Compare Bambu Lab Flow Calibration, Auto versus Manual
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- ΠΠΏΡΠ±Π»ΠΈΠΊΠΎΠ²Π°Π½ΠΎ: 12 ΡΠ΅Π½ 2024
- Have you ever compared the flow calibration results on the X1 Carbon? Which method is more accurate?
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You may have a faulty LIDAR unit. I follow Bambu's recommendation of running a machine "calibration" on a regular basis when changing build plates, spools, and what-not. I also run the auto calibration of the filament Flow Dynamics and Flow Rates when putting in a new spool of filament. I started having issues similar to you on Flow Dynamics, Flow rate calibrations were "hit and miss" with system "failed" results, and also LIDAR errors on machine calibration. I contacted Bambu support and provided all the information they requested, and they eventually sent me a new LIDAR unit. After installing, EVERYTHING starting working NICELY.
But slowly, I started having Flow Dynamic issues again, and a random LIDAR error every-now-and-then. I decided to look a bit more closely at the LIDAR unit and the hot end assembly in general. Things I quickly noticed: The screws for the Nozzle and the LIDAR unit had started to work themselves loose ever so slightly.
How I corrected and got things aligned:
1. Remove the hot end nozzle. This gives better access to the LIDAR unit.
2. Loosen the 2 screws for the LIDAR unit, then press up and to the Left, then slowly tighten the 2 screws alternating between them (careful not to over tighten and strip the threads, but get them good and tight).
3. Clean the LIDAR Camera lens. It is easy to clean see and clean the LIDAR camera lens now without the hot end nozzle in the way.
4. Reinstall the hot end nozzle. Just snug up the 2 screws for the hot end nozzle at first. While pushing the nozzle straight up to seat it into the hot end assembly, tighten the 2 screws. Again careful not to over tighten and strip the threads but getting them good and tight.
5. Run a machine calibration when everything is back assembled to it's operational state.
After doing all of this, the printer is printing better than it came out of the box and the Automatic Flow Dynamic is better than what I can detect from the manual method. The automatic Flow Rates are SPOT on when comparing to hollow cube wall tests with a micrometer/caliper. The LIDAR bed leveling is amazingly accurate and my first layers are absolutely PERFECT.
So try my above steps first, and if they don't correct the issue, contact Bambu support about a possible faulty LIDAR unit.
Good tips. I run calibrations all the time. Whenever I change anything or even move the unit, I run a calibration. I will take a look at the mounting of the lidar and see if I get any improvement. ππ
Thank you for this level of detail. I am storing all of your hard work in my memory vault in case I run into the issue. I really appreciate people like you who go above and beyond sharing their experiences and solutions.
I would like to add another detail that I have recently noticed. Use a good quality smooth plate for your calibrations. They come out more accurate IMHO. The smooth plate needs to be in very good condition. Pitted, gouged, scratched plates interfere with the LIDAR readings.
Something else I accidently stumbled onto. I found scrubbing the smooth plate (I only have the PEI cool plate right now) with a "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser" on a regular basis does wonders for extending life and adhesion. Also using the "liquid" glue from Bambu helps in more accurate filament calibrations.
I have recently been having issues with some of my prints.
Particularly top layers and the edges on circle/flat objects.
I was told if you do a manual/ auto calibration on the flow rate and dynamics is to make sure you dry the filament first. Which i did last night and will do the calibration today.
I'd like to see test prints, I just started using orca. I printed a spool in petg, and had some stringing and a few flaws, I manual calibrated in orca and wow, my next spool was beautiful.
In PLA my autocalibrated prints are very good, but haven't done comparisons.
I have just started to use Orca on my P1S printers. Seems to be printing nice. I think I need to do a Temp test on PETG on the X1C.
It would really help to print off some test units like the benchy, maker muse's castle, etc to compare the two flow configurations. Without those you are left guessing what's going on like you did at the end of your video.
You never actually tested 0.032 or near that range in manual mode. Is it possible that there are multiple K values that would work?
Without comparing the test results at 0.032 VS 0.02 it's hard to say which value is best
Also, the line test isn't good, as it relies on correct first layer z height setting and uses slower first layer speeds. It's much more accurate to do the pattern test from Orcraslicer, as it uses speed from regular / higher layers you are normally printing at.