I am amazed at your work! Is there any way, you could tell what amps are you running while commenting on the video? And thank you for those videos, keep them coming! 🤘
I used to own a fairly efficient fabrication shop, we did quite a bit of stainless work, never considered even trying one of these so my hat is off to you! I did like some of your tricks
Hey man I admire your work I work doing sink fabrication in a big shop and your work it’s as good as we do with all the equipment we have, you just inspired me to start my side hustle in my garage!!!
That’s pretty cool to hear Mike! I don’t do a lot of side work but you might look into custom range hoods too. I don’t know how big a city you live in but I feel like you can get a little more profit out of them and maybe a little bigger market at least if you sell to residential too
I thought about that last night. I’m lucky enough that the little I do my job let’s meet cut stuff out at work in my off time. If I don’t work you might check out to see if your town has a maker space. You can Google go create Wichita Kansas to kind of see what I’m talking about. Or if you can create dxfs you might be able to use a cutting service from somebody locally
That looks very nice! I’m jealous wish I was that good. I have a small Miller welder but unfortunately spend too much time at work to be able to practice welding.
Damn I just got my first job doing 16 gauge SS , new to fabricating as far as SS and am having trouble . My lead doesn’t have time to come and show me unfortunately and I’m just freestlying pretty much. Had to cut out some welds and re stitch them , re square things because I chose to weld things uphill that pulled it opposite , a lot of stuff I don’t know but I make progress daily ..
Thanks! You’ll have to check out Bettys when they open up. Triangle is for sale, Not sure if it’ll be open for very much longer unless somebody buys it
Just getting into building tubs for a new customer. Welding only the outside, any idea on how to blend in the bleed through that comes in through the corners? Passivation isn't working on inside, just the outside.
Are you using square corners? I would recommend using at least 16ga and a full lap if only welding the outside and the outside is not shown. When welding the outside clamp an aluminum angle tight in the inside corner, this sucks up heat and essentially keeps a majority of oxygen away from the inside corners. If you’re using thinner material than 16ga it will be hard to prevent burn through to the inside and you may want to purge the inside corners with argon while you’re welding. This is recommendation for square corners. In this video I purge the whole inside with argon through a hose coming up through the table, then purposely try and burn all the way through. Any blackness in burn through is oxidation and won’t be removed with passivation.
The blue tape acts as a guide to get a straight line, something to grind up to. Provides a very small amount of protection. I think you’re talking about the little belt grinder, the brand name is dynafile but I think Milwaukee has one and there are others
Thank you for the quick reply! What is the blue tape that you are using called? I never thought that a tape would be strong enough to prevent welding distortion, is that the purpose of tape?🤔
That’s just painter’s tape. I was just using that as a guide for my eyes when grinding/polishing corners….. I think I also used that in this video when welding the actual sink, that was just used to seal the argon purge on the inside while welding
I welded pieces together to make them. You could probably have them machined. I’m not sure if anyone sells them or not….I originally tried to make a perfect positive and negative but I’m not a machinist and didn’t have access to a lathe….the ring on top (positive) that pushes down has a diameter that is about 1/4 inch smaller than the inside diameter of the bottom ring, this makes a space in the dies where the offset takes place and the crisp lines are created by the square edges of the rings. I also put a hole in the bottom die that a round piece on the top fits into for alignment purposes. It engages in the flat before pressing and matches the drain hole in the flat sheet metal
Estaba pensando en el tipo de aceros inoxidables: el Austénico, el Ferrítico, el Martensítico, el Duplex, el Endurecible por Precipitación...y pensando si estamos haciendo bien las cosas...
Dynafile which is the skinny belt sander, I think it’s dinasher is the round belt sander or burnishing tool for the grain on flat surfaces. And of course just regular grinder. I have some other videos that you might find useful on the topic as well
I think you’re talking about the dynabrade dynafile. It comes in pneumatic or electric, mines electric. It essentially runs 1/4 inch and 1/2inch wide belts and has different arms with various radius
The brand name is dynafile by dynabrade. This one is electric which has good for me at home. The company is best known for their pneumatic tools which there is that option which is lighter but requires a lot of air volume. There are cheaper options from other brands which I would probably try now, Milwaukee actually makes one now that they call a bandfile
That tool is a dynafile. 24ga would not be acceptable for this process. That could be possible with an industrial stamping process but even that would be thin
Ooh that could be a big project. If you can get to the inside easily I would hammer it back out and repolish it….a lot of tanks have a jacket or second skin on them, not sure it that’s what you are referring to. In that case it is possible that the customer may not care that much to have it fixed as long as it doesn’t affect the utility of the tank…….otherwise if you can’t get to the inside you can use a large rod with a cap on the end, a heavy weight that is able to slide on the rod, you tack the rod to the surface and slide the heavy weight on the rod hitting the cap on the end to pull the dent out….you may have to repeat this process numerous times in different areas to get the shape you want. Then grind and polish. Very time consuming and thus expensive process. Thanks!
The sink is 16ga. I think the countertop is 14 but I use 16 sometimes. The brake I used on the sink is Bailiegh industrials 14ga rated 48in finger brake
Hellow sir how are Can I work with you I'am tig welder stainless steel kitchen equipment I'am assembly and finishing stainless steel products I'am from in PHILIPPINES thank you
Thanks for watching my friend. I’m an employee like you. I do small jobs as a hobby and post to RUclips but I work for a company during the day. Good luck to you
Hello friend, I am a stainless steel manufacturer, I make kitchen sinks, ovens, charcoal grills, I work in Peru, 15 years of experience, I am here in Chicago looking for opportunities, my contact
Wanting to do some more stainless videos. Do you have any questions you’d like answered in video form?
If you’re ever open to fulfilling custom orders I may have three.
What would those be? My email is jaden@themoonlightcraftsman.com
I am amazed at your work! Is there any way, you could tell what amps are you running while commenting on the video?
And thank you for those videos, keep them coming! 🤘
On 16ga and 14ga SS I’m running 50-70 amps, just depends. I’ll try and say from now on. Thanks for the kind words
What’s the name of the tool you are using to re grain ?
Really thankful that you have shared your experience so clearly.
Nice tutorial. We always brought the sinks when I was doing commercial and outdoor kitchens. I will give this a go.
I make hand made sinks for 20 years, still impressed by your still and hard work.
Yet another great video. The narriation was really good! Please keep the fine videos coming.
Thank you for your kind words! Be sure to ring that bell if you haven’t and give the like button a love tap.
Thanks for the video Sir, learned a lot with your insights. Have a blessed day.
Thank you 🙏
I used to own a fairly efficient fabrication shop, we did quite a bit of stainless work, never considered even trying one of these so my hat is off to you!
I did like some of your tricks
Thank you for the kind words
That's a really cool dye that you made at 3:40. You deserve every penny you get paid with all your time, experience, and effort.
Hey man I admire your work I work doing sink fabrication in a big shop and your work it’s as good as we do with all the equipment we have, you just inspired me to start my side hustle in my garage!!!
That’s pretty cool to hear Mike! I don’t do a lot of side work but you might look into custom range hoods too. I don’t know how big a city you live in but I feel like you can get a little more profit out of them and maybe a little bigger market at least if you sell to residential too
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman how do you do your cutting ? Do you have a shop your video?
I thought about that last night. I’m lucky enough that the little I do my job let’s meet cut stuff out at work in my off time. If I don’t work you might check out to see if your town has a maker space. You can Google go create Wichita Kansas to kind of see what I’m talking about. Or if you can create dxfs you might be able to use a cutting service from somebody locally
Thank you for this!
Please, do more stainless steel fab tips. There Really isn't that much out there. I've looked for years.
Show more!!
We’ll get some more stainless sprinkled in there when the projects come up. Keep an eye out, thanks for watching David!
Wow. Great video. I remember the first time I used a dynabride, blew my mind
I’m a apprentice at a stainless workshop and I’m struggling with warping so this is very useful cheers
This is good to hear!
This is almost a medieval mode of production.
Great!👍
You are an amazing man.😄
Beautiful work!
Thank you sir!
That looks very nice! I’m jealous wish I was that good. I have a small Miller welder but unfortunately spend too much time at work to be able to practice welding.
Wow great craftsmanship!
Impressive!!
Thank you for the kind words sir
This was so cool to watch
I’m glad to hear that sir!
Damn I just got my first job doing 16 gauge SS , new to fabricating as far as SS and am having trouble . My lead doesn’t have time to come and show me unfortunately and I’m just freestlying pretty much. Had to cut out some welds and re stitch them , re square things because I chose to weld things uphill that pulled it opposite , a lot of stuff I don’t know but I make progress daily ..
Awesome video. I hope to get a bigger shop soon
Thank you sir. The shop is never big enough
Nice work👍
Thanks Fordman!
Amazing workmanship!
Nice!👍Good job👏👏👏
I appreciate that. I’ll check out your machines
Looks great, man!
Thanks! You’ll have to check out Bettys when they open up. Triangle is for sale, Not sure if it’ll be open for very much longer unless somebody buys it
Good job!when the quantity is large.use the inner corner polishing machine,must improve the polishing speed
Great job and very nice skills!
Thank you sir. We’ll see you on the next video!
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman learnt a lot from you. Thank you, very much. Hope I can help you also some time.
Very nice job✌️💪👌👏
Good stuff bro I like your work
Thanks for watching and commenting my friend
Coming from a SS Shop this is impressive !
I appreciate that sir
Nice welding ticnik my friend
Thank you kind sir
Ever fab up a shower grate? We should talk! You do good work.
No I haven’t. You can reach me at jaden@themoonlightcraftsman.com anytime
Bro Thank you so much, this will help me a lot in my project
Just getting into building tubs for a new customer. Welding only the outside, any idea on how to blend in the bleed through that comes in through the corners? Passivation isn't working on inside, just the outside.
Are you using square corners? I would recommend using at least 16ga and a full lap if only welding the outside and the outside is not shown. When welding the outside clamp an aluminum angle tight in the inside corner, this sucks up heat and essentially keeps a majority of oxygen away from the inside corners. If you’re using thinner material than 16ga it will be hard to prevent burn through to the inside and you may want to purge the inside corners with argon while you’re welding. This is recommendation for square corners. In this video I purge the whole inside with argon through a hose coming up through the table, then purposely try and burn all the way through. Any blackness in burn through is oxidation and won’t be removed with passivation.
good vid mate ,the x wife comment lmfao😂
Nice vedio man what is the name of that grinder ? Why are you appalying blue tape
The blue tape acts as a guide to get a straight line, something to grind up to. Provides a very small amount of protection. I think you’re talking about the little belt grinder, the brand name is dynafile but I think Milwaukee has one and there are others
Beautiful craftsmanship. How much do you charge for a sink like this?
This was integral with the countertop so the project was around 2000
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman That's about what I'd expect for this much work. Thanks for sharing.
What grit sand belt did you use to grind the edges of the sink? Video was very intersting!! 😃
120 grit and red conditioning belt is what I like to use. Thank you my friend
Thank you for the quick reply! What is the blue tape that you are using called? I never thought that a tape would be strong enough to prevent welding distortion, is that the purpose of tape?🤔
That’s just painter’s tape. I was just using that as a guide for my eyes when grinding/polishing corners….. I think I also used that in this video when welding the actual sink, that was just used to seal the argon purge on the inside while welding
hi great video, how would you grind and polish the internal corners of the sink bowl if the corners were 90 degrees instead of the 1" diameter?
In this case I would fuse the corners on the inside without using rod and wouldn’t polish it, only take the color off
You can check out the sinks with 90 degrees in the “I found this in my garage” video
Thanks I look forward to watching them
hi sir, may i ask on how can i have the round die cast you used? can it be bought? thanks a lot for this video.
I welded pieces together to make them. You could probably have them machined. I’m not sure if anyone sells them or not….I originally tried to make a perfect positive and negative but I’m not a machinist and didn’t have access to a lathe….the ring on top (positive) that pushes down has a diameter that is about 1/4 inch smaller than the inside diameter of the bottom ring, this makes a space in the dies where the offset takes place and the crisp lines are created by the square edges of the rings. I also put a hole in the bottom die that a round piece on the top fits into for alignment purposes. It engages in the flat before pressing and matches the drain hole in the flat sheet metal
Desde Panamá City buen trabajo.
Gracious mi amigo de Panamá
saya suka dengan cara kerja anda.....sangat rapi dan bagus
Indonesia
Buen trabajo !! aprendí mucho con este video yo eso que me dedico a hacerlos saludos !! Desde 🇲🇽
muchas gracias por ver mi amigo de mexico!
Veo que tienes un negocio interesante.
mucha suerte para ti
Esa manera de sostener la tarja para soldarla no me la sabía 🧐 gracias por compartir su conocimiento 🤝
Always thought they are drawn in a multi step process. But the China factory manufactures them the same way, that´s interesting.
Parabéns,ficou excelente,um belo trabalho.
Muito obrigado 👍
Estaba pensando en el tipo de aceros inoxidables: el Austénico, el Ferrítico, el Martensítico, el Duplex, el Endurecible por Precipitación...y pensando si estamos haciendo bien las cosas...
Austénico. 304 es estándar de la industria
Master 🙂👍
Thank you sir
Bro list what did you use tools for finishing? 😊
Dynafile which is the skinny belt sander, I think it’s dinasher is the round belt sander or burnishing tool for the grain on flat surfaces. And of course just regular grinder. I have some other videos that you might find useful on the topic as well
What kind of blue tape do you use to mask it?
Just regular 3M
We called them fingers in UK
what do you call that attachment in your grinder to polish the corners?
I think you’re talking about the dynabrade dynafile. It comes in pneumatic or electric, mines electric. It essentially runs 1/4 inch and 1/2inch wide belts and has different arms with various radius
how thick is the stainless sheet, corner and sink?
I think this is all 16ga but 14ga works good too
impressive
Thank you Neil
Excelente trabalho parabéns
Hey! Where are you located ? Do you do custom work ?
Wichita, Kansas. I do a little work on the side.
Excelente 👌
Thank you sir
Hello! Where can I get drawings for a stamp?
What tool did you use in polishing the corner?
The inside corner of the sink?
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman yes sir. 1st time seing it
The brand name is dynafile by dynabrade. This one is electric which has good for me at home. The company is best known for their pneumatic tools which there is that option which is lighter but requires a lot of air volume. There are cheaper options from other brands which I would probably try now, Milwaukee actually makes one now that they call a bandfile
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman thanks a lot.
Hi. Can you tell me the name of the tool that is use for finishing the rounded inside corners of the sink? And can we make this sink in 24guage SS?
That tool is a dynafile. 24ga would not be acceptable for this process. That could be possible with an industrial stamping process but even that would be thin
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman Thanks bro that is very helpful.
Sir u need tig welder fabricator stainless steel welder
Qual a espessura da chapa da pia e a cuba?
16ga
Muy buen trabajo
Gracias mi amigo
If a stainless steel tank is dent then how to remove it dent part
Ooh that could be a big project. If you can get to the inside easily I would hammer it back out and repolish it….a lot of tanks have a jacket or second skin on them, not sure it that’s what you are referring to. In that case it is possible that the customer may not care that much to have it fixed as long as it doesn’t affect the utility of the tank…….otherwise if you can’t get to the inside you can use a large rod with a cap on the end, a heavy weight that is able to slide on the rod, you tack the rod to the surface and slide the heavy weight on the rod hitting the cap on the end to pull the dent out….you may have to repeat this process numerous times in different areas to get the shape you want. Then grind and polish. Very time consuming and thus expensive process. Thanks!
It is minor dent of tank and it is jacketd tank
How do you work out the flat patten for the sink?
Probably hard to explain in text but I’ll try and make a short to go over it.
Nick’s question on sink layout
ruclips.net/video/yoeMBjCTdT8/видео.html
What stainless is that?
304
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman Thank You.
Did you say thats 14g SS? What model is the break? thanks
The sink is 16ga. I think the countertop is 14 but I use 16 sometimes. The brake I used on the sink is Bailiegh industrials 14ga rated 48in finger brake
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman Thats just the info I was looking for. Thank you for the quick response. And great work.
Thank you sir
One more question. Can you elaborate on the size of the Dyno file in relation to the sink and corners that need grinding?
The sink corners are 1/2 inch radius and the Dino file has different arms. This arm has a roughly 1” diameter wheel to match the sink corners
What is the best grade TIG rod to use
We use 316L for 304 sheet and 316 sheet where I work
How i can PM u sir.. if u can share some exprience .. im still learning
Email jaden@themoonlightcraftsman.com
Hellow sir how are Can I work with you I'am tig welder stainless steel kitchen equipment I'am assembly and finishing stainless steel products I'am from in PHILIPPINES thank you
Thanks for watching my friend. I’m an employee like you. I do small jobs as a hobby and post to RUclips but I work for a company during the day. Good luck to you
1 video thật sự ý nghĩa
Genial
No need weld inside 4 corners? Why?...
The sink is purged with argon and welded from the outside but getting full penetration so it’s welded completely through
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman .Without purging with argon.penetration not possible?Why purging necessary?
It will oxidize on the back side without argon purge. Necessary on full penetration Stainless welds
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman ok thanks.... Good information and nice reply... All the best👍
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman Did use filler rod for corner welding or just melting only?
Si ban aser el video aslo todo y con todas las imágenes están doblando el pozo del fregadero y lo pasan a otra imajen
watch on 100x speed
... with volume muted
I’m going to try that, I bet that is cool
Parabéns
obrigado senhor!
apakah butuh tenaga kerja, saya dari Indonesia
Saya seorang pekerja seperti Anda, teman saya
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman 🤣🤣🤣
Merry Christmas John, you’re up early
A 1000$ sink!!😂😂😂
Custom work ain’t cheap my friend 😂
If you're opening an ice cream business that does $1000 a day it doesn't matter.
7:39 What do you mean by "my ex-wife excited looking at this tool"? Are you serious? Joking, right? 😁
It’s funny, a joke idk 😂
She likes metalworking too
@@TheMoonlightCraftsman Ok 😁
These isnot a right way to make a sink bowl
What’s the right way my friend?
Traducirlo en español
Ya me voy
Hello friend, I am a stainless steel manufacturer, I make kitchen sinks, ovens, charcoal grills, I work in Peru, 15 years of experience, I am here in Chicago looking for opportunities, my contact
Mi amigo. I don’t own a real business. I am only just a guy on RUclips