Great advice. Just changed over to my 1st brushless system. Terrible motor stuttering... was about to return it as faulty. Re soldered bullet connectors and also battery connector, freed up wheels and now it's way improved! Does need a shove to get it going now and again but much better... Cheers, great advice!
Dropping pinion tooth on motor, gearing down, will help enormously. Yes, you will lose some top end, but gain much on low end. Many non-sensored brushless systems such as arrma big rock, come with a 15 tooth pinion. Yet it tops out at 50mph. If you don't need 50, you can reduce pinion tooth and gain low end, while also running a cooler motor/esc.
Thanks for great video. I had extreme cogging issue with my wltoys 124017 and I have watched many videos and no one mentioned the binding check, I did rotate the front wheel and noticed the issue with binding immediately and I could fix that easy.
Suuubscriiiibed! You do a great job 'splainin stuff. Thank you. Just 5 videos in, I am learning a lot of useful tips for my 3 hobbies that all use brushless motors. The motor timing vid was perfectly clear.
This video is great. I now understand what the problem is with my GoolRC motor ESC combo from Amazon. I put a cheap 60A ESC on an old T-Maxx that weighs a ton
Hi there, great vid. Can you tell us if running a car with this hesitation damages anything? It's happening on my brushless Zorro and I will try what you have said. But if it doesn't fix it am I doing any damage by using the car?
Hello I have a xstr 1/10 buggy (normal brushed motor) I have brought a new brushless combo which is 4370kv with a 60a esc both waterproof and can also take 2s or 3s Lipo. It keeps cogging every time I try let it off on ground, it starts to clog for a few seconds and THEN picks up speed. If you could please as to how I can solve this, also I’m using a 3s 11.1v 3s 2200mah overlander battery, am I using the wrong battery? I have also purchased a esc programmer for this combo just waiting on it. If you could help would be much appreciated thank you
I have a GTB novak brushless sensored system in a Losi xxx-sct. I am having a weird issue. My Platinum Orion 2S 4800mah (I believe its a 25C pack but it does not say) pack works perfectly fine with the setup but my Zeee 2S 6200mah 60C battery has really bad stuttering when I take off at full throttle. I have two Zeee packs and they both do it. It does not happen when I ease into the throttle though. Any idea what could be causing this problem? I thought I might have gotten some bad battery packs a while ago or maybe the Novak GTB esc just does not like the higher C rating batteries? I was going to order some different brand packs with the higher C rating like the Zeee packs I have and see if the issue continues. If you have any ideas why this could be happening I am all ears. Thanks
So I have a very weird issue. I have a 3674 2260kv running on a wp sc8 120amp with no issues at all. I recently put a 4076 in its place 2000kv and it cogs and cogs or if I hit full throttle and it's under load it cuts out and the esc goes red light and no throttle. It's in a rustler 4x4 so not much weight I'm running slightly higher gearing to accommodate the much lower kv. I noticed one motor wires feels slightly warm after 30 seconds of use as thats that's its current max run time? Is it possible the new motor is trash or bad solder job from factory? I'm only running 3s and max for the motor is 5s.
I have a 6s Arrma limitless with spektrum 150a esc 2050kv motor I use it for drag racing and from a dead stop when I pull the trigger I have a secon delay from when the car moves and a lag
Thank you. I've re geard my Dr10 drag car to go fast with 2s its 28 pinion and 78 spur on 3s it's fine but 2s it hesitates like crazy but it hauls butt... stock reedy 3300kv sensorles motor?? Now I know what is going on..👍
Hi Elisamuel, the queue for requested videos is over 8 weeks. I haven't forgot about your request! I'm trying to develop a tool that will help in addition to the video. This one isn't so easy to solve but I believe it can be powerful.
How can I stop my rc buggy from cogging? I have a sensored system. I am driving a TLR 8XE Elite with a Tekin 2250KV motor running on 4s lipo with 15/46 gearing.
Excellent video 👍 I have a HPI Baja SC that I converted to electric 8s with Castles XL2 set up. Running at low speeds it stutters terrible. I now believe it because my C rating is 35 and Castle recommends 50C or higher. I'm going to have to chuck these and get something better. Thanks!
Hey Zane, you can also try gearing down after you try higher c rated packs. I often move to smaller pinions when I know I'll be running in grass or any environment with higher drag.
@@theaveragejoebody Yes, I had the wrong C rating for what Castle recommend. The lipo's I had where originally used on my Armma. Night and day difference with that higher C rating.
Not necessarily. It would be better to use a higher kv and gear it down significantly so that one rotation of the motor has the most minimal rotation at the wheels.
Just changed ESC and it solved cogging in my case. FIlightline ESC 30A was cogging - I tried all settings and nothing. Maybe because this ESC is for airplanes. Today I tried some cheap noname 30A ESC that worked instantly.
I'm getting a lot of hesitation upon launch I have a arrma 6S infraction version 2 and I am doing no prep and prep drag racing I have stock motor and stock esc 42t spur and 20t pion gears the other cars are a taking off be for me I have a good RT but the car just will not take off when it's time will a cappack fix this
I have somethign for you my kraton exb only coggs when i use a powerfull 6s lipo.. punch 7. The system is the blx 185 2050kv motor stock pinion was 12 i run 14t. Electronics are brand new esc to blame? Im at a complete loss im getting a new esc but kidna suck i bought if from someone who doesnt own the warranty of horizon. I checked my bullets xt90 connectors ceramic motor bearings...
Hello very good channel indeed and in this video I saw an issue that sometimes I had with my granite 4x4 3s BLX... that start up hesitation. Altought I had somehow a problem with my first esc that suddendly"died" I found with time that pressing the trigger more slightly would not trigger that hesitation so often. Thanks for a lot of interesting videos. By the way I still have that great awesome boat supervee 27 with that motor and I would to know your oppinion. We could run two 7 cell nmh packs in series in a total of 21 volts. I am running mine on 4 cell lipo but if would run 5 cell lipo it would be also 21volts.Do you think that would be possible?
Hello, I ran the SuperVee 27 back in 2008 or so. I do remember some people trying 5s, however, I found that 65km/h is achievable using 4s LiPo and fine trying different props. My suggestion would be to continue running 4s LiPo. The hull gets really unstable at speeds that are higher then that.
@@RCexplained Yeah... indeed on 4s the boat seems to"ride on wheels" on long ponds but this doubt as always been on my mind. Does the stock electronics cope with the burst of current of 5s lipo?🤩🤩
Thanks for the videos. Between you and John Holmes I've learned alot about rc motors in the last couple months. I have a question about dielectric properties. There are lots of testimonials on RUclips about the effectiveness of using corrosion x to make electronics more water resistant. Unfortunately we can't get it in Canadian stores. Fluid film looks promising but the two products use different units to describe their dielectric properties. Dielectric strength of 37kV for corrosion x and specific conductivity of 'less than 10 -9 ohms/cm @1 mHz' for fluid film. I haven't been able to find out how to convert one to the other for comparison. Any advice? Thanks again.
Hi Beleg, thanks for the comment. I totally know what you mean by not having access to CorrosionX in Canada. Probably the reason I have never owned any. Have you looked at just ordering some online? I'm not sure you can compare these values based on the different methods of how they are determined and measured. It's breakdown voltage of the dielectric vs resistance of another product. It's unfortunate they only provide one value as a means of understanding its resistive property The specific conductivity for the Fluid Line product, typically measure in Siemens is expressed in 10 ^-9 ohms/cm. Siemens is also expressed as mho (ohm spelled backwards) Assuming this is what they mean, you can convert this to Specific resistivity, but relating it any further will be challenging. The best I can suggest is taking the Specific Conductivity Value and converting this to a Specific Resistivity. It may be more simple to buy a cheap ESC and operate it with the product testing its performance while introducing water. If you like the results, use the product. What do you think?
Thanks for the reply. I was starting to wonder if that value was supposed to be exponential notation but they left out the ^ symbol. And I thought a product labeled as non conductive should have a hight ohm value and not a low one. Anyway, the math and physics involved is getting too complex for me so I'll take your advice and do some experimentation. Just upgraded 3 rtr rigs to brushless so I've got some electronics I can sacrifice. Thanks for your time.
I replaced my velineon 3500kv system with a spektrum firma 85A 4000kv system and it's fast but I have no low end anymore. It has to get rolling before it will stand up. It's frustrating. My velineon system did standing back flips
Yes, I looked at the specs of the firma motor vs velineon and on paper the 4000kv motor should also get your RC to stand up. The firma motor will draw more current upon acceleration, if your battery isn't up to the challenge you may not get the performance that you are expecting. IR of the battery comes from your charger. Does your charger support this feature? How old is the battery?
@@RCexplained well it does have a lot of power. I can wheelie all day. It's just from a stop it cogs out. Once it's barely rolling it will stand up all day. The battery is a few years old but I didn't have issues with the velineon system. Maybe because the the esc draws more?
finally kv explained in a way where an average brained guy understands, ive tried telling my friend my2600 kv motor was faster then my 2050 and he thought i was nuts
@@RCexplained it was working fine at first , then I went cogging , I’ve recently changed to a 17T pinion , runny 60a esc. 3650 surpass hobby 3900 kv motor in ftx zorro
I have a volcano epx pro and its cogging really bad I've tried everything. I put it in grass that's so short and it cogs three times then wont move. But if I set it on concrete it cogs and gets going. But havent changed anything with the gears or anything smh.
Interesting to think a mechanical issue would afflict or amplify a electrical issue. Good thoughts here. BTW are you Canadian?I heard proooocess and KM not MPH.
Thats weird? What is your setup? Do you know if the cars are running in sensored mode? I do not see hesitation in my sensored setup or others. Otherwise it would defeat the whole point and be near impossible to use for the rock crawler guys.
@@RCexplained Hi Ryan - its a Hobbywing XR10 Pro 1s ESC and various brushless sensored motors - such as Surpass V4s 13.5t, and Motiv MC3 13.5t. I notice it most when switching from forward, brake to reverse. My xmitter is a sanwa MT44.
I wish you would spit out the solution earlier on , and then follow up with a more detailed break down for those who have the focus and patience; but i got god damn ADHD and the solution to my mania is flying my god damn cogging out mother F'er airplane i build
Took my motor from one car to another and now I'm having this issue. This guy says to buy another motor. That is not a solution. That is going a whole other way. And now power don't work, either. This guy have no clue. Brother, i sure do hope your arm don't start soasming and your doctor gave the same think as you and wasn't to go on and cut that arm off and put on a new one lol.
Very detailed explainations in all your vids, I learned more from you than I did at university
Hey Alex, thanks for the kind words! I appreciate it greatly!
Great advice. Just changed over to my 1st brushless system. Terrible motor stuttering... was about to return it as faulty. Re soldered bullet connectors and also battery connector, freed up wheels and now it's way improved! Does need a shove to get it going now and again but much better... Cheers, great advice!
Hey Peter, thanks for the comment. I've found that having healthy LiPo battery packs have helped me the most. I'm glad your situation has improved!
Dropping pinion tooth on motor, gearing down, will help enormously. Yes, you will lose some top end, but gain much on low end.
Many non-sensored brushless systems such as arrma big rock, come with a 15 tooth pinion. Yet it tops out at 50mph.
If you don't need 50, you can reduce pinion tooth and gain low end, while also running a cooler motor/esc.
Thanks for great video. I had extreme cogging issue with my wltoys 124017 and I have watched many videos and no one mentioned the binding check, I did rotate the front wheel and noticed the issue with binding immediately and I could fix that easy.
Such a gem of a find between all this ruff stuff clear as anyone needs thank you for your time 😎🤯
Thanks for the awesome comment just P. X!
Suuubscriiiibed! You do a great job 'splainin stuff. Thank you. Just 5 videos in, I am learning a lot of useful tips for my 3 hobbies that all use brushless motors. The motor timing vid was perfectly clear.
This video is great. I now understand what the problem is with my GoolRC motor ESC combo from Amazon. I put a cheap 60A ESC on an old T-Maxx that weighs a ton
I'm glad the video helps! You can always try reducing the pinion count on the motor. This will unload the motor to help with the heavier T-Maxx.
Yes. First video explaining my concern, thank you!
Glad it helped!
Hi there, great vid. Can you tell us if running a car with this hesitation damages anything? It's happening on my brushless Zorro and I will try what you have said. But if it doesn't fix it am I doing any damage by using the car?
Hello I have a xstr 1/10 buggy (normal brushed motor) I have brought a new brushless combo which is 4370kv with a 60a esc both waterproof and can also take 2s or 3s Lipo. It keeps cogging every time I try let it off on ground, it starts to clog for a few seconds and THEN picks up speed. If you could please as to how I can solve this, also I’m using a 3s 11.1v 3s 2200mah overlander battery, am I using the wrong battery? I have also purchased a esc programmer for this combo just waiting on it. If you could help would be much appreciated thank you
So glad I found your channel ❤❤
I'm glad you found it ! Enjoy your stay!
In my car if i remove motor from gears it still do coughing or stuttering a little bit than it starts nd works nicely what should i do
My problem is what you are showing, do you get the same thing happen when you hold car off the ground ? I don't. Only when it's on ground.
I have a GTB novak brushless sensored system in a Losi xxx-sct. I am having a weird issue. My Platinum Orion 2S 4800mah (I believe its a 25C pack but it does not say) pack works perfectly fine with the setup but my Zeee 2S 6200mah 60C battery has really bad stuttering when I take off at full throttle. I have two Zeee packs and they both do it. It does not happen when I ease into the throttle though. Any idea what could be causing this problem? I thought I might have gotten some bad battery packs a while ago or maybe the Novak GTB esc just does not like the higher C rating batteries? I was going to order some different brand packs with the higher C rating like the Zeee packs I have and see if the issue continues. If you have any ideas why this could be happening I am all ears. Thanks
So I have a very weird issue. I have a 3674 2260kv running on a wp sc8 120amp with no issues at all. I recently put a 4076 in its place 2000kv and it cogs and cogs or if I hit full throttle and it's under load it cuts out and the esc goes red light and no throttle. It's in a rustler 4x4 so not much weight I'm running slightly higher gearing to accommodate the much lower kv. I noticed one motor wires feels slightly warm after 30 seconds of use as thats that's its current max run time? Is it possible the new motor is trash or bad solder job from factory? I'm only running 3s and max for the motor is 5s.
I have a 6s Arrma limitless with spektrum 150a esc 2050kv motor I use it for drag racing and from a dead stop when I pull the trigger I have a secon delay from when the car moves and a lag
Thank you. I've re geard my Dr10 drag car to go fast with 2s its 28 pinion and 78 spur on 3s it's fine but 2s it hesitates like crazy but it hauls butt... stock reedy 3300kv sensorles motor?? Now I know what is going on..👍
What is the C rating of your 2s LiPo?
Same...custom slash reedy 3300 combo...50c 5000mah 2s
Great video. What is the 1/8 scale buggy in the video? Thanks!
Hobao VSE.
I am using a 23 tooth pinion and am experiencing tons of clogging in the grass do you think that would be why should I use a 16 tooth in the grass?
That was very informative. Thanks for the explanation.
Hi, I am waiting to see the video on how to know my C rating on the lipo is what are you getting
Hi Elisamuel, the queue for requested videos is over 8 weeks. I haven't forgot about your request! I'm trying to develop a tool that will help in addition to the video. This one isn't so easy to solve but I believe it can be powerful.
Thanks bud, I just put a brushless in my Teton and thought it was a bad Motor since I don’t have experience with brushless.
How can I stop my rc buggy from cogging? I have a sensored system. I am driving a TLR 8XE Elite with a Tekin 2250KV motor running on 4s lipo with 15/46 gearing.
i have a castle 800kv thats sensored and i have a small amount of cogging
my esc is xlx2
Hi, great video and great information thank you. You just need a table and a "Radio Control Info" banner in the back ground. Cheers mate
That would be cool! Thanks TheWheels for the comment!
Excellent video 👍 I have a HPI Baja SC that I converted to electric 8s with Castles XL2 set up. Running at low speeds it stutters terrible. I now believe it because my C rating is 35 and Castle recommends 50C or higher. I'm going to have to chuck these and get something better. Thanks!
If you can, get the highest C rating and largest capacity (mAh) possible. Both of these will help you!
@@RCexplained Thanks again!
Rob was this your issue? I'm having the same problem. Im going to try a higher C rating today. It happens when im in grass
Hey Zane, you can also try gearing down after you try higher c rated packs. I often move to smaller pinions when I know I'll be running in grass or any environment with higher drag.
@@theaveragejoebody Yes, I had the wrong C rating for what Castle recommend. The lipo's I had where originally used on my Armma. Night and day difference with that higher C rating.
Hello. Can you please explain - does minimum motor speed depend on KV? I mean, will a lower KV motor be able to rotate slower without cogging?
Not necessarily. It would be better to use a higher kv and gear it down significantly so that one rotation of the motor has the most minimal rotation at the wheels.
I have 3 drift cars. All with sensorless set up. 2 have no cogging but only 1 is cogging. So what did I miss?
Just changed ESC and it solved cogging in my case. FIlightline ESC 30A was cogging - I tried all settings and nothing. Maybe because this ESC is for airplanes. Today I tried some cheap noname 30A ESC that worked instantly.
What about syncing 2speed gearboxes?
What would that look like? What do you mean by syncing? I did play around with a 2 speed electric setup years ago.
Would advancing the motors timing make a senseless setup cog more off the line?
Depends on several factors.
I'm getting a lot of hesitation upon launch I have a arrma 6S infraction version 2 and I am doing no prep and prep drag racing I have stock motor and stock esc 42t spur and 20t pion gears the other cars are a taking off be for me I have a good RT but the car just will not take off when it's time will a cappack fix this
Cap pack will not fix this.
I figured out the problem I'm geared to high for the stock motor and esc iv already ordered the upgrade
Thank you for your time
Thanks for watching redndeyes!
I have somethign for you my kraton exb only coggs when i use a powerfull 6s lipo.. punch 7. The system is the blx 185 2050kv motor stock pinion was 12 i run 14t. Electronics are brand new esc to blame? Im at a complete loss im getting a new esc but kidna suck i bought if from someone who doesnt own the warranty of horizon. I checked my bullets xt90 connectors ceramic motor bearings...
Do you know what the internal resistance of the cells are in the 6s pack? What other packs have you tried where you do not have motor hesitation?
Hello very good channel indeed and in this video I saw an issue that sometimes I had with my granite 4x4 3s BLX... that start up hesitation. Altought I had somehow a problem with my first esc that suddendly"died" I found with time that pressing the trigger more slightly would not trigger that hesitation so often. Thanks for a lot of interesting videos. By the way I still have that great awesome boat supervee 27 with that motor and I would to know your oppinion. We could run two 7 cell nmh packs in series in a total of 21 volts. I am running mine on 4 cell lipo but if would run 5 cell lipo it would be also 21volts.Do you think that would be possible?
Hello, I ran the SuperVee 27 back in 2008 or so. I do remember some people trying 5s, however, I found that 65km/h is achievable using 4s LiPo and fine trying different props. My suggestion would be to continue running 4s LiPo. The hull gets really unstable at speeds that are higher then that.
@@RCexplained Yeah... indeed on 4s the boat seems to"ride on wheels" on long ponds but this doubt as always been on my mind. Does the stock electronics cope with the burst of current of 5s lipo?🤩🤩
You would be really pushing the ESC on 5s. You are drawing around 42A constant using 4s LiPo. 5s would be over the 45A rating.
It’s a hsp xstr standard 1/10 buggy, I tried to configure the settings on the remote control but still doing the same thing
Thanks for the videos. Between you and John Holmes I've learned alot about rc motors in the last couple months. I have a question about dielectric properties. There are lots of testimonials on RUclips about the effectiveness of using corrosion x to make electronics more water resistant. Unfortunately we can't get it in Canadian stores. Fluid film looks promising but the two products use different units to describe their dielectric properties. Dielectric strength of 37kV for corrosion x and specific conductivity of 'less than 10 -9 ohms/cm @1 mHz' for fluid film. I haven't been able to find out how to convert one to the other for comparison. Any advice? Thanks again.
Hi Beleg, thanks for the comment. I totally know what you mean by not having access to CorrosionX in Canada. Probably the reason I have never owned any. Have you looked at just ordering some online?
I'm not sure you can compare these values based on the different methods of how they are determined and measured. It's breakdown voltage of the dielectric vs resistance of another product. It's unfortunate they only provide one value as a means of understanding its resistive property
The specific conductivity for the Fluid Line product, typically measure in Siemens is expressed in 10 ^-9 ohms/cm. Siemens is also expressed as mho (ohm spelled backwards) Assuming this is what they mean, you can convert this to Specific resistivity, but relating it any further will be challenging. The best I can suggest is taking the Specific Conductivity Value and converting this to a Specific Resistivity.
It may be more simple to buy a cheap ESC and operate it with the product testing its performance while introducing water. If you like the results, use the product. What do you think?
Thanks for the reply. I was starting to wonder if that value was supposed to be exponential notation but they left out the ^ symbol. And I thought a product labeled as non conductive should have a hight ohm value and not a low one. Anyway, the math and physics involved is getting too complex for me so I'll take your advice and do some experimentation. Just upgraded 3 rtr rigs to brushless so I've got some electronics I can sacrifice.
Thanks for your time.
I replaced my velineon 3500kv system with a spektrum firma 85A 4000kv system and it's fast but I have no low end anymore. It has to get rolling before it will stand up. It's frustrating. My velineon system did standing back flips
Haha. I just realized this was one of your videos. Lol thanks man.
Yes, I looked at the specs of the firma motor vs velineon and on paper the 4000kv motor should also get your RC to stand up. The firma motor will draw more current upon acceleration, if your battery isn't up to the challenge you may not get the performance that you are expecting. IR of the battery comes from your charger. Does your charger support this feature? How old is the battery?
@@RCexplained well it does have a lot of power. I can wheelie all day. It's just from a stop it cogs out. Once it's barely rolling it will stand up all day. The battery is a few years old but I didn't have issues with the velineon system. Maybe because the the esc draws more?
Very Informative! Thanks for your time man.
You bet! Thanks for the comment Tyler!
is this hesitation time reduced when using a higher S rate? (for example 3s instead of 2s)
No, not necessarily
Can you run a sensored system on a sensorless system or will it mess up motor
You can run a sensored motor on a sensorless ESC. It will behave as a sensorless system.
finally kv explained in a way where an average brained guy understands, ive tried telling my friend my2600 kv motor was faster then my 2050 and he thought i was nuts
Thanks for the comment Kevin.
Great video as always ryan. Love learning more about this stuff!
Hey Colin! Thank you for the comment!
Mines was moving fine and then suddenly , it doesn’t move at all just juddering when I pick it up the wheels spins fine 😩how do I fix
is this in on a brand new healthy battery pack? If not try one out.
@@RCexplained yess I have 4 2s 5000 mah Lipo
@@RCexplained it was working fine at first , then I went cogging , I’ve recently changed to a 17T pinion , runny 60a esc. 3650 surpass hobby 3900 kv motor in ftx zorro
increasing the pinion gear tooth count will increase the chance of motor hesitation
Great video.
Would a 2s have more hesitation compared to a 3 or 4s or greater?
Thanks Mark! In some specific cases voltage does change hesitation behavior but not always.
I have a volcano epx pro and its cogging really bad I've tried everything. I put it in grass that's so short and it cogs three times then wont move. But if I set it on concrete it cogs and gets going. But havent changed anything with the gears or anything smh.
Have you tried significantly dropping the pinion gear tooth count on your motor?
Interesting to think a mechanical issue would afflict or amplify a electrical issue. Good thoughts here. BTW are you Canadian?I heard proooocess and KM not MPH.
Thanks for the comment. Yes Canadian, although every country except for maybe two speak in mph. :)
Very good, thanks!
Thank you Tony!
I like the 2 cameras. I actually get this problem on my sensored cars.
Thats weird? What is your setup? Do you know if the cars are running in sensored mode? I do not see hesitation in my sensored setup or others. Otherwise it would defeat the whole point and be near impossible to use for the rock crawler guys.
@@RCexplained Hi Ryan - its a Hobbywing XR10 Pro 1s ESC and various brushless sensored motors - such as Surpass V4s 13.5t, and Motiv MC3 13.5t. I notice it most when switching from forward, brake to reverse. My xmitter is a sanwa MT44.
@@xaviertaylor759 xr10 isnt Sensored
Hi would a sensored motor run slow without the sensor wire
A sensored motor would operate as a sensorless motor with no sensor wire.
i done a bulid its ran flawless for 10+ runs and today came to go out with her and the cogging so bad it wont even start up unless pushed lol..
Hi AJ that sucks. How old is the battery? Is it in good condition with low internal resistance?
@@RCexplained its a overlander just a 2s 35c on a 60amp i think its the esc thats gone lol its about 2months old
I seen it.... after I skipped the ad.
Hi Chose Bines, thank you, I''ll place these in the middle of a video next time!
For 5 minutes you said the same thing over and over..After the 1st 5 min u start to cook with peanut oil
I wish you would spit out the solution earlier on , and then follow up with a more detailed break down for those who have the focus and patience; but i got god damn ADHD and the solution to my mania is flying my god damn cogging out mother F'er airplane i build
Just buy sensored!
I'd love to, but I've never seen a sensored motor for an airplane, boat, helicopter or drone.
Took my motor from one car to another and now I'm having this issue. This guy says to buy another motor. That is not a solution. That is going a whole other way. And now power don't work, either. This guy have no clue.
Brother, i sure do hope your arm don't start soasming and your doctor gave the same think as you and wasn't to go on and cut that arm off and put on a new one lol.
unexpected video closings.
how to eliminate the problems a cheap bruhless motor: first buy an expensive motor
you can, but not required.