How to renew a motorised valve motor or head. No draining down.
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- Опубликовано: 20 окт 2015
- Motorised valve broken on your heating system? Here is how to just renew the valve motor that sits on top, or for an even cheaper job the small synchronous motor that sits inside.
For a video on renewing the whole valve with the body, take this link to watch the video • How to fit a three way...
To buy a new head or motor through my Amazon link. www.dereton33.com/page184.html
Visit Al`s Amazon plumbing shop .www.amazon.co.uk/shop/dereton33
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Thanks for doing this. Saved me a lot of money. The plumber quoted me to drain the whole system to install one of these, but he would've just done this 10 minute job and charged me for 2 hours, plus he stated the part was $200 and I was able to find it for 1/2 that price.
No problem, pleased you sorted it ok.
Many thanks for your videos. Over the past couple of years you've saved me hundreds of pounds.
No problem. Pleased you have managed to save some money on expensive plumbers fees.
Another fantastic video, giving me the confidence to replace my header and saving me a fortune. Thanks a million and keep the faith!
You bet!
I can't thank you enough. We lost the central heating last night, just as the snow started falling! The first thing I did was google the problem which lead me straight to you. I should have known as I've used your videos before for when I changed my sink taps, but it was great to see a face I knew and could trust. You explained exactly what I needed to know and this morning I popped to my local plumbing supplies and picked up a new Synchronous Motor for £13. Took 10 mins to fit and now we're toasty warm again - all thanks to you. Great videos and saved us a fortune!
No problem, keep warm.
Practical, clearly explained, to the point, no time wasting. I like it! 😊
Glad you liked it!!
Another great clip from the main man .
Good man Al and all the best
Thanks, finallevel29, your kind comments are much appreciated. Al.
Well chaps, I've just fixed mine, no problem , give it a go ....... ( I'm a 72 year old Granny !! )
Well done Sandra.
Thank you so much for taking up your valuable time for this video it really helped me. I'm usually rubbish at DIY and I be managed to fit it. It took me some time as I didn't wanted to get wrong especially the wiring of course but did it. Thanks.
+Harun Al-rashid No problem pleased you did it ok.
Thank you very much. You helped me diagnose the problem, order the part, and successfully get our hot water going again. Probably saved at least £100!
No problem Anna Y.
Brilliant! Just what I was looking for. I wanted to see how it worked and how it came apart so I know what I will have to tackle when swapping mine.
No problem JNF
Excellent work you saved my life got my heating working
No problem Bilal.
Thanks for your video on this was able to sort out my 3 port valve had a sticking ball valve all working now regards Fred 👍
No problem Fred.
Thanks mate, very clear and informative
No problem Mark.
My water /central heating system has not been working correctly for a number of years and despite attention from pros has continued to give trouble.Watched this video,trip to Screwfix and sorted in a couple of hours.Everything now working perfectly.Many thanks from a couple of septuagenarians,warm and comfy septuagenarians.
No problem.
So the “pros” couldn’t even figure out a simple problem such as this?
What was the issue?
Many thanks for replying, as soon as I can get hold of one I will be more confident to fit it. Top bloke.5*
No problem 👍
Legend. You've saved me £280 a week before Christmas. 👍👍
No problem 👍
I've sent a donation via Paypal. Keep up the good work! Thanks again.
Thanks Nigel much appreciated.
This helped a lot, I was struggling to get the new head lined up with the valve stem. If you press the head to open, it seems to make it easier.
Thanks tom.
Thanks for posting. I have saved this a while ago as I knew the motor was dodge. And as expected it failed just when I needed it most IE it's snowing outside. I have replaced the top of the motor and all is working fine now. Easy fix thanks
You're welcome!
Great stuff... Through the years, you've saved this joiner a fortune 🤗
Glad I could help!
Thank you for this excellent video.
Thanks for your help, much appreciated
You're welcome!
Good work thanks for info just one question do I need to drain cylinder it’s not pressurised to replace complete 3 port valve or do I just drain heating side thanks in advance
Just the heating side Peter.
Hi, great vid, thanks. When the valve is set to auto do you know if the switch should visibly move when the system calls for hot water or heating. The switch on mine just stays in the one position (auto).
Yes it should.
Great video and gives me confidence to do this on my own if I diagnose it correctly first :-)
My heating is coming on with my hot water, I currently have a Honeywell 9013 three port valve, do you believe changing this would alleviate my issue? and do I need to get a Honeywell to replace it or can I use other brands like Corgi?
Any advice would be grateful !
+regbloke Repace the valve but make sure that it is the same make.
Thanks for the video. I have exactly this valve. My hot water will come on every time, but the central heating wont fire the bolier. If I move to manual I can get heat in the rads but the bolier wont fire for the central heating and goes off if the water is off. Could this solve the problem or is it more likely a problem at the bolier end.
The pump starts up if I move it to manual but bolier still doesnt fire.
Yes it will
Hi, very helpful video thank you. Before I start replacing the valve head I just want to check, the lever won't push to the manual position, is this a problem? I've pushed hard and it really, really won't budge? (The problem I'm trying to fix is that we're getting hot water but no radiator heat, pump overheats and cuts out).
Yes the head motor is gone.
Thank you
thank you very helpful.
No problem.
thank you so much for video which explains how to valve works and replacing. I have one question If you don't mind answering? Could i replaced my ESi 2 Port 22mm Zone Valve ESZV222L version with a honey metal box version? I heard they are more reliable. Im not a plumber but these things seems to go every 1-2 years i think the esi version is cheap. Only reason i like the esi version you have the plug and play cable so i end up keeping the old cable no electric wiring required.
Not sure they are compatable.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Hi Al great video I've just fitted mine, is there supposed to be any resistance when moving the switch from auto to manual & visa versa? Many thanks
Yes, absolutely
@@dereton33 Thanks so much for replying Al! I only replaced the honeywell valve itself & there is no resistance on the switch! Does that mean I need to replace the valve body too? Thanks mate
morning have been advised my Danfoss value need relacing hot water switches on and heating to plus its hot although I havet used it since april is it easy to do,
Yes just copy the wires the same as in the control box.
Thankyou for getting back to me.
Great videos - thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi , great video! How do I know whether I need 22mm or 28mm version? which bit do I measure? Thanks!
It will be 22 mm. If you are not sure just measure the inside diameter.
Thank you, very helpful, just a quick question, the motor head was replaced about two years ago by a plumber, he used a Banico ZVM22 replacement, can I buy a better quality one like a 'Honeywell' without having to change the port itself please ? my present one has started to make a 'humming sound' from time to time, a good thump and it goes quiet ! is that a sign it's on it's way out ? thank you in anticipation.
The Honeywell one is best but a lot more expensive.
Just stumbled across this video. My hot water would fire up but my central heating light on the boiler wouldnt fire up. So i moved the actuator clip to manual and it worked and the boiler fires up, does this mean i need to replace the actuator or just the actual actuator motor?
Or how do I know if it's the switches that's connected to the wall box
Best to renew the actuator (the complete valve head) The switches on the wall very rarely go wrong.
Great video but doesn't quite give me what I need atm. My mums old heating system has a 3 wire valve which has failed. The replacement is 5 wire. Is it possible to get this to work as if it were a 3 wire unit by tying the additional wires to the original 3 wires?
No you would have to get the same model as your mums and replace with that. Not this Honeywell one.
Hey Dereton,
Can i replace this head unit only and wire it in legally ? With out voiding my house insurance ?
There is lots of articles saying what can and cant be done with electrics by the home owner around.
Many Thanks
So far as I know as long as you are competent.
Thank you, Wish to see more video,
More to come!
Thanks for your video. I have one of these. Heating comes on with the water. My lever doesn't stay in manual position and just springs back. Does that mean it has a fault? I was thinking of changing the head but don't want it to leak everwhere.
No it just means you have not seated it properly into the slot . When the lever is pulled across lift it up into the cutout slot.
@@dereton33 Thanks for your quick reply. It does seat in the slot ok, but as soon as I let go it springs back down. I tried many times. As I have no hot water, I was thinking of changing the motor first. I just wondered if the lever springing back was indicative of a fault with it.
A quick update. I took off the casing and noticed the motor was stuck and the spring mech wasn’t working, the reason why it wouldn’t stay in manual mode. I ordered a motor, fitted it and it springs back and manual works. The old motor was very stiff to move, so would go to central heating, but wouldn’t spring back for hot water, Although, with the new motor it works on auto now. Hot water again! Hopefully, this will help someone. Thanks again for your video, it made me brave enough to have a go. :)
Hi, I have to put mine into manual mode to get my heating to work (turn hot water on to do so). Do I just need to replace the head as you do in this video or the whole lot?
Usually just the head Yes.
Hi, Planning to do this at the wknd. Does the valve need to be in a certain position before fitting the head motor? (3 way valve) V4073A 1039
No just leave it off manual.
I took the head off mine and found the valve body seized, applied wd40 and worked it free, but i suspect they will seize again, so will probably have to change the valve at some point. I see they can be bought as a separate part for around £20, but that depends on it being a match for the drayton head that mine has, as i see your Honeywell one has a different back and spigot?
Best to buy the complete valve, head and body.
👍🏽 🇬🇧 January 2024!!
Fantastic walk-through sir!
Right now, I'm not sure if it's me just being paranoid - but the hot water activation might also be causing the radiators to heat up too.
The motorised valve will cause this when in manual mode.
Hi great video just a question does the lever need to be in the manual position when fitting the new head ?
Yes it does
I have an issue with my hot water and would just like an opinion whether you think that it is the 3 way valve.
I have heating and the bolier fires up when i turn the theromstat up, when the water is timed to come on the light on the controller comes on but the boiler doesnt fire up.
The hot water seems hotter than normal.I have checked the tank in the loft and that is full
Any ideas please
ade
The water will not come on if the water in the tank is already hotter than normal. Try turning down your cylinder thermostat to 55 c. This is not a motorised valve problem.
+dereton33.Thanks for the response. Love your videos,very informative and helpful,thanks
No problem.
my heating wont turn off once temp has reached so assuming the zone valve is most likely sticking ?....would just replacing the head only be worth a shot is is that spindle most likely stuck inside the 3 way block?. thanks
Way to find out, is to remove the head before replacing and see if you can turn it manually.
Hi good video when I change the whole zone valve with a new zone valve will the wiring be same thanks
As long as it is the same model.
I'm about to replace a 2-port Honeywell head as the the current one is clearly broken (the manual-auto lever doesn't work, the unit keeps buzzing and sticking and isn't activating the microswitch all the time). It does still close the valve so my question is - does the head only go on the spindle one way as when I take the old one off the valve will be closed as i can't open it manually so I'm best keeping the new head in the closed position?
It only goes on one way, keep the valve in the closed position on fitting.
Thanks!
I've ordered a new head (with valve too just in case). The valve is now jammed shut but worked this morning - is this likely to be the gear mechanism as the manual level is also jammed and I can't open the valve. New part not coming til Tuesday so at this point presumably I have nothing to lose by unbolting the head and having a look...
Hi. Thanks for your videos. I have a 3 port valve. The heating isn't working. I can move the lever to manual (with resistance) and the boiler fires up, but then after 30 seconds or so, everything stops and the lever remains in manual. The pipes beneath the head are warm and the closest rads to the boiler start to come on. But it's not staying on. Is this a motor issue or do I need to replace the valve head?
Replace the valve head.
@@dereton33 thank you 😊
Are all the plates the same. If the brand installed is different to the replacement will the new one still fit onto the same plate.
No make sure you stick with the same brand, in this instance a honewell.
The head motor seems reluctant to come off after loosening the 2 screws. It wriggles a bit form side to side but seems stuck somehow. Is is safe to lever it off? Should it be tight? There's a comment suggesting doing this on older valves will result in a watery mess... the head is spaced from the valve body by spacers -so is it safe to remove? Any hints? It's a Honeywell with the same number as the video one
If it is one of the old models it will start to leak water as soon as you start to move it. The new ones just pull off easy.
Thanks, the motor doesn't seem to want to come off, it looks as though the spindle is stuck in the motor... can this happen? I've tried levering it with a screwdriver but the shaft isn't shifting and I don't want to break anything (or flood anything!)
Hi Al, I’ve just bought a replacement 3 port valve head 4703 to replace my Tower head, the instructions state that if you have an ‘old’ type of head you need the adaptor plate, I’ve ordered one and its on its way, my question is the new adaptor plate has the ball valve so do I need to drain down to fit the new head and adaptor plate? Should mention I tried the new head on the old spigot an it doesn’t seat down fully, so that’s why I’ve ordered adaptor plate.
Yes you will have to drain down.
@@dereton33 OK thanks for replying so quickly 👍
hi. is there any easy way to know the valve spindle is stuck??? nice vedio . so much helpfull
See if it will turn ok with a spanner. You will have to take the head off first.
Really clear video and instructions. I need a replacement for a honeywell synchronous motor 40002737 003. I've used your link to Amazon but I don't know which valve is compatible with the one I need to replace. Can you help please?
If you are not sure go directly to Honewell and order from there.
I wonder if you can help me? I replaced the whole 3 port valve a couple of months ago with a brand new one from the plumbers' merchants round the corner. After a couple of weeks it started banging whenever the heating comes on. It seems to bang loudly 3 times, once per second, then more quietly 3 times, once per second. If I don't tap the outside of the valve casing quite hard with my hand it will continue indefinitely. I told the merchants about it and they said it's either air or sludge in the system.
I had to drain down the system to fit the new 3 port valve, so I don't think there should be any sludge in it, yet the valve continues to bang loudly most, though not every, time the heating comes on. Any advice on how to remove air (if there is any)?
Many thanks,
Bob
It is more likely to be air Bob, try slacking off the flow outlets on the valve, to see if there is any air trapped there. Try also slacking off the cylinder flow and return nuts, to see if there is any air there. Also check the pump for air.
Excellent, thanks!
You're welcome!
Brilliant video.👍👍
Question before I replace just the motor. The hot water works but the heating doesn't, would that just be the motor or the whole pump?
🤔
Oh and the heating works only if the hot water is heating up!
That is the motorised valve faulty
Oh bum! So not just the head needs replacing but the whole valve?
I'll need a plumber for that,not going to risk draining my system myself.👍
Great video, but my unit is making a humming sound, which I can hear from downstairs, I suppose the sound is transmitted via the pipes, but also when the CH first comes on, say first thing in the morning for example, their is a terrific creaking sound, which lasts for about 3 seconds, I am assuming it is the same problem ? do you think I need to replace the whole valve unit, or just the box on top ? Thank you.
Try turning your pump speed down a notch first. If no luck then, I would replace the whole valve.
@@dereton33 Thank you for your reply, interestingly this afternoon, I ran the hot water for a bath and the humming stopped as soon as I turned the tap on ! and now two hours later all is quiet, maybe it's a dirty contact or something in the box ?
May also be high pressure to the combi you could try turning the flow rate down on the main stopcock.
@@dereton33 Thanks, but I don't have a combi, have a standard hot water tank, but it is still quiet nearly four hours on, but I had this problem about 12 days ago, but then after a couple of days, I noticed it went quiet, that is up until today !! so it is intermittent, so maybe the answer is to run a bath when the humming sound comes back ? lol, doesn't account for the strange sound when the CH turns on from cold though !
No that it dosent.
I have had a new 3-port valve fitted by a plumber, but the new valve makes a loud groaning sound when it switches between CH and HW, sometimes it will make a banging sound, but not every time, because it was changed via my insurance company, under the emergency assist policy, they won't entertain the plumber coming out again, as long as it works that's fine by them ! what can I add to the header tank that will lubricate the valve ?
Try some system cleaner followed by fresh inhibitor.
I've got a flowmasta 3 port valve that's only a bout 9 months old. The heating has stopped working/the hot water works but if I lock it into manual the heating will come on with the hot water. When it's locked in place the valve ticks, should I just replace the whole thing or the motor? Or could it be something else? Thanks for the vid
I would renew the whole thing as you have already replaced just the motor.
dereton33 it was the whole valve that was replaced not the motor. Should I be looking for a different brand rather than flowmasta?
In that case yes. Honeywell are best.
Thanks for the help
Good morning, my valve head has stopped working so will be replacing it. Quick question, on that valve pin I was told to put some silicone grease onto it. Would you recommend that??
Yes a good idea Ash.
Excellent, thanks
Does it matter what type? Or just any? Apologies for all the questions..
got a slight problem when my central heating comes on my underfloor heating pump also comes on even when the thermostat is off could this be a faulty motorised valve regards
Yes more than likely.
Thanks Al, do I have to move the lever across to manual before removing the head as shown in your video? I ask this as my lever won’t lock over at all so I can’t do that, think the springs may have failed too.
Thanks !
No don't worry about it.
On top of unit says Honeywell ( same as my controls) On taking the silver cover off the unit I look inside to see which one I needed. All I can see online are V4043h and 4073a so do not know which one to purchase. On the top of the motor is SYNCHRON 1929 Made in USA
It is normally the V4043h
My lever at the side is just loose and no resistance is it safe to remove or will there be a water pressure leak. Thank you.
You can remove the head without draining. There are just a couple of real old models where you have to drain the system. Rare these days.
we changed the top part and the central heating still does not work the hot water is perfect but the heating is still not budging could it be that the valve is stuck
Either the body is stuck or the pump is worn.
dereton33 my house have 4 heating zone. 3 of them are good. One have the same problem ( hot water can not go though the valve). I check the motor is good. And I switched to manual but hot water can not go through. Do you have any way can check the valve if it is stuck
My hot water and heating just stopped - wife had towels jammed over valves and I think they are burnt out - should i replace both and will this solve?
Thankjs
Check stats and boiler first.
Hello I’ve got problem where the radiators are hot but there is no hot water , however I have tow of these valves , on one the manual level when I pull it out it just spring back to its normal position , the other valve the lever slides backwards on forwards but does not spring back does this suggest a problem with the valve as the pipes up to it are hot but it does not appear to open up to let any hot water through even when I turn on the central heating and try to put this valve in manual mode still nothing happens to the hot water , any help would be appreciated thank you
Yes a faulty valve. It will need renewing.
Hi, I just want to change the synchorous motor, I don't know how to remove the wire from the block though... Could you shed some light please? Thanks so much!
Never just renewed the motor, best to renew the whole head unit. Not much more money.
I am about to change the valve head. As I undid the fixing screws holding the head to the valve, water started to escape. Does this mean that I need to change the whole thing?
Yes that is not one that you can just change the head.
dereton33 Thanks very much for the reply.
Mine looks identical but is held on by 4 screws and it appears that taking those 4 screws out will open up the valve itself and cause a flood. Any thoughts on this?
Those ones are the type that cannot be done without draining down. You may as well renew the complete valve once that is done.
Should the valve lever move freely when operated manually? I'm getting no heating, but the hot water is working. I suspect my 3-way valve is faulty and need to override it manually while I get a replacement, but the lever won't budge. I don't want to force it.
It is always hard to pull open as you are pulling against a spring.
I’ve bought a new power head the wiring has an additional wire which is brown beige colour the old wiring didn’t have that or space for it what do I do
leave it disconected, but taped over.
Hi. Could you expand a bit on the 'watery mess' comment. I think I have an 'old' valve. As I loosen the screws (which are on the same not opposite sides) water begins to leak. Should I stop? What happens if I keep going? Do I need to drain down the system? Thanks.
DO STOP. You have one of the very old rare type that you have to drain the system to remove the head gear. You may as well buy a complete valve as you have to drain.
@@dereton33 Got it! Thanks. You saved me a soaking cellar. Will drain down and replace the whole valve.
Hi, are the motorised valves still available through your links?
Yes
Good video but did you mention if you are going for the ‘cheap’ option it is worth testing that three ported valve is free to move if it is not easy to turn then it is a false economy to go cheap. Also I believe that power is on these motors all the time and they will normally be warm to the touch.
Thanks Norman.
How easy should it be to turn? By hand, or say with long-nose pliers (i.e. still not masses of torque applied)?
@@ArifGhostwriter It should be very easy and if you have to exert significant force with a very short spanner or pliers it would suggest it requires changing. Having said that, if you are handy, you could remove it from the system, strip it down and clean it up. But in terms of effectiveness it is quicker to swap it out.
Norman sir! Many thanks - & Happy New Year (given your original post is from 5 years ago!).
Will this motor be compatible with my eph control valve
No you will have to get the correct model for that one.
Hi can I replace a Siemens valve motor with a Honeywell using this method?
No they are not interchangeable.
@@dereton33 Great thanks
I have a new 2 port valve head to replace the old valve head but when I tried to take off the head, it has 4 screws not 2 and when I tried loosening the head water started squirting out??
Do I need to drain the system? Or does the water just squirt out for a short time?
You will need to drain yours out.
I have drained the system, I opened the hot water and drained all the hot water out and then I shut off the mains cold water inlet and connected a hose to a drain valve which was located near the boiler dowstairs.
I opened the pressure valve on the cylinder and waited for it to more or less empty and I then replaced the motorized head.
I didnt open the bleed valves on any of the radiators as i thought i just needed to drain the cyclinder above the motorized valve.
I then refilled the system keeping all the taps open in the house and once they seemed to stop spitting air out i turned them off.
Now i seem to have all the rads working upstairs but only some of the downstairs rads seem to be getting hot... also I dont have any hot water yet. This is about 30mins after turning on the hot water and heating on again.
Is there some major flaws in my workings here? help!!
Thanks
[EDIT]..... The hot water seems to be getting hot now. Still a few remaining rads to come on downstairs.
chris mitchell you did not need to drain the hot water system ( the system that sends water to your sinks and bath).
Norman Boyes
I have got everything running again, all the rads are working, the only difference since I did it is both the hot and cold water don’t seem to have the same pressure as before e.g the bath takes longer to fill. I have the pressure bar set to 1 bar, is there anything else I need to do or does all sound well? Cheers
I will give that a go, thanks for the input Norman
Actual spinal on the valve how far should that move?
Half a turn.
Was unscrewing the head and then water started pouring out! Had to tighten back up quickly. Any ideas? :(
You have one of the old type where the head cant be changed without draining down first.
So I have our radiators coming warm when the hot water is on. Would replacing this be enough?
it's a 2 port valve only
Yes it is letting by.
Great man
Thanks.
What if mine is stuck, the lever moves easy with no resistance from auto to manual?
If it is moving easy it is not jammed.
How do I turn off the power/electrics to the motor?
The main switch to the boiler.
If the lever is loose, what does the mean?
It is switched on.
Really helpful thanks ! Chillyboombom
No problem sue.
Are these still used?
Yes sure are.
Hi, your videos have been fantastic. So far I've repaired a leak under my sink and have bled all my central heating system. However, I seem to have a problem which is driving me mad. I have an upstairs rad in my bedroom which makes a loud gurgling noise. I've bled it from everywhere with the pump running, and it still makes a racket. Ive bled both top connectors, the bottom two and wound the stop taps fully off and on again. I have a standard combo boiler and everything else is working fine. The next stage I was going to do was remove the rad and wash it out but I wondered if you knew any tips? Many thanks and please keep up your great work.
You could try cutting the flow down by turning the lock shield valve all the way off and then on just a half turn. Failing that I do have a video on flushing out radiators. ruclips.net/video/_FlxN0c-qBQ/видео.html
Good luck with it
+dereton33 Thanks. I've watched your video and will give it a go. It's going to take a long time because there are only 3 rads on, my daughter hates being warm. Plus my boiler is a combo so as you know, I will be up and downstairs topping the system up from the mains.
Ok good luck with it.
Did you check the spindle
Of course
why fit a new head without even testing the movement of the Brass valve male part. A fraction of oil and some pliers will soon tell you if that part is working .They are not Designed to turn fully !! only a bit
my heating is not working on all radiators, some are working. my plumber says I need a new motorised valve. surely if the valve is broken all my rads would be cold.? help
No, sometimes the valve is only turning part way around or is blocked with sludge.
Thank you. Just didn't want to pay loads of money if it will not solve the problem.
In my experience, while you've got the head off, give the valve spindle a squirt of WD40. They get a bit crusty and can seize!
Great advice Colin.
Hi mate, the link doesn't work for me.
Amazon have changed the link address. Try my store instead.
Why do you have to put it in manual
To keep the valve open
@@dereton33 yeah but why does it need to be open plz
In 1999 I replaced the motor on my old three port valve but in 2008 (and at a different house), the local supplier said they no longer supplied the motor on its own for safety reasons, I had to buy a whole new unit (way of ripping your customers off)
That`s life today Mark. Al.
Plenty of valve heads and syncron motors to buy, just look on ebay and other online retailers.
I got the new valve head off ebay for a fraction of the price at the local plumbing merchants. I replaced my boiler with a combi so not an issue now.
The older version didn't have that little raised pimple on the top, and had 4 fixing screws.
Thanks for the info.
Watch out for the old version of these valves. If you try to remove the head on these you'll have a big watery mess to clear up. If there no gap under the motor and the body of the valve its probably an old valve.
+Somerset Camper Yes I should have mentioned that, thanks.
Do you have to get a plumber in to drain the system in this case?
@@ajay26 I used the motor from the newer style head I'd bought and used it to replace the faulty one in the old head.
Thanks @twerki78 unfortunately I think the springs in the switch are also gone as I can’t get the manual override to work either
Only thing I would add is to tell people to turn off the electricity supply to the unit 1st😬
Yes thanks.