I made many a thousand tube clamps with a Di-acro and Dake arbor press in a factory to put myself through college. One of the most versatile tools if you can make your own dies.
I love the way you edit out the boring parts and make your videos as interesting as possible. It's obvious you listened to your critics instead of telling them not to watch if they don't like it.
I also have a 1A that I use for bending thinwall 4130 tubing in 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 diameter. I found that I can make larger bending dies and follow blocks using my 3D printer.
Hello Keith....I have the same bender....awesome tool, I made the 90 degree bend die along with the adjustment swing rod for repetitive setups lengths, still need to build the adjustable circumference stop (some day...lol)
We had one of these in high school shop class, the trouble with the tool is that it requires clearance all the way around it. It lived in the middle of an open space on the shop floor, in the way 99% of the time, but great when you actually used it.
1965 There was a di acro bender in my 9th grade shop class. I was bending hot metal and my feet were slipping on the floor. Out of nowhere the shop teacher appeared and helped me.
Looks great Keith !!! I don't comment much anymore because I am mostly watching you on the TV from a Fire Stick. But I still enjoy watching your videos. Whatever happened to the museum and the Steam Locomotive ??? I haven't seen anything from there for almost a year now I think. You sure do enjoy that great new shop of yours, THAT much is certain !!!!! Keep up the fire.
Nice to have a bender for cold work. I have the "other" brand, Hossfield but both get the job done. Making your own dies sure is a lot less expensive than buying them. That looked like an old piece of shafting you used, mild steel or WI ?
I have a Hossfeld #2 that dates to around 1930 (they started making them in something like 1923!), and still does everything I ask it to! Kind of cool that they’ve been producing essentially the same bender for 100 years, and it’s as useful now as they were in ‘23, 1923 that is!
I think they don't give you numbers for the spring back because it's too much dependent on the material. I'm sure that's something you could find in material specifications though.
I thought I mighta heard a mistake? I thought I heard you clock 0.625” for 9/16”? That bending rig is a really nice bit of kit. My workshop is much smaller than yours, though.....
For placing stop pins when making repetitive bends. Probably other uses also. Di Acro’s website has the manuals and “The Art of Bending” for viewing. These things are crazy expensive! The model Keith has sells for $2200.00 new with no tooling! A starter tool set will set you back at least another grand! They’re very proud of them I guess!
I can't understand why you take such small depths of cutf when you've got such big machines? Make Abom proud and make a chip! 😁 Doesn't that wobbly table drive you nuts?? Nice tool. Thanks for the video. 👍
There are center drill and spot drills. Virtually nobody on RUclips uses spot drills, but they are technically the right tool when you want to spot a mark to start a larger drill. The center drill has the shape it does because it is intended to drill a cone-shaped hole that you use to put a center point on the tailstock into, to hold the end of the work steady when you turn it. They are not really intended for spotting holes, but they work for that. A spot drill is just a stubby regular drill. They are also known as "screw machine drills", since they are the size that were typically used in screw machines.
Often I do not understand your way of working. When you turn with carbide inserts, you add oil. That brings nothing, except a lot of oil fume, which sits on the lungs. Then you drill with HSS, but dry. And oil would extend the life of the drill.
@@henryD9363 Not even 1% of the oil gets into the cutting edge. I'd say it's closer to 0%. There's some chance when a mister is used, but that also coats everything around in a film of oil.
Sorry guys but I'm sure Keith has said before some metals he uses oils on as a coolant and to make a better finish. He has named different types of them also. I also have used lathe's 46 years and found trying to find the exact speed for certain metals not to heat up the metal or bit is not always easy when you grab a unknown metal out of your saved scrap. Now if you figured the cost of new bits into your price of a selling parts, you make parts fast and make money, but if out of your pocket you think twice. Joe Pieczyaski, Mr Pete222 also many years of lathe use do the same as Keith. If we all had safe coolant with pumps on the lathe to keep it safe for us it would be the best, but lets remember this is Vintage Machinery we watch.
I made many a thousand tube clamps with a Di-acro and Dake arbor press in a factory to put myself through college. One of the most versatile tools if you can make your own dies.
I love the way you edit out the boring parts and make your videos as interesting as possible.
It's obvious you listened to your critics instead of telling them not to watch if they don't like it.
I also have a 1A that I use for bending thinwall 4130 tubing in 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 diameter. I found that I can make larger bending dies and follow blocks using my 3D printer.
That bender takes me back to my junior high and high school metal shop days.
Hi Keith. Just bought a used Di-acro bender and I'm looking forward to using it. Nice video, thanks for posting it.
Hello Keith....I have the same bender....awesome tool, I made the 90 degree bend die along with the adjustment swing rod for repetitive setups lengths, still need to build the adjustable circumference stop (some day...lol)
I'd be reaching for a few beer mats to wedge under the wobbly leg. Nice little video. Thanks Keith.
Another tool to use in the shop!
I've got a wood splitter nd assorted hammers.
We had one of these in high school shop class, the trouble with the tool is that it requires clearance all the way around it. It lived in the middle of an open space on the shop floor, in the way 99% of the time, but great when you actually used it.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Yes.
1965 There was a di acro bender in my 9th grade shop class. I was bending hot metal and my feet were slipping on the floor. Out of nowhere the shop teacher appeared and helped me.
Nice Di-acro Kieth. Hard to find and pricey, great job,but that rocking table would drive me crazy and that's a short drive lol!
Your lucky it's just a short drive that way you can always make it back. 🙂
Thanks, Keith. Nice rig.
Cool. Thank you for sharing.
real nice work
good camera angels
well explained
editing dept. gets an A+
I've subbed
Looks great Keith !!!
I don't comment much anymore because I am mostly watching you on the TV from a Fire Stick.
But I still enjoy watching your videos.
Whatever happened to the museum and the Steam Locomotive ???
I haven't seen anything from there for almost a year now I think.
You sure do enjoy that great new shop of yours, THAT much is certain !!!!!
Keep up the fire.
Good morning Keith!
This is lunch time...
@@Rich-on6fe 10:30pm Tuesday here in New Zealand. It's morning west of London UK as I type this
Richard Ball you know the world has different time zones right?
But it’s mornin’ in Georgia, USA!
Hello Keith I would bold the table of the bender to the floor so its not sliding and rocking around
Ya think? You sure are a smart feller.
Keep the videos coming. Thanks
The wobbly table was driving me nuts. Lol
Love golden retrievers nice shop dog
Love tool and video.....you know....He who dies with the most tools wins!
nice job
Enjoyed very much , as usual it gave me some ideas ,thanks
Nice to have a bender for cold work. I have the "other" brand, Hossfield but both get the job done. Making your own dies sure is a lot less expensive than buying them. That looked like an old piece of shafting you used, mild steel or WI ?
I have a Hossfeld #2 that dates to around 1930 (they started making them in something like 1923!), and still does everything I ask it to! Kind of cool that they’ve been producing essentially the same bender for 100 years, and it’s as useful now as they were in ‘23, 1923 that is!
I think they don't give you numbers for the spring back because it's too much dependent on the material. I'm sure that's something you could find in material specifications though.
I thought I mighta heard a mistake? I thought I heard you clock 0.625” for 9/16”?
That bending rig is a really nice bit of kit. My workshop is much smaller than yours, though.....
go back and listen he said .5625 "
Well, you know, spring back varies by the alloy, the thickness, and the width. The Machinist’s Handbook has the numbers and formulas.
Hi Keith, thanks for another good video. What are those holes around the base used for?
For placing stop pins when making repetitive bends. Probably other uses also. Di Acro’s website has the manuals and “The Art of Bending” for viewing. These things are crazy expensive! The model Keith has sells for $2200.00 new with no tooling! A starter tool set will set you back at least another grand! They’re very proud of them I guess!
Don't you find the footing of that bending table a bit of a safety concern? perhaps a video on improving it's stability.
I can't understand why you take such small depths of cutf when you've got such big machines? Make Abom proud and make a chip! 😁
Doesn't that wobbly table drive you nuts??
Nice tool.
Thanks for the video. 👍
deeper and more feed.... break that chip
I kind of wondered the same. I take bigger cuts with a quarter the machine. But maybe it's because I'm young and in a hurry...
Everyone has a different style.
The wobbly table... not cool!
Might as well heat that these when done. You've got half a set made now.
Wondering why the center drill has the shape it has, as mr. Goodunof consistently only drills virtually a centerpunch mark.
There are center drill and spot drills. Virtually nobody on RUclips uses spot drills, but they are technically the right tool when you want to spot a mark to start a larger drill.
The center drill has the shape it does because it is intended to drill a cone-shaped hole that you use to put a center point on the tailstock into, to hold the end of the work steady when you turn it. They are not really intended for spotting holes, but they work for that.
A spot drill is just a stubby regular drill. They are also known as "screw machine drills", since they are the size that were typically used in screw machines.
😊
Keith, please secure the table legs on the floor. It hurts to see your table wabeling like that. Good job
Same. Especially with all the machinery and talent in that shop...
How to make nut for manual meling
👍👍👍
What brand parting tool are you using, what's the model #
I was wondering the same thing also. It looked well built. I'd sure like to know myself.
Drill a new pin hole in the base
Is the rod fully anealed?
Please consider puting windshield on your microphone
i dare you ! Say "radiuses" one more time! nice vid.. thx
...humble correction: radiuses is also correct ( sounds weird though )
Radii.
Often I do not understand your way of working. When you turn with carbide inserts, you add oil. That brings nothing, except a lot of oil fume, which sits on the lungs. Then you drill with HSS, but dry. And oil would extend the life of the drill.
99% of the oil does not reach the cutting edge. Although most of it does get cooked!
Also not even taking enough of a cut to break the chip with that insert. Going from 2.5" to 2" could be two passes for that Monarch, three tops.
@@henryD9363 Not even 1% of the oil gets into the cutting edge. I'd say it's closer to 0%. There's some chance when a mister is used, but that also coats everything around in a film of oil.
I was taught in machine tool technology that carbide was only used with full flood coolant or dry.
Sorry guys but I'm sure Keith has said before some metals he uses oils on as a coolant and to make a better finish. He has named different types of them also. I also have used lathe's 46 years and found trying to find the exact speed for certain metals not to heat up the metal or bit is not always easy when you grab a unknown metal out of your saved scrap. Now if you figured the cost of new bits into your price of a selling parts, you make parts fast and make money, but if out of your pocket you think twice. Joe Pieczyaski, Mr Pete222 also many years of lathe use do the same as Keith. If we all had safe coolant with pumps on the lathe to keep it safe for us it would be the best, but lets remember this is Vintage Machinery we watch.
So title is making a set of dies .. not Half making them Keith