Balustrade Layout: Establish rake; newel/railing height and locations
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
- Layout on a balustrade is THE most important step. Learn how to establish the rake of the stairs, determine the height and location of the newel posts and railings.
Resources:
FatBoy pencil and Burn One tape measure: www.fastcap.com
Festool drills: festoolcanada.com, woodenedge.ca
Dewalt mitre saw and drill: dewalt.ca, itoolhouse.com
Finishing Touch Carpentry supports Adult and Teen Challenge, a Christian-based addiction recovery program. www.teenchallenge.tc
Key Moments:
00:00 Introduction
02:40 Determine height of newel post
04:10 Mark second post
05:45 Understanding post length variations
06:40 Post placement in relation to rake
07:57 Preparing for install
08:20 Mark railing locations
09:20 Installing the posts
11:35 Conclusion
Liability waiver: Finishing Touch Carpentry and Scott Earl Smith assume no responsibility for the safe usage of tools, and general safety practices. This is not a safety video and all users should research their own safety techniques prior to attempting any of the techniques shown in this video. 
Хобби
I just finished my first stair railing project, and it went quite well. I watched all your videos on the topic and they helped immensely. Thank you again for making these!
You're welcome. This is exactly what I was hoping for. Passing on my experience to help others. Someone said to me the other day, "If you give away all your trade secrets, no one is going to call you for work." I said, "That's exactly what I'm hoping for... I'm 63!"
Thank you for the encouraging comment.
Great video. Ive been on my own doing finish work for about 3 years, and I’m still struggling my way through every railing job. I haven’t found my consistent groove because it seams like every railing is different. Stair cases are always framed differently and the posts and balusters are always different box newels and solid newels etc. I loved the concept of turning the newels upside down and marking the rake line. Im going to burn that into my brain as a law for newel post length. Thanks for educating us young carpenters.
This is exactly why I do this! I'm glad it helped and I wish you all the best in your journey "making sawdust." I remember all the mistakes I made on my first railing and those get etched into your brain too. Cheers and thanks for the comment. Scott
Excellent video. The rake is so confusing to calculate but you explain it in a really easy to understand way. I like how you showed multiple examples of how the length of the newel changes depending on its placement. Very helpful.
Glad it helped. Thank you Timothy!
Thank you sir. You just solved one of my biggest dilemma about the newel post hight. Very nice explanation 👌
I'm really glad the video helped. Very encouraging comment. Thank you Scott
This is fantastic! Thank you for explaining the steps so clearly.
You're welcome Jennifer. Thank you so much. This is so encouraging. Scott
I really appreciate your videos. I am a finish carpenter here in Washington state and I have only had the pleasure of doing a handful of balustrade builds. I have so many questions for you regarding balustrades in general but I’m sure you don’t have time for that.. thank you for your videos I really appreciate the info! God bless
Thank you Joshua. I'm glad you're benefiting from the videos. If you have time to send your questions; I have time to answer them! God bless you and your work as well, Scott
Glad you got your channel back
Thank you. Not sure what was going on. Changed my passwords and it seemed to do the trick.
Thank you kindly for sharing your expertise and knowledge! 🙏🏼
You're welcome Jaime! Thank you for the encouraging comment. Scott
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Thank you for the encouragement! Scott
as always Scott amazing video amazing craftsmanship!
Thank you for the encouragement Paul!
Thank you Scott for the video I am teaching myself this slowly just watching over and over. I have choose your channel to do that. Really there is no other that goes into the rake extensively as yours does. Like the fence post level ? Such a simple tool yet I hv never seen it used? Trust me I put in a lot of fence! You take brother! Ok I better get back to work even on Sat ! Building cabinets while it rains here!
You're welcome Jim! The post level is a good trick. The one in the video is a replacement for the my old one that "disappeared into the vortex" somewhere.
I learned the hard way. My first balustrade was a job for my brother-in-law in his brand new house. Every baluster (probably 25) was a different length because I had no concept of rake and installed the top railing by measuring up from the bottom of each post.
Glad the videos are helpful. Appreciate you dropping encouraging comments brother.
@@scottearlsmithFTC ohhhh you hv that same Vortex? Uh-hu!
@@zephyr1408 Hahaha.
Scott I’m redoing our stair system in our 1960’s split entry home. When ordering newel posts I see options of 31/2” and 4”.
I’m following your videos to build the new system.
Kevin Parks
Butte, MT
What do you recommend and why. Thank you!
@@kevinparks8715 Thanks for dropping a line Kevin. Basically I use 3.5" most of the time as this size is readily available at the suppliers where I live. Occasionally I will do a system with box newels that are larger than 3.5". Either 3.5 or 4 will have lots of strength. You may need a longer post for the bottom of the stair case. I usually buy 5-footers for that application.
Nothing screams 1970's like burnt orange carpeting.
Hahaha! You nailed it! Cheers, Scott
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Yvon. You're welcome. Have a good weekend.
Thank you!
You're welcome Kim. Thanks for commenting, Scott
Thanks for sharing, Scott! So when you marked for the top railing you were marking the top of the top railing. Then when you were marking for the bottom railing you were marking the bottom of the bottom railing, correct? You said you were bumping the bottom railing up about an inch or so, and I imagine your stick was about an inch wide, which would make your mark the bottom of the bottom railing? I’m about to start a horizontal baluster layout and I might need to bump the bottom baluster up an inch to make the somewhat uneven nosing reveals less noticeable (1/4” variation is less noticeable when a bottom railing or baluster isn’t sitting really right to the nosings I would think).
Thanks for reaching out Kyle. Yes the bottom of the bottom railing was marked about 1.5" up from the nosing or rake line. This gives a bit of room for the vacuum and cleaning etc. There is no problem raising your bottom rail on your balcony as well. (Check your local building code to make sure this is okay.) I just built a balcony railing with a 2.5" space between the bottom rail and the floor to give room for the customers vacuum cleaner head. (It's a laminate floor). Hope this helps.
Thank you very much
Thank you Tom!
Hi Scott, thanks for posting these video series because they've been really helpful for me as a DIYer! After you transfer the rake angle to the upside down newel post, are you making a perpendicular marking at where the rake marking meets the edge of the post? I noticed that when you get to the "burn one" measuring for the baluster and reveal, the marking appears to be a straight 90 line and not at the rake angle. Thank you much!
Thank you for your question. The rake line is on the angle of the stairs on the side of the post/baluster but perpendicular on the leading edge or front side. If you envision a laser line it will make sense. Hope this helps, Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC Got it, thanks again!
@@user-yt3bm8mk2c You're welcome!
Hey Scott. Question on the point where you are screwing in your screws to the bottom newel. You seem to be achieving plumb by adjusting those screws after the initial tightening. Can you explain that a bit? Do you undertighten initially and then work the last few turns slowly until plumb or whats the best strategy there? is it important to use PU adhesive that expands slightly to compensate if you 'loosen slightly' one of the screws to achieve a plumb post?
Hi Stephen, First I make sure I cut the notch in my newel so that it stands plumb when fitted against the riser/stringer. I currently use Bostik flooring adhesive but I'm sure PL Premium will work fine as well. I tighten my lag screws in a progressive manner and can tweak the plumb by tightening one lag more than the other. You'll be surprised how much the newel will move with a small micro adjustment on the lag screws. Once the newel is set where I want it, I leave it alone. I don't wiggle back and forth and I tell the customers the same. The glue sets overnight. Flooring adhesive will move slightly with seasonal movement so that's why I use that product. Hope that helps. Scott
It very much does thanks
Do the spindles have to be attached to the stair stringer or can they be attached to the just the stair tread ?
No they can go into the tread. Thanks for your question Daniel. Scott
Great video. Can you tell me what size lag bolts you are using?
Thank you for then compliment. I am using 5/16x5" construction screws from U2 Fasteners. Cheers, Scott
So clear Scott, thanks so much for this video. But I'm confused at around 7:10 at the top landing. With a newel post positioned further from the top of the stairs, I understand this will work if your handrail stops at the top of a single flight as it does in your video, but wouldn't following the rake to a higher spot - when there are no more stairs - make the top of the handrail too high? Particularly if the handrail then turned 90 degrees to continue along a landing balcony? In this case would the only solution be to have two newel posts - one at the very top of the stairs and one further along before turning the corner - an so keep the handrail height the same from the rake line going up stairs and from the floor going along a landing..?
Yes. I’m only referring to a newel post that is situated a few inches away from the top riser. You are exactly right about having a second newel post if there was a landing at the top. I have a video in the works that shows that. Thanks for your comment and question. Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTCThanks so much for the reply I will definitely look out for that video!
@@andrewfox7331 Thank you Andrew. Have a good week. Scott
I’m planning on using a post that has a sphere at the top. What’s the best way to rotate the post upside down as you’ve shown in the video? 😅
You might have to improvise and just use a story pole.
Thank you boss!
@@PleakTCG Anytime. Thanks for reaching out.
What if I want to add a middle newel post.
Where would I add the review? In the top or bottom?
You would add a middle post using the same methodology. I'm sorry but I don't have a video on a middle post. Thanks for reaching out, Scott
OCD noted and respected.. I get a lot of shit for it myself, but I gotta live with myself at the end of the day.. Shotty work isn't in the cards 👍
Yup. “Good enough” doesn’t fly with me either. Had to chuckle when I read this. Made my day. Thx for commenting. Scott
How could you secure/affix a newel post to a floor landing that you cannot locate a joist? Two layers of plywood only? Is there a way?
Look at my video on the Fas-N-Fast newel post fitting. That may be the best option. Or, you could cut a square access hole in the plywood floor where the post will go and install blocking. I don't have a video on that process - yet. Thank you for reaching out. Good luck, Scott
ruclips.net/video/gfbK_1Wd0DY/видео.html
@@scottearlsmithFTC Great!!! Thank you for replying to me. Great videos, especially for weekend warriors who are clueless. lol Thank you
@@searchingforaway8494 Thank you so much. I hope the advice helps, Scott