We FIX the Budget Miata with YOUR Suggestions!
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Our Budget Miata receives some simple but effective modifications to help stiffen the chassis and improve driving performance including:
SuperPro Bushings: bit.ly/2Ykaxbt
Sparco 330MM Steering Wheel: bit.ly/2OixLix
5X Racing Parts: bit.ly/2yflK2C
R Theory Frame Rail Braces: bit.ly/2K6owfV
Bolt Buster: amzn.to/2LKKaJY
Ball Joint Separator: amzn.to/313qdln
Series Supported By:
RACEPAK: www.holley.com...
Nankang Motorsport: www.nankang.eu
Support us and buy parts from our new SA Shop: www.speedacade...
Join Our RUclips Community: goo.gl/n4m3Ez
Our Patreon page: / speedacademy
Our Merchandise page: speed-academy.m...
car should be ripping now, glad you are one of those channels that listens to their viewers!
This Miata is getting so much feature creep that it might be 90% all new parts by the time they're done. Not sure it'll qualify as budget anymore, but I like the content anyway.
yeah was thinking the same thing but if you compare it to a spec miata it's still "budget" haha
Realistically, an enjoyable, headache free, track NA/NB Miata is around $10k US after all is said and done (purchase of vehicle in varying conditions and maintenance+modifications). A similarly prepped NA/NB with all of this done that is purchased as is will go for around $10k US.
@@bullwing no trouble no content haha
6:13 he's turning it the wrong direction.................
Radbug good eye. The only reason I think of that old dude doing that is an old school trick is to actually tighten (just a little bit) a rusty old bolt in order to break some of the rust free before going in the loosening direction. Sometimes this is a good way to prevent snapping the bolt head off if you just immediately went in the loosening direction from the get-go.
Door bushings and solid hardtop mounts were the best mods I ever did to my NA
Fr dude theres no need for all of this
Loving the feature creep on this build, I think i prefer watching you build it than race it!
Animals, could have painted those rear control arms 🤣
“3000$ M3” “budget miata” jk love the content
For the frame rails, even though they are stainless it is a good idea to have them painted/powder coated. I did mine in bright Red to make them easier to see. Also did the FC RX7 NA diff housing swap with some nice Poly bushings.
For the shifter I also replaced the shifter bushing with the same bronze bushing but used high temp eurea grease (Honda S2000 style) and it's crazy how much better it makes it.
Last thing to do to help is to do a rear bumper cut to eliminate parachuting. On NBs it's not as important but it does help a bit and allows you to also tuck/angle your exhaust upwards if you wish.
If You guys want to stiffen yo the chassis you should add the Trackdog Racing bolt in door bars and the fender braces from GarageStar, those two mods will make the Miata feel way more solid at speeds and during cornering and give you way more confidence going into turns. I also recommend you guys check out the accel pedal and bmx shift knob from 5x racing.
Later model year NBs had cross braces that tied the frame rails together, I didn't see them on this car but I dunno if you took them off to install the new frame rails and just didn't show them going back on. There are also kits that add cross bracing to the aftermarket rails.
What made a huge difference in reducing cowl shake on my car was some fender braces in the front. Really improved the way the car handled bumps.
Rake is not the greatest of ideas. You automatically lose castor.
You do not have to remove rusted cotter pins. You unbolt through the cotter pin and drill through the remainings afterward if need be.
The C-clamp trick on the frame rails is a great idea.
Keep up the good work!
You guys at Speed Academy have to be some of the nicest and most interactive RUclipsrs out there. You guys frequently refer to comments your audience gives you and it makes the videos that much cooler. Really enjoy this channel.
Loving this even more now that I just picked up my own NB1 last week!
Just did a shifter rebuild not too long ago. The OEM bushing was shattered all inside of the housing. Replaced it with the brass one. Best 90 bucks I've ever spent
For some reason seeing your Canadian and American flags on the wall bring me great joy. 🇺🇸🇨🇦 cheers and God bless boys!
When you have siezed bolts, the best plan is patience, thermal cycles, and penatrating oil. I've had spectacular success with mixing ATF and Acetone 50/50. 😁👍
You did good, all the things that were needed so far!
There's something oddly calming about these videos. I currently own a turbo NA6 but am looking to get into a NB2 and this series has been awesome to watch so far.
Installed the same sparco wheel in my miata a few weeks ago its fantastic
what year? wheel is next on my list. still rockin' the chewed up stock 1990 one =(
@@VS666 also a 90 with bad wheel. Huge upgrade, 330mm is great.
Hey guys I live in cali . What happens if I get pulled over with an aftermarket wheel ? Ticket ? Fix it ticket?
I did this same job to my 92 miata about a year ago. Soaked all bolts and nuts with liquid wrench 24 hours prior. Car came apart with zero issues and little fuss. Now do poly engine mounts.
"Budget build" I think we have blown the budget. You guys are great. I would love to see a "ebay" turbo kit install, as I frwk that's a true budget performance gain, would be very interesting to see your reviews
It would give them that extra 100 hp they wanted easily
Yes boiss, i'm excited. I love Miata updates
Yes more front negative camber so far! good start, and a little rake. Ah you're doing it well haha this makes me happy
and gearstick bushings. Love it. GG Speed Academy, doing it properly
Two things we can learn from this build so far:
1) Never underestimate the power of RUST.
2) The more budget you think your build is, the more you'll be surprised when you have to spend more money on it. This isn't a knock against the name "budget Miata", it's just a simple and sometimes hard truth.
Love this series but ... this is far from budget... it's content and that is GREAT for us!
I think you missed the basics, one of the best things you can do is to put the car on scales and adjust ride height to get near perfect the weight distribution
Polly bushes that's essencial, those frame braces only add weight :)
I got the bauer extended lower ball joints. Super solid. Easy to get -2.5 camber now. Still have some room to play with. If yours is an NB1 i believe you need to run tie rod ends off nb2 to help with bump steer. I have those same bushings. So nice. Im using the fm sway bars and fox coilovers though
Man that Intro/Edit from 0:20-0:25 is sick. It gives me that Need for speed vibe I love it! Please keep that for future builds/projects!
Watching you pull those nasty rusted and seized parts is very satisfying. Should make a world of difference.
6:13 he's turning it the wrong direction.................
But moose tightened it
It had no nut on it ;)
a little bit of PB Blaster or some dissassembly spray makes those large suspension bolts come out so much easier then resorting to the sawzall
Can’t wait to see you guys get your hands on a Mitsubishi 3000GT/GTO
No such thing as a hassle free budget miata unless you live in a desert environment like Arizona or Southern California 😅
Mazda rust is at it again 😔
Reminds me of the struggles I had replacing the all the bushes on my mk1, sadly I didn't have the luxury of a ramp or decent tools, after that I said I'd never do bushes again, then I bought an E46 and dropped the rear subframe for re-enforcement and new bushes 😂
Still got my NB 2000 Monaco version that I brought to Spain. 60 odd k onthe clock now. Might be time to upgrade him a little
These guys are so chill. I love it.
-3 camber front, -2.5 rear. 22mm front bar, 16mm rear, 8k front springs, 6k rear springs. Get adjustable end links to remove bar preload. Enjoy
Here I got 25mm(stiff setting)/16mm(soft setting), 10.8k/7.1k springs (too soft still), -3.5/-3.0.
@@WilliamLevesqueineX sounds like a dialed track machine 👍 I'd like to try 10k 7k someday but mine is primarily a canyon/autox car so I'm not running r compounds or anything crazy. If I had more tire I would definitely benefit from more rate. They mentioned this car being a challenge car for others to drive, maybe with a less aggressive tire and softer rates it would loosen up a little like they seem to want
Can't wait to see the follow up video
Never heard of the bolt buster before, but I will buy one!
Before you hit the track, put the rear stock sway bar back in. You should be good to go now.
Why would they put the stock rear sway in if they want more rotation?
It's pretty weird how bad it understeered with that rear bar still, we'll see I guess but Miatas dont like too much rear ARB, especially not with holes close to the "girth". Fucks rear droop badly.
you mean the one he bent with his knee? XD
Even though that bolt gave you a hard time, trust me when I say it could have been worse. I had to cut both sides then use a mill to mill out the remaining portion in the upright. Good times
can't wait to see it on track again and see if you've gotten her more sorted!
Love this channel. As a Canadian, I clicked on one of your links to the 5xracing website to order the door bushings, however they don't ship to Canada...WHYYYYYYYYYY. If you guys can get them I'll place the order through your website asap. Thanks!
Glad the safety glasses were whipped out! How about some hearing protection? XD Love the video!
The only problem I see is to my taste the steering wheel looks great but being a deep dish (I’m 5.11) I would get a shorty hub. For my taste that wheel is too close, although probably more proper race position???... hmmm hard to say. I don’t think those Recaros slide all the way back plus the NB dashboard has about 1 inch less arm distance than the NA too... For leg room any 330 is fine. Even those OMP or Sparco semi circle wheels if you really want leg clearance.Nardi used to make one also , I forgot the name of them, in Japan they are popular in Suzuki Cappuccinos because those interior wise are quite a bit tighter than a Miata. Loving this series guys!!! Thanks to you and Nankang ! Please review each part after the drive and tell us which made the most difference !
Those lower arm bolts would have come out with a load of penetrating oil and some proper elbow grease!! Just gotta wire brush the gunk that clings to the middle of the bolt with a wire brush in the middle, then drive the bolt out with a punch.
Polybushed my 89 NA on the driveway a few months ago; and you boys are struggling on a 2 post lift 😉
You should learn to pre-spray rusted nuts and bolts the night before with PB Blaster. Loosens by sitting. I’ve NEVER had to cut a bolt
I want that tool u used to heat the nut up wow that thing is sick
Josh Jones , can use it for treating Haemarroids also, handy
You guys really need to invest in a few cases of some PB Blaster.
PB Blaster is for people that work on their cars at home who can afford to spray parts and leave them on for 24 hours. You think a shop thats shooting cars out or a production channel that works on many different cars has time to do that? Also Heat works better than any Penetrator out there for removing rusty bolts
Hey just a tip if you heat up bolts untill they are red hot it's really bad for strength if you choose to reuse them. By heating them up untill they are red they reach a critical point in the metal where it changes the crystaline structure of the molicules to a much weaker state. So what you guys did was essentially annealed the bolts putting them in there most soft state.
You can still have some play in the transmission/gearshift during cornering. If it's a problem, look into creating a custom transmission brace. There's a good DIY on miataturbo.net, otherwise you'll be hunting around for a discontinued Carbing unit.
The flex in the breaker bar... whew
To get more leverage for your breaker bar you need to get a piece of pipe that you can slip over it . You'd be surprised what an extra foot or two of leverage will get you.
Heat, followed by a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. When you try to break it, work it in both directions. Flush with ATF and acetone mixture. Repeat. It WILL come out!
I think it's terrible idea to run rake in order to make the car oversteer, sure it will make the car more unstable but not in the good way.
The trouble with rake is it doesn't allow the weight to shift to the rear wheels properly, and that's what you want to after you've initiated a slide - you want the weight to shift to the rear so that it will hold the slide.
The reason the car understeers is because you're running front springs and swaybars which are FAR too stiff, if you want to make a car oversteer in a comfortable controllable fashion you'd be better off swapping the springs front to back - so you have stiffer springs in the rear, or going back to the stock front swaybar.
Reminds me exactly of my 997GT3 tracking days - and in fact, to be really fast in a GT3, you actually drop the rear ride height to add even more grip in an already heavy rear platform. Also, as you stated, increasing the rear spring 'holds up' the car from lifting the front nose which reduces grip on track-out. Increased front spring does help stabilize weight transfer nose dive under braking which allows you to be more aggressive on corner entry - so it is useful from that perspective if you can exploit it (this is where a GT3 really shines with the help of a rear LSD to help control trail braking rotation). The ability to now add more front camber should help a lot but I would do that in addition to keeping as much rear grip as possible & without losing front caster.
There is no need to remove cotter pins if you're not reusing the ball joints. Just trim them as close as you can, and hammer on an impact socket. Any impact gun will sheer that pin, and it will thread right off.
Great selection of new parts. Those will improve the car so much.
Should just splash for the miata roadster shifter.
Those tires look a bit beefier too, a choice well made 👌
Got a coupon for one of those bolt busters? Looks awesome!
Just changed a super rusty ball joint on my subaru so I feel your pain.
Greetings from new Zealand, love this channel... Cheers
This is looking great guys !!
Keep up the great work
Your time lapse footage was awesome!
Well apparently you didn’t address all the comments. I’m pretty sure there was some “put an LS in it” comments. Lol
Hahaha. I'd rather see them K24 the Miata to be honest. These guys are hardcore track guys and LS is just too much power for such a tiny car in my honest opinion.
@@Tooshi3Tom K24 with a turbo could be too much power as well, but with a proper aero... Should do it !
@@alexbra282 but most youtubers can't drive mate and TMP isn't exactly the easiest of tracks
O CANADA I would love to see a turbo 2 rotor build, that would be something new and fun. Mini FD running around the track.
i got a 99 NB and have been trying to figure out what to do with it because I made a mistake and got the California 2-cat edition which makes it impossible to get FI kit for. So i am gonna have to engine swap but I dont really want to do an LS, even the aluminum 4.8 is just too heavy for a miata imo. Think ive finally decided. Im gonna swap for a stock LTG and weld a box frame rollcage right into the bucket, and make a hard top coupe (welded frame to add rigidity to the body) using a rx7 FD rear window. Thatll give me room to move the seat back, and get more wheel well for a bigger set maybe 17 or 18's (to fit over bigger brakes) and I think ill put it all on porche gt3 911 aftermarket suspension
Anyone else notice that Moose was tightening it? 12:20 Delrin is a very slippery plastic, they use them for bearings often.
That inductive nut heater is indeed neat. Suspension and exhaust fasteners are the worst.
Id like to see the overall cost so far of this budget build
Sponsored parts, therefore zero dollars. haha
1st haha always wanted to do that.
Also got put ya boy Greg Peters from TheCarPassionChannel down for RUclipsr drive recommendation
Absolutely!!!! LIKE 👍 so this topic is bumped up!
5X racing is the literal bomb
That table of parts makes me so very happy. lol
Wonder what kind of shape the steering rack and tie rod ends are in?
Agree, it's wired they put so many good stuff and didn't change 20$ tie rods which is critical for steering 🤔🤔
Tyoma Kankou I thought about it again and figured they must have ruled that out when having the car lined up. A good alignment tech would have checked the wheels for any play.
Tightened the bolt instead of loosening it lol 6:25
The nut was already off, they were just trying to unseize it which can be done in either direction.
PB parts blaster. Get it and spray rusted bolts and leave it for an hour. Come back and 9 times out of 10 you can break it loose.
Can’t wait to see it on track!!
All it needs now is a LS engine and then we'll be on our way, talk about fun. Cheers !🇨🇦
Maybe replace the Chinese tyres with some PS4.....
Loving this series so far!
moose part had me dying laughin lol
Lol looks like me working on the back bolt of my rear lower control arms. Heat did nothing, then came the sawzall. Took me 2 days working off my back
Guess I got pretty lucky with my 92 accord. Not one bolt has been rusty or seized except the header studs
The door bushings are made of Nyloil UHMW
Self lubricating plastic.
Should have got a short shifter from flyin Miata man!!! Dam!
Looking forward to the next shakedown
Invite Draegast for the miata lap battle. he is a canadian gamer guy but does alot of driving games, would like to see if he could translate that skill to real life. not sure how close he is to Toronto though.
Definitely going to get the 5x racing door bossing.
Thanks for all your help Lander!
Speed Academy thank you guys for all the good content.
Same thing happened to my 91 civic, bolt get seized to the actual bushing, ended up having to cut the arm itself and get a new one
Makes me miss my old mazdaspeed Miata
I 'm beginning to want a mx5 /Maita. That induction heater made everything a lot easier.
I thought you need to lower the rear for a looser end? Anyway, love the build!
Thinking about getting a MX5, but they are quite expensive for me atm. Can't really afford spending 5k€ on a car right now and that would not even get me a good one.
2:30 you say those bolts are never been off but how did you put the coilovers in lol
The same thing happened to my sc400 my rear suspension I had to change all the bolts cuz of the great north rust
@speed acadamy Is R-Theory selling parts again? Last I heard on their Instagram they were on a hiatus. I really hope he's back to it. He makes great stuff & I'd like to purchase quite a few things for my Miata.
K swap this miata to properly adress the lack of power😆👍
Jou might just as well start with an s2000. The fun is in making what you have work.
@@jfv65 I'd take a Miata with a K over an S2K with a F any day.
why dont you guys use any penetrating fluid? like wd40/moovit/pb blaster/deep creep?
ONE MAKE I’m watching the video and asking the same thing. Why the heck wouldn’t you spray down all of the stubborn nuts and bolts before fighting with them?!
@@IDontHaveAVideo at least give it a try. that bolt heater is awesome though, but lube is life, even if it doesnt work, it will give you a fighting chance
@one make
Especially if it's a planned job. I start spraying a week before I touch it with a wrench.
PB blaster is the best.
Not to be THAT guy...But tyre choice is crucial on any track car...and i wouldn't rate Nankang imo..there fine budget road tires but yeah that where i would leave them.
They've tested nankangs vs others and actually performed better. While no its not the best all out tire, the value to performance is hard to beat.
@@verz22 There's a reason there known as Nankang ditch finders.
These guys are a perfect example of more money than sense.
What was the nut heater tool you used? BOLT BUSTER!
What was that bolt heater tool? Also, the ball joint separator tool? Much thanks!!!
Can I ask why do you need a specific name of those tools ( brands ) ?
Tools are listed in the description!
kia sportage 4.77 final drive, best $200 i ever spent on my miata
Heating tool come s in handy! Great content tho! The miata is gonna rip!
Hey guys, when installing the super pro bushings, does it matter the direction of the offset inner sleeve or does align shop adjust this after?
Just cut the cotter pins as close as possible and slap a socket on it. No need to extract them.
'Rusty'. That would be a 'very clean example' here in the UK! :(
Please give a link for that tool used to heat the nits please