove the starter. This worked, and despite this method being very difficult, i did it without jackstands or lift. This is a much easier way than the top down method and throttle body and intake removal. Thanks CarDoc for the great vid and all the tips!!!! I appreciate it and not my ELE starts like a champ!
Hope it helps. Good luck and thank you for watching
It totally helped Tim! (Edits above) Thanks so much!
Looks as if I’ll have to do that too
It looks pretty rusty. Any tips?
@@beam5037 pb blaster or liquid wrench. Spray, let it marinate and repeat. Better to soak it good than to strip it out break it. If your in snow/salt country that goes triple
Hola nuevamente agradezco a The Car Doctor por este video,ya comente en ingles y ahora quiero contar mi experiencia p toda mi gente. Antes q nada les comento q vi varios videos muchas veces,la mayoria realiza el trabajo por arriba removiendo el manifold y muchas otras cosas mas,asunto q me parecio MUY COMPLICADO,ademas q se bota refrigerante y creo q gasolina,hay q desconectar cantidad de enchufes y pare ud de contar.
Asi q despues de ver tambien en el Manual de Taller de la Honda CRV 2007 q indica desmontar el arranque por abajo ,me dicidi a realizar el trabajo de esa manera.
Algo q quiero comentar es q los vehiculos HONDA son excelentes , pero a veces realizarles la mecanica no es tan agradable y este es un claro ejemplo. Q lugar tan complicado p colocar el arranque , bueno los ingenieros Honda sabran ......
Herramientas :
Rachet mediano( si tienen uno con cabeza articulable tenerlo para el tornillo 14mm del arranque ),dados 12mm,14mm largo,17mm,llave 1 1/16 o llave ajustable mediana,buena linterna,destornillador peq plano,trapo limpio,aceite lubricante,lija fina.
Levantar la camioneta para poder trabajar comodo respetando las normas de seguridad. Recordar q no es un trabajo facil por el poco espacio q hay por debajo , pero con paciencia se puede realizar,a mi me tomo 6 horas con respectivos descansos p no danar naday me parece q es mas sencillo q por arriba.Haganlo con calma.
ANTES de comenzar tener las herramientas a mano,un recipiente plastico o bandeja p ir colocando todo lo q se saque y no extraviarlo,iluminar bien el area de trabajo . Y recordar una vez vuelto todo a instalar chequear y rechequear q todo este conectado y en su lugar.
PASO 1- Desconectar BATERIA
PASO 2-Quitar protector de plastico q va debajo parachoque delantero , son como 15 o 16 tornillos plasticos , saquelos con cuidado de no romperlos con un destornillador peq.plano. Hay dos tornillos plasticos a cada lado por dentro parafangos OJO.
PASO 3-Una vez quitado el protector plastico negro se ve el arranque ,aqui se puede ver el ramal de cables q va hacia el arranque , el sensor,etc ,este ramal hay q soltarlo p trabajar mas comodo. Hay dos clips plasticos q sujetan el ramal a unas piezas metalicas ,con cuidado desengancharlo y moverlo con CUIDADO hacia el radiador p tener mas espacio en el area de trabajo.
PASO 4- Desconectar el SENSOR (IMPORTANTE} q esta ubicado a la izquierda del arranque,primero desconectar el cable q va al sensor,ubicar la palanquita q se presiona suavemente en el conector plastico y halar despacio. Una vez desconectado el cable proceder con la llave larga 1 1/16 o llave ajustable ( use esta pq no tengo la 1 1/16) a sacar el sensor. No esta muy apretado asi q es relativamente facil aflojarlo,una vez q aflojo con la mano terminar de desenroscarlo del bloque del motor.Cuidando q no se caiga o golpee pq estos sensores llevan cristales q si se golpea puede estropearse y este sensor cuesta como $60.
Paso5- Desconectar el cable q va a un lado del arranque , este lleva un conector peq q tiene un protector de goma o caucho,con cuidado retirar hacia atras con la mano el protector de caucho , aqui se ve el conector metalico , desconectarlo del arranque tomandolo por la pza metalica y no por el cable.
PASO 5 - Proceder a aflojar y retirar el primer tornillo del arranque , el q esta abajo , con el dado de 17mm,este esta un poco apretado ,yo use un rachet mango mediano y le puse un tubo plomeria al mango rachet p tener mas torsion ,me apoye bien y aplique un poco de fuerza hasta q aflojo. una vez q aflojo lo deje en su sitio p retirarlo despues.
PASO 6- Retirar tornillo 14mm arranque{EL MAS DIFICIL PARA MI), este es el q casi me hace desistir de realizar con exito el trabajo. Este tornillo como se aprecia en el video esta por arriba del arranque , entre el arranque y el bloque motor. Aqui se puede ver pq es necesario retirar el SENSOR ya q queda atravesado y muchos lo han roto tratando de sacar este tornillo. Bueno continuamos : aqui necesitamos el dado largo de 14mm,un rachet articulable,paciencia y suerte. Yo como no tengo dado largo ni rachet articulable, use un rachet con un adaptador q me dio el largo p llegar con dificultad a la cabeza del tornillo de 14mm, y ademas de mis dedos largos ..... Despues de varios intentos logre aflojar este desgraciado tornillo,cabe acotar q al mover el rachet el mango toca una manguera radiador y cableado,asi q hay q hacerlo con cuidado. Quitan los dos tornillos (14mm-17mm)q sujetan el arranque y sosteniendo el arranque con la mano lo bajan con cuidado sin soltarlo. Una vez afuera ,siguen sosteniendo el arranque no lo suelten, quitan el tapon de goma del cable ppal y con una llave creo q 12mm o 14mm desenroscan la tuerca p liberar el cable del arranque . POR FIN tienen el arranque en sus manos.
PASO 7- Si quieren tapan con pano o trapo limpio el hueco donde va alojado el arranque p q no le entre ningun tipo de suciedad. El tornillo de 17 mm estaba levemente corroido asi q le pase suavenmente la lija muy fina p quitarle las asperezas y lubrique ambos tornillos.
PASO 8- Teneiendo el arranque nuevo o reparado ,apoyar o sostener el arranque y colocarle el cable principal ,una vez colocado este llevar con cuidado el arranque hasta su lugar . Yo coloque primero el tornillo de 17mm,apriete lo suficiente p q el arranque quede en su lugar . Ahora viene la parte dificil q es colocar el tornillo de 17 mm,esto me llevo sangre sudor y lagrimas ,posiblemente por no tener las herramientas mas apropiadas. Una vez q se colocaron los dos tornillos del arranque ,terminar de apretar los tornillos con cuidado hasta q sienta q el arranque quedo firme ,se conecta el cable q va al lateral del arranque , se coloca el sensor en el bloque,se conecta cable sensor y se vuelve a armar todo otra vez. PRUEBE el arranque si todo esta bien , instale el protector plastico negro . Suerte y nuevamente THANKS a THE CAR DOCTOR . Chao JC
Before you waste your time trying this (like I did), please read this comment.
Notice he has the E raised on a LIFT. If you do not, good luck. I don't.
Once I easily removed the knock sensor nut, I realized everything else was extremely difficult to get to. It took me THIRTY MINUTES to get the knock sensor nut back on!
It's just very tight in there, even though I had socket extensions and whatever.
I ended up taking it to a mechanic, who charged 3 hours of labor for a $230+ part. Some are cheaper, but I get premium parts.
Afterwards I asked my mechanic if he ended up going from the bottom or top, since I'd recommended bottom.
He said they tried from under, but wound up taking off the manifold and going from the top.
So if you want to save yourself an hour of frustration trying this without a lift, or hours of labor at a mechanic, if I did this again, I'd just go from the top.
Good luck.
Thanks TCD! I had a hard time releasing the clip on the knock sensor so I broke it free and rotated it until I could get my thumb on the clip release, removed the lead and then removed the sensor. Boy, getting that blind bolt out was a bugger! Also I used the NAPA new starter for the replacement.
Going back in that blind bolt was a b!tc# to get started! But with a little Devine intervention I got it started and the rest of the job went back together without a hitch. Thanks again for posting this video.
Great video...If I should forget everything I learned on this video, I will not forget that..."mechanics like beer!"
Thanks for the video. . Helped me a lot. . I just replaced the starter of my 2003 element following your steps.. Definitely quicker than doing it from the top. .
Great, thanks for posting the results and im super happy it was helpful. Blessings.
Thanks for the great video I can't tell you how many I've watched it do it the hard way taking their intake manifold off and everything I knew you could get out of from underneath but I suppose being able to raise your car all the way up makes it a lot easier
NICE VIDEO- GOOD INFO ON TOOLS THAT WILL LIMIT PROFANITY.
Your video helped me a lot, I did on my 2005 Honda CRV. I am form Caracas Venezuela and I am tired the BAD MECHANICS on the autorized Honda Dealer in Caracas, they made really bad job and is too expensive. It took me maybe five hours but I am not a mechanic and I don t have the professional tools that you have and use; but its Ok. The hard part for me was take of the 14mm starter bolt,it was really hard beacuse of the space ,but with patient I took off. And a recomendation you can take off de main wiring cable of the starter when you have the starter out there , I did that way and is really easy. Important is dont forget to take off the sensor near the starter,and made shure to put everything in place take you time to check this. Thank again Car Doctor guy I take a cold beer in your honor. Sorry for my englsh Bye C
PD; I will write my experience in spanish for the people that dont speak in english. Bye
Thank you and im so glad it helped.
Great tutorial. The starter bolts broke our very similar snap-on 3/8-drive socket.
Nice video Tim with a good tip about taking the starter out from underneath. Now, I know the purpose of the skid plate! Take care Tim...
Thank you! Good to see you here.
Did this job yesterday, from the bottom. Took about 5.5hrs on a 2008 model.
Took an hour just to get the sensor out.
Yes any wire ties were cut. (and not replaced)
No, the top bolt isn't going back in w/o 10" long fingers with eyeballs on the ends OR doing the job by going in from the top to begin with. So in my case, only one bolt went back in. Some day I might bother getting the other one in, but no time soon best I can tell. It'll be fine with just the one bolt so long as you get it in to torque spec and with blue LocTite.
Naturally I do not recommend this method, but in 100 degree heat in a parking lot there's plenty worse things you could leave out. (like the dammed sensor, tho I didn't and don't recommend you do either)
I'm not suggesting the video is a misrepresentation, but going in the from the top would probably be faster for the average tinkerer with the average tool set. If only a bit more expensive since you'll need new gaskets for all the things you take off.
My biggest issue with the whole thing is the stupid prices for not even a Honda OEM starter. What the actual?!
Thankfully it's the only thing I've had to spend more than $100 on for this car, other than tires. So I guess I'm still ahead in the deal.
Thanks for the video. Great info. Cheers!
I'm dying laughing. 🤣 " if u run over small animals and children if your texting and driving" and the "mechanics love beer some a Lil too much". This guy is awesome. I put my starter in myself watching this. I love working on my cars myself, it's empowering!!!
SnapOn makes great stuff . Harber Freight makes affordable stuff I WILL GO WITH AFFORDABLE . Very nice torque wrench though Thanks for your GREAT videos too!!!
I am with you 100% I am all about saving money. I have a very humble tool selection myself and have avoided buying lots of specialty tools by making do whenever possible, Nothing wrong with that buddy. Thank you for watching my vids!
I wondered about this and how much harder it would be to access the started from below. Now I know it can be done. Thank you for the video.
Thanks. It's a pain either way but this might save you some time. Take care.
With my 2010 model I removed the lower manifold bracket bolt 12mm and the manifold bolts on the top - this allows the bracket to be pulled outward and the starter to be slide in and out of place. If you can get the upper bolt off the lower bracket without stripping it that’s best. A mirror was essiential for the back bolt placement but still lots of feeling around and getting it in with trial and error. I lubed up the ratchet so it would click back easily and used a short socket with extensions it get the back bolt started. The long socket would not bottom out so the bolt would not start to thread.
Nice video. I appreciated your added humor.
Great video. These types of videos will definitely help someone out big time. They're not just simple how to videos. I will be thinking about you if I ever have to replace the starter on one of these vehicles.
I appreciate the complements. I make a little revenue from my channel but I really enjoy helping people with their car problems.
Ooooh, great video... we have a couple of Element owners / customers! If I were closer... I'd drop off a six pack!
I'll stop by next time I'm in the area.
great video, I really learned a lot. If I ever meet you, I will buy the beer.
Got it done today- great advice
Thanks for the video... thanks for all the comments. Wish me luck.
This video is great, thank you. But it’s a complete nightmare without a lift. Can’t contort your hands and arms for most of the procedures and it is a painful nightmare. But, I got it done. Thanks. Time for some Aleve.
Just did this job myself using this method, definitely isn't a 1 hours job but it is possible and you can leave the intake in place.
I just did this job. Your instructions are good, but every step is difficult. Reinstalling the upper starter bolt was downright comical! I honestly don’t think I saved much time compared to going at it through the intake manifold, though I never want ti find out for sure.
It's funny how you take a moment to help other mechanics get beer
I bought my mechanic a 12 pack before doing the starter. May have been a mistake.
Will this work on a 2007?
What is the trick to not dropping the back bolt? Dropped the back bolt putting the new starter in and it got severely lodged. Had to buy a new back bolt and have almost dropped it again trying to put it in and now I'm scared of dropping it. What about removing that black plastic hosing to the back of the starter to get more room for my hand?
Remove the two 8mm bolts on the back of the starter then remove the cylinder half of the starter. Makes the 14mm long bolt much more accessible.
That’s one way to remove it. I assume you don’t do the same installing it.
@@ThecardoctorTV that's correct. I put the long 14mm bolt in the new starter hole.snug the 17mm in front then used a 1/4 inch wratchet with a 3/8 adapter 14mm short socket to avoid the knock sensor.
Take the cover off the intake runners and split the manifold it's a lot less grief.
I agree, save yourself the frustration of trying to reach the 14mm bolt and just do it from the top.
Thank you this video helped so much
Thanks Car Doctor, you demonstrated there's more than one way to skin a cat...
Car Doctor - My Element just had it's starter die. I've got *some* ability working on cars, I've never tackled taking off a manifold before. Should I go the "proper" route, or should I give this way a go? The only thing I don't have is the air tools.
outstanding video. thanks for making it
A warning to those looking to change their starter. Don't do it this way. It's stupidly difficult. Pull the manifold. It's way easier and faster.
The way you said that kinda reminds me of the McKenzie brothers when he was like Hey I know how to get a free beer and take a baby mouse and stick it in a beer bottle and then wait till it grows up and then take it back to the store and be like hey hey hey there's a mouse in my beer
How did you figure out this can be done from the bottom? Are you leaving out any key details or problems you've encountered? For example, I replaced my Element starter but the 2 bolts holding it on were too tight and required a 3' pipe on the ratchet for leverage. And they were no easier going back on. I can't imagine doing it from the bottom without a lift and air tools.
Others have posted how to videos but they often gloss over or omit key details, which gives the impression the job is easier than it really is. I curse those people.
On the plastic bottom thing you remove, what if the screw clips holding it on are rusted? I tried to remove mine (for a different repair) but they were rusted so I tried penetrating oil, no luck. When I turned the rusted screws the clamps also turned and tore the plastic they were clamped to.
Mechanics figure out how to save time as part of their everyday work. We often spend extra time just exploring other options and better ways to operate. Corrosion can be a real problem. I don't encounter corrosion here very often so my videos almost never take that into account. I produced the video to show other options for removal and like I said in the video it may not be the best choice for everyone depending on many factors. Corrosion is one of those factors along with skill level and access to equipment and tools. I produce videos in hope that the information might be helpful to regular people since I enjoy assisting folks. I wouldn't want to mislead anyone because that wouldn't be helpful at all. Thanks for watching!
The Car Doctor
Thanks. So, how many Element starters did you replace from the top before trying it this way? What about the top method made you look for a better way?
I wanted to do my job better so i found a way to do just that.
I cut the plastic at the corners just beyond where it turns up into the wheel well so there is still a bolt at the ends.
I have an issue with my 2007 element, you turn the key when its cold and it wont cank until a couple of times, i replace batery and ignition switch but it still makes the failure, recently i rebuilt the engine and before it wont have the problem, can you give me a sugestion what else can i check or repkace? Thank you
Do you have a video about taking the alternator out the best way from you say the passenger side wheel well if that's the best
Nice video, thanks
Tim where is the 2005 Honda Element ECM relay located ?
I tried this… laying on my back with the car jack stand up… I could not get adequate torque or wrench swing to get the large bolt off. I broke it free but it is fighting me all the way out. I will just take the intake air manifold to get at it. Good news is the manifold bracket is off so taking the manifold off should be easier.
If you are going to try this method, it will be a lot easier to do it with the car way up high so you can stand under it and have a Milwaukee Impact wrench.
I have a 2010 Honda CR-V .....can I get replace the starter from the bottom ? Since the element is similar or not
Hi Tim. how can I be sure the starter is bad? For a couple of weeks my element sounded kind of sluggish when I was starting it. I assumed it was the battery but I had it tested and its good. When I turn the key now nothing happens at all. I don't know if it could possibly be something besides the starter. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks for the video!
An Answer here would be great! After three years, no answer. My problem is identical.
good thing you dont have fat fingers like me...nice video Tim
I wish my arms were like tooth picks and my hair was long and flowing.
haha so true
Ha! I had mine changed recently and my mechanic gave me quite a lecture on how hard it was and next time he'd charge me more. Glad I did not attempt it.
I hope you don't need to change it again for a long time!
that's why I'm here, reality check! subbing this one out, do wot u do best, outsource the rest! (I ain't an auto mechanic)
Hello have you heard of wiring / electrical fires with this vehicle? Thanks
So the knock sensor is actually 27mm? Will a deep socket work better for it?...............Edit..............Confirmed it is 27MM. I got mine done this weekend thanks to your video. I had a hard time so I removed the bracket that is in front of the starter. Just a 10mm bolt and nut. I got it done like in an hour and half.
Cool. Sorry it took a while to get to this.
Yes sir. Thanks again. BTW..........it was a 27mm open end.
I'm so glad you commented that. I just sent my husband to the store for the 3rd time for a larger wrench. If I hadn't seen your post, it would have been 4 lol
Great stuff- New to the channel and I love it! How about suggesting that the DIYer use car ramps instead of jack stands for this repair? Should provide more clearance and a safer environment. I didn't watch the entire video, but it doesn't appear that front wheel removal is required.
Right! I watched a video on how to change the oil on my wife's element and they said remove the front right tire to remove the oil filter. I actually used my ramps and was able to access the filter without removing the tire and it wasn't hard at all.
thanks for the video I really appreciate it 👍👍
I appreciate you watching!
way to go I new their had to be a hack for this instead of taking an intake manifold off!
Awesome video, great tip, just subscribed
Thank you! Good to have you on board
LOL..."replace skid plate to protect the underside should you run over small animals or children while texting"...priceless!
...you're a scream!
would u recommend buying oem starter from another honda with the same k series engine?
That would be nice but very spendy
love your videos .Hey where did you get your torque wrench used in your honda axel repair video?
SnapOn $$$$$
Great video big help thanks
thanks, Glad it helped.
it was tuff but ur way was faster thanks again Doc
This would be the same with the 04 Honda CRV right?
The lower starter bolt came out hard and was messing up the threads on the way out. I had to tap the hole again with the same size tap or I’d have been down to drilling it out and pulling a bolt and nut in it place. Nightmare avoided.
I recently did this on a 03 Accord 2.4. I pulled the intake. It looked like the easiest path...
The accord is slightly different and it's much harder to access from below but I haven't tried on that car. If you run into an element take a look. It might save you a little time. Have a good one.
Hello car doctor please help my element 04 awd AT the transmission lever is hard to move from reverse to park the trans fluid is new ..
Hey CD Your vid Is one of the best I seen on RUclips Thanks you helped me out of a rutt.Now would dropping the subframe be helpfull on this application? If so are there any downsides to dropping the sub or reason why to avoid such a task? I new to all this stuff and was tthinking of dropping the sub on my 04 crv to get to A/C.. Thanks for a quick response
sounds like the starter is dragging? how can i check it to be show it's the starter, have brand new battery 2003 element
RSVP ASAP
I have a tester for that or you can use an amp clamp and meter to monitor the draw. If it’s worse when warm it likely the starter.
Thanks,That's what i am thinking
Thx..for the vid Tim!
You bet. Good of you to stop in.
i tried to bottem but not enough room to apply leverage someone before me tighten the starter bolt way to much, had to pull intake from above
Thank you sir!
If I remove the manifold to access it, will it not be right?
No that’s perfectly fine to do it that way.
Hi guys I'm wondering if someone could help n give me some tips regarding my alternator. I was jump starting another vehicle with my 06 Honda Element, when the alternator in the Element caught fire. I obviously have to replace the alternator but does anyone know what other cables devices and parts i should inspect or replace? That would be a lot of help. Thank you.
Ty very much sir
Bahahahaha animals and small children while your texting ..ha.. nice vid
That's seriously what it's come to around here. Crazy stuff. I can't tell you how many times I discover some kind of fur or flesh on the underside of vehicles here. And if you look around it seems half the people are texting or have some distraction while driving. Anyway thanks for tuning in and I appreciate the positive feedback.
The Car Doctor
Awesome video. I have an 07 CRV can i remove it from underneath also?? thanks.
awesome - king of dry humor!!
Thanks
Good tip, TFS
Thank you. Might save someone some time.
Amen.
Speaking of amen, time for church.
Enjoy your worship.
Awesome brother! Will do.
+The Car Doctor great stuff for me cus I luv my job I'm living the dream
please tell me, I have a 2003 Honda Element, could the starter, be the one, that does not turn on my Element, could be the starter or the alternator, please let me know,
Yes, could be starter or alternator or lots of other things. Thanks for watching
Can we get a tool list?
Great video BTW Thank you!
Is it possible to replace the starter on the 2007 Element from underneath.
John Walters is it different? mine is a 2007.
You had me at running over kids and animals while texting
Hehe
"Run over them while texting"😭😂😂😂😂😂
Every time I pull the starter from a Vehicle it feels like I’m ripping the heart out from my enemy
I found the 17 mm in the front horrible. I didn't have an issue much with the long 14mm in back. I'm actually doing it now. It's really going to suck putting it back together
TY! very clever
Thanks for watching
One of the worst jobs I’ve tackled in my life and I’m a 67 year older old gear head.. I think the difference is between doing it on your back on the ground with car on ramps or having a hoist. The worst is that back bolt, working blind on it. They should have made it even longer, but probably didn’t think people would do it from the bottom.The position of your wrists on the ground are killer.. lots of A5/35 rub. Lol