Support d4a: driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/ Eibach pro kit for the MR2 AW11: amzn.to/2MNdqOm Koni shocks front for the MR2 AW11: amzn.to/2nTztdP Koni shocks rear for the MR2 AW11: amzn.to/2VQmtC0
Just wanted to say thank you. This was one of the first few projects I took on when I bought my AW11. While the online documentation was good to the point it only took me a few hours in total to rebuild all 4 struts, this video is indispensable. The only recommendation I would add is if you don't have a vice then break loose the large top nut that holds the strut in the tube loose while it's on the car. Otherwise fantastic video I love that there is finally a channel documenting how to upkeep this great model of car.
Rebuilding your struts is a great way to customize your suspension if can't afford or don't want coilovers. I use sw20 rear inserts in the front of my ae86 with Megan racing springs and some spacer for a nice stiff short stroke
I am not familiar with the MR2, but imports from the 70’s used this replaceable strut insert. Once removed, pore the oil out to measure. If your container has no graduations and the wet line on the strut insert is 1” below the top, note and recreate this amount. Prior to the early 70’s, motorcycles had bearings with zerks very hard to reach. I used a grease needle sold on a tool truck to depress the ball and grease the zerk. Later, I have used it to grease used bearings that once cleaned, had no defects. The skinny tip allowed for adding high quality grease between the bearings race to work in well. Perhaps better than new. The oil will stay more consistent over a wide range to temperatures while having less expansion hot that coolant or ATF. It is just my opinion as our service manual indicated 10W40 and CC’s/Oz to add. Certain rear drive vehicles have more flexibility on the front. With the top mount loose, place a large service bar over the lower control arm, yet under the pivot. We found the using a reasonable force (Caliper & sway bar disconnected and caliper supported) the strut still attached to the lower control arm will come out of the wheelhouse. The use of a suction gun w/longer hose attached could remove tube oil and cleaner. This saves time and eliminates the need from changes in chamber or caster adjustments, if applicable. ASE master - retired
The grinding down / extra material was good to point out. I never knew that. I would’ve probably thought I was clever and beating the system and done it anyway. 🤣 and complained to people they gave me the wrong size. Thanks
I bought some used red 'lowered springs', for an 'sw20' they act much the same as yours, but then I searched for the inserts and found a set of brand-new rear struts on a clearance sale, genuine OEM and at only $25 each, complete with inserts, brand-new. There are some benefits of having an old but not really old car, 1997- beams, I can't afford to buy new replacements for everything, and how am I going to learn, not with bolt on's and other people doing the work, I rebuild everything I can, I'm doing my cooling system first, suspension second, engine upgrade and strengthen the hell out of my 4 speed auto gearbox, then next, spray paint and panel repair, not my first car re-build but my first sports car upgrade. going non turbo 300hp auto with manual shift, it's the best way to change gears by far, all the best and fast cars are manual-auto, speed, cornering here we come. I live at the bottom of a big mountain. Your videos are a great help.
So unassuming with the insert and black springs! Usually sports struts are yellow or red or some other gaudy "high performance" colour. These look stock but should perform terrifically.
4 years later, how do you like the springs that you used? I believe in one of your other videos you said you didn't like them that much. How do they compare to the stock springs?
Excellent explanation. When you put the strut back in your car, would you please give as much detail about maintaining the original cam angle? I see where you were pointing, but couldn't see your cam angle mark during disassembly.
Do you mean the camber angle? I didn't mark the original camber angle on the bolt for two reasons. Reason one is they were all adjusted all the way for maximum negative camber by the previous owner, reason two is that the original camber adjustment bolts are stupid. Doing an alignment with them is a pain, because the markings don't really correspond to 1, 2 degrees etc. they are just marks and you have to adjust, check and repeat until you get the desired angle, which most shops that do alignments will simply flat out refuse to do. So what I will be doing is getting some aftermarket camber bolts to remedy that issue and then getting a full alignment once everything is finally put together and the car on the road, which I hope will be within my lifetime :) lol
Your dust cover should well exctacly fit to shaft so minimize dust contact to the shaft,in my opinion it is the most important for longer life time for the strut...
I was just about to get to the suspension on my AW11. The shocks currently in there are failing and the car bounces like an old Cadillac when going over bumps in a parking lot lol. I think I'll go with the route you took and get Koni yellows with Eibach springs. Also, depending on how your car sounds when you're done with the bike carb conversion, I think I may also switch to carbureted. My car has never been able to idle lower than 1400 RPM without wanting to die if I turn the AC on and have the compressor going. So it's either, AC off and I can idle at 1000 RPM, or adjust the idle screw and idle at 1400 RPM - so that with the AC on it idles around 800-1200 RPM. I think going carbureted would be easier to manage than some of the crazy ECU options out there and going coil-on-plug, distributorless, etc. while maintaining EFI.
Hey there! This setup is really a tried and tested route, and I have yet to hear anything negative about it. It strikes a really nice balance between sporty handling and decent comfort. It's a great all rounder, plus it's really reliable and easy to service if anything goes wrong. When it comes to the bike carb conversion, as you said, it's best to wait and see how it goes :) Getting the stock system to work properly after 30 years is sometimes next to impossible. This was one of the main reasons why I decided to go with bike carbs. The notion of getting rid of all the stock junk like the afm, and the wax pellet throttle body horror, the clickety clackety t-vis and others, was simply far too tempting.
driving 4 answers You and I are of the same mindset there. I hate the AFM, the horrible IACV with its unreliable wax slug, and the vacuum system for TVIS, etc. I'm finding your videos to be quite enjoyable, so thank you again for making them!
Jeff Reeves I don't know ow what you're talking about but I had my 85 mr2 since 2000 after my dad rebuild the engine and never had a problem with the car. I don't know what clickery clack he is talking about. My mr2 has been the most reliable car I have ever had. I got so bored of it I tried selling it once but no one came because it doesn't look pretty. Now I need a new clutch because I have been driving it forever and enjoy the heck out of it. By the way the original springs at least on mine were soft. I got the eibach you mentioned and they are good for mountain turning but not for long trips. But at least on Thursday I turn instead of going straight like the originals.
I know this is a much older video, but if you see this and you remember. How did you get the rear top nut for the strut torqued to spec? The Toyota book says it must be torqued to 54 lb-ft, but it just keeps spinning the hat. Please if you got any ideas.
Thank you! I have been trying to find replacement struts for my 1995 Infiniti Q45. I cant find them anywhere. Do you think I can rebuild them with the koni shocks and the parts you showed? I have not removed them from the car yet. When you rebuild a strut are there specific koni parts for each car model, or are they universal.
I bought new struts, new mounts and bought compressor and did the job my self twice. After I went for a drive test, my problem was finish, except now, there a boing noise on the driver side when I'm turning to the max...Maybe I put the coul upside down, will check it out. Any comments?
Excellent, but I have a problem with rear struct and shock I bought, after installation and when I fix the tire and jack it down, the stud shoot up creating lot of gap between the nut and the body of my truck, is there a way to adjust the stud down to make it firm to the body of my truck
Spring doesn't absorb bumps and other imperfections. It keeps te wheel in contact with the road. Shock absorber absorbs bumps :) anyway keep it up, love your videos :D
Technically speaking that’s the same thing... when a pothole arrives the spring conforms the the road... keeping wheel in touch with road, no? Makes life easier on the shock absorber, ami wrong?
Does the shaft of the shock absorber twist in its housing? Trying to figure out if the shock absorber is designed to do this - the shaft of the shock is bolted to the top mount - which stays put when the vehicle turns but the shock housing is bolted to the hub carrier - which rotates. Is that the norm? Thank you.
Were those "noname" springs by any chance styleauto ones? found some new old stock of those for sale and they look very similar, too bad the Eibachs aren't being sold anymore.
I would think that the spring would be installed with the more compressed parts of the coils being closer to the top hat, but maybe I'm wrong. Does the spring orientation matter in this case? I looked up an MR2 oem strut MK1 AW11 and it looks like the spring is upside down compared to yours.
The writing on springs always face right way up so his springs are del upside down but so was the previous red springs which he probs copied the orientation of
I have a 88 mr2 trying to rebuild I just took out the front driver side strut definitely needs rebuilding no rubber at all were did you get your parts no one in my area has them
My front left struts shocker give sound when it gets wet, I gave money and changed the boots with aftermarket item but I still has sound on bumps when I drive, right side is fixed with the boot installation but not the left one, it only starts giving sound on bumps while it rains and gets wet
I had no idea you could remove the shock from the housing as they always sell the entire strut with the shock inside as 1 unit- I dnt even think they sell them separately so what a waste that we have to buy them the way we do. Only the rear shocks of most cars are sold as separately, especially hatch backs since they are torsion beam set-ups
Well, you actually can't remove the shock from the housing in most modern cars, and it's made that way on purpose. Sometimes the auto industry, like any industry is a bit hypocritical, talking about green technologies while also being wasteful in other less prominent areas with the aim of more profit. This shock is from my 1987 mr2 and you will see that the shock and housing can be separated on many cars from this era and before, but already in the 90s this became non-standard and it's extremely rare on cars made after the 2000s.
Hello my friend were can I the parts for my Mazda MX5 mk3 NC model and which shocks do use I would like to use the cheapest but best option to refit a bad shock
Great video and great channel. I unfortunately just discoverer it now. I have a question, the dust seals, are they Toyota parts? Could you pass me the part number please? I have an 1978 Celica GT Liftback, where I'm rebuilding the front suspension now (not a lot of parts available anymore) and those MR2 dust seals seem to have the right size, hahaha. Many thanks in advance!
Oh I didn't know about this website. Great tip, thank you very much! Btw while browsing on that website I found 7zap.com/en/ It has all the part numbers as well plus very nice drawings for every assembly. Keep up the good work and luck to you and your MR2!!
Hi I've recently done my steering and front suspension on my 1995 Toyota corolla (RSA) which has a similar setup to your MR2 but it still has the same knocking sound over bumps and potholes especially more on the left hand side (gearbox side) I've replaced steering rack ends, all rubbers on the control arms I jus haven't got a clue as to what could be the prob, any help
Yes, stock strut housings. They are inserts designed for the stock strut housings. For models where the cartridge cannot be removed from the housing, Koni has complete strut assemblies.
@@d4a thanks, thats what i thought. Rebuilding the engine and figured id do some work on the suspension while waiting for the machine shop and for parts to ship
Dam, where can i find the instructions on the details you provided when placing ATF, Engine Oil, or coolant in the strut housing because i thought if the konis already were prefilled that just placing the tube shock inside should be fine
Hi man! I hope you can answer me😜 I was able to get the rear insulator parts (48258-16010) but the fronts are no longer available. Question is: could I install rear insulators at front? Are they really that different? Thanks!!
Honestly I don't remember, I feel like I used the rears on the fronts too. But you can try the part numbers on ebay or somewhere, someone might have new old stock left. But it's likely ok to put rears on the front as long as they cover the surface properly and aren't loose or something else that looks obviously off.
@@d4a I've tried everywhere; ebay, Toyota pages, Megazip, etc and all show that the fronts are discontinued. I'll give a try anyways. Thanks man! Love your channel!
hi i was rebuilding my front strut and i accidentally broke the gland nut without even budging :(. is there anything you can suggest that i do? thank you for your future response
I can and I eventually might, but right now this is a car that I plan to take on long drives and probably road trips on a lot of different roads, so comfort and longevity is a huge factor. Easy replacement and servicing too. But I will likely give coilovers a go eventually.
Hi ! How are you today, My Name is MR.H.WOODS .I have a 1980 Dodge colt 1.6 w ac .how can you tell ! What size cartridge , i will need for my ! Strut . I NEED A LITTLE HELP.THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.
Does anyone know where to buy that same lowering springs kit for aw11 mr2 I can’t find it anywhere the link he put doesn’t have them anymore they only have have them for the sw20 platform or atleast a similar high quality lowering springs kit would be nice
Hi i have maruti suzuki vitara brezza when rear left side tyre impact on small pot hole on speed of 30 km/ hr impact feel on body like shocker not working but i changed both coil spring and shocker what to do
You want to rebuild them? That can only be done by specialized shops and a rebuild is very expensive. Conventional rebuilds that refill the shocks with oil and replace seals will not yield good results with Koni. It's honestly best, easier and maybe even cheaper to just buy new ones.
@@kilnprabu It depends on the strut but sometimes it's a lot of work with very mixed results. It's a much better idea to buy new shocks than try to rebuild something that isn't rebuildable.
Support d4a: driving-4-answers-shop.fourthwall.com/
Eibach pro kit for the MR2 AW11: amzn.to/2MNdqOm
Koni shocks front for the MR2 AW11: amzn.to/2nTztdP
Koni shocks rear for the MR2 AW11: amzn.to/2VQmtC0
Just wanted to say thank you. This was one of the first few projects I took on when I bought my AW11. While the online documentation was good to the point it only took me a few hours in total to rebuild all 4 struts, this video is indispensable. The only recommendation I would add is if you don't have a vice then break loose the large top nut that holds the strut in the tube loose while it's on the car. Otherwise fantastic video I love that there is finally a channel documenting how to upkeep this great model of car.
Honestly, the best free information on the internet. Love this channel.
Rebuilding your struts is a great way to customize your suspension if can't afford or don't want coilovers. I use sw20 rear inserts in the front of my ae86 with Megan racing springs and some spacer for a nice stiff short stroke
I am not familiar with the MR2, but imports from the 70’s used this replaceable strut insert. Once removed, pore the oil out to measure. If your container has no graduations and the wet line on the strut insert is 1” below the top, note and recreate this amount. Prior to the early 70’s, motorcycles had bearings with zerks very hard to reach. I used a grease needle sold on a tool truck to depress the ball and grease the zerk. Later, I have used it to grease used bearings that once cleaned, had no defects. The skinny tip allowed for adding high quality grease between the bearings race to work in well. Perhaps better than new. The oil will stay more consistent over a wide range to temperatures while having less expansion hot that coolant or ATF. It is just my opinion as our service manual indicated 10W40 and CC’s/Oz to add.
Certain rear drive vehicles have more flexibility on the front. With the top mount loose, place a large service bar over the lower control arm, yet under the pivot. We found the using a reasonable force (Caliper & sway bar disconnected and caliper supported) the strut still attached to the lower control arm will come out of the wheelhouse. The use of a suction gun w/longer hose attached could remove tube oil and cleaner. This saves time and eliminates the need from changes in chamber or caster adjustments, if applicable.
ASE master - retired
Great too know. How too rebuild struts .just bought some for my mercury. I saved the old ones too rebuild them later. Keep up the good work. THANKS.
Nice work and choices. I have Koni yellows on my MR2 Spyder; you will be pleased. Note that they adjust only the rebound, not compression.
The grinding down / extra material was good to point out. I never knew that. I would’ve probably thought I was clever and beating the system and done it anyway. 🤣 and complained to people they gave me the wrong size. Thanks
Perfect,...its very clear explanation regarding spring & shock absorber system
Comprehensive and informative. Excellent! Thanks for sharing.
I bought some used red 'lowered springs', for an 'sw20' they act much the same as yours, but then I searched for the inserts and found a set of brand-new rear struts on a clearance sale, genuine OEM and at only $25 each, complete with inserts, brand-new. There are some benefits of having an old but not really old car, 1997- beams, I can't afford to buy new replacements for everything, and how am I going to learn, not with bolt on's and other people doing the work, I rebuild everything I can, I'm doing my cooling system first, suspension second, engine upgrade and strengthen the hell out of my 4 speed auto gearbox, then next, spray paint and panel repair, not my first car re-build but my first sports car upgrade. going non turbo 300hp auto with manual shift, it's the best way to change gears by far, all the best and fast cars are manual-auto, speed, cornering here we come. I live at the bottom of a big mountain. Your videos are a great help.
D4A Channel !!!!! Let's goooooo !
You saved me quite the headache. Thank you!
thanks for sharing bro, all of ur videos are excellent, your way of explaining technical terms is awesome.
So unassuming with the insert and black springs!
Usually sports struts are yellow or red or some other gaudy "high performance" colour. These look stock but should perform terrifically.
nice video! I came here to find out more about all the strut components. You cleared it up very informatively.
Hey, great video. I know it’s hard to set up all those different angles that you were doing.
I have celica 1990 I did not find the front shock just back shockers, I think you have been helpful thanks
4 years later, how do you like the springs that you used? I believe in one of your other videos you said you didn't like them that much. How do they compare to the stock springs?
Excellent explanation. When you put the strut back in your car, would you please give as much detail about maintaining the original cam angle? I see where you were pointing, but couldn't see your cam angle mark during disassembly.
Do you mean the camber angle? I didn't mark the original camber angle on the bolt for two reasons. Reason one is they were all adjusted all the way for maximum negative camber by the previous owner, reason two is that the original camber adjustment bolts are stupid. Doing an alignment with them is a pain, because the markings don't really correspond to 1, 2 degrees etc. they are just marks and you have to adjust, check and repeat until you get the desired angle, which most shops that do alignments will simply flat out refuse to do. So what I will be doing is getting some aftermarket camber bolts to remedy that issue and then getting a full alignment once everything is finally put together and the car on the road, which I hope will be within my lifetime :) lol
Ahhh. Thanks! Wheel alignment seems to be more art than science!
Thanks for sharing. Very instructive..👍😎
Awesome videos 👍🏻
very informative very good , very good job 😀
Thanks for the best way
Your dust cover should well exctacly fit to shaft so minimize dust contact to the shaft,in my opinion it is the most important for longer life time for the strut...
Thank you for the video 👏👏👏
Woow, u make a simple safety with a wood bar, nice video buddy, keep rool wirh another new video.
I was just about to get to the suspension on my AW11. The shocks currently in there are failing and the car bounces like an old Cadillac when going over bumps in a parking lot lol. I think I'll go with the route you took and get Koni yellows with Eibach springs. Also, depending on how your car sounds when you're done with the bike carb conversion, I think I may also switch to carbureted. My car has never been able to idle lower than 1400 RPM without wanting to die if I turn the AC on and have the compressor going. So it's either, AC off and I can idle at 1000 RPM, or adjust the idle screw and idle at 1400 RPM - so that with the AC on it idles around 800-1200 RPM. I think going carbureted would be easier to manage than some of the crazy ECU options out there and going coil-on-plug, distributorless, etc. while maintaining EFI.
Hey there! This setup is really a tried and tested route, and I have yet to hear anything negative about it. It strikes a really nice balance between sporty handling and decent comfort. It's a great all rounder, plus it's really reliable and easy to service if anything goes wrong.
When it comes to the bike carb conversion, as you said, it's best to wait and see how it goes :) Getting the stock system to work properly after 30 years is sometimes next to impossible. This was one of the main reasons why I decided to go with bike carbs. The notion of getting rid of all the stock junk like the afm, and the wax pellet throttle body horror, the clickety clackety t-vis and others, was simply far too tempting.
driving 4 answers You and I are of the same mindset there. I hate the AFM, the horrible IACV with its unreliable wax slug, and the vacuum system for TVIS, etc. I'm finding your videos to be quite enjoyable, so thank you again for making them!
Jeff Reeves I don't know ow what you're talking about but I had my 85 mr2 since 2000 after my dad rebuild the engine and never had a problem with the car. I don't know what clickery clack he is talking about. My mr2 has been the most reliable car I have ever had. I got so bored of it I tried selling it once but no one came because it doesn't look pretty. Now I need a new clutch because I have been driving it forever and enjoy the heck out of it. By the way the original springs at least on mine were soft. I got the eibach you mentioned and they are good for mountain turning but not for long trips. But at least on Thursday I turn instead of going straight like the originals.
Hello, I enjoyed your informative video. Well done.
I have a Toyota starlet and cannot find front strut.can I rebuild them somehow?
Thank you
Thanks 4 that tip
Thanks a lot for your tutorial
I hope you kept the old strut insert housings, I kept all 4 of mine and they are THE BEST cheater bars I own
These ARE my old housings :)
driving 4 answers I meant the stock steel sleeve inserts, inside the housing. they're great tools
Logan Alcantara Oh, I kept one of those. Thanks for the tip :)
I know this is a much older video, but if you see this and you remember. How did you get the rear top nut for the strut torqued to spec? The Toyota book says it must be torqued to 54 lb-ft, but it just keeps spinning the hat. Please if you got any ideas.
Հալալա եխպայր,լավ րոլիկա,🇦🇲👍💯%BRAVO
It’s called a strut insert most 70’s to late 80’seven some early 90’s Japanese car have this style of strut
Thank you! I have been trying to find replacement struts for my 1995 Infiniti Q45. I cant find them anywhere. Do you think I can rebuild them with the koni shocks and the parts you showed? I have not removed them from the car yet. When you rebuild a strut are there specific koni parts for each car model, or are they universal.
Shouldn't the plastic dust protector be on the inside?
I bought new struts, new mounts and bought compressor and did the job my self twice. After I went for a drive test, my problem was finish, except now, there a boing noise on the driver side when I'm turning to the max...Maybe I put the coul upside down, will check it out. Any comments?
Dumb question, how do u know how NOT to install spring upside down?.
Great informative video, thanks.
Forsthose who were wondering 2001 mazda protoje strut cartrages cannot be removed from the strut housing
A lot of cars can’t for the past 25 years?
Hi...
Recovered shock absorber is sold in the united states? I work at one of the largest recoverers in Brazil.
Excellent, but I have a problem with rear struct and shock I bought, after installation and when I fix the tire and jack it down, the stud shoot up creating lot of gap between the nut and the body of my truck, is there a way to adjust the stud down to make it firm to the body of my truck
Spring doesn't absorb bumps and other imperfections. It keeps te wheel in contact with the road. Shock absorber absorbs bumps :) anyway keep it up, love your videos :D
Technically speaking that’s the same thing... when a pothole arrives the spring conforms the the road... keeping wheel in touch with road, no? Makes life easier on the shock absorber, ami wrong?
How much oil should be put inside the shock absorber?
Much respect it's very clear.sir
Great show it was great
You don't happen to have the part numbers for the spring insulators & dust seal?
Why you didn't add gas or air in side the shocks absorber ??
Nice video. I would not say it is rebuilding, but replacing the cartridge.
In fairly certain that the actual koni shock absorbers can be rebuilt with new seals and repressurized
Does the shaft of the shock absorber twist in its housing? Trying to figure out if the shock absorber is designed to do this - the shaft of the shock is bolted to the top mount - which stays put when the vehicle turns but the shock housing is bolted to the hub carrier - which rotates. Is that the norm? Thank you.
Were those "noname" springs by any chance styleauto ones? found some new old stock of those for sale and they look very similar, too bad the Eibachs aren't being sold anymore.
Can you rebuild an air strut assembly like those used on jaguars
I would think that the spring would be installed with the more compressed parts of the coils being closer to the top hat, but maybe I'm wrong. Does the spring orientation matter in this case? I looked up an MR2 oem strut MK1 AW11 and it looks like the spring is upside down compared to yours.
The writing on springs always face right way up so his springs are del upside down but so was the previous red springs which he probs copied the orientation of
nice video do you have any video with the rebuild,restoration or a conversion of the front suspension and struts for a honda logo 2000 model GH3?
I have a 88 mr2 trying to rebuild I just took out the front driver side strut definitely needs rebuilding no rubber at all were did you get your parts no one in my area has them
My front left struts shocker give sound when it gets wet, I gave money and changed the boots with aftermarket item but I still has sound on bumps when I drive, right side is fixed with the boot installation but not the left one, it only starts giving sound on bumps while it rains and gets wet
After removal/installation, did you have to get the alignment redone?
Yes definitely
No rubber bed for the bottom of spring?
I had no idea you could remove the shock from the housing as they always sell the entire strut with the shock inside as 1 unit- I dnt even think they sell them separately so what a waste that we have to buy them the way we do. Only the rear shocks of most cars are sold as separately, especially hatch backs since they are torsion beam set-ups
Well, you actually can't remove the shock from the housing in most modern cars, and it's made that way on purpose. Sometimes the auto industry, like any industry is a bit hypocritical, talking about green technologies while also being wasteful in other less prominent areas with the aim of more profit. This shock is from my 1987 mr2 and you will see that the shock and housing can be separated on many cars from this era and before, but already in the 90s this became non-standard and it's extremely rare on cars made after the 2000s.
Thanks for sharing
What speeds were you driving at to feel uncomfortable around corners?
Can I change my struts oil to make my stock struts stiffer by thicker viscosity oil?!? Is it safe??
I dont get it so now its okay to use a torque wrench on the top nut?
Hello my friend were can I the parts for my Mazda MX5 mk3 NC model and which shocks do use I would like to use the cheapest but best option to refit a bad shock
Great video and great channel. I unfortunately just discoverer it now. I have a question, the dust seals, are they Toyota parts? Could you pass me the part number please? I have an 1978 Celica GT Liftback, where I'm rebuilding the front suspension now (not a lot of parts available anymore) and those MR2 dust seals seem to have the right size, hahaha. Many thanks in advance!
Michel Guenther Thank you. I recommend this website: toyodiy.com. All the numbers are easily found there.
Oh I didn't know about this website. Great tip, thank you very much! Btw while browsing on that website I found 7zap.com/en/ It has all the part numbers as well plus very nice drawings for every assembly. Keep up the good work and luck to you and your MR2!!
Thanks great video
Do you have to do a wheel alignment after you change struts?
Yes because you upset the camber
@@d4a thanks. Omg if I knew .. I put on 4 brand new tires weeks ago n did an alignment. Dam and alignment cost 😫😫
I'm planning to rebuild my Tribute struts ?
Any thoughts would help yah or nah !
Thx ahead of time ROBB
Hi I've recently done my steering and front suspension on my 1995 Toyota corolla (RSA) which has a similar setup to your MR2 but it still has the same knocking sound over bumps and potholes especially more on the left hand side (gearbox side) I've replaced steering rack ends, all rubbers on the control arms I jus haven't got a clue as to what could be the prob, any help
Did you take a look at the sway bar rubber bushings and steering rack rubber bushings?
@@d4a yes I have I've changed all of that as well and nothing it's still making a knocking sound
Thank you so much.
Can '88 Cadillac Allante struts be rebuilt as such?
Are those the stock strut housings? I'm wondering if these konies will work on the stock suspension and I will have to is drop them in
Yes, stock strut housings. They are inserts designed for the stock strut housings. For models where the cartridge cannot be removed from the housing, Koni has complete strut assemblies.
@@d4a thanks, thats what i thought. Rebuilding the engine and figured id do some work on the suspension while waiting for the machine shop and for parts to ship
You forgot to put the seal on the bearing!
what if the strut cartridge cannot be removed. what if there is no nut
Dam, where can i find the instructions on the details you provided when placing ATF, Engine Oil, or coolant in the strut housing because i thought if the konis already were prefilled that just placing the tube shock inside should be fine
Lime
Yeah I didn't do that on mine, in the exact same setup. Now I'm worried...
lol
Don't worry, it won't cause a disaster or anything. The strut insert will probably rust a bit at the bottom, but it isn't the end of the world.
The atf is placed in the housing, i.e. outside the strut inserts. I havent messed with the inserts themselves at all :)
Yea i understand but where'd you find manual for this though? or did you just prefer it this way
Must have been really cold out there when you did this video.
Hi man! I hope you can answer me😜
I was able to get the rear insulator parts (48258-16010) but the fronts are no longer available. Question is: could I install rear insulators at front? Are they really that different?
Thanks!!
Honestly I don't remember, I feel like I used the rears on the fronts too. But you can try the part numbers on ebay or somewhere, someone might have new old stock left. But it's likely ok to put rears on the front as long as they cover the surface properly and aren't loose or something else that looks obviously off.
@@d4a I've tried everywhere; ebay, Toyota pages, Megazip, etc and all show that the fronts are discontinued. I'll give a try anyways.
Thanks man! Love your channel!
Excelent thanks!
hi i was rebuilding my front strut and i accidentally broke the gland nut without even budging :(. is there anything you can suggest that i do? thank you for your future response
How exactly did you break it?
what kind of oil i can put in strut
Thank you
This seems more like a strut replacement that a rebuild...
Question my 1992 Supra TEMS Tokico Illunmi Struts failed after 600 miles , one of them in rear, is there anyway to rebuild it?
Can't you get coilovers for that mr2
I can and I eventually might, but right now this is a car that I plan to take on long drives and probably road trips on a lot of different roads, so comfort and longevity is a huge factor. Easy replacement and servicing too. But I will likely give coilovers a go eventually.
driving 4 answers ok was just wondering
Love the build as always
Hi ! How are you today, My Name is MR.H.WOODS .I have a 1980 Dodge colt 1.6 w ac .how can you tell ! What size cartridge , i will need for my ! Strut . I NEED A LITTLE HELP.THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME.
thats an awesome ass logo!
Does anyone know where to buy that same lowering springs kit for aw11 mr2 I can’t find it anywhere the link he put doesn’t have them anymore they only have have them for the sw20 platform or atleast a similar high quality lowering springs kit would be nice
Hi i have maruti suzuki vitara brezza when rear left side tyre impact on small pot hole on speed of 30 km/ hr impact feel on body like shocker not working but i changed both coil spring and shocker what to do
Hey what kind of oil I have to use for softer suspension ??
The oil has nothing to do with softness, it's there only for cooling and anti-corrosion.
@@d4a can you please explain me what can I do for yellow koni
You want to rebuild them? That can only be done by specialized shops and a rebuild is very expensive. Conventional rebuilds that refill the shocks with oil and replace seals will not yield good results with Koni. It's honestly best, easier and maybe even cheaper to just buy new ones.
Hi where did u buy strut cartridge
I bought the Koni strutrs from Karaszy in Hungary.
sir is it possible to recondition sealed shock absorber (fiat Punto)
I wouldn't do it honestly
@@d4a why? will there be any issues
@@kilnprabu It depends on the strut but sometimes it's a lot of work with very mixed results. It's a much better idea to buy new shocks than try to rebuild something that isn't rebuildable.
@@d4a ok thank you sir
Hi quick question can anyone tell me if in UK can someone repair car rear shock absorber?
D4A I've always wondered which part of the world you are from?
Europe, more precisely the Balkans at the moment.
Looks like a cool place to live. Very diverse as well.
Like anywhere else in the world, it has both its upsides and downsides. :) Where are you from?
driving 4 answers from the Caribbean.Best thing about it, you don't freeze here 😆😎😝
basshead420 Oh man how I envy you.
Adding hydraulic-oil has no effect on function of the Shock absorber !😄
Drink check
Food check
i can watch now :)
Hope you had a good time :)
driving 4 answers just like always ;)
You compressed that spring WAY too much. One day one of them is going to pop and break your face. Unreal!
🤦♂️
Compras todo el set armado en autozone y te quitas de pedos!!!
So, Ive to guess that your old Koni was bad therefore you,re using a new one...
Yup, it was very worn out
Wonder what girls are looking at this 🤔.