Thank you! I experienced the "honeymoon" phase of climbing in my first 3 months, I would climb 2-3 hour sessions 3-4 days a week without a problem and went from V1-2 to V4-5 in that time. Unfortunately nobody warned me about how to go into it, and I just winged it because I was having fun. And then one day I pulled a little too hard on a crimp and my fingers just never got back to where they were. It's so difficult to know how to slowly and systematically recover/retrain. 2.5 years later and I'm still unsure. Just when I think they start to be improving I move one step too quickly and my fingers start to hurt again.
Please make a part 2 on avoiding traumatic injuries! I've been looking for information on this and there is almost nothing online... Even just knowing some of the most common traumatic injuries that happen from poor technique or safety would be a really helpful video to watch.
What do you mean by a "traumatic" injury? Repetative strain injuries like these do result from trauma, albeit smaller and repeated traumas. Are you referring to gravity-related injuries, like decking, or being hit by rock-fall? There's certainly tons of content out there about general climbing safety, but its likely best to start with a course, or direct mentorship of some sort.
There are way too many ways to get injured climbing for a concise video to get into. My personal recommendation is to never get complacent about climbing, don't start taking lazy safety shortcuts.
- train yourself to fall without ever reaching back with your arms, build the habit of tucking them when you fall - If you think you could fall on something, always make sure your going down on your feet (or back if it's inside and low). Either bail and wait until you get stronger, or work it on a rope until you know you can do the move without falling in a weird way, or just give up since it's too risky. - never climb anywhere with edges to twist ankles. If the gym has gaps in the mats or the edges of mats are in falling distance, don't climb there. Always make a good landing area for outside climbs and always have a spotter. - do strength training, especially for upper body push and legs. Both are very useful in lowering injury risk from falling and both are regularly ignored by climbers
@@CandesceThere are definitely some more probable things they could cover like falling with arms outstretched arms or on locked legs. But it just doesn't seem very useful because It's pretty obvious when some sudden traumatic injury could occur. I don't think I've been to a bouldering gym where "don't fall on outstretched arms" isn't the first thing they tell you, even if it wasn't very obvious. We humans have a good sense for danger, even if we do seek it out sometimes. Like you say - not getting complacent is the important thing, and I don't think a video is really going to help with that.
As a climber with 2 injured fingers, 2 injured elbows, 1 injured shoulder and 1 injured hip, I wholeheartedly agree. The only reason those kids in the gym climb harder than me is because they cheat by not being injured.
Great video! All my non-trauma injuries have come from ramping up to fast. I am trying to apply this to any kind of training and let my body adjust before adding anything new.
i have golfer elbow. strength training and no stretching has been working for me. also, compression therapy helps. I've also dropped my sessions from 3 hr every second day to 3 hr 3 days a week. i also do lots of active recovery
Great video! I’ve found regular hang boarding before my climbing sessions invaluable. My fingers are stronger, have been injured less frequently, and much less tweaky. I work up to 85% max and do 3-5 sets of 10 ✌️
The only injury i ever have had is recently when i injured my ankle. I would never have guessed that to be my first injury. It was not even a fall but during a static move
I hope recovery goes well. Ankles can be annoying in my experience (a break a few years back). Really hard to control the swelling due to the location and need to move/walk all day.
Could you make a video about going back to climbing after foot injuries? Having a broken foot at the moment I am unsure how to even approach going back... Cheers.
i had my middle finger second phalanx injured, no specific event just started hurting at the end of the climbing, could you refer me to one of your videos for information on how to recover from the injury?
Yes, very true! This is made worse by the "honeymoon phase" when people just find the sport or start a new plan. It's fun and exciting so really hard to hold back.
hey, so ive had this on and off pain since ive started climbing in my right middle and ring. its fine if i dont climb, but once i hold onto anything that decompressed the joints it hurts, so basically anything but crimps. Im still climbing tho and it only takes about 2-3 days for the pain to go away so im assuming its not bad if ive still been getting better on hurt fingers. I know youre not medical professionals but i thought id still ask for your input on my fingers.
You should definitely consider to lower the volume of your training and properly warming up before climbing and, if this does not work you might want to take one or two weeks off.
Really hard to say what the issue is, but if climbing aggravates it and load modification does not help, reach out to a climbing physio/PT. Unfortunately many 'general' physios/PT's don't give climbing specific advise or exercises to help you return to climbing hard and without pain.
I have gotten a weird injury thats not serious but it keeps happening. It's like a strain under my left shoulderblade. When it occurs, it hurts to breathe and I can't climb at my best. After three to five days the pain goes away. It's very weird, it started happening every other month or so when I started climbing one year ago. Does anyone have tips on what exercises or stretches I need to do? I went to a rehab-place but the exercise I got from them don't seem to do anything...
I’m no doc but I had similar issues. My two cents is, if your not doing it already, to strength train your whole body every week. I use the format of squat, hinge push and pull and I do 3 sets of one of those movement types in the 10-12 rep range after each climbing session (when I have time). Combine that with good sleep and sufficient quality food it goes a long way.
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Thank you! I experienced the "honeymoon" phase of climbing in my first 3 months, I would climb 2-3 hour sessions 3-4 days a week without a problem and went from V1-2 to V4-5 in that time. Unfortunately nobody warned me about how to go into it, and I just winged it because I was having fun. And then one day I pulled a little too hard on a crimp and my fingers just never got back to where they were. It's so difficult to know how to slowly and systematically recover/retrain. 2.5 years later and I'm still unsure. Just when I think they start to be improving I move one step too quickly and my fingers start to hurt again.
oh, is it better yet?
Please make a part 2 on avoiding traumatic injuries! I've been looking for information on this and there is almost nothing online... Even just knowing some of the most common traumatic injuries that happen from poor technique or safety would be a really helpful video to watch.
What do you mean by a "traumatic" injury? Repetative strain injuries like these do result from trauma, albeit smaller and repeated traumas.
Are you referring to gravity-related injuries, like decking, or being hit by rock-fall? There's certainly tons of content out there about general climbing safety, but its likely best to start with a course, or direct mentorship of some sort.
There are way too many ways to get injured climbing for a concise video to get into. My personal recommendation is to never get complacent about climbing, don't start taking lazy safety shortcuts.
- train yourself to fall without ever reaching back with your arms, build the habit of tucking them when you fall
- If you think you could fall on something, always make sure your going down on your feet (or back if it's inside and low). Either bail and wait until you get stronger, or work it on a rope until you know you can do the move without falling in a weird way, or just give up since it's too risky.
- never climb anywhere with edges to twist ankles. If the gym has gaps in the mats or the edges of mats are in falling distance, don't climb there. Always make a good landing area for outside climbs and always have a spotter.
- do strength training, especially for upper body push and legs. Both are very useful in lowering injury risk from falling and both are regularly ignored by climbers
@@CandesceThere are definitely some more probable things they could cover like falling with arms outstretched arms or on locked legs. But it just doesn't seem very useful because It's pretty obvious when some sudden traumatic injury could occur. I don't think I've been to a bouldering gym where "don't fall on outstretched arms" isn't the first thing they tell you, even if it wasn't very obvious. We humans have a good sense for danger, even if we do seek it out sometimes. Like you say - not getting complacent is the important thing, and I don't think a video is really going to help with that.
This is a great guide, but I won't be following it.... not being injured is aid.
Being injured is also aid since it makes you work on weaknesses
As a climber with 2 injured fingers, 2 injured elbows, 1 injured shoulder and 1 injured hip, I wholeheartedly agree. The only reason those kids in the gym climb harder than me is because they cheat by not being injured.
Climbing is aid, I just jump to any hold I see
Yh I’m having my hands amputated for less aid
as much as i hate myself for it, this comment seems to sum up my approach to climbing pretty damn well
Great video! All my non-trauma injuries have come from ramping up to fast. I am trying to apply this to any kind of training and let my body adjust before adding anything new.
Apropos timing after seeing Will's regular sesh. We'd all be injured if we started training like that. That's elite load and tolerance right there!
i have golfer elbow. strength training and no stretching has been working for me. also, compression therapy helps. I've also dropped my sessions from 3 hr every second day to 3 hr 3 days a week. i also do lots of active recovery
I think to train the wrists may also helps to avoid finger injuries. Wrist training is underastimated in climbing, unfortunately
At 1:04 the video mentions wrist rehab tools with no link. Could you provide that?
Sorry, link didn't work. Should be fixed now. Copy of the link here - latticetraining.com/product/heavy-roller-wrist-training/
Great video! I’ve found regular hang boarding before my climbing sessions invaluable. My fingers are stronger, have been injured less frequently, and much less tweaky. I work up to 85% max and do 3-5 sets of 10 ✌️
The only injury i ever have had is recently when i injured my ankle. I would never have guessed that to be my first injury. It was not even a fall but during a static move
Same injury, i fell on a kid that runned under me
I hope recovery goes well. Ankles can be annoying in my experience (a break a few years back). Really hard to control the swelling due to the location and need to move/walk all day.
Could you make a video about going back to climbing after foot injuries? Having a broken foot at the moment I am unsure how to even approach going back... Cheers.
Great video like always!
Physiotherapist and climber here. Cudos for the disclaimer in the beginning and also for bringing on a physio for this type of video!
i had my middle finger second phalanx injured, no specific event just started hurting at the end of the climbing, could you refer me to one of your videos for information on how to recover from the injury?
What app is being used at 7:39 to log his training? 7:39
The Lattice Training App. We provide all our coaching plans over this App.
It is so hard as an amateur to know what the right load should be at a certain time.
I think it's at least as hard for pros, at least the ones that don't have a coach sleeping in their living room
Yes, very true! This is made worse by the "honeymoon phase" when people just find the sport or start a new plan. It's fun and exciting so really hard to hold back.
hey, so ive had this on and off pain since ive started climbing in my right middle and ring. its fine if i dont climb, but once i hold onto anything that decompressed the joints it hurts, so basically anything but crimps. Im still climbing tho and it only takes about 2-3 days for the pain to go away so im assuming its not bad if ive still been getting better on hurt fingers. I know youre not medical professionals but i thought id still ask for your input on my fingers.
You should definitely consider to lower the volume of your training and properly warming up before climbing and, if this does not work you might want to take one or two weeks off.
Really hard to say what the issue is, but if climbing aggravates it and load modification does not help, reach out to a climbing physio/PT. Unfortunately many 'general' physios/PT's don't give climbing specific advise or exercises to help you return to climbing hard and without pain.
Cool vid! Good info
Glad it was helpful!
What took are you using to track your work load?
We calculate training load with a bespoke plan writing tool. We use this when writing training plans for our clients.
I have gotten a weird injury thats not serious but it keeps happening. It's like a strain under my left shoulderblade. When it occurs, it hurts to breathe and I can't climb at my best. After three to five days the pain goes away. It's very weird, it started happening every other month or so when I started climbing one year ago. Does anyone have tips on what exercises or stretches I need to do? I went to a rehab-place but the exercise I got from them don't seem to do anything...
I’m no doc but I had similar issues. My two cents is, if your not doing it already, to strength train your whole body every week. I use the format of squat, hinge push and pull and I do 3 sets of one of those movement types in the 10-12 rep range after each climbing session (when I have time). Combine that with good sleep and sufficient quality food it goes a long way.
What think about a wild boy collab with SToRRoR ( family ) an Magnus. Be some of the top peak athletes in there skill range.
Just a day late. Blown my second pulley yesterday 😢
Oh no! Wishing you a speedy recovery!
An easy way to avoid injury is don't get older 😂
Sad but true
#1 tip right here!
Injuries suck!
They certainly do!