This looks the same way as doing a Mercedes box. Looking to do a fluid and filter change on my 2008. Would you drain and re fill the torque converter? Thanks in advance
@@Lee_Pitcher It's probably very similar especially if it has a ZF transmission. Definitely wouldn't hurt to drain the converter and get all the old fluid out!
Thanks. Very useful. Here are some observations/questions : 1) I take it when the engine is on tranni fluid is being pumped into the radiator, this is why fluid does not gush out when the drain plug is opened? Turning off the engine allows the fluid in the radiator to drain back into the tranni and 'over fill' it? 2) It is my understanding you DO NOT put it in drive/reverse the first time you run the engine but only the second time? You can also flush a sealed tranni this way : you fill the tranni, then start the car and put it in drive/reverse cycle several times for about five minutes. You then drain and refill the tranni and repeat. Do this two or three times and you get about 95% of the old tranni fluid out of the tranni. Just draining by dropping the pan gets about 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid. This is expensive way to do it but if you have shifting issues or badly worn or burnt fluid it is worth doing.
Greetings from Tasmania. I'm genuinely impressed with your presentation and helpful comments thank you also for not playing any annoying background music. If you ever find yourself downunder, you're invited for lunch or dinner. Just give me a hoy. 👍
Thanks for sharing the process of the transmission oil pan removal and the fluid replacement process. That made me ready to do mine which was nearing 80k miles as a daily driver. Good zip-tie use tip to hold the gasket onto the oil pan. The filling-up and after-settling topping-up procedure is such a cumbersome one, but worth the time DYI'ing. Maserating Everyday.
No problem!! I’m glad that it was helpful! The zip tie trick really comes In handy. I agree, the topping off procedure can be a real pain! Keep on driving and thanks for watching!
I’m a fan of Maserati F136 engines and ZF transmissions! I am reaching out to my favorite RUclips mechanics to start to test Mobil 1 full synthetic multi vehicle ATF (grey bottle black label) and Amsoil OE Fuel Efficient full synthetic ATF. According to my favorite engineering blogger/engine builder RAT540 who’s now torture tested at least 298 individual engine oils and recently gear and ATF. He ranks that Mobil1 multivehicle full synthetic ATF (gray bottle/black label) as his best performing oil under his unique engineering torture test. Amsoil ATFs also test really well particularly the least expensive “OE Fuel Efficient ATF” if you want thinner viscosity such as what the ZF 6HP uses. But he has stated even the marginally thicker Mobil 1 grey bottle black label will work in any light duty automatic transmission. And new OE mandates for thinner engine oil and ATF isn’t in the interest of the long term owner but for the terrible CAFE standards which “owners can never measure in the real world.” He actually says the Valvoline Maxlife full synthetic ATF seized immediately the same as Mobil multi blue bottle and Ford Mercon LV iirc. He says under most cases, OEM fluid tested usually POORLY and claims it’s just a market profit grab. Shocking I know. It might be “probably ok” as long as routine maintenance is done sooner than later, but RAT540 is usually ON THE MONEY…
@@TinkeringWithT I haven’t done a ZF yet with the Mobil1 FS multi vehicle formula YET. Maybe in a couple days. But I’ve been using the Valvoline Maxlife for years on numerous platforms including ZF. I bet ya it’s all good provided the oil is changed sooner than later and not ignored
thank you for the video. i have an 06 however im confused with both the gearbox and the transmission fluid . im not sure where each one goes. can you guide me through the correct way? thank you!
I literally just did this with my 08 and you saved me my guy! I hope I put enough fluid back in lol jk. But really please post as many as you like. Thanks
Heck yeah!! Glad I could help! Yeah, putting the fluid back in can be a bit tricky! But you’ll know if there’s not enough. It won’t shift right. Thanks for watching!
I didn’t with that one, the most important thing is to make sure the both mating surfaces are clean, and to make sure the bolts are torqued down, and it should be good to go!
So wait.. lol. Does the Transmission temperature need to be 50-60 degrees Celsius before trying to fill up or just when checking if you have enough fluid? Or errr. What am i trying to ask lol. When exactly does the Transmission need to be that temperature? You put the pan back on, you opened up the bolt, inserted the pump and you pumped fluid in until it streamed out. You then put the bolt back in. Started the car & removed the bolt again and pumped fluid until it streamed out. You put the bolt back in and then Did the gear changes ( Drive / Reverse ) and then you left car running and yanked the bolt again to see if its was streaming out. At what point in any of that, do I need to make sure my Temperature is within that range? lol. Thatll help me alot better.
Its been awhile but if I remember correctly, you fill it until the fluid runs out the full hole, then you are safe to start it and let it run/shift through the gears. Let it run until it reaches that temp, then remove the bolt and check to see if it needs more fluid or if it’s good to go! Hope that makes sense haha
I haven't had to replace a starter on it yet, it's my neighbors car so next time he is home, I'll pop underneath it to see how involved a starter would be!
Maserati says that their fluid is a “Lifetime” Fluid and doesn’t need to be changed.. this car had 30k on it and the fluid still looked really clean. The pan gasket just started leaking for whatever reason. Im not 100% sure of the interval though
Per ZF they recommend changing the fluid on all of their Transmissions at 50k miles, there is no such thing as lifetime fluid unless you want to just plan to rebuild/replace the transmission when it fails. It would not have a drain and fill plug if it wasn't meant to be changed.
The pan can fall out when all the bolts are removed. Make sure to keep a hand on it when removing. The filter inside the transmission is bolted in if I remember correctly, but it has been a little while. Just take your time and you'll get it!
If I remember correctly, I just re-used the old ones. Technically, you're supposed to replace them, but I couldn't find any at the time, and they were too expensive. It was on my neighbors car, and it still hasn't leaked a drop! Save your money!
Finally someone posted a video like this you literally can’t find a transmission fluid change anywhere 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
I'm glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!!
@@TinkeringWithT one question how many liters are going back in the transmission when I am filling it.
@@thatmazikid If I remember correctly, it took about 4.5 Liters!
This looks the same way as doing a Mercedes box. Looking to do a fluid and filter change on my 2008. Would you drain and re fill the torque converter? Thanks in advance
@@Lee_Pitcher It's probably very similar especially if it has a ZF transmission. Definitely wouldn't hurt to drain the converter and get all the old fluid out!
Thanks. Very useful. Here are some observations/questions :
1) I take it when the engine is on tranni fluid is being pumped into the radiator, this is why fluid does not gush out when the drain plug is opened? Turning off the engine allows the fluid in the radiator to drain back into the tranni and 'over fill' it?
2) It is my understanding you DO NOT put it in drive/reverse the first time you run the engine but only the second time?
You can also flush a sealed tranni this way : you fill the tranni, then start the car and put it in drive/reverse cycle several times for about five minutes. You then drain and refill the tranni and repeat. Do this two or three times and you get about 95% of the old tranni fluid out of the tranni. Just draining by dropping the pan gets about 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid. This is expensive way to do it but if you have shifting issues or badly worn or burnt fluid it is worth doing.
Greetings from Tasmania.
I'm genuinely impressed with your presentation and helpful comments thank you also for not playing any annoying background music.
If you ever find yourself downunder, you're invited for lunch or dinner. Just give me a hoy. 👍
Hey!! Thank you so much for your kind words! It means a lot. I'll let you know if I'm ever there! Would love to visit!! Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for sharing the process of the transmission oil pan removal and the fluid replacement process. That made me ready to do mine which was nearing 80k miles as a daily driver. Good zip-tie use tip to hold the gasket onto the oil pan. The filling-up and after-settling topping-up procedure is such a cumbersome one, but worth the time DYI'ing. Maserating Everyday.
No problem!! I’m glad that it was helpful! The zip tie trick really comes In handy. I agree, the topping off procedure can be a real pain! Keep on driving and thanks for watching!
Thank you for your video! My local dealership told me that they need 17 hours of labour hour to do so... and charge me thousands of dollars on it!😂😂
No problem! Glad I could help out!
I’m a fan of Maserati F136 engines and ZF transmissions! I am reaching out to my favorite RUclips mechanics to start to test Mobil 1 full synthetic multi vehicle ATF (grey bottle black label) and Amsoil OE Fuel Efficient full synthetic ATF. According to my favorite engineering blogger/engine builder RAT540 who’s now torture tested at least 298 individual engine oils and recently gear and ATF. He ranks that Mobil1 multivehicle full synthetic ATF (gray bottle/black label) as his best performing oil under his unique engineering torture test. Amsoil ATFs also test really well particularly the least expensive “OE Fuel Efficient ATF” if you want thinner viscosity such as what the ZF 6HP uses. But he has stated even the marginally thicker Mobil 1 grey bottle black label will work in any light duty automatic transmission. And new OE mandates for thinner engine oil and ATF isn’t in the interest of the long term owner but for the terrible CAFE standards which “owners can never measure in the real world.” He actually says the Valvoline Maxlife full synthetic ATF seized immediately the same as Mobil multi blue bottle and Ford Mercon LV iirc. He says under most cases, OEM fluid tested usually POORLY and claims it’s just a market profit grab. Shocking I know. It might be “probably ok” as long as routine maintenance is done sooner than later, but RAT540 is usually ON THE MONEY…
Thanks for the info!! I’ll definitely give it a try next time I do a service on a ZF! Thanks for watching!!
@@TinkeringWithT I haven’t done a ZF yet with the Mobil1 FS multi vehicle formula YET. Maybe in a couple days. But I’ve been using the Valvoline Maxlife for years on numerous platforms including ZF. I bet ya it’s all good provided the oil is changed sooner than later and not ignored
thank you for the video. i have an 06 however im confused with both the gearbox and the transmission fluid .
im not sure where each one goes. can you guide me through the correct way? thank you!
You could have fitted a larger socket on the end of the hex driver in order to use a torque wrench on the harder-to-access bolts.
Great idea! Thanks for the tip! I’ll definitely keep that in mind if I ever have to take it apart again!
I literally just did this with my 08 and you saved me my guy! I hope I put enough fluid back in lol jk. But really please post as many as you like. Thanks
Heck yeah!! Glad I could help! Yeah, putting the fluid back in can be a bit tricky! But you’ll know if there’s not enough. It won’t shift right. Thanks for watching!
Did you use a gasket sealer like Peratex?
Should you use a sealant like Permatex on the gasket?
I didn’t with that one, the most important thing is to make sure the both mating surfaces are clean, and to make sure the bolts are torqued down, and it should be good to go!
So wait.. lol. Does the Transmission temperature need to be 50-60 degrees Celsius before trying to fill up or just when checking if you have enough fluid? Or errr. What am i trying to ask lol. When exactly does the Transmission need to be that temperature? You put the pan back on, you opened up the bolt, inserted the pump and you pumped fluid in until it streamed out. You then put the bolt back in. Started the car & removed the bolt again and pumped fluid until it streamed out. You put the bolt back in and then Did the gear changes ( Drive / Reverse ) and then you left car running and yanked the bolt again to see if its was streaming out. At what point in any of that, do I need to make sure my Temperature is within that range? lol. Thatll help me alot better.
Its been awhile but if I remember correctly, you fill it until the fluid runs out the full hole, then you are safe to start it and let it run/shift through the gears. Let it run until it reaches that temp, then remove the bolt and check to see if it needs more fluid or if it’s good to go! Hope that makes sense haha
Yeah I filled it until it started coming back out and it’s been driving and shifting perfect. How’s doing a starter on one of these?
I haven't had to replace a starter on it yet, it's my neighbors car so next time he is home, I'll pop underneath it to see how involved a starter would be!
Dis you use a gasket sealer like Permatex?
What are the recommended service intervals for the fluid and or filter?
Maserati says that their fluid is a “Lifetime” Fluid and doesn’t need to be changed.. this car had 30k on it and the fluid still looked really clean. The pan gasket just started leaking for whatever reason. Im not 100% sure of the interval though
Per ZF they recommend changing the fluid on all of their Transmissions at 50k miles, there is no such thing as lifetime fluid unless you want to just plan to rebuild/replace the transmission when it fails. It would not have a drain and fill plug if it wasn't meant to be changed.
Does the pan fall out when u replace it with a new one when I replace mine it falls put
The pan can fall out when all the bolts are removed. Make sure to keep a hand on it when removing. The filter inside the transmission is bolted in if I remember correctly, but it has been a little while. Just take your time and you'll get it!
@@TinkeringWithT thanks mate my car is shifting smoothly please make more content lol
Awesome! I'm glad to hear. Will do! Thanks for watching!
Where did you buy the gasket? Do you have a part number?
I found it on eBay! Here’s the one I used: Transtec B11583 Pan Gasket, Fiber (For Metal pan)
Thanks I will check it out.
Is it ok to re-use the pan bolts? maserati wants me to change them at a cost of $600 for 21 of them?
If I remember correctly, I just re-used the old ones. Technically, you're supposed to replace them, but I couldn't find any at the time, and they were too expensive. It was on my neighbors car, and it still hasn't leaked a drop! Save your money!
If you didn't replace the filter cause it's got low miles why replace the fluid???😂
The pan gasket was leaking all over the place for some reason
PЯӨMӨƧM 😒