Having to do a job over is the worst! The RUclipsrs I watch assume quality is fundamental to their work, even when it costs them personal time or money, or when a lower quality shortcut would have produced a satisfactory result. You and the others settle for no less than an A+, as evaluated by both you and your customer. This inspires me to achieve the same standards in my work. Thank you!
Keith, I have done a lot of bearings in the Navy. Our molders would "peen" the babbitt after it cooled. First, they would pour extra thick. Then take a ball peen hammer and dent every square inch, this would put the babbitt under a little stress toward the inside, and, if it's gonna peel from the shell, it will do it then. Better to know before you go through all the machining steps. So basically, it will literally pop out while you're peeing it, hope this helps.
Before tinning the cast iron, just apply a copper sulphate solution. This leaves a thin coat of copper, to which the tin bonds much better than to cast iron alone.
Now I want to find an excuse to pour my own babbitt! Really great to see a babbitt that failed. Was curious about their “stickiness”. Also, nice to see the resurrected train project coming back. I need to follow another mega project!
When I saw how THIN that bearing shell was going to be - I PANICKED..... But I figured that the lathe would rip it out, not the mill! Glad you made it work! GREAT SOLUTION!
Wow! Keith this is what I love about your channel “the Good, the Bad & the Ugly” I wish you were taking on an apprentice I would apply (if I were 30 or 40 years younger 😂) thank you for the interesting content!
When that babbitt came loose, I flashed to Clark at Windy Hill Foundry and how he must feel after spending hours setting up a mold, only to have the casting look like a half-melted chocolate bar. Dump it out and start over…that’s the casting - and now we see it’s also the Babbitt-pouring - business.
You have just confirmed my brother's comment that human hands are the dumbest part of the body. Good thing you had gloves on when you tried to stop the first part from falling. I can not tell you how many times I have confirmed his statement as well. Great recovery
Forgive me but every time you do this operation I find myself humming “A babbit met a bromide…” for the rest of the day. And, of course,breaking into a nifty tap dance.
Mr Babbett lol , a lost art , keep up the good work . Thanks I have more knowledge watching your videos each time I watch even with time management prep the work before it even gets to the shop
It is truly a master/senior who encounters a failure and knows what the SOLUTION is. As precision as this babbit was designed to be it's surprising the original design didn't INCLUDE the attaching holes. The choice of metals would almost demand these attaching holes. So, a few big holes or a bunch of small is the question. Would scraping the steel's surface also help? I found the following on the internet=> However, the backing material to which babbitt is bonded may benefit from a roughened surface to ensure a secure bond between the babbitt and the backing material . This roughness helps hold the babbitt securely in place, preventing detachment during operation.
After time to think about this, I am curious if Keith made other changes in the process. More carefull, slower feed when drilling the 3/4" oil holes? Different geometry of oil slots, maybe leave a bit more babbitt? Slower feed when milling oil grooves? Maybe careful to only use climb cut with that 3/8" ball nose, to keep tool pressure toward the steel? I sure understand the rush and no time to further discuss details. Great video Keith!
That must have been so disappointing. When things like that happen to me, after I calm down, I try to tell myself, better to find out now than later. And drilling those fixing holes makes for a much more certain result. Especially in such a thing bearing, as you say.
Thanks for the video. That was a surprising failure and I couldn't tell whether the Babbitt hadn't bonded to the tin or the tin hadn't bonded to the steel - my guess is the tin not bonding with the steel because bonding a tin alloy to tin is always going to work! Maybe that particular grade of steel requires a different flux than the flux contained in Tintite.
I'm sure you already know this but modern locomotives use babbitt bearings for the traction motors. But what you may not know that there is a foundry in Fremont Nebraska. They make bearings for a significant number of locomotives worldwide. And their tolerances are so close that they can mix and match the upper and lower bearings.
it seems funny to me to see a boring head spinning, i use mine in the tailstock of my wood lathe to bore out precise holes with the workpiece in the headstock chuck!
In the video at about 30:55 to 31:00, you can see that the oxidation was not wiped off of the tinning solder on on corner of the second pour. That my have been where you had the failure. I hope you had better success on the second pour.
From my armchair it seems It's like whoever engineered that modern part wasn't familiar with or just didn't want to use the age old tried and true babbitt grip engineering we have seen in your vintage machines. Those slick grooves and the direction they were cut in was a head scratcher. Your drilled dimples are probably bulletproof.
Seems like it would have been a lot easier to just have it together sit it on a flat plate on its side with a 3"slug roughly in the center plug the side holes and pour it from the bore side. Since you were going to bore it anyway making the dummy and the rings seems like unnecessary work you could have just machined it on the ends to make it pretty when you bored it. This would have avoided any cold jointing from topping up from the opposite side of the mandrel.
The shell is very similar to an automotive crankshaft or large diesel engine insert bearing, should work fine as long as the oil pressure is high enough.
Hey Keith! My best wishes for the holiday season and a question. In the past you would soot the pouring mandrel before setting up. Recently I haven’t seen it and was curious about why your workflow changed. Thanks!
Although the main bearing bore looking 'shiny' when you got it (pre-bored and 'threaded'), I wonder how much time had elapsed since they did it? Presumably, if an oxide layer was already forming on that steel bore, that might have compromised the tinning adhesion?
At 30:39 - Keith lets go of the handle of his big Wilton vice and it goes CLUNK". Doesn't seem like much of a big deal, but Wilton vices always come with thick rubber washers at either end of their heavy steel handles. Why? First, to prevent damage to the screw end and handle over time. Second, to prevent getting your finger pinched as the end of the heavy handle slams down on the screw end. Easy to retrofit with washers you can find at the hardware store. Enjoy, John
Wouldn't it make sense to turn the barrier ring with the alignment step as part of the mandrel on one end and only make the other side as a separate ring?
Keith, where do you get your Babbitt? I just got a 1908 Crescent 8" jointer, and a 12" American Williamsburg jointer, both need the bearings re-poured. I'm hoping you don't say Magnolia Metals, called them today and don't think I've ever dealt with a more unfriendly company ever, was just trying to find the right babbit material for a higher shaft speed application. The lady who worked there (For the last 40 years) was just plane rude, I'm thinking Santa must have crapped in her stocking...
Any particular reason for boring these rings out? To me it looks like this could be done on a lathe just as well, and the benefit is you can actually check the fit while having them still in the chuck - so...?
Does there need to be some shims between the halves when you are boring it? Or does this application require it to be located exactly so you can’t tolerate shims?
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
i sent that piece of bar stock!!! im glad to see it going to good use!!!
That's a chonky bar very nice :)
Was that induction hardened?
On behalf of Keith and his customer(s); Thank you!
That's cool to see how stuff like that has a life beyond when you give it to someone else.
a worthy donation.
Nice work Keith, i appreciate you showed the original failure
Having to do a job over is the worst! The RUclipsrs I watch assume quality is fundamental to their work, even when it costs them personal time or money, or when a lower quality shortcut would have produced a satisfactory result. You and the others settle for no less than an A+, as evaluated by both you and your customer. This inspires me to achieve the same standards in my work. Thank you!
Thank you for sharing the failures along with the successes, love your work.
Thanks for showing the entire process, Keith, including the original unhappy ending. This is how we all learn.
Some days you are the pigeon
Some days you are the statue 😮
You handled it well......
Keith, I have done a lot of bearings in the Navy. Our molders would "peen" the babbitt after it cooled. First, they would pour extra thick. Then take a ball peen hammer and dent every square inch, this would put the babbitt under a little stress toward the inside, and, if it's gonna peel from the shell, it will do it then. Better to know before you go through all the machining steps. So basically, it will literally pop out while you're peeing it, hope this helps.
It seems no matter how skilled one is, sometimes the work piece has a mind of its own. Many thanks for the video.
I like when you show the issues you run into
You made it clear; precision machining takes time. Rush jobs can easily turn unto failure.
Holes in the ends of the gloves makes for an exciting time holding/moving hot stuff. Looks like another fun project for sure.
Tough Keith! I guess that one of life's laws is that things are most likely to go wrong when we are in a hurry. Well recovered though!
Before tinning the cast iron, just apply a copper sulphate solution. This leaves a thin coat of copper, to which the tin bonds much better than to cast iron alone.
Now I want to find an excuse to pour my own babbitt!
Really great to see a babbitt that failed. Was curious about their “stickiness”.
Also, nice to see the resurrected train project coming back. I need to follow another mega project!
41:13 .. That looks SO great!!! .. Like a mirror finish!
When I saw how THIN that bearing shell was going to be - I PANICKED..... But I figured that the lathe would rip it out, not the mill! Glad you made it work! GREAT SOLUTION!
Wow! Keith this is what I love about your channel “the Good, the Bad & the Ugly” I wish you were taking on an apprentice I would apply (if I were 30 or 40 years younger 😂) thank you for the interesting content!
Way to go Professor. The second time is the charm. Thanks for showing us the first one.
I almost cried when I saw the Babbitt come loose, realising that you had to return to square one. I'm so sorry for you, but I know you will succeed.
I love that you show the good, the bad, and the ugly. Great job again!
When that babbitt came loose, I flashed to Clark at Windy Hill Foundry and how he must feel after spending hours setting up a mold, only to have the casting look like a half-melted chocolate bar.
Dump it out and start over…that’s the casting - and now we see it’s also the Babbitt-pouring - business.
Looks good. Bad bond just not a good thing. Well done on the redo. Thanks for sharing Keith.
Vintage Machinery - the babbitt bearing channel
The real BBC?
A DRO is the cat's meow 😁. I know I'll never go back lol. Well done, Max!
Cheers!
Very nice, clean Babbitt pour, Keith. Thank you for showing us this pour; sorry that you had a failure.
You Are The Best At Babbitt Repair you make it look easy thanks for sharing
You have just confirmed my brother's comment that human hands are the dumbest part of the body. Good thing you had gloves on when you tried to stop the first part from falling. I can not tell you how many times I have confirmed his statement as well. Great recovery
Good fix better than new
Nice work Keith - you made a challenging job look easy!
Mama told me there would be days like this ! Thank you for another Great video. Cheers
Forgive me but every time you do this operation I find myself humming “A babbit met a bromide…” for the rest of the day.
And, of course,breaking into a nifty tap dance.
I've not come across that before, thank you!
Awsome video, paying attention to detail really does pay off, amazing to see you do the job properly. Great video Keith, have a great day.
Thanks for a fine video of the challenges in the shop
Another great installment from Keith at Vintage Machinery! Well done sir!
Nice job Keith.
Mr Babbett lol , a lost art , keep up the good work . Thanks I have more knowledge watching your videos each time I watch even with time management prep the work before it even gets to the shop
Good morning keith! Have a great week!
Exellent work Mr Babbit
Interesting, new babbitt application
It sure is a nice representation of delamination on that first Babbitt even with just the tinning on it.
Thank you Keith 😊
Nicely done Keith.
Well done, Keith!
Thank you for sharing.👍
If your going to have a problem it is still better to have it before it leaves the shop. That way you can fix it. IMO Thanks Keith
Great work - a wonderful learning experience !
Thanks Keith!
Another informative and interesting video! Thank you Keith!!
Thank you Keith!
Very nice 😎😎😎👍👍👍
Murphy strikes again.
Happy Monday Keith!😊⚙️🛠🚂👍👍👍👍✌️
Thanks for a fine video thank you for the interesting content!
Good job.👍😎
Thanks Keith
Wow, tough break Keith but a nice save.
Great job.
Better now than new ! Great work. Keep it going?
44:23 Soon as I saw that pulled away?? I thought I bet Keith is gong to drill pocket holes to key in the Babbitt ... As he mentioned earlier
Thank you
great video Keith !!
It is truly a master/senior who encounters a failure and knows what the SOLUTION is. As precision as this babbit was designed to be it's surprising the original design didn't INCLUDE the attaching holes. The choice of metals would almost demand these attaching holes. So, a few big holes or a bunch of small is the question.
Would scraping the steel's surface also help? I found the following on the internet=>
However, the backing material to which babbitt is bonded may benefit from a roughened surface to ensure a secure bond between the babbitt and the backing material
. This roughness helps hold the babbitt securely in place, preventing detachment during operation.
Nice, now you know
After time to think about this, I am curious if Keith made other changes in the process.
More carefull, slower feed when drilling the 3/4" oil holes?
Different geometry of oil slots, maybe leave a bit more babbitt?
Slower feed when milling oil grooves?
Maybe careful to only use climb cut with that 3/8" ball nose, to keep tool pressure toward the steel?
I sure understand the rush and no time to further discuss details.
Great video Keith!
Makes you wonder how the manufacturer was able to get the babbitt to stick to the steel originally! 😄
great job Keith
Yea it be that way sometimes. Did the owner say where the bearing goes or what it is used for?
Excellent video. Learned something new. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
That must have been so disappointing. When things like that happen to me, after I calm down, I try to tell myself, better to find out now than later. And drilling those fixing holes makes for a much more certain result. Especially in such a thing bearing, as you say.
Thanks for the video. That was a surprising failure and I couldn't tell whether the Babbitt hadn't bonded to the tin or the tin hadn't bonded to the steel - my guess is the tin not bonding with the steel because bonding a tin alloy to tin is always going to work! Maybe that particular grade of steel requires a different flux than the flux contained in Tintite.
Good morning Keith and greetings from the oldest town in Texas, Nacogdoches. Another interesting video and nice work.
How is that pronounced? Never heard anyone say it... I can only read it as Nay Cog Doh Cheese
Very close!!
I'm sure you already know this but modern locomotives use babbitt bearings for the traction motors. But what you may not know that there is a foundry in Fremont Nebraska. They make bearings for a significant number of locomotives worldwide. And their tolerances are so close that they can mix and match the upper and lower bearings.
Good fix sorry you had to do it twice!
it seems funny to me to see a boring head spinning, i use mine in the tailstock of my wood lathe to bore out precise holes with the workpiece in the headstock chuck!
I was kinda thinking that the poured babbit was thin, but the manufacturer made it that way.
In the video at about 30:55 to 31:00, you can see that the oxidation was not wiped off of the tinning solder on on corner of the second pour. That my have been where you had the failure. I hope you had better success on the second pour.
From my armchair it seems It's like whoever engineered that modern part wasn't familiar with or just didn't want to use the age old tried and true babbitt grip engineering we have seen in your vintage machines. Those slick grooves and the direction they were cut in was a head scratcher. Your drilled dimples are probably bulletproof.
Kinda makes you wonder why they wouldn't drill those holes in every Babbitt casting .
Seems like it would have been a lot easier to just have it together sit it on a flat plate on its side with a 3"slug roughly in the center plug the side holes and pour it from the bore side. Since you were going to bore it anyway making the dummy and the rings seems like unnecessary work you could have just machined it on the ends to make it pretty when you bored it. This would have avoided any cold jointing from topping up from the opposite side of the mandrel.
5:58 The umpteenth time Keith blows an insert on mill scale 😬
The shell is very similar to an automotive crankshaft or large diesel engine insert bearing, should work fine as long as the oil pressure is high enough.
That babbitt shows some wild colours as you pour it. Does it have bismuth or something as part of the alloy?
More than likely it is a part of the alloy, might even have some Antimony. Wonderful colors even after it cools.
What is your name of the soft Kitty?
Wonder what they did differently when they poured the original bearings. Different mixture (lead)?
👏
Could you put the mandrel and the damning material in and then put the assembly in the oven?
Tin it the proper way, tried and true old school.
Hey Keith! My best wishes for the holiday season and a question. In the past you would soot the pouring mandrel before setting up. Recently I haven’t seen it and was curious about why your workflow changed. Thanks!
Although the main bearing bore looking 'shiny' when you got it (pre-bored and 'threaded'), I wonder how much time had elapsed since they did it? Presumably, if an oxide layer was already forming on that steel bore, that might have compromised the tinning adhesion?
The flux would eat any oxidation away no problem.
The tin definitely bonded otherwise it would have just formed droplets and sagged to the bottom.
Inquiring minds want to know: what machine does that bearing fit?
At 30:39 - Keith lets go of the handle of his big Wilton vice and it goes CLUNK". Doesn't seem like much of a big deal, but Wilton vices always come with thick rubber washers at either end of their heavy steel handles. Why? First, to prevent damage to the screw end and handle over time. Second, to prevent getting your finger pinched as the end of the heavy handle slams down on the screw end. Easy to retrofit with washers you can find at the hardware store. Enjoy, John
Wouldn't it make sense to turn the barrier ring with the alignment step as part of the mandrel on one end and only make the other side as a separate ring?
Would copper plating the bearing shells before tinning help with adhesion?
Keith, where do you get your Babbitt? I just got a 1908 Crescent 8" jointer, and a 12" American Williamsburg jointer, both need the bearings re-poured. I'm hoping you don't say Magnolia Metals, called them today and don't think I've ever dealt with a more unfriendly company ever, was just trying to find the right babbit material for a higher shaft speed application. The lady who worked there (For the last 40 years) was just plane rude, I'm thinking Santa must have crapped in her stocking...
A second pair of hands would have been useful on this project. Resourceful job.
Any particular reason for boring these rings out? To me it looks like this could be done on a lathe just as well, and the benefit is you can actually check the fit while having them still in the chuck - so...?
What do you do with an insert when you change it out? Is is scrap metal or can it be sharpened?
❤️🔥
Sorry about the failure but you still prevailed.
Does there need to be some shims between the halves when you are boring it? Or does this application require it to be located exactly so you can’t tolerate shims?