Here are the codes I forgot to place on screen: -2A87 Exhaust VANOS, mechanism -2A82 Inlet-Vanos variable cam control test -3100 Boost-pressure control, deactivation -2A9A Cam sensor, inlet signal invalid for synchronization -2A98 (P0016) Crankshaft intake correlation value outside ref range -2A9B exhaust camshaft sensor signal invalid for synchronization -2A99 (P0017) Crankshaft position sensor and exhaust camshaft, correlation - value outside reference range
YOU JUST MADE MY DAY. literally been misfiring for a year and a half, upgraded to index 12 injectors, coils and spark plugs three times, and i was still misfiring. watched this video last night and did it today and she runs beautifully! appreciate it man!
john wang i’ve looked up the codes multiple times lmao never heard of doing this job on any forums or anything , this is the first time i’ve heard of vanos solenoids fixing the issue.
DUDE! Just after watching your video randomly, my father called me and told me that his e93 went on limp mode. He went to the dealership and guess what?! Faulty vanos solenoids! Thanks man!😁
I cleaned my vanos solenoids following your steps and even swapped out the cover with one from Europower Motorsports. My BMW runs like a dream now, no more misfires or limp mode. Thanks for the awesome DIY guide!
I was quoted $3000 with labor to replace my entire vanos system at southwest bimmers of las vegas. I refused service and did some research. Come to find out some brake cleaner was all i needed to pull it out of limp mode. You made my entire week bro, Thank you.
Before replacing the solenoids always worth checking the two filters located to the left of the solenoids (under the exhaust pipe of cylinder one. These are only accessabile from the right wherl hub by taking the wheel off and the coverplate. Need a torque driver and patience as pretty hard to get too. Mine were nearly all blocked so will check them again before next oil change. Good luck
I would recommend connecting the solenoid to a 9v battery for 2 reasons: 1. You can test if you need to buy a new one if nothing happens when power is connected. 2. You won’t be able to clean out the inside of the solenoid completely without connecting it to power because the parts inside move. You should keep disconnecting and reconnecting to power so that way you can move the inside of the solenoid around and do a much better job of cleaning out its internals. As you clean it out, you should see the solenoid begin to move easier and easier until you are satisfied with its performance and can stop cleaning. Edit: I would also recommend buying new gaskets for the solenoids, they’re not too expensive and you don’t want oil leaking near your belt.
vlasfarg would you recommend buying the solenoids instead? I keep getting cylinder 6 misfire and I was considering cleaning the solenoids until I reached your comment.
Miguel D I’d say try cleaning both of them first with the method I listed before you go out and spend close to $300 for the two new ones. Worse case scenario they can’t be saved and you need to buy new ones anyways.
Although those 2 connectors appear to be the same, they are in fact different colored coded wires, DO NOT plug them back in reverse order. They both have same connector type but have different color wires, if you connect them in the wrong slot your engine will run like crap. Take note of placement upon disconnecting. Great vid as usual. Thumbs up.
I've had misfiring for the last 5 years, and no one has been able to diagnose it. Had turbos and injectors replaced under warranty. 2 sets of coils and plugs. Found this video, pulled the vanos, and cleaned, and after warming up the car, made 3 hard pulls. No misfires! No codes! I have JB4 BTW. Thank you so much for making this video! Should the issue return, I will replace vanos myself, because now I'm a pro!
@@JesusIsLordLasVegasim having issues with my 2003 BMW i had it for a long time but she still runs good .The car is starting to overheat should i just let her go😢
@@trina-zb5wrI've been a mechanic for 30 years and my buddy bodies BMW over few months ago he told me the same thing generally you should get rid of BMWs there are a lot of money to take care of this always something going wrong with them nobody like the work on them too expensive to fix but his was overheating I took the upper radiator hose off and actually dumped coolant into the upper hose while it was attached to the radiator still but off on the other end because it was full of are you may want to have somebody try that if you have not resolved this problem yet
Thanks so much dude, was totally getting misfires, changed everything and still was throwing them. Tried this trick and drove the hardest I ever have and it was smoother than ever.
Bought a beautiful e92 335i off copart and fixed her up nicely, but was having shaky start ups, hesitation after throttle and the whole works... was almost ready to just sell the car and grab my profit from it, until i tried this man. you’re an absolute life saver, been watching your videos for a while now and they’re worth every minute! best bimmer guy on youtube bro keep it up
Yes and on a E90 328i these are so easy to get to. I was reading you can clean and swap them. Some have speculated they fail by getting stuck from performing the same operation while cleaning and swapping them allows a slightly different movement effectively freeing them up. For installation you actually want to carefully lay the new or old o-ring into the spot where it tends to stay when removing the solenoid. There is a little shoulder for the o-ring to sit on (stage the o-ring) after staging it in this manner the new or cleaned solenoid will easily slide in flush. Being that I've seen people struggle to press the entire o-ring in with the assembly when installing. It is very difficult to compress the entire o-ring like that.
I can confirm this works, a shop wanted $600 to do this job and they said they were only going to replace one and clean the other, so if they replaced both with brand new ones it could’ve been more like $750. I said to the guy who works there “that’s a little expensive isn’t it? Especially since you don’t really need to take anything apart to get to the solenoids and they’re only held in by a couple bolts.” He gave me a bunch of excuses like “well it’s an expensive car, blah, blah, blah...” I told him that’s okay I’ll fix it myself since he wouldn’t budge on price. Since I declined their service they charged me $250 for an oil change and diagnosis! I bought one solenoid and cleaned the other one out for under $200 and have had no more issues after about 8 months. Will never go back to Bridgewater motorworks in Bridgewater, Ma. Bunch of scumbags who think they can charge dealership prices for simple jobs.
Im a DIY guy but I do know one thing, mechanics do not charge you for what you think the price is, they charge you for what you dont know and what they know.
Maaaaaaaaan, You have no idea how happy you just made uh brotha... My car has been hesitating like crazy under heavy acceleration; so much to the point I actually took it to a local shop to see if they could tell me what was wrong. Coil packs and plugs have been changed recently. (they didn't know to tell me) I think you just solved the issue!!!! Much appreciation to you! Keep the videos coming!
@@KurumaDesigns No codes, no check engine light, no limp mode. Just hesitation under heavy acceleration, poor gas mileage and a few idle hiccups. Right now I'm using Carly to check for codes, planning to switch over to Inpa. So I'm guessing the vanos may be in the early stages of failure. 🤷🏽♂️ Got any ideas?
I have a 2009 335i coupe. Have changed my oil every 5-7k miles up to 143k now. Never had any of those codes pop up or any related to the vanos solenoids. Just keep that oil clean and they will take care of you!
There is also a vanos filters on the passenger side not sure how many people cleaned it or replaced it before. Just did mine today car idle super clean!
Hey Christian, its just neighbor here in Kissimmee, did this exact cleaning back in February, except on my n52..Pain in the butt putting them back in with the tight space , but worth cleaning them. Was told to replace them once they go past 100k miles instead of cleaning them but I had already cleaned them and put back in.. My e90 328i has 144k, I cleaned them with mass air flow censor cleaner though..did run a bit smoother, so its definitely worth while as maintenance! Enjoyed the video!
I have a 2009 Mini. Replaced these twice myself. Thank God for guys like you that put this info out there for us home mechanics. I was going to replace the timing chain on my Mini. I was lucky I saw a video a few years ago that said to check these Vanos first.
On the o-rings, I would have at least put a little oil on them just to clean them and condition them and make sure they seat properly. Also good to do if you do replace them, just like the oil filter gasket.
Thumbs this up to help follow BMW owners out Tips: -If you're trying to diagnose just 1 solenoid (ex intake vanos codes are present) remove them, clean them, and swap their positions. They are the same part number and can go into either intake or exhaust side. If you swap them, and no codes return, problem solved the cleaning work. If you swap them, and the code then moves to the exhaust side, you know that solenoid is probably needing replaced -If both solenoids are replaced and you are still getting the codes, it could be an indication your cam ledge bearings need replaced. This is most commonly due to poor oil service maintenance -Sometimes the solenoids ARE A PAIN IN THE ASS to remove. Many YT videos I've seen them just simply pull out. Me personally I've had to take a flat head and try to pry them out -Don't cheap out on these parts. Just buy the BMW OEM one. I've tried the Gates ones before and they survived for a bit, but after a while the codes came back. Spared no expense replaced with an OEM BMW part and no problems. I dont know, these engines are so electrical sensor sensitive sometimes you just got to run the OEM part -The O Ring can make them a pain in the ass to install. Make sure to put a bit of oil around the O ring. I personally had to take a little rubber mallet and tap the solenoid back in to get the O ring to seat properly
Before you change these, check the female input on the connector. The pins (male) on the solenoid is very thin. The female connections can spread with time making faulty connection. I changed mine with oem parts and still had the same issue. I took a pick tool and tightened the female connection. Issue immediately went away.
It would have been nice of you to mention the non return valves on the side of the head. If the VANOS solenoid are dirty, the non return valves are definitely dirty too as they serve as the filter for the VANOS system. They too simply need to be cleaned although they are so cheap I usually replace them
Love this video ! I'm a newb in diy and recently learned to change my cord packs and plugs after misfires were costing me hundreds at the shop. You may have saved me another 300 plus diag and labor down the road! When it happens I'm making a donation to this channel
@@HorsepowerHouse its a mispelling of the word coil added by my cell phone. So glad you took the time to be an asshole. I indicated in the same comment that i have no experience and am trying to learn. But you know all and troll the comments while rubbin one out. Good times for you i guess. Have the day you deserve... dickhead
Nice video! Quick tip, if you're getting a code for one solenoid, swap their location on purpose and see if the code travels. If it does, replace the bad one.
I love how he says, "The weather isn't the best for data logging...." then turns traction control off and runs his car up to 110mph with wet streets -- BRILLIANT!!
Nice video dude I literally have to do this every day since I work on BMW's (I've got the small hands) just wanted to let you know that there's two filters on the exhaust side of the cylinder head to the front opposite the coolant reservoir for the vanos solenoids it's a t40 torx head screw those should also be cleaned.
More tips: good idea to lube the seals with o’ring silicon grease or engine oil before putting them back on, good advise replacing the solenoids at 100K miles, be extremely careful not to swap the electrical connectors, the engine will get crazy, my advise is to remove, clean and reinstall them one at the time. With the engine off the base settings of the camshafts is as follow: intake camshaft retarded and exhaust camshaft advanced, this is also the safe position in case of electronic control failure. When the engine is started, the camshafts remain in this position until the ECM detects the position of the camshafts from the sensors (50 rpm’s or 2-5 seconds) the ECM makes an initial timing based on oil temp, oil pressure and rpm, the solenoids are a very important part of the engine controls.
Cleaned both Cam position Sensor, cleaned, fixed all my problems. Which is the is what I thought you were doing. Never finish watching the video but thanks.
Love the BMW secret feature videos and this one too. I have a 7 serieswith 110K miles and have experienced a few miss fires. I certainly will try your tip.
My car it's 335is, feel a strong sound and slow acceleration, and the engine may feel tired. I watched your video 🎥 right a few days ago and was thinking to do it. The results are impressive 👏 I can't believe what I'm see the different it's amazing 😍 I swear to God, man thank you so much 🙏
Thanks for the fix. Repair shops are very very upset with RUclips. They can no longer over charge to change something and end up changing nothing handing back your car with no job done.
Thanks for the video bro, I bought my 2008 E92 335i because of you, couldn’t be happier! And everything I needed to fix/replace was on your chanel, thanks :)
You the Man!!!.. too bad I didn't see this Video before I replaced my Plugs and Coils.. But what the Heck it has over 200K and the plugs needed replacing. Now i have this Same exact Symptom, I'll try it out and hope it works... Love your Videos... I pretty much do all my Mechanical on my cars... This is my 1st BMW...
After the Vanos are cleaned and the problem still hasn't go away, you should also clean the Vanos filter located on the lower right side of the engine.
That radiator fan is just t2o screws away from being removed and it just pops out, after you unclip its wiring, again a simple clip and it comes off. Makes a whole lot of room to do the job without injuries to your knuckles etc. Nice one lad.
Did this with my BMW 3 series it was running in limp constantly and lost power at the top I personally chose the more expensive option of replacing them (partially since the car was at 200k km) and it really fixed the problem.
Apparently it is best to clean these AND the VANOS check valve/microfilters, which are on the exhaust side of the head, together. It is best to soak them rather than just spray them and give them a good shake and resoak as necessary until the inner piston can be heard to rattle up/down freely when shaken. I've got the dreaded 002A87 code and the car is running like crap especially at lower revs. I expect to have to replace them at some point as the cars has now done 120k which is reasonable for the original parts, but hopefully this will work and get the old ones to last a couple more months while I save up for a pair of new OEM ones!
@@fidelcarrillo2126 my 2002 318i N42 engine ran absolutely beautiful for about 18 months, it was immaculate, one owner low mileage time warp, it was stunning. Didn't use it much. Went out one day, running superb, I overtook a lorry and took it up to about 3.5k revs, pulled back in and it started to run slightly rough. Tickover fluctuating, hesitation, slight miss fire once only after start up. On advice from the BMW "specialist" I changed the cam sensors on both cams, no change, I changed the rocker box gasket because they dry up and leak air, no change, I struggled all day to change the brake pump o ring on the back of the head for the same reason, no change, I changed vanos o rings for the same reason, no change. I then had another mobile bmw "specialist" come to take a reading, post cat oxygen sensor was at fault, changed it, no change, I then took it too another BMW "specialist" who said the valvetronic had "worn", my retorte was " what in 200 yards? Running perfect, overtook a lorry then it started to run bad, so your telling me a mechanical system" wore" out in 200 yards? " once he had stopped squirming and going red he asked me to leave it with him. Two days later he said he had adjusted the valvetronic motor clearance 0.4mm and it" was a lot better". It was acceptable but not perfect, put with this the struggle I had changing the aircon hedgehog and the alternator and auxiliary belt tensioner and idler I sold it to some chav family who subsequently wrapped it round a lamp post some 6 months later and writ it off. I was put off by BMW but about 4 years later bought a two owner 2006 44k 320d, absolutely mint, se model, I then read about the swirl flap problem even though mine were the much improved plastic versions not like the e46 and how they can blow the engine up "if they fall into the engine". due to the corona virus lock down, the decision I don't like driving around in a time bomb and I only did 200 miles in it in ten months I flogged that as well. I read about the petrol engines on my year and problems with cylinder walls crumbling, one with the timing chain facing towards the rear of the car which believe it or not has chain problems so it's gearbox out to fix it and I've made a vow never to buy these pieces of overpriced bits of junk EVER again, add to this the clowns who claim to be specialists who can't fix them. I've still got my e30 I've had for 25 years (last ten years just sat in the garage) it never gave me any trouble. BMW? = big money waster
Not too familiar with BMWs, but I know that in general, cleaning solenoids or sensors only helps for a little while. They will go bad eventually, so you'd definitely want to be in the mindset that you will be replacing the solenoids eventually. This was a great and informative video though! Looking to pick up a 2011-2013 335i M-Sport in the near future. They're just super hard to find in the spec I want :/ Edit: when reinstalling o-rings, you want to use an o-ring lube, so that it slides in smoothly and doesn't crack or get pin holes when you put it back in.
I would recommend if you replace the o-ring or reuse them,is to lightly lube the o-rings before installing part to eliminate the possibility of rolling the o-ring, friction.
100% agree that his job would have been lots easier by pulling the fan! Learning how quick and easy it is will take a lot of the burden off doing any of the jobs needed on the front as the n54 ages; for instance replacing the mickemouse fitting and any hoses that cross the front; the serpentine belt and idler pulleys; radiator; intercooler; etc.
I want to add that while spraying brake cleaner through them will clean sufficiently I recommend bathing it in brake cleaner and trigger it using 12v repeatedly. This way any residue inside the solenoid will creep out as well and it's in almost factory condition afterwards. Also it is always recommended to replace both the gaskets - you won't want to disassemble this again in a few months due to a leaky seal, right? ;)
Cleaning is a band-aid. I can’t tell you how many time I have cleaned them for the issue to come back. This will help you save a little to get them and replace them.
I cleaned mine today car was running perfectly fine then half check engine light came, car still runs perfectly fine and idles fine no misfires. Should I go ahead and replace them? Would a full oil change help as well, cars 06 3 series 130k kms
I have no vanos codes. But idle quality it's off a bit. I was reading the vanos performance in inpa. Intake solenoid couldn't keep it steady. So I might have to clean it and see. Thanks !
Theirs only gonna be a bmw enthusiast that hates on this and says just replace them but us youngins who dont have a lot of money can appreciate this, thanks!!
I went to a shop and they said they were gonna charge $600 to clean one and replace the other one with a new one. I bought one new solenoid and changed that one and cleaned out the other one myself and haven’t had any issues after 8 months. Costed me under $200 and was very easy to do.
Hey Christian! More great content. What no Blinker fluid? :D Another tip for you is that you can remove the fan assembly for a lot more room. Just a thought.
what if my car only misfires during idle? it starts up with some misfires before sometimes vibrating aggresively with engine light blinking but when I turn it off and on it's fine again and has no fault codes at all, drives smooth with 0 misfires too. what's the issue?
I have the same problem. Morning start are shitty and when I start it again it little bit less shaky. When I drive everything is fine. This means it’s not your bogie’s or injection or bobine. I think cleaning your Vanos can be the cure. I am gonna do this upcoming weekend
@@DeOnbekendeHier mine was a faulty coil connector. car died on me on a trip 200km away from my country lol. used a flathead and messed around with one of the connector pins and it plugged back nicely. before it was very tight and wouldn't go in nicely
jus got ah 335i and tried to da some pulls when all a sudden i get a engine light. thank you for dis video i will make sure to clean them and see if everythin runs good ! preciate it bro
I used an ultrasonic cleaner w/ vinegar and distilled water.... Also helps to apply voltage to both terminals a few times to get it moving.... they fail open like thermostats
Your site is a great help to many, I'm sure, I think for all your time and trouble, you should set up a patron connection. Are seem to know these cars inside out? Are you BMW trained?
Another side note when doing this also clean the one way valves they're located near the tensioner bolt They're t40 i believe and pull them out ...taking the passenger tire and the inner fender plastic out will give you better access but take them out and clean them off to where you can see through the screen filter. Also check your oil filter to make sure it's not broken or damaged these things along with vanos throw vanos codes.
Fun fact: today when I popped the hood on my N55 my coolant reservoir cap was sitting 3 feet away from the reservoir and on the alternator. No idea how it got there.
Also, check to make sure your oil filter cage inside the oil filter housing is present. Mine was not on purchase. Went 2 years with vanos issues only to find out i had no vanos issues. There are also 2 razor filters on the exhaust side of the block near the manifold that should be cleaned every once in a while
Hate those vanus selenoids Also i hate the essentric shaft sensor, the oil filter housing gasket, all the water hoses, those bosch coils, the weak control arms and bushings that cannot handle nyc. Other then that i miss my e90.
You can test them too and I suggest you test them first. Get yourself a 2 pieces of wire or a power probe. You are going to apply power directly to the terminals on the solenoid and listen and feel for the click which is the solenoid opening and closing. Just connect power probe to battery and connect the ground to one terminal on the solenoid and the probe on the other terminal and apply power with the switch on the power probe or if you are using 2 pieces of wire same thing, connect one wire to + on battery and one wire on - on battery and touch other end of wires to each terminal on solenoid. The solenoid if working properly will open and close instantly and is very audible and you should be able to see inside the oil ports on the solenoid that it is opening and closing. You can also feel it. Cleaning them usually doesn’t work. Usually once they go bad they are bad. The phasers that these control also fail so if the solenoid doesn’t fix it it may be time for a labor intensive and costly replacement of your vct phasers and timing chain, guide and tensioners.
Nice vid appreciated. I do them just as VVT solenoids. I use alligator clips and attach both ground ( - )clips to the solenoid.Polarity doesn’t matter in this case. I just clip on both negative’s from a 12v battery to the solenoid. And clip to the solenoid + positive side and tap the clip to the battery + side. This allows you to open and and close the solenoid as u are spraying thus allowing a more thorough cleaning
I bought a pair of Chinese ones $40 for the set on Amazon a year ago... Been running great ever since. I think the dirty OEM's are still sitting in the garage.
ASE requires that you disable the rad fan it can come on and chop your fingers. VANOS The infinitely variable double VANOS system is still in use on all NG6 engines. The system still retains the use of the lightweight VANOS units from the N52. The only change to the system is that the N54 uses different spread ranges as compared to the other engines (N52, N52KP and N51). As with the previous systems, the VANOS units should not be mixed up as the spread ranges for the intake and exhaust are different and engine damage could result.
Let me just say that this is not just for BMWs. After I did this on my car my son's car what does a Chevy have the brake vacuum pump that's on the side of the engine brake. Of course it broke so bad that we had to remove the valve cover and pick out all the metal. I saw the solenoids as he was removing the valve cover. When he went inside I grabbed a socket. He had two of them and I removed both. He had no idea what they were and I explained to him what they were and that they could be serviced. When the pump broke at 50,000 MI the o-rings on the Vanos were in perfect shape. They definitely needed to be cleaned. In his car it's extremely easy to get to them. So now every other oil change he pulls them out and makes sure they're clean. I went online and was able to find a 50 pack of the o-rings. So now whenever he pulls them out he just throws new o-rings on them just to be on the safe side. I really do appreciate you taking your time and showing all this. Of course when I watch this video a couple years ago I must definitely hit the like and subscribe. I watched a lot of your different videos and I enjoyed those also. Again thank you for your knowledge on this problem and how to fix it for little to no money.
Would you only recommend doing this if youre engine light is on and getting a misfire code? Can you have misfires and the eng light is not on? Sorry if its a dumb question. Novice here trying to learn all i can.
My son owns a Bmw 3 series and damn this cars look so nice but when it comes to do some jobs you cant even put your hand in it 🤟🏽🤟🏽 thanks man doing that for my sons car
Here are the codes I forgot to place on screen:
-2A87 Exhaust VANOS, mechanism
-2A82 Inlet-Vanos variable cam control test
-3100 Boost-pressure control, deactivation
-2A9A Cam sensor, inlet signal invalid for synchronization
-2A98 (P0016) Crankshaft intake correlation value outside ref range
-2A9B exhaust camshaft sensor signal invalid for synchronization
-2A99 (P0017) Crankshaft position sensor and exhaust camshaft, correlation - value outside
reference range
Thanks! The best channel for N54 owners
I just cleaned my vanos The same way about a month ago and my e93 has been running perfect since
Would this apply to the P0139 - O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 2)?
I need to clean mine. The previous owner wasn’t that good with maintenance. Thank you brother.
Bro I’m gettin 3100 & 2a9e, 2aa0 replace both sensors. Still have code right after me changing valve cover
YOU JUST MADE MY DAY. literally been misfiring for a year and a half, upgraded to index 12 injectors, coils and spark plugs three times, and i was still misfiring. watched this video last night and did it today and she runs beautifully! appreciate it man!
Right on! 💪🏼
but you should have known from the codes you got
john wang i’ve looked up the codes multiple times lmao never heard of doing this job on any forums or anything , this is the first time i’ve heard of vanos solenoids fixing the issue.
Did you have same codes?
@@denisbilenko9109 bro the car sometimes missfires but gives no codes when it just shows first signs
DUDE! Just after watching your video randomly, my father called me and told me that his e93 went on limp mode. He went to the dealership and guess what?! Faulty vanos solenoids! Thanks man!😁
I cleaned my vanos solenoids following your steps and even swapped out the cover with one from Europower Motorsports. My BMW runs like a dream now, no more misfires or limp mode. Thanks for the awesome DIY guide!
I was quoted $3000 with labor to replace my entire vanos system at southwest bimmers of las vegas. I refused service and did some research. Come to find out some brake cleaner was all i needed to pull it out of limp mode. You made my entire week bro, Thank you.
The level of detail he leaves for us is like no other youtuber
He definitely is... ✊🏿
That’s why I love his channel. Even though I have an e46 some things apply too!
Do you know any website where I can buy OEM seat covers for bmw?thanks
Dariel Morales Ecstuning.com
@@SHADOWx472 thanks I will try that one
I love people like you. Helping others without asking for anything. Thanks!
Before replacing the solenoids always worth checking the two filters located to the left of the solenoids (under the exhaust pipe of cylinder one. These are only accessabile from the right wherl hub by taking the wheel off and the coverplate. Need a torque driver and patience as pretty hard to get too. Mine were nearly all blocked so will check them again before next oil change. Good luck
I would recommend connecting the solenoid to a 9v battery for 2 reasons: 1. You can test if you need to buy a new one if nothing happens when power is connected. 2. You won’t be able to clean out the inside of the solenoid completely without connecting it to power because the parts inside move. You should keep disconnecting and reconnecting to power so that way you can move the inside of the solenoid around and do a much better job of cleaning out its internals. As you clean it out, you should see the solenoid begin to move easier and easier until you are satisfied with its performance and can stop cleaning. Edit: I would also recommend buying new gaskets for the solenoids, they’re not too expensive and you don’t want oil leaking near your belt.
@brad peterson Who are you talking about ?
@@zainkhokhar5949 I believe he talks about the video author.
Applying 9v incorrectly can damage the solenoid.
vlasfarg would you recommend buying the solenoids instead? I keep getting cylinder 6 misfire and I was considering cleaning the solenoids until I reached your comment.
Miguel D I’d say try cleaning both of them first with the method I listed before you go out and spend close to $300 for the two new ones. Worse case scenario they can’t be saved and you need to buy new ones anyways.
Although those 2 connectors appear to be the same, they are in fact different colored coded wires, DO NOT plug them back in reverse order. They both have same connector type but have different color wires, if you connect them in the wrong slot your engine will run like crap. Take note of placement upon disconnecting. Great vid as usual. Thumbs up.
Also the plastic end of the connectors is different. Think of it this way. Straight connector is Intake and the 90 degree angle connector is exhaust
I plugged them in reversed and yeah ran like shit! Glad I saw this!
The sensors can be swapped all you want. What you don't want to do is swap the connector with them...
I've had misfiring for the last 5 years, and no one has been able to diagnose it. Had turbos and injectors replaced under warranty. 2 sets of coils and plugs.
Found this video, pulled the vanos, and cleaned, and after warming up the car, made 3 hard pulls. No misfires! No codes!
I have JB4 BTW. Thank you so much for making this video!
Should the issue return, I will replace vanos myself, because now I'm a pro!
How's it been running since?
@@JesusIsLordLasVegasim having issues with my 2003 BMW i had it for a long time but she still runs good .The car is starting to overheat should i just let her go😢
@@trina-zb5wrI've been a mechanic for 30 years and my buddy bodies BMW over few months ago he told me the same thing generally you should get rid of BMWs there are a lot of money to take care of this always something going wrong with them nobody like the work on them too expensive to fix but his was overheating I took the upper radiator hose off and actually dumped coolant into the upper hose while it was attached to the radiator still but off on the other end because it was full of are you may want to have somebody try that if you have not resolved this problem yet
@@trina-zb5wralso make sure that the cooling fans are working properly if you turn the AC on the cooling fans must come on in general
@@trina-zb5wrno don’t let it go!
Thanks so much dude, was totally getting misfires, changed everything and still was throwing them. Tried this trick and drove the hardest I ever have and it was smoother than ever.
Bought a beautiful e92 335i off copart and fixed her up nicely, but was having shaky start ups, hesitation after throttle and the whole works... was almost ready to just sell the car and grab my profit from it, until i tried this man. you’re an absolute life saver, been watching your videos for a while now and they’re worth every minute! best bimmer guy on youtube bro keep it up
This comment brought a smile to my face. Glad I could help man!
Yes and on a E90 328i these are so easy to get to. I was reading you can clean and swap them. Some have speculated they fail by getting stuck from performing the same operation while cleaning and swapping them allows a slightly different movement effectively freeing them up. For installation you actually want to carefully lay the new or old o-ring into the spot where it tends to stay when removing the solenoid. There is a little shoulder for the o-ring to sit on (stage the o-ring) after staging it in this manner the new or cleaned solenoid will easily slide in flush. Being that I've seen people struggle to press the entire o-ring in with the assembly when installing. It is very difficult to compress the entire o-ring like that.
I can confirm this works, a shop wanted $600 to do this job and they said they were only going to replace one and clean the other, so if they replaced both with brand new ones it could’ve been more like $750. I said to the guy who works there “that’s a little expensive isn’t it? Especially since you don’t really need to take anything apart to get to the solenoids and they’re only held in by a couple bolts.” He gave me a bunch of excuses like “well it’s an expensive car, blah, blah, blah...” I told him that’s okay I’ll fix it myself since he wouldn’t budge on price. Since I declined their service they charged me $250 for an oil change and diagnosis! I bought one solenoid and cleaned the other one out for under $200 and have had no more issues after about 8 months. Will never go back to Bridgewater motorworks in Bridgewater, Ma. Bunch of scumbags who think they can charge dealership prices for simple jobs.
Im a DIY guy but I do know one thing, mechanics do not charge you for what you think the price is, they charge you for what you dont know and what they know.
@@laylow96 you get your money 💰 for you a lot
That’s crazy ‼️
All mechanics are scumbags, Mechanic isnt not a mechanic, it's a business.
I’m from ma too this is good to know about that shop
Maaaaaaaaan, You have no idea how happy you just made uh brotha... My car has been hesitating like crazy under heavy acceleration; so much to the point I actually took it to a local shop to see if they could tell me what was wrong. Coil packs and plugs have been changed recently. (they didn't know to tell me) I think you just solved the issue!!!! Much appreciation to you! Keep the videos coming!
Comments like these keep me going. Wishing you the best man 👊🏼
No codes chavez?
@@KurumaDesigns No codes, no check engine light, no limp mode. Just hesitation under heavy acceleration, poor gas mileage and a few idle hiccups. Right now I'm using Carly to check for codes, planning to switch over to Inpa. So I'm guessing the vanos may be in the early stages of failure. 🤷🏽♂️ Got any ideas?
Dude. I just did this and it fixed my misfires on 2 and 3, INSANE. THANK YOU!
I have a 2009 335i coupe. Have changed my oil every 5-7k miles up to 143k now. Never had any of those codes pop up or any related to the vanos solenoids. Just keep that oil clean and they will take care of you!
Omg I was about to change my plugs and ignition coils, accidentally touched this video, it worked like a charm!!! Thank you
There is also a vanos filters on the passenger side not sure how many people cleaned it or replaced it before. Just did mine today car idle super clean!
Hi..where are filters exactly..
Hey Christian, its just neighbor here in Kissimmee, did this exact cleaning back in February, except on my n52..Pain in the butt putting them back in with the tight space , but worth cleaning them. Was told to replace them once they go past 100k miles instead of cleaning them but I had already cleaned them and put back in.. My e90 328i has 144k, I cleaned them with mass air flow censor cleaner though..did run a bit smoother, so its definitely worth while as maintenance! Enjoyed the video!
Awesome man!
I have a 2009 Mini. Replaced these twice myself. Thank God for guys like you that put this info out there for us home mechanics. I was going to replace the timing chain on my Mini. I was lucky I saw a video a few years ago that said to check these Vanos first.
Yep mini cooper's do the same thing. And it's a quick fix.
On the o-rings, I would have at least put a little oil on them just to clean them and condition them and make sure they seat properly. Also good to do if you do replace them, just like the oil filter gasket.
Thumbs this up to help follow BMW owners out
Tips:
-If you're trying to diagnose just 1 solenoid (ex intake vanos codes are present) remove them, clean them, and swap their positions. They are the same part number and can go into either intake or exhaust side. If you swap them, and no codes return, problem solved the cleaning work. If you swap them, and the code then moves to the exhaust side, you know that solenoid is probably needing replaced
-If both solenoids are replaced and you are still getting the codes, it could be an indication your cam ledge bearings need replaced. This is most commonly due to poor oil service maintenance
-Sometimes the solenoids ARE A PAIN IN THE ASS to remove. Many YT videos I've seen them just simply pull out. Me personally I've had to take a flat head and try to pry them out
-Don't cheap out on these parts. Just buy the BMW OEM one. I've tried the Gates ones before and they survived for a bit, but after a while the codes came back. Spared no expense replaced with an OEM BMW part and no problems. I dont know, these engines are so electrical sensor sensitive sometimes you just got to run the OEM part
-The O Ring can make them a pain in the ass to install. Make sure to put a bit of oil around the O ring. I personally had to take a little rubber mallet and tap the solenoid back in to get the O ring to seat properly
I just bought a 328i with the same issue. As soon as I'm home from tour, I'm going to try this. Thanks a lot for this video.
Did it work?
Cleaning buys you time only! Replacement is the true fix for longer term resolution.
Cleaned these and wow what a difference,was having a rough cold start and random misfire/limp modes, all gone, quick easy fix, thanks bro
👊🏼
Having the hardest time putting the bottom solenoid back in. I tried lubing it with oil. Turning and pushing it in. No dice
@@fredericarmerding7881 try silicon grease on the side and exposed front of the O ring
@@fredericarmerding7881 did you ever (after a year!) get the 2nd one in? What did it take?
@@atlantajunglepythons1744 we’re you having problems too? What was it
Before you change these, check the female input on the connector. The pins (male) on the solenoid is very thin. The female connections can spread with time making faulty connection. I changed mine with oem parts and still had the same issue. I took a pick tool and tightened the female connection. Issue immediately went away.
Typical females.
It would have been nice of you to mention the non return valves on the side of the head.
If the VANOS solenoid are dirty, the non return valves are definitely dirty too as they serve as the filter for the VANOS system.
They too simply need to be cleaned although they are so cheap I usually replace them
Love this video ! I'm a newb in diy and recently learned to change my cord packs and plugs after misfires were costing me hundreds at the shop. You may have saved me another 300 plus diag and labor down the road! When it happens I'm making a donation to this channel
What's a Cord Pack? 😑😶😮💨
@@HorsepowerHouse its a mispelling of the word coil added by my cell phone. So glad you took the time to be an asshole. I indicated in the same comment that i have no experience and am trying to learn. But you know all and troll the comments while rubbin one out. Good times for you i guess.
Have the day you deserve... dickhead
Great video! You are one of the best video makers on RUclips for DIY vids.
Nice video! Quick tip, if you're getting a code for one solenoid, swap their location on purpose and see if the code travels. If it does, replace the bad one.
I love how he says, "The weather isn't the best for data logging...." then turns traction control off and runs his car up to 110mph with wet streets -- BRILLIANT!!
Nice video dude I literally have to do this every day since I work on BMW's (I've got the small hands) just wanted to let you know that there's two filters on the exhaust side of the cylinder head to the front opposite the coolant reservoir for the vanos solenoids it's a t40 torx head screw those should also be cleaned.
Are these on the N47 engine too??
@@gulag8735 not on n47 that's a diesel engine but on n46 the vanos solenoids have the filters on them not separate.
@@SSFXSTRENEMIGOBASHING Part number 11367541692 some people call it check valves, non return valves or vanos filter valves.
@@MT-gm2zh hi. Are these on n52? Thanks
@@julianbell9586 yes they are
Great pro tip putting the cloth underneath to catch anything that falls. Saved me a lot of headache 👍
More tips: good idea to lube the seals with o’ring silicon grease or engine oil before putting them back on, good advise replacing the solenoids at 100K miles, be extremely careful not to swap the electrical connectors, the engine will get crazy, my advise is to remove, clean and reinstall them one at the time. With the engine off the base settings of the camshafts is as follow: intake camshaft retarded and exhaust camshaft advanced, this is also the safe position in case of electronic control failure. When the engine is started, the camshafts remain in this position until the ECM detects the position of the camshafts from the sensors (50 rpm’s or 2-5 seconds) the ECM makes an initial timing based on oil temp, oil pressure and rpm, the solenoids are a very important part of the engine controls.
How do you do that on a 440 6 cyl ? Thanks
So any problem with switching the connectors back the right way? LOL
Didn't realize I'd done that and drove to work with an engine light just now.
Cleaned both Cam position
Sensor, cleaned, fixed all my problems. Which is the is what I thought you were doing. Never finish watching the video but thanks.
Love the BMW secret feature videos and this one too. I have a 7 serieswith 110K miles and have experienced a few miss fires. I certainly will try your tip.
How's your car doing? I have a 2010 535i with 95,000 miles. These cars are new to me and never knew how much preventative maintenance is required.
My car it's 335is, feel a strong sound and slow acceleration, and the engine may feel tired. I watched your video 🎥 right a few days ago and was thinking to do it. The results are impressive 👏 I can't believe what I'm see the different it's amazing 😍 I swear to God, man thank you so much 🙏
Thanks for the fix. Repair shops are very very upset with RUclips. They can no longer over charge to change something and end up changing nothing handing back your car with no job done.
Thanks for the video bro, I bought my 2008 E92 335i because of you, couldn’t be happier! And everything I needed to fix/replace was on your chanel, thanks :)
Awesome man! 👊🏼
You the Man!!!.. too bad I didn't see this Video before I replaced my Plugs and Coils.. But what the Heck it has over 200K and the plugs needed replacing. Now i have this Same exact Symptom, I'll try it out and hope it works... Love your Videos... I pretty much do all my Mechanical on my cars... This is my 1st BMW...
Did it work
After the Vanos are cleaned and the problem still hasn't go away, you should also clean the Vanos filter located on the lower right side of the engine.
He’s not lying. Changed my coils and plugs because car was missing badly now it purrs like a kitten. So smooth!
Mass air sensor cleaner is probably a better option to clean the solenoids
That radiator fan is just t2o screws away from being removed and it just pops out, after you unclip its wiring, again a simple clip and it comes off. Makes a whole lot of room to do the job without injuries to your knuckles etc. Nice one lad.
Did this with my BMW 3 series it was running in limp constantly and lost power at the top I personally chose the more expensive option of replacing them (partially since the car was at 200k km) and it really fixed the problem.
Were you getting any of the Vanos codes he wrote in the comments?
Apparently it is best to clean these AND the VANOS check valve/microfilters, which are on the exhaust side of the head, together. It is best to soak them rather than just spray them and give them a good shake and resoak as necessary until the inner piston can be heard to rattle up/down freely when shaken.
I've got the dreaded 002A87 code and the car is running like crap especially at lower revs. I expect to have to replace them at some point as the cars has now done 120k which is reasonable for the original parts, but hopefully this will work and get the old ones to last a couple more months while I save up for a pair of new OEM ones!
Everyone forgets about Vanos check valves filters that get clogged. They are on the left side of engine block.
Vanos filters??????
Where exactly are they
more specific on e - 39 engine, please
Yes I found these out too late, I tried absolutely everything else. Found out too late
bonkey dollocks what happened ?
@@fidelcarrillo2126 my 2002 318i N42 engine ran absolutely beautiful for about 18 months, it was immaculate, one owner low mileage time warp, it was stunning. Didn't use it much. Went out one day, running superb, I overtook a lorry and took it up to about 3.5k revs, pulled back in and it started to run slightly rough. Tickover fluctuating, hesitation, slight miss fire once only after start up. On advice from the BMW "specialist" I changed the cam sensors on both cams, no change, I changed the rocker box gasket because they dry up and leak air, no change, I struggled all day to change the brake pump o ring on the back of the head for the same reason, no change, I changed vanos o rings for the same reason, no change. I then had another mobile bmw "specialist" come to take a reading, post cat oxygen sensor was at fault, changed it, no change, I then took it too another BMW "specialist" who said the valvetronic had "worn", my retorte was " what in 200 yards? Running perfect, overtook a lorry then it started to run bad, so your telling me a mechanical system" wore" out in 200 yards? " once he had stopped squirming and going red he asked me to leave it with him. Two days later he said he had adjusted the valvetronic motor clearance 0.4mm and it" was a lot better". It was acceptable but not perfect, put with this the struggle I had changing the aircon hedgehog and the alternator and auxiliary belt tensioner and idler I sold it to some chav family who subsequently wrapped it round a lamp post some 6 months later and writ it off. I was put off by BMW but about 4 years later bought a two owner 2006 44k 320d, absolutely mint, se model, I then read about the swirl flap problem even though mine were the much improved plastic versions not like the e46 and how they can blow the engine up "if they fall into the engine". due to the corona virus lock down, the decision I don't like driving around in a time bomb and I only did 200 miles in it in ten months I flogged that as well. I read about the petrol engines on my year and problems with cylinder walls crumbling, one with the timing chain facing towards the rear of the car which believe it or not has chain problems so it's gearbox out to fix it and I've made a vow never to buy these pieces of overpriced bits of junk EVER again, add to this the clowns who claim to be specialists who can't fix them. I've still got my e30 I've had for 25 years (last ten years just sat in the garage) it never gave me any trouble. BMW? = big money waster
I literally came outside and opened the hood and trying to figure it out.He explained everything so good.👏👏👏
Not too familiar with BMWs, but I know that in general, cleaning solenoids or sensors only helps for a little while. They will go bad eventually, so you'd definitely want to be in the mindset that you will be replacing the solenoids eventually. This was a great and informative video though! Looking to pick up a 2011-2013 335i M-Sport in the near future. They're just super hard to find in the spec I want :/
Edit: when reinstalling o-rings, you want to use an o-ring lube, so that it slides in smoothly and doesn't crack or get pin holes when you put it back in.
I would recommend if you replace the o-ring or reuse them,is to lightly lube the o-rings before installing part to eliminate the possibility of rolling the o-ring, friction.
Another way to make room is to take the fan out. Like 4 bolts and an electrical clip. Gives you way more room to work.
For me taking the fan out was a LOT EASIER than getting it back in ... plan for a bit more time getting the fan back in correctly.
100% agree that his job would have been lots easier by pulling the fan! Learning how quick and easy it is will take a lot of the burden off doing any of the jobs needed on the front as the n54 ages; for instance replacing the mickemouse fitting and any hoses that cross the front; the serpentine belt and idler pulleys; radiator; intercooler; etc.
I want to add that while spraying brake cleaner through them will clean sufficiently I recommend bathing it in brake cleaner and trigger it using 12v repeatedly. This way any residue inside the solenoid will creep out as well and it's in almost factory condition afterwards. Also it is always recommended to replace both the gaskets - you won't want to disassemble this again in a few months due to a leaky seal, right? ;)
Cleaning is a band-aid. I can’t tell you how many time I have cleaned them for the issue to come back. This will help you save a little to get them and replace them.
I cleaned mine today car was running perfectly fine then half check engine light came, car still runs perfectly fine and idles fine no misfires. Should I go ahead and replace them? Would a full oil change help as well, cars 06 3 series 130k kms
Good video. I think after all that hard work I would replace them with new ones. BMWs are great cars to drive if you are mechanically inclined.
thanks man highly appreciated. Im going to try this fix on the weekend.
Cool :)! Will clean them and change the rubber gaskets too. Both are leaking. Thank you for your time. Much appreciated.
Even if your vehicle idles fine, its always a good idea to clean them out either way for preventative maintenance!
Precisely what I'm gonna do for my 100k miles '13 X5 35i
I have no vanos codes. But idle quality it's off a bit. I was reading the vanos performance in inpa. Intake solenoid couldn't keep it steady. So I might have to clean it and see. Thanks !
You should pull the anti return valve bolts out of the side as well. Mine were terrible and that was what was throwing the vanos code.
VERY GOOD POINT! - THATS WHAT PEOPLE DONT KNOW ABOUT
Theirs only gonna be a bmw enthusiast that hates on this and says just replace them but us youngins who dont have a lot of money can appreciate this, thanks!!
Actually already have a few comments stating to replace them. But I'm looking out for those on a budget too 💪🏼
I went to a shop and they said they were gonna charge $600 to clean one and replace the other one with a new one. I bought one new solenoid and changed that one and cleaned out the other one myself and haven’t had any issues after 8 months. Costed me under $200 and was very easy to do.
Hey Christian! More great content. What no Blinker fluid? :D Another tip for you is that you can remove the fan assembly for a lot more room. Just a thought.
what if my car only misfires during idle? it starts up with some misfires before sometimes vibrating aggresively with engine light blinking but when I turn it off and on it's fine again and has no fault codes at all, drives smooth with 0 misfires too. what's the issue?
I have the same problem. Morning start are shitty and when I start it again it little bit less shaky. When I drive everything is fine. This means it’s not your bogie’s or injection or bobine. I think cleaning your Vanos can be the cure. I am gonna do this upcoming weekend
@@DeOnbekendeHier mine was a faulty coil connector. car died on me on a trip 200km away from my country lol. used a flathead and messed around with one of the connector pins and it plugged back nicely.
before it was very tight and wouldn't go in nicely
That is most likely your injectors. Either that or one of your fuel pumps is leaking and not under pressure.
I am still living in the past with my e30 and e38. Neither of them have VANOS😂 But still watched this video
e38 w/o VANOS?
E38 had VANOS
All BMW's from 1999 on have it.
Double 2002's here
bhaase6945 Not all versions of the e38 had VANOS.
jus got ah 335i and tried to da some pulls when all a sudden i get a engine light. thank you for dis video i will make sure to clean them and see if everythin runs good ! preciate it bro
Great content bro, I was having these problems and decided to try this out video really helped ! 💯
💪🏼
I used an ultrasonic cleaner w/ vinegar and distilled water....
Also helps to apply voltage to both terminals a few times to get it moving.... they fail open like thermostats
Replace the O rings with OEM, if you have the solenoids out. Over time they are prone to leaking.
And lube when you install them.
0:18 :D nice fault codes haha
I clean yesterday the vanos of my 3series and it really works !finish the problem.😃i want to give you a hug but im in europe
Wow, I sold my 05 745i because it kept going into limp mode... wish I knew about this back then.
Also often forgotten is the nox sensor what gives the same issues with misfires.
Anyway, going to try the solonoids fix👍
Is there any risk of the brake cleaner damaging the part?...would mass air flow sensor cleaner be a better option since there is plastic?
I think MAF cleaner probably would be better. I bet most DIY-mechanics have a mostly full can laying aboot
Your site is a great help to many, I'm sure, I think for all your time and trouble, you should set up a patron connection. Are seem to know these cars inside out? Are you BMW trained?
i always come to this guy! i always depends on alot of his videos on his page! Keep up the great work brother!
👊🏼
Thank you so much
There are also two filters on the left of the machine at the bottom. It is good to disassemble and clean them
Damn the quality and easy instructions, keep me coming back. Automatic or not, I gotta watch ya videos!
Another side note when doing this also clean the one way valves they're located near the tensioner bolt They're t40 i believe and pull them out ...taking the passenger tire and the inner fender plastic out will give you better access but take them out and clean them off to where you can see through the screen filter. Also check your oil filter to make sure it's not broken or damaged these things along with vanos throw vanos codes.
Fun fact: today when I popped the hood on my N55 my coolant reservoir cap was sitting 3 feet away from the reservoir and on the alternator. No idea how it got there.
🤔
Also, check to make sure your oil filter cage inside the oil filter housing is present. Mine was not on purchase. Went 2 years with vanos issues only to find out i had no vanos issues.
There are also 2 razor filters on the exhaust side of the block near the manifold that should be cleaned every once in a while
What is a 'razor filter'?
Hate those vanus selenoids
Also i hate the essentric shaft sensor, the oil filter housing gasket, all the water hoses, those bosch coils, the weak control arms and bushings that cannot handle nyc. Other then that i miss my e90.
😂
My car ran fine(with proper maintenance) for 2 years. I slapped a tune on it and all those things started popping up.
You can test them too and I suggest you test them first. Get yourself a 2 pieces of wire or a power probe. You are going to apply power directly to the terminals on the solenoid and listen and feel for the click which is the solenoid opening and closing. Just connect power probe to battery and connect the ground to one terminal on the solenoid and the probe on the other terminal and apply power with the switch on the power probe or if you are using 2 pieces of wire same thing, connect one wire to + on battery and one wire on - on battery and touch other end of wires to each terminal on solenoid. The solenoid if working properly will open and close instantly and is very audible and you should be able to see inside the oil ports on the solenoid that it is opening and closing. You can also feel it. Cleaning them usually doesn’t work. Usually once they go bad they are bad. The phasers that these control also fail so if the solenoid doesn’t fix it it may be time for a labor intensive and costly replacement of your vct phasers and timing chain, guide and tensioners.
You just listed 2 of the codes that my car is throwing at me. I’m DEFINITELY going to try this out first. Wish me luck... 🙏🏾
Any update on the results? Did it work out?
Also which 2 codes popped up for you?
@@emmanuelperez7946 didn’t work that’s why he’s quiet
Thanks bro, very informative. You make it look easy. Gonna try this procedure this weekend. ill let u know the results.
Thank u and thank u..I think my car needs this attended to.
Nice vid appreciated. I do them just as VVT solenoids. I use alligator clips and attach both ground ( - )clips to the solenoid.Polarity doesn’t matter in this case. I just clip on both negative’s from a 12v battery to the solenoid. And clip to the solenoid + positive side and tap the clip to the battery + side. This allows you to open and and close the solenoid as u are spraying thus allowing a more thorough cleaning
I bought a pair of Chinese ones $40 for the set on Amazon a year ago... Been running great ever since.
I think the dirty OEM's are still sitting in the garage.
ASE requires that you disable the rad fan it can come on and chop your fingers.
VANOS
The infinitely variable double VANOS system is still in use on all NG6 engines. The system still retains the use of the lightweight VANOS units from the N52. The only change
to the system is that the N54 uses different spread ranges as compared to the other
engines (N52, N52KP and N51). As with the previous systems, the VANOS units should
not be mixed up as the spread ranges for the intake and exhaust are different and engine
damage could result.
Imagine how easy that would be with the engine out 🤣🤫 coming along though will be nice to see the numbers once your tuned👍🏻
Honestly at the time I didn't think about the Vanos Solenoids lol!
Sick video. Your car is quick! Gonna do this maintenance to my 2011.
Funny how my check engine light went away once I cleaned these out lol
Sounds like what is expected...
Let me just say that this is not just for BMWs. After I did this on my car my son's car what does a Chevy have the brake vacuum pump that's on the side of the engine brake. Of course it broke so bad that we had to remove the valve cover and pick out all the metal.
I saw the solenoids as he was removing the valve cover. When he went inside I grabbed a socket. He had two of them and I removed both. He had no idea what they were and I explained to him what they were and that they could be serviced. When the pump broke at 50,000 MI the o-rings on the Vanos were in perfect shape. They definitely needed to be cleaned. In his car it's extremely easy to get to them. So now every other oil change he pulls them out and makes sure they're clean. I went online and was able to find a 50 pack of the o-rings. So now whenever he pulls them out he just throws new o-rings on them just to be on the safe side.
I really do appreciate you taking your time and showing all this. Of course when I watch this video a couple years ago I must definitely hit the like and subscribe. I watched a lot of your different videos and I enjoyed those also. Again thank you for your knowledge on this problem and how to fix it for little to no money.
Just bought a new solenoid for $105 and now i found this video🤦♂️
Would you only recommend doing this if youre engine light is on and getting a misfire code? Can you have misfires and the eng light is not on?
Sorry if its a dumb question. Novice here trying to learn all i can.
My son owns a Bmw 3 series and damn this cars look so nice but when it comes to do some jobs you cant even put your hand in it 🤟🏽🤟🏽 thanks man doing that for my sons car
I don't even own a bmw , and found this information priceless . Thanks dude
name one thumbnail where christian doesn’t cover his face like that
128 videos and I cover my face in 4 of them. So I can name 124 videos that I don't :)
7*
@Noah Kelley haha, you actually went through all of them?! 😅
I have replaced the pcv, vanos and sensors and still getting the p0015 and p0012 engine codes. What else could it be?
ruclips.net/video/VQweif8dHFg/видео.html
Yeah I typically don't try to do any repairs on my car without gloves due to lack of space.