Rehabbing Injured Fingers | Finger Rehab for Climbing
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- REHABBING AN INJURED FINGER?
Injuries do happen, unfortunately...! In this video, we have Coach and Climber Maddy doing a reflective look back on her recent rehab strategy for a painful finger.
Maddy had suffered a tweak in her index finger, so we thought it would be the perfect time to share her approach to how she's dealt with this setback and what methods she's used to getting fully back on track.
STEP ONE: Maddy makes an assessment of where she's at (what hurts, what pain levels are and what aggravates it)
STEP TWO: She puts in an immediate action plan. A rest week to find a baseline!
STEP THREE: In the following week there's an action plan for loading on the injured side (as well as the uninjured side) - but it's very carefully moderated! Lifting devices are especially convenient and efficient for this.
STEP FOUR: Testing the intensity again. Maddy then starts to assess the ongoing progress in rehab on both the climbing wall AND the fingerboard.
STEP FIVE: As her rehab progresses, the intensity very slowly increases and still a variety of grip positions are explored in these sessions. Remember, that rehab is a constant process of feedback and iteration of training load!
LAST STEP: Maddy integrates the harder fingerboarding into the de-load week and if successful, then the next cycle will then include the normal structure of more intense climbing AND fingerboarding in combination.
If you're interested in physio, injuries and rehab methods, you can get access to support and knowledge in our Lattice 365 service (which is also 100% free if you're on a Premium Plan with us!!):
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I've had really good experience with daily fingerboard session 5x30s open hand and 5x30s half crimp with feet on the floor (~30% body weight) and around 1min rest in between. Had to fight with tweaking fingers (especially pulleys) for more than 2 years before and this has helped me so much!
what is a 5x30 ?
I've been struggling with a sprained A4 for the last 9 months, every time it seems to be healed I go re-tweak it! It's so frustrating - however watching this video I can see where I've made mistakes in my rehabbing. Thanks for the video!
Perfect timing. I just tweaked my hand at the gym last night. Thanks Maddy 😁
Did that to my shoulder yesterday 😉
Maddy's "jugs" look like my project holds haha! Nice work.
Brilliant, thanks Maddy!
Having just tweaked my ring finger this is really useful 👍🏻
Thks a lot this video is very helpfull and verry good!
That is amazingly helpful. Thank you!
Excellent rehab techniques. Having an injured finger sucks!
Thanks for this video! Would you mind sharing how you keep track of your day to day routine and planning?
Very useful, thanks a lot
seriously, subtitles, or the posibility to put sub, in english, of course. your channel would have so much more followers.
There is
@@guido88 no, there isnt.
@@jarritoforestal1 its strange! I have subtitles in english 🤔
@@guido88 auto-subs.. too bad. I mean a really subs.
Why? She's speaking clearly and English is not even my first language
Nice video. Anyone at Lattice care to share their opinions on the "2 a day hangboarding" for prehab/rehab?
gotta check out their lattice 365 group dan
@@hyau23 Will do fren
I would definitely like to see what Lattice thinks about Emil’s program
@@arimesser5822 Let's not foget that Eric Hörst came up with it first, but yes! :)
I'm constantly getting finger tweaks. I feel like I'm never 100%. I was wondering, is it common for elite climbers to have some injury year round and simply train around it?
If you are constantly tweaking your fingers you should reconsider your way of training.
Either you are too weak or you dont rest enough. Controlled strength training like with a finger board helps a LOT with finger injuries because you build up your resilience to injuries. Most tweaks happen while being fatigued, pushing too hard, doing dynamic moves to or off small holds.
Try implementing a proper fingerboard routine. It will also benefit the rest of your climbing. Hope thats good advice
What's your take on cracking your knuckles?
The more the better
Pretty sure Hoopers Beta talked about this. Check him out, he’s a physical therapist and trainer. My second favorite climbing channel, after lattice!
I'm a 90 kg climber, I climb and train on pretty miniscule holds, I feel it more on my elbows than anywhere else.
Seems like you didn’t do any rehab, you just let the finger rest for 5 weeks?
This is actually the perfect video for me - thought i had a pulley injury, but there was no popping, no swelling, no pain, and like you say, only discomfort when I pull on it. Definitely feels like more of a "twinge". So im going to follow this - thank you!
During exercise I feel like I was always taught as a kid to just push through the pain, so i geniunely have such a hard time figuring out a personal limit for myself, I can not seem to feel the natural stopping point to prevent pain after the exercise.
I think ,amazing . This helped me pay attention to my technique, proper holds ,Thankyou for sharing things for us to learn an continue progression ,
Me personally ,I think hang-boarding rehabs an strengthens your whole body.
I climb and Iv had one spine surgery at 27 and because of hang boards I’m up and walking straight pain free everyday now
how abt another vid talking abt rehab after ankle inversion?