Great video - some of the youtuber s with 100k - 500k views are nowhere near as good as this their edges still look bad ! some of them - one question do you route off arris s after ?
Thanks mate! Wish I had that many subs though🤣🤣 Yes, I just do the arrises after I sort out the edge's. Once I spray first coat then do first denib they become nice and smooth anyway 👍👍
Mdf would be usefull in some parts of the bed like panels or the base. It all depends on your design. You can use a bit of ply and timber for anything structural 👍
Hi fellas, many thanks for the superb tutorial! Turns out, as an amateur I've been doing it all wrong for years... I really appreciated the succinct, to-the-point nature of this video. All the best!
Hello ! I jointed two mdf pieces with biscuits which are paint white . The joint was successful but left a thin line at the joint between two white boards. How could I properly cover or fill this line ? Thank you
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop which filler do you think is suitable for this job? white filler wax stick, white pen marker filler or white acrylic wood filler ?
Do you round over your edges as suggested in your other video before or after this stage? And do you seal your MDF before primmer (e.g. Rustins) or straight on with primmer undercoat? Ta!
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop depending on how clean the cut is start at 180g then 320g then 1000g the 1000 starts to heat the resin in the mdf and makes the edges like the surface. Also helps to use a high build primer pretty much has filler in the primer spray away you’d never think it was mdf to start
That's really good to know thank you, it's a technique that we have perfected over about 5 years. We used to fill an edge at a time but adapted it to doing a whole job, and sometimes 2-3 jobs stacked up in one go, saves so much time. If there are any other videos you would like to see just let me know. Thanks Ryan
Thank you, from now on we should be posting a video once a week 👍 I hope you stay tuned and if you have any more video ideas just let me know Cheers Ryan
Just what I am looking for as I intend to buy new kitchen door that are a high gloss finish and I will make the cabinets, thanks for the help, great video.
Legend these videos explain everything really well. Great easy going guy giving all his knowledge freely. Thanks lads for all the hard work. I’m taking my time following step-by-step all the processes. Hopefully nothing will go wrong. I’m not far away from hanging my doors now. This is the part I’m dreading after all the work getting them looking reasonable. Hope I don’t clock it up. 😅
Please Ryan just one quick question 🙏🙏. I made my doors with 18mm mdf not 15 mm as you mentioned in a video I watched after I had done this. So I added strips l for shaker making it thicker. So question is do I need to alter the position of the cup part of the GTV hinge from 4mm in Is it always standard 4mm I did a mock up and it can be adjusted but should I go in at 3 or 5 mm not sure which way is best to give me more play. I’m doing 5 hinges on each door x 4. Hence why I’m worried 😂😂😂. I’m using a kreg jig 🙏🙏🙏
IT WORKS!!! Thanks so much for this great tip. I'm new to building furniture out of MDF and painting the edges was driving me nuts! But just cut about 30 panels and followed your tips - bingo! Worked first time. But the other benefit is ending up with all panels perfectly the same size. I'm a very happy newbie!
Thats great! Its a really good technique isn't it! I've used it for 100's of jobs and saved me soo much time. I dont even know where I learnt it from, I think it just evolved in the workshop 😁😁😁
Wow, never seen this done before; however I'm not a pro builder either. Aside from the low mic volume, really like the explanations on point and decent clip you move along with instead of blathering on and on. Subbed!
Top notch stuff, man! I hope, you will crack on with much more terrific, eye opening, highly efficient, time saving, professional tips for your fan members. Well, I am one of them as of now ;-) Just to clarify a couple of things: 1. Jointing compound filler for plasterboard a. Do you use this type of filler also to seal any imperfections on the plain, flat side of panels / face grain? ( I understand, that the brand product that you recommend on Amazon (Knauf) has exactly the same properties as the one that you´ve used on the video (Wickes) b. In your previous video from 2017 you used the much more expensive Zinnser 123 instead for sealing the grains and which is a shellac based product. To my knowledge Zinnser is 100% compatible with water based (acrylic) primer & water based top coats whilst - according to the company´s claim - providing unparalleled adhesion. What´s your long term experience with your approach and the jointing compound filler on this topic? c. Would this type of filler also work with moulded / profiled / curved edge grain whilst eg. using a brush? 2. Water based Acrylic Primer Undercoat In one of your previous videos you mentioned that you would spray a very thin dust undercoat onto the MDF first and then heat the material asap in order to avoid the grain raising. After that you would spray 2 more layers including top coats. Have you tried it the other way round whilst using just 2 coats (including top coat)? I.e.: first heat the MDF. And then spray the coat on the heated MDF. 3. Router micro cutters You recommended to watch the video on router micro cutters. Where can this be found? I couldn´t find it in your uploaded videos. 4. Wish list on future videos - how to make bespoke wardrobes and cabinets in the most efficient way for locations with slightly skewed / out of angle walls or floors - how to make and spray paint kitchen wardrobes and cabinets with the need of a much more robust surface 5. A final word on your videos Content wise your videos are top notch also including the density of your information: no waffling at all but instead always getting to the point straight away. As for the camera technique that you´re currently using - i understand that using a head cam is so much more convenient and faster for recording (eg. no need for tripod nor an additional camera man) . And principally that´s all fine. However, in your case I would highly recommend that you move your head in very slow motion whenever you change the perspective whilst recording. Otherwise you might run into the danger of your viewers experiencing the sensation of see sickness or other quite unwell feelings. If you are not sure about all this, then just have a look and study any movie in this respect. That´s it for now. Cheers
Hello, and thank you for your comments 👍😁 If you give me until tomorrow I will reply properly to them all, just very busy today spraying. Thanks again. Ryan
I'd like to thank you for such an in depth comment review. It means alot to me that my videos are helping and I'm doing something right 😁👍👍 1a To be honest I have only used the wickes filler which seems to work admirably on all repairs, whether on the face or the edge, but like all filler you will need to give it a few coats of paint before your top coat or it will show through. One thing to bear in mind is that very slightly grainy so if you have any tiny repairs then use extra fine ready mix filler from most shops. 1b From my experience using the zinnser and other water based products I have had no problems. When I was using zinnser fornthe edges I tried many primers and top coats over the top, none of which i had any problems at all. Now i use the Leyland acrylic primer undercoat for both the sealing and the first coat of primer and it works perfectly. Great coverage and very tough so I can recommend. 1c I cant recall using this filler to fill any curves or mouldings, I have only really used it on MDF grain like in my sealing edges video, and also on timber. I havnt had any problems with it, we use this as our main small fix filler. 2 MDF is very strange ( and annoying ) I've tried lots of ways to reduce and get rid of the grain rising completely. I've not got rid of it completely but I have reduced it. I generally only use 2 coats due to spraying with the airless sprayer, as it applies it alot heavier than any other type of sprayer. I use MR mdf on any external wardrobe/alcove unit components such as doors ,trims etc I find this helps. I cant really prove that the dust coat make so much of a difference, and also with the heating but I still do it. If I applied the paint heavily on standard MDF and with no heating on at all I think the grain WOULD raise significantly. When I have the heating on it warms the room up, but as I only have one heater I cant direct massive heat on all the components at any one time as my racks are so big and I'm spraying so many pieces in one hit (maybe 60 70 pieces) I would recommend a heater though to improve your results. 3 You are right 😁 there is no video on the radius cutter just yet, sorry about that . I think by the end of January I should have uploaded it. I've had a lot of interest in this. 4 and 5 Thank you for this info, it's like gold dust as any feedback really helps to improve the videos and channel. At the end of the day, it is just me that makes and edits all the videos on top of my 9-5 day job in 'said' workshop (plus Sean the camera man ). I'd like to plough more time into it but theres not enough hours in the week 😁 Thanks for the info on the camera techniques too, there is definitely room for improvements... Kind regards Ryan
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop I truly admire your quality of constructive response and precious time you´ve put into it, mate! This also includes your commitment to openly share your insights and experience (despite your limited free time), but also your obvious dedication to always learn and improve - in our special situation based on the feedback that you get (and I am glad that i could be of any help for you in this respect). "He who stops getting better has stopped being good.” Do you know this expression? Anyway, I can strongly sense that striving for perfection and efficiency seems to be one of your driving forces / guiding principles in life, together with your eagerness to almost selflessly share your knowledge & experience so that we can all benefit from you and learn from each other. That´s wonderful: In my view your approach sets you miles apart from many many influencers who quite often seem to be mainly focused on their own (mostly money making) benefit. As such I can only encourage you wholeheartedly to further continue your very special "Life of Ryan” - approach ;-)… At least that´s my very honest feedback and piece of advice without wanting to flatter you too much.
Perfect video - just what I was looking for thanks! I need to cut some kitchen cabinet end panels to shorten them slightly (panels are MDF with very thin melamine sheet). I believe a circular saw with a fine toothed, carbide tipped blade is supposed to give a nice perfect cut. But as a DIY-er I don't own a circular saw. I was thinking to get a fine tooth handsaw, like the Bahco PrizeCut 300 saw (a small toolbox saw with 15TPI), and clamp a batten of wood to the MDF to act as a guide so I cut it straight. Do you think this particular saw and method described would get me a reasonable cut considering I don't own a circular saw? I'll then use your method here to try and finish the edge off (i.e. sand it down)
Thanks! I don't know if the baton would help you may just cut into it pretty quickly. But a very fine saw would be your best bet like you said. Not sure on that saw, but if its for fine work I'm guess that would be your next best thing to try 👍
Great videos and inspired me to build my own wardrobes, which I am about to embark on. Couple of questions from the videos I have watched. I'm a DIYer so don't need the quantities or products you need as a pro. Is there an alternative to jointing compound as I have only seen it in large tubs I wont need. Regarding you video on spraying, can't afford such good gear and wondered what your thoughts are on the Wagner W100? Cheers!
Thank you and thats good to hear! You could use any ready mixed filler to be honest. Regarding the sprayer I dont think it will be as good as yiu think for spraying panels. I think you need to think paints quite heavily for these machines. Try and find out if people spray mdf with it. Ive never tried this model but I have a similar type and paints need to be watered quite a bit.
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Well everything :) Painting, varnishing and if you do plywood how different is it? Joining MDF (and ply), installation tips etc. Thank you!
Does the jointing compound not cause the MDF to bulge? I've found that numerous times in the past, part of why I switched to using two-pack fillers for edge grain on MDF. Wondering what brand of MDF that is if you happen to know offhand?
I wonder if this is still the way you work or did you amend it in any way? I saw you trying the bender as well. So what it is this days that you guys do for the edges? Thanks!
Hi Paul, I've never actually used it. I've use iron on veneer edging but not the paintable stuff. How does it fair? And when you round over the arrisses how do they come out? I use a micro round cutter for the arrisses so it would be interesting to know. Thanks for the comment 😁👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Hi. I started using it around 6 months ago and it's great for me. I was using 2mm rounds on my doors and it rounded and sanded fine. The painted finish was as good as ever but without the hassle of sanding. For approx £30 for a 100m roll at 22mm, it makes perfect sense for us people who don't have an edge bander.
That sounds really cool, I think I'll have to give it a go, but I'm a bit weary of when you have a fluffy/factory cut edge, how it adheres and if you see the dimples through it. Either way, there is always something to get over in any process 😁
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop I use paintable banding with a 1.6mm round over after and the edges are like factory. I used to try all that filling etc. It sprays lovely to.
Let me just add some MDF related thoughts including background info: MDF We shouldn´t forget that MDF mainly consists of wood fibres being glued together mostly by water resistant resin (melamine). As such MDF will always still have (to some degree) the typical characteristics of wood such as being literally open to moisture whilst then bloating in volume. Therefore, all water based sealants will more or less trigger this reaction - be it Zinsser 123 or any other sealing products such as the jointing compound filler by Leyland that you are currently using. On the other side, solvent based sealants and which don´t contain water, should avoid this bloating completely. (This can be observed when eg. using typical wood filler). However, for compatibility and adhesion reasons we would then have to also use solvent based primer and coat - stuff that should be avoided for health reasons when being applied inside eg. in workshops. Moisture resistant MDF (MR MDF) seems to be denser and contain a much higher proportion of resin and other water resistant components. Therefore the grains aren´t able to rise that much compared to ordinary MDF. One more note about sealing MDF I suppose Zinsser will seal the MDF grains effectively because of its Shellac based properties and which is, ballyhoo, - resin! You will experience the related side effects when you sand your Zinsser treated MDF: the sand paper will clog quite quickly! However, already a thin layer of Zinnser should do the job as it acts like a glue that will clog the pores. Your Leyland filler (and probably most of the other jointing compound acrylic filler) seems to do the sealing trick by the different chemical property of its Acryl based, quite pasty pigments: Those pigments become water resistant once the water of the filler has dissolved. Therefore the thicker the layer you apply the merrier the sealing effect. Apart from being much cheaper the other advantage of those fillers is that the sand paper for sanding won´t clog so fast and therefore will last much longer.
Thanks for the great comments and input. The downside with shellac based paint is that it isnt really cost effective to spray. A typical 2.4m wardrobe with shelves, drawers and shaker doors will take a good 10 litres of primer believe it or not. I'm also not really keen on putting anything other than water based through our machines due to the clean up after. Another guy in the comments recommended Teknos paint. I've not heard of it before but has said it's great stuff. I'll have to look into that
Hi great vid I was after some advice on fitting drawer runners.. Which holes do you use to fit the drawer runners to cabinet? Do you use the screws that come with the runners? How many screws do you use? which holes do you use to fit runner to the drawer itself? What size screws do you use? My plan is to use the runners on mirror to make a sliding mirror. with hidden storage behind it in between wall studs. I have been supplied with 15mm screws which I am not confident in using. Many thanks
Hi argan, thanks for your message. Can you send me a photo of your runners you are using please. Just go to our website contact page and send us an email. Www.thelondoncraftsman.co.uk I can give it a goes to make a very short simple vid to help you if I have pics and length of runners etc Thanks Ryan
Hi Arfan the video has been made and will either be uploaded today or tomorrow. (21st or 22nd Jan 2020) It will be named something to do with side mounted drawer runners. I hope you enjoy. Thanks Ryan
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](/img/tr.png)
Great video - some of the youtuber s with 100k - 500k views are nowhere near as good as this their edges still look bad ! some of them - one question do you route off arris s after ?
Thanks mate!
Wish I had that many subs though🤣🤣
Yes, I just do the arrises after I sort out the edge's.
Once I spray first coat then do first denib they become nice and smooth anyway 👍👍
excellent idea! thanks for the video, cheers from Canada!
Thank you! Appreciate it!
Cheers ryan!!
Can you not just use paint grade edge banding?
We do some of the time, but when there is a ton to do the stacking is so much quicker 👍
I was planning on making my daughters a bunkbed. Could I use MDF like this for the bunk bed? Im afraid of the longevity of MDF.
Mdf would be usefull in some parts of the bed like panels or the base. It all depends on your design.
You can use a bit of ply and timber for anything structural 👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Thank you. Ill do that then. :)
Hi fellas, many thanks for the superb tutorial! Turns out, as an amateur I've been doing it all wrong for years... I really appreciated the succinct, to-the-point nature of this video. All the best!
Hello ! I jointed two mdf pieces with biscuits which are paint white . The joint was successful but left a thin line at the joint between two white boards. How could I properly cover or fill this line ? Thank you
Hi can you just use extra fine filler to fill the joint then re-paint?
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop which filler do you think is suitable for this job? white filler wax stick, white pen marker filler or white acrylic wood filler ?
Toupret fine surface filler from toolstation?
Do you round over your edges as suggested in your other video before or after this stage? And do you seal your MDF before primmer (e.g. Rustins) or straight on with primmer undercoat? Ta!
Hi I round over my edges after this process and I just use primer, nothing else like rustins etc 👍👍
This was great way to sand and prep. It worked great! I did not use the filler and went straight to primer and it worked fine. Thanks
Really good to hear!! Its such a great time saving technique especially when you have tons of pieces 😁😁
How about curved profiled architraves?
Very informative and a good way for finishing mdf edges. Have you tried polish method before? Saves on filling edges.
Thank you!
I haven't, is it just going straight to a fine grain sand paper from the start and thats it?
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop depending on how clean the cut is start at 180g then 320g then 1000g the 1000 starts to heat the resin in the mdf and makes the edges like the surface. Also helps to use a high build primer pretty much has filler in the primer spray away you’d never think it was mdf to start
So no need for a sealer?
Nope ive never used sealer tbh, ive always done it this way as gives amazing results
Thank you. I've watched your other videos and many mention the edges. This was a good tutorial. Well done.
That's really good to know thank you, it's a technique that we have perfected over about 5 years. We used to fill an edge at a time but adapted it to doing a whole job, and sometimes 2-3 jobs stacked up in one go, saves so much time.
If there are any other videos you would like to see just let me know.
Thanks Ryan
An edge sander will increase your productivity. The primer that I use will cover the edge and flat areas no need to fill edges.
I have never seen an edge sander before, can you put a link up for one please?
Same as above
its been long time, but Great vid guys👌👌.Thank u🙏🙏
Thank you, from now on we should be posting a video once a week 👍
I hope you stay tuned and if you have any more video ideas just let me know
Cheers Ryan
Great, instructive video 👍👍👍 Nice one chaps 😎
Thanks nick I appreciate it
Just what I am looking for as I intend to buy new kitchen door that are a high gloss finish and I will make the cabinets, thanks for the help, great video.
Tell ya what I’ve never seen this done before but it’s brilliant
Nice one, its very quick and you can do the same technique with birch ply and other sheet materials ( barring the filling)
Excellent Video, well explained and everything you need to know about preparing mdf edges!
Brilliant video, thank you! Can one use any type of plasterboard filler?
Hi yes or any ready mixed filler
Legend these videos explain everything really well. Great easy going guy giving all his knowledge freely. Thanks lads for all the hard work. I’m taking my time following step-by-step all the processes. Hopefully nothing will go wrong. I’m not far away from hanging my doors now. This is the part I’m dreading after all the work getting them looking reasonable. Hope I don’t clock it up. 😅
Amazing and thank you!!
I hope it all goes well for you!!! 👍👍👍
Please Ryan just one quick question 🙏🙏. I made my doors with 18mm mdf not 15 mm as you mentioned in a video I watched after I had done this. So I added strips l for shaker making it thicker. So question is do I need to alter the position of the cup part of the GTV hinge from 4mm in Is it always standard 4mm I did a mock up and it can be adjusted but should I go in at 3 or 5 mm not sure which way is best to give me more play. I’m doing 5 hinges on each door x 4. Hence why I’m worried 😂😂😂. I’m using a kreg jig 🙏🙏🙏
Hi Ryan amazing results,Is this the same process for your shaker doors where you laminate 3mm MDF onto 15mm MDF,
Thanks yes exactly the same. BTW, I either do mainly 12 and 6 mm doors now, 18 and 3 still works too
It’s better to seal all areas to prevent warping
IT WORKS!!! Thanks so much for this great tip. I'm new to building furniture out of MDF and painting the edges was driving me nuts! But just cut about 30 panels and followed your tips - bingo! Worked first time. But the other benefit is ending up with all panels perfectly the same size. I'm a very happy newbie!
Thats great! Its a really good technique isn't it! I've used it for 100's of jobs and saved me soo much time. I dont even know where I learnt it from, I think it just evolved in the workshop 😁😁😁
Wow, never seen this done before; however I'm not a pro builder either. Aside from the low mic volume, really like the explanations on point and decent clip you move along with instead of blathering on and on. Subbed!
Thank you!
Sound and vid quality is definitely something I'm working on 👍👍
Top notch stuff, man! I hope, you will crack on with much more terrific, eye opening, highly efficient, time saving, professional tips for your fan members. Well, I am one of them as of now ;-)
Just to clarify a couple of things:
1. Jointing compound filler for plasterboard
a. Do you use this type of filler also to seal any imperfections on the plain, flat side of panels / face grain? ( I understand, that the brand product that you recommend on Amazon (Knauf) has exactly the same properties as the one that you´ve used on the video (Wickes)
b. In your previous video from 2017 you used the much more expensive Zinnser 123 instead for sealing the grains and which is a shellac based product. To my knowledge Zinnser is 100% compatible with water based (acrylic) primer & water based top coats whilst - according to the company´s claim - providing unparalleled adhesion.
What´s your long term experience with your approach and the jointing compound filler on this topic?
c. Would this type of filler also work with moulded / profiled / curved edge grain whilst eg. using a brush?
2. Water based Acrylic Primer Undercoat
In one of your previous videos you mentioned that you would spray a very thin dust undercoat onto the MDF first and then heat the material asap in order to avoid the grain raising. After that you would spray 2 more layers including top coats.
Have you tried it the other way round whilst using just 2 coats (including top coat)? I.e.: first heat the MDF. And then spray the coat on the heated MDF.
3. Router micro cutters
You recommended to watch the video on router micro cutters. Where can this be found? I couldn´t find it in your uploaded videos.
4. Wish list on future videos
- how to make bespoke wardrobes and cabinets in the most efficient way for locations with slightly skewed / out of angle walls or floors
- how to make and spray paint kitchen wardrobes and cabinets with the need of a much more robust surface
5. A final word on your videos
Content wise your videos are top notch also including the density of your information: no waffling at all but instead always getting to the point straight away.
As for the camera technique that you´re currently using - i understand that using a head cam is so much more convenient and faster for recording (eg. no need for tripod nor an additional camera man) . And principally that´s all fine. However, in your case I would highly recommend that you move your head in very slow motion whenever you change the perspective whilst recording. Otherwise you might run into the danger of your viewers experiencing the sensation of see sickness or other quite unwell feelings. If you are not sure about all this, then just have a look and study any movie in this respect.
That´s it for now. Cheers
Hello, and thank you for your comments 👍😁
If you give me until tomorrow I will reply properly to them all, just very busy today spraying.
Thanks again.
Ryan
I love all the questions bu the way 👍
I'd like to thank you for such an in depth comment review. It means alot to me that my videos are helping and I'm doing something right 😁👍👍
1a
To be honest I have only used the wickes filler which seems to work admirably on all repairs, whether on the face or the edge, but like all filler you will need to give it a few coats of paint before your top coat or it will show through.
One thing to bear in mind is that very slightly grainy so if you have any tiny repairs then use extra fine ready mix filler from most shops.
1b
From my experience using the zinnser and other water based products I have had no problems.
When I was using zinnser fornthe edges I tried many primers and top coats over the top, none of which i had any problems at all.
Now i use the Leyland acrylic primer undercoat for both the sealing and the first coat of primer and it works perfectly.
Great coverage and very tough so I can recommend.
1c
I cant recall using this filler to fill any curves or mouldings, I have only really used it on MDF grain like in my sealing edges video, and also on timber.
I havnt had any problems with it, we use this as our main small fix filler.
2
MDF is very strange ( and annoying )
I've tried lots of ways to reduce and get rid of the grain rising completely. I've not got rid of it completely but I have reduced it.
I generally only use 2 coats due to spraying with the airless sprayer, as it applies it alot heavier than any other type of sprayer.
I use MR mdf on any external wardrobe/alcove unit components such as doors ,trims etc I find this helps.
I cant really prove that the dust coat make so much of a difference, and also with the heating but I still do it.
If I applied the paint heavily on standard MDF and with no heating on at all I think the grain WOULD raise significantly.
When I have the heating on it warms the room up, but as I only have one heater I cant direct massive heat on all the components at any one time as my racks are so big and I'm spraying so many pieces in one hit (maybe 60 70 pieces)
I would recommend a heater though to improve your results.
3
You are right 😁 there is no video on the radius cutter just yet, sorry about that .
I think by the end of January I should have uploaded it.
I've had a lot of interest in this.
4 and 5
Thank you for this info, it's like gold dust as any feedback really helps to improve the videos and channel.
At the end of the day, it is just me that makes and edits all the videos on top of my 9-5 day job in 'said' workshop (plus Sean the camera man ). I'd like to plough more time into it but theres not enough hours in the week 😁
Thanks for the info on the camera techniques too, there is definitely room for improvements...
Kind regards
Ryan
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop I truly admire your quality of constructive response and precious time you´ve put into it, mate!
This also includes your commitment to openly share your insights and experience (despite your limited free time), but also your obvious dedication to always learn and improve - in our special situation based on the feedback that you get (and I am glad that i could be of any help for you in this respect).
"He who stops getting better has stopped being good.”
Do you know this expression? Anyway, I can strongly sense that striving for perfection and efficiency seems to be one of your driving forces / guiding principles in life, together with your eagerness to almost selflessly share your knowledge & experience so that we can all benefit from you and learn from each other. That´s wonderful:
In my view your approach sets you miles apart from many many influencers who quite often seem to be mainly focused on their own (mostly money making) benefit. As such I can only encourage you wholeheartedly to further continue your very special "Life of Ryan” - approach ;-)… At least that´s my very honest feedback and piece of advice without wanting to flatter you too much.
Perfect video - just what I was looking for thanks! I need to cut some kitchen cabinet end panels to shorten them slightly (panels are MDF with very thin melamine sheet). I believe a circular saw with a fine toothed, carbide tipped blade is supposed to give a nice perfect cut. But as a DIY-er I don't own a circular saw. I was thinking to get a fine tooth handsaw, like the Bahco PrizeCut 300 saw (a small toolbox saw with 15TPI), and clamp a batten of wood to the MDF to act as a guide so I cut it straight. Do you think this particular saw and method described would get me a reasonable cut considering I don't own a circular saw? I'll then use your method here to try and finish the edge off (i.e. sand it down)
Thanks!
I don't know if the baton would help you may just cut into it pretty quickly. But a very fine saw would be your best bet like you said.
Not sure on that saw, but if its for fine work I'm guess that would be your next best thing to try 👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Thanks and have a great day 😃
Great videos and inspired me to build my own wardrobes, which I am about to embark on. Couple of questions from the videos I have watched. I'm a DIYer so don't need the quantities or products you need as a pro. Is there an alternative to jointing compound as I have only seen it in large tubs I wont need. Regarding you video on spraying, can't afford such good gear and wondered what your thoughts are on the Wagner W100? Cheers!
Thank you and thats good to hear!
You could use any ready mixed filler to be honest.
Regarding the sprayer I dont think it will be as good as yiu think for spraying panels.
I think you need to think paints quite heavily for these machines.
Try and find out if people spray mdf with it. Ive never tried this model but I have a similar type and paints need to be watered quite a bit.
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Thanks for prompt reply!
Thanks a lot
What filler do you recommend for brad nail holes in MDF?
Sorry kenny for the late reply, id use any fine filler, you can buy a small pot and they go a long way. Ready mixed also.
Great job gents.
Very useful, thank you! I'd love to see more like this if you feel up for it :)
Thank you!
Yes if there is anything you would like to see/learn please let me know
Thanks Ryan 😁
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Well everything :) Painting, varnishing and if you do plywood how different is it? Joining MDF (and ply), installation tips etc. Thank you!
@@asztapaszta9 Great thanks, I'll do my best in future videos, I'm hoping to do at least one a week.
Also thinking about a weekly vlog?
Thanks Ryan
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Well yes, whatever type of videos you enjoy doing. :) I will watch for sure!
Does the jointing compound not cause the MDF to bulge? I've found that numerous times in the past, part of why I switched to using two-pack fillers for edge grain on MDF. Wondering what brand of MDF that is if you happen to know offhand?
I’ve also found that the normal primer is as good as zinner,, what mdf do you use ?
I wonder if this is still the way you work or did you amend it in any way? I saw you trying the bender as well. So what it is this days that you guys do for the edges? Thanks!
Thank you so much.
You're welcome! Happy New year!
Great video, thanks!
Hi, I use paintable iron on edging. it saves all that sanding and filling whilst also guaranteeing a perfectly straight edge.
Hi Paul, I've never actually used it. I've use iron on veneer edging but not the paintable stuff.
How does it fair? And when you round over the arrisses how do they come out? I use a micro round cutter for the arrisses so it would be interesting to know.
Thanks for the comment 😁👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Hi. I started using it around 6 months ago and it's great for me. I was using 2mm rounds on my doors and it rounded and sanded fine. The painted finish was as good as ever but without the hassle of sanding. For approx £30 for a 100m roll at 22mm, it makes perfect sense for us people who don't have an edge bander.
That sounds really cool, I think I'll have to give it a go, but I'm a bit weary of when you have a fluffy/factory cut edge, how it adheres and if you see the dimples through it.
Either way, there is always something to get over in any process 😁
Does it not leave a rough cracked edge when you take the boards out of the stack where the paint has stuck?
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop I use paintable banding with a 1.6mm round over after and the edges are like factory. I used to try all that filling etc. It sprays lovely to.
Let me just add some MDF related thoughts including background info:
MDF
We shouldn´t forget that MDF mainly consists of wood fibres being glued together mostly by water resistant resin (melamine). As such MDF will always still have (to some degree) the typical characteristics of wood such as being literally open to moisture whilst then bloating in volume. Therefore, all water based sealants will more or less trigger this reaction - be it Zinsser 123 or any other sealing products such as the jointing compound filler by Leyland that you are currently using.
On the other side, solvent based sealants and which don´t contain water, should avoid this bloating completely. (This can be observed when eg. using typical wood filler). However, for compatibility and adhesion reasons we would then have to also use solvent based primer and coat - stuff that should be avoided for health reasons when being applied inside eg. in workshops.
Moisture resistant MDF (MR MDF) seems to be denser and contain a much higher proportion of resin and other water resistant components. Therefore the grains aren´t able to rise that much compared to ordinary MDF.
One more note about sealing MDF
I suppose Zinsser will seal the MDF grains effectively because of its Shellac based properties and which is, ballyhoo, - resin! You will experience the related side effects when you sand your Zinsser treated MDF: the sand paper will clog quite quickly! However, already a thin layer of Zinnser should do the job as it acts like a glue that will clog the pores.
Your Leyland filler (and probably most of the other jointing compound acrylic filler) seems to do the sealing trick by the different chemical property of its Acryl based, quite pasty pigments: Those pigments become water resistant once the water of the filler has dissolved. Therefore the thicker the layer you apply the merrier the sealing effect.
Apart from being much cheaper the other advantage of those fillers is that the sand paper for sanding won´t clog so fast and therefore will last much longer.
Thanks for the great comments and input.
The downside with shellac based paint is that it isnt really cost effective to spray.
A typical 2.4m wardrobe with shelves, drawers and shaker doors will take a good 10 litres of primer believe it or not.
I'm also not really keen on putting anything other than water based through our machines due to the clean up after.
Another guy in the comments recommended Teknos paint.
I've not heard of it before but has said it's great stuff.
I'll have to look into that
Nice video
Thank you !
Can't believe you a using gyprock filler
Tell me why thats a negative? You fill walls and paint over it then?
Brilliant trick, I have been spraying for years and this actually is the first time I have seen this great idea
Thank you 😊
BS
Brilliant stuff!! Thank you
dont kid yourself and call yourself a professional. this is a cringe video.
Call me, my number is on my website, don't be pussy and not call me you coward
Hi great vid I was after some advice on fitting drawer runners.. Which holes do you use to fit the drawer runners to cabinet? Do you use the screws that come with the runners? How many screws do you use? which holes do you use to fit runner to the drawer itself? What size screws do you use? My plan is to use the runners on mirror to make a sliding mirror. with hidden storage behind it in between wall studs. I have been supplied with 15mm screws which I am not confident in using. Many thanks
Hi argan, thanks for your message.
Can you send me a photo of your runners you are using please. Just go to our website contact page and send us an email.
Www.thelondoncraftsman.co.uk
I can give it a goes to make a very short simple vid to help you if I have pics and length of runners etc
Thanks Ryan
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop thanks I have emailed you
Hi Arfan the video has been made and will either be uploaded today or tomorrow. (21st or 22nd Jan 2020)
It will be named something to do with side mounted drawer runners.
I hope you enjoy.
Thanks Ryan
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop Thank you so much.