Using that roller looks like a great idea to keep your fingers from getting cut. One of the things I have enjoyed about the RUclips contributor community is their willingness to help others.
Great video. I sure do love your shop and equipment. I have a beautiful Brown and Sharpe 618 Micromaster. I picked it up from a 93 year old retired machinist. he hasn't used it in quite some time so I needed to do the basics. Replace the Bijur valves, change the oil and filters. Grind the B&S chuck etc. I have recently completed a few grinding jobs. I always learn from your videos. Keep it up! You are awesome!
Hi Keith, Thanks for the video. I like engraving a precision part rather than stamping although I have done both. Stamping a part introduces stress that may not work all the way out when tempering. You can use a carbide burr in a pencil grinder to mark the part. Thanks for the shout out. Steve
Thank you for the video. Reminded me of some of my apprenticeship projects some 35 years ago. At that time we relied on the colour of the oxide to judge the temperature of the steel during the tempering process, and a bucket of dry sand for regulated cooling, much less accurate. By chance, it occurred to me while watching your last video that some heat treatment ( tempering and case hardening) of the new Daisy Wheel Plate may be advantageous and interesting if a bit of a challenge due to its' size.
In my first year of apprenticeship in germany, we had to file stuff like these. It took a week, then three days, then one. In retrospective, I kind of liked it.
In the machine shop, I've found that sometimes taking the 'long way around' approach to machining a feature or entire part offers the time opportunity to be more mindful and learn some things you wouldn't have by doing it more speedily. Same finished outcome and completely within specifications. But you had the time to ingest some extra knowledge.
That angle is incorrect. The part should first be placed perfectly square to the pivoting sine plate which it is not against a back rail on the sine plate. Also slightly rotating the sine plate would minimize the amount of wheel contact causing heat dwelling for the grinding operation. Too many of these people doing things wrong and pawning it off as proper tool room practice. This guys is oblivious to what he is doing wrong. I was asked to review this for an apprentice. If you want to learn superior grinding principles go check out Don at suburban tool videos. He is a Toolmaker.
Great video and words of encouragement! Tom Lipton recently had a video and he zoomed in on a sign in his shop that says “just start” when we give our selves that kick in the butt anything is possible
As a broach maker who uses tapers everyday I wouldn’t mind sharing a little trick I’ve learned. Take your overall taper (.1875) and divide by your OAL. (4?) that number will give your taper per inch which is very simple math from there not requiring sin make your stack up.
About the comments about the finish: True, not perfect, glad to hear you guys are. Considering this was a first attempt and that he is running on an older machine I'd give him a 9.999 out of 10. I was wondering about the method of getting the parts off the mag chuck, seems like sliding them with the grinding slurry still there would wear the chuck??
Looks good...I hate people with stupid questions....and suggestions....stamp size or angles before h/t...1st grind would be sides to remove stamping riser..then edges...when setting up on sine plate , be sure the long sides are parallel to axis of grinder
Keith, don't get too worried about some of the advice that comes across a little harshly. They were much more kind than what apprentice bricklayers get. Of course back when you were in training in a shop you probably got some of that easy to remember advice, too! Greg.
Great video! I cut my teeth in a machine shop running grinders. I recently purchase my own surface grinder for my shop at home. It's a boyar Schultz 612. I love your grinding videos and enjoy all of your videos.
When grinding things like that on the edge, it’s good to block each side with some kind of support so it doesn’t tip over or move. That’s not much surface area to hold it down.
Keith, you always inspire me. I'm also a newbie with the surface grinder (SF). Have watched many of your videos showing your SF work. Would so much appreciate if you would reveal the full details of the grinding wheel that you're using for any particular job. It's helpful to newbies. Thanks and keep up those great videos of yours.
Keith, I was wondering if you figured out how to deal with the oil on the ways squishing out when you'd stop resulting in the distance from the wheel to table changing? I have a brown and sharp no2 that dose that while changing direction. Wondering if a change of way oil would help.
I would have liked to see the end result compared to a sine bar on a surface plate. Mainly for my education but I think we'd all enjoy seeing it. You in the market for a laser engraver for your future tool projects?
I do love your posts. Keep them coming. It may seem picky, but Keith, you described the angle formula wrong. You wrote tan(A) = opp/hypotenuse. In fact, it is sin(A) that would be that ratio. (Remember the mnemonic - SOHCAHTOA.) In fact however, you do have the formula correct, because the right triangle is set so that what you WANTED to compute was the ratio opposite/adjacent. The hypotenuse of the right triangle is the longest side. So what you wanted to solve for was the angle A, such that tan(A) = opposite/adjacent = 0.75/12 atand(0.75/12) = 3.5763 degrees And that was exactly what you did solve. So I'm pretty sure that you knew what you were doing, only that you described it incorrectly. (Easy to do. I once published a paper where I got the very first formula wrong. And I had proofread it, and asked someone else to proofread it. We both missed the obvious.) Now, is the difference really significant? You get lucky in this even if you screw it up. For small angles, tan and sin are actually pretty close, because tan(A) = sin(A)/cos(A). And for small angles, cos(A) is VERY near 1. No matter in the end.
My uncle was a mechanical engineer educated in the 1920s. He used "temper" for heating the metal and then plunging it into water or oil. He used "anneal" for slow cooling. Maybe it has changed since then.
The difference here is (1) the hardness desired (circa Rc 54-55) is near the low end of the "high" hardness range (Brinell Hardness Number circa 540-550, for those who use that scale), so a fast quench is not wanted (you do not want a brittle part, just one that will not deform or deface easily); AND (2) this part is so thin that any kind of quench will cause it to far exceed the desired hardness (knife and sword blades, for example) and it looses heat very fast due to its high surface area to volume ratio (plus the very high heat conductivity of that tight-contact metal foil cover adding to that surface area), so this will cool the metal wedges fast enough to get the desired hardness. You are right in that for thick objects, the slower air cool would result in an anneal to a lower hardness as the carbon in the steel has time to be squeezed out into the inter-crystal-grain matrix, leaving less inside the crystals and thus more ferrite and pearlite (ductile low hardness) and less martensite and cementite (rigid high hardness) in the metal. Tempering, if done properly, does not try to change the amounts of martensite or cementite (you do not want to soften the metal much), but it allows portions that have a higher hardness than others ("kinks" in the structure) to loosen and stretch out, resulting in a much smoother, tougher, flexible material (fewer broken swords, for example). The temper temperature used, here 1000 degrees F (I think F), is on the high side; most tempering is done at 400-500 degrees. This depends on the steel, but some steels have a VERY crucial dependence of the end result on this tempering temperature, with the wrong temperature actually making the steel HARDER and MORE brittle ("temper brittleness")! Complicated...
Annealing is a slow cooling from the critical temperature to bring the metal to full soft. Quenching is the process of "rapid" cooling to bring the metal to full hard or maximum hardness. Tempering is the process of partially softening the metal from full hard to a level in between full hard and annealed. The tempering temperature determines how much softer the tempered steel is from full hard. Different steels have different requirements for quenching hence the "rapid" in quotes. "A" tool steels are air quenching, "O" tool steels are oil quenching and "W" are water quenching. There are many others too.
The drawing near the end showing the 0.75" hypotenuse is not correct since you are representing the full taper rather than the taper per side which would be correctly shown as drawn,but with the hypotenuse at 0.375". You then calculate the half angle and double it. The actual included angle of a 3/4" per foot taper is 3.5798 degrees as referenced rather than the 3.5763. (Tan-1 0.03125 =1.7899 degrees, then multiplied x 2 =3.5798 degrees )
@@karcinoma If you read Bruce Adler's reply he goes into more detail. In the meantime,I incorrectly referred to the 0.75" dimension as the hypotenuse which it clearly is not,the hypotenuse is the longest side opposite the 90 degrees. Keith also made a slip in referring to the Tangent as opposite (0.75") over hypotenuse,when it should be opposite over adjacent.
how do you get there. for me starting welding in 1994 worked my way thru the job shops fabricating sheet metal too beams had really good teachers a job came in at a job shop one day jr you think you can mill this part out sure had to ask how to turn the mill on. next day went ordered the basic mics and tooling that I paid for. 25 years later fabricating and machining is may trade love it wish more kids would try the trade. thank you mr rucker
Can't help but notice 2 pieces stacked in a vise? It's always been a force of habit to sandwich and not stack, just wondering your method to the madness. You're work is incredible by the way, i enjoy your videos thank you! I've learned a lot just from watching
My tip would be to place your diamond wheel dresser leaning in the direction of the wheel rotation. It looked to me as if it was leaning into the direction of rotation, if it were to jam into the wheel it could have easily shattered that wheel sending bits everywhere including your eyes.
Just an observation / question, but when grinding the angle shouldn't the piece be brought into parallel with the stone? or am i just "over thinking it"?
From the side the stone is a perfect circle and the piece is a level surface, as long as just point is in contact with the piece being ground, then it does not matter. In geometry terms the piece is always tangential to the stone.
The taper of the thread is listed as 1 in 16 on the diameter. The taper angle is listed as 1 deg 47 seconds or 1.783 deg (~ 1/2 of 3.58 deg). Wonder which one he wanted?
You come up with a business plan. Add up all your costs (electricity, rent, water, office supplies,etc) - that's your expenses. Add in your salary (make it a livable wage). Add in your profit. Add in extra for repairs, upgrades etc. That's what you charge a client. If a friend asks, learn to say no most of the time. This is how you make your living.
Not a machinist, but I'm thinking if you had ground both sides flat and parallel first, the, bottom and ends would be much more likely to come out square and parallel when you chucked them in the vice for grinding.
Next, they need a "Vintage Machinery" or "Rucker" stamp or etching. I wonder if the tool steel "grew", i.e., expanded in size as a result of the hardening.
It depends on whether the as received material was fully normalised (most likely it was), extended or prolonged heating promotes "Grain Growth" . Most standard tool steels do not change in size an appreciable amount, how ever, if you were to machine a considerable amount of material away, think cutting an open slot like a horse shoe, heat/quech would severely distort, without a post machining normalising. Hope this helps.
@@bostedtap8399 "Grain Growth!" _That_ was the term I couldn't remember. I remember noticing W1 drill growing in size after heat treating, but I wasn't certain if it only affected one specific alloy was was typical for tool steel heat-treating. Thanks!
Dimensional change on A2 during hardening is really minimum. Official number is +0.1% at as quenched state. Double or even more tempering helps long-term stability though.
silly question,the spelling of gage vs gauge... what is the proportion in the US, and which is considered more traditional? (I love machining and language, lol)
Based on past dictionary lookups and past discussions I've seen, the proper term would be gauge, which most uses of gage people meaning the same thing as gauge. But, I think here in the U.S., we probably use them interchangeably. Instruments and measuring equipment seem to get the gage spelling more often.
Just a word of warning that tool warp can be very sharp,you can get a nasty cut.The shop I was in reguired the toolmakers to wear gloves when using tool wrap.
The only way you should be disappointed abut not adding identifying information is it was on the print and you missed it. If it was not on the print, the designer is the one with the regrets. Had you added it without the print calling for it, you could have messed up something later in the designer's thoughts. I think you did it just right.
You created the gage blocks to exactly match the instructions provided by your viewer, but I'm pretty certain those instructions are wrong. The included angle of an NPT pipe thread is not 3.5763°. It's 2 x 1.7899°, or 3.5798°. Your viewer used the wrong formula to determine the included angle because if you extend the sides of an NPT taper until they meet at a point, that forms an Isosceles Triangle NOT a Right Triangle. It's an Isosceles Triangle with a base of 1" and a height of 16". Which is different than a Right Triangle with a base of 1" and a height of 16". The 1" per 16" taper of an NPT thread is the taper of the DIAMETER, not the RADIUS. To determine the included angle of the taper you have to take half the quoted taper (1/2" in 16" which is the same as 1" in 32"), to get the side of the Right Triangle formed by the center axis and the adjacent side (ie the decrease in the radius is half the decrease in diameter). Then determine the included angle of that Right Triangle (arctan(1/32) = 1.7899°). And then double that taper angle to get the included angle 3.5798°. Also, I don't see how your viewer intends to use a gage block for the INCLUDED angle of an NPT thread. Surely what's needed is the angle of the pipe thread. In other words, the half angle of 1" in 16" ( 1.7899° ).
Depends on how far you need to draw it back- a2 is usually somewhere between 58-65Rc straight out of HT. The further away the target Rc is the higher the draw temp sometimes requiring incrementally stepping it up until you hit your target. 450 is a safe start temp
hey I watched a good video on youtube. Colchester lathes. a video made by the business, maybe in the 50s. shows castings, machining and set up. have you seen that video.
I watched that video a couple weeks ago. It was amazing! Probably the best factory tour I've ever seen. I couldn't believe how sophisticated the company was or the quality control. A must see for anyone interested in machining, industry ect.
Not quite correct. The 10" sine plate means that the hypotenuse of the triangle is 10". The 0.75" per foot taper has the legs of the triangle being 0.75" and 12" respectively. And using the pythagorean theorem, we get a hypotenuse of 12.023414656411", so the stack is approximately 0.6238" (Value to 10 decimals is 0.6237828616). So Keith's value is off by single tenth since he truncated instead of rounding his final result.
If everyone walks out of the shop at the end of the day Healthy and with all their Parts, it's a Good Day. If at the end of the day you have all the above and none of the machines are broke, It's a Great Day. If at the end of the day you have everything above and Work got done, You Stay in Business, go have a beer! :)
Hey Keith, I think your using your wheel dresser the wrong way around. If it catches the wheel, it will pivot on the left edge up into the wheel causing it to explode. The post with the dressing diamond on it is angeld because it pivots away from the wheel if set up correctly. The way you have set it up it will pivot into it. Also try to position the dresser left of the centerline of the wheel to avoid this danger. Great videos Keith!
I wonder if you could electro-etch hardened tool steel? Alec Steele uses this process to put his makers mark on his swords, and the process seems straight foward. Here is a link to the process. ruclips.net/video/jiNQ2xVpeHE/видео.html. Chris
Not dangerous. The smooth side of the blade can give you a friction burn, if you get against it very hard. It can also prevent the saw from falling against something, like your leg.
Using that roller looks like a great idea to keep your fingers from getting cut. One of the things I have enjoyed about the RUclips contributor community is their willingness to help others.
Great video.
I sure do love your shop and equipment.
I have a beautiful Brown and Sharpe 618 Micromaster. I picked it up from a 93 year old retired machinist. he hasn't used it in quite some time so I needed to do the basics. Replace the Bijur valves, change the oil and filters. Grind the B&S chuck etc.
I have recently completed a few grinding jobs.
I always learn from your videos.
Keep it up! You are awesome!
Hi Keith,
Thanks for the video. I like engraving a precision part rather than stamping although I have done both. Stamping a part introduces stress that may not work all the way out when tempering. You can use a carbide burr in a pencil grinder to mark the part. Thanks for the shout out.
Steve
Nice job Keith. The path can always vary but still get to correct end.
no matter the turns in the road...the destination is what matters. nice Keith.
Thank you for the video. Reminded me of some of my apprenticeship projects some 35 years ago. At that time we relied on the colour of the oxide to judge the temperature of the steel during the tempering process, and a bucket of dry sand for regulated cooling, much less accurate. By chance, it occurred to me while watching your last video that some heat treatment ( tempering and case hardening) of the new Daisy Wheel Plate may be advantageous and interesting if a bit of a challenge due to its' size.
I enjoy your videos, look forward to your friendly demeanor each week. Thanks
Nice job Keith, glad to see you start down a new road with tool making.
In my first year of apprenticeship in germany, we had to file stuff like these. It took a week, then three days, then one. In retrospective, I kind of liked it.
Enjoyed the video. I knew pipe threads are tapered, now I know how much. It turned out nice. Thanks for posting.
Always cool to watch a pro work.
In the machine shop, I've found that sometimes taking the 'long way around' approach to machining a feature or entire part offers the time opportunity to be more mindful and learn some things you wouldn't have by doing it more speedily.
Same finished outcome and completely within specifications. But you had the time to ingest some extra knowledge.
That angle is incorrect. The part should first be placed perfectly square to the pivoting sine plate which it is not against a back rail on the sine plate. Also slightly rotating the sine plate would minimize the amount of wheel contact causing heat dwelling for the grinding operation. Too many of these people doing things wrong and pawning it off as proper tool room practice. This guys is oblivious to what he is doing wrong. I was asked to review this for an apprentice. If you want to learn superior grinding principles go check out Don at suburban tool videos. He is a Toolmaker.
Great video and words of encouragement! Tom Lipton recently had a video and he zoomed in on a sign in his shop that says “just start” when we give our selves that kick in the butt anything is possible
You can etch in the numbers. We did that at work all the time. Looks very good.
Sent you a small package that should arrive very soon. It will help you when you get back into using the Foundry.
As a broach maker who uses tapers everyday I wouldn’t mind sharing a little trick I’ve learned. Take your overall taper (.1875) and divide by your OAL. (4?) that number will give your taper per inch which is very simple math from there not requiring sin make your stack up.
Hi Keith
He sent you out a thing of what he wanted you to make for him...and you did it....
👍🇬🇧👍🇬🇧
About the comments about the finish: True, not perfect, glad to hear you guys are. Considering this was a first attempt and that he is running on an older machine I'd give him a 9.999 out of 10.
I was wondering about the method of getting the parts off the mag chuck, seems like sliding them with the grinding slurry still there would wear the chuck??
I have used some engravers that would mark hardened steel. Enjoyed seeing it "Get done" :-)
also he could use some kind of acid right?
A vibrating pencil with a diamond tip would work fine for the marking.
JIM
Looks good...I hate people with stupid questions....and suggestions....stamp size or angles before h/t...1st grind would be sides to remove stamping riser..then edges...when setting up on sine plate , be sure the long sides are parallel to axis of grinder
Keith, don't get too worried about some of the advice that comes across a little harshly. They were much more kind than what apprentice bricklayers get. Of course back when you were in training in a shop you probably got some of that easy to remember advice, too! Greg.
Kieth: using electricity and acid, you can ETCH the information onto the surface, like they do for gauge pins.
Great video! I cut my teeth in a machine shop running grinders. I recently purchase my own surface grinder for my shop at home. It's a boyar Schultz 612. I love your grinding videos and enjoy all of your videos.
When grinding things like that on the edge, it’s good to block each side with some
kind of support so it doesn’t tip over or move. That’s not much surface area to hold
it down.
Keith, you always inspire me. I'm also a newbie with the surface grinder (SF). Have watched many of your videos showing your SF work. Would so much appreciate if you would reveal the full details of the grinding wheel that you're using for any particular job. It's helpful to newbies. Thanks and keep up those great videos of yours.
thanks for the show
Hey Keith, this is a great excuse to buy a laser etcher!! You can use it to make the dial for the Victoria Safe!! :)Rich
Great work Keith 👍🇦🇺
enjoyed as always,thanks
Nice video Keith. Thank you for sharing!
Great video
You can put a sheet of paper down on the chuck to prevent scratches on the ground surface. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, great video.
Good job.
Good ole 1°47' pipe threads. Don't miss having to run them on Screw Machines.
Keith, I was wondering if you figured out how to deal with the oil on the ways squishing out when you'd stop resulting in the distance from the wheel to table changing? I have a brown and sharp no2 that dose that while changing direction. Wondering if a change of way oil would help.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
I would have liked to see the end result compared to a sine bar on a surface plate. Mainly for my education but I think we'd all enjoy seeing it.
You in the market for a laser engraver for your future tool projects?
Very interesting video, thanks for sharing.
Great video and yes there are many roads to rome, at the end you come there, as always thumps upp :-)
I do love your posts. Keep them coming.
It may seem picky, but Keith, you described the angle formula wrong. You wrote tan(A) = opp/hypotenuse. In fact, it is sin(A) that would be that ratio. (Remember the mnemonic - SOHCAHTOA.)
In fact however, you do have the formula correct, because the right triangle is set so that what you WANTED to compute was the ratio opposite/adjacent. The hypotenuse of the right triangle is the longest side.
So what you wanted to solve for was the angle A, such that
tan(A) = opposite/adjacent = 0.75/12
atand(0.75/12) = 3.5763 degrees
And that was exactly what you did solve. So I'm pretty sure that you knew what you were doing, only that you described it incorrectly. (Easy to do. I once published a paper where I got the very first formula wrong. And I had proofread it, and asked someone else to proofread it. We both missed the obvious.)
Now, is the difference really significant? You get lucky in this even if you screw it up. For small angles, tan and sin are actually pretty close, because tan(A) = sin(A)/cos(A). And for small angles, cos(A) is VERY near 1.
No matter in the end.
Tan = opp/adjacent , not opp/hyp.
However, when you put the actual numbers in, you used adjacent, so the solution is correct.
0.6237? Is the base of the sine plate 9.98 inches long?
I think you did a fine job.........
I'd chemically etch the angle, would be a good how to video for the spare!
Exactly my thoughts
My uncle was a mechanical engineer educated in the 1920s. He used "temper" for heating the metal and then plunging it into water or oil. He used "anneal" for slow cooling. Maybe it has changed since then.
The difference here is (1) the hardness desired (circa Rc 54-55) is near the low end of the "high" hardness range (Brinell Hardness Number circa 540-550, for those who use that scale), so a fast quench is not wanted (you do not want a brittle part, just one that will not deform or deface easily); AND (2) this part is so thin that any kind of quench will cause it to far exceed the desired hardness (knife and sword blades, for example) and it looses heat very fast due to its high surface area to volume ratio (plus the very high heat conductivity of that tight-contact metal foil cover adding to that surface area), so this will cool the metal wedges fast enough to get the desired hardness. You are right in that for thick objects, the slower air cool would result in an anneal to a lower hardness as the carbon in the steel has time to be squeezed out into the inter-crystal-grain matrix, leaving less inside the crystals and thus more ferrite and pearlite (ductile low hardness) and less martensite and cementite (rigid high hardness) in the metal. Tempering, if done properly, does not try to change the amounts of martensite or cementite (you do not want to soften the metal much), but it allows portions that have a higher hardness than others ("kinks" in the structure) to loosen and stretch out, resulting in a much smoother, tougher, flexible material (fewer broken swords, for example). The temper temperature used, here 1000 degrees F (I think F), is on the high side; most tempering is done at 400-500 degrees. This depends on the steel, but some steels have a VERY crucial dependence of the end result on this tempering temperature, with the wrong temperature actually making the steel HARDER and MORE brittle ("temper brittleness")! Complicated...
Annealing is a slow cooling from the critical temperature to bring the metal to full soft. Quenching is the process of "rapid" cooling to bring the metal to full hard or maximum hardness. Tempering is the process of partially softening the metal from full hard to a level in between full hard and annealed. The tempering temperature determines how much softer the tempered steel is from full hard. Different steels have different requirements for quenching hence the "rapid" in quotes. "A" tool steels are air quenching, "O" tool steels are oil quenching and "W" are water quenching. There are many others too.
You can always etch or EDM information or makers mark into hardened steel.
Curious to know if you need to break the edges on pieces like this and if so how.
You can just use a stone(aluminum oxide) or set up in the grinder on a magnetic transfer v block if you need more of a chamfer
As you grind, doesn’t the diameter of the stone change and throw off the detentions ?
The wheel wears but it doesn't wear that fast because you are only grinding with the leading edges of the wheel
Nice video, I wii could have won that oven at the bash. Maybe next year. Thanks, JB San Diego
It may be too late for stamping the angle but maybe you could acid etch it. Do you have the tools to do that?
The sell addon laser engraving heads for 3D printers for fairly cheap now.
The drawing near the end showing the 0.75" hypotenuse is not correct since you are representing the full taper rather than the taper per side which would be correctly shown as drawn,but with the hypotenuse at 0.375".
You then calculate the half angle and double it.
The actual included angle of a 3/4" per foot taper is 3.5798 degrees as referenced rather than the 3.5763.
(Tan-1 0.03125 =1.7899 degrees, then multiplied x 2 =3.5798 degrees )
ive been trying to wrap my head around this....could you explain it a bit more?
@@karcinoma If you read Bruce Adler's reply he goes into more detail.
In the meantime,I incorrectly referred to the 0.75" dimension as the hypotenuse which it clearly is not,the hypotenuse is the longest side opposite the 90 degrees.
Keith also made a slip in referring to the Tangent as opposite (0.75") over hypotenuse,when it should be opposite over adjacent.
how do you get there. for me starting welding in 1994 worked my way thru the job shops fabricating sheet metal too beams had really good teachers a job came in at a job shop one day jr you think you can mill this part out sure had to ask how to turn the mill on. next day went ordered the basic mics and tooling that I paid for. 25 years later fabricating and machining is may trade love it wish more kids would try the trade. thank you mr rucker
Can't help but notice 2 pieces stacked in a vise? It's always been a force of habit to sandwich and not stack, just wondering your method to the madness. You're work is incredible by the way, i enjoy your videos thank you! I've learned a lot just from watching
If he makes a stamp to personalize his work it might say, "I did it my way "
JIM
Can always etch the angle into them.
Hey Keith, I love your videos, haven't seen anything from the museum lately, do you still volunteer there?
My tip would be to place your diamond wheel dresser leaning in the direction of the wheel rotation. It looked to me as if it was leaning into the direction of rotation, if it were to jam into the wheel it could have easily shattered that wheel sending bits everywhere including your eyes.
Just an observation / question, but when grinding the angle shouldn't the piece be brought into parallel with the stone? or am i just "over thinking it"?
From the side the stone is a perfect circle and the piece is a level surface, as long as just point is in contact with the piece being ground, then it does not matter. In geometry terms the piece is always tangential to the stone.
will the harden steel take a mark from an electric pencil/engraver?
If he is using this to set his taper attachment, it needs to be half of the angle for 3/4" taper per foot.
The taper of the thread is listed as 1 in 16 on the diameter. The taper angle is listed as 1 deg 47 seconds or 1.783 deg (~ 1/2 of 3.58 deg). Wonder which one he wanted?
Easier to do the sine table gauge block height calculation as a ratio of the length to height.
Also, converting back and forth into/from an angle introduces error. It is neglible but nevertheless there.
when heat treating I believe you can also use borax to keep it from scaling and oxidizing
Tom Lipton would be envious.
I am new to doing machine work for others and have had several people ask me to do stuff on the lathe for them, How do you know what to charge?
You come up with a business plan. Add up all your costs (electricity, rent, water, office supplies,etc) - that's your expenses. Add in your salary (make it a livable wage). Add in your profit. Add in extra for repairs, upgrades etc. That's what you charge a client. If a friend asks, learn to say no most of the time. This is how you make your living.
Couldn't you use acid etching, to mark the dimensions on it?
Not a machinist, but I'm thinking if you had ground both sides flat and parallel first, the, bottom and ends would be much more likely to come out square and parallel when you chucked them in the vice for grinding.
try acid etching them with the deg.
Next, they need a "Vintage Machinery" or "Rucker" stamp or etching.
I wonder if the tool steel "grew", i.e., expanded in size as a result of the hardening.
It depends on whether the as received material was fully normalised (most likely it was), extended or prolonged heating promotes "Grain Growth" . Most standard tool steels do not change in size an appreciable amount, how ever, if you were to machine a considerable amount of material away, think cutting an open slot like a horse shoe, heat/quech would severely distort, without a post machining normalising. Hope this helps.
@@bostedtap8399 "Grain Growth!" _That_ was the term I couldn't remember. I remember noticing W1 drill growing in size after heat treating, but I wasn't certain if it only affected one specific alloy was was typical for tool steel heat-treating.
Thanks!
Dimensional change on A2 during hardening is really minimum. Official number is +0.1% at as quenched state. Double or even more tempering helps long-term stability though.
@@jlg4880 You're welcome.
silly question,the spelling of gage vs gauge... what is the proportion in the US, and which is considered more traditional? (I love machining and language, lol)
Based on past dictionary lookups and past discussions I've seen, the proper term would be gauge, which most uses of gage people meaning the same thing as gauge. But, I think here in the U.S., we probably use them interchangeably. Instruments and measuring equipment seem to get the gage spelling more often.
@@RyanWeishalla Yes, I'd noticed it on gauges quite often, I wondered if there was a regional variation?
You could etch a label, check out” etch o matic”
Should be right on?
The angle could be laser engraved or acid etched
Hi, could you used borax instead of stainless steel? Thanks Karl
Just a word of warning that tool warp can be very sharp,you can get a nasty cut.The shop I was in reguired the toolmakers to wear gloves when using tool wrap.
The only way you should be disappointed abut not adding identifying information is it was on the print and you missed it. If it was not on the print, the designer is the one with the regrets. Had you added it without the print calling for it, you could have messed up something later in the designer's thoughts. I think you did it just right.
Tangent equal opposite over hypotenuse does it? Must be that new math.
Sohcahtoa
Tangent = opposite/adjacent
You created the gage blocks to exactly match the instructions provided by your viewer, but I'm pretty certain those instructions are wrong.
The included angle of an NPT pipe thread is not 3.5763°. It's 2 x 1.7899°, or 3.5798°. Your viewer used the wrong formula to determine the included angle because if you extend the sides of an NPT taper until they meet at a point, that forms an Isosceles Triangle NOT a Right Triangle. It's an Isosceles Triangle with a base of 1" and a height of 16". Which is different than a Right Triangle with a base of 1" and a height of 16".
The 1" per 16" taper of an NPT thread is the taper of the DIAMETER, not the RADIUS. To determine the included angle of the taper you have to take half the quoted taper (1/2" in 16" which is the same as 1" in 32"), to get the side of the Right Triangle formed by the center axis and the adjacent side (ie the decrease in the radius is half the decrease in diameter). Then determine the included angle of that Right Triangle (arctan(1/32) = 1.7899°). And then double that taper angle to get the included angle 3.5798°.
Also, I don't see how your viewer intends to use a gage block for the INCLUDED angle of an NPT thread. Surely what's needed is the angle of the pipe thread. In other words, the half angle of 1" in 16" ( 1.7899° ).
Maybe you can still acid etch the numbers into it still.
I thought the temper should be around 450 degrees ?
Depends on how far you need to draw it back- a2 is usually somewhere between 58-65Rc straight out of HT. The further away the target Rc is the higher the draw temp sometimes requiring incrementally stepping it up until you hit your target. 450 is a safe start temp
hey I watched a good video on youtube. Colchester lathes. a video made by the business, maybe in the 50s. shows castings, machining and set up. have you seen that video.
I watched that video a couple weeks ago. It was amazing! Probably the best factory tour I've ever seen. I couldn't believe how sophisticated the company was or the quality control. A must see for anyone interested in machining, industry ect.
I believe that, for a 10" sine plate, the stack should be precisely 0.625" (10/12ths of .0.75"). Law of Sines (thank you Sister Perpetua).
Not quite correct. The 10" sine plate means that the hypotenuse of the triangle is 10". The 0.75" per foot taper has the legs of the triangle being 0.75" and 12" respectively. And using the pythagorean theorem, we get a hypotenuse of 12.023414656411", so the stack is approximately 0.6238" (Value to 10 decimals is 0.6237828616). So Keith's value is off by single tenth since he truncated instead of rounding his final result.
@@johncochran8497 Ack! Yep, I was getting confused. Apologies
Keith: Sorry I missed you at the Bar-Z. I'm a generous person, but sharing the flu isn't something I wanted to do. Jon
Hay what happened to working on the locomotives
He gets a lot more free shit working in his own workshop.
wrong formula Keith, tan= opp over adj
If everyone walks out of the shop at the end of the day Healthy and with all their Parts, it's a Good Day.
If at the end of the day you have all the above and none of the machines are broke, It's a Great Day.
If at the end of the day you have everything above and Work got done, You Stay in Business, go have a beer! :)
Hey Keith,
I think your using your wheel dresser the wrong way around. If it catches the wheel, it will pivot on the left edge up into the wheel causing it to explode. The post with the dressing diamond on it is angeld because it pivots away from the wheel if set up correctly. The way you have set it up it will pivot into it. Also try to position the dresser left of the centerline of the wheel to avoid this danger.
Great videos Keith!
I think you're using your when you should be using you're.
David Phillips Damn, I hate when that happens. LOL
a precision door stop
"en papillote". Works with fish as well.
Hi Keith, It isn't clear to me how this is used...
I wonder if you could electro-etch hardened tool steel? Alec Steele uses this process to put his makers mark on his swords, and the process seems straight foward. Here is a link to the process. ruclips.net/video/jiNQ2xVpeHE/видео.html. Chris
Laser the info on
If at the end of the day the drink you like is in the glass, than you did it right
Holy crap Keith, did I see you reach through that bandsaw?! Just let it fall on the floor buddy!
Not dangerous. The smooth side of the blade can give you a friction burn, if you get against it very hard. It can also prevent the saw from falling against something, like your leg.
A chemical etching pen would be a good way to mark that gauge. Laser etching would give a very professional look.
The goal is to Get R Done and not break anything lol
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