I purchased a Firebird two years ago based on your reviews and a little help from you in the comment section. It’s exactly as you described it and I’ve been happy as clam with it. It is indeed a great all round trail bike that can go fast. So thank you, it’s much appreciated!
I got a 2023 Firebird. Previously rode a SB165 and then a SB140. The Firebird is the first 29 bike I’ve had and it honestly feels like a mix between the 165 and 140. I’m excited for the coming season.
Your reviews are on point and I like that you spend a fair bit of time in the sea to sky region doing them! As per your question, I live in the sea to sky and I like to be over biked and my Spire certainly fits that description but lately I've been looking to replace the Spire with a bit more of a pedal friendly, over biked, bike. I think the Firebird is the one! Cheers and thanks for the reviews.
Jeff - thanks for this video. Your previous Firebird reviews led me to getting a deal on a 2022 year model being sold in the UK. Best bike I have ever owned and pedals amazingly well. Just an awesome bike. I don’t ride it anything like at the level you do though!!! 😂
Great updated review! I had an opportunity to do my own 'updated' Firebird review after owning one in 2023, selling it for a Megatower, and then renting one this year as a hire bike in Morzine. I still think the Firebird is an excellent bike but I still struggled with the reach in medium (I am 178cm). When i swapped to the Megatower (455mm from the Firebird's 468mm) I noticed a huge difference in comfort and confidence for me. Spending a week back on it again in Morzine just confirmed that long reach just isn't for me. As you say in the review, the shorter stays don't help with that either - it really had some surprising balance issues and I still find the Firebird hard to manual vs other 29ers.
I swopped out the dropper too. Mine came with a 175mm Fox dropper in the UK. It is an XL. I changed it for a 240mm One Up - now perfect. I miss the Kashima finish on the dropper, but try not to cry too much about it…
I have a medium Firebird, 5'-10" 30"inseam and run a 50mm stem and a 240mm OneUp dropper. It will fit slammed which is nice. I have an X2 and DHX2 for it. Looks like I need to try a Float X since most of my riding is more trail/ aggressive trail with the occasional black...dbl black riding. Thanks for being an enabler!
I’ve been very happy with my Firebird. It’s a bike that I can take and do lift service stuff at Deer Valley or go on a regular trail ride with some jumps mixed in or take it to Moab and anywhere I take it. It feels up to the task. I’m 5’6” and ride the size small with XT/XTR and DT Swiss aluminum wheels. You have me curious about the Float X shock tho 🧐 also thinking about going with a lightweight carbon wheel set.
Glad you're digging your Bird so much Jay! It's a great all arounder- assuming you've got the terrain for it- and Utah/SLC area certainly has plenty of elevation to work with!
Hey Jeff, I gotta step in here. Neo Float X is a different Shock than the regular float X. It has a completely different base valve. And even though you are right, that once the system is turned off, it behaves like a regular Shock, you are experiencing more of a shock that would be in between a base Float X And an X2. I do agree this bike feels better with that shock! Keep up the good work
i used a ht2 for a long time and had been looking a lot at the pivot firebird for exactly the reasons you mention. it pedals better, and its stiffer. slightly more capable suspension on it usually too, better reach. superboost also actually does help, as annoying as it is to be another standard. i dont mind the short stays, it does make it feel a bit more traily.
The Firebird is a great all arounder- as long you've got somewhat "legit" terrain, I enjoy it more than the Switchblade. I'd recommend a little Float X over the stock Firebird shock tho!
@@JeffKendallWeed yeah you got me curious. my friends run the dhx2 and x2 on them and they like the dhx2 but not the x2 as much.. maybe they just need a x :)
I think the valving on aftermarket is better than OEM- pivot puts a lot more emphasis on pedaling support than I ever have. Aftermarket is more my style- a bit more open and playful.
@@JeffKendallWeed The 2025 Float X aftermarket comes with a new compression shim stack. It's an absolutely brilliant tune. Best shock Fox have ever made ( although I have blown the damping circuit after a year... :-) )
Great video as usual. To answer the question, I prefer to be over biked. I’m 6’3”, 215, and Canadian born so I’m clumsy and over biked = insurance. Loving my Ripmo AF, but wish I could find a bike that could come factory with bar height near saddle height. Always buying bars and stem, but that’s probably a first world problem.
Yeah the Firebird might be the new "enduro bike as your only bike" with the departure of the previous gen RM Altitude. I still think the 21-23 Altitude is the ultimate do everything enduro bike with its much more balanced and precise downhill feel vs the Firebird where I feel like you're mainly riding it off the back despite the very long reach. I was between the Firebird and Altitude last year and ended up getting a 2023 Altitude.
LOL maybe just not the bike for ya? I am not afraid to say I appreciate the SB, I really like those stiff feeling bikes. I haven't had an issue with a shimano press fit BB ever. In 2012 we did have some undersized BB shells go out while I was at Ibis, but things have been great ever since.
@@JeffKendallWeed Haha maybe not! No but honestly - I would love to try one. I just cant get behind brands doing press fit in 2024. As a home mechanic, who does everything except for 200hr suspension service, press fit is not very appealing. And I get the reasoning behind the superboost rear, but I have to get a wheel with that spacing for that bike, that i'll probably never use again for any other bike! They have some attractive prices right now, but I went for a megatower v2 instead, since doesnt have any of the two above. (and it was available as a frameset)
Great video. Be curious to hear more on chainstay length. E.g. is it more absolute length or ratio? e.g., this Firebird looks like it went way short on the rear end....then moved all if the length into the front throwing things way out of balance....keep the videos coming!
I always complain about not having any trails near me- but at least I also don't have to fear giant bears.. which is a unforseen advantage to be honest :)
I would like you to compare the Hightower V4 to the Pivot Firebird with a live valve shock on the Hightower V4. Then you be able to make comparison of geometry not suspension tuning.
I rode Float X in analog mode a ton on the Firebird. And the HT4 has an analog Float X on it- literally an apples to apples comparison. HT4 was great, I like that rear end length. The stiffness of the Firebird is better tho.
Thank you for your response. Was not sure or the length time you rode the Firebird with Neo inactive. Valving on both shocks is still most likely different. Just thought running both with Neo would be more of a neutral comparison between bikes.
Fox guy chimed in the comments above that the LiveValve Float X does have a more aggressive base valve than the standard Float X, so I was wrong. But on the trail, the "unplugged" Float X Neo feels great- not far off from the Float X on the Hightower- and much more open than the stock Float X that comes on the Switchblade.
I also despise the Fox/Raceface droppers. Every single Fox Transfer or Raceface Turbine R I've ridden, including the one on my bike have the issue where they don't want to come up.
Sounds kind of like your prior generation Altitude review. How does the firebird compare to that bike? Do you think the Altitude would run better with a Float X or X2? I have been debating on trying a cheap used Float X for fun.
Appreciate the insights, Jeff. Any thoughts about similar issues/solutions on the Switchblade? I have a 2022 and have struggled to get the suspension to feel supple rather than harsh. Was considering an aftermarket shock (Cane Creek coil?) - do you think it would help? OK losing a bit of efficiency for the extra plush. Thx!
Hey Brian- yes I do think going with an aftermarket shock would help. Cane Creek tends to run a lot of damping, so for a more plush coil, I'd consider something from Fox or Rock Shox first. At 175lbs, I found the Tigon to be a little overdamped for me on all the bikes I tried it on. The Fox and RS stuff is also a lot cheaper. Also- don't hesitate to put an angle adjust headset on that SB and slacken it out a full degree! I really liked the angle adjust on the 2024 SB.
If you're not riding gnarly stuff that's steep and requires more travel, there's really no point. I've upgraded my switchblade with 2 degree angled headset and a dhx2 and it is very capable. This bike just requires you to be comfortable riding a little forward, and it loves to fly.
Another request for a Trek Fuel Ex review. I really think it would be a great comparison since it seems most reviewers don’t have a relationship with trek and a relationship with the boutique brands (ibis pivot yeti etc) and since you speak so much out frame stiffness, I’m curious how the Fuel Ex with its commonly reported stiff frame would fare. Also I’m guessing it’s being updated next year since the gen 4 top fuel came out this year…
Fuel and Slash have both been heavily requested. Unfortunately I rarely see Trek bikes, as they aren't very popular around my area. If the stars align, I'll totally try them out.
It came stock like that- hence the color matched decals. There must have been some sort of supply chain issue! It's a 2023 fork, just a Grip2, and not the new GripX2.
Hey Dude, firstly, that sure is some spectacular scenery - even without the grizzly bear lumbering nonchalantly into view…(did you take any spray… or perhaps a gun with you - I certainly would have). I used to live in the French Alps, near the Mont Blanc, so can readily relate to such magnificent vistas. You may remember that I chatted with you a few months back - regarding “stock-bike” reviews verses too many switch-outs thus making your conclusions all but moot for those of us that just buy & ride… Anyway, I wanted to run something by you regarding what I think is a fallacy that has somehow permeated the entire mountain biking world…concerning one of your pet-hates, mullet set-ups… ;-) I’m sure with your inquisitive, logic-based mind and innate confidence to readily receive the message without feeling the need to shot the messenger when it disagrees with you, you’ll be able to say whether I’m a bleeding genius or a bloody fool… So, here it is: Everyone blithely trots out the same old trope that 27.5” rear wheels result in higher roll-over resistance than 29’ers… Citing an argument that is correct in essence (a larger diameter means any encountered impedance translates into a lower relative “slowing” ratio - resulting in the wheel being more able to flow over, rather than be stopped by rocks, roots or abandoned rucksacks… So far so good… But here’s the mistake I believe the industry-parrots are making: There is a key variable to this thesis… That is to say - where the derived source of power lies: Behind, thrusting the wheel forward. Or, in front, pulling the wheel with it… This makes a huge difference. If you visualize pushing a wheelie bin (with 2 small wheels at the back) and mentally draw out an array of arrows representing all the lines-of-force you add to the wheelie bin to make it go forward, some would be horizontal (exerting energy in the same direction as you are walking). But some would be angled down to the ground at varying degrees.. Representing energy that inefficiently is wanting to add pressure to the wheelie bin to dig into the ground (because, being taller than the bin, when we push, we do so with inescapable angular momentum). On a flat and (importantly) smooth surface, this isn’t too noticeable. And makes little difference. The wheelie bin is happy to move ahead of the source of propulsion - even though some of the energy-force is pointing not horizontally forward, but down into the ground yet to be covered. Now, keep everything else the same, except for adding one new element to the system - varying sized stones, rocks and boulders along one’s intended pat -, it’s clear that progress will duly be severely hampered… For the simple reason that when you push the wheelie-bin’s wheels up against anything in it’s way, a proportion of the force one is exerting will not be encouraging the bin to move forward - but rather, sending the wheels down into the rock face/ground.. Changing the diameter of the wheels by 5% will have little to no tangible effect. But what REALLY does make a huge difference is: If, rather than pushing from behind the wheelie bin, you stand in front of it and pull! This is because rather than the aforementioned vectors of energy being directed down into the obstacles, they are now being “pulled” forward and (tellingly) upwards… Meaning the wheels inherently want to rise up and over (rather than down and under) whatever they encounter… Thus, bringing this all back to mullet-configured bikes… People, when they trot out the long-held perceived wisdom that a smaller back wheel means less ability to ride fast through rock-gardens and over roots etc, are fundamentally missing the crucial distinction that the entire source of energy doing all the work is in front of the back wheel (i.e. there is nothing behind that can add to its forward motion either in terms of gravity or pedal thrust). And therefore, the wheel is being “pulled” up over stuff - rather than pushed into it. Unlike the front wheel - where all the force-of-movement is behind its axis, and hence why forks compress downwards when a rock-face etc is hit…. CONCLUSION: Mullet set-ups are NO MORE RESISTANT to fast descents/climbs than full 29-ers… Please mull this mullet musing over and either tell me why I’m wrong… Or spread the word to manufactures/mountain bikers that somehow, right at the begin of a new trend, the industry goofed-up and made claims that were wholly unfounded (as when doctors used to say that smoking was good for you; or that putting radioactive material into toothpaste was smart!!!
Hey there train, thanks for the note. I dislike mullets because I feel that I need to work harder to keep the bike accelerating through rough terrain. Even on the road commutes to and from the trail, I feel like I need to exert more than I do on the bigger wheel bikes. And when descending, and it's time to push into turns, the 27.5 wheel breaks traction sooner. I prefer to pump and carve over skidding and drifting all the time.
@@JeffKendallWeed Sadly (for me), I'm nowhere near good enough (compared to you) to experience the differences you mention... Who would have thought a 5% diameter change would have such a noticeable impact.. especially taking into account the pull rather than push effect i outlined.
Way too short chainstays. Idk why pivot (and most other DW bikes) keep sticking with super short chainstays when it makes bikes feel so unbalanced. 437 chainstays paired with a 493 reach on the size large is almost unbelievable.
@lifebehindbarsmtb I've got a rocky mountain instinct which can change between 438 and 448mm chainstays with a flip chip. I did back to back testing with each chainstay length on the same trail and in the 448mm setting the bike didn't lose any agility or fun, but was way more stable and confident. If you haven't tried a bike with over 445 chainstays, you really should. They corner super well
437 would be sweet on the medium! I found that I love the stays on the Shuttle SL- but the weight of the e system is then made even less noticeable, so that bike has a different intent. Overall I absolutely dig the Firebird as it is. While I may complain a little about the rear end, it's totally not a deal breaker by any means.
@@JeffKendallWeed that makes sense. I had a banshee titan for a while, with a 475 reach and 453 chainstays and it was one of the best cornering and most stable bikes I've owned. I currently have a spire, and I really think it's 448 chainstays are what makes it so confidence inspiring, not the 63 degree HA
Sadly still too long a top tube in medium. Pivot's ongoing looong ETT geo makes the bike unwieldy for most riders which is a shame as otherwise its a lot of fun ( even if you dont mind the short chain stays or having to ride the bike rather forward due to that)
Marketing is so disingenuous. Manufacturing copies each other. Labels, geometry, and everything else. Brunch Ride vrs Lunch Ride. Awful…Acronyms as as well. Bothersome. First time I ever saw LR on Yeti’s site I gave them too much credit. I thought being equipped with a longer fork maybe they were trying to imply longer front center and label the bike (“Long Reach “) . That would make more sense and not be as entertaining or “not as cool” some guys taking their overforked bikes out for lunch. OOOH! Make me laugh at the industry. Conservative geometry vrs Aggresive geometry is inaccurate.. Slack means relaxed. Long and low means slow responding and stable which is actually “conservative” not aggressive. We label Geo on types of riding we ride with bike; not on how the bike responds. It’s misleading! Everyone rides aggressive trails with conservative bikes. Don’t believe me. Think about it. BMX and DJ’ s are actually aggressive responding geometry. Go ride aggressive trails with the DJ and you understand slack, long and low is so conservative by definition…
I purchased a Firebird two years ago based on your reviews and a little help from you in the comment section. It’s exactly as you described it and I’ve been happy as clam with it. It is indeed a great all round trail bike that can go fast. So thank you, it’s much appreciated!
I got a 2023 Firebird. Previously rode a SB165 and then a SB140. The Firebird is the first 29 bike I’ve had and it honestly feels like a mix between the 165 and 140. I’m excited for the coming season.
Nice Shep! yeah I'm a big fan of the Firebird. The SB140 was OK, but I like the stiffness of the Firebird a lot.
Your reviews are on point and I like that you spend a fair bit of time in the sea to sky region doing them! As per your question, I live in the sea to sky and I like to be over biked and my Spire certainly fits that description but lately I've been looking to replace the Spire with a bit more of a pedal friendly, over biked, bike. I think the Firebird is the one! Cheers and thanks for the reviews.
Jeff - thanks for this video. Your previous Firebird reviews led me to getting a deal on a 2022 year model being sold in the UK. Best bike I have ever owned and pedals amazingly well. Just an awesome bike. I don’t ride it anything like at the level you do though!!! 😂
Great updated review! I had an opportunity to do my own 'updated' Firebird review after owning one in 2023, selling it for a Megatower, and then renting one this year as a hire bike in Morzine. I still think the Firebird is an excellent bike but I still struggled with the reach in medium (I am 178cm). When i swapped to the Megatower (455mm from the Firebird's 468mm) I noticed a huge difference in comfort and confidence for me. Spending a week back on it again in Morzine just confirmed that long reach just isn't for me. As you say in the review, the shorter stays don't help with that either - it really had some surprising balance issues and I still find the Firebird hard to manual vs other 29ers.
my neighbor used to have a Firebird and he's now rocking a Switchblade. That Firebird climbed well I have to say!! It was a fun bike!
I was really pleased with it! And even more so once I got that Float X on there.
Had the exact problem with the fox transfer dropper on my Firebird. Swapped it out for a OneUp
Yeah several of the cable actuated Transfers have been sticky for me. The wireless one was a lot better tho!
I swopped out the dropper too. Mine came with a 175mm Fox dropper in the UK. It is an XL. I changed it for a 240mm One Up - now perfect. I miss the Kashima finish on the dropper, but try not to cry too much about it…
Raceface Turbine R has the same issue, as it's a Fox transfer without kashima. I have the Raceface on my RM Altitude and hate it
I have a medium Firebird, 5'-10" 30"inseam and run a 50mm stem and a 240mm OneUp dropper. It will fit slammed which is nice. I have an X2 and DHX2 for it. Looks like I need to try a Float X since most of my riding is more trail/ aggressive trail with the occasional black...dbl black riding. Thanks for being an enabler!
Your skill level is just something to behold. I wish i could ride like that, but i know my old knees will so no😅
Good review Jeff
Thanks B!
I’ve been very happy with my Firebird. It’s a bike that I can take and do lift service stuff at Deer Valley or go on a regular trail ride with some jumps mixed in or take it to Moab and anywhere I take it. It feels up to the task. I’m 5’6” and ride the size small with XT/XTR and DT Swiss aluminum wheels.
You have me curious about the Float X shock tho 🧐 also thinking about going with a lightweight carbon wheel set.
Glad you're digging your Bird so much Jay! It's a great all arounder- assuming you've got the terrain for it- and Utah/SLC area certainly has plenty of elevation to work with!
Hey Jeff, I gotta step in here. Neo Float X is a different Shock than the regular float X. It has a completely different base valve. And even though you are right, that once the system is turned off, it behaves like a regular Shock, you are experiencing more of a shock that would be in between a base Float X And an X2. I do agree this bike feels better with that shock! Keep up the good work
Howdy Alex! Is that so? My bad! Cheers man.
i used a ht2 for a long time and had been looking a lot at the pivot firebird for exactly the reasons you mention. it pedals better, and its stiffer. slightly more capable suspension on it usually too, better reach. superboost also actually does help, as annoying as it is to be another standard. i dont mind the short stays, it does make it feel a bit more traily.
The Firebird is a great all arounder- as long you've got somewhat "legit" terrain, I enjoy it more than the Switchblade. I'd recommend a little Float X over the stock Firebird shock tho!
@@JeffKendallWeed yeah you got me curious. my friends run the dhx2 and x2 on them and they like the dhx2 but not the x2 as much.. maybe they just need a x :)
I think the valving on aftermarket is better than OEM- pivot puts a lot more emphasis on pedaling support than I ever have. Aftermarket is more my style- a bit more open and playful.
@@JeffKendallWeed The 2025 Float X aftermarket comes with a new compression shim stack. It's an absolutely brilliant tune. Best shock Fox have ever made ( although I have blown the damping circuit after a year... :-) )
Check out the Tigon as an aftermarket option with tunability for the versatility of this bike🤙
Great video as usual. To answer the question, I prefer to be over biked. I’m 6’3”, 215, and Canadian born so I’m clumsy and over biked = insurance. Loving my Ripmo AF, but wish I could find a bike that could come factory with bar height near saddle height. Always buying bars and stem, but that’s probably a first world problem.
ive posted this before, but i still really want a firebird for riding around my neighborhood
woops i meant phoenix. smash like and subsbsbs
You must have one gnarly neighborhood!
I am so excited 🎉 Great video!
Yeah the Firebird might be the new "enduro bike as your only bike" with the departure of the previous gen RM Altitude. I still think the 21-23 Altitude is the ultimate do everything enduro bike with its much more balanced and precise downhill feel vs the Firebird where I feel like you're mainly riding it off the back despite the very long reach. I was between the Firebird and Altitude last year and ended up getting a 2023 Altitude.
Would love to try a Pivot sometime, when they start with threaded bottom brackets and normal boost spacing. So probably never?
LOL maybe just not the bike for ya? I am not afraid to say I appreciate the SB, I really like those stiff feeling bikes. I haven't had an issue with a shimano press fit BB ever. In 2012 we did have some undersized BB shells go out while I was at Ibis, but things have been great ever since.
@@JeffKendallWeed Haha maybe not! No but honestly - I would love to try one. I just cant get behind brands doing press fit in 2024. As a home mechanic, who does everything except for 200hr suspension service, press fit is not very appealing.
And I get the reasoning behind the superboost rear, but I have to get a wheel with that spacing for that bike, that i'll probably never use again for any other bike!
They have some attractive prices right now, but I went for a megatower v2 instead, since doesnt have any of the two above. (and it was available as a frameset)
Jeff. I went on a rant… I really like your videos and channel. My comment has nothing to do with your videos.
😂 I could tell! I did read your comment to my girlfriend, and we definitely shared a laugh over it! Thanks for the follow up David!
Great video. Be curious to hear more on chainstay length. E.g. is it more absolute length or ratio? e.g., this Firebird looks like it went way short on the rear end....then moved all if the length into the front throwing things way out of balance....keep the videos coming!
I love my 2023 model altitude, would love it if you revisited that bike somehow in your videos
Such a fun rig! Logan has one and rides in a lot.
awesome riding ! at 183cm I feel between M and L (tried so far only L, felt a little too big...)
Yeah Pivot sizing runs huge. I'm a size L on most bikes, but a M on Pivots.
I always complain about not having any trails near me- but at least I also don't have to fear giant bears.. which is a unforseen advantage to be honest :)
Oh damn a grizzly! Only ever seen one once - Grand Teton on the Death Canyon Trail.
Nice Andrew! Yeah this is my one and only sighting/encounter. I've been thru griz country a ton tho.
You should review the Rocky Mountain growler.
I would like you to compare the Hightower V4 to the Pivot Firebird with a live valve shock on the Hightower V4. Then you be able to make comparison of geometry not suspension tuning.
I rode Float X in analog mode a ton on the Firebird. And the HT4 has an analog Float X on it- literally an apples to apples comparison. HT4 was great, I like that rear end length. The stiffness of the Firebird is better tho.
Thank you for your response. Was not sure or the length time you rode the Firebird with Neo inactive. Valving on both shocks is still most likely different. Just thought running both with Neo would be more of a neutral comparison between bikes.
Fox guy chimed in the comments above that the LiveValve Float X does have a more aggressive base valve than the standard Float X, so I was wrong. But on the trail, the "unplugged" Float X Neo feels great- not far off from the Float X on the Hightower- and much more open than the stock Float X that comes on the Switchblade.
Nice bike🤟🤟
Great review. Bosh.
Thanks J!
The saying in the dual sport world is the same as Mtb. A smaller bike on a big trail is a lot more fun than a big bike on a small trail.
I also despise the Fox/Raceface droppers. Every single Fox Transfer or Raceface Turbine R I've ridden, including the one on my bike have the issue where they don't want to come up.
Exploring and traveling I'd rather be overbiked but on what I know the minimum is usually more fun.
underbiket for sure XC backround:)
would you put a float neo on the hd6 or stick with x2?
Hi Jeff. How about a test ride of the Madonna Raaw V3? 🤙
I won't say no, but that's a super rare bike here in the USA! I've only seen a few Madonnas ever!
Sounds kind of like your prior generation Altitude review. How does the firebird compare to that bike? Do you think the Altitude would run better with a Float X or X2? I have been debating on trying a cheap used Float X for fun.
Nice Griz!
Right? So beautiful!
Over biked or under biked, totally depends in the bike and location. I don't think i could answer without knowing those things
When yow tow the bike using the Motorcyle its like our style to go to the top to downhill here in the Philippines
Hahaha awesome Jason! For the 4000' climbs, it's a game changer! Then it's super fun on the descents to ride with a moto in the crew!
@JeffKendallWeed we paid $2-3 usually for the motorcycle rider going to top
Appreciate the insights, Jeff. Any thoughts about similar issues/solutions on the Switchblade? I have a 2022 and have struggled to get the suspension to feel supple rather than harsh. Was considering an aftermarket shock (Cane Creek coil?) - do you think it would help? OK losing a bit of efficiency for the extra plush. Thx!
Hey Brian- yes I do think going with an aftermarket shock would help. Cane Creek tends to run a lot of damping, so for a more plush coil, I'd consider something from Fox or Rock Shox first. At 175lbs, I found the Tigon to be a little overdamped for me on all the bikes I tried it on. The Fox and RS stuff is also a lot cheaper. Also- don't hesitate to put an angle adjust headset on that SB and slacken it out a full degree! I really liked the angle adjust on the 2024 SB.
@@JeffKendallWeed Thanks a lot for your insights! re: the head angle, I did put a Wolf Tooth angle adjust in there and do like it a lot.
Worth moving up from a Switchblade?
If you're not riding gnarly stuff that's steep and requires more travel, there's really no point. I've upgraded my switchblade with 2 degree angled headset and a dhx2 and it is very capable. This bike just requires you to be comfortable riding a little forward, and it loves to fly.
Another request for a Trek Fuel Ex review. I really think it would be a great comparison since it seems most reviewers don’t have a relationship with trek and a relationship with the boutique brands (ibis pivot yeti etc) and since you speak so much out frame stiffness, I’m curious how the Fuel Ex with its commonly reported stiff frame would fare. Also I’m guessing it’s being updated next year since the gen 4 top fuel came out this year…
Fuel and Slash have both been heavily requested. Unfortunately I rarely see Trek bikes, as they aren't very popular around my area. If the stars align, I'll totally try them out.
Love the E-MTB fork you have on it 😂 16:20
It came stock like that- hence the color matched decals. There must have been some sort of supply chain issue! It's a 2023 fork, just a Grip2, and not the new GripX2.
Whereare these trails?
All in the PNW.
Under biked, more fun pushing the bike than being pushed by the bike.
is this the perfect bike minus superboost?
No such thing as being over-biked, only under-trailed!!
Kyle, you made me LOL! Good call, man.
Man these bots are quick to comment
Ufff it's the inner net in 2024, more bots than bikers!
I’m not even through the video but we have to out comment the bot lol.
Thank you
Hey Dude,
firstly, that sure is some spectacular scenery - even without the grizzly bear lumbering nonchalantly into view…(did you take any spray… or perhaps a gun with you - I certainly would have).
I used to live in the French Alps, near the Mont Blanc, so can readily relate to such magnificent vistas.
You may remember that I chatted with you a few months back - regarding “stock-bike” reviews verses too many switch-outs thus making your conclusions all but moot for those of us that just buy & ride…
Anyway, I wanted to run something by you regarding what I think is a fallacy that has somehow permeated the entire mountain biking world…concerning one of your pet-hates, mullet set-ups… ;-)
I’m sure with your inquisitive, logic-based mind and innate confidence to readily receive the message without feeling the need to shot the messenger when it disagrees with you, you’ll be able to say whether I’m a bleeding genius or a bloody fool…
So, here it is:
Everyone blithely trots out the same old trope that 27.5” rear wheels result in higher roll-over resistance than 29’ers… Citing an argument that is correct in essence (a larger diameter means any encountered impedance translates into a lower relative “slowing” ratio - resulting in the wheel being more able to flow over, rather than be stopped by rocks, roots or abandoned rucksacks…
So far so good…
But here’s the mistake I believe the industry-parrots are making:
There is a key variable to this thesis… That is to say - where the derived source of power lies: Behind, thrusting the wheel forward. Or, in front, pulling the wheel with it…
This makes a huge difference.
If you visualize pushing a wheelie bin (with 2 small wheels at the back) and mentally draw out an array of arrows representing all the lines-of-force you add to the wheelie bin to make it go forward, some would be horizontal (exerting energy in the same direction as you are walking). But some would be angled down to the ground at varying degrees.. Representing energy that inefficiently is wanting to add pressure to the wheelie bin to dig into the ground (because, being taller than the bin, when we push, we do so with inescapable angular momentum).
On a flat and (importantly) smooth surface, this isn’t too noticeable. And makes little difference.
The wheelie bin is happy to move ahead of the source of propulsion - even though some of the energy-force is pointing not horizontally forward, but down into the ground yet to be covered.
Now, keep everything else the same, except for adding one new element to the system - varying sized stones, rocks and boulders along one’s intended pat -, it’s clear that progress will duly be severely hampered… For the simple reason that when you push the wheelie-bin’s wheels up against anything in it’s way, a proportion of the force one is exerting will not be encouraging the bin to move forward - but rather, sending the wheels down into the rock face/ground..
Changing the diameter of the wheels by 5% will have little to no tangible effect.
But what REALLY does make a huge difference is: If, rather than pushing from behind the wheelie bin, you stand in front of it and pull!
This is because rather than the aforementioned vectors of energy being directed down into the obstacles, they are now being “pulled” forward and (tellingly) upwards… Meaning the wheels inherently want to rise up and over (rather than down and under) whatever they encounter…
Thus, bringing this all back to mullet-configured bikes…
People, when they trot out the long-held perceived wisdom that a smaller back wheel means less ability to ride fast through rock-gardens and over roots etc, are fundamentally missing the crucial distinction that the entire source of energy doing all the work is in front of the back wheel (i.e. there is nothing behind that can add to its forward motion either in terms of gravity or pedal thrust).
And therefore, the wheel is being “pulled” up over stuff - rather than pushed into it.
Unlike the front wheel - where all the force-of-movement is behind its axis, and hence why forks compress downwards when a rock-face etc is hit….
CONCLUSION: Mullet set-ups are NO MORE RESISTANT to fast descents/climbs than full 29-ers…
Please mull this mullet musing over and either tell me why I’m wrong… Or spread the word to manufactures/mountain bikers that somehow, right at the begin of a new trend, the industry goofed-up and made claims that were wholly unfounded (as when doctors used to say that smoking was good for you; or that putting radioactive material into toothpaste was smart!!!
Hey there train, thanks for the note. I dislike mullets because I feel that I need to work harder to keep the bike accelerating through rough terrain. Even on the road commutes to and from the trail, I feel like I need to exert more than I do on the bigger wheel bikes. And when descending, and it's time to push into turns, the 27.5 wheel breaks traction sooner. I prefer to pump and carve over skidding and drifting all the time.
@@JeffKendallWeed Sadly (for me), I'm nowhere near good enough (compared to you) to experience the differences you mention... Who would have thought a 5% diameter change would have such a noticeable impact.. especially taking into account the pull rather than push effect i outlined.
def under biked...........that's what makes mtn biking fun
Way too short chainstays. Idk why pivot (and most other DW bikes) keep sticking with super short chainstays when it makes bikes feel so unbalanced. 437 chainstays paired with a 493 reach on the size large is almost unbelievable.
Because it makes the bike fun and agile. I love it.
@lifebehindbarsmtb I've got a rocky mountain instinct which can change between 438 and 448mm chainstays with a flip chip. I did back to back testing with each chainstay length on the same trail and in the 448mm setting the bike didn't lose any agility or fun, but was way more stable and confident. If you haven't tried a bike with over 445 chainstays, you really should. They corner super well
437 would be sweet on the medium! I found that I love the stays on the Shuttle SL- but the weight of the e system is then made even less noticeable, so that bike has a different intent. Overall I absolutely dig the Firebird as it is. While I may complain a little about the rear end, it's totally not a deal breaker by any means.
@@JeffKendallWeed that makes sense. I had a banshee titan for a while, with a 475 reach and 453 chainstays and it was one of the best cornering and most stable bikes I've owned. I currently have a spire, and I really think it's 448 chainstays are what makes it so confidence inspiring, not the 63 degree HA
Blud I guarantee it's all in your head and the chainstay hardly makes a difference.
Dude, you rip
Thanks Noah!
Dude! You've lost a little weight or was it just the beard trim? Ha!
Hahaha naaah I've weighed a legit 175lbs for the last five or so years. No changes. Beard removes a few lbs on camera tho!
Fast
Sadly still too long a top tube in medium. Pivot's ongoing looong ETT geo makes the bike unwieldy for most riders which is a shame as otherwise its a lot of fun ( even if you dont mind the short chain stays or having to ride the bike rather forward due to that)
Marketing is so disingenuous. Manufacturing copies each other. Labels, geometry, and everything else. Brunch Ride vrs Lunch Ride. Awful…Acronyms as as well. Bothersome. First time I ever saw LR on Yeti’s site I gave them too much credit. I thought being equipped with a longer fork maybe they were trying to imply longer front center and label the bike (“Long Reach “) . That would make more sense and not be as entertaining or “not as cool” some guys taking their overforked bikes out for lunch. OOOH!
Make me laugh at the industry.
Conservative geometry vrs Aggresive geometry is inaccurate.. Slack means relaxed. Long and low means slow responding and stable which is actually “conservative” not aggressive. We label Geo on types of riding we ride with bike; not on how the bike responds. It’s misleading!
Everyone rides aggressive trails with conservative bikes.
Don’t believe me. Think about it. BMX and DJ’ s are actually aggressive responding geometry. Go ride aggressive trails with the DJ and you understand slack, long and low is so conservative by definition…
Jeff. I went on a rant… I really like your videos and channel. My comment has nothing to do with your videos.
@@davidrioux611it’s ok man, you were just having a moment 😂 hopefully writing all that was therapeutic for you 🤞🏻