The thing that makes your tutorials so valuable is the fact that you repeat the point many times, from different perspectives (camera, flash, and settings) AND you tie them all together. Great job teaching a pretty complex concept!
Really accurate and straightforward information for someone who understands flash, but not HSS. I wish someone would have it explained it to me this way when I was learning it years ago.
I owe my ability to properly use speedlight flashes to you. Over 10 yrs ago I found your tutorials and learned to bounce etc. You are a great teacher and I refer ppl to you that are wanting to learn flash. Thank you so much!
Ah ha! Thank you. That's clever. I've never heard of the P.A.I.D acronym and f11 for 10ft is a great place to start. I'm off to memorise some numbers, and practice. Thank you.
Sir many many thanks for teach mi Flash distance my grandfather was photographer 1947 my father was photographer and now i m photographer but 30 year my caryer first time see your vidio and understand what is flash distance
Just a quick word, I have cracked it! setting for HSS on my Lumix FZ1000 II, I had to do a full reset on the camera as I had most things turned off and thought it may be impacting other settings, It comes under fill in flash and second-curtain sync with mechanical shutter, Tried and tested it and it works at all shutter speeds up to 1/4000, unfortunately the Lumix manual is very vague and not very helpful at all with this and more to do with trial and error and sheer bloody mindedness! Once again thanks for your comments and keep up the good work and if anyone has one of these cameras, now you know how it's done! Now I can go ahead and upgrade to the V1 flash for a lot more power!
Hi Neil. Just to say a HUGE thank You for this tutorial. You been my Mentor for years as I bought your lessons under Craftsy now Bluprint. You have been of GREAT help to me on my journey of photography and to You I salute Sir😇
Thank you! Excellent presentation! I remember these basics when I first was learning about the f16 rule and flash guide numbers. I remember using strobes back in the day they were fully manual. So you had to know the guide number, the ISO, and through experience you can just know what the F stop output of the flash would be at any given distance. Peace, Sal 💪🏻📸
I know this is an older video, but I just came across it. I have had Godox flashguns for a few years, and I didn't even know about the distance scale on the display....very enlightening! Thank you for such a great tutorial.
hi there thanks for your video i have got an outdoor shoot coming up and i have been practising with my son. now i understand whats happening and how to control my exposure better thank you very much
Thanks for your Videos, Neil. I've been shooting since the mid 1970's and watching your videos, I'm learning things I just never knew. Really awesome! I do have a conundrum, though and would appreciate your covering it. I have many speedlights including some original 285's that I still use for real estate photography, to light background spaces and rooms, calculating their own light. Still works. My usual kit is 3 YN968n speedlights. They all talk to each other of course, but I also have 2 YN 622n trigger/receivers and a 622n TX trigger to use if everything else is engaged. I also have studio strobes with battery packs that I use for Studio and on locations where lots of light is needed. If I use any of the YN 622's to fire my totally MANUAL Neewer/Flashpoint 600ws studio strobes, they surprisingly work in HSS right up to 1/8000. I've often done that where even on 1/32 power, they are just too strong. I don't understand how that can happen and just wonder if you could explain it. Thanks in advance ...in case you do.
Hi there ... I suspect what is happening that you are seeing the tail-end of a slow decay of the flash burst ... and then even at fat shutter speeds (while not even being in HSS mode), you get fairly even flash exposure across the frame. Check out this article for an explanation of what I think you are seeing here: neilvn.com/tangents/syncing-at-higher-than-max-flash-sync-speed/
Brilliant tutorial - well presented and you speak clearly. A great teacher! Now I just wish i could remember it all when i am taking photos. I tend to panic and my brain switches off - more practice needed.
The best part then about this tutorial, is that what happens with your flash and camera, is repeatable. Camera in hand, you can go over it a few times until it all falls into place.
Hi Neil, your intro was so true but more importantly your tutorial on this aspect of photography was the best I’ve seen yet. Your teaching just suited me, others may prefer other styles of course. What I liked was the degree and effort you went to ins-till understanding and knowledge in a pedagogical way. I’m a subscriber and want to say thanks, and do take care.
I use an EX 430 III RT with a guide number of 43m (do not know how much it is in feet) with my M50 mark II. What about FEL? I founf out that TTL gets the exposure spot on if I use FEL with TTL.
@@neilvn the M50 mark II tends to select a higher power output in darker scenarios and a lower power in better lit scenarios (with respect to the desired output power). The FEL preflash gives a consistent base before I use FE compensation. I guess your professional grade cameras are equipped with better computations of the required power or it could be the flash I have was optimized for DSLR use rather than mirrorless.
Thank you, Neil. Understanding that shutter speed reenters the equation when using HSS is a revelation! In the spirit of reexamining assumptions: does the sensor's crop factor have to be considered when setting the zoom on the flashgun? i.e. If I'm I'm adding direct fill flash to an ambient capture when shooting a 25mm lens on MFT should I zoom the flash to 50mm to cover the equivalent field of view? Or, should it be set to the actual focal length of 25mm?
You can set the flashhead's zoom angle to match that of the crop-sensor focal length. For simplicity of calculations, you could perhaps just stay to the actual focal length.
When you are using a softbox or bouncing your flash, or doing anything else but using the flash directly forward, then obviously the distance scale on the flash is meaningless. You will then have to find another way to calculate the correct exposure. For manual flash, the simplest would be to use a handheld meter. You can also use the histogram method and see where any white tones spike. You can also just look at the LCD preview to see if the exposure looks good. (For TTL flash, you rely on the automatic metering, and adjust the FEC accordingly.)
Neil, thanks for your great tutorial on high speed flash sync. Am impressed with your portfolio. Am curious as to how u got into photography, Seems like u have a disciplined approach. Formal studies and/or OJT? 😎😎
I worked as a television broadcast engineering tech for 15 years, so there is that analytical side where things just have to make sense for me to really grasp it on a deeper level.
@@neilvn Thanks. That makes lots of sense. In the mideighties I was at the Banff Centre in Canada in the Electronic Film Media Program (Advanced Television Production). Afterwards, when I returned back to Alaska, I had high hopes of getting into the PBS Station, but never had any luck. So anyhow, I can appreciate your professional background in television broadcast engineering. 😎😎
With Godox V860iiC I watched this great video setting as per shown. My distance display will not indicate anything at all. I see the scale but no mark or display of distance. Any idea what might be happening? Thanks
Thanks Neil for simplifying the flash exposition with the f11, 10 feet rules. Also when shooting outdoor in day light, I tend to use ND filters to bring the ambient shutter speed down into flash synch zone.
Sir you are good teacher My question onse again when i use speed light on camera it sow distance but when use triger no sow distance i have d 750 Nikon with sb 5ooo flash use with outdoor at ss 1000 f2.8 light is no proper on the subject at ss 250 ok How to measure distance
This is where it becomes necessary to memorize a few settings, and then apply the same when the flash is used off-camera (without modifiers). For example, if you knew what the flash's output (as aperture) is for a specific distance / ISO combination -- it would be the same when you use a trigger. And from there you can interpolate for other apertures, and other flash power settings. Just memorize 1, or 2, or even three combinations of settings.
What, I think is another thing that you need to put into the equation, is modifiers. They rob out more power from the flash don't they? So that is something else to calculate.
Modifiers obviously do affect output. This tutorial is concerned with HSS though - and in considering HSS vs Normal Flash Sync, the modifier doesn’t affect one differently than the other.
The flash output doesn't change whether it is a brighter or darker environment ... HOWEVER, since there is more available light to contend with in a brighter scenario (like sunlight), it does affect the overall exposure. At some settings, the available light will act as a kind of fill light (when the flash exposure dominates), or the available light and flash will be about equal ... or the flash will act as a fill light, if you have the available light as the main source of light. There's a wide range of possibilities there in how you balance flash and ambient light. But your flash output remains the same.
Some cameras have a way that you can lock the TTL flash exposure. Very handy if you have the correct exposure, and don't want it to change for subsequent photos.
Hello Neil You said leave me any question and you would be happy to help. So I am asking. I am not sure you can help me on this one because there are so many variables. Your tutorial was great. It is repeatable but my situation I am trying to figure out before going into the field to test and come up with a repeatable way to get correctly exposed images in manual mode with flash. First I would like to use High Speed Sync to photograph fast moving objects like birds or animals using a shutter speed of 1000 to 2500.. I want to just use the flash as a fill, not as the main flash. (I know this can be done, I have seen videos and websites that describe the process with results but not any information or details on flash or camera setting, seems like they are guessing and or trial and error) Using a long lens say 400 2.8 to 600 f4 with 1.4 or 2x extenders also using a product called a better beamer. mountainnature.com/Photography/techniques/flash/betterbeamer.asp digitalbirdphotography.com/4.3.html Fresnel lenses can increase a flash up to 2 stops of light. The hard part is up to 2 stops, there is nothing set in stone and many variables. You can not readthe back of the flash to determine correct exposure and birds in flight move fast and if they travel towards you things change quickly as far a change in distance. I did email people using this technique but only one response and they said basically (guess) trial and error. I would like to make this a little more consistent or repeatable. I wish there was and automatic way to do this but if there was, anyone could do this. Any help would be appreciated.
With so many variables thrown into the mix, you really are mostly down to trial and error. Especially since guessing the distance at which a bird is flying, is difficult. Sorry I can't offer a more specific algorithm here.
@@neilvn So I got another reply back from someone that uses this technique for birds in flight. First let me say your video did help. If the Fresnel lens gives you back 2 stops, and using high speed sync takes away 2 stops it should be a wash and I am right back to the beginning of your video with the sunny 16 rule. I was told that using the better beamer was to fill in shadows, that is all. So in your calculations of distance error to the longer distance, worse case you don't fill in the shadows. I if you are too hot you will blow out highlights which is worse but even then you may be able to recover highlights in post when shooting raw. Manufacturers should come up with an automatic way to do this with either preflash or distance with metering. Seems like a no brainer to me. Maybe a 3rd party strobe manufacture will put a laser on the strobe that could measure distance. My old Nikon SB-28 had a non ttl auto mode that measured light when it fired and the sensor on the flash would automatically cut off the flash during x-sync flash when it sensed the right amount of light had been flashes. Again thanks, At least I have a starting point and who knows it may be constant.
The thing that makes your tutorials so valuable is the fact that you repeat the point many times, from different perspectives (camera, flash, and settings) AND you tie them all together. Great job teaching a pretty complex concept!
Thank you very much
What a great tutorial. Thanks for making this video.
Too good. Thanks buddy.
Mr. Niekerk uses his intellect more than the norm.
Thank you that was the clearest explanation I have heard
Really accurate and straightforward information for someone who understands flash, but not HSS. I wish someone would have it explained it to me this way when I was learning it years ago.
I owe my ability to properly use speedlight flashes to you. Over 10 yrs ago I found your tutorials and learned to bounce etc. You are a great teacher and I refer ppl to you that are wanting to learn flash. Thank you so much!
Nicole Cole - Thank you for the kind words.
Amazing Teadhing Video, so much I never had a clue about Speed Lights. Thank You so much.
Your videos are simple, easy to understand reminders of the basics....Thank you!
Ah ha! Thank you. That's clever. I've never heard of the P.A.I.D acronym and f11 for 10ft is a great place to start. I'm off to memorise some numbers, and practice. Thank you.
Sir many many thanks for teach mi
Flash distance my grandfather was photographer 1947 my father was photographer and now i m photographer but 30 year my caryer first time see your vidio and understand what is flash distance
Good timing Neil. I have just started playing with flash and your superb teaching technique will help me a great deal. Many thanks.
Excellent job at explaining HSS.. Your explanations are very easy to follow and understand and you're an outstanding instructor..
Thank you, I've been struggling with flash for some time, your explanation made it all click into place for me.
Great one Neil.
No I understand guide numbers.
We’ll explained!!!
William
What a great tutorial based on why's and how's
Just a quick word, I have cracked it! setting for HSS on my Lumix FZ1000 II, I had to do a full reset on the camera as I had most things turned off and thought it may be impacting other settings, It comes under fill in flash and second-curtain sync with mechanical shutter, Tried and tested it and it works at all shutter speeds up to 1/4000, unfortunately the Lumix manual is very vague and not very helpful at all with this and more to do with trial and error and sheer bloody mindedness! Once again thanks for your comments and keep up the good work and if anyone has one of these cameras, now you know how it's done! Now I can go ahead and upgrade to the V1 flash for a lot more power!
Hi Neil. Just to say a HUGE thank You for this tutorial. You been my Mentor for years as I bought your lessons under Craftsy now Bluprint. You have been of GREAT help to me on my journey of photography and to You I salute Sir😇
thank you Neil .South-African residing in the middle east . Lekkerrrrrrrrrrrr
Very helpful. Clear explanation. Manythanks
Thank you, Neil!
My best gadget is a black foamy thing! :)
This is great stuff! Not too many people use the GN is sadness . Thanks for sharing
This is so helpful to my photography journey thank you very much sir
Thank you! Excellent presentation! I remember these basics when I first was learning about the f16 rule and flash guide numbers. I remember using strobes back in the day they were fully manual. So you had to know the guide number, the ISO, and through experience you can just know what the F stop output of the flash would be at any given distance. Peace, Sal 💪🏻📸
Excellent explanation on Flash light technics. Would have to rewatch this to put into practice.
I know this is an older video, but I just came across it. I have had Godox flashguns for a few years, and I didn't even know about the distance scale on the display....very enlightening! Thank you for such a great tutorial.
Great video Neil. As someone who's been using flash for more than a decade, even I picked up a couple of things I didn’t realise.
Realmente é a melhor e mais completa explicação sobre HSS que eu já vi... obrigado, Neil... abraços.
Very helpful and well explained. Thank you so much for sharing. Would love to see more videos on different aspects of flash photography.
Neil I love your blog and your sharing in these videos - thanks so much!
Your videos are all excellent! Thank You!
Thank you very much Neil, I find this information very helpful indeed.
Good to hear - I was concerned that the video would be too long.
This is really amazing. Thanks for sharing all this knowledge.
hi there thanks for your video i have got an outdoor shoot coming up and i have been practising with my son. now i understand whats happening and how to control my exposure better thank you very much
Thanks for your Videos, Neil. I've been shooting since the mid 1970's and watching your videos, I'm learning things I just never knew. Really awesome!
I do have a conundrum, though and would appreciate your covering it.
I have many speedlights including some original 285's that I still use for real estate photography, to light background spaces and rooms, calculating their own light. Still works.
My usual kit is 3 YN968n speedlights. They all talk to each other of course, but I also have 2 YN 622n trigger/receivers and a 622n TX trigger to use if everything else is engaged.
I also have studio strobes with battery packs that I use for Studio and on locations where lots of light is needed.
If I use any of the YN 622's to fire my totally MANUAL Neewer/Flashpoint 600ws studio strobes, they surprisingly work in HSS right up to 1/8000. I've often done that where even on 1/32 power, they are just too strong. I don't understand how that can happen and just wonder if you could explain it. Thanks in advance ...in case you do.
Hi there ... I suspect what is happening that you are seeing the tail-end of a slow decay of the flash burst ... and then even at fat shutter speeds (while not even being in HSS mode), you get fairly even flash exposure across the frame.
Check out this article for an explanation of what I think you are seeing here:
neilvn.com/tangents/syncing-at-higher-than-max-flash-sync-speed/
Brilliant tutorial - well presented and you speak clearly. A great teacher! Now I just wish i could remember it all when i am taking photos. I tend to panic and my brain switches off - more practice needed.
The best part then about this tutorial, is that what happens with your flash and camera, is repeatable. Camera in hand, you can go over it a few times until it all falls into place.
Wonderfully concise tutorial, thank you Neil
Thanks Neil ..This was MOST needed in my case
Peter Betts Thank you for the support
Hi Neil, your intro was so true but more importantly your tutorial on this aspect of photography was the best I’ve seen yet. Your teaching just suited me, others may prefer other styles of course. What I liked was the degree and effort you went to ins-till understanding and knowledge in a pedagogical way. I’m a subscriber and want to say thanks, and do take care.
Why this video isn't more popular, I have no idea. Great tutorial
no show
your voice so sweet i love it and information u give its easy
omg, i love you. thank you for this!
I use an EX 430 III RT with a guide number of 43m (do not know how much it is in feet) with my M50 mark II. What about FEL? I founf out that TTL gets the exposure spot on if I use FEL with TTL.
I don't use FEL, but if the technique works for you in getting consistent exposures, definitely use it.
@@neilvn the M50 mark II tends to select a higher power output in darker scenarios and a lower power in better lit scenarios (with respect to the desired output power). The FEL preflash gives a consistent base before I use FE compensation. I guess your professional grade cameras are equipped with better computations of the required power or it could be the flash I have was optimized for DSLR use rather than mirrorless.
Thank you, Neil. Understanding that shutter speed reenters the equation when using HSS is a revelation! In the spirit of reexamining assumptions: does the sensor's crop factor have to be considered when setting the zoom on the flashgun? i.e. If I'm I'm adding direct fill flash to an ambient capture when shooting a 25mm lens on MFT should I zoom the flash to 50mm to cover the equivalent field of view? Or, should it be set to the actual focal length of 25mm?
You can set the flashhead's zoom angle to match that of the crop-sensor focal length. For simplicity of calculations, you could perhaps just stay to the actual focal length.
Sir plz tell how to measure distance when use soft box and when i bonce flash
When you are using a softbox or bouncing your flash, or doing anything else but using the flash directly forward, then obviously the distance scale on the flash is meaningless.
You will then have to find another way to calculate the correct exposure. For manual flash, the simplest would be to use a handheld meter. You can also use the histogram method and see where any white tones spike. You can also just look at the LCD preview to see if the exposure looks good.
(For TTL flash, you rely on the automatic metering, and adjust the FEC accordingly.)
Neil, thanks for your great tutorial on high speed flash sync. Am impressed with your portfolio. Am curious as to how u got into photography, Seems like u have a disciplined approach. Formal studies and/or OJT? 😎😎
I worked as a television broadcast engineering tech for 15 years, so there is that analytical side where things just have to make sense for me to really grasp it on a deeper level.
@@neilvn Thanks. That makes lots of sense. In the mideighties I was at the Banff Centre in Canada in the Electronic Film Media Program (Advanced Television Production). Afterwards, when I returned back to Alaska, I had high hopes of getting into the PBS Station, but never had any luck. So anyhow, I can appreciate your professional background in television broadcast engineering. 😎😎
With Godox V860iiC I watched this great video setting as per shown. My distance display will not indicate anything at all. I see the scale but no mark or display of distance. Any idea what might be happening? Thanks
I can with near certainty say that's because your flash is in a bounce or semi-bounce position instead of straight ahead.
thanks Neil ... you were 100% correct about why I was not seeing the distance and graphic. Love your videos.
Thanks Neil for simplifying the flash exposition with the f11, 10 feet rules. Also when shooting outdoor in day light, I tend to use ND filters to bring the ambient shutter speed down into flash synch zone.
Basem Barakat - that makes good sense.
f11_10 feet magic number !
Sir you are good teacher
My question onse again when i use speed light on camera it sow distance but when use triger no sow distance i have d 750 Nikon with sb 5ooo flash use with outdoor at ss 1000 f2.8 light is no proper on the subject at ss 250 ok
How to measure distance
This is where it becomes necessary to memorize a few settings, and then apply the same when the flash is used off-camera (without modifiers).
For example, if you knew what the flash's output (as aperture) is for a specific distance / ISO combination -- it would be the same when you use a trigger. And from there you can interpolate for other apertures, and other flash power settings.
Just memorize 1, or 2, or even three combinations of settings.
What, I think is another thing that you need to put into the equation, is modifiers. They rob out more power from the flash don't they? So that is something else to calculate.
Modifiers obviously do affect output. This tutorial is concerned with HSS though - and in considering HSS vs Normal Flash Sync, the modifier doesn’t affect one differently than the other.
This range meter in M mode on flash is different in sunlight and in a dark environment or it's equally approximate?
The flash output doesn't change whether it is a brighter or darker environment ... HOWEVER, since there is more available light to contend with in a brighter scenario (like sunlight), it does affect the overall exposure. At some settings, the available light will act as a kind of fill light (when the flash exposure dominates), or the available light and flash will be about equal ... or the flash will act as a fill light, if you have the available light as the main source of light.
There's a wide range of possibilities there in how you balance flash and ambient light. But your flash output remains the same.
@@neilvn Thank you for an answer
Can I use High Speed Sync on the Nikon SB-700 and my Nikon Z6ii ?
Try it and see?
@@neilvn To try it I have to buy it. That's why I was asking, before I buy the SB-700
@@laranitasantana - aaah, it sounded like you might already have the flash and camera. And yes, it should work and give you HSS.
@@neilvn Okay thank you
Hi what is mean flash exposure lock ???
Some cameras have a way that you can lock the TTL flash exposure. Very handy if you have the correct exposure, and don't want it to change for subsequent photos.
will any trigger show the feet as the one you're using ? I have the Good Xpro and this device doesn't show the feet when making changes to the flash.
Michael -- whether the flash show the distance depends entirely on the design, make and model of the flash you are using.
good explanation , but lens in mm distance in feet , not logical.
That's America for you.
and if i want to use an aperture of 1.4 ???
@@igorcicala7 - then you use an aperture of f/1.4 and crank your shutter speed higher.
Hello Neil You said leave me any question and you would be happy to help. So I am asking. I am not sure you can help me on this one because there are so many variables. Your tutorial was great. It is repeatable but my situation I am trying to figure out before going into the field to test and come up with a repeatable way to get correctly exposed images in manual mode with flash. First I would like to use High Speed Sync to photograph fast moving objects like birds or animals using a shutter speed of 1000 to 2500.. I want to just use the flash as a fill, not as the main flash. (I know this can be done, I have seen videos and websites that describe the process with results but not any information or details on flash or camera setting, seems like they are guessing and or trial and error) Using a long lens say 400 2.8 to 600 f4 with 1.4 or 2x extenders also using a product called a better beamer. mountainnature.com/Photography/techniques/flash/betterbeamer.asp digitalbirdphotography.com/4.3.html Fresnel lenses can increase a flash up to 2 stops of light. The hard part is up to 2 stops, there is nothing set in stone and many variables. You can not readthe back of the flash to determine correct exposure and birds in flight move fast and if they travel towards you things change quickly as far a change in distance. I did email people using this technique but only one response and they said basically (guess) trial and error. I would like to make this a little more consistent or repeatable. I wish there was and automatic way to do this but if there was, anyone could do this. Any help would be appreciated.
With so many variables thrown into the mix, you really are mostly down to trial and error. Especially since guessing the distance at which a bird is flying, is difficult. Sorry I can't offer a more specific algorithm here.
@@neilvn So I got another reply back from someone that uses this technique for birds in flight. First let me say your video did help. If the Fresnel lens gives you back 2 stops, and using high speed sync takes away 2 stops it should be a wash and I am right back to the beginning of your video with the sunny 16 rule. I was told that using the better beamer was to fill in shadows, that is all. So in your calculations of distance error to the longer distance, worse case you don't fill in the shadows. I if you are too hot you will blow out highlights which is worse but even then you may be able to recover highlights in post when shooting raw. Manufacturers should come up with an automatic way to do this with either preflash or distance with metering. Seems like a no brainer to me. Maybe a 3rd party strobe manufacture will put a laser on the strobe that could measure distance. My old Nikon SB-28 had a non ttl auto mode that measured light when it fired and the sensor on the flash would automatically cut off the flash during x-sync flash when it sensed the right amount of light had been flashes. Again thanks, At least I have a starting point and who knows it may be constant.