I appreciate all of your comments. I read them all but I'm sorry that I am unable to respond to each one. I'm rather overwhelmed by the response to this video. thank you 🙏 ETA: I take it back--I appreciate *most* of your comments. You may not like the term "sewist" but is has been around for many years. No one is forcing you to use it. Also use of the word "lie" was meant as hyperbole. I will no longer respond to comments about these things.
I was a sewing teacher for many years and would like to share with you the history of a couple of these "lies". In the 1970s people who sewed outside of factories suddenly had access to a wide variety of knit fabrics that had not been available to them before. There were even fabric stores that sprang up to focus on selling knit fabrics. (Remember Stretch and Sew Stores anyone?) Many people who knew how to sew woven fabrics took classes at these stores to learn how to sew knits. The yarns in knit fabrics are not as tightly spun as the ones used in woven fabrics, so they required a new type of sewing machine needle that would not cut the yarns of knit fabrics and cause laddering/runs and ruin the integrity of the fabric. So ballpoint needles were invented to be used in the apparel industry and later made available to people sewing outside of factories/ at home. Students had to be encouraged to remember to change their sewing machine needle with each project so that the needle type was appropriate to the type of fabric it was sewing. With time, the advice evolved from "Change your needle to suit the fabric of each new project" to "Change your needle with each new project" and some vital information that accompanied the advice was lost. Some people found this advice to be so onerous ( and didn't follow it, so had problems with skipped stitches and cutting yarns/creating holes in their knit fabrics) that the companies that made needles for the home sewing market invented the "universal " sewing machine needle. A universal needle is designed to have a narrower point than a ballpoint needle, so it can sew woven fabrics without skipped stitches, and it also has a rounded tip, so it will not cut the yarns of knit fabrics. So, should you put in a new needle for each new project? I think the answer is that it depends on what results you are getting from the needle you are currently using. I used to start every new sewing class by telling my students that about 95% of all their stitich quality problems could be solved by just re-threading their machines and another 4% would probably be solved by changing their needle. (I was taught this by the women of my family who all sew: When you have a stitch quality issue, re-thread the machine and if that doesn't solve the problem, change your needle. It is probably the best advice I have ever received about stitch quality and it has served me and my students well.) Another gem of sewing wisdom I learned early on was learning to re-thread my machine very quickly. I worked in a Jantzen factory one year and the first thing they insisted we learn was how to re-thread our machines in less than ten seconds, basically without having to think about it. This training made me realize how much time I wasted sewing at home every time my stitch quality was off and I futtzed around trying to avoid re-threading my machine. So this was a skill I insisted all my students learn because most home sewers avoid re-threading their sewing machines as though it is an onerous chore. In my classes we do drills to learn how to re-thread our machines until everyone can do it in less than 10 seconds. (It usually takes less than thirty minutes for everyone in the room to learn this skill.) I consistently got feedback that this was one of the most useful basic things my students learned that improved their sewing.
Coming out of the depression era my grandmothers de-constructed everything. Buttons, zippers and other notions were reused. Undamaged fabric was remade into kids play clothes. Scraps into quilts anything left over went into pillows. I have even seen my maternal grandmother un weave a long strip, pull out several long threads reply two or three together then use a steel hook to crochet a dress belt loop or button loop. She worked in a tailors shop and often has to use what she was given to work with.
Wonderful video Sara. It always amazes me what shoddy quality I tolerate in ready to wear garments when I’m so darn picky about what I make. I should be kinder to my sewing self!💕🇨🇦
It occurred to me to compare my sewn items to ready to wear in my closet. I was shocked at the workmanship in some of my favorite items that I’ve been buying once it really looked at them. It has helped me be more realistic about my sewing expectations.
I've sewn for over 40 years. I use more pins now than I ever did when I was a new sewist.😊 Well actually I've learned to live clips lol. I will say the one must is pressing. I have learned not to skip that step.
I hate ironing so I’ve gotten a little iron just for the hobby side of needing one. I’ve tried to let this step not be a must but have learned that it is not a rewarding endeavor. Just bought myself an ironing blanket as well. That little iron is such a great tool that I’d like to iron bigger things with it as well so I needed something bigger than a pillow to iron on. I used to use a folded sheet but that’s not always handy so I caved and got myself an ironing blanket. Pressing really is a good option to not skip lol
Your "re-homing" I consider as continuing the tradition of my mother, grandmother and great-grandmother (the last two lived the great depression as daughter and mother) in what I've heard called today "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle" slogan.
Stay stitching on necklines - per my home economics teacher back in the 70s (who learned it herself in the 40s) - is to prevent the fabric from tearing beyond the seamline location when you clip the curved neckline of the garment in order to attach the often straight edged collar. As for seam finishes, pinking shears are my friend. I use them on nearly every thing that I don't french seam as I just can't afford nor have space for a serger.
I used to sew square dance outfits and used tons of pins. When gathering, I pinned the center of the fabric, then the next half, then the next down to the half inch. This made my gathers perfectly spaced all around the skirt on all the tiers. Using lots of pins makes you more in control.
That’s my technique too. It’s logical for even spread of gathering. I have a Vogue Belleville Sassoon ball gown I made for my sister in the 80’s to thank for that. Even the Parisian couture atelier ladies would have baulked at it. Immense metres of gathering.
The use of a lot of pins is time consuming. So in industry, it is discouraged. The sewists are doing the same garment over and over so they would get good at putting things together without lots of pins.
I'm so glad that I never heard that rule about always sewing a hem on the outside! I've sewn fron the inside of garments almost exclusively for decades. This makes me confident that I am actually catching the edge of the hem.
Thank you for every one of these rebuttals! I learned to sew from my mother, who sewed for a living off and on throughout her life. I'm now 78 myself and I see so many new tools out there and how-to's, but I still use an ancient wooden knitting needle to turn narrow things inside out, my mother's best scissors that are a funny colour but work better than any of the expensive new ones I've bought, and, probably the funniest thing is that I have never had a serger. I double stitch or make French seams. My sewing machine is a Sears electric from about 1969 and was the last all metal model built I understand, and it's never been professionally serviced either. Still does what I need it to do and it has made clothes, soft furnishings, drapes, pillow cases, cushion covers, stuffed animals, Barbie wardrobes, other doll clothes and actual soft dolls, repaired innumerable garments, and saved us a LOT of money. The only "new" tool I've found worth the bother since I first used a treadle Singer about 70 years ago is the seam ripper. 😂 Just do what works for you is the best advice, especially since the advent of the internet where there are a zillion people teaching so-called best practices, available to everyone with a computer. This video is one of the good ones!😊👍💖
Thanks for that tip, I'll try it too 😀 I recently updated my computer software and now have Publisher, my intention is to create a booklet with all these tips in so that I can find them easily - if I go online I get distracted by fabric stores 😂
This was great! I’ve only been sewing for myself for 1 year, self taught using RUclips. I always sew my hem on the wrong side, but have felt guilty about it. After watching this, I will no longer feel guilty.
I have been a home sewer for 57 years. When I started, my only source of information was the pattern instructions. It would have been wonderful to have had access to all the videos on RUclips that new sewists now have. Trial and error really isn't an efficient method of learning anything.
I think a lot of these rules are so that you can get the best outcome as a beginner, but that as you gain more experience you learn what rules you can bend or break to suit your own sewing practice. Or knitting practice.
I agree. Been sewing all my life. Just took a beginner quilting class with other seniors. The teacher gave rules that I thought were too strict ( I didn’t say anything, please respect the teacher). After a few classes I realized these beginner sewers need a simple forward instruction to learn to sew (too many choices confused them). The later classes everyone was gaining confidence and we started trying different things. Wonderful class at so many different levels of knowledge. 😊
Over the years I have practiced many couture techniques and different short cuts as well. I use pins, machine and hand basting as well as temporary glue as necessary. I firmly believe that we should have a more positive attitude towards our craft. We do not have failures, we make prototypes. You can learn a lot from a garment that you do not want to wear, it may be the colour, fabric drape, style or sewing technique. Identify the issues and you can do better next time. We never see the design stages for garments we buy in the shops, many of which will have gone through multiple test versions before they are offered for sale. As to the rest of your points I find stay stitching useful if tacking a garment together to test the fit. Cutting on the cross grain depends on the fabric, for tightly woven fabric it does not make much of a difference. Loosely woven fabric may have a much stronger warp that may affect the fabric drape. As to cost yes it can be expensive, but so are lots of other hobbies, at least I am making something I can keep or give as a gift.
I loved this, Sara! I hope all new sewists will watch and take these to heart! They will have a much more enjoyable experience learning to sew, and it will definitely take the “pressure” off! I especially love Number Three! That has always been a huge pet peeve of mine - “this is the ONLY way to do this technique”. There are multiple ways to perform a technique, and, everyone needs to find what works for them! And, I also love the “perfectionist” one! If everything I made had to be perfect, I would never complete anything! 😂Besides, I love seeing the “hand” in “handmade”! Also, thank you for the shout-out! 💗
I work at a fabric store and love learning from EVERYONE however there were a lot of staff and customers that were sewing snobs (LOL) I see them as closed minded and miss the adventure of our hobby. Rules Rules Rules -- you learn them so you can break them.. take care
In the past I’ve asked for help a few times at the local Joann Fabrics store, and each time I was met with ridicule and judgmental criticism. I don’t ask for help anymore and really only shop there if I need something quickly. The few online shops I frequent have been more courteous and helpful via email and phone call than any in-person encounter I’ve experienced at Joann’s or elsewhere.
The worst snobs are found in sewing machine shops - you're not allowed to touch their "precious" machines and they insist on doing demos instead of letting you try the machines yourself. I'm walking out next time I experience this as I'm not prepared to take home a machine I find I can't tolerate in practice myself.
@@kat_thefruitbat I love it when people ask me questions at joanns. I don't work there but I'll occasionally have someone asked me is so many question and I'm happy to answer them.
Fun video. I’m quite a bit older than you and as a child my grandmother and mother sewed a lot of our clothes; the seams were never finished. Even when I took sewing in junior high (early ‘70s) I do not remember any teaching on finishing seams. I just recently have gotten a serger but have been finishing seams in other ways for many years.
Yup, pinking sheers work very well on seams to prevent raveling. Also, you don’t have the additional bulk of thread on your seams, which makes a difference when sewing sheer fabrics 😊
Gosh! Thank goodness I never knew about some of these rules. I agree with your opinions. My Mom taught me how to sew 60 years ago and I still hear her advice in my head as I sew. However, a lot has changed since the 60s. I started sewing again after I retired. I've had a lot of fun learning new techniques and how to work with different fabrics. I know the basics, but I can do something different if it works for me. 🙂
If I make a minor mistake in my sewing, eg a bit of caught up seam in my lining, I consider how much time it would take to fix versus how much it would annoy me if I didnt fix it . Lucky for me I'm not a perfectionist 😃. Thanks for your content, I really enjoy your videos
Such an interesting and fun video! I agree that most of these are lies. I do finish my seams because when I first started sewing and didn’t have a serger, I tried to zig zag the seams in a tank top made out of a viscose and my beautiful, beautiful top didn’t survive many washes. As far as I’m concerned, there are no hard rules when it comes to sewing - you just have to do what works for you and I get really annoyed when people say your MUST do something a certain way or else your sewing isn’t up to par or something. I’m also with you about photographs and sharing on social media. I tend to follow people who share their makes worn on their body and without too much “editing” and posing. And that is how I post my pictures. How am I supposed to see how the pockets lie on a pair of pants if all your photos have your hands in them? I totally get how some people aren’t comfortable modelling or sharing an “imperfect” garment, but I don’t usually follow those accounts. 💞
I teach music. Most of my students are adult beginners. I tell them that they are doing something instead of consuming things…and helping their brains work. This is why I have a huge studio with happy students
Great video Sara, love your attitude . Sewing should be fun and not restricted by unnecessary rules, I do stay stitch necklines when I'm using viscose and I actually enjoy doing french seams, as for hemming garments on the right side in my mind that is crazy !!!
Some very good sensible points. Thank you. I always use loads of pins - better to pin something and avoid it shifting than sewing it wrong and having to unpick it, but that’s just my view. The elastic advice is a really good one. I always sew my hems on the wrong side - I do a much neater job that way. And as for pattern instructions, I am currently sewing a pattern where the instructions for the pockets JUST DON’T WORK! After 4 attempts I just put the pockets in in a different way and they worked. There really is no one way to do things.
If your stitches are messed up, you can't keep a strait line, or your thread is breaking - a dull needle may be the culprit. Try changing it. If switching needle types, the needle you're taking out can be put back in the appropriate case, backwards, to show yourself it has been used. I store "dull" needles on a magnet for re-use when sewing velcro or through paper. "Dead" needles go in a pill bottle for eventual disposal.
@@marieg2815 Upside down would leads to holes in fingers - for me. That's why I switched to "backwards" or the flat size forward. Let visibly obvious, but if your needles have a coloured stripe, it means the stripe won't be visible on any used ones.
Thank you for this…I still consider myself a beginner, maybe a fresh intermediate…but I sometimes feel some of the sewists on youtube seem to forget the struggles they endured at the beginning…they put too high a bar on perfection which can cause beginners to just give up. I simply try to do better on each garment I sew. Your comments and videos are very much appreciated! Thank you.
Sara, what a FANTASTIC video!! So funny. I had to laugh about following the pattern instructions to the T. I RARELY do that and I almost never follow the fabric layouts. I am always trying to conserve fabric. I loved this video! Thanks for sharing.👍
Note: I filmed this before all of the TCDO plagiarism drama. Just wanted to make it clear that I'm not referring to any of that in this video as it happened after I created my video.
Man, I ran into that drama on accident looking for information on how to adjust pants patterns. I'm re-entering into sewing after a long break and the top down method was down right confusingto me. The drama associated with it was a little comical, after all, we are all creating. It's sad.
I'm 66yo, started on a Singer treadle sewing machine as a kid. I've learned a couple new tricks from your videos. Just bought my first serger. Thanks for your tutorials and I enjoy watching them. I use lots of pins and clips.
BRAV-O, Sara!!!!! When I was learning to quilt several years ago, the major message I kept hearing was that intersecting seams HAD TO MATCH PERFECTLY OR THEY WOULD STAND OUT LIKE A SORE THUMB AND BE EXTREMELY NOTICEABLE. I understand the need for careful cutting and sewing techniques, the world isn't going to end if there are some slight imperfections in a quilt top. I like the Amish way of thinking: Only God is perfect! Amish women will intentionally put a slight imperfection in a quilt or garment to remember who is actually perfect - God alone. So, once I got over the lie of quilt block perfection, quilting became much less stressful and much more enjoyable. Thank you for making this video! 🥰
I agree with you. My mother was a sewing teacher who made patterns of mens suites, intricate dresses, did exhibitions, and designed and sewed trousos. Everything:- the sewing, embroidery, pyjamas, sheets towels everything. She was very good. I learned very little from her because she was into ripping what I did. Nothing was ever up to her standard, she would take over what I was doing and give me insignificant chore to do. However, I have learned to sew, embroider and many other things my pears are shocked that I can do. Unfortunately most of it after she died. Perfection is a killer of doing ones best. This video is very good, thank you.😊
Similar story here, I come from a family of professional seamstresses, my grandmother, her mother, etc.... I was taught many crafts as well as sewing, the older women thought I was stupid and lazy when I refused to learn tatting. This never stopped me I continued to sew, knit crochet, embroider. Have been sewing now for over 60 years, still learning something new from both young and old seamstresses. I basically just shrugged off their opinions and did exactly what I live doing.
Thank you! In the 60s and 70s my mom and grandma sewed all my clothes and most of my brother’s. They did not finish seams, may be zig zag on fabric that would fray a lot. The clothes never fell apart at the seams during washing, even with the ringer washing machine! I have just started sewing again after watching many RUclips sewing blogs. I have not finished the garment I started because I forgot to finish the raglan shoulder seams. I would need to rip it apart and start over. I will now skip it and continue on! Thank you for reminding me that everything does not need to be perfect or use techniques that others are using.
it's so interesting that others have the same experience with their relatives. i guess it really was common that they taught sewing in schools but not something as basic as finishing seams! i had always assumed that my mom was an outlier, once i learned to sew.
I always felt that my machine skills were very poor. That is until I watched an expert - no, not someone who sits sewing only one tiny part of a garment at very high speed. I mean things like machining the waistband onto your skirt. This girl was chosen from all the machinists available in the factory as she produced the best results, according to the designer who showing us how to make the garment. What I saw amased me. She stitched a little then fiddled a little, etc, to get it positioned just right AND she machined it SLOWLY. Wow just like I would do it. Now I am much more confident about how I use my machine, and how slowly I sew. All of the items you listed I totally agree with.
I’m in bed recovering from a minor surgical procedure and I was going to look at various sewing blogs. I saw almost every day. And I truly enjoyed your video on the nine myths very well done so I’m going to look at some of your other videos I’ve been selling since I was nine and I’m 73 and I have broken many rules. Sometimes out of ignorance. Sometimes because I thought I could do it better in many times I couldn’t other times I couldn’t. My mothers friends were terrible to me. You should’ve done this you didn’t do that 2 1/2 inch ham is required blah blah blah blah blah I was the one who got excepted into FIT not them.
As a newbie, so glad I found you. I’ve discovered I enjoy my time with my sewing machine; we are pals and I crackup every time I make a mistake! It’s soooo therapeutic.
Haha, I finally gave in and bought the purple thing! Totally unnecessary, but I was either reaching for whatever tool was closest or having to stop the flow of my sewing to find a tool that was suitable for the task, so I went for it. The one advantage about the purple thing is, well, it's purple! I can find it right away and now I don't worry about breaking the tip of my scissors or piercing my fabric. But you can totally use whatever other pointy tool you have handy for the same purpose.
Great video. You brought up a lot of important points. I taught sewing and quilting for many years and I always told my students that there are many ways to do the same thing, just pick the one that works the best for you. My mom told me "You don't sew because it saves you money, you sew because you love to."
Just a quick note about using seam rippers as your "extra finger" instead of a purple thang. The main drawback is that if you get too close and hit the needle you can break the needle. My solution is to use a bamboo skewer from the kitchen. No cost as I already have them, and a little softer. Happy sewing :-)
These are very interesting comments, and I tend to agree with them, just for the simple reason that the message is that "there is no rule that cannot be broken or written in stone". What works for the sewist is good enough, if that action allows them to achieve the same results. I do stay stich the necklines and all parts of the garment that can be stretched during manipulations. I think that stay stich is an optional and useful step to save some time at the end. But, same as above, if anyone can handle the fabric(s) or bias cuts without it, it is wonderful and does not contradict anything you so wisely have shared in this video. Thanks for sharing!
1) Agree! Inside finishing is not directly proportional to the durability of the garment. 2) I find that I use fewer pins as I become more experienced, mostly to save time when sewing. 3) Absolutely 💯! There are lots of ways to do almost anything, especially fitting. 4) True! Some of the tools I’ve bought have been very helpful others, not so much. 5) Agree, Some items definitely just need to be discarded/recycled/gifted. 6) I’ve come across some bad instructions. Sometimes you just know a better ways! 7) Ha! My closet if full of wearable garments WITH mistakes, and I never point them out when I wear them. 8) I only hem on the top side when using a twin needle! 9) I have no perfect makes, so I would never share if I waited for a perfect make. Great video!!
I’m glad to know I’m not alone. I learned sewing in home Econ first then just went from there - you can’t be afraid to think your way through a project or plan and execute based on what you already know, practice makes permanent.
I love that you did this! The highest hurdle any fabric artist needs to clear is the Perfection bar! My grandmother made me pick out zippers repeatedly until everything was perfectly straight. I can still remember one dress I had to pick out so many times that I ruined the fabric and threw away the entire project. Now, I own and operate an old-school costume shop. I make all the costumes we rent to the public and amateur theatrical groups. Perfection had to go the way of the dodo to complete a dozen copies of any garment in a reasonable amount of time. If it looks decent and functions, it's good to go. In 33 years, no customer has ever complained about a wobbly top stitch. Most are amazed at the quality of my work!
I’ve made mistakes in sewing and it is what it is and I still love the garments I made and wear them. I also like to dupe high end designs I love. The cost of the dupes is a fraction of the designer one with the added bonus of picking fabrics in colors I would wear as opposed to what choice the designer has. I saw an Alice and Olivia embroidered cotton shirt I died over. I thrifted one similar to it and embroidered it myself. I am always open to new ways of doing things and learning techniques. For me the devil is in the details.
I did that same thing! I set in a sleeve inside-out, THREE TIMES. Knowing that my patient, good-humored nature might see me through any number of repeats, I stopped for the night, and made up 2 new sewing rules for myself. 1). If I make the same mistake three times, I stop sewing for the evening. 2). If a garment isn't finished by Wednesday, midnight, it's not going to the ball that weekend. These rules enriched my life.
I use a seam gauge as a guiding tool, especially when sewing gathers. It has a wider base, keeps things flat and smooth. I try to avoid buying gadgets that will just end up being clutter. When I learned to sew, in school, we didn't have sergers either and finishing seams was either zig zag or nothing.
Great video. I have one rule re sewing - do what works for me. I am not great at taking pictures. I usually forget about it - I do take mainly on hanger with occasional follow-up on me. I usually show them on me in my videos, though.
My dad was a math major, and I can tell you for a fact: there are multiple ways to find a solution to a problem. To say there's only ONE WAY to perform a skill is not open minded and can actually hinder people from learning new crafts. Allowing people to come to different paths to get to the same outcome allows for new ideas and even better processes in the long run.
My friend just uses her zigzag sewing scissors for finishing just about all of her seams on her garments. At first I kind off quietly thought to myself she will regret it. But her garments last as long as mine. So, it does work.
Thank you for sharing. I stopped doing sewing projects for a while because I thought they had to be perfect according to the pattern, which made me lose interest. However, I now view mistakes as learning opportunities, not just in sewing but in other forms of art as well. This change in mindset has been helpful.
In 2020 I started learning how to sew and so far I have absorbed so much knowledge. Recently I learned that polyester fabric AKA platstic is very toxic to humans so now I only sew with natural fabrics. Linen and silk is not cheap so I stay stitch and overlock every pattern piece because I do not want to risk ruining my expensive fabric. I just finished my first ever dress pattern and I love the way it turned out and I actually wore it to work. The dress pattern required a lining so I made the decision to stay stitch and overlock all of the edges of the pattern pieces. People go back and forth about finishing or not finishing seams inside the lining but I figured that the seams will be rubbing together when the garment is washed and that will destroy the seams. Better Safe than Sorry!
Hi Sparkle-Butterfly, have you found Denver Fabrics? They have great prices on silk, linen, wool. I have been happy with the fabric and serve from them. I order online, and the colors and patterns are very true.
Finishing seams is more to hold up in the washing machine, in historical garments lots of seams were left raw even up through the 1950s. Thrifting makes it easy to get fabric cheap. It can, but you have to work at it and be willing to make things out of fabrics that have stains, or that are the wrong weights or don't have enough of the right grain line. If your plus size getting enough material on grain that isn't stained to make full garments might be a challenge.
Instead of the 'purple thingy', I use an old Tupperware Citrus peeler &/or the green one for pushing small air bubbles out when canning. Works great & I already own them. Love your content. Thank You !!!
First, I love the 3-foot rule. Makes sense to me. I recently made my own pattern for a pullover top with scalloped neck edge. I didn't have enough fabric to lay out the pattern on the lengthwise grain so using the crosswise grain worked perfectly. It is a little summer top, rayon fabric that washes like a breeze and the grainline does not interfere with the garment at all. Comfy and casual. Thanks for the tips.. 💐
Here’s one: understitching stops a facing from flipping out. In my experience, nothing stops a facing from flipping out! I have always stay stitched when told, but now I’m thinking I won’t bother, so thanks to the person who said that. Also I’ve made lots of garments in quilting cotton. I work in a fabric store and can’t resist some of the beautiful patterns and colours.
I noticed years ago that my facings would always flip up at the back of the neck. Now I always extended the facing edge down about 4 or 5 inches to make it look like ready made and the extra length and weight stopped that from happening. I leave the edge of the shoulder seam the same then at center back I extend the outer line of the facing about 5 inches then use a small kitchen plate for the curve to make it look nice.
Sorry, but I've always found that understitching makes a much nicer edge for a facing, and they don't roll out for me. It takes such a little bit of time to do it, and it's worth it. I've seen so many garments that looked homemade because of omitting the understitching.
Experienced sewers do not use a lot of pins? Seriously? LOL! I have a degree in Fashion Design and a second degree in Accessories design from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. I also had worked 12 years at a theatrical Broadway costume company called Barbara Matera Ltd where we made costumes for Broadway shows, movies, ballets, operas and TV shows. Not only was I trained in college to use lots of pins but when I use to work at the professional costume company were were trained there to pin cut patterned fabric an inch apart on the bias in the seam allowance. Pinning has always been very important. Especially if you are flat lining the cut patterns. I'm very sorry if I sounded obnoxious about it. It's just pinning was ingrained into me for many decades. I know that there are special quilter's clips nowadays that you can buy and used to replace pinning, especially if you are trying to sew multiple layers or extra thick fabrics. And that's totally OK to do. No shame in doing that whatsoever. But when it comes to certain jobs you will find that you are going to need to use pins whether you like it or not. 📍👍 By the way, thank you for making this video. I do agree with you. There ARE indeed many ways to sew. I learned that while working at Barbara Matera Ltd and watching professional seamstresses from all over the world show me different and cool ways of getting the job done. I loved learning many of the secrets of the trade. 🧵🪡✂️👍
Thank you. I don't sew very well, but from my experience with knitting / crocheting I view patterns as suggestions only. Suggestions from a person for whom this worked and who wants to give me helpful hints on how to achive a similar result.
Re: changing needles, at 19:26, I think home seamstresses are not aware that this is from factory practices were workers spend 8 hours or more a day sewing constantly, a high volume of clothing on very powerful, high-speed machines. Someone who sews once a week probably does not need to change a needle as often. However, people acquire bad habits or just never learn better habits. Like the reader who wrote the submission you posted, my aunt has been sewing regularly for 50 years. Not only does she not change her needle EVER, but she wasn't really aware of the different size needles adapted to different fabrics or projects. Please, don't be like my aunt, dear reader! You can't sew silk and denim with the same size needle. Fur and neoprene require different needles. Satin sewn with a topstitching needle and thread will look awful. Needle, thread and fabric have to work together to get the best possible results. There are combinations that work best. Yes, if you've just sewn a prom dress, or 6 pyjama pants, you probably need to change the needle.
I was almost tearing my hair out in frustration because my machine wouldn't stop skipping stitches... Magically solved after I changed the needle. I started sewing a year ago and I thought "changing needles can't be that serious, they're probably just trying to get me to spend more money" and it went fine, until it didn't. Oopsie.
Tried the purple thing and broke it pretty quick. Probably my fault. Now I use an old nut picker - sturdy metal, pointy tip, strong & was sitting unused in the kitchen drawer.
This made me chuckle a little because I'm guessing that most people don't have a nut picker or even know what that is. And because I use a tool for frilling the edge of sugar flowers for the same purpose, and I doubt most people have that or even know what it is either. I just used what was handy lol.
I like the way you think, glad I found this today. I tend to think and sew the way you do 😊. The 3 foot rule is great…and no one should be closer than that anyway.
I have been living under a rock!! When did stiching a hem from the top become "The Way" to create a hem. Sixty years ago when I learned to sew from my Mom, hem stiching like underware was something you don't want to see!! ;-D Type of garmet can make a difference in choice of hem to my recollection. Ultimately, I see Sewing as an art. There are all kinds of tools and mediums to work with. People often feel safer with rules to guide them, freedom is scary, too many options. In the past things were made to last, if broken could be repaired. Hence "Couture" seams, they were ment to last. Today if it comes undone "Toss It"! Our feture, we don't have to worry about "Globel Warming". We will be so well insuliated by our mountains of trash it won't be a problem. Unless you have asked for, or offered your garment up for critique, other people's opinions mean nothing. Thank you for letting individuals know they are Free to try it a different way. Mamaw's Opinion "Sewists On"!!💖
I totally agree that stitching on the wrong side of the hem is totally fine, the reason that people tell you to always stitch with the right side visible is so you can catch any thread issues as they are happening. Sometimes the bobbin thread will get pulled and looped but the right side will look fine so it is fine to just leave it, but if the bobbin side is on the right side and there are some issues you will have to redo it, but you won't see this until after you finished sewing the whole hem and there may be a large chunk that you will have to redo.
I love Rachel Maksy's channel because of number 9. She shows her process and mistakes, and she doesn't get it perfect every time. Sometimes their clothes come out better than others, but she's constantly learning and showing things she could have done better.
I am an avid pinner. It must take a lot of experience to manage the shifting of the fabric at the sewing machine. I am currently working on a chiffon dress and I read that chiffon was too delicate to pin, while being slippery. Luckily, I also read that there were pins made specficaly for delicate fabrics. They are thin and sharp. So I got a box of those and I have been happily pinning away. Toilet paper between the layers of fabric also help with the shifting. I also changed the needle on my sewing machine.
Many tips, such as not using pins to sew a seam came from industrial dewing, as a way to speed up construction. I have too many curves on my body not to pin my seams and sewing is a stress relief for me so I'm not in a rush to get done. One place I have removed pins from is the pattern and fabric. I use weights and a rotary cutter and scissors for sharp curves/angles.
Both of my grandmothers were seamstresses so I didn’t stand a chance, lol. I’ve been sewing for 40 years now, the first garment I made was a canary yellow jersey playsuit which is hilarious because I really don’t like yellow and jersey? I wish it was still around so I could see how bad it probably was on the inside 😂 I sewed all the time and made clothes for my kids but stopped for anything other than fixing hems, replacing buttons and making curtains when I moved house and didn’t have room for my industrial machine but I could pretty much sew blindfold up until then and barely used pins at all. I picked it up again when the call went out to make scrubs for our NHS during the pandoodah and found that I’ve had to relearn so much and even though it’s been three years now I’m still struggling to even sew straight and I’m using TONS of pins, I’m also needing to unpick way too much which is so frustrating and I’m kind of grieving for the loss of knowledge and the tips and tricks and techniques I once knew. I’ve always sewn hems on the wrong side so I can be sure I catch the edge otherwise I’d either miss completely or it’d look crap because I’d got a flappy bit and the fabric pulls out with wear and tear.
Oh my gosh! I soooo relate to this. I have three daughters that I used to sew for all the time, plus for myself. I also used to sew professionally for a children’s line. I fell away from sewing for 20ish years. I retired from a full time job 6 years ago and started sewing. I basically had to start from scratch, fitting has been a nightmare, but it’s still a fun hobby for me now.
I’m 73 and like you I learned to sew many years ago and made all my kids things. I stopped, like you and started again at about the same time as you and also mourn the loss of all I once knew and cannot remember. I have to be easy on myself. I take much longer now, I have to pin a ton, and I have a hard time getting started because I’m a closet perfectionist, for myself only. In other words, it’s easier for me to not try than to chance failing. My first 4 tries after I began sewing agin were total, terrible fails. I wanted to give up.
I’ve been sewing for over 50 years and have made many pants, and I have to say that TDCO pant fitting is the best and easiest method I have ever tried. BUT, if you have a method that you like and that works well for you, then you should definitely stick with that! It’s that saying, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” There are lots of fitting methods, and everyone should feel free to find the one that works best for them. ❤️
absolutely! it seems as though TDCO has helped a lot of people and I think that is fantastic. it's only the mentality of "this is THE way" that starts to be unhelpful imo.
I love this and I hope that anyone new to sewing watches this and gives them the confidence to sew more. Some of the lies (or untold points) I think should be mentioned are: Never sewing over pins, I was taught TO sew over them they have to be at a right angle to the foot, pin head facing outwards. Occasionally you will break a needle - but that happens anyway. If you don't feel conformable doing that don't do it but you can sew over them. Calico is the only fabric to use for mock ups, this isn’t true and can in fact ruin your final garment. Instead choose a cheaper fabric with similar qualities to your final fabric to make your mock up with. This will give you the chance to see how it hangs and sits on your body. I defiantly agree on reading instructions, as my other half loves to say "instructions are just someone else's opinions" ;)
I taught to sew over pins as well. This freaked out a friend of mine when we were having a sewing weekend. I was taught that in high school by the home ec teacher and by my sisters who sewed. I still do it today, especially if I have weird corner to stitch. I need those pins to stay in to keep all the weirdness in place. Oh yeah, I'm not supposed to use pins... well darn! 😅
@@gusmonster59 glad I wasn't the only one! I will say there is nothing worse than the sound of hitting a pin or breaking a needle. But that happens so rarely it's easier to see over them and take them out afterwards. I tried taking out before sewing but that really slows me down.
I'm grateful for all sewists who post videos on RUclips. All the videos are not necessarily useful to me, but I appreciate your sharing your views and how-tos with me. Thank you.
Omg #6! So pattern instructions are so often rediculous. I've been sewing for over 50 years so I know how to do most any thing. I only occasionally follow the printed instructions.
I used to just run fray check along my seams. I still do that when I am doing small repairs. Pins - you can't make certain things without using pins. I think the 'no pins' things is fairly new. I use pins to hold things in place, to mark start/stops, etc.. I'm sitting at home sewing, no one knows if I am using pins, some fancy tool, cussing out that pleat, whatever. As for 'rehoming' (really? REHOME clothing?) - none of anyone's business. I give the things I no longer wear to the local women's shelter. I may no longer like/wear it, but some woman who has lost her entire world will be thrilled to have it. I used to follow an historic seamstress. She would often show her mistakes, like the time she sewed the skirt panels together wrong, to show everyone she wasn't perfect and made mistakes even with decades of sewing under her belt. Another lie - You have to have some fancy arse computerized machine to be an accomplished sewer. I actually had a fancy arse machine and got rid of it because it was so persnickety. I traded it in for an older, mechanical Necchi. She'll stitch anything I throw at her without pitching a fit, locking up or freaking out. She is also far easier to care for since the heat or cold doesn't bother her non-existent computer parts. I'll never, ever go back to a computerized machine.
Hi Sara! This was a great video! Let me recap on some things.. I definitely use a lot of pins, and I just made a skirt that had the many channel situation that you were referring too and I did not do that either. I used on big wide piece and that was it! I was going to topstitch to keep the look but I decided not to. I think it's helpful to share the imperfect makes online because of the possibility of helping someone else. Very fun video! Thanks for sharing!
Yes, great video and myth-busting. I understand beginning desists who take or in my case took classes waaaaay back when, you are taught certain ways based on the teacher(s)you had. I’m still learning and love it! With experience you can make informed decisions to “break” the rules. Shows & classes are usually set up to sell the consumer something…. Easy to get caught up in the hype and want to buy all new toys. Again, experience and perhaps budget can curb the buying frenzy. I’m glad there is more info available online for folks to learn from but you have to be wary of the ones who say it’s the ONLY way to do something. I haven’t used a cutting layout for a pattern in decades…. I may reference them to get an idea but usually don’t follow the instructions. As for the stretch Stich, or lightning stitch, it’s a fixed length on my machines and waaaay to short for my liking. What a pain if you have to rip it out. Nancy Zieman used a 0.5mm zigzag- you pick the length for a stretch Stich and I find that works great (when not using my serger). Thank you for sharing this information and I hope it helps everyone!
Don't want to sew through your finger! :D I've done that--I thought it was kind of an initiation... Lovely video. I've been sewing for 50 years and this is great!
I totally agree with everything but stay stitching is something I think needs to be done or using stay tape. I have forgotten and been sorry 😢. Great topic!
People can pry quilting cottons from my cold dead hands. They make great double and triple full circle skirts. Apparel fabric just doesn't come in enough fun or lively prints. Though i have been heavily favoring batiks more and more this past summer when making my skirts for me and my neice. I do change my needle frequently when I need to use a a 100, 110 or 120 just because it going thru so much thick fabric but my 70's and 80's uhh i forgot the last time i changed it before my current heavy duty project
I just came across this video and your channel! New subbie here! Loved this video!! I've only been sewing garments for the past couple years and I have to say that this video really hit home for me. I really just do what works for me. I don't think that there should be rules or only one way to do something. Why put oneself in a box and just become frustrated and possibly even quit sewing altogether? I don't have a "purple thing" but I do have an inexpensive sewing awl that is always at hand. Thanks so much for this uplifting video!
Something to consider when following pattern instructions is the age of the pattern. Many "new" fabrics and notions came out with the plastics industry and the rise of the baby boomer sewing age group. New elastics, fabrics, etc were produced, especially from the 80s to the 2000s. Wide athletic elastics replaced dainty lingerie elastics. New fabrics didn't ravel when cut, etc. So if you are looking at a vintage pattern take a moment to think about the fabrics, notions and techniques you have available to you that weren't available when the pattern was written and make your own decisions on what to follow and what not to.
I taught myself how to sew my own clothes starting at 12 back in the sixties. Had no living grandparents, and no relatives lived in our state. My mom didn't see, nor was she domestic in any way (she actually looked down on me and my wanting to cook, bake and sew. So I have few skills, but lots of determination. I did figure out after several years to find some way to finish my seams. My favorite is the French seam, but it is not always practical on different garments. My first try was using pinking shears. I have also done some creative sewing putting in a small thin strip of fabric to cover an entire seam that is finished completely with no threads showing anywhere. I recently bought a high end garment at a thrift store that I found had the same type of finished seams. Boy did that make me happy. I had been told decades ago that I was wasting my time and effort that made no sense! Thankfully I stopped listening to other people when I saw they did not sew clothes, just curtains and easy projects like pillow cases. But am thoroughly enjoying your video!❤️ I am surrounded with no family members who sew or even friends and neighbors that sew. Your channel is such a joy to me❤
Another statement I find confusing for beginners, is referring to stretch fabrics as 2 or 4 way stretch. You cannot stretch to the right but not to the left or only upwards but not downwards! Saying 2 way stretch is not enough, you always need to specify, mostly "around your body". It is more useful to indicate whether the garment needs fabric with little or more stretch and it's directionality. I totally agree that there are many ways to achieve the same result and experience will tell which one is best for a person. Nowadays there are lots of tools and books and you may end up with a lot while using very little. I learned sewing on a mechanical sewing machine with straight stitch only and clothes looked good, while taking more time to make because of the amount of additional hand sewing required. I like to watch on RUclips people explaining techniques and I choose the ones that I can understand and apply. I need to understand the logic of doing. I first test then I use in a real garment. Measure yourself, measure something similar you like to wear and measure the pattern! Don't rely on your "size". Each brand has its own size system and more often than not, the key elements: bust point, hip, shoulder slope, are in different places than in the pattern. You will have to make minor adjustments. Then cut as appropriate, if possible for the first time in a muslin (inexpensive same type of fabric). Often you are not happy with the result because of poor fit, not because of poor sewing, most of the time you are the only one to notice the accuracy of the sewing. I don't use stretch/zigzag stitches, I never liked them. I use stretch thread instead. Both Guttermann and Amman brands have them in many colours (the name ends in flex: Seraflex...). No popped stitches anymore. Stretch fabrics , especially knits are easy to work with, and they don't fray, no need to clean the seams. Moreover, raw seams on the outside of the garment are often fashionable! For heavy or slippery fabrics clips are better than pins. Pins may leave unwanted holes.Hems can be glued with two-sided special tape. Test before using. Handy with knits. Grain matters for the hang of clothes e.g. out of grain often causes twisting of the pant leg or of the skirt.
First video of yours I've seen, and love this! I've been sewing on & off for >40 years, mostly self taught via PBS shows & patterns. Amazing now with so many indie patterns & yT get to see ideas from around the world, and my favorite is an atelier in Japan. Such precision, wow.. I've always approached sewing as "problem solving" & rarely does anyone else know what the pattern drawing shows! Though I wish I knew more about FBA and altering patterns decades ago.... Different materials take different approaches, too. What you do for a tweed wool is not the same as silk Charmeuse. I love sewing because I love great fabric, though I collect fabric faster than I sew! And only a few months ago tried using a serger a neighbor gave me & love it, but still prefer other finishes if they may be seen.... Stay stitching a myth? Like all, it depends--you can ruin a neck line if you stay stitch the wrong direction (done that) or skip it (done that), but some fabrics tolerate anything (or recover/hide mistakes--one reason I love wool & good pressing!). But I wish I didn't skip understitching as much as I had!
Love this video, so spot on and interesting. I have to say I am in the habit of stay stitching a garment because it's always the first instruction in the pattern instructions.😊
With appropriate stay stitching you can make a full circle skirt that hangs level so you can hem it with a shirt tail hem and not not be trying to get a level hem line with marking and trimming.
Agree with almost every word, argh, that pins one is infuriating! And then they start "but factory workers don't use pins!". Yeah, factory workers also sew the left sleeve in for months, even I would get better (not necessarily good) with that much practice. And only people with good motor skills stay at factories and are able to meet the requirements for speed and amount sewn, so it's basically very ableist comment. We are somehow expected to meet the skill of people who are both able, and practice for long hours every day, and then sewing the seams is a very small part of the skills a home sewist has to have, because we are the whole factory staff, stuffed into one person.
I appreciate all of your comments. I read them all but I'm sorry that I am unable to respond to each one. I'm rather overwhelmed by the response to this video. thank you 🙏
ETA: I take it back--I appreciate *most* of your comments. You may not like the term "sewist" but is has been around for many years. No one is forcing you to use it. Also use of the word "lie" was meant as hyperbole. I will no longer respond to comments about these things.
I like the term sewist much more than sewer….which I always think of sewage system…lol.
@@jdxx59 i've always thought that too.
I was a sewing teacher for many years and would like to share with you the history of a couple of these "lies".
In the 1970s people who sewed outside of factories suddenly had access to a wide variety of knit fabrics that had not been available to them before. There were even fabric stores that sprang up to focus on selling knit fabrics. (Remember Stretch and Sew Stores anyone?) Many people who knew how to sew woven fabrics took classes at these stores to learn how to sew knits. The yarns in knit fabrics are not as tightly spun as the ones used in woven fabrics, so they required a new type of sewing machine needle that would not cut the yarns of knit fabrics and cause laddering/runs and ruin the integrity of the fabric. So ballpoint needles were invented to be used in the apparel industry and later made available to people sewing outside of factories/ at home. Students had to be encouraged to remember to change their sewing machine needle with each project so that the needle type was appropriate to the type of fabric it was sewing. With time, the advice evolved from "Change your needle to suit the fabric of each new project" to "Change your needle with each new project" and some vital information that accompanied the advice was lost.
Some people found this advice to be so onerous ( and didn't follow it, so had problems with skipped stitches and cutting yarns/creating holes in their knit fabrics) that the companies that made needles for the home sewing market invented the "universal " sewing machine needle. A universal needle is designed to have a narrower point than a ballpoint needle, so it can sew woven fabrics without skipped stitches, and it also has a rounded tip, so it will not cut the yarns of knit fabrics.
So, should you put in a new needle for each new project? I think the answer is that it depends on what results you are getting from the needle you are currently using. I used to start every new sewing class by telling my students that about 95% of all their stitich quality problems could be solved by just re-threading their machines and another 4% would probably be solved by changing their needle. (I was taught this by the women of my family who all sew: When you have a stitch quality issue, re-thread the machine and if that doesn't solve the problem, change your needle. It is probably the best advice I have ever received about stitch quality and it has served me and my students well.)
Another gem of sewing wisdom I learned early on was learning to re-thread my machine very quickly. I worked in a Jantzen factory one year and the first thing they insisted we learn was how to re-thread our machines in less than ten seconds, basically without having to think about it. This training made me realize how much time I wasted sewing at home every time my stitch quality was off and I futtzed around trying to avoid re-threading my machine. So this was a skill I insisted all my students learn because most home sewers avoid re-threading their sewing machines as though it is an onerous chore. In my classes we do drills to learn how to re-thread our machines until everyone can do it in less than 10 seconds. (It usually takes less than thirty minutes for everyone in the room to learn this skill.) I consistently got feedback that this was one of the most useful basic things my students learned that improved their sewing.
that is very interesting! thanks for sharing.
Let’s make a new rule: not shaming anyone but rather be encouraging. Life is hard enough without the negativity.
❤
I totally agree
They’re lying…liars… and more are over the internet. Enough already. I don’t need bad guys in my sewing space. Toxic and so unnecessary.
Amen….🧵🪡
But same time telling truth is very important. You just can't say that something looks goid if it doesn't. That's a lie and its irrelevan.
Coming out of the depression era my grandmothers de-constructed everything. Buttons, zippers and other notions were reused. Undamaged fabric was remade into kids play clothes. Scraps into quilts anything left over went into pillows. I have even seen my maternal grandmother un weave a long strip, pull out several long threads reply two or three together then use a steel hook to crochet a dress belt loop or button loop. She worked in a tailors shop and often has to use what she was given to work with.
Wonderful video Sara. It always amazes me what shoddy quality I tolerate in ready to wear garments when I’m so darn picky about what I make. I should be kinder to my sewing self!💕🇨🇦
You are so right! I'll have to be kinder to myself too
Yes, tolerating shoddy quality and poor fitting.
It occurred to me to compare my sewn items to ready to wear in my closet. I was shocked at the workmanship in some of my favorite items that I’ve been buying once it really looked at them. It has helped me be more realistic about my sewing expectations.
A remarkable statement! Now I get it!
I've sewn for over 40 years. I use more pins now than I ever did when I was a new sewist.😊 Well actually I've learned to live clips lol. I will say the one must is pressing. I have learned not to skip that step.
You are so right about pressing (not ironing)!
I hate ironing so I’ve gotten a little iron just for the hobby side of needing one. I’ve tried to let this step not be a must but have learned that it is not a rewarding endeavor. Just bought myself an ironing blanket as well. That little iron is such a great tool that I’d like to iron bigger things with it as well so I needed something bigger than a pillow to iron on. I used to use a folded sheet but that’s not always handy so I caved and got myself an ironing blanket. Pressing really is a good option to not skip lol
@@nommhwhoops, I use both terms for the same thing (although it is indeed a bit different). Might be worthwhile to use them accordingly 😅
Your "re-homing" I consider as continuing the tradition of my mother, grandmother and great-grandmother (the last two lived the great depression as daughter and mother) in what I've heard called today "Reduce, Reuse, Recycle" slogan.
Stay stitching on necklines - per my home economics teacher back in the 70s (who learned it herself in the 40s) - is to prevent the fabric from tearing beyond the seamline location when you clip the curved neckline of the garment in order to attach the often straight edged collar. As for seam finishes, pinking shears are my friend. I use them on nearly every thing that I don't french seam as I just can't afford nor have space for a serger.
And it helps avoid stretching out of shape when attaching facings etc.
I used to sew square dance outfits and used tons of pins. When gathering, I pinned the center of the fabric, then the next half, then the next down to the half inch. This made my gathers perfectly spaced all around the skirt on all the tiers. Using lots of pins makes you more in control.
i do that too
I agree. I use a good amount of pins.
It doesn’t cost any more to use lots of pins rather than only one or two. They all recycle.
That’s my technique too. It’s logical for even spread of gathering. I have a Vogue Belleville Sassoon ball gown I made for my sister in the 80’s to thank for that. Even the Parisian couture atelier ladies would have baulked at it. Immense metres of gathering.
The use of a lot of pins is time consuming. So in industry, it is discouraged. The sewists are doing the same garment over and over so they would get good at putting things together without lots of pins.
I'm so glad that I never heard that rule about always sewing a hem on the outside! I've sewn fron the inside of garments almost exclusively for decades. This makes me confident that I am actually catching the edge of the hem.
Thank you for every one of these rebuttals! I learned to sew from my mother, who sewed for a living off and on throughout her life. I'm now 78 myself and I see so many new tools out there and how-to's, but I still use an ancient wooden knitting needle to turn narrow things inside out, my mother's best scissors that are a funny colour but work better than any of the expensive new ones I've bought, and, probably the funniest thing is that I have never had a serger. I double stitch or make French seams. My sewing machine is a Sears electric from about 1969 and was the last all metal model built I understand, and it's never been professionally serviced either. Still does what I need it to do and it has made clothes, soft furnishings, drapes, pillow cases, cushion covers, stuffed animals, Barbie wardrobes, other doll clothes and actual soft dolls, repaired innumerable garments, and saved us a LOT of money. The only "new" tool I've found worth the bother since I first used a treadle Singer about 70 years ago is the seam ripper. 😂 Just do what works for you is the best advice, especially since the advent of the internet where there are a zillion people teaching so-called best practices, available to everyone with a computer. This video is one of the good ones!😊👍💖
thank you
You can also use the eraser end of a pencil to guide silk instead of a seam ripper. It grips!
interesting! i'll have to try that.
Oh thank you I will keep this in mind if I do sew silk again. Brilliant!
Thanks for that tip, I'll try it too 😀 I recently updated my computer software and now have Publisher, my intention is to create a booklet with all these tips in so that I can find them easily - if I go online I get distracted by fabric stores 😂
This was great! I’ve only been sewing for myself for 1 year, self taught using RUclips. I always sew my hem on the wrong side, but have felt guilty about it. After watching this, I will no longer feel guilty.
glad i could help!
I have been a home sewer for 57 years. When I started, my only source of information was the pattern instructions. It would have been wonderful to have had access to all the videos on RUclips that new sewists now have. Trial and error really isn't an efficient method of learning anything.
I do feel really grateful to RUclips and all the tutorials I have access to. I’m a very late starter……I’m 67 years old.
You are a fresh attitude. I’m an old sewist who learned from grandmother. She’d be very proud of you.😊
I think a lot of these rules are so that you can get the best outcome as a beginner, but that as you gain more experience you learn what rules you can bend or break to suit your own sewing practice. Or knitting practice.
I agree. Been sewing all my life. Just took a beginner quilting class with other seniors. The teacher gave rules that I thought were too strict ( I didn’t say anything, please respect the teacher). After a few classes I realized these beginner sewers need a simple forward instruction to learn to sew (too many choices confused them). The later classes everyone was gaining confidence and we started trying different things. Wonderful class at so many different levels of knowledge. 😊
I think that is the intention, but we should also be cautious not to overwhelm a beginner or expect perfection from the outset ❤
Over the years I have practiced many couture techniques and different short cuts as well. I use pins, machine and hand basting as well as temporary glue as necessary. I firmly believe that we should have a more positive attitude towards our craft. We do not have failures, we make prototypes. You can learn a lot from a garment that you do not want to wear, it may be the colour, fabric drape, style or sewing technique. Identify the issues and you can do better next time. We never see the design stages for garments we buy in the shops, many of which will have gone through multiple test versions before they are offered for sale.
As to the rest of your points I find stay stitching useful if tacking a garment together to test the fit.
Cutting on the cross grain depends on the fabric, for tightly woven fabric it does not make much of a difference. Loosely woven fabric may have a much stronger warp that may affect the fabric drape.
As to cost yes it can be expensive, but so are lots of other hobbies, at least I am making something I can keep or give as a gift.
I completely agree that sewing with knits can be great for beginners, it helps you avoid some fitting issues and feel successful
I loved this, Sara! I hope all new sewists will watch and take these to heart! They will have a much more enjoyable experience learning to sew, and it will definitely take the “pressure” off! I especially love Number Three! That has always been a huge pet peeve of mine - “this is the ONLY way to do this technique”. There are multiple ways to perform a technique, and, everyone needs to find what works for them! And, I also love the “perfectionist” one! If everything I made had to be perfect, I would never complete anything! 😂Besides, I love seeing the “hand” in “handmade”! Also, thank you for the shout-out! 💗
thanks, for sharing your opinions! i appreciate it.
I work at a fabric store and love learning from EVERYONE however there were a lot of staff and customers that were sewing snobs (LOL) I see them as closed minded and miss the adventure of our hobby. Rules Rules Rules -- you learn them so you can break them.. take care
In the past I’ve asked for help a few times at the local Joann Fabrics store, and each time I was met with ridicule and judgmental criticism. I don’t ask for help anymore and really only shop there if I need something quickly. The few online shops I frequent have been more courteous and helpful via email and phone call than any in-person encounter I’ve experienced at Joann’s or elsewhere.
The people who work at my Joanne’s don’t know. I have had excellent interactions with online shops
The worst snobs are found in sewing machine shops - you're not allowed to touch their "precious" machines and they insist on doing demos instead of letting you try the machines yourself. I'm walking out next time I experience this as I'm not prepared to take home a machine I find I can't tolerate in practice myself.
@@kat_thefruitbat I love it when people ask me questions at joanns. I don't work there but I'll occasionally have someone asked me is so many question and I'm happy to answer them.
@@sarag1158 that’s really nice of you! 😊
Fun video. I’m quite a bit older than you and as a child my grandmother and mother sewed a lot of our clothes; the seams were never finished. Even when I took sewing in junior high (early ‘70s) I do not remember any teaching on finishing seams. I just recently have gotten a serger but have been finishing seams in other ways for many years.
My mom finished the seams of my clothes with pinking shears.
I agree. I learned about pinking shears in the 70’s and I never heard of a serger until a couple of years ago.
Yup, pinking sheers work very well on seams to prevent raveling. Also, you don’t have the additional bulk of thread on your seams, which makes a difference when sewing sheer fabrics 😊
Gosh! Thank goodness I never knew about some of these rules. I agree with your opinions. My Mom taught me how to sew 60 years ago and I still hear her advice in my head as I sew. However, a lot has changed since the 60s. I started sewing again after I retired. I've had a lot of fun learning new techniques and how to work with different fabrics. I know the basics, but I can do something different if it works for me. 🙂
I absolutely try to remember to staystitch. I learned to sew in school, in the 60's and it's so worth it to me!
If I make a minor mistake in my sewing, eg a bit of caught up seam in my lining, I consider how much time it would take to fix versus how much it would annoy me if I didnt fix it . Lucky for me I'm not a perfectionist 😃. Thanks for your content, I really enjoy your videos
for sure! i'm basically the same these days.
A sewing friend of my perfectionist mother said if I just keep moving Noone can see if my hem is straight. I loved that.
Such an interesting and fun video! I agree that most of these are lies. I do finish my seams because when I first started sewing and didn’t have a serger, I tried to zig zag the seams in a tank top made out of a viscose and my beautiful, beautiful top didn’t survive many washes. As far as I’m concerned, there are no hard rules when it comes to sewing - you just have to do what works for you and I get really annoyed when people say your MUST do something a certain way or else your sewing isn’t up to par or something. I’m also with you about photographs and sharing on social media. I tend to follow people who share their makes worn on their body and without too much “editing” and posing. And that is how I post my pictures. How am I supposed to see how the pockets lie on a pair of pants if all your photos have your hands in them? I totally get how some people aren’t comfortable modelling or sharing an “imperfect” garment, but I don’t usually follow those accounts. 💞
oh i totally agree that not finishing seams on rayon is dicey. i think my mom mostly sewed with cotton back in the day.
I teach music. Most of my students are adult beginners. I tell them that they are doing something instead of consuming things…and helping their brains work. This is why I have a huge studio with happy students
I buy the majority of my fabric and sewing notions from thrift shops and I use a lot of free patterns. I try to keep costs down as much as possible.
Great video Sara, love your attitude . Sewing should be fun and not restricted by unnecessary rules, I do stay stitch necklines when I'm using
viscose and I actually enjoy doing french seams, as for hemming garments on the right side in my mind that is crazy !!!
yeah, the idea that people look down on others for stitching their seams on the wrong side is so bizarre to me.
Some very good sensible points. Thank you. I always use loads of pins - better to pin something and avoid it shifting than sewing it wrong and having to unpick it, but that’s just my view. The elastic advice is a really good one. I always sew my hems on the wrong side - I do a much neater job that way. And as for pattern instructions, I am currently sewing a pattern where the instructions for the pockets JUST DON’T WORK! After 4 attempts I just put the pockets in in a different way and they worked. There really is no one way to do things.
If your stitches are messed up, you can't keep a strait line, or your thread is breaking - a dull needle may be the culprit. Try changing it.
If switching needle types, the needle you're taking out can be put back in the appropriate case, backwards, to show yourself it has been used.
I store "dull" needles on a magnet for re-use when sewing velcro or through paper.
"Dead" needles go in a pill bottle for eventual disposal.
Why did I never think to put it back upside down???🤔🙄
@@marieg2815 Upside down would leads to holes in fingers - for me. That's why I switched to "backwards" or the flat size forward. Let visibly obvious, but if your needles have a coloured stripe, it means the stripe won't be visible on any used ones.
Thank you for this…I still consider myself a beginner, maybe a fresh intermediate…but I sometimes feel some of the sewists on youtube seem to forget the struggles they endured at the beginning…they put too high a bar on perfection which can cause beginners to just give up. I simply try to do better on each garment I sew. Your comments and videos are very much appreciated! Thank you.
absolutely! it's a journey not something you master overnight.
Sara, what a FANTASTIC video!! So funny. I had to laugh about following the pattern instructions to the T. I RARELY do that and I almost never follow the fabric layouts. I am always trying to conserve fabric. I loved this video! Thanks for sharing.👍
Note: I filmed this before all of the TCDO plagiarism drama. Just wanted to make it clear that I'm not referring to any of that in this video as it happened after I created my video.
Man, I ran into that drama on accident looking for information on how to adjust pants patterns. I'm re-entering into sewing after a long break and the top down method was down right confusingto me. The drama associated with it was a little comical, after all, we are all creating. It's sad.
I'm 66yo, started on a Singer treadle sewing machine as a kid. I've learned a couple new tricks from your videos. Just bought my first serger. Thanks for your tutorials and I enjoy watching them. I use lots of pins and clips.
glad it was helpful!
BRAV-O, Sara!!!!! When I was learning to quilt several years ago, the major message I kept hearing was that intersecting seams HAD TO MATCH PERFECTLY OR THEY WOULD STAND OUT LIKE A SORE THUMB AND BE EXTREMELY NOTICEABLE. I understand the need for careful cutting and sewing techniques, the world isn't going to end if there are some slight imperfections in a quilt top. I like the Amish way of thinking: Only God is perfect! Amish women will intentionally put a slight imperfection in a quilt or garment to remember who is actually perfect - God alone. So, once I got over the lie of quilt block perfection, quilting became much less stressful and much more enjoyable. Thank you for making this video! 🥰
I agree with you. My mother was a sewing teacher who made patterns of mens suites, intricate dresses, did exhibitions, and designed and sewed trousos. Everything:- the sewing, embroidery, pyjamas, sheets towels everything. She was very good. I learned very little from her because she was into ripping what I did. Nothing was ever up to her standard, she would take over what I was doing and give me insignificant chore to do. However, I have learned to sew, embroider and many other things my pears are shocked that I can do. Unfortunately most of it after she died. Perfection is a killer of doing ones best. This video is very good, thank you.😊
“Perfect” is the enemy of “done”
Similar story here, I come from a family of professional seamstresses, my grandmother, her mother, etc....
I was taught many crafts as well as sewing, the older women thought I was stupid and lazy when I refused to learn tatting. This never stopped me I continued to sew, knit crochet, embroider. Have been sewing now for over 60 years, still learning something new from both young and old seamstresses. I basically just shrugged off their opinions and did exactly what I live doing.
Thank you! In the 60s and 70s my mom and grandma sewed all my clothes and most of my brother’s. They did not finish seams, may be zig zag on fabric that would fray a lot. The clothes never fell apart at the seams during washing, even with the ringer washing machine! I have just started sewing again after watching many RUclips sewing blogs. I have not finished the garment I started because I forgot to finish the raglan shoulder seams. I would need to rip it apart and start over. I will now skip it and continue on! Thank you for reminding me that everything does not need to be perfect or use techniques that others are using.
it's so interesting that others have the same experience with their relatives. i guess it really was common that they taught sewing in schools but not something as basic as finishing seams! i had always assumed that my mom was an outlier, once i learned to sew.
As my daughter says,"What ever floats your boat"! Which means "do what works for you"!I Enjoyed this "SEW" much Sara.
I always felt that my machine skills were very poor. That is until I watched an expert - no, not someone who sits sewing only one tiny part of a garment at very high speed. I mean things like machining the waistband onto your skirt.
This girl was chosen from all the machinists available in the factory as she produced the best results, according to the designer who showing us how to make the garment.
What I saw amased me. She stitched a little then fiddled a little, etc, to get it positioned just right AND she machined it SLOWLY. Wow just like I would do it.
Now I am much more confident about how I use my machine, and how slowly I sew.
All of the items you listed I totally agree with.
I’m in bed recovering from a minor surgical procedure and I was going to look at various sewing blogs. I saw almost every day. And I truly enjoyed your video on the nine myths very well done so I’m going to look at some of your other videos I’ve been selling since I was nine and I’m 73 and I have broken many rules. Sometimes out of ignorance. Sometimes because I thought I could do it better in many times I couldn’t other times I couldn’t. My mothers friends were terrible to me. You should’ve done this you didn’t do that 2 1/2 inch ham is required blah blah blah blah blah I was the one who got excepted into FIT not them.
As a newbie, so glad I found you. I’ve discovered I enjoy my time with my sewing machine; we are pals and I crackup every time I make a mistake! It’s soooo therapeutic.
i'm glad you are enjoying your new hobby! thanks for watching.
Haha, I finally gave in and bought the purple thing! Totally unnecessary, but I was either reaching for whatever tool was closest or having to stop the flow of my sewing to find a tool that was suitable for the task, so I went for it. The one advantage about the purple thing is, well, it's purple! I can find it right away and now I don't worry about breaking the tip of my scissors or piercing my fabric. But you can totally use whatever other pointy tool you have handy for the same purpose.
I use an awl. It's metal and I've had it for years.
Great video. You brought up a lot of important points. I taught sewing and quilting for many years and I always told my students that there are many ways to do the same thing, just pick the one that works the best for you. My mom told me "You don't sew because it saves you money, you sew because you love to."
Just a quick note about using seam rippers as your "extra finger" instead of a purple thang. The main drawback is that if you get too close and hit the needle you can break the needle. My solution is to use a bamboo skewer from the kitchen. No cost as I already have them, and a little softer. Happy sewing :-)
good point! thanks.
These are very interesting comments, and I tend to agree with them, just for the simple reason that the message is that "there is no rule that cannot be broken or written in stone". What works for the sewist is good enough, if that action allows them to achieve the same results. I do stay stich the necklines and all parts of the garment that can be stretched during manipulations. I think that stay stich is an optional and useful step to save some time at the end. But, same as above, if anyone can handle the fabric(s) or bias cuts without it, it is wonderful and does not contradict anything you so wisely have shared in this video. Thanks for sharing!
glad you enjoyed it!
1) Agree! Inside finishing is not directly proportional to the durability of the garment. 2) I find that I use fewer pins as I become more experienced, mostly to save time when sewing. 3) Absolutely 💯! There are lots of ways to do almost anything, especially fitting. 4) True! Some of the tools I’ve bought have been very helpful others, not so much. 5) Agree, Some items definitely just need to be discarded/recycled/gifted. 6) I’ve come across some bad instructions. Sometimes you just know a better ways! 7) Ha! My closet if full of wearable garments WITH mistakes, and I never point them out when I wear them. 8) I only hem on the top side when using a twin needle! 9) I have no perfect makes, so I would never share if I waited for a perfect make. Great video!!
I’m glad to know I’m not alone. I learned sewing in home Econ first then just went from there - you can’t be afraid to think your way through a project or plan and execute based on what you already know, practice makes permanent.
I love that you did this! The highest hurdle any fabric artist needs to clear is the Perfection bar! My grandmother made me pick out zippers repeatedly until everything was perfectly straight. I can still remember one dress I had to pick out so many times that I ruined the fabric and threw away the entire project.
Now, I own and operate an old-school costume shop. I make all the costumes we rent to the public and amateur theatrical groups. Perfection had to go the way of the dodo to complete a dozen copies of any garment in a reasonable amount of time. If it looks decent and functions, it's good to go. In 33 years, no customer has ever complained about a wobbly top stitch. Most are amazed at the quality of my work!
thanks for sharing!
I’ve made mistakes in sewing and it is what it is and I still love the garments I made and wear them. I also like to dupe high end designs I love. The cost of the dupes is a fraction of the designer one with the added bonus of picking fabrics in colors I would wear as opposed to what choice the designer has. I saw an Alice and Olivia embroidered cotton shirt I died over. I thrifted one similar to it and embroidered it myself. I am always open to new ways of doing things and learning techniques. For me the devil is in the details.
I did that same thing! I set in a sleeve inside-out, THREE TIMES. Knowing that my patient, good-humored nature might see me through any number of repeats, I stopped for the night, and made up 2 new sewing rules for myself.
1). If I make the same mistake three times, I stop sewing for the evening.
2). If a garment isn't finished by Wednesday, midnight, it's not going to the ball that weekend.
These rules enriched my life.
good one!
I use a seam gauge as a guiding tool, especially when sewing gathers. It has a wider base, keeps things flat and smooth. I try to avoid buying gadgets that will just end up being clutter. When I learned to sew, in school, we didn't have sergers either and finishing seams was either zig zag or nothing.
I do the same thing.
great tip, thanks!
Great video. I have one rule re sewing - do what works for me.
I am not great at taking pictures. I usually forget about it - I do take mainly on hanger with occasional follow-up on me. I usually show them on me in my videos, though.
My dad was a math major, and I can tell you for a fact: there are multiple ways to find a solution to a problem. To say there's only ONE WAY to perform a skill is not open minded and can actually hinder people from learning new crafts. Allowing people to come to different paths to get to the same outcome allows for new ideas and even better processes in the long run.
My friend just uses her zigzag sewing scissors for finishing just about all of her seams on her garments. At first I kind off quietly thought to myself she will regret it. But her garments last as long as mine. So, it does work.
I call them pinking shears :)
Thank you for sharing. I stopped doing sewing projects for a while because I thought they had to be perfect according to the pattern, which made me lose interest. However, I now view mistakes as learning opportunities, not just in sewing but in other forms of art as well. This change in mindset has been helpful.
In 2020 I started learning how to sew and so far I have absorbed so much knowledge. Recently I learned that polyester fabric AKA platstic is very toxic to humans so now I only sew with natural fabrics. Linen and silk is not cheap so I stay stitch and overlock every pattern piece because I do not want to risk ruining my expensive fabric.
I just finished my first ever dress pattern and I love the way it turned out and I actually wore it to work. The dress pattern required a lining so I made the decision to stay stitch and overlock all of the edges of the pattern pieces. People go back and forth about finishing or not finishing seams inside the lining but I figured that the seams will be rubbing together when the garment is washed and that will destroy the seams. Better Safe than Sorry!
Hi Sparkle-Butterfly, have you found Denver Fabrics? They have great prices on silk, linen, wool. I have been happy with the fabric and serve from them. I order online, and the colors and patterns are very true.
@@barbbrooker9440 Hi and Thanks for letting me know about Denver Fabrics. I have not heard of them before but I will definitely be checking them out.
Finishing seams is more to hold up in the washing machine, in historical garments lots of seams were left raw even up through the 1950s. Thrifting makes it easy to get fabric cheap. It can, but you have to work at it and be willing to make things out of fabrics that have stains, or that are the wrong weights or don't have enough of the right grain line. If your plus size getting enough material on grain that isn't stained to make full garments might be a challenge.
Instead of the 'purple thingy', I use an old Tupperware Citrus peeler &/or the green one for pushing small air bubbles out when canning. Works great & I already own them.
Love your content. Thank You !!!
First, I love the 3-foot rule. Makes sense to me.
I recently made my own pattern for a pullover top with scalloped neck edge. I didn't have enough fabric to lay out the pattern on the lengthwise grain so using the crosswise grain worked perfectly. It is a little summer top, rayon fabric that washes like a breeze and the grainline does not interfere with the garment at all. Comfy and casual.
Thanks for the tips.. 💐
Sounds great! i'm glad it worked out for you.
Here’s one: understitching stops a facing from flipping out. In my experience, nothing stops a facing from flipping out!
I have always stay stitched when told, but now I’m thinking I won’t bother, so thanks to the person who said that. Also I’ve made lots of garments in quilting cotton. I work in a fabric store and can’t resist some of the beautiful patterns and colours.
Stitching in the ditch at the shoulder seams may help to keep unruly facings inside…
that's a good one! facings can be such a pain.
An all in one facing might be an option. It faces neck and arm holes on one.
I noticed years ago that my facings would always flip up at the back of the neck. Now I always extended the facing edge down about 4 or 5 inches to make it look like ready made and the extra length and weight stopped that from happening. I leave the edge of the shoulder seam the same then at center back I extend the outer line of the facing about 5 inches then use a small kitchen plate for the curve to make it look nice.
Sorry, but I've always found that understitching makes a much nicer edge for a facing, and they don't roll out for me. It takes such a little bit of time to do it, and it's worth it. I've seen so many garments that looked homemade because of omitting the understitching.
This is absolutely great! Everyone needs to hear this! I love this video! So good! Thank you!😊
Experienced sewers do not use a lot of pins? Seriously? LOL! I have a degree in Fashion Design and a second degree in Accessories design from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. I also had worked 12 years at a theatrical Broadway costume company called Barbara Matera Ltd where we made costumes for Broadway shows, movies, ballets, operas and TV shows. Not only was I trained in college to use lots of pins but when I use to work at the professional costume company were were trained there to pin cut patterned fabric an inch apart on the bias in the seam allowance. Pinning has always been very important. Especially if you are flat lining the cut patterns.
I'm very sorry if I sounded obnoxious about it. It's just pinning was ingrained into me for many decades. I know that there are special quilter's clips nowadays that you can buy and used to replace pinning, especially if you are trying to sew multiple layers or extra thick fabrics. And that's totally OK to do. No shame in doing that whatsoever. But when it comes to certain jobs you will find that you are going to need to use pins whether you like it or not.
📍👍
By the way, thank you for making this video. I do agree with you. There ARE indeed many ways to sew. I learned that while working at Barbara Matera Ltd and watching professional seamstresses from all over the world show me different and cool ways of getting the job done. I loved learning many of the secrets of the trade.
🧵🪡✂️👍
pro-pinners unite! we should get t-shirts. 😂
Thank you. I don't sew very well, but from my experience with knitting / crocheting I view patterns as suggestions only. Suggestions from a person for whom this worked and who wants to give me helpful hints on how to achive a similar result.
Re: changing needles, at 19:26, I think home seamstresses are not aware that this is from factory practices were workers spend 8 hours or more a day sewing constantly, a high volume of clothing on very powerful, high-speed machines. Someone who sews once a week probably does not need to change a needle as often. However, people acquire bad habits or just never learn better habits. Like the reader who wrote the submission you posted, my aunt has been sewing regularly for 50 years. Not only does she not change her needle EVER, but she wasn't really aware of the different size needles adapted to different fabrics or projects. Please, don't be like my aunt, dear reader! You can't sew silk and denim with the same size needle. Fur and neoprene require different needles. Satin sewn with a topstitching needle and thread will look awful. Needle, thread and fabric have to work together to get the best possible results. There are combinations that work best. Yes, if you've just sewn a prom dress, or 6 pyjama pants, you probably need to change the needle.
I'm guilty. I change the needle when it breaks. Might explain a few things...
I was almost tearing my hair out in frustration because my machine wouldn't stop skipping stitches... Magically solved after I changed the needle.
I started sewing a year ago and I thought "changing needles can't be that serious, they're probably just trying to get me to spend more money" and it went fine, until it didn't. Oopsie.
@@dorcasperkins1647lol
@@meacelestin why not?
Tried the purple thing and broke it pretty quick. Probably my fault. Now I use an old nut picker - sturdy metal, pointy tip, strong & was sitting unused in the kitchen drawer.
This made me chuckle a little because I'm guessing that most people don't have a nut picker or even know what that is. And because I use a tool for frilling the edge of sugar flowers for the same purpose, and I doubt most people have that or even know what it is either. I just used what was handy lol.
I bought one too.. hardly use it.. how easily we fall for marketing!!
I learned the trial and error way, sometimes the pattern aint right! Lol
so true!
I like the way you think, glad I found this today. I tend to think and sew the way you do 😊. The 3 foot rule is great…and no one should be closer than that anyway.
Great video, Sara! I agree with a lot of your opinions, especially the multiple lines of elastic!
Agreed about the seams. I still have some garments with unfinished seams and still wear them
I have been living under a rock!! When did stiching a hem from the top become "The Way" to create a hem. Sixty years ago when I learned to sew from my Mom, hem stiching like underware was something you don't want to see!! ;-D Type of garmet can make a difference in choice of hem to my recollection. Ultimately, I see Sewing as an art. There are all kinds of tools and mediums to work with. People often feel safer with rules to guide them, freedom is scary, too many options. In the past things were made to last, if broken could be repaired. Hence "Couture" seams, they were ment to last. Today if it comes undone "Toss It"! Our feture, we don't have to worry about "Globel Warming". We will be so well insuliated by our mountains of trash it won't be a problem. Unless you have asked for, or offered your garment up for critique, other people's opinions mean nothing. Thank you for letting individuals know they are Free to try it a different way. Mamaw's Opinion "Sewists On"!!💖
I totally agree that stitching on the wrong side of the hem is totally fine, the reason that people tell you to always stitch with the right side visible is so you can catch any thread issues as they are happening. Sometimes the bobbin thread will get pulled and looped but the right side will look fine so it is fine to just leave it, but if the bobbin side is on the right side and there are some issues you will have to redo it, but you won't see this until after you finished sewing the whole hem and there may be a large chunk that you will have to redo.
I love Rachel Maksy's channel because of number 9. She shows her process and mistakes, and she doesn't get it perfect every time. Sometimes their clothes come out better than others, but she's constantly learning and showing things she could have done better.
What a wonderful, reassuring video! As a “confident beginner” this was just the list of “lies” I needed to hear 😂
Glad it was helpful!
0:02 I think your video is very reassuring. Thankfully, the many sewists I’ve learned or listened to don’t teach in absolutes and are always positive.
I’ve been sewing for more than 40 years. I’m a pin-a-holic. And I collect different kinds of pins for different uses. I also hoard scissors.
I am an avid pinner. It must take a lot of experience to manage the shifting of the fabric at the sewing machine. I am currently working on a chiffon dress and I read that chiffon was too delicate to pin, while being slippery. Luckily, I also read that there were pins made specficaly for delicate fabrics. They are thin and sharp. So I got a box of those and I have been happily pinning away. Toilet paper between the layers of fabric also help with the shifting. I also changed the needle on my sewing machine.
i can't imagine trying to sew chiffon without pins. that would take someone much braver than me!
Many tips, such as not using pins to sew a seam came from industrial dewing, as a way to speed up construction. I have too many curves on my body not to pin my seams and sewing is a stress relief for me so I'm not in a rush to get done. One place I have removed pins from is the pattern and fabric. I use weights and a rotary cutter and scissors for sharp curves/angles.
Both of my grandmothers were seamstresses so I didn’t stand a chance, lol. I’ve been sewing for 40 years now, the first garment I made was a canary yellow jersey playsuit which is hilarious because I really don’t like yellow and jersey? I wish it was still around so I could see how bad it probably was on the inside 😂
I sewed all the time and made clothes for my kids but stopped for anything other than fixing hems, replacing buttons and making curtains when I moved house and didn’t have room for my industrial machine but I could pretty much sew blindfold up until then and barely used pins at all.
I picked it up again when the call went out to make scrubs for our NHS during the pandoodah and found that I’ve had to relearn so much and even though it’s been three years now I’m still struggling to even sew straight and I’m using TONS of pins, I’m also needing to unpick way too much which is so frustrating and I’m kind of grieving for the loss of knowledge and the tips and tricks and techniques I once knew.
I’ve always sewn hems on the wrong side so I can be sure I catch the edge otherwise I’d either miss completely or it’d look crap because I’d got a flappy bit and the fabric pulls out with wear and tear.
Oh my gosh! I soooo relate to this. I have three daughters that I used to sew for all the time, plus for myself. I also used to sew professionally for a children’s line. I fell away from sewing for 20ish years. I retired from a full time job 6 years ago and started sewing. I basically had to start from scratch, fitting has been a nightmare, but it’s still a fun hobby for me now.
I’m 73 and like you I learned to sew many years ago and made all my kids things. I stopped, like you and started again at about the same time as you and also mourn the loss of all I once knew and cannot remember. I have to be easy on myself. I take much longer now, I have to pin a ton, and I have a hard time getting started because I’m a closet perfectionist, for myself only. In other words, it’s easier for me to not try than to chance failing. My first 4 tries after I began sewing agin were total, terrible fails. I wanted to give up.
I’ve been sewing for over 50 years and have made many pants, and I have to say that TDCO pant fitting is the best and easiest method I have ever tried.
BUT, if you have a method that you like and that works well for you, then you should definitely stick with that! It’s that saying, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” There are lots of fitting methods, and everyone should feel free to find the one that works best for them. ❤️
absolutely! it seems as though TDCO has helped a lot of people and I think that is fantastic. it's only the mentality of "this is THE way" that starts to be unhelpful imo.
I love this and I hope that anyone new to sewing watches this and gives them the confidence to sew more. Some of the lies (or untold points) I think should be mentioned are:
Never sewing over pins, I was taught TO sew over them they have to be at a right angle to the foot, pin head facing outwards. Occasionally you will break a needle - but that happens anyway. If you don't feel conformable doing that don't do it but you can sew over them.
Calico is the only fabric to use for mock ups, this isn’t true and can in fact ruin your final garment. Instead choose a cheaper fabric with similar qualities to your final fabric to make your mock up with. This will give you the chance to see how it hangs and sits on your body.
I defiantly agree on reading instructions, as my other half loves to say "instructions are just someone else's opinions" ;)
I taught to sew over pins as well. This freaked out a friend of mine when we were having a sewing weekend. I was taught that in high school by the home ec teacher and by my sisters who sewed. I still do it today, especially if I have weird corner to stitch. I need those pins to stay in to keep all the weirdness in place. Oh yeah, I'm not supposed to use pins... well darn! 😅
@@gusmonster59 glad I wasn't the only one! I will say there is nothing worse than the sound of hitting a pin or breaking a needle. But that happens so rarely it's easier to see over them and take them out afterwards. I tried taking out before sewing but that really slows me down.
One time I was sewing over a pin and the needle broke and part of it flew up and hit my glasses that thankfully I was wearing!
I'm grateful for all sewists who post videos on RUclips. All the videos are not necessarily useful to me, but I appreciate your sharing your views and how-tos with me. Thank you.
absolutely! you never know when you might pick up something interesting.
Omg #6! So pattern instructions are so often rediculous. I've been sewing for over 50 years so I know how to do most any thing. I only occasionally follow the printed instructions.
I think this was one of the most useful videos you have done, Sara. Thank you!
thanks, i appreciate that!
I used to just run fray check along my seams. I still do that when I am doing small repairs. Pins - you can't make certain things without using pins. I think the 'no pins' things is fairly new. I use pins to hold things in place, to mark start/stops, etc.. I'm sitting at home sewing, no one knows if I am using pins, some fancy tool, cussing out that pleat, whatever. As for 'rehoming' (really? REHOME clothing?) - none of anyone's business. I give the things I no longer wear to the local women's shelter. I may no longer like/wear it, but some woman who has lost her entire world will be thrilled to have it. I used to follow an historic seamstress. She would often show her mistakes, like the time she sewed the skirt panels together wrong, to show everyone she wasn't perfect and made mistakes even with decades of sewing under her belt.
Another lie - You have to have some fancy arse computerized machine to be an accomplished sewer. I actually had a fancy arse machine and got rid of it because it was so persnickety. I traded it in for an older, mechanical Necchi. She'll stitch anything I throw at her without pitching a fit, locking up or freaking out. She is also far easier to care for since the heat or cold doesn't bother her non-existent computer parts. I'll never, ever go back to a computerized machine.
I have taken apart some expensive blazers to see what's going on inside and they almost never have finished seams.
Hi Sara! This was a great video! Let me recap on some things.. I definitely use a lot of pins, and I just made a skirt that had the many channel situation that you were referring too and I did not do that either. I used on big wide piece and that was it! I was going to topstitch to keep the look but I decided not to. I think it's helpful to share the imperfect makes online because of the possibility of helping someone else. Very fun video! Thanks for sharing!
Yes, great video and myth-busting. I understand beginning desists who take or in my case took classes waaaaay back when, you are taught certain ways based on the teacher(s)you had. I’m still learning and love it! With experience you can make informed decisions to “break” the rules. Shows & classes are usually set up to sell the consumer something…. Easy to get caught up in the hype and want to buy all new toys. Again, experience and perhaps budget can curb the buying frenzy. I’m glad there is more info available online for folks to learn from but you have to be wary of the ones who say it’s the ONLY way to do something. I haven’t used a cutting layout for a pattern in decades…. I may reference them to get an idea but usually don’t follow the instructions.
As for the stretch Stich, or lightning stitch, it’s a fixed length on my machines and waaaay to short for my liking. What a pain if you have to rip it out. Nancy Zieman used a 0.5mm zigzag- you pick the length for a stretch Stich and I find that works great (when not using my serger). Thank you for sharing this information and I hope it helps everyone!
i totally agree about the lightning stitch. i hardly ever use it on my machine.
Don't want to sew through your finger! :D I've done that--I thought it was kind of an initiation... Lovely video. I've been sewing for 50 years and this is great!
i don't think i've sewn through my finger but i have sliced it with a rotary cutter. it was bad. no one should do that.
I totally agree with everything but stay stitching is something I think needs to be done or using stay tape. I have forgotten and been sorry 😢. Great topic!
People can pry quilting cottons from my cold dead hands. They make great double and triple full circle skirts. Apparel fabric just doesn't come in enough fun or lively prints. Though i have been heavily favoring batiks more and more this past summer when making my skirts for me and my neice.
I do change my needle frequently when I need to use a a 100, 110 or 120 just because it going thru so much thick fabric but my 70's and 80's uhh i forgot the last time i changed it before my current heavy duty project
This is so helpful as we have all been beginners and nervous. I live by the 3ft rule! ♥️
I just came across this video and your channel! New subbie here! Loved this video!! I've only been sewing garments for the past couple years and I have to say that this video really hit home for me. I really just do what works for me. I don't think that there should be rules or only one way to do something. Why put oneself in a box and just become frustrated and possibly even quit sewing altogether? I don't have a "purple thing" but I do have an inexpensive sewing awl that is always at hand. Thanks so much for this uplifting video!
i'm glad you enjoyed it! thanks so much for watching.
Something to consider when following pattern instructions is the age of the pattern. Many "new" fabrics and notions came out with the plastics industry and the rise of the baby boomer sewing age group. New elastics, fabrics, etc were produced, especially from the 80s to the 2000s. Wide athletic elastics replaced dainty lingerie elastics. New fabrics didn't ravel when cut, etc. So if you are looking at a vintage pattern take a moment to think about the fabrics, notions and techniques you have available to you that weren't available when the pattern was written and make your own decisions on what to follow and what not to.
I use a wooden skewer instead of the purple thing, works great.
I taught myself how to sew my own clothes starting at 12 back in the sixties. Had no living grandparents, and no relatives lived in our state. My mom didn't see, nor was she domestic in any way (she actually looked down on me and my wanting to cook, bake and sew. So I have few skills, but lots of determination. I did figure out after several years to find some way to finish my seams. My favorite is the French seam, but it is not always practical on different garments. My first try was using pinking shears. I have also done some creative sewing putting in a small thin strip of fabric to cover an entire seam that is finished completely with no threads showing anywhere. I recently bought a high end garment at a thrift store that I found had the same type of finished seams. Boy did that make me happy. I had been told decades ago that I was wasting my time and effort that made no sense!
Thankfully I stopped listening to other people when I saw they did not sew clothes, just curtains and easy projects like pillow cases.
But am thoroughly enjoying your video!❤️ I am surrounded with no family members who sew or even friends and neighbors that sew. Your channel is such a joy to me❤
thank you! i'm glad you're enjoying it.
Another statement I find confusing for beginners, is referring to stretch fabrics as 2 or 4 way stretch. You cannot stretch to the right but not to the left or only upwards but not downwards! Saying 2 way stretch is not enough, you always need to specify, mostly "around your body". It is more useful to indicate whether the garment needs fabric with little or more stretch and it's directionality. I totally agree that there are many ways to achieve the same result and experience will tell which one is best for a person. Nowadays there are lots of tools and books and you may end up with a lot while using very little. I learned sewing on a mechanical sewing machine with straight stitch only and clothes looked good, while taking more time to make because of the amount of additional hand sewing required. I like to watch on RUclips people explaining techniques and I choose the ones that I can understand and apply. I need to understand the logic of doing. I first test then I use in a real garment.
Measure yourself, measure something similar you like to wear and measure the pattern! Don't rely on your "size". Each brand has its own size system and more often than not, the key elements: bust point, hip, shoulder slope, are in different places than in the pattern. You will have to make minor adjustments. Then cut as appropriate, if possible for the first time in a muslin (inexpensive same type of fabric). Often you are not happy with the result because of poor fit, not because of poor sewing, most of the time you are the only one to notice the accuracy of the sewing.
I don't use stretch/zigzag stitches, I never liked them. I use stretch thread instead. Both Guttermann and Amman brands have them in many colours (the name ends in flex: Seraflex...). No popped stitches anymore.
Stretch fabrics , especially knits are easy to work with, and they don't fray, no need to clean the seams. Moreover, raw seams on the outside of the garment are often fashionable! For heavy or slippery fabrics clips are better than pins. Pins may leave unwanted holes.Hems can be glued with two-sided special tape. Test before using. Handy with knits.
Grain matters for the hang of clothes e.g. out of grain often causes twisting of the pant leg or of the skirt.
I started sewing by collecting material from charity shops and also online where people were giving away spare fabrics it keeps my costs down.
that's wonderful!
First video of yours I've seen, and love this! I've been sewing on & off for >40 years, mostly self taught via PBS shows & patterns. Amazing now with so many indie patterns & yT get to see ideas from around the world, and my favorite is an atelier in Japan. Such precision, wow.. I've always approached sewing as "problem solving" & rarely does anyone else know what the pattern drawing shows! Though I wish I knew more about FBA and altering patterns decades ago.... Different materials take different approaches, too. What you do for a tweed wool is not the same as silk Charmeuse. I love sewing because I love great fabric, though I collect fabric faster than I sew! And only a few months ago tried using a serger a neighbor gave me & love it, but still prefer other finishes if they may be seen.... Stay stitching a myth? Like all, it depends--you can ruin a neck line if you stay stitch the wrong direction (done that) or skip it (done that), but some fabrics tolerate anything (or recover/hide mistakes--one reason I love wool & good pressing!). But I wish I didn't skip understitching as much as I had!
Love this video, so spot on and interesting. I have to say I am in the habit of stay stitching a garment because it's always the first instruction in the pattern instructions.😊
totally! but sometimes instructions don't tell you to do it and it's 50/50 whether i'll remember to do it on my own.
@@knottygnome true
With appropriate stay stitching you can make a full circle skirt that hangs level so you can hem it with a shirt tail hem and not not be trying to get a level hem line with marking and trimming.
Agree with almost every word, argh, that pins one is infuriating! And then they start "but factory workers don't use pins!". Yeah, factory workers also sew the left sleeve in for months, even I would get better (not necessarily good) with that much practice. And only people with good motor skills stay at factories and are able to meet the requirements for speed and amount sewn, so it's basically very ableist comment. We are somehow expected to meet the skill of people who are both able, and practice for long hours every day, and then sewing the seams is a very small part of the skills a home sewist has to have, because we are the whole factory staff, stuffed into one person.