WOAH bru ! So darn good to see a fellow indian brother putting out indept gaming content ! Wishing your channel all the best for the future, *Trust the process* ! Keep up the great content !
Wassup Cuz🤟🏼 lol yeah I'm trying to represent here😅thank you so much for the well wishes. I just finished a one hour SIM race so I'm kinda bust now😵 Nevertheless, I'm glad you enjoy my content and I hope you will enjoy what's to come👍🏼
You mentioned earlier that you were gonna make a video on techniques and racing tips. I’ve been looking forward to checking it out. I can’t find the link to watch it.
Yeah it's not made yet😅sorry my dude. It's going to take some time to compile everything and draft it to create the video. For now though, I will give you one tip. See my recent Touge runs in Assetto Corsa. The part I want you to focus on is the traction circle (G force and traction colours). See how each car makes a pattern on that circle and the pattern is usually circular. Try replicating this in the game you're playing. I've already explained what inputs move the force in what way now all you gotta do is figure out how to make the force move around in a circular motion. If you see the force moving to make a + (by this, I mean a cross) pattern then you're not yet linking your feet to your hands (pedals to steering). A very helpful thing I will tell you is to do trail braking on the controller not by how much you push the stick but rather by how much rotation you want. Make sure you got brakes set more forward so the car stays stable and trail brake according to how quickly and how much you want the car to rotate through the corners. Factor in throttle control and you should be able to get a circular motion with the force going on rather than a cross pattern.
@@racingreaperofficial ok no worries. I’m subscribed so I’ll be looking forward to watching it. Thank you again for posting all these amazing videos. I’ve learned a lot. It’s just so much info for my brain to retain all of it at once. I’m gonna have to watch your series at least 3-5 times to absorb more of the information. I’m a fast learner but I retain more hands on. Like if I had someone to help and talk me through my first build and tune I would advance much faster.
I was using it for all the cars I was tuning. It is just something to help me calculate things faster and it brought the time it took to tune a car down to about an hour (from 3-5 hours)
Mr Shin Eigami, many questions and hopefully someone can answer to some degree. -I like class A to C racing, no AWD swaps. All of my cars don't use aero, except class A (where I find it important for all FWD and RWD). Most are road racing. -When turning, is it a good idea to have all three zones of the tire opposite the turning tire to be about the same temp? If I turn left, will keeping the right side tires with evenly distributed temps help (I try to keep - to zero camb on outer tires). I try to do this constantly and it sort of works. I don't do excessive camber, nothing passed 1.5 degrees (straight line speed is king in low class Forza). My roll bars end up being the weakness as they either cannot be softer than 1 or end up needing to be higher than 65. Holding a turn and turn exit either end up being understeer or power oversteer. Do I further modify the springs or the dampening in such situations where my roll bars don't seem to be enough? Or do I forego my dislke of excesive camb? - Dampening, it's like a black hole to me. If I change the front by increasing and reduce the rear the same-ish amount (I modify with % values), the car then seems to be in a state of both understeer and oversteer in either front or back. Never both nor neither. Why? Like, TF? :< I Shrodinger my car constantly. My licenseplate is '2meow4u' for this very reason. - off road and dirt tuning. Where are the dirt analogues to the road circles and other testing slaloms? I don't have the DLC. I try to modify on the road courses but with emphases on higher revs/more gears, or fewer gears/more torque, always more understeer, and always lower rear roll bar. It doesn't really work. Slide city. Is it understeer or oversteer? Dirt doesn't seem to have the road's screeches to indicate understeer, or immediate skid marks for oversteer. Help.
Sup my dude✌ Those seem like a lot of questions so let's begin... Ok so first thing; yes, your outside tyre temps should be as close to evenly heated up as possible but you can allow up to a 15 degree celcius difference between the inside and outside -of those outside tyres when cornering although you won't see this on every corner like high speed easy corners (the last couple corners before the finish line of Gran Pantano Sprint as an example) won't heat up the tyres as much as medium speed sharp corners (The drift zone at Horizon Mexico Circuit). You do not always need to aim for the lowest amount of negative camber, just keep enough negative camber set so that the outside tyre in a corner is using the whole tyre (the heat map will help show this and don't forget that wheel and tyre sizes will play a part in this) For Anti-Roll bars, you can use the minimum/maximum values but only if it's allowing the weight to shift at just the right amount. Remember that the weight distribution of the car is a factor here so that will give you an idea of which ARB should be stiffer. Copy the test I did in the video where I went around the big circle as a high speed test, then the south freeway circle as medium speed and the north freeway circle as low speed. You should notice that these circles actually match speeds that you do in various tracks in the game so it's a good test to use and help you judge how you should set your ARBs and also whether those ARB settings actually translate to the car going faster or slower (the high speed test is the one where you want to test speed, the medium and low speed tests are the ones where you just judging whether the weight is shifting correctly or not. Medium speed test must show more balanced weight shifting, low speed test must show more lift on the inside). If you want to throw springs into the equation; you could soften/stiffen based on what you want to see but rather focus on keeping your suspension set for forward/backward weight shifting and your ARBs set for side to side weight shifting. Your damping will only improve responsiveness so don't bundle that up with ARBs directly (even though I do consider Springs/ARBs/Damping to be inter-linked). Do not go with excessive negative camber. Negative camber aids in reducing understeer because it allows the wheel to be angled in a certain way while going in a straight line but when cornering, the wheel wants to run straight up (gyroscopically) so excessive negative camber would stop it from doing this. Keep your camber setting focused on keeping the heat distributed properly while cornering. Another thing on this, you mention understeer or power oversteer. I cannot comment for understeer, I need more detail... are you braking, are you off throttle/on throttle? You also mentioned you drive FWD or RWD so factor this in your explanation as well. For power oversteer, this links across to your differential setting, too much lock and it will be hard to keep the car accelerating smoothly while going for corner exit (I am hazarding a guess that this is where you get power oversteer?) Don't increase front and reduce rear just like that. Look at how quick or slow your suspension is moving and pay further attention to the direction. The rate at which the pink travels up (bump) must mirror the rate at which the pink travels down (rebound) but you should actually aim for the pink to travel down slightly faster as your rebound is generally stiffer than your bump, slightly! Also, increase all round but see where you want to add grip. As a general guideline, I make my rear stiffer at a higher % on a FWD car because the rear is basically allowed to go free (not having any drive going through it and the wheels just run straight) in order to make the rear squat quickly when going on throttle or take weight off the rear when coming off throttle/braking (try not to coast too much in FWD cars; be on power or be on brakes). For RWD cars, I would make the front stiffer because it would be good to have those front wheels move weight onto them quickly so that they can get grip easily enough. However, you should still test the cars you are tuning and see where it needs more grip because one RWD car can be different to another (pay very close attention to the car behaviour, make the link back to your inputs, decide on your tuning adjustment, test, repeat if necessary) Nice reg plate by the way, I like cats lol For dirt, you generally want to set up your car to do a healthy amount of oversteer. By healthy, I mean it must slide out but it must still go in the direction you want it to without making you work hard to keep the car under your control. I will start at some basics, do not go with negative camber too much, you do not want to remove understeer because you should be initiating and controlling oversteer. What you said about your gearbox choices is correct but keep the drive-ability of the car in mind, in the sense that is it easy for you to shift so often if you have more gears playing in the power band or does the car accelerate nicely with less gears playing more from the torque band? Also keep in mind what each gear is meant to do. Your lower gears need to get the car to accelerate (torque band comes into play) and your higher gears need to keep the speed up and acceleration going (power band comes into play). Your differential is also an important part in dirt racing; you want alot of lock under accel (don't take corners like you do with a road car, feel the car out and if you get understeer then make it slide and if not just grip through the corner) while very little lock under decel (when you come off throttle then the car needs to be able to rotate easily. The only thing is you drive RWD or FWD cars only so for a RWD car you may not want too little lock under decel because that could lead to it wanting to slide everytime you lift off. Springs/ARBs/Damping/Brakes/Tyre Pressures/Aero will all work the same as a road racer but you should keep it more soft (except for ARBs, that is still based on side to side weight transfer). I will be doing a Rally and Cross Country tuning tutorial in the near future now that I got this video out the way so keep an eye out for that. I hope this helps and if you have any more questions or if I said something that doesn't make sense, feel free to reach out
What’s been difficult for me the most about trying to tune my car is not having the racing knowledge I need to be consistent on my driving technique and skills while tuning the car around a track. My inconsistency is screwing up my tune and making it more difficult on getting the correct changes that need to be made.
This is going to sound weird but try something called image training. See how you want the car to run and try to do that and this is where you need to tap in to how the car feels because the next part is to recognise whether it's the car that needs correction or you👀turn off all the assists and let's make it just you and the car. Make sure SIM steering is on. Take a drive at the circuit you've driven on the most (let's keep it to circuits rather than sprints so you can keep driving until you find the perfect lap. You push as hard you can with just your upgrades before you start to make tuning adjustments. Then finally the tuning adjustments will be needed just to tailor the car if you still feel something is off. Most of the time; it will be your brakes, you want the car to be stable while braking and not sliding through the corner with it but you also want it to rotate into the corner as you releasing the brakes (time it for you to turn in as late but as in as possible). Over time you do more laps and you get the feeling for it you must try other tracks to see what can happen.
@@racingreaperofficial I totally get what you’re saying and I will try it out. My biggest concern is not having knowledge on the correct racing techniques I’m probably developing really bad habits since I don’t have an idea or guideline to start from and to practice and build from that.
Wonderful job, thank you. I have a couple questions, I have an S2 RWD car with it's gears entirely messed up. When flooring it from a stop, the speedometer goes crazy, and the car shifts strongly to the left. I'm not sure whether to extend or shorten the final drive to fix this? How do you differentiate between a car needing better tuning on it's springs vs it's dampers? How should you know if the tire tread should be wider or if the spacing should be wider?
Thanks man, I'm glad you enjoyed it👍🏼 For the launch, you can try a few things: 1. Increase rear tyre width. If you added quite a bit more power then you should give it more rubber to cope with that. 2. Move final drive more to top speed. 3. Increase the Accel % on your differential settings to try top the car moving to the left but the effect that this will give you is it could introduce throttle understeer until the tail snaps and you will either lose alot of momentum in the corner or spin out entirely. Try working on your throttle control at launch. I found that removing the deadzones on the controls helps to control the car with more sensitivity. For question 2, keep the purpose of each setting in mind☝🏼. Your springs are there to hold the unsprung weight up to a certain degree and make sure the underbody or wheel arches (part of unsprung weight) doesn't touch the ground or rub against the tyres during any part of driving. You use the spring settings to lower your car and in which case, you must stiffen the springs if it's compressing too much or vice versa if you raise the car. Dampers in normal real life driving are there for a different reason to what we need it to do in the game so I'm not going to mention that. What we basically use dampers for is to control the rate at which the suspension is travelling and by extension, how fast we want the weight of the car to shift around. If we want a faster movement, then we stiffen and vice versa if we want a slower movement. We gotta also take notice of which movement do we want to make faster or slower. Is the rebound (pink bar going down) too slow or is the bump (pink bar going up) too slow. I notice that the rebound settings are usually the ones that need a slight adjustment because with race suspension stock settings the cars do take a bit to rebound back to normal. For your last question, I like to test the car out in stock condition first to help me gauge what the car is basically capable off. If I am going to be adding alot of power and the car is a RWD car, I would increase the rear tyre width. If I see that the car had some issues with understeer, I increase the front tyre width but most of the time I end up avoiding this because of the PI cost. The track width is something I use almost all the time and it comes with the notion that the tyres must be lined up with the body of the car because when the weight is pushing down on any one side, the tyre must be at the edge of where the body ends so it can take the forces better as compared to it being tucked inside the arch. Track width can also be used to alleviate handling issues to an extent. If you want to remove understeer, increase front track width and vice versa for oversteer. As an example, drift cars sometimes come with wider front track widths and they do this so that the rear can rotate easy while the front has a lot of stability (making the rear push the car and the front still being able to steer) Don't forget that through all of this, you still gotta find a balance with the car. Sometimes it comes from the upgrades you put on it. Sometimes it comes from the tuning you do. Sometimes it has to come from how you drive. I hope this answers your questions. Let me know if you have more my dude✌🏼
![Forza Horizon 5 : Suspension Tuning Simplified😎! [Beginners Guide]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/s3S6x-MXWcM/mqdefault.jpg)
![Forza Horizon 5 : Suspension Tuning Simplified😎! [Beginners Guide]](/img/tr.png)
Next video really will be about how this car did in online racing... it was a bit of a surprise...
This is exactly the kind of video I've been looking for. Way more helpful than a lot of other guides I've seen.
Thanks very much!
I'm glad I could help man✌🏼😁👍🏼
WOAH bru ! So darn good to see a fellow indian brother putting out indept gaming content ! Wishing your channel all the best for the future, *Trust the process* ! Keep up the great content !
Wassup Cuz🤟🏼 lol yeah I'm trying to represent here😅thank you so much for the well wishes. I just finished a one hour SIM race so I'm kinda bust now😵
Nevertheless, I'm glad you enjoy my content and I hope you will enjoy what's to come👍🏼
You mentioned earlier that you were gonna make a video on techniques and racing tips. I’ve been looking forward to checking it out. I can’t find the link to watch it.
Yeah it's not made yet😅sorry my dude. It's going to take some time to compile everything and draft it to create the video.
For now though, I will give you one tip.
See my recent Touge runs in Assetto Corsa. The part I want you to focus on is the traction circle (G force and traction colours). See how each car makes a pattern on that circle and the pattern is usually circular. Try replicating this in the game you're playing. I've already explained what inputs move the force in what way now all you gotta do is figure out how to make the force move around in a circular motion. If you see the force moving to make a + (by this, I mean a cross) pattern then you're not yet linking your feet to your hands (pedals to steering). A very helpful thing I will tell you is to do trail braking on the controller not by how much you push the stick but rather by how much rotation you want. Make sure you got brakes set more forward so the car stays stable and trail brake according to how quickly and how much you want the car to rotate through the corners. Factor in throttle control and you should be able to get a circular motion with the force going on rather than a cross pattern.
@@racingreaperofficial ok no worries. I’m subscribed so I’ll be looking forward to watching it. Thank you again for posting all these amazing videos. I’ve learned a lot. It’s just so much info for my brain to retain all of it at once. I’m gonna have to watch your series at least 3-5 times to absorb more of the information. I’m a fast learner but I retain more hands on. Like if I had someone to help and talk me through my first build and tune I would advance much faster.
@@racingreaperofficial ok thanks I’ll check them out.
@Execution8r you're on my discord right? 🤔Was it you who joined the other day?
@@racingreaperofficial yes that was me.
So the spreadsheet you are using in this video you use for all the cars you are tuning or just this particular car?
I was using it for all the cars I was tuning. It is just something to help me calculate things faster and it brought the time it took to tune a car down to about an hour (from 3-5 hours)
Mr Shin Eigami, many questions and hopefully someone can answer to some degree.
-I like class A to C racing, no AWD swaps. All of my cars don't use aero, except class A (where I find it important for all FWD and RWD). Most are road racing.
-When turning, is it a good idea to have all three zones of the tire opposite the turning tire to be about the same temp? If I turn left, will keeping the right side tires with evenly distributed temps help (I try to keep - to zero camb on outer tires). I try to do this constantly and it sort of works. I don't do excessive camber, nothing passed 1.5 degrees (straight line speed is king in low class Forza). My roll bars end up being the weakness as they either cannot be softer than 1 or end up needing to be higher than 65. Holding a turn and turn exit either end up being understeer or power oversteer. Do I further modify the springs or the dampening in such situations where my roll bars don't seem to be enough? Or do I forego my dislke of excesive camb?
- Dampening, it's like a black hole to me. If I change the front by increasing and reduce the rear the same-ish amount (I modify with % values), the car then seems to be in a state of both understeer and oversteer in either front or back. Never both nor neither. Why? Like, TF? :< I Shrodinger my car constantly. My licenseplate is '2meow4u' for this very reason.
- off road and dirt tuning. Where are the dirt analogues to the road circles and other testing slaloms? I don't have the DLC. I try to modify on the road courses but with emphases on higher revs/more gears, or fewer gears/more torque, always more understeer, and always lower rear roll bar. It doesn't really work. Slide city. Is it understeer or oversteer? Dirt doesn't seem to have the road's screeches to indicate understeer, or immediate skid marks for oversteer. Help.
Sup my dude✌
Those seem like a lot of questions so let's begin...
Ok so first thing; yes, your outside tyre temps should be as close to evenly heated up as possible but you can allow up to a 15 degree celcius difference between the inside and outside -of those outside tyres when cornering although you won't see this on every corner like high speed easy corners (the last couple corners before the finish line of Gran Pantano Sprint as an example) won't heat up the tyres as much as medium speed sharp corners (The drift zone at Horizon Mexico Circuit). You do not always need to aim for the lowest amount of negative camber, just keep enough negative camber set so that the outside tyre in a corner is using the whole tyre (the heat map will help show this and don't forget that wheel and tyre sizes will play a part in this)
For Anti-Roll bars, you can use the minimum/maximum values but only if it's allowing the weight to shift at just the right amount. Remember that the weight distribution of the car is a factor here so that will give you an idea of which ARB should be stiffer. Copy the test I did in the video where I went around the big circle as a high speed test, then the south freeway circle as medium speed and the north freeway circle as low speed. You should notice that these circles actually match speeds that you do in various tracks in the game so it's a good test to use and help you judge how you should set your ARBs and also whether those ARB settings actually translate to the car going faster or slower (the high speed test is the one where you want to test speed, the medium and low speed tests are the ones where you just judging whether the weight is shifting correctly or not. Medium speed test must show more balanced weight shifting, low speed test must show more lift on the inside). If you want to throw springs into the equation; you could soften/stiffen based on what you want to see but rather focus on keeping your suspension set for forward/backward weight shifting and your ARBs set for side to side weight shifting. Your damping will only improve responsiveness so don't bundle that up with ARBs directly (even though I do consider Springs/ARBs/Damping to be inter-linked). Do not go with excessive negative camber. Negative camber aids in reducing understeer because it allows the wheel to be angled in a certain way while going in a straight line but when cornering, the wheel wants to run straight up (gyroscopically) so excessive negative camber would stop it from doing this. Keep your camber setting focused on keeping the heat distributed properly while cornering.
Another thing on this, you mention understeer or power oversteer. I cannot comment for understeer, I need more detail... are you braking, are you off throttle/on throttle? You also mentioned you drive FWD or RWD so factor this in your explanation as well. For power oversteer, this links across to your differential setting, too much lock and it will be hard to keep the car accelerating smoothly while going for corner exit (I am hazarding a guess that this is where you get power oversteer?)
Don't increase front and reduce rear just like that. Look at how quick or slow your suspension is moving and pay further attention to the direction. The rate at which the pink travels up (bump) must mirror the rate at which the pink travels down (rebound) but you should actually aim for the pink to travel down slightly faster as your rebound is generally stiffer than your bump, slightly! Also, increase all round but see where you want to add grip. As a general guideline, I make my rear stiffer at a higher % on a FWD car because the rear is basically allowed to go free (not having any drive going through it and the wheels just run straight) in order to make the rear squat quickly when going on throttle or take weight off the rear when coming off throttle/braking (try not to coast too much in FWD cars; be on power or be on brakes). For RWD cars, I would make the front stiffer because it would be good to have those front wheels move weight onto them quickly so that they can get grip easily enough. However, you should still test the cars you are tuning and see where it needs more grip because one RWD car can be different to another (pay very close attention to the car behaviour, make the link back to your inputs, decide on your tuning adjustment, test, repeat if necessary)
Nice reg plate by the way, I like cats lol
For dirt, you generally want to set up your car to do a healthy amount of oversteer. By healthy, I mean it must slide out but it must still go in the direction you want it to without making you work hard to keep the car under your control. I will start at some basics, do not go with negative camber too much, you do not want to remove understeer because you should be initiating and controlling oversteer. What you said about your gearbox choices is correct but keep the drive-ability of the car in mind, in the sense that is it easy for you to shift so often if you have more gears playing in the power band or does the car accelerate nicely with less gears playing more from the torque band? Also keep in mind what each gear is meant to do. Your lower gears need to get the car to accelerate (torque band comes into play) and your higher gears need to keep the speed up and acceleration going (power band comes into play). Your differential is also an important part in dirt racing; you want alot of lock under accel (don't take corners like you do with a road car, feel the car out and if you get understeer then make it slide and if not just grip through the corner) while very little lock under decel (when you come off throttle then the car needs to be able to rotate easily. The only thing is you drive RWD or FWD cars only so for a RWD car you may not want too little lock under decel because that could lead to it wanting to slide everytime you lift off. Springs/ARBs/Damping/Brakes/Tyre Pressures/Aero will all work the same as a road racer but you should keep it more soft (except for ARBs, that is still based on side to side weight transfer). I will be doing a Rally and Cross Country tuning tutorial in the near future now that I got this video out the way so keep an eye out for that.
I hope this helps and if you have any more questions or if I said something that doesn't make sense, feel free to reach out
What’s been difficult for me the most about trying to tune my car is not having the racing knowledge I need to be consistent on my driving technique and skills while tuning the car around a track. My inconsistency is screwing up my tune and making it more difficult on getting the correct changes that need to be made.
This is going to sound weird but try something called image training. See how you want the car to run and try to do that and this is where you need to tap in to how the car feels because the next part is to recognise whether it's the car that needs correction or you👀turn off all the assists and let's make it just you and the car. Make sure SIM steering is on. Take a drive at the circuit you've driven on the most (let's keep it to circuits rather than sprints so you can keep driving until you find the perfect lap. You push as hard you can with just your upgrades before you start to make tuning adjustments. Then finally the tuning adjustments will be needed just to tailor the car if you still feel something is off. Most of the time; it will be your brakes, you want the car to be stable while braking and not sliding through the corner with it but you also want it to rotate into the corner as you releasing the brakes (time it for you to turn in as late but as in as possible). Over time you do more laps and you get the feeling for it you must try other tracks to see what can happen.
@@racingreaperofficial I totally get what you’re saying and I will try it out. My biggest concern is not having knowledge on the correct racing techniques I’m probably developing really bad habits since I don’t have an idea or guideline to start from and to practice and build from that.
Wonderful job, thank you. I have a couple questions,
I have an S2 RWD car with it's gears entirely messed up. When flooring it from a stop, the speedometer goes crazy, and the car shifts strongly to the left. I'm not sure whether to extend or shorten the final drive to fix this?
How do you differentiate between a car needing better tuning on it's springs vs it's dampers?
How should you know if the tire tread should be wider or if the spacing should be wider?
Thanks man, I'm glad you enjoyed it👍🏼
For the launch, you can try a few things:
1. Increase rear tyre width. If you added quite a bit more power then you should give it more rubber to cope with that.
2. Move final drive more to top speed.
3. Increase the Accel % on your differential settings to try top the car moving to the left but the effect that this will give you is it could introduce throttle understeer until the tail snaps and you will either lose alot of momentum in the corner or spin out entirely.
Try working on your throttle control at launch. I found that removing the deadzones on the controls helps to control the car with more sensitivity.
For question 2, keep the purpose of each setting in mind☝🏼. Your springs are there to hold the unsprung weight up to a certain degree and make sure the underbody or wheel arches (part of unsprung weight) doesn't touch the ground or rub against the tyres during any part of driving. You use the spring settings to lower your car and in which case, you must stiffen the springs if it's compressing too much or vice versa if you raise the car. Dampers in normal real life driving are there for a different reason to what we need it to do in the game so I'm not going to mention that. What we basically use dampers for is to control the rate at which the suspension is travelling and by extension, how fast we want the weight of the car to shift around. If we want a faster movement, then we stiffen and vice versa if we want a slower movement. We gotta also take notice of which movement do we want to make faster or slower. Is the rebound (pink bar going down) too slow or is the bump (pink bar going up) too slow. I notice that the rebound settings are usually the ones that need a slight adjustment because with race suspension stock settings the cars do take a bit to rebound back to normal.
For your last question, I like to test the car out in stock condition first to help me gauge what the car is basically capable off. If I am going to be adding alot of power and the car is a RWD car, I would increase the rear tyre width. If I see that the car had some issues with understeer, I increase the front tyre width but most of the time I end up avoiding this because of the PI cost.
The track width is something I use almost all the time and it comes with the notion that the tyres must be lined up with the body of the car because when the weight is pushing down on any one side, the tyre must be at the edge of where the body ends so it can take the forces better as compared to it being tucked inside the arch.
Track width can also be used to alleviate handling issues to an extent. If you want to remove understeer, increase front track width and vice versa for oversteer.
As an example, drift cars sometimes come with wider front track widths and they do this so that the rear can rotate easy while the front has a lot of stability (making the rear push the car and the front still being able to steer)
Don't forget that through all of this, you still gotta find a balance with the car. Sometimes it comes from the upgrades you put on it. Sometimes it comes from the tuning you do. Sometimes it has to come from how you drive.
I hope this answers your questions.
Let me know if you have more my dude✌🏼
how do i get the menu that gives you all the stats
If using keyboard press T or if using controller press down on dpad
Don't use background music 😞
Ah ok👍🏼perhaps I should try to be more selective about how and where I use it then🤔
I didn't mind it tbf@@racingreaperofficial
@billyraymyers1002 thanks Billy👍🏼will keep this in mind👊🏼