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FUKNG BAMBU STEALING MY FILES!

Do you have the vant adapter (with magnets) available on Printables/Makersworld?

Looks great! What would you charge to produce 3 of these for X1c's?

STL = a mesh of triangles, object with curved surfaces require lots of triangles and file size will be big. STEP = a geometric definition of your object using radius/diameter, tangents, arcs, etc... NO mesh triangles to define curves, so much better quality and smaller file size. 3MF = compressed file containing a mesh of triangles (like the STL) and other data (textures, colors, etc) a STL object saved as 3MF is the same triangle mesh but compressed, so file size is smaller but quality is the same as the original STL. a STEP object saved as 3MF is no more a geometric definition, is a triangle mesh representing the object, the mesh quality and size varies with the program you use to open the STEP and save it to 3MF. File size is bigger and quality is worse than original STEP file.

The video was pretty good, but the comments section is really amazing! If somebody took all the info down here and made another video they would come off sounding like the Albert Einstein of 3d printing.

I bought 2 A1 Minis during the recent sale. Amazing printer for $200.

I know this is old but I do believe the sides are part of the structure to make it rigid

I do like it and thank you for reviewing, but I feel like it’s a bit overpriced at $100 on Amazon right now. I feel like for a plastic box that heats / Drys stuff it should be around 50 bucks?

This option is in the bambu slicer, i followed along in it to get started! thanks for the great walk through.

Thank you man, this video is very useful 👍👏

Excellent work , well done thanks

Thanks for a great video , awesome

I just printed some test prints with PP and im getting poor adhesion on inside walls. Im printing a circular part and just test printed threads with little bit of the main body and the inner walls just peal apart like sheets of paper. Outer 5 walls seem to have good adhesion. Im going to decrease the line width of the inner walls to see if that helps. Might do the outer wall a smidge aswell. But I'm curious if you came across any of that.

Hi, I subscribe to your channel which I really love to watch. I’m having a problem printing two colors with one excluder I have.Ender 3 S1 Pro I’m using orca slicer 2.0 I tried M600 end it doesn’t work I don’t know why I also try pause the print and it still doesn’t work. Any suggestion please please thank you, Eli.

Nice design. Seems like a big oversight on Bambu's part especially considering they're trying to turn a 3D printer into an appliance. I wonder why they thought it would be acceptable to launch poop into a customer's room.

Nice Vid. Thx. Have a nice weekend 🐈🐾🐾

Возможно мне пришла глупая мысль в голову, но что если после печати первого слоя остановить печать и приклеить юбку на обычный скотч к столу, затем продолжить печать? Может быть даже лучше использовать желтый термоскотч:) Сможет ли он решить эту проблему с PP?))

Спасибо за сравнение, я слышал что STEP лучше оптимизирует, но что он может повлиять на качество печати, это неожиданно. Я списывал волны на поверхностях на плохую настройку принтера, теперь надо проверить так ли это если использовать STEP

The advantage to STL files comes in during the design process. The more sculptural and organic the shape you are trying to make the more impractical parametric modeling becomes. This is when you want to go with a sculptural software like Zbrush and/or Carveco.

scarf joint seam(beta) selected None, and i can't change it, can you give me advice?)

So many hugs to you. So many 3D-printer youtubers coming from the old world dont get it. Thanks for this info! I personally give nothing on my phartsmone.... Being able to do this locally is vital for me! Why? Simple: when I see issue with current printjob, it's too late anyway..... you cant save the print. So I dont need to watch it. Nice Info! Thanks again!

I like your design and everything, but like many others, I print in an enclosed space (a room) and value my health at full potential... Filaments produced from oil products, like PLA, not only release nanoparticles during printing, but these are also toxic nanoparticles. There's a reason that Bambu Labs incurred the extra costs of putting in an exhaust fan and a carbon filter... You think a company like them won't cut corners at every turn? Nah.. If theyre putting it in, it needs to be there, and shouldnt be bypassed... Bypassing this exhaust filter system is essentially hazardous to your health.

Did you notice any additional time added to the print with the Scarf?

So I used to print polypropylene on the X1C its was a huge pain it constantly clogged for me but not actually at the nozzle, if you unload your filament you'll notice the extruder gears chew up the polypropylene hard and will gum up the gears. I believe the issue with the enclosure is that the filament softens in the extruder head before it gets in the nozzle I'm not really sure how to combat this. I printed it pretty huge polypropylene vertical water tower but it was a nightmare.

Please do you have STL for x gantry and orher parts? doing same

nice , are you able to share the carriage .stl

You need to work on the audio. otherwise good video!

The last two models I created were 2-3 parts that threaded together. I spent too much time (and filament) trying to get the seams on all the parts to line up. This is pretty cool.

This is very nice ... I always get horrible seems with my 0.8mm setup.

Thanks for the video, good to hear it seems fine with .5 width. I'm mostly printing with 0.5 anyway, so i'll definitely try that out too!

Can feel your pain dude, have had 7 back surgeries. Now fused L2-S1. Best things that I have found to help. Implanted Nerostimulator, stomach management with Miralax, and Belbuca. Belbuca helps to prevent to much dependence on opioids but beware of taking it at night. ALWAYS, rinse mouth after it is absorbed.

Brilliant thankyou!

Thanks for the dope on PP. I like your straightforward style. Subbed!

*Promo sm* 🎊

What screws did you use to put it together?

You set refinement on the STL export to medium so the comparison in terms of print quality is pretty much useless.

What you've made is amazing - I'm surprised this video hasn't got more views and likes than this... well, now you have one like more :) I'm still yet to order a BambuLab printer, as I have a hard time letting go of my delta type printer. But there's no doubt that these newer corexy printers are faster with far less maintenance and odd jobs needed, than my older printer.

I don't know how people use computers without having "hide extensions for known filetypes" turned off.

Hi, thanks for this nice project. Could you link me to where I can download the stl file for P1S (with vents, but without the front hole for led controller). Thanks

I think it's interesting that the 3mf file for the step file was larger but printed faster?

I have recently been having issues with some of my prints. Particularly top layers and the edges on circle/flat objects. I was told if you do a manual/ auto calibration on the flow rate and dynamics is to make sure you dry the filament first. Which i did last night and will do the calibration today.

Since STEP works with surfaces defined by mathematical formulas and the STL with triangles, if you import an STEP on Prusa Slicer, you can use the option to generate curves with G2 and G3 commands (instead of hundreds of straight segments made with G1), which will make the machine print a perfect curve. If you not use G2 or G3, the results will be similar since the slice will transform the curve in segments.

This video was not as informative as I was hoping for. Basically the quality of the printed part depends on the tolerance of the STL export, and tolerance of the gcode calculation. If these tolerances are close to each other, the end result and gcode size and everything else would be more or less the same, but indeed the step files are more accurate to the model.

As a Machinist in the Aerospace sector, for over 30 years, I can tell you right now, STL files are garbage! With Step files, you're getting the absolute raw solid model! Believe me! I dealt with STL files going back 25+ years and they're the stupidest format for the machines that we run at home today! I tested this out several years ago by manually writing proper G-Code for a 3D printer and it works with G2/G3 commands. Finally, Fusion 360 will actually slice a proper solid model modeled in Fusion 360 or a Step file into proper G2/G3 Code and it is less than half the size as an STL sliced model with way nicer, cleaner prints. STL file format is not needed with today's resin and FDM printers. It was designed in 1986 for stereolithography machines. Believe me, I've been around this industry for three decades plus! Bamboo slicer has a feature to print with a Step file and it has some kind of smoothing, possibly using G2/G3 commands for arcs.

I absolutely loather .STL files, for the simple reason that they are a MESS to try and make edits to, and most files uploaded for printing you see are STL. I often make modifications to downloaded files, to fit my needs better, and it adds HOURS of work to my printed works.

Yes, I want a printer as good as any laser printer where I just turn it on and it prints.

people complaining about it just coming down to two different sorts of cad > mesh conversions in the end.. are missing the point so hard. Step file allows you to print however fine resolution you may want, meanwhile a shared STL/3MF is only ever going to be the set resolution from it's creation.

STEP file also makes things easier when applying color... you can make your color in Fusion and then it's easer to set colors instead of filling in with the slicer.

Very interesting video, thank you.