Ray! That is truly how it's done.....I'd say your garage will withstand an f4 tornado. commerical builder here and I can't tell you how many framers scratch there heads when I ask where the shdu brackets are, you would think they would ask why so many 5/8" rods in the slab.....they just frame around em. Very nice video, air gap below bracket is key.
hi ray, as a retired class a contractor and builder, i must commend you for the quality of the construction and subs. it don't come cheap. when i was in business, our motto was "do it right once". the cost of construction is soon forgotten long after the quality remains. congratulations on the good decisions you have made to get to this point in your life. it is admirable. i worked in the washington, d.c. area for 35 years. we made a ton of money by simply doing good honest work. enjoy, enjoy, enjoy....and worship your wife!!!
Thank you for your kind words! Sounds like you were a very good contractor and you are correct, good quality does come at a price but is well worth it in the long run! Thanks for following the build and stay tuned for more to come soon! Best Regards, Ray
Our local surplus store has a pile (300+ brand new) of these thrown in a giant plastic bin... selling for a few bucks each. I think regular retail on these are like 25 bucks each... I was searching for some information as to what these were used for.. now I know .. Thank you Ray!! Ill go grab a dozen of these just in case!
I have them in the corners in the framing, saw them when I replaced the sheathing at the corner by the patio. We have hurricanes here not earthquakes. Have a lot of termite damage on 11' of garage overhead door wall and need to splice in new top plate. Brick face on front of house so can only get to framing from one side. Looking at different videos for pointers as only the sill plate in good shape. Direct on concrete so must be pressure treated.
Hey Ray, when I had trench open at my house I ran 1/2 tubing from garage to upstairs closet. Now just turn valve on in garage an use any air tool in house for repairs or remodel. I don't even know it's there when not in use.
Thanks for sharing this video. I found it interesting as after I move this summer I'll be creating my own hot rod shop and metalworking empire! That's of course after chemo, surgeries and having any money left! LOL
Amazing how serious earthquake construction is, very impressive hold downs. I was in LA once and there was an earthquake. I won't ever forget it. Easy to understand why they do all this.
Great video. Would installing the crescent washer length-wise with the edges pointing up rather down work? I am running into an issue where I don't have enough bolt length to install the washer like you have and flipping the washer on its side would give me that additional inch or so to thread in the nut.
Ray's Garage that’s what I ended up doing but now I have a bunch of holes on my stud. Any suggestions on how I can fill those holes? Wood putty won’t go all the way in.
@@paulg8252 Unless you can not stand looking at the screw holes don't worry about them or you can fill them with wood epoxy or liquid nails then sand it smooth.
I've used these for an earthquake retorofit where we drilled and epoxied the threaded rod into the existing foundation. Is the the threaded rod in this example a J bolt, already set into the concrete?
Simpson also makes "strong ties" that are used in hurricane country. They are smaller, but more numerous, clips which hold the studs to the bottom plate and top plate, and the rafters/trusses to the top plate. I can tell you first hand they are not tornado proof. Anyway, I used them on homes in FL (required) and in TX (not required). As far as earthquakes, we are clueless around here.
I noticed in various pictures and videos that sometimes there’s a gap between the bottom plate and the hold down and sometimes the hold down is directly on the bottom plate. Is there a right way in the wrong way to do these?
Question: Why is there zig zag split in the middle of the hold down? It looks like it's meant to allow some flex after install but don't why you would want it to flex unless that is the earthquake design portion of the hold down. But still, why would you want it to flex? ...tall buildings need to flex but homes?
I noticed only one thing different that would be required under current California code. On the long wall run your HD's are located maybe 8 or 10 feet apart with 2 by studs between. Where I build, code requires 3 by materials at the edges of the shear ply, or OSB as the case may be. This prevents the studs in these locations from being "blown apart" by the doubled up edge nailing in these locations. Also required is some space between the shear ply sheets. This prevents any buckling of the ply between studs. Earthquake construction is engineering intensive! Great job!
Hello Terry, Thanks for the info. This must be a brand new code since this building had several detailed inspections and all passed with no issues. All my the hold downs are attached to 4 x 6's and the two of the four front wall ones are on 6 x 6's even the inspector said he was coming here if we have a earth quake! Thanks for tuning in!
Sazon Man I would first check with your local code requirements, here in Ca we have earthquakes so these hold downs help keep the building from lifting off the footings. I would think would help in your area as well plus entrance roof support for tornadoes!
Mine all average between 4" to 6" so I would say 5" would be great. It also have some play as to where on the stud you mount your tie downs. I hope this helps.
What is the required on center spacing for the j bolts? What is the minimum distance that they can be from the corners of walls and end of walls? Thanks for this video I'm learning a lot. 👍
Hello Edwin, The spacing requirements for the J-Bolts all depend on your local code and the size of your building. All my specs were done by my Architect ten inspected by the city. Sorry I can not give you exact details. Best Regards, Ray
The HD anchors are usually used in pairs -- one at each end of what they call a shear panel or wall. The plywood and studs between the two posts with HD anchors forms a rigid panel even though its composed of a number of pieces. It is designed to resist loads (quake or wind) applied in-line with the wall. When a quake hits and the ground accelerates and moves in the same direction as the wall all the mass in the roof structure doesn't want to move -- this results in a linear force running parallel to the top plate and applied at the top plate of the wall. This force tries to tip over the wall by lifting one end, the HD anchors are there to prevent this uplift and the resulting damage. Most likely they used 4x6 not because of tensile strength but to provide a wide enough space for all the nails needed for a shear panel plywood nailing. The required length of the shear wall and the number used is calculated by the engineer when he does the wind and seismic loading calks. The normal foundation bolts generally keep the foundation from slipping off the foundation in horizontal sliding, they do add some uplift protection. But the HD anchors keep the shear panel from overturning. The 2x2 washers are new after 1989 because they found the old washers just pulled through the plate in a quake. Also they now require hot dipped galvanized bolts because they found the pressure treated lumber was corroding the bolts away. You will see the roof trusses will be connected to the top plate with metal Simpson clips also the roof sheeting will be nailed to the freeze boards (boards with the vent holes between the trusses) then the freeze boards will nailed and metal Simpson cliped to the top plate as well. All tension loads now are connected with metal connectors. The HD anchors are spaced off the sole plate so the 4x6 is always in tension, if the anchor were bottomed any shrinkage in the 4x6 as it drys out would allow slop space between the 4x6 and plate. Slop space allows things to accelerate in a quake. We have most likely gone way overboard but the structural engineers and Simpson make lots of money selling these things and then we have lawyers. So mr engineer why don't you tell the jury why you under designed the structure.
Nathan Burt Hello Nathan, One of the comments below stated these were installed wrong so I contacted my local code inspector and he stated these are installed correctly per my local code. I would check with your local code for what is required for your area.
They are held off the baseplate to get maximum hold down effect on the post, as when you tighten the nut, it will compress the washer and stretch the U shape bottom of the bracket. The post is holding down the plate - not the bracket. Given the room between the bracket and the plate, you can impose a lot more pressure on it, given the footprint of the post vs. that of the bracket, which is why it is so important to have a good grab with the lag bolts in the post. They transfer a lot of force.
Some serious hardware. Do you have to have the shop engineered or is there a prescription in the local code instructing you on how many and what size etc?
I had it engineered so I would not have issues with the city permits, it cost an extra $500 on top of the architect fees but I feel it was worth it to know I have a safe strong building!
Good value for $500 I'd say. I would have had to charged about $1500 assuming the architects drawing could be adjusted (i.e. no drawings required). We don't do residential however and at $165/hr, $500 doesn't get you much.
If I am building a 18x30 shed and wanted to set my 4x4 post on concrete piers instead of sinking them into concrete would these work to hold it down and what number should I buy, #4 #5 or #6 and where do you get them
Hello Greg, You are correct, it's not a good idea to sink your wood posts into concrete but would not use these. I would use something like this; www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-12-Gauge-Black-Powder-Coated-E-Z-Base-FPBB44/100655350 and sink this into the concrete or bolt it to the surface. I hope this helps. Best Regards, Ray
Hello Martin, I will be insulating and closing in the studs and ceiling once I have all electrical, air, and duct work done. Just need the funds to finish but will get there soon I hope! Thanks for tuning in!
Considering how infrequent really big earthquakes occur in Calif. ,this is overkill . where they really need these holdowns is in hurricane zones . devastating hurricanes happen way more often than strong california earthquakes .
The good news about major earthquakes in California is that they are rare. The bad news is that the big crack in the ground that caused the last one in 1857 is still there.
Maybe you should do some additional research prior to making your post? If you’re going to give out free advice, make sure the advice and comments are correct and in accordance with Simpson’s installation guide and the building codes.
Hey Steven, I am not sure where you are coming from on this? I did not install these my builder did and every step of this build was inspected by the City of Clovis, not only is this building to code its was over built to avoid any and all building code issues. If I am missing something here, please inform me so that everyone will receive correct information. I'm not a builder that's why I hired one of the best in this area to build my shop. Thanks for tuning in and commenting. Best Regards, Ray
Ray Caniglia Hello Ray, the bottom of the HDU should be in contact with the bottom plate, the plywood shear wall (actually a brace wall) should be run horizontally. The City of Clovis Building Inspector should have noted both. Will it work as installed, probably. Is it a 100% correct installation, no. The IRC as well as Simpson Strongtie have detailed design/installations for “Brace wall” depending on the seismic zone location for the installation.
Thanks for the info Steve and am not sure why this was not called out during weekly and most important, final inspections. The shop has been up for well over a year now and I have not noticed any issues as of yet but will have my builder inspect them right away! Thanks again!
Ray Caniglia You’re welcome, always happy to help. Some Building Inspectors are better than others and some, even though you might think they’re being difficult, actually care about the end-user and life-safety issues. I was a lowly Builder of 40 years, who thought I was following building practices correctly. A few years back I began my reinvention as an ICC Certified Residential and Commercial Building Inspector of which I am now. Not that I know it all, but I now know a whole lot more than I did my entire career as a Builder.
@@stevenrich1819 Hello sir, I have a sheer panel wall with 2x8" wide studs that call for an HDU-4. I cannot find any information on whether I am supposed to center the HDU-4 on the center line of the 2x8 stud or is it supposed to be off-set 1 3/4" from the outer wall (as is standard with all the other 5/8" anchor bolts that hold the sill plate to the foundation)? Or does it really matter? Thanks, John in San Diego
From a Simpson strong-tie employee thank you for posting this. Thank you
Thank you for making us excellent products!!!
Got Inspection :)
You're welcome
Ray! That is truly how it's done.....I'd say your garage will withstand an f4 tornado. commerical builder here and I can't tell you how many framers scratch there heads when I ask where the shdu brackets are, you would think they would ask why so many 5/8" rods in the slab.....they just frame around em. Very nice video, air gap below bracket is key.
Many Thanks!!!
hi ray, as a retired class a contractor and builder, i must commend you for the quality of the construction and subs. it don't come cheap. when i was in business, our motto was "do it right once". the cost of construction is soon forgotten long after the quality remains. congratulations on the good decisions you have made to get to this point in your life. it is admirable. i worked in the washington, d.c. area for 35 years. we made a ton of money by simply doing good honest work. enjoy, enjoy, enjoy....and worship your wife!!!
Thank you for your kind words! Sounds like you were a very good contractor and you are correct, good quality does come at a price but is well worth it in the long run! Thanks for following the build and stay tuned for more to come soon!
Best Regards,
Ray
Thanks for the informative video and clear imagery. Appreciated.
You are welcome!
Our local surplus store has a pile (300+ brand new) of these thrown in a giant plastic bin... selling for a few bucks each. I think regular retail on these are like 25 bucks each... I was searching for some information as to what these were used for.. now I know .. Thank you Ray!! Ill go grab a dozen of these just in case!
Thanks Danny! Grab them, I know I paid a lot more than $25 each!!!
Be sure to get the hardware kit (crescent washer and structural lag bolts) with the bracelet.
Wait a minute is that a butt joint at the 3:40 minute mark, that doesn't have studs or ankle bolt anchor bolts within a 12 in of the joint? Hmm
I have them in the corners in the framing, saw them when I replaced the sheathing at the corner by the patio. We have hurricanes here not earthquakes. Have a lot of termite damage on 11' of garage overhead door wall and need to splice in new top plate. Brick face on front of house so can only get to framing from one side. Looking at different videos for pointers as only the sill plate in good shape. Direct on concrete so must be pressure treated.
Hey Ray, when I had trench open at my house I ran 1/2 tubing from garage to upstairs closet. Now just turn valve on in garage an use any air tool in house for repairs or remodel. I don't even know it's there when not in use.
Denny Skerb Great idea! I will be keeping my old air compressor in the garage attached to the house and will be getting a new bigger one for the shop.
Those hold downs are awesome. I've never seen those before. Probably wouldn't do much good here in tornado country though. Lol
Actually they would. The house lifting off the foundation is a serious issue for hurricanes and tornado's.
Thanks for sharing this video. I found it interesting as after I move this summer I'll be creating my own hot rod shop and metalworking empire! That's of course after chemo, surgeries and having any money left! LOL
Hello James, The best of luck with your health and a Godspeed recovery! Keep your plans and dreams in your thoughts and it will happen soon my friend!
Thanks Bud! So if we want to close a garage door... We have to pour a foundation + the Hold Downs + Deputy inspector for Epoxy ?
I got ya 562-413-8159
Thanks Ray! Hope you have a great time at the bash!
Thanks Fred, Take care buddy!
Amazing how serious earthquake construction is, very impressive hold downs. I was in LA once and there was an earthquake. I won't ever forget it. Easy to understand why they do all this.
We really don't get earthquakes here that often mostly we feel the effects of them further away but they still rattle the shower doors pretty good!
Great video. Would installing the crescent washer length-wise with the edges pointing up rather down work? I am running into an issue where I don't have enough bolt length to install the washer like you have and flipping the washer on its side would give me that additional inch or so to thread in the nut.
I would contact Simpson on this question, I do not think you can flip the washer but you can lower the Hold Down a little if needed.
Ray's Garage that’s what I ended up doing but now I have a bunch of holes on my stud. Any suggestions on how I can fill those holes? Wood putty won’t go all the way in.
@@paulg8252 Unless you can not stand looking at the screw holes don't worry about them or you can fill them with wood epoxy or liquid nails then sand it smooth.
No.
You must install the HDU per manufacturers instructions.
You can use a Simpson coupler to extend the bolt length.
Really wood video, what happend if the howld is in the second floor? is it only attached to the roof?
These are only used on first floor. Strap ties are used for second floor.
I've used these for an earthquake retorofit where we drilled and epoxied the threaded rod into the existing foundation. Is the the threaded rod in this example a J bolt, already set into the concrete?
The anchors are larger, longer and more robust than a J Bolt.
The 'j' bolt is the shear bolt bolt that you see with he square washers.
SSTB bolts are used for the HDU's
@@elitespecialinspectionsinc5122 Thanks for sharing this good info!
Simpson also makes "strong ties" that are used in hurricane country. They are smaller, but more numerous, clips which hold the studs to the bottom plate and top plate, and the rafters/trusses to the top plate. I can tell you first hand they are not tornado proof. Anyway, I used them on homes in FL (required) and in TX (not required). As far as earthquakes, we are clueless around here.
I will have to use them on the header beam to the 6 x 6 posts, and on all the trusses as well.
What's the right time to tie the holdown ? Before nails the shear wall or after ? Thanks....
My builder installed them after sheer walls were up and nailed. I would check with your local code to be 100% sure.
@@RaysGarage Thanks.... I think your builder is right ., Make the sheer frame first then tie the holding with footing
I noticed in various pictures and videos that sometimes there’s a gap between the bottom plate and the hold down and sometimes the hold down is directly on the bottom plate. Is there a right way in the wrong way to do these?
Also, I didn’t actually watch the video. I’m going back through and see if you explain that lol
I believe that there should be a a gap per code. Check you local code before installing them. Thanks!
@@RaysGarage thanks for getting back to met
Gap is necessary to properly preload the connection.
WHATS THE PURPOSE OF THE ZIGZAG separation down the center of the of the HDU?
I do not know, that’s a great question for Simpson!
Question: Why is there zig zag split in the middle of the hold down? It looks like it's meant to allow some flex after install but don't why you would want it to flex unless that is the earthquake design portion of the hold down. But still, why would you want it to flex? ...tall buildings need to flex but homes?
I do not know but woud be a good question for Simpson. I do know that these are the approved and required holdowns for our local buildind code.
Thank you that was a very I formative video
Oops meant informative🤣 any videos on shear wall assembly inspections?
I like the 2x6 walls with those full of insulation your shop ac should work well. :-)
Oh yea but for now its open walls until I can build up some savings!
You drill pilot holes prior to driving those HDU5 screws into the 4x6's? Cannot find any literature from Simpson to suggest that. Thanks
👍👌
Ray's Garage I’ll take that as a yes. Lol, thanks!
Skisworkshop It is always good to pre drill but not necessary. If you choose to pre drill keep your holes undersized.
The ESR # is on the HD.
That is what you must refer to
I noticed only one thing different that would be required under current California code. On the long wall run your HD's are located maybe 8 or 10 feet apart with 2 by studs between. Where I build, code requires 3 by materials at the edges of the shear ply, or OSB as the case may be. This prevents the studs in these locations from being "blown apart" by the doubled up edge nailing in these locations. Also required is some space between the shear ply sheets. This prevents any buckling of the ply between studs. Earthquake construction is engineering intensive! Great job!
Hello Terry, Thanks for the info. This must be a brand new code since this building had several detailed inspections and all passed with no issues. All my the hold downs are attached to 4 x 6's and the two of the four front wall ones are on 6 x 6's even the inspector said he was coming here if we have a earth quake! Thanks for tuning in!
I'm planing to build my own garage and would like to know if the HDU holdowns can be used in areas of tornado, such as Ohio state
Sazon Man I would first check with your local code requirements, here in Ca we have earthquakes so these hold downs help keep the building from lifting off the footings. I would think would help in your area as well plus entrance roof support for tornadoes!
How many inches should the bold stick out of the concrete?
Mine all average between 4" to 6" so I would say 5" would be great. It also have some play as to where on the stud you mount your tie downs. I hope this helps.
Enough to where the bolt is atleast flush with the nut after all washers have been installed and tightening is complete
It's marked on the SSTB bolt "embed"
can the HDUs be installed with Titan HD bolts?
Great question, I would contact Simpson to confirm.
What is the required on center spacing for the j bolts? What is the minimum distance that they can be from the corners of walls and end of walls? Thanks for this video I'm learning a lot. 👍
Hello Edwin, The spacing requirements for the J-Bolts all depend on your local code and the size of your building. All my specs were done by my Architect ten inspected by the city. Sorry I can not give you exact details. Best Regards, Ray
Usually within 12 inches from ends or corners and no more than 6 feet apart.
when you have a hold down in the center of the wall you can install it in any side of the 4x post ? ( left or right)
Byron Siss Left or right side is ok as long as The is a anchor in the concrete. I think mine had to be min of 8” in the concrete.
Thank you Ray
You bet!
The HD anchors are usually used in pairs -- one at each end of what they call a shear panel or wall. The plywood and studs between the two posts with HD anchors forms a rigid panel even though its composed of a number of pieces. It is designed to resist loads (quake or wind) applied in-line with the wall. When a quake hits and the ground accelerates and moves in the same direction as the wall all the mass in the roof structure doesn't want to move -- this results in a linear force running parallel to the top plate and applied at the top plate of the wall. This force tries to tip over the wall by lifting one end, the HD anchors are there to prevent this uplift and the resulting damage. Most likely they used 4x6 not because of tensile strength but to provide a wide enough space for all the nails needed for a shear panel plywood nailing. The required length of the shear wall and the number used is calculated by the engineer when he does the wind and seismic loading calks. The normal foundation bolts generally keep the foundation from slipping off the foundation in horizontal sliding, they do add some uplift protection. But the HD anchors keep the shear panel from overturning. The 2x2 washers are new after 1989 because they found the old washers just pulled through the plate in a quake. Also they now require hot dipped galvanized bolts because they found the pressure treated lumber was corroding the bolts away. You will see the roof trusses will be connected to the top plate with metal Simpson clips also the roof sheeting will be nailed to the freeze boards (boards with the vent holes between the trusses) then the freeze boards will nailed and metal Simpson cliped to the top plate as well. All tension loads now are connected with metal connectors.
The HD anchors are spaced off the sole plate so the 4x6 is always in tension, if the anchor were bottomed any shrinkage in the 4x6 as it drys out would allow slop space between the 4x6 and plate. Slop space allows things to accelerate in a quake. We have most likely gone way overboard but the structural engineers and Simpson make lots of money selling these things and then we have lawyers. So mr engineer why don't you tell the jury why you under designed the structure.
If you don't want hold downs, build a box. People like a floor plan with relief, but short stubby walls mean not much overturning resistance.
Excellent explanation. Thank you!!
thanks for the information
Thanks David, I did verify and these hold downs are made to be installed off of the bottom plate just like installed in my shop.
So what's the difference between this and a htt model type hold down
I have no idea Mike, that would be a good question for Simpson.
Advanced technology 💪
Why are they held off the base plate?
Nathan Burt Hello Nathan, One of the comments below stated these were installed wrong so I contacted my local code inspector and he stated these are installed correctly per my local code. I would check with your local code for what is required for your area.
They are held off the baseplate to get maximum hold down effect on the post, as when you tighten the nut, it will compress the washer and stretch the U shape bottom of the bracket. The post is holding down the plate - not the bracket. Given the room between the bracket and the plate, you can impose a lot more pressure on it, given the footprint of the post vs. that of the bracket, which is why it is so important to have a good grab with the lag bolts in the post. They transfer a lot of force.
@@martinpoulsen6564 Many Thanks for this great information and for sharing!!! Cheers, Ray
Interesting to see what you need to have in an earth quake zone. Thanks for the vid Ray, have fun at the bash.
You bet Steve, wish you were going to the Bash, be great to meet in person!
Why is their so many J bolts in some areas?
Hello Jimmy, Per local code this is why there are many J-Bolts plus you must place one on the ends of each of the bottom plate boards.
Engineer design
Some serious hardware. Do you have to have the shop engineered or is there a prescription in the local code instructing you on how many and what size etc?
I had it engineered so I would not have issues with the city permits, it cost an extra $500 on top of the architect fees but I feel it was worth it to know I have a safe strong building!
Good value for $500 I'd say. I would have had to charged about $1500 assuming the architects drawing could be adjusted (i.e. no drawings required). We don't do residential however and at $165/hr, $500 doesn't get you much.
@@barrygerbracht5077 i can draw the hold down drawings for walls
If I am building a 18x30 shed and wanted to set my 4x4 post on concrete piers instead of sinking them into concrete would these work to hold it down and what number should I buy, #4 #5 or #6 and where do you get them
Hello Greg, You are correct, it's not a good idea to sink your wood posts into concrete but would not use these. I would use something like this; www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-12-Gauge-Black-Powder-Coated-E-Z-Base-FPBB44/100655350
and sink this into the concrete or bolt it to the surface. I hope this helps. Best Regards, Ray
NO sawdust....someone has been cleaning (already)😳😳😎
outsidescrewball You got me Chuck, yes I cleaned already!
This thing will be like a Bomb Shelter Ray , LOL !
Cool, see you on Saturday.
These suckers have some sharp edges........🎈
Yes they do and so does many other Simpson metal brackets!
A pair of gloves might help
Good Build RAY
i have CARPENTER BEE;s Making Holes in my Double Top Plate 2x4 to LAY EGGS !!!!!!!!!
No desire for sheetrock? At least the corners aren't framed for it by the looks of things.
Hello Martin, I will be insulating and closing in the studs and ceiling once I have all electrical, air, and duct work done. Just need the funds to finish but will get there soon I hope! Thanks for tuning in!
@@RaysGarage Cool. Usually just easiest to have the framing, including backing, done before you raise the walls, but of course it's doable.
looks good.
Still holding strong and to per local code!
You meant post to support the roof load.
Yes
So much for the California corner.
Considering how infrequent really big earthquakes occur in Calif. ,this is overkill .
where they really need these holdowns is in hurricane zones . devastating hurricanes
happen way more often than strong california earthquakes .
Absolutely!
The good news about major earthquakes in California is that they are rare. The bad news is that the big crack in the ground that caused the last one in 1857 is still there.
Run speaker wires, network cables, and any other low voltage cabling while your open. Just my $.02
Oh yea for sure, I am also running fiber optics to the shop for internet and TV.
My $.02: Run all low voltage wiring in spacious home run conduit.
4038 Medhurst Fork
126 Idella Cove
Maybe you should do some additional research prior to making your post? If you’re going to give out free advice, make sure the advice and comments are correct and in accordance with Simpson’s installation guide and the building codes.
Hey Steven, I am not sure where you are coming from on this? I did not install these my builder did and every step of this build was inspected by the City of Clovis, not only is this building to code its was over built to avoid any and all building code issues. If I am missing something here, please inform me so that everyone will receive correct information. I'm not a builder that's why I hired one of the best in this area to build my shop. Thanks for tuning in and commenting. Best Regards, Ray
Ray Caniglia Hello Ray, the bottom of the HDU should be in contact with the bottom plate, the plywood shear wall (actually a brace wall) should be run horizontally. The City of Clovis Building Inspector should have noted both. Will it work as installed, probably. Is it a 100% correct installation, no. The IRC as well as Simpson Strongtie have detailed design/installations for “Brace wall” depending on the seismic zone location for the installation.
Thanks for the info Steve and am not sure why this was not called out during weekly and most important, final inspections. The shop has been up for well over a year now and I have not noticed any issues as of yet but will have my builder inspect them right away! Thanks again!
Ray Caniglia You’re welcome, always happy to help. Some Building Inspectors are better than others and some, even though you might think they’re being difficult, actually care about the end-user and life-safety issues. I was a lowly Builder of 40 years, who thought I was following building practices correctly. A few years back I began my reinvention as an ICC Certified Residential and Commercial Building Inspector of which I am now. Not that I know it all, but I now know a whole lot more than I did my entire career as a Builder.
@@stevenrich1819 Hello sir, I have a sheer panel wall with 2x8" wide studs that call for an HDU-4. I cannot find any information on whether I am supposed to center the HDU-4 on the center line of the 2x8 stud or is it supposed to be off-set 1 3/4" from the outer wall (as is standard with all the other 5/8" anchor bolts that hold the sill plate to the foundation)? Or does it really matter? Thanks, John in San Diego