Installing an Inducer into a Berkeley 12JG Jet Drive Pump
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- Опубликовано: 15 май 2022
- I put together a quick video talk about what is needed to be done in order to install an Inducer into a Berkeley Jet Drive. This will also apply for other models of Berkeley pumps as well as the Dominator Jet Pumps.
The bulk of the work that needs to be done to accommodate the install of the inducer is the machining down of the pump shaft, directly in front of the impeller. The diameter of the shaft needs to be cut down, and a keyway added.
I purchased my inducer from CP Performance. I was able to send my shaft in to CP Performance and they performed the necessary machine work to my shaft. Now they do include a set of blueprints with the inducer, so you can machine the shaft down yourself, or locally with the aid of a machine shop.
I had a few extra parts that I needed to send back to CP for a return, so I just threw the shaft in the same box and had them take care of the machining.
Now my particular pump was used in a race boat back in the 80's and 90's. Consequently they tightened up all the clearances in the pump. They brought the impeller up closer to the wear ring, and also machined the bowl so it would sit about .030" off the back side of the impeller. I mention this because I found that with the new shaft, that it moved my impeller rearward significantly. I lost the nice tight tolerance at the front of the pump, and the impeller is now sitting so far rearward that installing the bowl would cause the pump to be bound up.
So I will still need to have a little more machine work done to the pump shaft allowing me to move the impeller forward, gaining the clearances that I need.
CP Performance Inducer:
www.cpperformance.com/p-14041...
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Recently bought my first jet boat. I am learning a lot from your channel. Thank you very much.
Awesome! I am glad that the videos are helping you out.
~ Nick
Your shop pooch is just eager to assist! He needs his own tool belt 😊
No no no...
First off, Good videos, good quality and entertaining( dog gets extra treats for being your sidekick) .
Maybe I misunderstood but please don't send that nice SS impeller out to be butchered!
The way to do this job is:
1. Do not modify the impeller for clearance! Always cut the shaft.
2. set the front clearance (leading edge of the impeller wear surface to the suction housing (min .035")) by having the shaft cut (impeller locating shoulder).
3. then have the shaft machined for the inducer.
You show that you currently have "about 1/4" front clearance on your impeller. If you tighten that up (.035" min) you will have better efficiency and also now have clearance for that stuffer.
Liked how you talked about the importance of measuring impeller height vs bowl depth. That will cause some problems if it is negative clearance.
As commented by another viewer on the assembly video, once assembled give the whole thing a spin by hand. Should be NO rubbing.
Kevin,
Thank you for the kind words on my videos. I really appreciate it!!
I agree with you on how to address the clearances. After I made this video my project plans got derailed, as I am in the process of replacing the stringers and transom in the boat. Because of this I have not yet pursued correcting the fitment issue's on the pump. With the benefit of time and being able to give the problem more thought, I have came to the same conclusion that you mentioned below. I am going to have the shaft machined to get the correct placement of the impeller, and inducer. I will then re measure and address the back end of the impeller to the stuffer as needed. If more clearance is needed for the stuffer, I will likely have the mating point of the bowl milled down as needed to get my rear clearance.
Thank you for jumping into the comments and helping to share your knowledge with others. We and our hobby will be better off the more we can all share what we know!
After machining the shaft, then you can just use shims in front of the impeller (they sell for this) and get proper clearances. And if anything is replaced I.e. impeller, you can just shim the new one also.
I gad an 18' American Eagje with the 455 Olds.
A fun boat.
The AA impeller held max rpm to around 4200 and improved the hole shot noticeably for skiing.
It also made for an fairly economical part throttle 30 mph cruise at 3000 rpm.
Would the AA work better for your application
I installed a shouldered wear ring to tighten up impeller to housing clearance.
?
With my engine setup the AA would not work well. The boat will be getting a mildly built 496 that is making peak power in the 6k range. I need the smaller cut impeller to allow the engine to get into its optimal range. Heck I think a B impeller might be a consideration for my setup.
~ Nick
Best boat ever.
don't machine ANYTHING.! just put a spacer shim of the right thickness behind the front trust bearing race and the housing. Now move the whole shaft forward. Just my two cents...
Alex, I never considered that. That is a very clever way to address the issue. Thank you for sharing!!!
I bought a machined shaft from Berkely.
The JG pump I bought was used so the original shaft was worn out so logical thing to do was buy a new shaft machined for the inducer and buy the inducer.
For sure! If you need to replace the shaft def. get an inducer in there!