I know the feeling of forgetting a step when installing pavers. In my case, I had forgotten to put down the polypropylene paver base panel. I was wondering why I had to use so much sand. Realizing my error, I took up everything and redid it. And, yes, it was extremely hot when I did this. Beautifully done, Brent. I always love your projects.
We all make mistakes sometimes Lisa but we just need to work through them. Sorry to hear it was HOT for you to haha! Makes the job harder that’s for sure :) thanks so much for the support,
But Kona just stood there and didn’t say a thing to me as I forgot the weed barrier. Apparently not the best supervisor and was lounging around on the job lol! Thanks so much for watching :)
Good point, but as all the layers are draining water (absorbent), wouldn't it be counterproductive to raise the level close to the house? if it was a solid concrete e.g. it should've been lean away from the house, for sue. I rather asking it then stating :/
I was going to ask about drainage. Since that a big problem I have with mine. It’s a swamp when it rains, that’s also the side where my supply (water) line, gas line and electric meter, and lan line from phone route to the home. My concern is I’ve had the supply line replace several years ago, I’m not so sure how deep it’s buried as well as about 15 years ago I did a poor job of putting in a French drain and now debunk under ground sprinkler.
Yep. You should do about 1/8th inch per foot of slope. Some people do 1/4th inch per foot. Either is fine. It's probably more important for a patio, though.
Just did a similar project myself. A couple differences I did were: 1. Put the weed barrier underneath the crushed gravel. 2. Used 4 inches of gravel. 3. Used a tamper which is fun and works just as well imo. 4. Used an inch of sand. 5. Made sure it was level but with a slight decline away from the house as well. 6. Used edging that had holes for stakes to keep the line secure and straight. 7. Used 12"x12" permeable pavers and marble chips around them. (Looks great except for when the sun hits the white marble chips it's kind of blinds me... oops.) All in all well done. Thanks for sharing. Always good to see how others adjust for mistakes, which I thought you did very well.
Quick tip - pull the tail gate off when shoveling out bulk material. Saves you from shoveling the material that extra distance. Also, it will be less work to shovel from in the truck.
Great company to work with!! Best Service in Houston, Texas !! Air Duct Cleaning made my house smell so much better! Call these guys they know what they are doing!!
Nice little project man. Good curb appeal. I love any kind of hardscaping. Just a note thst I like to add about 1/8" slope away from the house so any water drains away elsewhere. Other than that its likely fine
2 года назад
When the dog mentioned "definitely overkill", his though is "no more sidewalk dirt for me to play anymore" lol
This is what I want for the front of my house. I do have to hire someone to do for me, for my hubby has Parkinson's and he cannot do it. You did an amazing job.
Important to note that it should be sloped ever so slightly AWAY from the foundation, aka: positive drainage, to prevent water from going into the basement in areas with rain or wet ground.
I'm wanting to do something similar with my front walkway, but after putting together a test area a couple years back when I first bought the house, I've found that while the week barrier keeps weeds from poking up through, just having stone on top creates a dirt trap, and weeds constantly grow from just that. Treating the area with weed killer would result in going through several gallons of the stuff per week, at now close to $40 per gallon. Not sure what the solution is, yet, but hopefully I can find something!
We settled on this style of walkway a couple years ago. Here are a few tips. 1. Don't put the path so close to the house. You might be able to walk on it, but you cannot carry anything in the wall side hand without smacking the house. 2. Forget about plastic weed barrier. It doesn't work and you don't need it anyway. 3. Use steel landscaping border, not plastic. 4. Don't put sand around the pavers before the rock. 5. HD and Lowe's sell a polyprop paver base you can use instead of all that sand and rock. It's expensive, but it replaces a lot of steps and a lot of materials. I have about $800 worth of it in my garage waiting on the next project. 6. Get the ground sort of even and sloping away from the house, lay down the paver base, place the stones using a 2x2 to separate the pavers equally, then pour 1/2 or 3/4-inch chipped gravel (not rounded gravel) around the stones. Chipped stones interlock and stay in place while round stones never settle. I leave about 1/4-inch of the paver stones above the chipped stones.
We are new home owners. Thanks for this video. I wanted to ask would white rock be also practical to use. Also you used sand underneath tiles. Can you do without sand over the weed barrier. Again very nice video . Thank you
This feels like a very nice approach which I'll be adopting in my yard. Only question is why even both with the weed barrier? The only growth you'll need to deal with will be rooting on top of it. If anything super aggressive does manage to come up through compacted aggregate from underneath it would probably defeat a weed barrier anyway. I think they're pointless in this application.
Makes my back hurt now I’m older. I miss doing home projects. Guess I need a tiny downstairs bedroom home on wheels and a neighborly tiny community with a deck and shed. Then I can live easily as I age. I love his project. How much would this cost and labor.
In that type of pavers laying. Sand will not work in the long run. You’re better off using cement as your base. Remember, those are pretty much free standing pavers that are not compacted and they will uneven, even with moderate use. The sand will just eventually wash away.
I’m undecided on slope for a paver walkway like this. For impermeable surfaces like concrete, 100% you need a slope away from the house. But the layers of absorption built up by sand, gravel, and more sand between the pavers, I could see adequate drainage away from the house to the sloping grass.
Good question and I understand your concern but I assure you there will be no problem with moisture in my situation. One because I have a concrete foundation and two having rain hitting the pavers and pour away from the house will do nothing for this small of space. If it was a large paver patio area I would for sure angle the pavers away from the house. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching in any case.
@@BYOTools , You are incorrect about not needing to slope away from house. A concrete foundation is one of the reasons you need to slope away. Also, the best thing to do would have been to slope the dirt, then put 6 mil plastic, then put the road base, sand, etc. It’s really important to slope away and use plastic.
@@judyl.761 I'm curious about this. Since you suggest using base and sand on top of the plastic, weeds are going to take root in those materials. So what is the reason for the plastic? The only reason I can think of is to keep the base and sand from sinking into and mixing with the soil. Is that what you're thinking?
It looks good but I see a few issues with your methods so going to point them out for anyone reading this. What was the point of screeding the sand and getting it level and then tamping it with the compactor? The compactor is not going to keep it perfectly level like you had it, there will always be dips. Use the compactor for the stone, not the sand. Plus you’re walking on the sand after??? You should never walk on it once it’s leveled... put a couple pavers down first and walk on those and stay off the sand. Also why did you carelessly throw more sand on top and spread it with your hands? Now the sand that you leveled “perfectly” is irrelevant because now you’re forced to level each paver individually (and they’re certainly not consistent with the other stones in the walkway). Seems like you made more work for yourself and wasted time… The professional method is to the put pipes right into the stone layer first, bang them down to the correct height and then level the pipes with a pitch away from the foundation. Then throw sand down, screed and hand tamp it once being careful not to hit the pipes. Top it off with more sand and then screed one final time (btw you should only have one inch of sand not 4). Don’t tamp again at this point. The leveling job is now done so you’re ready to start laying pavers. In theory, once the pavers are in you shouldn’t have to touch them at all. And also each paver will settle at the same rate so they’ll stay level with each other. You really shouldn’t have to use a mallet on any of them unless you have to make minor adjustments. Proper prep work is key with a job like this. Also, pretty sure the weed mat is supposed to go on the bottom over the dirt, not in between the stone and sand. Am I missing something here?
Question! Great vid! and I like the Pittsburgh level too! (my home town!) How do you feel about adding a slight pitch away from the house foundation to help water drain away from the house? Is that necessary?
John that is exactly what I want to hear from all of my BYOT supporters. Thank you so much for watching and sharing it. That helps the channel in so many ways.
I have laid my pavers. I ordered tuscan fines, which contains an excessive amount of dust. Should i use the tuscan fines after i have shook off some of the dust, and then water it??
+1 sub. Most helpful video I’ve come across as a newbie DIYer. I’ve re-watched 10x times now, and I think my backyard will turn out a-ok. Wish I had your soil, though. CA Sonoma County adobe clay is no joke-especially with my maze of redwood roots.
Yes they will shift if left on top of bare dirt. They’ll float around especially when rain comes. U can buy the wall anchor that hold the pavers in one spot but I would hurry it essentially
Great instruction guide. Just a question - The area I intend is not a flat piece of ground, it more like a low arc shape and wondered if it is possible to lay the paving stones on this type of land. It is diffficultto make it flat because the waste/water pipes are just below the surface.
(I replied with the below comment to a sub-comment, but felt it may be important to add to the general comments, so I added it here as well for more to see) Wondering where the water will go once it penetrates the top layer of rock? The gravel had fines in it, and compacted, limits the air or void between them. Plus the dirt under the gravel is compacted level. Any water penetrating down to the dirt, will fan out i'd bet, and that means water going towards the house. I am not sure what climate this is in, but where I live in the north, this can lead to issues getting into winter and in thaw, especially if there is no french drain around the foundation. But - even with the french drain - I would also like to add, you likely don't want humidity in your foundation/basement walls either, so I suppose even areas without freeze, you'd want to make sure you have a 1" drop per each foot away of the house, for at leat the same depth of your basement below grade. (So if you basement is 5 feet below grade, then a 5 foot grade drop of 5 " would be great to keep water away from the house)
What is the system for water drainage away from house? Shouldn't the base be angled slightly, so that the water doesn't drain into the foundation of the house?
I dont have a slope like you do, so if I were to slope it away from the house, would I slope it with the rock base or sand with the pvc pipes? Oh and some solar lights would look great near the pavers. Great work. Thanks
@@BYOTools I would suggest an additional 18 inches away from the house as a minimum. Just because the gate is misplaced doesn't mean you should continue the mistakes made previously. Or you could open the gate to a larger paved area and bring the walkway out at an offset from the gate.
Hello, I wanted to look up the paver you listed but the link doesn't seem to work. Do you have a name or item # for it, that I can look for on HD website? Thanks
Hey Brent, pretty neat job, again ;) Just a quick question (it is not related to the main project this time) at 11:46, I could spot a few bottles of epoxy/glue. Isn't direct sunlight damaging it's consistency or fluidity on a long run? Or you don't generally have that much sunlight for which you should care? :) Cheers and thanks for teaching us!
As a South African, it makes me happy to hear Pata Pata (the song at the end) being played on an international platform
I know the feeling of forgetting a step when installing pavers. In my case, I had forgotten to put down the polypropylene paver base panel. I was wondering why I had to use so much sand. Realizing my error, I took up everything and redid it. And, yes, it was extremely hot when I did this.
Beautifully done, Brent. I always love your projects.
We all make mistakes sometimes Lisa but we just need to work through them. Sorry to hear it was HOT for you to haha! Makes the job harder that’s for sure :) thanks so much for the support,
The dog is the perfect supervisor, he needs to watch you more often.
But Kona just stood there and didn’t say a thing to me as I forgot the weed barrier. Apparently not the best supervisor and was lounging around on the job lol! Thanks so much for watching :)
@@BYOTools seems to me that’s what bosses do. Like my dogs they only say something if I’m doing it wrong lol
@@BYOTools Doggo had more important things on the mind, like food?
You should actually pitch the surface away from your house, so when it rains the water is flowing away from your foundation.
Yeah I was wondering when he was going to cover that step
Good point, but as all the layers are draining water (absorbent), wouldn't it be counterproductive to raise the level close to the house? if it was a solid concrete e.g. it should've been lean away from the house, for sue. I rather asking it then stating :/
I was going to ask about drainage. Since that a big problem I have with mine. It’s a swamp when it rains, that’s also the side where my supply (water) line, gas line and electric meter, and lan line from phone route to the home. My concern is I’ve had the supply line replace several years ago, I’m not so sure how deep it’s buried as well as about 15 years ago I did a poor job of putting in a French drain and now debunk under ground sprinkler.
Definitely noted.
Yep. You should do about 1/8th inch per foot of slope. Some people do 1/4th inch per foot. Either is fine. It's probably more important for a patio, though.
Love your buddy right there by your side keeping you company! Nothing beats a faithful best friend like that!
This is exactly what I am wanting to do in my backyard! Thank you!!
Just did a similar project myself. A couple differences I did were:
1. Put the weed barrier underneath the crushed gravel.
2. Used 4 inches of gravel.
3. Used a tamper which is fun and works just as well imo.
4. Used an inch of sand.
5. Made sure it was level but with a slight decline away from the house as well.
6. Used edging that had holes for stakes to keep the line secure and straight.
7. Used 12"x12" permeable pavers and marble chips around them. (Looks great except for when the sun hits the white marble chips it's kind of blinds me... oops.)
All in all well done. Thanks for sharing. Always good to see how others adjust for mistakes, which I thought you did very well.
I was just gonna say this with our using concrete as the base under the paver, it’s guaranteed weeds
@@chrismorton2741 between what layers would you say is optimal to put that weed barrier?
Thank you! This is the first video that explained screeding to where I understood it!
This young man have a beautiful melody voice 😊❗️love his demostración 👍🇦🇷 also😄
Quick tip - pull the tail gate off when shoveling out bulk material. Saves you from shoveling the material that extra distance. Also, it will be less work to shovel from in the truck.
Unloaders work great as well
Never thought about yanking tail gate off. Good idea
Dog keeps you company. So sweet.
Impressive! I wish all contractors did such detailed prep work and completion.
Great company to work with!!
Best Service in Houston, Texas !!
Air Duct Cleaning made my house smell so much better!
Call these guys they know what they are doing!!
The song at the end!! The South African in me loooved [!! Phataphata!
Nice little project man. Good curb appeal. I love any kind of hardscaping. Just a note thst I like to add about 1/8" slope away from the house so any water drains away elsewhere. Other than that its likely fine
When the dog mentioned "definitely overkill", his though is "no more sidewalk dirt for me to play anymore" lol
It looks harder than I thought. I thought you just remove grass, put some rocks and place the tiles on top😄. I learnt the right way.
This is what I want for the front of my house. I do have to hire someone to do for me, for my hubby has Parkinson's and he cannot do it. You did an amazing job.
Ahhh Love the dog! tx for having him in the video. My dog do gardening with me.
Looks really good man you are a perfectionist i can tell.
Looks amazing! Can't image that job in the blazing sun, though....phew, nice work, Brent!
Yep it was a rough one with the sun Kathleen but we got through it haha! Thanks so much for watching
One of my favorite building projects! Especially with recycled materials.
I was taught to add a few bags of cement to the sub base to stabilise it so heavy rain won't scour out underneath
I am actually commenting instead of saying first not gunna lie you are just so good at this man keep up the great work
Great to hear man and thanks so much for your support. Truly appreciated and thanks for being on top of your video notifications :)
nice project with just one video and without part 1 of 2 and 2 of 3
This kept me mesmerized. Great work. Thanks for all the information.
Important to note that it should be sloped ever so slightly AWAY from the foundation, aka: positive drainage, to prevent water from going into the basement in areas with rain or wet ground.
I see pup is there to supervise... 😆
Lol, the Makeba at the end caught me by surprise there lol
Thanks for sharing your lovely tip .will try. To remember now friends ❤️👍🙏👌
I'm wanting to do something similar with my front walkway, but after putting together a test area a couple years back when I first bought the house, I've found that while the week barrier keeps weeds from poking up through, just having stone on top creates a dirt trap, and weeds constantly grow from just that. Treating the area with weed killer would result in going through several gallons of the stuff per week, at now close to $40 per gallon. Not sure what the solution is, yet, but hopefully I can find something!
👍 Danke fürs Hochladen!
👍 Thanks for uploading!
👍 Very good and beautiful, thank you!
👍 Sehr gut und schön, danke!
Love to hear Miriam Makeba in the soundtrack.
hey brent,i love the fence and i love this style of walkway. its simple. just my style. i think ill do this all the time now.
We settled on this style of walkway a couple years ago. Here are a few tips. 1. Don't put the path so close to the house. You might be able to walk on it, but you cannot carry anything in the wall side hand without smacking the house. 2. Forget about plastic weed barrier. It doesn't work and you don't need it anyway. 3. Use steel landscaping border, not plastic. 4. Don't put sand around the pavers before the rock. 5. HD and Lowe's sell a polyprop paver base you can use instead of all that sand and rock. It's expensive, but it replaces a lot of steps and a lot of materials. I have about $800 worth of it in my garage waiting on the next project. 6. Get the ground sort of even and sloping away from the house, lay down the paver base, place the stones using a 2x2 to separate the pavers equally, then pour 1/2 or 3/4-inch chipped gravel (not rounded gravel) around the stones. Chipped stones interlock and stay in place while round stones never settle. I leave about 1/4-inch of the paver stones above the chipped stones.
@@dchall8 thanks for this. i dont know how to do concrete and this method is achievable.
@@spicynomad I don't do concrete either. I do it the way I described.
We are new home owners. Thanks for this video. I wanted to ask would white rock be also practical to use. Also you used sand underneath tiles. Can you do without sand over the weed barrier. Again very nice video . Thank you
Nicely done!
This feels like a very nice approach which I'll be adopting in my yard. Only question is why even both with the weed barrier? The only growth you'll need to deal with will be rooting on top of it. If anything super aggressive does manage to come up through compacted aggregate from underneath it would probably defeat a weed barrier anyway. I think they're pointless in this application.
what about levelling the tiles a little bit away from the house in order to prevent raining water to fall back to the house?
Love your shirt 😎
Makes my back hurt now I’m older. I miss doing home projects. Guess I need a tiny downstairs bedroom home on wheels and a neighborly tiny community with a deck and shed. Then I can live easily as I age. I love his project. How much would this cost and labor.
Very helpful, thanks so much! I'm not making a walkway but an area for large potted plants, but I'm assuming the construction is similar.
Thank you for the tutorial and the explanation !!
No problem hamdi and thanks so much for watching. Greatly appreciate the support.
Lookings amazing.
You inspire me and coincidentally doing exactly the same Sexy Beast. But with two tiles and natural white stones embedded in between
In that type of pavers laying. Sand will not work in the long run. You’re better off using cement as your base. Remember, those are pretty much free standing pavers that are not compacted and they will uneven, even with moderate use. The sand will just eventually wash away.
Thank you for this video! Got done with my walkway! It was very helpful. Wish I could share a picture here
You might want to route the runnoff from that downspout out to a rain garden type thing.
Question, do you not need any gradient on the side to run the water away from your property when it rains? You are doing your pavers perfectly flat.
Yes he should have sloped away from the house.
I’m undecided on slope for a paver walkway like this. For impermeable surfaces like concrete, 100% you need a slope away from the house. But the layers of absorption built up by sand, gravel, and more sand between the pavers, I could see adequate drainage away from the house to the sloping grass.
Good question and I understand your concern but I assure you there will be no problem with moisture in my situation. One because I have a concrete foundation and two having rain hitting the pavers and pour away from the house will do nothing for this small of space. If it was a large paver patio area I would for sure angle the pavers away from the house. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching in any case.
@@BYOTools , You are incorrect about not needing to slope away from house. A concrete foundation is one of the reasons you need to slope away. Also, the best thing to do would have been to slope the dirt, then put 6 mil plastic, then put the road base, sand, etc. It’s really important to slope away and use plastic.
@@judyl.761 I'm curious about this. Since you suggest using base and sand on top of the plastic, weeds are going to take root in those materials. So what is the reason for the plastic? The only reason I can think of is to keep the base and sand from sinking into and mixing with the soil. Is that what you're thinking?
Nicely and Nicely and more Nicely
Nice walkway!
Thank you - helpful video! How has the walkway held up over time? Is there anything you would do differently in hindsight? Thanks!!
It looks good but I see a few issues with your methods so going to point them out for anyone reading this.
What was the point of screeding the sand and getting it level and then tamping it with the compactor? The compactor is not going to keep it perfectly level like you had it, there will always be dips. Use the compactor for the stone, not the sand. Plus you’re walking on the sand after??? You should never walk on it once it’s leveled... put a couple pavers down first and walk on those and stay off the sand. Also why did you carelessly throw more sand on top and spread it with your hands? Now the sand that you leveled “perfectly” is irrelevant because now you’re forced to level each paver individually (and they’re certainly not consistent with the other stones in the walkway). Seems like you made more work for yourself and wasted time…
The professional method is to the put pipes right into the stone layer first, bang them down to the correct height and then level the pipes with a pitch away from the foundation. Then throw sand down, screed and hand tamp it once being careful not to hit the pipes. Top it off with more sand and then screed one final time (btw you should only have one inch of sand not 4). Don’t tamp again at this point. The leveling job is now done so you’re ready to start laying pavers. In theory, once the pavers are in you shouldn’t have to touch them at all. And also each paver will settle at the same rate so they’ll stay level with each other. You really shouldn’t have to use a mallet on any of them unless you have to make minor adjustments. Proper prep work is key with a job like this.
Also, pretty sure the weed mat is supposed to go on the bottom over the dirt, not in between the stone and sand. Am I missing something here?
Snail- you make some good points. Can I contact you for some pointers on some projects please?
AGREED. Never Tamp down the sand, only the rock.
Nice job Brent!!👍👍
Thanks so much Bryan and thanks for the continued support.
@@BYOTools you are welcome!!👍
U killin it..thx
Great video...just wondering why you wouldn't want a small grade away from your structure for drainage purposes?
Well done. Great step by step.
Great job 👍
Every project is a beauty! Great work!!
Well explained thank you!
Great job! Could you make a video showing how to install a French drain?
Kona won this video. Love that freaking dog.
He just loves hanging with dad during construction projects around the house haha! Thanks for watching Jake.
thankyou so much beta gee!
Very nice!
Question! Great vid! and I like the Pittsburgh level too! (my home town!)
How do you feel about adding a slight pitch away from the house foundation to help water drain away from the house?
Is that necessary?
Always great, Brent! I forwarded this episode to a friend, hoping you don't mind! 💫
John that is exactly what I want to hear from all of my BYOT supporters. Thank you so much for watching and sharing it. That helps the channel in so many ways.
I have laid my pavers. I ordered tuscan fines, which contains an excessive amount of dust. Should i use the tuscan fines after i have shook off some of the dust, and then water it??
Nice work! I didn't see that you sloped the walkway to the grass . Is that a necessary thing to do to have water drain away from the foundation?
can you post a video of the downspout drain project you did? am interested in what you did. thanks.
Great job
Um... I just compacted the ground, set pavers in level, used anchors around boarders.. still good 10 years later.
Um… good for you
Now you have to finish the wall siding all the way to the back to make it more appealing.
+1 sub. Most helpful video I’ve come across as a newbie DIYer. I’ve re-watched 10x times now, and I think my backyard will turn out a-ok. Wish I had your soil, though. CA Sonoma County adobe clay is no joke-especially with my maze of redwood roots.
Well done. Will the pavers move if they are not on sand and cement?
Yes they will shift if left on top of bare dirt. They’ll float around especially when rain comes. U can buy the wall anchor that hold the pavers in one spot but I would hurry it essentially
Thank you
Very the perfectionist guy
Do you leave or remove the black rubber after your done?
Great instruction guide. Just a question - The area I intend is not a flat piece of ground, it more like a low arc shape and wondered if it is possible to lay the paving stones on this type of land. It is diffficultto make it flat because the waste/water pipes are just below the surface.
(I replied with the below comment to a sub-comment, but felt it may be important to add to the general comments, so I added it here as well for more to see)
Wondering where the water will go once it penetrates the top layer of rock?
The gravel had fines in it, and compacted, limits the air or void between them. Plus the dirt under the gravel is compacted level. Any water penetrating down to the dirt, will fan out i'd bet, and that means water going towards the house.
I am not sure what climate this is in, but where I live in the north, this can lead to issues getting into winter and in thaw, especially if there is no french drain around the foundation.
But - even with the french drain - I would also like to add, you likely don't want humidity in your foundation/basement walls either, so I suppose even areas without freeze, you'd want to make sure you have a 1" drop per each foot away of the house, for at leat the same depth of your basement below grade. (So if you basement is 5 feet below grade, then a 5 foot grade drop of 5 " would be great to keep water away from the house)
Love the music during the finished product of each video!
Very nice ,
Why did you put sand on top of the weed blocker? Do I have to put extra sand if I put the weed blocker between base and sand? Thanks
How have these held up? I'm looking into using them in my house.
great job!
That looks great! I might try this.
Great to hear Daniel and thanks so much for watching.
What is the system for water drainage away from house? Shouldn't the base be angled slightly, so that the water doesn't drain into the foundation of the house?
How much a piece for pavers?
He is cute and I love his calm voice!!!
sei bravissimo complimenti
I dont have a slope like you do, so if I were to slope it away from the house, would I slope it with the rock base or sand with the pvc pipes? Oh and some solar lights would look great near the pavers. Great work. Thanks
He definitely should have sloped it away from the house. So important.
Depends. That’s why he used the drain rocks so water can freely drain into it and not create a puddle flood of water
It’s also preference… I don’t like sloped cement or this project. I like it leveled!
Awesome
nice! looks great!
Is the edging necessary if it's just flower beds next to the path?
It looks good, however if space allows, suggest an additional 12" offset from the house.
It didn’t in this case since the pavers are based on the side gate as well. Thanks for watching and the support Allen.
@@BYOTools I would suggest an additional 18 inches away from the house as a minimum. Just because the gate is misplaced doesn't mean you should continue the mistakes made previously. Or you could open the gate to a larger paved area and bring the walkway out at an offset from the gate.
I assume your next small project will be replacing the missing siding above your beautiful new walkway.
Is this walkway made with a slope down?
How do the porcelain pavers fare in a northern climate with freeze thaw in winter?
I was wondering if you could share the quantity of crushed stone, stand and stone you used for this project
Can this type of paver be installed with cement
Hello, I wanted to look up the paver you listed but the link doesn't seem to work. Do you have a name or item # for it, that I can look for on HD website? Thanks
Hey Brent, pretty neat job, again ;)
Just a quick question (it is not related to the main project this time) at 11:46, I could spot a few bottles of epoxy/glue. Isn't direct sunlight damaging it's consistency or fluidity on a long run? Or you don't generally have that much sunlight for which you should care? :) Cheers and thanks for teaching us!