Build a Running Model Airplane Engine From Scratch - Part 5
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2024
- Patreon - / jellyfishmachine
In this video we make some of the last parts for the Weaver, 1cc Glow Ignition Model Airplane Engine, the Cylinder Head and Glow Plug Bushing, Prop Driver and Prop Nut. It's easy cruising from here to the finish line, all of the difficult work is behind us. Once the Carburetor is finished then it will be time to give it a run, then start building an airplane to fly it on!
Follow me on Instagram - / cncjellyfish
Plans available here:
www.adriansmod...
Details of my modifications here:
• Weaver Modification De...
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Do you know how to minimize backlash? I'm running into that problem with my 7"x14"large. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Fantastic skills 😸
Excellente , you sell the plans ?
Thanks. Link to plans is in the description
Do you use aDRO on your lathe? Would I be able to buy one and install it to mine?
No DRO on the lathe, just a carriage stop and zero adjustable handwheels. sherline does sell a DRO to fit on their lathes, and there are lots of options for other machines.
Nice work. I'm always impressed with the capabilities of the small Sherline lathe.
Heya Preso! the Sherlines really are awesome little machines, so long as you remember that they are "little".
one of these days i am going to build an anodizing kit based on your videos - thanks for those!
El torno que usas es manual? Cómo haces roscas en ese torno?
I'm using a sherline manual lathe, there is an accessory threading attatchment for single point threading, and i use normal threading dies whenever possible.
www.sherline.com/product-category/lathes/manually-controlled-lathes/
Two pronged question here: First, we’re you using the Sherline threading kit when you cut the 1/4”-? internal threads? And if so, how much of a pain in the butt is it to set up? I’ve seen a video of setting it up, and it looked pretty involved! I’d love your opinion on the subject!
Yep that's the sherline attatchment. it seems troublesome at first but in reality it's no problem at all to setup, just make sure to cut the thread relief and chamfers before switching over. also - make sure not to turn the handwheel backwards with the tool in the cut, the backlash in the gear train and leadscrew will break the tip of the threader off. I find it's much less stressful to single point on the sherline hand powered than it is on a larger lathe with power, no worries about timing it or catching the thread at the wrong time - the leadscrew is never disengaged.
@@JellyFishMachine Thanks! Although I know it’s not the focus of your channel, I’d love to see some “how to” vids with your various machines as well as the obligatory shop tour deal!
I've been thinking about how i might do some how-to videos, most things seem like they are covered in other videos, maybe some sherline specific stuff, or model engine specific?
for the shop tour - it's a comical mess right now, it would be much too embarrasing!
@@JellyFishMachine If it’s clean, it’s not being used!
Just found your channel recently and I've been watching ALL your videos. Not gonna lie it was because I saw that you were using a Sherline lathe. Very impressed with your lathe skills. Sherline lathes are extremely capable in the right hands! I am curious to know about the bar running through the headstock that you were using in your indexing set-up, which was very clever. What is that bar for? I don't see a hole on the headstock of my lathe so it's something you made? Thanks for sharing all the great build videos!!
Thanks for watching! I'm absolutely thrilled with how good the sherline machines are!
That bar and the hole it's in is the carriage stop, used to stop the z-axis repeatably at a precise location, and they started drilling the hole through the headstock in 2015. I made my own bar, mostly because i needed it right then and had a piece of mystery metal to use, but they have the parts for it here:
www.sherline.com/product/40116-lathe-headstock-hard-stop-kit/#description
and if you call them they will drill the hole through the headstock for you, i'm not sure how much it costs though.
the spring for the indexing arrangement is a part i made up from music wire. if you make one, the tip of the spring is pointed like a screwdriver to fit into the gear on the spindle, and the angles need to be adjusted so that it will hold firm in one direction and cam out in the other. there's no particular dimensions to hold to, it's just a matter of trial and error. The spring is simply bolted to the end of the carriage stop bar.
one more thing to note - this indexing setup is neither rigid nor precise, and therefore is not suitable for anything such as engraving handwheels or cutting gears. those are jobs for a rotary table or indexing plate.
@@JellyFishMachine Thank you so much for the VERY detailed reply! I am an idiot...I looked closer at the headstock and I do indeed have the hole drilled! Can't believe I didn't notice it! I've done single point turning plenty so it's not like I didn't have a chance to see it🤣 any way... This will be easier than setting up a dial indicator! Thanks for link! I find their website to be my only complaint, hard to find specific items at times. Keep up the great work!
I would guess 5-10% nitro with 20% castor. The 1/4-32 taps are available from Ace. LHS should have them or Tower Hobbies. AMA safety nut is a nice touch. Sherline's are very capable in the right hands, especially for small work. This is exactly the kind of work that Joe Martin had in mind when he owned the company. Nice clean work.
15-25% makes the needle a lot less finicky on the little engines. It allows you to richen the mixture slightly before launch so that it does't end up too lean as the tank runs down, yet still makes enough power to fly when you chuck it !
It's coming along nicely , as a suggestion for an airframe how about the old Kiel kraft Ladybird either free flight or micro rc ?
Thanks! I'll be building an airplane called the "Diamond Demon", it's a 50" free flight design from the 30's
Your videos on this engine build are a great inspiration to do something special with our machines. Great looking engine. But it's also got a vintage look to it. So I'm thinking that one of the old "gassie" free flight models built either for FF or RC but with that very nice built up look and the light showing through the covering. Choices are up to you but something native to your own country, wherever you are, would be nice.
Thanks, get out there and make some cool stuff! i'll be building an airplane called the "Diamond Demon", a free flight design from the 30's, and i'll be using a covering technique with covering film underneath tissue, so it will certainly have that old timey look!
@@JellyFishMachine That's pretty much a perfect choice. Great design that is not seen out there nearly enough.
Very nice. The prop driver is my favourite part. I make the serrations with a straight knurl tool and they come out in a swirl pattern like an O.S.
I expect knurling might be a bit cruel on the little Sherline though.
Thanks! A straight knurl would be the easy way - if i had a knurling tool!
Gj
Fancy thumbnails ;)