Experimenting with Defender door seals - Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
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britrest@britrest.com
Britannica Restorations Ltd
9 Ch. Rawson
Sherbrooke
Quebec
J1M2A3
Canada
Exactly what we found , aftermarket seals are far to hard , genuine every time for us , never have a problem.
We used to spend hours trying to get the doors to shut with aftermarket.
Keep up the good work.😁
Watch out for my tests coming soon!
My Defender had work done on the B pillers and in the process of doing the work, the garage fitted new door seals. Since then, the drivers side door has needed to be slammed to shut it, and will occasionally pop open when driving. When viewed from the rear, the door also stands about 5m proud of the body work at the mid point where it bulges out. I've moved the striker plate and have played with the number of shims etc but nothing seems to work in terms of improving the situation. However, last night when having another go at trying to sort the problem, I decided to measure the thickness of the door seal front to back. The seal on the passenger side door (which is nice and flush to the bodyvwork) measures about 26mm and finishes roughly flush with the outside of the body work, however, the problematic driver's side measures about 30mm and stands slightly proud. The difference between the two measurements being roughly equal to the amount by which the drivers door stands proud. Looks like a change of seal may be the solution.....?
Does anyone remember the last day of defender production,
The news in the UK were showing the final one of the line and in the background
all you can see is the worker checking the door, grabbing one corner and up where you bent it and giving it a massive twist, closes the door and walks away Job Done!!!!!!
Cheers Billy!
Mike
Ever since i changed the drivers door seal to a new one , had nothing but trouble . Adjusting striker and re adjusting to no avail. Thank you .Garbage door seals
Fantastic Mike,
I'm glad you found your way around this problem.
Still not resolved but it seems the aftermarket seals have no give in them - keep watching as I will have an update soon
Hi Mike I work with trucks and I've noticed that modern seals are far softer and the main tube is made from a rubber that has a sort of internal Styrofoam make up that makes it very soft and flexible but on the downside it wears ot quicker
As I am still 30 years in the past I have not seen them! Maybe do it that way to save the shafts?
I recently ripped off all the nasty hard reproduction door seals on my Series 2a and put on (Oreilly autoparts - in USA) self adhesive door seal - it's lovely and soft and makes closing the doors a pleasure!
I’d be terrified of doing that with my doors Mike, they’d end up as a pile of rust on my drive!
Hmm, sign on old age!
Britannica Restorations Ltd original doors so yes getting on for 29 years now! To be fair they aren’t that bad and still have years left but wouldn’t look great on something your working on!
...that fix earns you a Blue Peter Badge, Mike..... :D
I actually have a real BP badge!
MIke
LMAO!!
your new passion for rubbers..... :-) keep it 'up'!
Hmm,
Lol!
I have some exciting updates and I think I am on the right track
Mike
Oh the joys of the doors I’m going to try and twist the door to get a better seal
These seals have holes in them but obviously not enough I put in about 5 extra in between the ones that where already in the seal and it’s made a hell of a difference
I had the problem with the new door seals I bought for my mk2 Escort tmhey where not originals I had to slam the doors to shut them so I used a soldering iron at the back edge of the seal and it made a difference it closes a lot better as it expels the air from seal and allowing the seal to co,press
These seals do have the holes - sadly they are so hard they will not compress
Please do a electric window conversion next. My doors are the last big job, bottom rust, rattling windows, rusted hinges, non existent clean lines when ‘shut’ and manuel.
It is on my list of things to do
Mike
genius i'll be twisting my doors in tomorrow.
Lot's of people try to shim doors when all they need is a twist!
Bang on about corners Spend the money on Oem seals as the cheap ones are fused together with a glue which bonds together making it slightly thicker on the joint hence stiffer
The problem is Alec - OEM seals are mostly aftermarket Indian seals and too hard
Sadly the OEM tag is no longer a guarantee of aftermarket quality - I have seen this creeping in for years
Ya can take the lad art o' Yorkshire , but ya can't take the Yorkshire art o' the lad ! "A blind man on a gallopin' horse wouldn't notice that" PMSL .
Looking forward to the xxxxth episode of this Land Rover seal saga MIke . All good stuff mind . I'm confident you'll find a solution . Yorkshire lads wain't be beat . LOL
Fattrucker
I have ordered genuine Puma seals and will see if this solves the issue - it seems the aftermarket rubber is too stiff
@@BritannicaRestorations Lets hope that works then eh Mike ? My 110 is an 83 Y reg (?) and needs new doors all round . So I'm following anything to do with Defender doors like a hawk , It would be nice to have a truck that kept the outside mostly outside for a change . LOL
Fattrucker
I will post a video tomorrow - the cheap seals are too hard- I will ge my Puma seals Monday and compare with an aftermarket one
The dimensions are right - the material is total crap on the aftermarket ones - no matter who makes them
Hi mike, Having the same issues as you at the moment mate, replaced just the lower seals and when you go to open the door it pops out like its under spring pressure. Very interested to see what you find.
I have some genuine ones coming from the UK - I will keep you all posted
You should have been a surgeon Mike
Lol!
Mike
Christ Mike you really have to slam that door to shut it, mine were like that after I'd had the seals replaced years ago, sometimes it took two or three attempts to shut it.
They are too hard - I will post a video tomorrow using scientific test measurements!
sounds sexy.
Have you a part number for that seal on the floor for the doorbottom Mike? The one you have on the floor panel itself not the door. Also if all else fails when I hang new doors on the 110 and the bulkhead has to be adjusted, is that doable on a defender that's not fully stripped apart? As in a fully built normal working defender
Bottom seal is MWC6130
There are some adjustment you can make but it is best to remove the floor plates as these get in the way of moving the bulkhead
@@BritannicaRestorations just the floor plates?? Don't need to do any other disassembly or anything else? Would be delighted if it's that straight forward (HAH!)
You will have to loosen the wing fixings to the chassis but they are on slots
@@BritannicaRestorations nothing impossible there.. Cheers for the tips Mike I'll make the noises you make when I have the doors fitting proper
Any recommendations for oem or not oem seals?
Keep watching as I have ordered some genuine seals and will do a comparison
Too be fair, aftermarket door seals just ain’t worth a toss 👍👍👍
they are too hard - video coming up!
Must be terrible if your rubber is too stiff lol 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Better than all perished!
Hey Mike, below a video response/comment. It shows how the Td5 seals may have been improved
ruclips.net/video/hV_9eYHEGGo/видео.html
Jeremy
It looks like you have the original seals on your truck
I have the ones with the holes but I think the aftermarket seals are too stiff - I have some Puma seals coming in my next order so I will see what the difference is ( I know they were 12 x more expensive!)