If you only have a small spot, like where you spot welded something, drilled a hole w dull bit, or ground a slot, drop a little calcium/lime/rust remover on the discoloration and brush the terminals of a regular 9 volt battery through the solution, sometimes a layer or two of paper towel helps keep the solution in place. It boils white and will remove discoloration without ruining the finish like a steel brush or a wheel might. This works for me on small spots!
@benton hester Thank you!!! Had an SS fascia piece for a hifi project that got discolored on a corner. Was going to make a paste with pcb etch acid, but used dabs of jenolite rust remover instead. Worked 100%. No DC current required. You saved me lots of hassle.
I work for Walter Surface Technologies. Great video and info for people to choose their preferred method. The 305 is expensive, but if you are not doing Alu, SS, or Ti. The Surfox Turbo is the way to go since it's SS Only. However, if you are on a budget and in business on a budget. The Surfox Mini can do anything the 305 can do, just not on an industrial scale. Alu, SS, Ti cleaning, Etching, Marking and Electro Polishing. Also the 205 and 305 have a small plug in the front where you can tie a 2nd wand in and have a 2nd cleaning options. Again thanks.
I've seen other videos where some have made an electro brush using a regular 12V automotive battery charger, there's probably other ways and different chargers that could be used, maybe even a mobile phone charger but some make a brush with carbon fiber or carbon paper etc etc and I've seen a couple made out of a piece of stainless steel wrapped in something like a sock or other cotton and then I believe the negative cable hooks to the workpiece and positive to the brush wand and then you brush it like you were doing in this video. I don't remember the liquid solutions that were used right off, I believe there's different kinds people come up with like citric acid for one. Anyway, I haven't tried it yet but I plan to soon.
During welding, carbon can combine with the chromium in the Ss which will reduce its rust prevention at the weld. This is why welding rod will be 316L. The L means lower carbon to help with this…. The most common cause though would be if the weld was contaminated with a sanding disc used on carbon steel or carbon steel wire wheel. If you think a bad wire wheel was used to clean the weld then you should use pickle paste to remove the rust without abrasives that would spread it. After that clean abrasives can be used if needed, and final step would be to passivate the weld area. There’s a few chemicals for that, you’ll need to do a little research online. Good luck to you
![Miter Polishing Square Tube - Stainless Steel [With Basic Equipment]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f_fRDTHQaJg/mqdefault.jpg)
If you only have a small spot, like where you spot welded something, drilled a hole w dull bit, or ground a slot, drop a little calcium/lime/rust remover on the discoloration and brush the terminals of a regular 9 volt battery through the solution, sometimes a layer or two of paper towel helps keep the solution in place. It boils white and will remove discoloration without ruining the finish like a steel brush or a wheel might. This works for me on small spots!
Interesting, I’ll try it out!
@benton hester Thank you!!! Had an SS fascia piece for a hifi project that got discolored on a corner.
Was going to make a paste with pcb etch acid, but used dabs of jenolite rust remover instead. Worked 100%. No DC current required. You saved me lots of hassle.
I work for Walter Surface Technologies. Great video and info for people to choose their preferred method. The 305 is expensive, but if you are not doing Alu, SS, or Ti. The Surfox Turbo is the way to go since it's SS Only. However, if you are on a budget and in business on a budget. The Surfox Mini can do anything the 305 can do, just not on an industrial scale. Alu, SS, Ti cleaning, Etching, Marking and Electro Polishing. Also the 205 and 305 have a small plug in the front where you can tie a 2nd wand in and have a 2nd cleaning options. Again thanks.
Awesome suggestions for the viewers. Thank You
Awesome video. pretty informative and straight forward.
Glad you liked it @alientech51
I've seen other videos where some have made an electro brush using a regular 12V automotive battery charger, there's probably other ways and different chargers that could be used, maybe even a mobile phone charger but some make a brush with carbon fiber or carbon paper etc etc and I've seen a couple made out of a piece of stainless steel wrapped in something like a sock or other cotton and then I believe the negative cable hooks to the workpiece and positive to the brush wand and then you brush it like you were doing in this video. I don't remember the liquid solutions that were used right off, I believe there's different kinds people come up with like citric acid for one. Anyway, I haven't tried it yet but I plan to soon.
Let’s us know how it goes
Thats great information. Thanks for sharing. I like how you always mention safety. And you have awesome skills and tools. Sweet setup.
Thanks. One day I’ll get around to cleaning the shop up a little bit. I should say the bigger machinery is at my workplace on my off time though.
Very good l like this both of three methods 👍🤲
Thanks Mohd for watching, commenting, and subscribing. Have a good day
❤️
I don't do any welding but that seems like so good information. Keep it up! Looking forward to your next video.
Thanks Married Man Woodworking!
Can you just paint it silver with like a metal silver paint or something?
I have stainless bolt with already coloring to yellow/gold, can i use HCL for turn to chrome/original colour?
I’d probably just use a stainless wire brush
Chlorides atack stainless. So no to the hydrochloric acid. Phosphoric works with current.
What is the name of gel which u used in second method thanx
The product I used was compound 302. There’s other brands out there and probably some stronger
Is it safe to use as it has HF...😮
Keep it up for next video❤️
If using a stainless hand brush, it works best while the weld is still warm.
For sure, thanks for watching Richard!
I technical question, I have rust appearing in the welds of my stainless steel tank. What was the cause of this?
Is the fabricator the cause of the rusting in the welds?
During welding, carbon can combine with the chromium in the Ss which will reduce its rust prevention at the weld. This is why welding rod will be 316L. The L means lower carbon to help with this…. The most common cause though would be if the weld was contaminated with a sanding disc used on carbon steel or carbon steel wire wheel. If you think a bad wire wheel was used to clean the weld then you should use pickle paste to remove the rust without abrasives that would spread it. After that clean abrasives can be used if needed, and final step would be to passivate the weld area. There’s a few chemicals for that, you’ll need to do a little research online. Good luck to you
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman thanks for the professional insight!!!!
The fabricator may not have passivated the welds afterwards, another possibility.
Nice
Maxman??
I support the Max community
The next time we are waiting for drying, maybe you could sing us a little tune?
Yes. Taking requests
First aid for skin alergy
Ya I’m not a doctor but rinsing with water to neutralize would not hurt