3 Tips for Smart Garage Framing
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Matt stops by one of Steve Baczek's jobs to learn about some smart techniques Steve implements when building his garages.
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This is a good book. Does provide a step by step introduction to how to build things ruclips.net/user/postUgkxhgbP-6hUnXu_QRaoHgLztgsI0YF3HqR0 , also does offer some steps. Includes pictures to give you ideas for layouts and such. If you are looking for a guide, this is not exactly what you want. But if you are trying to familiarize yourself with the way that pole barn building and other out buildings, are made, then this will work just as you need it to. A few things in this book are a barn (of course), detached garage, storage building, and coops.
Any explanation for why we would want the two 2x6s around the door? The video says you SHOULD do this, but it doesn’t (clearly) articulate WHY.
Also interested
It allows the steel garage door track to clear the concrete wall.
@@jesseherman2453 Yes it does but also gives you a nailer for door trim to grade
Gives you a nailer for door trim to grade, You need the trim all the way down for the flashing
Makes it stronger. Like they the bigger the better.
You guys don't explain *why* you add the extra 6". Is it to give more room to swing car doors open? To provide more facing area for trim boards? Is it just about aesthetics or something else? Also agree with the comment to install wider garage doors if you can. They make such a big difference for ingress and egress given the trend towards larger vehicles, and also give you more aisle space to open doors or carry stuff without dinging the vehicles parked inside. I installed 9' wide doors in our custom house, and ended up with a good 4' of aisle space between our cars, and also more clearance on both end walls for shelving.
the extra 6" is measured to the concrete, its to give room for the extra treated timber up the sides which they have already have fitted.
I'm going with the reason is for trim around the jamb not needing to be scribed around the concrete foundation stem. Much cleaner detail if you can afford the inches.
Ahhh, new to this channel, eh? They give the special details, but you’ll have to figure out why if you care enough!
i have water coming in from when the wind blows the rain on the garage door. mainly happens on the corners. is this normal?
@@randomrazr I assume on the bottom of the door? Maybe add a drip edge or a rubber strip under the door, so it closes the gap when you close the door.
nice detail on the doors. on my own we had to cut the concrete to fit a replacement door. having a treated timber surround thats also easily replaceable is a smart idea.
also nice job on the roof ties. more the better. nothing like a blown in garage door to lift up the roof.
I love watching the two of you together. I have no idea why, other than I want to see how a good quality structure should be built. From a woman in Oklahoma ❤
The order of frustration of home owners with garages.
#1 garage door header is too low,if a bonus room is above it...header should be directly under ceiling joists/rafters whatever you call them.
#2 it's too shallow and/or narrow,you need room to open doors,have storage ÷ appliances on side/rear.
#3 elevate garage slab to have slope to keep water from coming underneath.
Notches/curbs are annoying to roll or even walk over unless you live in a high wind area .
Grass and organics blow against driveways and soon its taller than the driveway surface creating a dam.
#4 aesthetically/functionality you need 4ft of wall between doors.
You can have your choice of storage/water hose reel/vacuum/mop sink on the inside,and it looks more balanced on the exterior.
Too narrow/short of a garage seldom see vehicles,because it simply is not functional and water runs underneath from poor slope.
All those things work well in Kansas or parts of Texas, we were restricted by zoning here
Say you know a bad driver and she's likely to back into that middle post. Hypothetically! How much abuse can that system take?
Or do I need to just do a steel header beam to steel posts and accept who she is? Wait, forget the marriage counseling part.
Steel Beam, Steel Posts, sacrificial Steel Bollards in front of the posts, parking sensors, good inurance. 😄
Pumicecrete is by far the best building material on the planet Pumicecrete is a mixture of pumice cement and water mixed and poured into a set of reusable forms walls are poured from 12"to 24" thick pumicecrete is fireproof termite proof rust rot and mold proof non toxic and has a high R value and good sound attenuation solid poured walls means no critters can live in your walls Pumicecrete can be built for a fraction of the cost and time and pumice is one of the few building materials that can go directly from the mine to the job site ready to use without any additional possessing and zero waste Google all the walls of my house are made of pumicecrete Take care Ray
We did that on our new build garage. Also extra tall 9 ft garage so I can park my truck or SUV with Yakima carrier on it. without have to worrying about it hitting the garage door
My only hang-up and pet peeve with this garage build is the amount of space that will be on the drivers side of the car in either parking space in the garage. I think there should be a minimum 24" in the center or either side of the garage specifically, so that you can park your car and get in and out of your car without having to pull some sort of Dukes of Hazzard move. The OTHER reason is that it allows you room to run shelving and 2' counters to work on in the garage, or roll your tool chest against a side wall and still be able to open a drawer when you have your car parked, and the garage door shut in the dead of winter. Or, to be able to store your lawn mower, rototiller, spreader... That 24" on both sides of a garage and center is important.
I tend to agree with you, but check out how deep the garage seems to be when they walk in at the beginning. Plenty of room for a workshop area deep inside. Also, I get the feeling this is a special use garage since it’s obviously freestanding on a large property. For instance the owner has two vintage Porsches and wants a place to winter them. Smaller sports cars would still have plenty of room if those are 10’ doors.
Yeah that garage should be 22 feet wide and 24 feet deep to allow for 2 foot cabinets
You are exactly right. Even if it is a special use garage, building for future use when someone may want to pull a truck and large SUV into the space will be tough. They aren't cramped for lot size, so taking 3' off the depth and adding it to the width if budget is a concern would have been way smarter. EVERYBODY knows, figure out the amount of space you want, then double it for your garage.
“figure out the amount of space you want, then double it for your garage.”
You mean like building an extra 2-car garage because you have room on the property?
It's 24' wide and 26' ft deep, that is the biggest we could make it
What is the price differential between 8’ and 9’ garage doors from a builder’s perspective? The difference from a user perspective is huge! Same question for a 7’ high door vs 8’ high door.
Thumbnail looks like a guillotine. I'm like, finally, let's get this show rolling. At least bust out the roofing tar. And chicken feathers.
I have a pickup and an Expedition. I need 18 inches of space on each side of my 9 foot wide single garage doors to swing the vehicle doors completely open. This means the divider between the two garage doors is 18 inches (unless you intend to open the doors of both cars at the same time, which I don't). You could accomplish the same thing with a 20 foot wide double garage door, but not the standard 18 footer. I like to store stuff 3 feet deep along the walls beside the vehicles, which means I need 4'6" between the edge of each garage door and the side walls. So the total interior width of the 2-car garage is 28'6". Works great and I have tons of storage.
Interior length is 24 feet which leaves room for shelves or cabinets on the back wall too. I have a separate workshop, so no need to squeeze that into the garage space.
First thing I noticed..... strapped ceiling. Nice!
He added PT wood on only the bottom few feet of the exposed door framing and pieced in pieces of non-PT above it. Why, other than to save a few bucks? It creates a joint on the weather-exposed frame. Unfortunately, I’ve seen more un-treated wood used for the exterior framing on the garage door and have replaced a bunch of it later (when it rotted) with PT.
If you look at the start of the video, you can see that the Zip sheathing has been taken over the entire door frame, providing some cover to the untreated wood (from the front), but I agree it would have been more sensible to ensure the all timber that is facing the opening is PT so that the side is also protected. Others have commented that 1 inch of a non-rotting material (e.g. PVC) at the very foot for the frame would give much greater protection from standing water wicking its way up the end grain.
It's so nice to have a wide garage door. My builder house from the 1990's have two 7 foot doors, inside is only 15 foot wide, so you cannot open driver door if you pull in on the left or passenger door if you pull in on the right. Terrible working space, but what can you do.
Partner with Simpson and a do a deep dive on the strong wall. I’ve always done “flag” sheathing inside and out.
Nice framing and ideas, but don't like the little space between the doors and the sides to the wall, if you have two cars in the garage, it is hard to open the doors without hitting the wall or the other car, an extra foot makes a big difference.
We were restricted by zoning
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Interesting. I wouldn't have guessed that.
Are those your wife's jeans?
Love the 2x12's and 4 ply lvl. Builders around here would TJI w/o beam through middle or sloping flat trusses wall to wall just to cheap out.
@garyflippin1690 - What's TJI?
@@bethanyanderson1745 It is a manufacturer of Engineered Floor Joists
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 - thank you
Somebody tell Jaime Perkins that Matt just called OSB plywood. Itll give him ammo against his brother and the Huber folks next time they break his balls for it. "BUT MATT RISINGER DID IT!"
Why do you have the beam running down the middle of the garage and use 2x roof framing? Seems like TJI would have not a problem with that span across the garage. Less structure and labor? Curious if there was another reason.
It cost a little more and the whole house is framed with 2X12 rafters so i wanted to keep it in the family, all rafter cuts are the same now
Use masonite for protection
Nice. That's a big beam for the mid-span. I got that you needed that for the length limitation on the 2x12's, but, did you consider use of a clear span truss instead? I assume that's a cost consideration?
We did, but the rest of the house was 2X12 so this keeps it in the framers mindset for the project, also give the homeowner some storage above on the high side
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Good stuff Steve. Thank you. I ask because I'm getting ready to build an almost identical looking free-standing garage (24' span) and wondering about a clear span vs a center lvl.
@@joemartino6976 Steven, knowing that an area like that is going to be used for storage, do you ever print any information on beams etc. to help the homeowner known how much weight they can load onto it?
Please tell me those doors aren’t 8ft wide… only 10 ft for me…
they aren't - all good?
With all of us (especially today’s new home customer) getting EV’s, you need a divider wall between the garage bays that’s a foot wider than the house you showed (should be 3-ft minimum). That location between the garage doors is prime real estate for the Level 2 car charger that can reach cars in either bay! The EV charger is another reason to go with two doors in a 2-car garage, instead of one large door.
Also, our builder recommended 9’ wide doors to appease the “F-150” crowd with their large mirrors. We went with a “small” 9’W x 8’H door plus a “large” 9’W x 10’H door - and we are glad we did.
A good idea for how to set up a modern garage for EV’s might be a good video topic. Since EV manufacturer’s have not yet standardized the location for the charging port (front, rear, left, right), it actually might be best to have a post between between the bays halfway down the parking stall to reach all four corners of a possible EV. Charger cords are only a max of 25 ft by code, which is very short.
We were restricted by zoning
In the UK, I've heard a suggestion that there should be a Fireman's switch on the outside of buildings to cut the power to EV chargers in case of fire.
@@tlangdon12 In the U.S., I think the firefighters can pull the meter, which is normally on the outside of the building, and that cuts the power to the whole building. I think my meter panel (located outside my garage) also has disconnect switches inside for the two 200 amp panels in my garage, allowing a firefighter to turn off power to the house.
Hey Matt, I just stumbled across this video. Looking forward to seeing what else you have on your page. Thanks for having Steve on. I just took a quick glance at his page that you suggested and it is looking good also. I'm impressed with what I see from both of you. Thanks.....
I’m 23 years old and have started my garage door company because I worked for somebody else but then the company got sold out to some no good people and little videos like this are helping me so much especially when talking to builders and having them ask me how they want things framed up and what not really good video
I’m sorry this is a bit off topic and you may have addressed this in a different video. You seal your houses so tightly if it keeps out air and bugs I wonder how well it would do in a flood situation? Just a thought, love your videos
i like the rafters it will be a strong garage roof that's for sure.
Potential for Solar PV Array
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 yes, great idea steve
I know I'm late, but CONGRATULATIONS on the million mark!🎉🎉👍
He's killin it!!!
What happens when someone slides on the ice and takes out the post. Will the garage collapse. BTW a neighbor of mine with an SUV with a roof bike rack. Hit the header so hard on their triple car garage that it took out the post wall supporting it. Made a real miss of this gable end wall. The house was sheeted with cost saving cardboard crap. Obviously, plywood or OSB would have been much better.
I would say it was likely that the garage would collapse, but that's why we have insurance. You could install a couple of sacrificial steel bollards in front of it as some further insurnace.
by the look of steve's face you better put a hurricane strap every joist 5:12
👍👍
Awesome work. Thanks guys!!
thanks for joining in
Which is better light or dark roof shingles?
You really had to check with the engineer ?
Yes, for portal design - it is very sensitive with the numbers for shear loading etc - we don't guess with clients homes
That's because those hold-downs are required for seismic locations.
Since most of the country lies in Class A or B, standard fasteners are sufficient.
There are better straps that don't chip away however. And if you design the coverage to be thick enough, you won't have that issue.
APA TT-100 covers a site built Portal Frame for Engineered applications with walls as narrow as 16".
I don’t get what the 6” is for.
That's one cool looking garage.
agreed
Our builder does brick returns at garage opening. We frame our opening 16'9" and use a 2x12 for garage door track backer, hanging into thr opening 4.5". Brick ends there. Very clean look and no wood on the exterior
Just got done framing our DIY garage. Great tips!! Thank you! 🙏🏻
😅 👌 👍
I'd appreciate some advise on materials to use for soffit. I see the Hardie soffit with the holes in it for ventilation and while this is good, it is very heavy and only comes in one width 24". Is there something else that lets you cut it to 28" so there is no joint? Thanks.
Steve Baczek is one crew cut and one red Sharpie from glory.
made me laugh - thanks for joining in
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Thanks for all the great content. You're not only the architect everyone would want, but the guy we'd all like to have a beer and sip some suds with.
Do you do any online consultation or anything? I am looking to turn my detached garage into a bonus room. I really want the retrofit to be as high efficiency and intelligently designed as possible.
If the 6" of 2x are added later, does that mean they are not tied into the Zip? What is the recommended way to protect those?
Boiled linseed oil will seal the concrete slab
It’s amazing on these new houses they don’t use 6” solid block or concrete and let the drywall go down to within 1” of the floor. Those concrete ledges are so nasty looking. Definitely 1950 mentality. If I built a home and I left a concrete ledge in the garage like that , the homeowners would have me remove it. I see it over and over and it’s not even a code anywhere. Unbelievable.
Of course it is, we need to keep the wood framing +8" from grade - this is a typical detail in most places I work??
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 The concrete plinth seems a sensible detail to me.
This one helped me out thank you
Great details
thanks for joining in
Matt, as a builder yourself. Any idea why housing has gotten so expensive? Especially in places like the northeast
simple greed, labor, materials, permits
There was already a shortage of housing, now that we've let in 3 million people we need more housing...
8' come on man
So if Acq has an issue with cold galvanized nails. How long will those straps work?
I don't think those are attached to P.T. wood in this case.
@@slaveofjesus3878 they are in the top of the CMU, cement block, and the treated is on that.
Top down is double top, 2xstuds, bottom plate, treated sill plate, wall tie, CMU, and foundation. Therefore, the wall tie is under the treated sill in direct contact with the Acq treated lumber and along the side of the Acq.
I did an experiment with Acq, different steel strapping, and fasteners. With minimal dampness it lasted 5 years. Completely dry it lasted 15 years. Stainless, copper has lasted the best so far and then Acq fasteners Is starting to deteriorate where the coating has been removed from the installation process.
Therefore I now draw a WIP around the treated where steel is in contact and solar seal around the threads and over sized holes within the foundation j-bolts vs a sill seal.
How do monoslope roof assemblies vent? I would love to see an explanation on how to properly do that.
I’m guessing it’s likely to be an insulted roof deck, not a vented one.
@@lucasfallert4031 most likely but I would still like to know. I have not seen a good detailed explanation online anywhere.
I was surprized the building was fully open. I would have thought it would have needed an inside wall going across for lateral bracing.
It does have such a wall. if you watch where Steve Baczek walks in from, and look behind him, you can see the rest of the building in background. Great comment.
Appears Steve hasn't learned the esthetic and practical advantages of a gable roof. Just sayin...
I work thru the designs thoroughly with my clients and it is ultimately their aesthetic.....just sayin
While there are a number of advanted to a gable/duopitch roof, the monopitch maximises the area available for maximum solar PV production, and I saw that solar PV was being considered as a future addition to the roof. Presumably this is in case the owners want to run an EV in future.
This week on "how to over build and spend a lot of money"
And I thought it was "This week - dumb comments that waste everyon'es time"
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 nope that's next week
Steve looks at the camera like his daughter is introducing her new boyfriend.
Killer instinct lol - thanks for joining in.........fyi most boyfriends only visited once!
Custom home, should have gone with wider doors, not just 8 footers.
You have to see what the Germans do. I feel if I had my own I would have to park right on the wall on the passenger side to get my butt out of the drivers door. My parking space is bad enough where I live and I have a Toyota CH-R and still have to squeeze out of my door.
@popeshop5863 I say that because it's hard to get a full size truck through an 8' door. So I understand where you are coming from.
@@popeshop5863 These are 9's
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Just being lazy especially if I had a dually with what I call the moose antler trailer side mirrors 😂 loved my grandfathers double-single door. Poor thing suffered during NY winter months. Quite surprised his garage door electronics survived till after he passed away. When I build my garage I would like space between the garage doors and then some, getting too rusty to limbo out of any vehicle.
yup wider and taller. I have taller doors dont have to remove yakima carrier on my lifted SUV when I park in garaage