The first half of the ruclips.net/user/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
I've got twenty five years in the cabinet shop after 12 years as a union carpenter and been using MDF for my work table tops the whole time. It's a solid surface , I use the 1' on my main assembly table on top of the maple floor boards from the Balboa Park Gym which I used as the sub top and have had the same assembly table for twenty five years. It's solid , made me a living and if it gets marred or a few holes , who cares. Scars are a part of life, it shows you lived, worked and fought once in a while. I've seen some of these shops on you tube and they run the gamut , I need a clean work surface to start the project but after that from chaos comes inspiration and maybe art. Good luck with your endeavors
The new top does look amazing. But really I was thinking about during this entire video was the original video series of making this table. It’s super cool to see it being updated after all this time.
Getting back into wood working after a 20+ year hiatus. Really enjoy your content and style. I am in the middle of the workshop table build, slightly modified for a table saw integration. I am planning on attempting the ultimate cabinet build after I make my mistakes on other projects. Looking forward to future content. Thanks for the tips and tricks of the trade!
MDF weighs 90 lbs. per sheet. I use MDF for my bench tops with white laminate glued to it with contact adhesive just like a counter top which I have made many of. This gives a bright top that is super durable plus when it gets beat up it can be replaced using a heat gun.
I am covering mu MDF with 3/16 ABS Plastic. Did you seal your mdf? Considering doing both sides and edges, unheated shop mostly. Thanks, mine will be black tops.
In a way it is somewhat comforting that I am not the only guy who will in the most random manner with the most impossible odds get something in my eye. Its pretty much why when I leave the house or pretty much leave my bed, put on a pair of sunglasses or safety glasses.
Love how you commentate your videos and I used MDF on my old garage shop for years. When my new house is done in a couple of months I was going to use something different for the top. But seeing you use MDF and Shellac with a good trim well that will be the way to go. Oh I had t-tracks in my bench and used it all the time. Even when I used the bench for reloading my shells.
I used that same t-track and I love the black! Make sure you have a screw at the end of each piece, if not with a little clamping pressure the track will bend upward at the end. I learned that the hard way!
My first view of a shop nation video. Excellent presentation by a clear-speaking, articulate, craftsman. Oh, and the content was spot on. I think I'll add an MDF top over my existing 3/4" plywood. I've been coveting some t-tracks, and this looks like the answer. Thank you.
Thanks! Smaller project but doing the same thing with a table saw extension wing/router lift insert. Went with birch plywood at first and decided to go with mdf. Going to use 3 coats of shellac with sanding in-between each. Awesome shop man! Kevin
The fact that you finished the surface with shellac that will really help! In my opinion MDF has always been fragile around the edges. With the additional trim to protect the edges that is a win win. The T-track looks great. I can see a lot of versatility with that table!! 👍🏼👍🏼
Turned out fantastic. I’m in the planning stages of my new shop and I think I’m going to incorporate this budget T track system. I’ve used a roll on Urethane product to seal MDF, but Shellac is much more affordable and that’s a good thing for sure! 👍🏼
Good timing, stumbling upon this vid... I'm getting a garage built as we speak and when the epoxy on the floor is dry, one of the first things I'm building is a multipurpose pullout table for the table saw.
Thanks so much. Downloaded the plans and just started on the workbench. I've tried building in the past and umm, let's just say it hasn't gone well. After watching some videos and looking into things, turned out the table saw wasn't at 90 degrees, my straightedge was bent, and a whole lot of other things I wasn't aware of. Now that I can cut square finally, decided to give this a try. Anyway, thank you for the detailed plans, they are soooo great!
I used laminate countertop veneer (rubber cement bond) on mine, no glue sticks things slide nice and wipe up easy. Adds a touch of height as well so the T track is recessed. Nice work!
I have used mdf on my out feed table for about 15 years. Finished it with shellac as well. Probably could sand it down now and redo the finish. Smells like rum, could put a whole new meaning to getting shellacked! Cheers buddy!
Excellent video, super nice work station. I am a commercial painting contractor. The best finish will be a marine grade polyurethane finish. Impervious to water and extremely durable. That's what all the architects spec.
I've been using MDF as a work surface for years. Just finished a smaller roll-around work table. Will follow your lead and edge with butt joined poplar band. I laminated 3/4 MDF to 3/4 OSB because that's what I had on hand. Free is the best price!
I’m watching this mid 2021 and with the current global shortage and pricing of plywood, MDF is the best alternative. Work top looks great 👍🏻. I have a bag of blonde shellac flakes which will be just the ticket for finishing some MDF projects
Awesome build. I made a similar top for my 8’ bench as well. I used 1 3/16 ultralight MDF as a base to give it as flat a surface as possible, then added an unglued replaceable 3/4 ultralight top (should’ve used regular MDF since it’s much stronger, lesson learned). I added t-track on the same half as yours using Powertec’s track. Another good option that’s inexpensive and blue (little bit darker than Rockler’s). Also going to add track along the edge banding for vertical clamping. One mistake I made was painting the surface in semigloss white. 🤨 easily chips and looks awful after a few uses. I’ll be using shellac next time. Thanks for the video!
Ok....did all the viewers, 9K+, of this video during ONLY 8 hours , buy out all the T-Track. Went to link and "Currently Unavailable" . Just doing your job. Keep up the great work. currently 10:02 PM 20-02-20
Another great video. I built a shop table for my table saw last summer with an mdf top. Pretty happy with it so far. My shellac finish didn't turn out as smooth as I had hoped, but oh well. I think it may have been because of the heat.
Clear style has 2 and 3 ft. kits that come with 2 sections of track plus the intersection. 4 ft. lengths of track without the intersection and just the intersection itself. They also have hold downs that are nicely machined and heavy duty all at prices cheaper than anybody else. I made my workbench using a sheet of 3/4" plywood topped with a sheet of 3/4" MDF. I am also adding T-track along with some dog holes. Thanks to this video I will also be putting on a couple of coats of shellac.
It's a beautiful thing Travis!! I built my workbench with MDF and used polyurethane to seal it. It has stood the test of time for 12yrs now and if I had to do it again I would use MDF all over again!
I built my workbenches almost exactly like this, except instead of laminating MDF to a thin plywood base I attached hardboard to a thick plywood base with countersunk screws. I finished it with poplar edges as well. I like the hardboard because it holds up to a lot of abuse, but then when it finally does get trashed I can just pull it off and replace it. I think I got that idea from an old Norm Abram video or something like that. Great video, man. I really like what you've done with your shop. You've given me some great ideas to get my own shop cleaned up and organized!
@@davidkennedy2555 do you have a better way to fasten the hardboard to your benches? Screws work, not sure if they're needed though. I'd like to keep the tops smooth if I could.
Looks good, I used oil based clear polyurethane on all my table tops made on MDF, very durable. I really like your miter saw table. I'll be ordering the plans for sure.
I made a similar work surface a few years ago, and coated it with a thin coat of watered-down Titebond. (I read about it in a forum someplace.) It was super cheap and easy, no fumes, and has held up pretty well. Use the water-resistant Titebond or else you'll get water rings wherever you set a cup down. If I were to make my workbench over again, I'd probably try the shellac or a water-based poly (or both) instead of Titebond. I've also made a bench with melamine-topped particle board and it has not held up well at all. It's hard to work with, brittle, and generally a pain. If I were going to use a non-MDF topper, I'd probably use hardboard.
About to redo my whole garage and all work stations, great tips on coating bench and T tracks installation. Great job! GO VOLS! (Saw the UT sticker on toolbox lid)
Mike Farmington shows using shellac but he thins it down for the first coat. He says he feels like because it’s thinner it penetrates the mdf more making the protective layer thicker. Haven’t tried it myself but seems to make sense.
I have been using polyurethane to protect my shop tools and work benches for years. You can sand it down every few years (15 for my table saw extension) and refinish it. The shellac tops look nice and I am sure will last you for years to come.
I've used MDF to make custom moldings for years, and shellac is my big secret for sealing the cut surfaces to allow for a smooth paint job. I seal with 2 coats of shellac, sand, prime, sand again, and paint. Works beautifully.
@@matiasgoinheix366 You can buy Shellac in powdered form and just mix in with alcohol. That is the preferred way most woodworkers purchase it here in the USA. Shellac is so light in powdered form shipping would be minimal.
Now I know why you needed to make the new one in Ohio. This thing weighs (half) a ton!!! I changed it up a bit since I have a small shop, and sunk my planer and router table into the top at 1 end and have my drawers under them. This table has opened up so much room, thank you for the inspiration
Man this is awesome... I literally went to HD today to buy material for my big workbench/outfeed table. I was going to buy a sheet of 3/4 birch but then I saw MDF was cheaper so I went with it instead... thanks for the info cu, I had no idea how I was gonna seal it... #Subscribed lol
I just finished section 1 of this build (doing the dust collection next). I also put t-track in mine, though I have three strips running down the "long" way instead of just two. I also only put it in half of the table. Not knowing any better, I covered my MDF top with some extra johnsons paste wax I had in the garage. It worked out really well, but it used up a BUNCH of it.
Ah, the good ole' oversized MDF. We always have tons of 1" strips of MDF because the spoil board cutout on our shop bot's vacuum table is exactly 48" x 96".
I’m about to make myself a t-track table. How did your wipe on poly finish work out for you? I actually have some already on hand and was hoping to use that
@@jeffstewart7434 It worked great! I put 2-3 coats on, and now not much sticks to the top. I can pop wood glue drips off after they dry, and everything else just wipes off.
Personally, I am currently building out my garage shop, and I did a lot of research on the work surfaces. I ultimately settled on using 1/8” High Density Fiberboard laminated to 3/4” Sandply plywood. When coated with polyurethane and a final paste wax coat, you cannot find a much better attractive work surface.
Great looking build. I used a 50/50 mix of poly/methylated spirits to seal my MDF. Works much better as it really soaks in and hardens the MDF surface.
@@douglarson1902 I used a 50/50 mix. Even used Shellite and that worked the same in place of metho. Yes, I just sanded lightly with 240 between coats (very light) just to get rid of nibs. The top is now about 6 years old and due for a re-coat. I'll be interested to see how it stands up to sanding it down and re-applying. The surprising thing about this coating is not just how easy it is but how hard it makes the MDF.
Nice project. MDF is bigger than 4x8' because it is sold by metric measures (~ 125cm x 250cm). It's actually helpful because you can cut off any damage on the edges, provided you have a large enough table to handle truing it up. Shellac smells like rum mainly because it is alcohol based. You can buy dry shellac flakes and dissolve into alcohol yourself--which allows you to customize the thickness. A lot of luthiers used it in the past (antique violins, for example) & some still do, though most have gone to lacquer. True shellac comes from secretions of an insect: the lac bug--native to India and Thailand. Shellac is definitely the way to go for MDF. Also good to know is that Zinser B-I-N Primer is basically a white-pigmented shellac. Great if you are going to paint over it. Very good to seal between practically any other finishes. And being alcohol based, shellac dries FAST.
I have all MDF surfaces. I use the Mike Farrington super-secret mixture 1:1 paint thinner and wipe on poly. thinning the poly lets it absorb into the MDF without swelling, then the poly hardens in there which if you ask me, strengthens the work surface. it also seals the surface so stains and spills have no effect. requires like 4-5 coats though. no big deal.
I used MDF on my outfeed/assembly table and finished it with a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and oil based poly. Don't use water based as it will cause the MDF to expand. By thinning the poly it allows the MDF to absorb it so it's not just sitting on top. I applied about 10 coats, as the first 5 or so coats soak in immediately. I waited maybe 30-60 minutes between coats then after maybe 5 coats I let it dry for 24/48 hours, however long it took to completely dry. I then sanded with 220, wiped it down with mineral spirits and applied a couple more coats. I repeated this process letting it dry completely after 2 or 3 coats. Once the MDF stopped absorbing the poly I stopped the process. It looks great and it will not absorb spills. Glue and paint clean off easily, even if dry. The only issue I have is that it's slick. I'm thinking of sanding the surface with 150 or so to scuff it up. I think enough poly was absorbed that even if I scuff the surface, liquids still won't be absorbed. Here's a photo after I completed it photos.app.goo.gl/3nTpjRRMXFTckyTw9.
After reading your post, I thought that’s a lot of work for just a McFadden top. But looking at the picture of the finished result shows the effort put in. I will certainly try your method on my workbench top.
@@davidlowe5192 It sounds like a lot of work but it's really not that much. I wiped on heavy even coats using a rag, a brush probably would have taken longer. Waiting for it to dry completely is what takes time and the sanding was quick with a ROS. I was very happy with the finished product, and I feel it's a fairly hard, durable, surface. I used the same process on a drill press table and when I build a miter station I will do the same.
Actually, i did it a bit different. I had a ¾ Inch plywood top, where i mounted the t-tracks. And then i Cut the 1/2 inch mdf to fit between the tracks. The mdf was then screwed on to the plywood from the underneath, and not glued. In that Way I Can easily change any part of the mdf, that is ruined by cuts or paint or whatever.
@@Mollermester so you didn’t router the T-track into the plywood then. You screwed into the plywood and then put the mdf around the T-track? Is my thinking right?
Always like watching a wood machine shop. So perfect & precise. The Bullseye shellac is great. It also is great on drywall that the paper has peeled off. Mud right over it and no raising of the paper underneath. Try using a foam roller on a small piece of wood. See if it lays flat. Might still need to sand in between coats. I think I finally figured out why there are 1/4 & 1/2 router bits because of you Travis. 1/4 for small routers & 1:2 for larger models. Thanks!
I made a big heavy workbench similar in size to this with t-track and have loved having the MDF surface! On mine I have a 6" side face with t-track in it as well to hold things vertically. The surface has aged so well, and feels like it gets harder and more durable with time. I finished mine with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO)... a lot of it... Also, watered down wood glue helps seal out the edges and top if you sand it down lightly after. Cool video man! Love the shop! Subscription earned :)
I would have dispensed with the plywood and gone with a 1 1/4" MDF. Fabricated many a custom cabinet on a 1 1/4" X 5' X 9' bench top. Finished a 1" MDF metal lathe bench with 4" high splashes on 3 sides I built with Danish Oil, sealed reasonably well but got kind of dirty after a few years.
The first half of the ruclips.net/user/postUgkx3ICSK6nSknaL_45CU2NmFSoXjarGMDiJ book is everything about wood: types, tools, finishes, setting up shop etc. The second half is all about doing projects for inside and outside of the home. The color pictures are helpful. After reading a dozen of these types of books, this is probably the best overall (layout, color photos, plans). Only detraction is that many of the projects use a table saw/router/planer, which are usually expensive and take up space, so the plans are less friendly to newcomers and the budget conscious. But I know I can use a drill, circular saw or a jigsaw to make the projects.
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
I've got twenty five years in the cabinet shop after 12 years as a union carpenter and been using MDF for my work table tops the whole time. It's a solid surface , I use the 1' on my main assembly table on top of the maple floor boards from the Balboa Park Gym which I used as the sub top and have had the same assembly table for twenty five years. It's solid , made me a living and if it gets marred or a few holes , who cares. Scars are a part of life, it shows you lived, worked and fought once in a while. I've seen some of these shops on you tube and they run the gamut , I need a clean work surface to start the project but after that from chaos comes inspiration and maybe art. Good luck with your endeavors
The fact you have your dust collector inside your work bench,. is absolutely brilliant.
I sealed my mdf work top with everything I spill on it.
The new top does look amazing.
But really I was thinking about during this entire video was the original video series of making this table. It’s super cool to see it being updated after all this time.
Getting back into wood working after a 20+ year hiatus. Really enjoy your content and style. I am in the middle of the workshop table build, slightly modified for a table saw integration. I am planning on attempting the ultimate cabinet build after I make my mistakes on other projects. Looking forward to future content. Thanks for the tips and tricks of the trade!
After a thousand videos of work benches, I am finally going to say something. Now that looks like a damn nice table!!!🎉
MDF weighs 90 lbs. per sheet. I use MDF for my bench tops with white laminate glued to it with contact adhesive just like a counter top which I have made many of. This gives a bright top that is super durable plus when it gets beat up it can be replaced using a heat gun.
I am covering mu MDF with 3/16 ABS Plastic.
Did you seal your mdf?
Considering doing both sides and edges, unheated shop mostly.
Thanks, mine will be black tops.
In a way it is somewhat comforting that I am not the only guy who will in the most random manner with the most impossible odds get something in my eye. Its pretty much why when I leave the house or pretty much leave my bed, put on a pair of sunglasses or safety glasses.
Love how you commentate your videos and I used MDF on my old garage shop for years. When my new house is done in a couple of months I was going to use something different for the top. But seeing you use MDF and Shellac with a good trim well that will be the way to go. Oh I had t-tracks in my bench and used it all the time. Even when I used the bench for reloading my shells.
I used that same t-track and I love the black! Make sure you have a screw at the end of each piece, if not with a little clamping pressure the track will bend upward at the end.
I learned that the hard way!
My first view of a shop nation video. Excellent presentation by a clear-speaking, articulate, craftsman. Oh, and the content was spot on. I think I'll add an MDF top over my existing 3/4" plywood. I've been coveting some t-tracks, and this looks like the answer. Thank you.
Thanks! Smaller project but doing the same thing with a table saw extension wing/router lift insert. Went with birch plywood at first and decided to go with mdf. Going to use 3 coats of shellac with sanding in-between each. Awesome shop man!
Kevin
Regarding that shellac that went in your eye, that's going to need three coats, and you should lightly sand with 220 between each one.
Ha, I wear my safety glasses when painting Shellac too for all the same reasons.
😂
Derek Smalls After that, you should always use a router to smooth that eye surface 👁👌🏻
@@rickywilson7240 why cut and paste another user’s comments in the same thread? Genuinely curious or is that a bot thing? @Ryan Henderson
The fact that you finished the surface with shellac that will really help! In my opinion MDF has always been fragile around the edges. With the additional trim to protect the edges that is a win win. The T-track looks great. I can see a lot of versatility with that table!! 👍🏼👍🏼
Turned out fantastic. I’m in the planning stages of my new shop and I think I’m going to incorporate this budget T track system. I’ve used a roll on Urethane product to seal MDF, but Shellac is much more affordable and that’s a good thing for sure! 👍🏼
I just discovered your channel yesterday, and I've been watching your videos nonstop. Your content is top-notch. I have subscribed!
Good timing, stumbling upon this vid... I'm getting a garage built as we speak and when the epoxy on the floor is dry, one of the first things I'm building is a multipurpose pullout table for the table saw.
Wow! So clean under the bench top when you removed it! That dust collection looks to be doing a great job!
Thanks so much. Downloaded the plans and just started on the workbench. I've tried building in the past and umm, let's just say it hasn't gone well. After watching some videos and looking into things, turned out the table saw wasn't at 90 degrees, my straightedge was bent, and a whole lot of other things I wasn't aware of. Now that I can cut square finally, decided to give this a try. Anyway, thank you for the detailed plans, they are soooo great!
I used laminate countertop veneer (rubber cement bond) on mine, no glue sticks things slide nice and wipe up easy. Adds a touch of height as well so the T track is recessed. Nice work!
I have used mdf on my out feed table for about 15 years. Finished it with shellac as well. Probably could sand it down now and redo the finish. Smells like rum, could put a whole new meaning to getting shellacked! Cheers buddy!
Excellent video, super nice work station. I am a commercial painting contractor. The best finish will be a marine grade polyurethane finish. Impervious to water and extremely durable. That's what all the architects spec.
Hey man, I bought your plans and am building the bench. I was planning on adding T Track to the top... Awesome to see you did it to yours as well!
Practical.
intelligent.
Inexpensive.
Impressive.
Thank you.
This will work perfectly for the top of my workbench. Thanks for all the great videos!
I've been using MDF as a work surface for years. Just finished a smaller roll-around work table. Will follow your lead and edge with butt joined poplar band. I laminated 3/4 MDF to 3/4 OSB because that's what I had on hand. Free is the best price!
Good job. I like MDF as a surface. Very flat. Very stable. And Shellac is the best topcoat.
In process of resurfacing my work bench too. Very helpful 👌 thanks man. Should have a video up in the near future on that. Stay Blessed 🙌
I’m watching this mid 2021 and with the current global shortage and pricing of plywood, MDF is the best alternative.
Work top looks great 👍🏻. I have a bag of blonde shellac flakes which will be just the ticket for finishing some MDF projects
Awesome build. I made a similar top for my 8’ bench as well. I used 1 3/16 ultralight MDF as a base to give it as flat a surface as possible, then added an unglued replaceable 3/4 ultralight top (should’ve used regular MDF since it’s much stronger, lesson learned).
I added t-track on the same half as yours using Powertec’s track. Another good option that’s inexpensive and blue (little bit darker than Rockler’s). Also going to add track along the edge banding for vertical clamping.
One mistake I made was painting the surface in semigloss white. 🤨 easily chips and looks awful after a few uses. I’ll be using shellac next time.
Thanks for the video!
Such a good timing, to come across this video.... Thanks
You got a great workable shop. I haven't fully plan out my shop but I love your ideas. Thanks for sharing.
Ok....did all the viewers, 9K+, of this video during ONLY 8 hours , buy out all the T-Track. Went to link and "Currently Unavailable" . Just doing your job. Keep up the great work. currently 10:02 PM 20-02-20
Looks Great, Lacquer works very well also.
Your the next big wood working youtuber my friend keep doing what your doing!
Nice workbench set up. Thanks for the video. Stay safe.
Another great video. I built a shop table for my table saw last summer with an mdf top. Pretty happy with it so far. My shellac finish didn't turn out as smooth as I had hoped, but oh well. I think it may have been because of the heat.
I think the top looks very nice.
the more i see ,the more i learn. thank you!
Clear style has 2 and 3 ft. kits that come with 2 sections of track plus the intersection. 4 ft. lengths of track without the intersection and just the intersection itself. They also have hold downs that are nicely machined and heavy duty all at prices cheaper than anybody else. I made my workbench using a sheet of 3/4" plywood topped with a sheet of 3/4" MDF. I am also adding T-track along with some dog holes. Thanks to this video I will also be putting on a couple of coats of shellac.
I've been in restaurants that aren't as clean as your shop. Nice video and I love the workbench!
It's a beautiful thing Travis!! I built my workbench with MDF and used polyurethane to seal it. It has stood the test of time for 12yrs now and if I had to do it again I would use MDF all over again!
Could you recommend polyurethane for sealing?
I used Minwax
I built my workbenches almost exactly like this, except instead of laminating MDF to a thin plywood base I attached hardboard to a thick plywood base with countersunk screws. I finished it with poplar edges as well. I like the hardboard because it holds up to a lot of abuse, but then when it finally does get trashed I can just pull it off and replace it. I think I got that idea from an old Norm Abram video or something like that.
Great video, man. I really like what you've done with your shop. You've given me some great ideas to get my own shop cleaned up and organized!
I like hardboard for that also. I use it as an ultimately disposable top that can be easily replaced.
Thanks for another great video. Unfortunately the track you linked is "currently unavailable" 😥
@@davidkennedy2555 do you have a better way to fasten the hardboard to your benches? Screws work, not sure if they're needed though. I'd like to keep the tops smooth if I could.
Looks good, I used oil based clear polyurethane on all my table tops made on MDF, very durable. I really like your miter saw table. I'll be ordering the plans for sure.
I made a similar work surface a few years ago, and coated it with a thin coat of watered-down Titebond. (I read about it in a forum someplace.) It was super cheap and easy, no fumes, and has held up pretty well. Use the water-resistant Titebond or else you'll get water rings wherever you set a cup down. If I were to make my workbench over again, I'd probably try the shellac or a water-based poly (or both) instead of Titebond. I've also made a bench with melamine-topped particle board and it has not held up well at all. It's hard to work with, brittle, and generally a pain. If I were going to use a non-MDF topper, I'd probably use hardboard.
About to redo my whole garage and all work stations, great tips on coating bench and T tracks installation. Great job! GO VOLS! (Saw the UT sticker on toolbox lid)
I really like your setup, that looks like a setup I'm looking for. Thanks for sharing
Just further inspiration for my own workbench great work Travis
Rock on my friend! Please let us know how that new T Track works out.
I don't have engineer like precision, maybe thats why its fun to watch your videos
It gives the table tops a classy look. Definitely a nice change.
Mike Farmington shows using shellac but he thins it down for the first coat. He says he feels like because it’s thinner it penetrates the mdf more making the protective layer thicker. Haven’t tried it myself but seems to make sense.
Great work Travis! Looks awesome!
Very good video. Wanting to go back on some of my tops and add t-track to them. Good info.
That really looks good.
I have been using polyurethane to protect my shop tools and work benches for years. You can sand it down every few years (15 for my table saw extension) and refinish it. The shellac tops look nice and I am sure will last you for years to come.
I've used MDF to make custom moldings for years, and shellac is my big secret for sealing the cut surfaces to allow for a smooth paint job. I seal with 2 coats of shellac, sand, prime, sand again, and paint. Works beautifully.
What alternative would you recommend for Shellac? Can't find any in my country. Thanks.
@@matiasgoinheix366 You can buy Shellac in powdered form and just mix in with alcohol. That is the preferred way most woodworkers purchase it here in the USA. Shellac is so light in powdered form shipping would be minimal.
@@johne9341 That's a great tip, thank you, will give it a try.
@@matiasgoinheix366 Shellac in spray is even cleaner
Good job, love the results
I like MDF as a work surface and for drawer fronts. And Shellac is the only finish to use.
Great content, happy to be one of the new subs!! 😁
Now I know why you needed to make the new one in Ohio. This thing weighs (half) a ton!!! I changed it up a bit since I have a small shop, and sunk my planer and router table into the top at 1 end and have my drawers under them. This table has opened up so much room, thank you for the inspiration
When I built my assembly table I used a 1/2 inch and a 3/4 inch mdf panel. Added dog holes and track. To seal it I used a wipe on matte poly.
Turned out great!
Man this is awesome... I literally went to HD today to buy material for my big workbench/outfeed table. I was going to buy a sheet of 3/4 birch but then I saw MDF was cheaper so I went with it instead... thanks for the info cu, I had no idea how I was gonna seal it... #Subscribed lol
Outstanding bud. Very nice stuff. Fantastic content
Looks Great!! Thanks for the video. I think I will do this on my next workbench.
I just finished section 1 of this build (doing the dust collection next). I also put t-track in mine, though I have three strips running down the "long" way instead of just two. I also only put it in half of the table. Not knowing any better, I covered my MDF top with some extra johnsons paste wax I had in the garage. It worked out really well, but it used up a BUNCH of it.
Sounds like a great build! Would love to see it
Ah, the good ole' oversized MDF. We always have tons of 1" strips of MDF because the spoil board cutout on our shop bot's vacuum table is exactly 48" x 96".
I love the MDF top on my assembly table. I finished it with wipe-on poly, and will be adding t-track soon.
I’m about to make myself a t-track table. How did your wipe on poly finish work out for you? I actually have some already on hand and was hoping to use that
@@jeffstewart7434 It worked great! I put 2-3 coats on, and now not much sticks to the top. I can pop wood glue drips off after they dry, and everything else just wipes off.
Thanks mate that was an excellent presentation.
Casual lurker..... now a subscriber.
Keep up the good work.
Looking great.
Nice job - 👍.Came out very well.
I like the way it looks, plus it looks like it will hold up. I'll be building my shop very similar to what you have done, great job keep it up...
Looks great and it's a great idea too
Looks great!
Very nice work bench ! 👍👍
Looks great!!
Personally, I am currently building out my garage shop, and I did a lot of research on the work surfaces. I ultimately settled on using 1/8” High Density Fiberboard laminated to 3/4” Sandply plywood. When coated with polyurethane and a final paste wax coat, you cannot find a much better attractive work surface.
Well now I have my table top idea. Thanks
Great looking build.
I used a 50/50 mix of poly/methylated spirits to seal my MDF. Works much better as it really soaks in and hardens the MDF surface.
What was the ratio of poly to methylated spirits you used? And did you sand in between coatings?
@@douglarson1902 I used a 50/50 mix. Even used Shellite and that worked the same in place of metho.
Yes, I just sanded lightly with 240 between coats (very light) just to get rid of nibs.
The top is now about 6 years old and due for a re-coat. I'll be interested to see how it stands up to sanding it down and re-applying.
The surprising thing about this coating is not just how easy it is but how hard it makes the MDF.
Nice project.
MDF is bigger than 4x8' because it is sold by metric measures (~ 125cm x 250cm). It's actually helpful because you can cut off any damage on the edges, provided you have a large enough table to handle truing it up.
Shellac smells like rum mainly because it is alcohol based. You can buy dry shellac flakes and dissolve into alcohol yourself--which allows you to customize the thickness. A lot of luthiers used it in the past (antique violins, for example) & some still do, though most have gone to lacquer. True shellac comes from secretions of an insect: the lac bug--native to India and Thailand.
Shellac is definitely the way to go for MDF. Also good to know is that Zinser B-I-N Primer is basically a white-pigmented shellac. Great if you are going to paint over it. Very good to seal between practically any other finishes. And being alcohol based, shellac dries FAST.
Great video! Very informative.
mdf is not bad they take a really good finish
Damn I wish that was my work shop 😂 really great job done. Can’t wait to watch all the other videos, how the garage came to be
I really like the black t-track. Looks really good on the bench with your paint scheme
I have all MDF surfaces. I use the Mike Farrington super-secret mixture 1:1 paint thinner and wipe on poly. thinning the poly lets it absorb into the MDF without swelling, then the poly hardens in there which if you ask me, strengthens the work surface. it also seals the surface so stains and spills have no effect. requires like 4-5 coats though. no big deal.
Water or Oil based Poly?
When the shellac flung into your eye...the wtf?! moment. Lol great content. Hope the eye is okay.
Bringing home sheet stock on the roof of the Audi is sure sign of you being hardcore Travis. 💪😎🤣
'Bubbles' shout-out...NICE!!!!
Great project! 👍
I used MDF on my outfeed/assembly table and finished it with a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and oil based poly. Don't use water based as it will cause the MDF to expand. By thinning the poly it allows the MDF to absorb it so it's not just sitting on top.
I applied about 10 coats, as the first 5 or so coats soak in immediately. I waited maybe 30-60 minutes between coats then after maybe 5 coats I let it dry for 24/48 hours, however long it took to completely dry. I then sanded with 220, wiped it down with mineral spirits and applied a couple more coats. I repeated this process letting it dry completely after 2 or 3 coats. Once the MDF stopped absorbing the poly I stopped the process.
It looks great and it will not absorb spills. Glue and paint clean off easily, even if dry. The only issue I have is that it's slick. I'm thinking of sanding the surface with 150 or so to scuff it up. I think enough poly was absorbed that even if I scuff the surface, liquids still won't be absorbed. Here's a photo after I completed it photos.app.goo.gl/3nTpjRRMXFTckyTw9.
Looks nice.
After reading your post, I thought that’s a lot of work for just a McFadden top. But looking at the picture of the finished result shows the effort put in. I will certainly try your method on my workbench top.
@@davidlowe5192 It sounds like a lot of work but it's really not that much. I wiped on heavy even coats using a rag, a brush probably would have taken longer. Waiting for it to dry completely is what takes time and the sanding was quick with a ROS. I was very happy with the finished product, and I feel it's a fairly hard, durable, surface. I used the same process on a drill press table and when I build a miter station I will do the same.
Actually, i did it a bit different. I had a ¾ Inch plywood top, where i mounted the t-tracks. And then i Cut the 1/2 inch mdf to fit between the tracks. The mdf was then screwed on to the plywood from the underneath, and not glued. In that Way I Can easily change any part of the mdf, that is ruined by cuts or paint or whatever.
That is a great idea. Does having the track sit that far below the surface cause you any problems?
I have seen up to 3 1/2" T-Bolts sold by Rockler. I wonder if that would help.
@@jordannaegle5366 actually, the diffference between the mdf-surface and the t-Track-top is only ½ mm, so it is working very well
@@Mollermester so you didn’t router the T-track into the plywood then. You screwed into the plywood and then put the mdf around the T-track?
Is my thinking right?
@@chadcleary7931 exactly 👍
Looks great 👌
Great Job thank for the tip on track
Always like watching a wood machine shop. So perfect & precise. The Bullseye shellac is great. It also is great on drywall that the paper has peeled off. Mud right over it and no raising of the paper underneath. Try using a foam roller on a small piece of wood. See if it lays flat. Might still need to sand in between coats. I think I finally figured out why there are 1/4 & 1/2 router bits because of you Travis. 1/4 for small routers & 1:2 for larger models. Thanks!
I made a big heavy workbench similar in size to this with t-track and have loved having the MDF surface! On mine I have a 6" side face with t-track in it as well to hold things vertically. The surface has aged so well, and feels like it gets harder and more durable with time. I finished mine with Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO)... a lot of it... Also, watered down wood glue helps seal out the edges and top if you sand it down lightly after. Cool video man! Love the shop! Subscription earned :)
I would have dispensed with the plywood and gone with a 1 1/4" MDF. Fabricated many a custom cabinet on a 1 1/4" X 5' X 9' bench top. Finished a 1" MDF metal lathe bench with 4" high splashes on 3 sides I built with Danish Oil, sealed reasonably well but got kind of dirty after a few years.