I have the EXACT same injury from doing 2 finger pocket one arms and it made a huge popping sound. All tests and differential diagnosis is the same as yours. I’d love to see the recovery of this
Funny, I got exact same symptoms i.e. pain along left ring finger and forearm occurs only when pinky is bent but not when they work together. I now climb on it but just never use the good ol' 3-finger drag. I guess I'll introduce some light hangboarding to slowly adapt it in a couple of weeks.
Waiting for the next video. I also have ring finger and forearm discomfort. I have tennis elbow too. Watching this I can think that the pain of ring finger is coming from my forearm. Thank you! But I'm hoping for the next video for the solutions!
Could you make a video on achilles pain and calf deconditioning? I suffered an ankle sprain 6 months ago and now it has affected my achilles and calf. Have been getting lots of flare ups when doing the traditional physio excercises (calf raises) which last 4 days, and am wondering if you have any tips.
This is what I suspected happened to me as well. I've struggled with sensitive FDP on both my ringfingers since I began climbing. I've been actively climbing for a year now and my climbing has improved a lot but when climbing 2-finger pockets and open-hand I'm still restricted because of my "weak" and sensitive ringfingers. No issues when crimping.
@@callmetarif I have to climb with a taped finger and cant do pockets. I am climbing at my limit again even though I know its not a good idea. Im using tape and i dont feel any pain whatsoever. I hope I dont feel a twitch again. That would suck
@@MrDummyKicker yo thnks for your answer, I'm considering to do the exact same. Haven't been to the doctor. But I think I have to tape Middle, Ring and Pinky together. Life's shit without climbing 😂 happy healing! Keep me updated.
I think i have fdp on my ringfinger, but since i can still move it it means it isnt teared Just damaged. It happened during judo. Pretty sure it should heal itself, but i can see my blood like pumping my finger- tip is Just like pumping it seems i can feel my heart beat basically in my finger tip.
Experiencing this problem right now only in the pinky finger of My left hand, where there is a popping or restriction when bending the pinky towards the palm of the hand. Massaging the tendons near the elbow crease seem to bring slight improvement. Any suggestions or feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated
I may right now have the exactly same injury: ring finger hurts only when pinkie bent. But pinkie also hurts only when ring finger bent. It is more likely a lumbrical injury, according to this Hooper's Beta video: ruclips.net/video/lKuidJ9QTMU/видео.html
@@CoNieMaSobieRownych Finding out it's a lumbrical injury, I'm fine to climb immediately. Though bending without pinkie should be avoid, so I taped ring and pinkie together when I climb. I fully recovered after about 10 weeks since injury.
Hi, how is your finger after some time? Did you have any problems after the recovery? I heard a pop and felt something in my hand/forearm while jumping to the 3 finger pocket yesterday. It didn't even hurt that much. It wasn't swollen or anything but hurts quite badly ONLY when pinky is separated. Was it similiar in your case?
@@janekboulders I did not feel anything strange after recovery. Your injury sounds similar. But I'm a beginner climber and have not done a lot of pockets... I think it is important to correctly dignose your injury.
@@physioevangelist thanks for your reply. Mine’s a tricky one. I have had A2 pulley issues but this turns out is slightly different. I have pulled something in my hand I think. The thing is it doesn’t hurt at all, not even when I climb, but then I’ll do something random and it’s like a knife through my hand. And idea to help would be appreciated. For my A2 pulleys too. I look forward to your next informative video. Excellent work! 👍👍
i have this. how did you fix it in 4 minutes?
Literally the best video I have ever watched on finger injuries, instant sub !!!
These informative videos you upload are GREAT and extremely helpful! Please keep these videos coming! ♥♥♥
Thanks bro, appreciate it
@@physioevangelist ♥♥♥
I have the EXACT same injury from doing 2 finger pocket one arms and it made a huge popping sound. All tests and differential diagnosis is the same as yours. I’d love to see the recovery of this
1:41 so funny
Thank you for this video. Very helpful and well spoken!
You're very welcome!
Super useful information dude, thank you 😎👍
This is excellent!
Thx! Appreciate it
This is amazing! Many thanks
Funny, I got exact same symptoms i.e. pain along left ring finger and forearm occurs only when pinky is bent but not when they work together. I now climb on it but just never use the good ol' 3-finger drag. I guess I'll introduce some light hangboarding to slowly adapt it in a couple of weeks.
great video , would love to see how you will rehab it as i can't find any exercices that works the fdp expect finger rolls .
Waiting for the next video. I also have ring finger and forearm discomfort. I have tennis elbow too. Watching this I can think that the pain of ring finger is coming from my forearm. Thank you! But I'm hoping for the next video for the solutions!
Could you make a video on achilles pain and calf deconditioning? I suffered an ankle sprain 6 months ago and now it has affected my achilles and calf. Have been getting lots of flare ups when doing the traditional physio excercises (calf raises) which last 4 days, and am wondering if you have any tips.
This is what I suspected happened to me as well. I've struggled with sensitive FDP on both my ringfingers since I began climbing. I've been actively climbing for a year now and my climbing has improved a lot but when climbing 2-finger pockets and open-hand I'm still restricted because of my "weak" and sensitive ringfingers. No issues when crimping.
Yea man, finger pockets are my weakness
Great video
How long did you take to completely heal?
how long is recovery. I badly want to be back in the climbing gym and it only hurts when I flex it
Still in pain?
@@callmetarif I have to climb with a taped finger and cant do pockets. I am climbing at my limit again even though I know its not a good idea. Im using tape and i dont feel any pain whatsoever. I hope I dont feel a twitch again. That would suck
@@MrDummyKicker yo thnks for your answer, I'm considering to do the exact same. Haven't been to the doctor. But I think I have to tape Middle, Ring and Pinky together. Life's shit without climbing 😂 happy healing! Keep me updated.
I still feel it but I think I'm recovering lifting easy weights with the lattice pinch block
I sprained my thumb when during boxing how to fix it sir? It’s painful and swelling now
Brace it for a while then do isometrics bro
I think i have fdp on my ringfinger, but since i can still move it it means it isnt teared Just damaged. It happened during judo. Pretty sure it should heal itself, but i can see my blood like pumping my finger- tip is Just like pumping it seems i can feel my heart beat basically in my finger tip.
I felt something on my pullup. Based on this it seems most likely to be fds. What can i do?
If it's fds then rehab the fds by gradually loading the tendon
Experiencing this problem right now only in the pinky finger of My left hand, where there is a popping or restriction when bending the pinky towards the palm of the hand. Massaging the tendons near the elbow crease seem to bring slight improvement. Any suggestions or feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated
I would love to know more about the pain with the raised pinky. Any sources where I can read more about it? That's exactly my issue.
I may right now have the exactly same injury: ring finger hurts only when pinkie bent. But pinkie also hurts only when ring finger bent. It is more likely a lumbrical injury, according to this Hooper's Beta video: ruclips.net/video/lKuidJ9QTMU/видео.html
How are you now? Do you mind sharing how your healing went?
@@CoNieMaSobieRownych Finding out it's a lumbrical injury, I'm fine to climb immediately. Though bending without pinkie should be avoid, so I taped ring and pinkie together when I climb. I fully recovered after about 10 weeks since injury.
@@aniimam5523 thank you very much for your reply! Wish you an injury free year! :)
Hi, how is your finger after some time? Did you have any problems after the recovery? I heard a pop and felt something in my hand/forearm while jumping to the 3 finger pocket yesterday. It didn't even hurt that much. It wasn't swollen or anything but hurts quite badly ONLY when pinky is separated. Was it similiar in your case?
@@janekboulders I did not feel anything strange after recovery. Your injury sounds similar. But I'm a beginner climber and have not done a lot of pockets... I think it is important to correctly dignose your injury.
What's the fix/rehab for this ? Pls respond
Thanks for making this video
And thank you for commenting❤️
Great video. Now I know what the problem is. But how do I fix it? :(
You're asking the right questions. 😂 I'll make a video on that soon. Btw, what's your problem?
@@physioevangelist thanks for your reply. Mine’s a tricky one. I have had A2 pulley issues but this turns out is slightly different. I have pulled something in my hand I think. The thing is it doesn’t hurt at all, not even when I climb, but then I’ll do something random and it’s like a knife through my hand. And idea to help would be appreciated. For my A2 pulleys too. I look forward to your next informative video. Excellent work! 👍👍
@@physioevangelist When's this other video coming out? I have the same symptoms ring finger only hurts when pinky is bent. Any rehab suggestions?
@@physioevangelist waiting...🙏
fuck I did the raised pinky test and nearly fainted
How is it 1 year later?
me too, in ring fingrt😂
Bro how you doing now