Morrell's MDF sealer , it needs to be used in a well ventilated area but dries in about 20 minutes and the smell goes after sanding. It makes the edge as hard as the face and is much quicker than filling.
You are the ones using MDF all day, every day. I work mostly in hardwoods but in fitting out a barn conversion, I’m using a lot of MDF. My first imperative is to buy decent MDF: I use only Medite MRMDF or Finsa. With these, there is no fluff and the edges are as good as the faces. It’s more expensive per sheet but it’s worth that to me. Occasionally, I use the fluffy stuff for a one-use jog and it’s dreadful by comparison. So, I end up with nice smooth edges but I will get some saw burn marks particularly when starting off a large sheet because my rate of push through the blade is uneven and the awkwardness of keeping the sheet tight against the fence. I invested in a table saw sanding disc from Mike Farrington (on YT) and it’s great. After cutting all my strips to perhaps 1mm (no more) wider than needed, I take out the cutting blade, put in the sanding disc checking for 90 degrees as one of the necessities of the disc is that it’s tapered (you just tilt the blade by 2 degrees to get vertical) and run everything through. That does improve the edge plus gets rid of any saw burn marks. I am using Leyland MDF primer but that might well be something that I don’t need on the high quality MDF. If you’re using MDF day in and day out, there is a calculation between the extra cost of Medite or Finsa compared to the cost of the one of the 3 edge methods shown here. It could be that it’s cheaper as a total to use fluff - that’s not really the major consideration for me as I just don’t use enough MDF over the longer term.
@@samrix5793 thsnks for that. It’s obviously for finishing and so I’m careful not to take more than 1mm or so off at any one pass. I bought it with several different grits but I don’t think the grit matters too much - 80 or 120. It’s not economical to buy replacements from MF but they are standard round sticky backed sandpaper discs with the centre hole cut out. The arbor on my table saw is short (as it is generally with UK saws) and because the aluminium sanding discs is quite thick towards the centre, I could not use the washer (10mm?) that I use for normal blades; easy enough to buy a 30mm washer at 6mm thick and that gives me enough thread to put the nut on. You do have to have a different inset plate to allow for the thicker disc and may have to remove the riving knife for the operations - none of that is an issue for me. If you do get one and have any issues, then send a message and I’ll see if I know anything about it.
Banding ends up looking really cheap and betrays the material you are using. Best way, spray the edges first before you start which fills the fiber and stiffens it. THEN sand. For a really good finish seal again, get any remaining fibers that were left exposed raw by the first sanding, sand again and you are ready for a mirror finish paint job.
Good methods👍, I use the sanding method but go down to 600 wet and dry discs on my random orbit. Brings the edges up as smooth as the surface and even on crappy B and Q or Wickes mdf👍
Hi Ryan, awesome and informative videos as always, you are my go to tutor. I am in the process of planning my built-in wardrobes to 3 bedrooms and I have been doing a bit of research on various ways of finishing Mdf and wondered what your thoughts were on vinyl wrapping the doors etc? Have you ever tried and tested this method? Was also hoping to get some info on construction of draws etc. Are there any videos on this specifically? Thanks
Hi luke thank you 👍 I have never tried vinyl wrapping but I know companies out there do it, not cheap! I don't think I'd ever attempt it. I do have a video on making drawers called make these drawer boxes ..... Ep#51 I use this quire ofter tbh 👍👍
Hi Ryan Would appreciate some help; I purchased the paintable edging you linked in the video. Done 3 coats of eggshell and it looks nice but by just by coincidence I noticed if i use my nail and pick on the paint it comes away and the white can be seen. Is this something you have come across ? Just concerned overtime the paint is just going to come off ? I didn’t use any primer as I didn’t think it was needed?
There are few options that i can suggest for everyone that it's reading this. I have tried every method that I've heard of ,but the best results without expensive sealer i had, is definitely with nitro base enamel (clear or mat) First the most important thing is good prepared edge, you need edge without cutting marks so you need to sand those imperfections. If you have deep marks ,sand it with 120 grit paper ,than proced to 240 grit . Nitro enamel you can apply with brush or roller and even with hlpv cheap gun,i personally prefer brush . Apply one coat than wait for 10 to 15 minutes. When its completely dry ,sand down the edge with 400 grit paper .You will have a great result with this method . If you see small holes or any other imperfections,apply one more coat of nitro enamel . After it got dry ,sand again with 400 grit. If you need any other help , I'm more than willing to help,contact me . Stay strong as a community,stay strong as a woodworking family .💪
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Morrell's MDF sealer , it needs to be used in a well ventilated area but dries in about 20 minutes and the smell goes after sanding. It makes the edge as hard as the face and is much quicker than filling.
I use the morrells sealer but my main go to is shellac . Paint or roll on 30 minutes later sand and it’s ready to paint
You are the ones using MDF all day, every day. I work mostly in hardwoods but in fitting out a barn conversion, I’m using a lot of MDF. My first imperative is to buy decent MDF: I use only Medite MRMDF or Finsa. With these, there is no fluff and the edges are as good as the faces. It’s more expensive per sheet but it’s worth that to me. Occasionally, I use the fluffy stuff for a one-use jog and it’s dreadful by comparison. So, I end up with nice smooth edges but I will get some saw burn marks particularly when starting off a large sheet because my rate of push through the blade is uneven and the awkwardness of keeping the sheet tight against the fence. I invested in a table saw sanding disc from Mike Farrington (on YT) and it’s great. After cutting all my strips to perhaps 1mm (no more) wider than needed, I take out the cutting blade, put in the sanding disc checking for 90 degrees as one of the necessities of the disc is that it’s tapered (you just tilt the blade by 2 degrees to get vertical) and run everything through. That does improve the edge plus gets rid of any saw burn marks. I am using Leyland MDF primer but that might well be something that I don’t need on the high quality MDF.
If you’re using MDF day in and day out, there is a calculation between the extra cost of Medite or Finsa compared to the cost of the one of the 3 edge methods shown here. It could be that it’s cheaper as a total to use fluff - that’s not really the major consideration for me as I just don’t use enough MDF over the longer term.
Detailed reply I've seen that sanding disk for the table saw and wondered how effective it was
@@samrix5793 thsnks for that. It’s obviously for finishing and so I’m careful not to take more than 1mm or so off at any one pass. I bought it with several different grits but I don’t think the grit matters too much - 80 or 120. It’s not economical to buy replacements from MF but they are standard round sticky backed sandpaper discs with the centre hole cut out. The arbor on my table saw is short (as it is generally with UK saws) and because the aluminium sanding discs is quite thick towards the centre, I could not use the washer (10mm?) that I use for normal blades; easy enough to buy a 30mm washer at 6mm thick and that gives me enough thread to put the nut on. You do have to have a different inset plate to allow for the thicker disc and may have to remove the riving knife for the operations - none of that is an issue for me. If you do get one and have any issues, then send a message and I’ll see if I know anything about it.
Banding ends up looking really cheap and betrays the material you are using. Best way, spray the edges first before you start which fills the fiber and stiffens it. THEN sand. For a really good finish seal again, get any remaining fibers that were left exposed raw by the first sanding, sand again and you are ready for a mirror finish paint job.
Good methods👍, I use the sanding method but go down to 600 wet and dry discs on my random orbit. Brings the edges up as smooth as the surface and even on crappy B and Q or Wickes mdf👍
This is a really useful video. What technique would you use for an edge which has a larger round-over, or a handleless drawer with a finger pull?
I guess hand fill and sand the parts with a large round over and possibly the same for the finger pull.
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop I thought that might be the only way but was hoping there'd be a sneaky trick for edges like that. Thank you.
How do you use the edging tool is your creating a corner filler etc? And want to seal the edge flush with the end filler panel?
Good video what is the name and model of that edging machine very wonderful machine, I have liked it thank you.
It's the virutex edge bander 👍👍👍
Hi Ryan, awesome and informative videos as always, you are my go to tutor. I am in the process of planning my built-in wardrobes to 3 bedrooms and I have been doing a bit of research on various ways of finishing Mdf and wondered what your thoughts were on vinyl wrapping the doors etc? Have you ever tried and tested this method?
Was also hoping to get some info on construction of draws etc. Are there any videos on this specifically?
Thanks
Hi luke thank you 👍
I have never tried vinyl wrapping but I know companies out there do it, not cheap!
I don't think I'd ever attempt it.
I do have a video on making drawers called make these drawer boxes ..... Ep#51
I use this quire ofter tbh 👍👍
Hi Ryan
Would appreciate some help;
I purchased the paintable edging you linked in the video.
Done 3 coats of eggshell and it looks nice but by just by coincidence I noticed if i use my nail and pick on the paint it comes away and the white can be seen.
Is this something you have come across ?
Just concerned overtime the paint is just going to come off ?
I didn’t use any primer as I didn’t think it was needed?
Hi I've never had that problem I'm afraid using my technique. It's always really soild
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop could it be the paint ? Using water based acrylic???
There are few options that i can suggest for everyone that it's reading this.
I have tried every method that I've heard of ,but the best results without expensive sealer i had, is definitely with nitro base enamel (clear or mat)
First the most important thing is good prepared edge, you need edge without cutting marks so you need to sand those imperfections.
If you have deep marks ,sand it with 120 grit paper ,than proced to 240 grit .
Nitro enamel you can apply with brush or roller and even with hlpv cheap gun,i personally prefer brush . Apply one coat than wait for 10 to 15 minutes.
When its completely dry ,sand down the edge with 400 grit paper .You will have a great result with this method .
If you see small holes or any other imperfections,apply one more coat of nitro enamel . After it got dry ,sand again with 400 grit.
If you need any other help , I'm more than willing to help,contact me .
Stay strong as a community,stay strong as a woodworking family .💪
Hey! I saw you comment on someone that you just do these methods for the visible edges, do you leave the other edges just as is?
Any tips on how to keep the edge nice and square using method 2?
If you have several boards stacked together it gives enough of a reference surface
When you use method one with filler in a stack do they not stick together or crack edges when finished and taking apart again. Thanks
Hi, nope😁.
Well, very slightly but hardly anything. Taking the arris off sorts it out, especially when using the 1.6mm radius round over cutter 👍👍
another youtuber has shown to use 1000 grit on the mdf edge. what is your take on it?
A little bit over kill in my eyes and not needed. Polishing the edges up with 320 is more than enough for me 👍
My concern with iron on edging is that it will chip off over time.
Why not make carcass out of melamine faced mdf (or any other prefinished material)? Why do you bother with all of this?
Because melamine is horrible and tacky and I wouldn't sell that to my customers, they may aswell go to ikea