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You're a GENIUS. Thank you for sharing this with us. I'm using Sony cameras, and I finally got this to work. I have have a Nissin i60A and two off-brand Photoolex M500 flashes as well as the Nissin Air 1 Commander.
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Hi, everyone :) To make this work here's what you need to do: 1. Flash on lightstand: Remote on SU4 at 1/1 power 2. Flash on camera: 1/1 Full power (on Manual mode, NOT TTL) 3. Camera on MANUAL exposure mode (M) 4. F number on camera: as low as you like 5. ISO: 100 to 200 is good 6. Shutter Speed: 1/thousands so that the photo does not over exposed (I normally meter to -2 on Matrix) Nice of all of you to drop by and follow my works, thank you Andrew Boey Director Of Academy Nikonian Academy
But for those who like to know WHY this works: You flash in full power should be longer, or same that your cameras fastest mechanical speed=sync-speed. So, if your camears sync is 1/250s, your flash have to keep the light on that time, even if you camera is setted to 1/4000s, as this is just a narrow curtain travellin over the "film-port" on sync-speed. In short, you have to have "slow flash" and that is what you can check from your flash manual, what is the flash-time on full blast.
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Very confusing. With SB 900 and hss activated, you can go up to 1/8000 and TTL easily. Why do you have to set on full power. In the clip you did not explain the mode used for the sb900. TTL remode HSS or SU4 manual Waiting for urs answer
Andrew Boey, dude you saved me a crap load of money, thanks. I can't believe I never thought of this before. This is good enough to let me turn day to night. I can now overpower the noonday sun with one speedlight and sync multiple lights with no need for triggers and receiver, brilliant, just brilliant. This has proven to be really fantastic, thank you so much for sharing.
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Hi, everyone! Watch this NEW VIDEO now and understand WHY you need to break sync speed. It is NOT merely about turning on your Auto FB (just a means to an end, and NOT the end itself, as you can see). You break sync so that you have an alllllllll new option of shooting in very LOW F number (producing blurry background), yet still not over-exposing your pics and at the same time, allowing you to use ANY studio lights that you already have and NOT being limited to Nikon's highly proprietary CLS system. Enjoy: ruclips.net/video/JflxDO_AvME/видео.html
This is actually pretty interesting. Yes, if your flash supports HSS it's more convenient to use that (or an ND filter) and yes, this eats LOTS of battery power but it's great to have another trick up your sleeve because you never know what's going to happen tomorrow and as a professional photographer it is your responsibility to make things work.
You said: "if your flash supports HSS it's more convenient to use that (or an ND filter)" But the fact is, you have to have a flash that supports HSS to do this "trick" anyway, otherwise your camera will never let you select a shutter speed of 1/5000 with the flash attached.
Remember this is NOT Nikon's CLS method, which is a proprietory technology (Not fun). Flashes that will work on this method would be: 1. Nikon's SB700 (though not power enough), SB800, SB900 & SB910 (all these flashes has SU4 mode on remote) 2. These Flashes won't work: SB600 - cos it ONLY has CLS method. Canon users, we can get it to work, but not all the time. My trainers and I will experiment and see how we can 'hack' a solution that will give you this similar amazing lighting.
you HAVE to have a camera with HHS or Auto-FP (Nikon)... this "little" bit of info was left OUT of this video for some funny reason..... there is NO WAY to effectively bypass ones shutter sync speed WITHOUT a Higher level cannon or Nikon DSLR using HSS (Cannon) or Auto-FP (Nikon)
Thank you thank you thank you. I appreciate this guy's demonstration, but that's the whole damn point of having that option on cameras to begin with. Where exactly is the hack again? Not asking you.
I think this is HyperSync, not High Speed Sync. That's why the power has to be at full power. If it were HSS, then you could use other power levels. If you have a flash lying around, it's worth trying.
Quick ? what do you recommend if you are in bright sunlight. You didn't mention that if you are using filters. Can you explain this in your syn method. Enjoyed the info keep up good work
You can also achieve the same effect-using an - ND1.2 - 4/f Stop Neutral Density Filter if you normally set your flash exposure to F/11 you would then set your aperture to F/2.8 when using a - 4/f Stop Neutral Density Filter. This gives you exactly the same exposure but significantly less depth of field.
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No, not HSS. Still syncing at low speed. He is maxing out the flash intensity to force more light through when shutter speed is high. The penalty is using a lot more battery power to achieve the same. The output is nice but not neutral enough for me. Still it is a technique to get bokeh when HSS is not available.
Holy crap, I can’t believe this actually works! I’m gonna go back and review this a half a dozen times just to believe what I’m seeing. These flashes don’t come cheap but they’re far less expensive than a megawatt high speed sync ProFoto strobe system. Great video👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽... I’m a subscriber now.
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hi, another beginner question - i have Nikon d3300 and two speedlights: TRIOPO TR 560EX and cheeper VILTROX JY680A; should i make all this tricks shown in the video above?
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Hello again, i have a nikon... can you do HSS with one SB flash? Have you ever used a third party flash like vivitar for HSS? is HSS necessary for portrait shots?
i just tried it with my nissin di 622 mark ii with my canon 60D and it works but sometimes the shutter speed is back to 1/250. is there any solution for this?
Nice trick Andriew Boey !. It's a kind of Super Sync with speedy lights. It can provide a bit more flash to subject distance range than HSS alone. But it needs HSS between on camera flash and remote flash, and the last one must be at full power. Really nice !. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼.
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A bit of misunderstanding and misinformation on how this really works. The on camera flash does NOT need to be on full power (but it may be needed to trigger the remote flash if the remote flash sensor is pointed in the wrong direction and/or it is very bright). It is there SIMPLY to fool the camera into using the different internal flash timing settings from HSS on flashes which are set to *not* use HSS. The Matrix metering mode on the camera is also not mandatory, TTL is not being used, so since you are using manual flash, it doesn't matter what the camera "sees", you decide how your background and foreground appear via ISO, aperture, shutter speed and flash. Back in April, 2012, I describe this in detail here on Yourtube, do a search for "High Speed Hack Trick". :) Today, we use high end triggers like the PW ControlTL units that take advantage of this technology and call it HyperSync. They also add adjustability to maximize the power output to the flash to shutter timing event and a ton more features. It is also possible to do with other basic triggers like the Plus II, but the triggers have to be fairly quick, not all triggers will work properly. We also use studio strobes so that even more power can be output and we can start to easily overpower the sun without needing tools like ND filters that can introduce artifacts into the shot. There are many ways to accomplish similar effects, and it makes a great tool for photographers that like to shoot outside. Thank-you for your video!
Jerry P.H. I've tried and I don't know what the key step is that I am missing. I've watched your video before his as well, and to be honest, there were a lot of steps that confused me. I can not find quick and simple instructions anywhere :/ lol
Ryan Garcia When you looked at my video of the High Speed Hack Trick (here at RUclips under the JerryPHcom name), what part confused you? And to answer your question, yes, you need a flash that can use HSS, not to use HSS, but to fool the camera into using the HSS timing tables so that you can get properly lit frames. Best way is to use wireless triggers. The cheap ones won't work well, but something like PocketWizards and other faster triggers will work. Again, the on camera flash HAS to be TTL/HSS compatible. Does it 100% work on your camera? I have no way to know, I am a Nikon person.
Why don't you use ITTL? Set E/C to -1 ev and increase flash exposure to +1 ev. Set wider aperture f2.8 and allow high speed syncho on the camera (Nikon). Let ITTL work for you.
Thanks for the video - my question is how do you get the flash exposure correct with this method, since you're setting the flash at full power and the aperture wide open? Do you experiment with the flash distance to the model? Also, what is the reason the controller flash has to also be on full power? Thanks! I love your videos!
I use nikon sb700 to broke speed sync with my nikon d7200 i make the fp320 and make a speed light at remote mode with su4 but when i shhot uo to 1/320 its black
Hello, a very interesting episode, but in Canon when I put a lamp on the camera, which does not have HSS, it automatically sets up the synchronization time to 1 / 250s. what to do in this case?
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Just kidding. I use a godox X trigger and set it together with my camera with HSS in group A. But there's no flash receiving this signal, only another flash trigger on top of that one, triggering my external flash with its dumb signal that is not smart enough to be detected by the stubborn bossy camera who doesn't know its place.
I'm seeing alot of negative comments. The guy takes the time to try and teach you something that actually works (with the correct setup per your equipment) and you throw around insults.
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This is a highly unusual and different method of addressing this shutter speed and flash issue. If I am understanding correctly, one needs to use a VERY high shutter speed, one which clears the entire sensor in about the same time as the flash duration. I am thinking this would not work well at about 1/500. Also, some cameras won't allow the shutter to be set faster than 1/200 or 1/250 if there is a flash on the hot shoe. How does one avoid that issue?
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Does this mean that we can only use this method using 2 or more flashes? And single on-camera flash alone will not poduce the same background-blur output?
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So to be clear, the flash that was firing at the model behind the umbrella was in manual mode as well and was on which mode?? Receiver mode waiting to "see the light" from the flash on the camera in IR triggered mode? or what exactly? thanks
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That didn't work at all on my end... You should talk about the curtain effect. However, i got the same exact result using the 160 at full power. Maybe it's the camera I don't know... Time for an A7iii I guess
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Its really crazy ..the comments you have from people who have not tried it or did not listen correctly to your directions !!! I had seen your video about 4 years ago .I used an old olympus camera and two old sunpak flashes ..in fact for the second I used one of those vintage light triggers to get it to go off with the one on the camera . It worked perfect ..and the olympus is not HSS compatible . since then I did buy HSS flashes and you can not tell the difference ! I will try it with the strobes this summer as per your second video :) Thanks for these great videos . INfact here is the link to the first test shot I had tried with your method... I also had some photographer with a huge ego tell me you can tell the difference ..that HSS would of been more superior ::) oi67.tinypic.com/2w2397s.jpg
+Aperture Shots wow. reading your comments and seeing your pics totally made my day sir. so sorry it took us a while to reply to you. you are totally true and right abt wht u just said up there. thank you sooooo much.
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For blurring the background in daylight using larger apertures like 1.4-2.8, I would use a variable ND filter for around $30. By stepping down 5 stops you can bring the shutter speed from 1/8000 down to 1/250. Am I missing something?
Hey thanks allot for this! I have a d5100 Nikon body, and Yongnuo 568ex flash.This is a great little camera but has no HSS. So this work around is exactly what I was looking for!
What is the trick? To use flash as trigger and an off-camera flash that both support High Speed Sync? This is not trick. This is something "by the book" and also expensive (HSS flashes are not cheap). Trick would be to present an alternative to the regular ways for HSS that would save us money.
Actually, the trick is to get the camera to capture *more* light on the frame than when using HSS. HSS typically costs you 2-3.5 stops of light. This trick loses a lot less when shutter speeds exceed your max sync speed.
Jerry P.H. Jerry, you TRULY nailed it. Looks like you truly understand the difference between slit-flashing and sensor-flooding. We have used this method even with normal NONE HSS light and even those big huge Elinchrome lights... THIS TRICK,.. WORK :) THank you, Jerry for dropping by. Always happy to see viewers who understand how things work before they unload their loud- mouthed comments. THANK YOU for that, sir :) - Andrew Boey
hahahaha :) i feel i'm missing something :) so no need to set the complicated TTL thing! just use the highest power and it will work? another question please, i always people talk about sync speed when using flashes, how about studio strobes they don't do the same problem? Thank you
Thank you.... and sorry about the kung fu part... it was just to help viewers 'remember' key parts of the video (which is 'full power' = longer punch). I hope you have fun trying it and thank you so much for your subscription :)
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He clearly does not understand (and possibly you as well) how High Speed Sync works.Trying to offset the delay of a flash in hopes that one of the shutter curtains does not get seen is not HSS. Visit my channel and watch the video on Understanding Flash Exposure and I have a segment in the video demonstrating how HSS works.
My apologies, I am not trying to seem mean. But many do not understand how HSS works. Most think its just shooting flash faster, and that is wrong. When a flash shoots in HSS, it will actually flash many many times very very fast while both the first and 2nd shutter curtains are moving down the sensor. Ensuring even illumination across the frame. So his little trick is just straight up bad advice from someone who clearly just does not understand how HSS works.. So I am not trying to look like a jerk. I am just pointing out the facts..
Perhaps it is you that doesn't understand what he is doing. He is not using HSS. Watch the video and listen to his explanation. He is setting the flash to full power manual and the camera to TTL matrix metering. The flash at full power burns for the whole duration of the curtain movement and the TTL metering system will see the flash and expose acordingly" the high shutter speed in this type of picture is actually essential to prevent the frame being overpowered by the flash on full power. There is no "Sync" of the rear curtain as you describe. HSS has a limitted shutter speed range slightly above the normal 60 or 125 and requires a modern flash that can do rapid minute flashes. this method simply requires a manual full power flash with a long burn time
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No, not HSS. Recall that both the flash units are set to manual? Meaning he could force his shutter to faster than 1/250 and the flash will still trigger. Theoretically, they are out of sync. That's why he used the longer punch analogy. With the flashes at full power, the flash already starts to fire and light up way before the 1/250s mark. That is why even when shutter at 1/4000, there is still light from the flash getting captured.
Hi Andrew, Thanks for these great videos that you have provided about breaking the Sync speed. Is there a way to calculate the Key light to subject distance using this method or is it just trial and error ? Thanks for your help.
I use nikon d5300 and just bought a godox tt685 and X1T trigger but I cannot set mu shutter speed above 200 like when i use universal trigger. i know because X1T for nikon is support TTL which connect all the dots in the hotshoe. Someone say just cover 2 pin in the hotshoe so that I can go past 200 shutter speed like using universal trigger. But can I get a good shoot without a half black screen with that technic?? Anyone can help? How to use D5300, X1Tn and Godox tt685n to get shutter pas 200 and get perfect image??
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I have a d7200 and I can't change the shutter speed above 1/250 of a second . and it has an x by the number.[ X 1/250 ] it won't go any higher than 1/250th. but it will go lower. the only flash is the built-in flash. How can I get it to fire faster than 1/250th
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would have still captured the flash on the camera or the umbrella, or did you forget the start of the video where you show the flash low power high power LOL CAUGHT you fake
i dont need to google it. I have 2 world class photographers, And pause your video where you hold up the camera to the camera you can see the picture on your camera screen is NOT the same as what you posted after. Its ok there will always be fakes and you are just another
if you don't want to stop down the aperture for DSLRs with no HSS like the nikon D3000 series just use an ND filter and shoot below the sync speed. The flash will illuminate the subject whilst keeping the background properly exposed.
Can you explain it a bit more. How did you make the flashes burst.......? And if your are on full power on the camera mounted flash how did you manage to do HSS? I did'n get that bit at all.
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hi i am using 5d mark iii with yongnuo 600ex rt flash and yonguo yn rt receiver together , can any one say how to use HSS with them , when i am shooting on manual by increasing shutter speed in order to reducing the ambient light also reducing the flash power , so how to fix the problem ?
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does this work On canon DSLR cameras ? After reading the comments, looks like there are more things to do other than just putting flash power to full power ;-)
Sir I have a one requst , Sir I'm using YN560iv (tow flash) both are same. I am using 5D mark iii. I can't take a picture on HSS mode. what is the setting Camera and flash to create HSS ?
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How can you bet the sync speed . When my camera starts to close at 1/200sec how can ya bet that ? I have watched ya videos but don't understand it . I have a 5d3 and 430ex2
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Hi there I really like what you have shown in the Video . But still i m confused could u clear me on this will this work on Nikon d5100 and With any flash that supports Slave mode ?? Do i need to put the flash on camera or i can on cmaera built flash to trigger the other flash ? Thanks:-
Hi Andrew, I have a Nikon D300 and two SB-800. 1. But when I put one speed light on my camera, I can not increase shutter speed beyond sync speed. 2. Only if I keep pop up flash off, I can increase shutter speed, then it does not trigger speed lights in Remote mode. How can I overcome this problem? Thanks
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I just binge watch this guy for straight 2 hours.
He is my spirit animal.
wowwwww! you made our day sir!! thank you :)
😂😂😂 I bet ur feeling great after the good laugh by Andrew FAMOSA 😂😂😂
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You're a GENIUS. Thank you for sharing this with us. I'm using Sony cameras, and I finally got this to work. I have have a Nissin i60A and two off-brand Photoolex M500 flashes as well as the Nissin Air 1 Commander.
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You're a lifesaver man love your videos
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Bruce Lee is my master. I have never met him but I rented his movies many times.
He is definitely a hero to most of us 😍😍😍
I only watched the first few minutes. My flash is broken now, I Bruce Lee'd my speedlight.
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Hi, everyone :)
To make this work here's what you need to do:
1. Flash on lightstand: Remote on SU4 at 1/1 power
2. Flash on camera: 1/1 Full power (on Manual mode, NOT TTL)
3. Camera on MANUAL exposure mode (M)
4. F number on camera: as low as you like
5. ISO: 100 to 200 is good
6. Shutter Speed: 1/thousands so that the photo does not over exposed (I normally meter to -2 on Matrix)
Nice of all of you to drop by and follow my works, thank you
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Thank you so much! ❤ Always fun to learn from you
But for those who like to know WHY this works: You flash in full power should be longer, or same that your cameras fastest mechanical speed=sync-speed. So, if your camears sync is 1/250s, your flash have to keep the light on that time, even if you camera is setted to 1/4000s, as this is just a narrow curtain travellin over the "film-port" on sync-speed. In short, you have to have "slow flash" and that is what you can check from your flash manual, what is the flash-time on full blast.
does high speed sync applies on any camera? i mean i have d5600 and i can't surpass the shutter speed of 200 when my flash is on.
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Awesome. thats working whith nikon sb900+canon580+falcon ayes)
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Very confusing. With SB 900 and hss activated, you can go up to 1/8000 and TTL easily. Why do you have to set on full power.
In the clip you did not explain the mode used for the sb900. TTL remode HSS or SU4 manual
Waiting for urs answer
Andrew Boey, dude you saved me a crap load of money, thanks. I can't believe I never thought of this before. This is good enough to let me turn day to night. I can now overpower the noonday sun with one speedlight and sync multiple lights with no need for triggers and receiver, brilliant, just brilliant. This has proven to be really fantastic, thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you, Craig :) you made my day :)
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Best free lunch ever, RIGHT?
I fucking love this guy! HE IS SO FUCKING AWESOME!
"f*&king thank you" says Andrew Boey. (and He loves you too! :D )
Hi, everyone! Watch this NEW VIDEO now and understand WHY you need to break sync speed. It is NOT merely about turning on your Auto FB (just a means to an end, and NOT the end itself, as you can see). You break sync so that you have an alllllllll new option of shooting in very LOW F number (producing blurry background), yet still not over-exposing your pics and at the same time, allowing you to use ANY studio lights that you already have and NOT being limited to Nikon's highly proprietary CLS system. Enjoy: ruclips.net/video/JflxDO_AvME/видео.html
wooooooow nice, you can high speed without high speed :) is it possible? can I do the same on my Nikon D5200 ?
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This is actually pretty interesting. Yes, if your flash supports HSS it's more convenient to use that (or an ND filter) and yes, this eats LOTS of battery power but it's great to have another trick up your sleeve because you never know what's going to happen tomorrow and as a professional photographer it is your responsibility to make things work.
You said: "if your flash supports HSS it's more convenient to use that (or an ND filter)"
But the fact is, you have to have a flash that supports HSS to do this "trick" anyway, otherwise your camera will never let you select a shutter speed of 1/5000 with the flash attached.
Remember this is NOT Nikon's CLS method, which is a proprietory technology (Not fun).
Flashes that will work on this method would be:
1. Nikon's SB700 (though not power enough), SB800, SB900 & SB910 (all these flashes has SU4 mode on remote)
2. These Flashes won't work: SB600 - cos it ONLY has CLS method.
Canon users, we can get it to work, but not all the time. My trainers and I will experiment and see how we can 'hack' a solution that will give you this similar amazing lighting.
you HAVE to have a camera with HHS or Auto-FP (Nikon)... this "little" bit of info was left OUT of this video for some funny reason..... there is NO WAY to effectively bypass ones shutter sync speed WITHOUT a Higher level cannon or Nikon DSLR using HSS (Cannon) or Auto-FP (Nikon)
Thank you thank you thank you. I appreciate this guy's demonstration, but that's the whole damn point of having that option on cameras to begin with.
Where exactly is the hack again? Not asking you.
sorry but you are wrong..there is a way
I think this is HyperSync, not High Speed Sync. That's why the power has to be at full power. If it were HSS, then you could use other power levels.
If you have a flash lying around, it's worth trying.
What is *CANNON?*
I think he was useing a nikon D7000
Quick ? what do you recommend if you are in bright sunlight. You didn't mention that if you are using filters. Can you explain this in your syn method. Enjoyed the info keep up good work
You can also achieve the same effect-using an - ND1.2 - 4/f Stop Neutral
Density Filter if you normally set your flash exposure to F/11 you
would then set your aperture to F/2.8 when using a - 4/f Stop Neutral
Density Filter. This gives you exactly the same exposure but
significantly less depth of field.
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what speedlight unit did u use?
which speedlight units do you recommend to get this efect on canon?
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Wow thanks 💞💞
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@@farahn63 ❤
No, not HSS. Still syncing at low speed. He is maxing out the flash intensity to force more light through when shutter speed is high. The penalty is using a lot more battery power to achieve the same. The output is nice but not neutral enough for me. Still it is a technique to get bokeh when HSS is not available.
Holy crap, I can’t believe this actually works! I’m gonna go back and review this a half a dozen times just to believe what I’m seeing. These flashes don’t come cheap but they’re far less expensive than a megawatt high speed sync ProFoto strobe system.
Great video👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽... I’m a subscriber now.
Glad to know that sir :) thank youuuu
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hi, another beginner question - i have Nikon d3300 and two speedlights: TRIOPO TR 560EX and cheeper VILTROX JY680A;
should i make all this tricks shown in the video above?
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You rock especially with your Kun fu skills. Well explained. Thanks man!
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How do you increase shutter speed though?
My camera doesn't go higher than 1/200 (manual mode). D5300
Have u ever wondered,
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This is funniest tutorial I've ever seen!
Brandon Rudich why? Is it not possible?
This guy is maybe the best around...
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Hello again, i have a nikon... can you do HSS with one SB flash? Have you ever used a third party flash like vivitar for HSS? is HSS necessary for portrait shots?
Remember you never told them how to enable hss on their flash, maybe thats where this tut should have started!
Why, as this is not of that at all. As you now, 10 years later know...
i just tried it with my nissin di 622 mark ii with my canon 60D and it works but sometimes the shutter speed is back to 1/250. is there any solution for this?
Nice trick Andriew Boey !. It's a kind of Super Sync with speedy lights. It can provide a bit more flash to subject distance range than HSS alone. But it needs HSS between on camera flash and remote flash, and the last one must be at full power. Really nice !. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼.
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love the kung fu bit :D great video!
why THANK YOU :) hope you have subscribed :)
The kung fu is surely one of a kind 😂😂😂
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can you do this with a non hss speedlight?
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A bit of misunderstanding and misinformation on how this really works.
The on camera flash does NOT need to be on full power (but it may be needed to trigger the remote flash if the remote flash sensor is pointed in the wrong direction and/or it is very bright). It is there SIMPLY to fool the camera into using the different internal flash timing settings from HSS on flashes which are set to *not* use HSS. The Matrix metering mode on the camera is also not mandatory, TTL is not being used, so since you are using manual flash, it doesn't matter what the camera "sees", you decide how your background and foreground appear via ISO, aperture, shutter speed and flash.
Back in April, 2012, I describe this in detail here on Yourtube, do a search for "High Speed Hack Trick". :)
Today, we use high end triggers like the PW ControlTL units that take advantage of this technology and call it HyperSync. They also add adjustability to maximize the power output to the flash to shutter timing event and a ton more features. It is also possible to do with other basic triggers like the Plus II, but the triggers have to be fairly quick, not all triggers will work properly. We also use studio strobes so that even more power can be output and we can start to easily overpower the sun without needing tools like ND filters that can introduce artifacts into the shot.
There are many ways to accomplish similar effects, and it makes a great tool for photographers that like to shoot outside.
Thank-you for your video!
can this work with a sony camera? or do i need the auto fp setting?
Why not try it and see? The test takes like 5 minutes of your time. :)
Jerry P.H. I've tried and I don't know what the key step is that I am missing. I've watched your video before his as well, and to be honest, there were a lot of steps that confused me.
I can not find quick and simple instructions anywhere :/ lol
Jerry P.H. Is it that ONE flash MUST have hss?
Ryan Garcia When you looked at my video of the High Speed Hack Trick (here at RUclips under the JerryPHcom name), what part confused you? And to answer your question, yes, you need a flash that can use HSS, not to use HSS, but to fool the camera into using the HSS timing tables so that you can get properly lit frames. Best way is to use wireless triggers. The cheap ones won't work well, but something like PocketWizards and other faster triggers will work. Again, the on camera flash HAS to be TTL/HSS compatible. Does it 100% work on your camera? I have no way to know, I am a Nikon person.
Why don't you use ITTL? Set E/C to -1 ev and increase flash exposure to +1 ev. Set wider aperture f2.8 and allow high speed syncho on the camera (Nikon). Let ITTL work for you.
Thanks for the video - my question is how do you get the flash exposure correct with this method, since you're setting the flash at full power and the aperture wide open? Do you experiment with the flash distance to the model? Also, what is the reason the controller flash has to also be on full power? Thanks! I love your videos!
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@@missfarah4700 Wrong ansver...
I use nikon sb700 to broke speed sync with my nikon d7200 i make the fp320 and make a speed light at remote mode with su4 but when i shhot uo to 1/320 its black
Hello, a very interesting episode, but in Canon when I put a lamp on the camera, which does not have HSS, it automatically sets up the synchronization time to 1 / 250s. what to do in this case?
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Cry
Just kidding. I use a godox X trigger and set it together with my camera with HSS in group A. But there's no flash receiving this signal, only another flash trigger on top of that one, triggering my external flash with its dumb signal that is not smart enough to be detected by the stubborn bossy camera who doesn't know its place.
That is the problem on many cameras, if they do not support high speed flash.
I'm seeing alot of negative comments. The guy takes the time to try and teach you something that actually works (with the correct setup per your equipment) and you throw around insults.
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Hey brother, you are amazing. I was wondering if you have any experience with fujifilm cameras?
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This is a highly unusual and different method of addressing this shutter speed and flash issue. If I am understanding correctly, one needs to use a VERY high shutter speed, one which clears the entire sensor in about the same time as the flash duration. I am thinking this would not work well at about 1/500. Also, some cameras won't allow the shutter to be set faster than 1/200 or 1/250 if there is a flash on the hot shoe. How does one avoid that issue?
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Liu Kang wins
Trying to set up 3 flashes and it's not moving pass 1/250th, can anyone help?
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Hi I just bought my first speedlite,
so what should I put my Speedlite on for top power for my Yongnuo YN 565EX .
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1/1
Does this mean that we can only use this method using 2 or more flashes? And single on-camera flash alone will not poduce the same background-blur output?
Have u ever wondered,
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Love your style of Teaching..great videos Thanks
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So to be clear, the flash that was firing at the model behind the umbrella was in manual mode as well and was on which mode?? Receiver mode waiting to "see the light" from the flash on the camera in IR triggered mode? or what exactly? thanks
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nice video you just got another subscriber... keep up the good work
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This method not working for my NikonD5300
Man I have King Fu knowledge now!! Heck yeah brother. Thanks..
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That didn't work at all on my end... You should talk about the curtain effect. However, i got the same exact result using the 160 at full power. Maybe it's the camera I don't know... Time for an A7iii I guess
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There's no trick here, he's just using an HSS flash. :)
no trick eh?
then watch the other video which Sync was broken with normal legacy studio flashes... u will like it, trust me :)
Its really crazy ..the comments you have from people who have not tried it or did not listen correctly to your directions !!!
I had seen your video about 4 years ago .I used an old olympus camera and two old sunpak flashes ..in fact for the second I used one of those vintage light triggers to get it to go off with the one on the camera . It worked perfect ..and the olympus is not HSS compatible . since then I did buy HSS flashes and you can not tell the difference ! I will try it with the strobes this summer as per your second video :) Thanks for these great videos . INfact here is the link to the first test shot I had tried with your method... I also had some photographer with a huge ego tell me you can tell the difference ..that HSS would of been more superior ::) oi67.tinypic.com/2w2397s.jpg
+Aperture Shots wow. reading your comments and seeing your pics totally made my day sir. so sorry it took us a while to reply to you. you are totally true and right abt wht u just said up there. thank you sooooo much.
i did it and both flashes were vintage and NOT Hss flashes
Keep making them ! Many of us appreciate your knowledge ! I thank you greatly !
¿es posible realizar esto con una cámara Nikon D5500 y un speed ligth sb-800?
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you save my life thank you master :)
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A pop-up flash can control 2 sets of flashes, while SU-800 (trigger) can control 3 sets.
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I subscribed after the word KUNGFU!!!!
Joey Bumbum hahahaha! good one there, sir!
the stupid shouting made me unsubscribe
Hello can i do that with my sony a6000 using SB 900 and SB700 and one more Sony flash to trigge at hight speed ?
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when you put the hat on i nearly lost it LMAO
hahahahahaha! me too! every single time, eh??!! hahahahahaha. Thanks for dropping by here :)
Andrew Boey I was laughing so hard. I had to watch the movie again. These video's are really nice to watch.
hahahaha! thank you, glad that i manage to cheer you up :)
So, all the flashes need to be set to full power? What setting needs to be set within the camera?
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For blurring the background in daylight using larger apertures like 1.4-2.8, I would use a variable ND filter for around $30. By stepping down 5 stops you can bring the shutter speed from 1/8000 down to 1/250. Am I missing something?
Yaghoub Soltanpour that's true but you need to increase the flash power very high cause the ND filter will cut alot from the flash power
Hey thanks allot for this! I have a d5100 Nikon body, and Yongnuo 568ex flash.This is a great little camera but has no HSS. So this work around is exactly what I was looking for!
What is the trick?
To use flash as trigger and an off-camera flash that both support High Speed Sync? This is not trick. This is something "by the book" and also expensive (HSS flashes are not cheap).
Trick would be to present an alternative to the regular ways for HSS that would save us money.
NEEWER® NW680/TT680 Speedlite Flash E TTL about 50€ on Amazon...
Actually, it is a bit of a trick. Using HSS, you lose anywhere from 2 to 3.5 stops of light compared to using this "trick".
The off-camera flash does not need to be high speed sync to work, that is the trick.
Actually, the trick is to get the camera to capture *more* light on the frame than when using HSS. HSS typically costs you 2-3.5 stops of light. This trick loses a lot less when shutter speeds exceed your max sync speed.
Jerry P.H.
Jerry, you TRULY nailed it. Looks like you truly understand the difference between slit-flashing and sensor-flooding. We have used this method even with normal NONE HSS light and even those big huge Elinchrome lights... THIS TRICK,.. WORK :) THank you, Jerry for dropping by. Always happy to see viewers who understand how things work before they unload their loud-
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Can you just put a ND filter on the lens to slow down the shutter speed?
was the kung fu necessary?
Of course! :)
hahahaha :) i feel i'm missing something :)
so no need to set the complicated TTL thing! just use the highest power and it will work?
another question please, i always people talk about sync speed when using flashes, how about studio strobes they don't do the same problem?
Thank you
of course! Now you know why we need the KUNG FU part? Yes... no TTL :) Full power it is :)
Thank you very much I'm a subscriber now...thank you for your tutorials
Thank you.... and sorry about the kung fu part... it was just to help viewers 'remember' key parts of the video (which is 'full power' = longer punch). I hope you have fun trying it and thank you so much for your subscription :)
dude you are awesome! Will this work on strobes and flash combination?
Yes. It will!! Look for my 2nd video on this, sir
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You neglect to mention that you need a flash capable of HSS.
No, not needed, but camera cabable that you need. Othervise you camera is turning itself to sync-speed.
Can this work if you are shooting inside for a head shot?
Just go buy some quality 3 to 6 stop ND filters or a flash that supports HSS.. No need to over complicate things..
Joe, I don't think he is over complicating things, he is just showing a different way of achieving HSS, and Bruce Lee was a nice touch!
He clearly does not understand (and possibly you as well) how High Speed Sync works.Trying to offset the delay of a flash in hopes that one of the shutter curtains does not get seen is not HSS. Visit my channel and watch the video on Understanding Flash Exposure and I have a segment in the video demonstrating how HSS works.
Chill out Joe! Don't be mean.
My apologies, I am not trying to seem mean. But many do not understand how HSS works. Most think its just shooting flash faster, and that is wrong. When a flash shoots in HSS, it will actually flash many many times very very fast while both the first and 2nd shutter curtains are moving down the sensor. Ensuring even illumination across the frame. So his little trick is just straight up bad advice from someone who clearly just does not understand how HSS works.. So I am not trying to look like a jerk. I am just pointing out the facts..
Perhaps it is you that doesn't understand what he is doing. He is not using HSS. Watch the video and listen to his explanation. He is setting the flash to full power manual and the camera to TTL matrix metering. The flash at full power burns for the whole duration of the curtain movement and the TTL metering system will see the flash and expose acordingly" the high shutter speed in this type of picture is actually essential to prevent the frame being overpowered by the flash on full power.
There is no "Sync" of the rear curtain as you describe. HSS has a limitted shutter speed range slightly above the normal 60 or 125 and requires a modern flash that can do rapid minute flashes. this method simply requires a manual full power flash with a long burn time
i think its just to make sure that the light from the on camera flash will trigger the IR in the off camera flashes
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Is it possible to trigger a speedlight with the pop up flash in a sunny day?
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but what if your just using one of those yongnuo triggers with yongnuo flashes? Can this still be achieved?
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No, not HSS. Recall that both the flash units are set to manual? Meaning he could force his shutter to faster than 1/250 and the flash will still trigger. Theoretically, they are out of sync. That's why he used the longer punch analogy. With the flashes at full power, the flash already starts to fire and light up way before the 1/250s mark. That is why even when shutter at 1/4000, there is still light from the flash getting captured.
In that case make sure the flash is in manual mode at full power.
Hi Andrew,
Thanks for these great videos that you have provided about breaking the Sync speed.
Is there a way to calculate the Key light to subject distance using this method or is it just trial and error ?
Thanks for your help.
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I use nikon d5300 and just bought a godox tt685 and X1T trigger but I cannot set mu shutter speed above 200 like when i use universal trigger. i know because X1T for nikon is support TTL which connect all the dots in the hotshoe. Someone say just cover 2 pin in the hotshoe so that I can go past 200 shutter speed like using universal trigger. But can I get a good shoot without a half black screen with that technic?? Anyone can help? How to use D5300, X1Tn and Godox tt685n to get shutter pas 200 and get perfect image??
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I have a d7200 and I can't change the shutter speed above 1/250 of a second . and it has an x by the number.[ X 1/250 ] it won't go any higher than 1/250th. but it will go lower. the only flash is the built-in flash. How can I get it to fire faster than 1/250th
Built in flash won't go higher..I tested..you have buy some external flash
Watch this on 2021 🤣🤣 nice hack
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video was filmed at 25 frames per second... flash was 1/5000 secs.... so go figure why the video camera was unable to capture the flash, Sriram. ;)
would have still captured the flash on the camera or the umbrella, or did you forget the start of the video where you show the flash low power high power LOL CAUGHT you fake
25 Frames PER SECOND.... now i am laughing :)
google "Flash t.5" and "SB-800 Flash Duration" someday :)
i dont need to google it. I have 2 world class photographers, And pause your video where you hold up the camera to the camera you can see the picture on your camera screen is NOT the same as what you posted after. Its ok there will always be fakes and you are just another
OK :)
What if a camera e.g. Nikon D5500 does not have HSS at all? I've tried your method, the pictures come out completely black over 1/200...:(
Yes same way I tried on D3300
sir if i take a photo on full power of flash 1/1 then any problem occur to my flashgun please guide thank you
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if you don't want to stop down the aperture for DSLRs with no HSS like the nikon D3000 series just use an ND filter and shoot below the sync speed. The flash will illuminate the subject whilst keeping the background properly exposed.
Can you explain it a bit more. How did you make the flashes burst.......? And if your are on full power on the camera mounted flash how did you manage to do HSS? I did'n get that bit at all.
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Sir does your camera set to manual mode?
You missed something..This is applicable only for flash with hss..
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Couldn't get it to work on my Nikon D5500. Camera will not go above 1/200th with a flash or a remote attached.
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What if you use remotes, will this work the same?
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hi
i am using 5d mark iii with yongnuo 600ex rt flash and yonguo yn rt receiver together , can any one say how to use HSS with them , when i am shooting on manual by increasing shutter speed in order to reducing the ambient light also reducing the flash power , so how to fix the problem ?
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does this work On canon DSLR cameras ? After reading the comments, looks like there are more things to do other than just putting flash power to full power ;-)
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Sir I have a one requst , Sir I'm using YN560iv (tow flash) both are same. I am using 5D mark iii. I can't take a picture on HSS mode. what is the setting Camera and flash to create HSS ?
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Actually while last click the flash not fire :-)...very funny video. anyhow i will try this :-)
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How can you bet the sync speed . When my camera starts to close at 1/200sec how can ya bet that ? I have watched ya videos but don't understand it . I have a 5d3 and 430ex2
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yes you can, and thats what most photographers do. i do that too. careful though, certain ND filters have a color cast. get a really good ND filter.
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I have a question. If we use radio controlled flash commanders and receivers, do you still have to have flashes set to full power?
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I'm on a 5D mark IV using Neewer flashes and this unfortunately didn't work.
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holy shit, liu kang retired from MK and became a photographer
😂🤣🤣 lol... Good one Edgar Q...
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Sorry - my Pentax camera will not fire the flash at any speed beyond 1/160 sec. No can do.
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Can u please explain..i cant understand
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Hi there
I really like what you have shown in the Video . But still i m confused could u clear me on this
will this work on Nikon d5100 and With any flash that supports Slave mode ?? Do i need to put the flash on camera or i can on cmaera built flash to trigger the other flash ?
Thanks:-
Hi Andrew, I have a Nikon D300 and two SB-800.
1. But when I put one speed light on my camera, I can not increase shutter speed beyond sync speed.
2. Only if I keep pop up flash off, I can increase shutter speed, then it does not trigger speed lights in Remote mode.
How can I overcome this problem?
Thanks
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