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Thanks for watching to the end Tony!

Just regular 3M

Possibly, you’ll want to check out the part number on the post flow board

​@TheMoonlightCraftsman The only # i see printed on the board is next to the connection terminals (039447) ? Would that be it.

​@@TheMoonlightCraftsman The part # from the Miller manual is 034836. It specifies it is a 0-60 sec 120v timer.

044723 is the part number that has been tested. If it has 2 ac terminals, a com terminal and an NC terminal it should work but I can’t guarantee it. Could only offer a refund with return if it doesn’t work

​@TheMoonlightCraftsman It has an A.C, N.O, Common, N.C,& A, termanals.

Dynafile which is the skinny belt sander, I think it’s dinasher is the round belt sander or burnishing tool for the grain on flat surfaces. And of course just regular grinder. I have some other videos that you might find useful on the topic as well

Probably 120

@@TheMoonlightCraftsman thank you

I appreciate you watching Paul

Avoid it if you can. Like designing the seam at the sink so you have several inches not to polish. You can never get it to perfectly match the factory brush. But to reduce the method down grind weld with grinder 120 grit scratches same direction as grain, use grinder with red conditioning disc to remove 120 grit scratches, take a burnishing tool with red conditioning wheel and put grain back in, possibly blend with scotch brite hand pad after that

316L rod

@@TheMoonlightCraftsman 316l rod. is this 304 stainless sheet here? i just got back into tig welding. ive welded aluminum and steel, but never stainless steel. i’m trying to figure out the whole world of stainless steel welding and sand buff polishing.

I use 316L on 304 and 316. This is 304 in the video

No after

Zinc is not magnetic

yo

The epoxy?

Sure. Jaden@themoonlightcraftsman.com

Thanks for watching to the end my friend

Austénico. 304 es estándar de la industria

Thank you for the kind words sir

This is 14ga because there was a sheet that came to where I work without protective plastic on it so I got a deal on it. 16ga is what I would use normally

Going good. About 55-60 amps

@@TheMoonlightCraftsman thanks! New subscriber🫡😎

obrigado senhor

Custom sink

Getting a little better. Thanks RoadTripvia

304

Hey you have to cut some corners somewhere. They match the walls. Thank you sir

Thank you sir

Thank you good sir. Where are you from?

Thank you good sir. Thank you for watching and commenting!

Thanks brother

I think this is all 16ga but 14ga works good too

If it requires a seam and there’s enough money in the job I would say buy .06inch thick copper sheet half-hard. You can still bend half hard copper without cracking it. After you weld the seam you can polish it and hammer as needed on the bottom side while the top is sitting on a flat hard table. Where the weld is will be soft so you’ll have some flexibility there. I’ve bought some of this material from Farmers Copper before, they are out of Texas and have some good info on copper on their website

Thank you man! Definitely going to try and get something close to 14ga. Didn’t know I had to get it half hard farmers copper is selling me hard material I’m sure that would crack? So it has to at least be half -hard right? Thank you again! Great info !

I’m pretty sure fully hard will crack when bent

You want deoxidized copper tig rod.

Yes sir, the rod is copper. It’s called deoxidized copper rod. The removal of all oxygen from the rod helps prevent what’s called hydrogen embrittlement

I think brazing is probably stronger on pipe since it fills the gap in the joint.

@@TheMoonlightCraftsman thanks for tip, just looking for any possible solution for brazing around sensitive areas, our younger guys are damaging some parts that are super close and I did as well back in the learning years, just looking to modern tech to make life a little more simple. It is hard to teach finesse

Wrap the pipe with a wet rag by your sensitive parts may help. Good luck!

Excellent, im going to edit that footage this week

Thank you. Australia?🇦🇺

@@TheMoonlightCraftsman LOL, Guilty.

That’s called a Tig Brush. There is another popular brand called Surfox. They essentially use a small current in acid to remove the oxidation of Stainless steel welds. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you, I’ve had good teachers

Thanks, it’s 3/4

Actually, if you are talking about the tool tray not the lower shelf. I used half inch maple with a rabbet on all sides to fit in a 1/4 inch groove in the sides. Since the tray is so long I did glue about an inch in the middle on the tray shelf to the outer side so it could still expand and contract. A middle divider could also be used instead

@@TheMoonlightCraftsman Thanks, that was the area I was talking about. I have not started to build my bench yet, but hope to begin soon.

Appreciate it