with toilet flanges I tap around the center of the flange with a hammer and progressively hit harder before I cut the reliefs. sometimes they breaker the glue joint free. if not I cut my reliefs and pry on the peices first. my trick is not to pry on the the pipe or fitting I'm trying to save. I do a lot of this and have a pretty good success rate as a service plumber. I have some good tricks for removing copper male adapters and galvanized pipe from cast iron. just takes patience and thinking out side the box when in tight confinement. detection and location are a specialty of mine also. thanks for the videos boss. keep them coming.
As a 3rd generation plumber who has done all of these ways I will warn of #3 which works great on large diameter pipe like 12”-16”. Don’t use this method if pipe was glued together in last week or so PVC glue is explosive if contained. The vapors are heavy and will settle in pipe. Trust me on this I have seen what happens. Several hundred feet of pipe was turned into shards of plastic. It was not pretty and if someone had been in ditch they would have died. If pipe is aired out works great.
I love that you keep the set attempts in. Its for beginners to see. Even an experience professional can make mistakes. But, the best learn from them and improve because of them.
I'm a construction plumber and I have all pipe sizes socket saver from 11/2 to 4". When I was a apprentice I worked with a foreman who didn't know about these bits and he made me dig under a tee that tied into the city sewer because it was broken inside the top of the hub. The tee was still good. The trench was about 3 feet deep and about $60 dollars in fittings. Years later, I worked with a different foreman and we was in the same situation. Broken pipe in the hub on top of the San tee. But this time I didn't have to dig 3 feet down. The foreman had a set of reed ram bits and that's where I learned to use the ram bits and I've used it numerous times since then. Framers on the grade all forklifts constantly break our risers for sewer pipes. I have the raptor brand socket savers from Ferguson. They are not as nice as the Reed ram bits but way cheaper and they work fine for me. Thanks for the video Roger. Perhaps you saved some people from digging unnecessary trenches in the future. Haha.
Hey Roger! I know I’m super late to the party on this one, but ive seen people use the cleaner to soften the pipe when trying to cut out the pipe to soften it! Helps make it a little easier trying not to break the fitting!
You didnt comment about the setting fire to a fitting when there is active methane in the system, which is highly explosive. This is why i never you this method u less on a bench not connected to the system. Im not disagreeing with you just asking if you have ever used this method when the fitting is attached in a active system. I love your work and how you teach us all. Thank you Roger
@@tightropehikesMethane gas can form in residential sewers too. That’s why even residential houses hoses have traps to prevent sewer gas smell and explosive buildup. I’m no plumber, but I have experienced sewer gas buildup in residential buildings when a drain wasn’t used and the trap dried out. Open flame method might be ok on a work bench but I’d hesitate to use it on a live sewer system regardless of residential or commercial. Sewer gas (methane) is there
@@mousetoad7040 plumber here. I wouldn’t If anything the p-trap would make the buildup more than no trap. This is a non issue for residential plumbing unless the cities infrastructure has failed to a very large degree, meaning entire streets or blocks are non functioning. Just take my word for it
I'm an apprentice plumber and I almost have a year under my belt, we were doing a sewer line tie-in for an added bathroom in a garage and used a map gas torch and it worked surprisingly well.
1:23 into the video 🤣 I've had to do this many times. My favorite method is heating a holesaw with a heat gun or torch that fits snug inside the pipe I'm trying to remove. This method is super clean and safer than igniting glue, putting the heat exactly where i want it, especially if there's crazy sewer gas...
@ Tackle box yup was about to say that none of these methods will work on abs. Maybe if lucky the first two might. Abs tends to just melt and bind together again when cut with sawzall
Great job Sr. I did this in those 3 ways. Another tip: I use a heat gun also getting a good and clean fitting. Most part of the time after extraction use a pipe to keep the shape while fitting still hot
Very cool. The only thing I would've done differently on the last one is use an acetylene torch on a hole saw bit roughly the same size as the inside diameter of the PVC. That way you're limiting the heat to the inside of the fitting and not risking compromising the fitting or giving out unnecessary fumes. Great video!
Thanks for sharing your experience. I have done the sawz-all with a hammer and screwdriver in the past. My experience with this method was like yours. I really like the Ram bit for drilling out the pipe from the fitting hub, but I've never heard of heating the pipe still glued inside a fitting hub. That's a fantastic idea, and it looks pretty clean. Thank you
The reed pipe tools clean ream extreme is an excellent tool. Works for drainage and pressure. If you do more than 2-3 cut and peels a year it’s worth it’s weight in gold. I have the 2” and the 4”. Recently bought the 1 1/4” for a specific job. They’re worth it. I’m going to have the full set eventually just getting them one by one.
Socket saver is my go to tool for something like this. Ive broken so many fittings with the sawzall screwdriver method. And ive always been scared to have an open flame in or underneath a house or building. Just not willing to risk it these days.
@@RogerWakefield I know sometimes you do those plumbing vs other trade videos can you do one with plumbing vs automotive technician on your opinion on the auto industry.
iv also used the hole saw method and a heat gun and iv seen it done with a torch as well but you need a peace of pipe to put in to keep it round after you remove the old one and its time consuming as well
As I’m watching what you’re doing. The first idea seems to be an excellent idea. however when trying to perform that type of repair most of the time you’re in a tight spot which will not allow you to use a salsa or any type of cutting tool since you will be in such a awkward position. I have personally used your second method of saving a fitting. There’s actually a company that sells a kit with the different sizes for your drill. They have two separate styles of kit for cutting a PVC pipe and having a perfectly round male and a female removal kit as well. Know using fire for removing PVC I’ve never utilized that method. in my opinion it seems dangerous depending on the individual situation. You never know if there’s any methane gases that have collected in the pipe unless it’s a new construction.
Just do like I did by having a contractor you hired ride a heavy piece of tracked machinery over your septic mound... busted all the pipes up real nice for me... :-|
I don’t deal with plumbing pipe at all but I do deal with pvc conduit quite often I wonder how the fitting saver would work with that even us sparkeys goober once in a while and it would be nice to save the fitting
Stud Pack did a video on this it was called "Heat Gun VS Hole Saw - Removing Glued PVC/ABS Pipe Fittings" it was a very informative video, and Got2Learn did a video as well, RUclips has surprisingly taught me how to do my job better a lot of times! Thanks for all the work you put into your videos man! 👊
I use a torch and heat the inside of the pipe like you are toasting a marshmallow, when it turns a light brown color it twist out easily. Works every time.
Ram bit is the go to but I’ve chipped out many of fittings. Not sure why he made so many cuts. I just do two cuts about an inch apart with the sawzall or sawzall blade. Then if you chip it right the rest will come out in one piece.
Instead of the sawzall and screw driver I've used a half inch wood chisel and hammer. Thanks for the tip on using fire. I had seen it done before but I needed a refresher course.
@@RogerWakefield I did start off trying to fire method, however the whole fitting started to flex and bend, so I backed off of that and went with my old standby. Actually more of a combination of the two as the space I was working in was incredibly tight.
I'm trying to do the opposite. Previous owner glued on the connector to the ptrap to the stub out under the sink and there's very little real estate to work with coming out of the wall. Going to try to take off the old glued fitting but save the pipe and get a marvel connector.
Instead of using the glue to heat up the fitting I take one of my hole saws and I find the one that’s closest to the ID of the pipe. Heat up the hole saw to the point where its near red hot and stick it in the pipe for 5-10 seconds then peel out the pipe from the fitting. No smoke like with lighting the glue on fire
Socket saver is a must have, I actually use it for other things, like when I’m roughing in urinals, I’ll glue the 2” into the wall, and once the drywall and paint is done, I’ll use the socket saver on the two inch pipe, so that urinal flange fits perfectly 1/2” in from the finish wall. Whenever we are doing underground and the concrete guy snaps the pipe, after THEY chip some concrete around where they snapped it, I’ll use a socket saver down below the concrete to put a coupling on. OR if you’re pipe isn’t quiet roughed into the wall, you can save the pipe down low enough to get a 32nd bend or whatever and squeeze that into the wall
I am an apprentice and I have a doubt, that does not cause problems when the pipe is in operation and the gases come out of the drain after you put fire, could it be something dangerous?
Roger. If I use the fire method on a two way clean out. Should ball stop the open side going on the opposite run? i.e melting home side, stopping city side. or city side, blocking home side. In preventing some sort of backdraft leading into a home, or traveling down the city line. I'm sure methane build ups can be troublesome. Thanks for the video!
I used to do it at work score your pipe with the saw like you said and then take a heat gun or a blow dryer and heat the pipe on the inside then take a pair of pliers and turn the pipe n-word and a rose around a circle and pulls away from the glue fitting then you can pull the piece of pipe out
Might be wrong on this, but it looks like a good case for a plaster heat gun and an ultrasonic knife. Only problem is the ultrasonic knives usually have a very short blade, and you know, very easy to cut the whole thing apart... xD
The best method is to use an old hole saw. I actually learned this method from the got2learn channel. You get a hole saw that fits as close as possible to tue inside of the pipe. Get it red hot with a torch then stick it inside. Use vise grips to hold it at a certain depth. You can pull the old pipe out with your hand this way.
Yeah I seen that video. Stud Pack also did a really good video it was called "Heat Gun VS Hole Saw - Removing Glued PVC/ABS Pipe Fittings" if you haven't watched that yet, they are a great channel to watch. Son and father team and they do excellent work, and it's a great family friendly channel. I've learned a lot from them, and Got2Learn at the same time. Although G2L hasn't posted a video in a while.
@@Chris.Rhodes I watch their channel. They’re one of the few handyman channels that actually does plumbing properly. They didn’t do the hole saw method I use in that video. They used the hole saw like a fitting saver bit whereas I heat it up
I cut one slot, heat up with heat gun, when the temp is right and solvent weld releases the piece can be pealed off with a pair of pliers. Great tricks Roger, I never thought of using the glue as fuel source for heat but I bet it really freaking stinks ! ALWAYS USE CHEMICAL MASK WITH PVC !
I want to do this on a fresh water fitting. Will this reduce the pressure rating of a PVC fitting?. Because a bunch of people moved into my household I have to do it at night. Usually towards the end I get tired - and forget to put in a shutoff valve. I hate that! I then have to buy all new fittings and sometimes start over - because the pipe is too short (but not short enough for a coupling)
Hi. Regarding method 2. Can you go into detail about how you clean the inside of the elbow after you grind the pipe out. Do we need to remove all of the purple thats in there? With what? What if the bit scratched or gauged the inside of the elbow..is that ok. Obviously im not a plumber. Just a home owner. Id had a plumber do some work in my basement to my drain pipes and its leaking at the connection. It seems he didnt push the pipe into the elbow deep enough. Im trying to figure out how to fix it. Thanks
"Ways you can remove an old fitting, don't try this at home I am a trained professional", he says while he has the fuel source less than a foot away from the burning fire.... 🤣
hole saw bit (like you'd use on a door). choose one smaller than your fitting, hit it with heat til it glows and slip it into your pipe. Fantastic at controlled softening, no open flame and peel the pipe right out with whatever plier device you prefer.
one thing to do this on a nice clean workbench with no obstructions around you, quite different to do this under a building laying in a dirt trench that took you three days to dig out while laying on your side and barely enough room to move.
Excellent tips! The only value added comment that I have is, swap the reciprocating saw for a cordless Dremel with a cut off disk. This method is much more precise with less of a chance of damaging the fitting.
Almost forgot... Another option is to heat up a holesaw bit that is slightly smaller then the diameter of the pipe. Place the scalding hot bit inside for a minute or two and use needle nose pliers to twist and remove the pipe out .
I've been playing 3/4" - 1.5" late and it's fun. True doesn't always work but heating it does. I'm planning to fix a 6in chiller pipe in a few days, Pray for me 🙏🍻
On service calls when I get a broken flange I usually use my Milwaukee M 18 hacksaw. 8 inch flat head screwdriver and a hammer. I charge by the hour so that’s mainly why I do that. Prep work is key
@@RogerWakefield thank you so much, I really enjoyed your video., i hope this tool will make it easy for me, since i already broke a pipe trying to take a flange off 😱
whenever i do the flathead and hammer method, I heat up the PVC i am trying to remove. It makes the PVC much more pliable and easy to remove without it shattering. try it out!
I use a combination heatgun & Sawzall, meaning I cut a slit into the pipe heat the area and roll the pipe off heating as I go. A good tip is to use a wet rag to keep the fitting cool as you roll to prevent it from deforming
Y’all I know heat gun is the better tool! But I wanted to have some fun today. Have you tried this trick before?
Never tried a heat gun..might try it one day
My mentor used his map gas torch to soften the pipe
ABS is the tricky one.
@@jordanwhite6098 that stuff is the work of the devil, always makes me cringe when I see it 😂🔥
with toilet flanges I tap around the center of the flange with a hammer and progressively hit harder before I cut the reliefs. sometimes they breaker the glue joint free. if not I cut my reliefs and pry on the peices first. my trick is not to pry on the the pipe or fitting I'm trying to save. I do a lot of this and have a pretty good success rate as a service plumber. I have some good tricks for removing copper male adapters and galvanized pipe from cast iron. just takes patience and thinking out side the box when in tight confinement. detection and location are a specialty of mine also. thanks for the videos boss. keep them coming.
Always make sure you leave an open can of glue that is super flammable right next to the pipe on fire
I learned right away not to do anything this man says
Thanks, going to the store tomorrow so I'll grab the glue
Put a blow lamp flame over the pot and you’ll get a mild pop. It won’t explode but it’s a great reminder to put the top on.
Don’t forget to wear your green nitrile gloves when working with fire!
The real tips are always in the comments thanks
As a 3rd generation plumber who has done all of these ways I will warn of #3 which works great on large diameter pipe like 12”-16”. Don’t use this method if pipe was glued together in last week or so PVC glue is explosive if contained. The vapors are heavy and will settle in pipe. Trust me on this I have seen what happens. Several hundred feet of pipe was turned into shards of plastic. It was not pretty and if someone had been in ditch they would have died. If pipe is aired out works great.
I love that you keep the set attempts in. Its for beginners to see. Even an experience professional can make mistakes. But, the best learn from them and improve because of them.
I always put a hose clamp on the fitting hub so it does not crack when I remove pieces of pipe.
Good idea.
I'm a construction plumber and I have all pipe sizes socket saver from 11/2 to 4". When I was a apprentice I worked with a foreman who didn't know about these bits and he made me dig under a tee that tied into the city sewer because it was broken inside the top of the hub. The tee was still good. The trench was about 3 feet deep and about $60 dollars in fittings. Years later, I worked with a different foreman and we was in the same situation. Broken pipe in the hub on top of the San tee. But this time I didn't have to dig 3 feet down. The foreman had a set of reed ram bits and that's where I learned to use the ram bits and I've used it numerous times since then. Framers on the grade all forklifts constantly break our risers for sewer pipes. I have the raptor brand socket savers from Ferguson. They are not as nice as the Reed ram bits but way cheaper and they work fine for me. Thanks for the video Roger. Perhaps you saved some people from digging unnecessary trenches in the future. Haha.
Yea the Raptors are cheap but they still work. Have to break mine out from time to time. I don't use them enough to have a real nice set
Im 4 months into a plumbing apprenticeship and your videos are great, i love my new profession altho ik their are gonna be some growing pains
Hey Roger! I know I’m super late to the party on this one, but ive seen people use the cleaner to soften the pipe when trying to cut out the pipe to soften it! Helps make it a little easier trying not to break the fitting!
I love how honest you are and show us even your failed videos
Because "I" am the DUMMY that always tries to take the easy way and $(r3w it all up!...
You didnt comment about the setting fire to a fitting when there is active methane in the system, which is highly explosive. This is why i never you this method u less on a bench not connected to the system. Im not disagreeing with you just asking if you have ever used this method when the fitting is attached in a active system. I love your work and how you teach us all. Thank you Roger
Brother chill. He said residential service
@@tightropehikesMethane gas can form in residential sewers too. That’s why even residential houses hoses have traps to prevent sewer gas smell and explosive buildup. I’m no plumber, but I have experienced sewer gas buildup in residential buildings when a drain wasn’t used and the trap dried out. Open flame method might be ok on a work bench but I’d hesitate to use it on a live sewer system regardless of residential or commercial. Sewer gas (methane) is there
@@mousetoad7040 plumber here. I wouldn’t
If anything the p-trap would make the buildup more than no trap.
This is a non issue for residential plumbing unless the cities infrastructure has failed to a very large degree, meaning entire streets or blocks are non functioning.
Just take my word for it
5:40 …is there any risk of igniting the methane from the down stream sewer lines?
Studpack did this same test on the way to remove pipe from a fitting as well, good job Roger!
I'm an apprentice plumber and I almost have a year under my belt, we were doing a sewer line tie-in for an added bathroom in a garage and used a map gas torch and it worked surprisingly well.
I bet that smelled great.
Thanks I'm about to do the same
1:23 into the video 🤣
I've had to do this many times. My favorite method is heating a holesaw with a heat gun or torch that fits snug inside the pipe I'm trying to remove. This method is super clean and safer than igniting glue, putting the heat exactly where i want it, especially if there's crazy sewer gas...
Master plumber here, I’ve seen that done on other you tube channel, I tried it on ABS but didn’t work out too good
I've done that very thing on pool plumbing multiple times and it works like a charm on PVC.
@ Tackle box yup was about to say that none of these methods will work on abs. Maybe if lucky the first two might. Abs tends to just melt and bind together again when cut with sawzall
Great job Sr. I did this in those 3 ways. Another tip: I use a heat gun also getting a good and clean fitting. Most part of the time after extraction use a pipe to keep the shape while fitting still hot
Very cool. The only thing I would've done differently on the last one is use an acetylene torch on a hole saw bit roughly the same size as the inside diameter of the PVC. That way you're limiting the heat to the inside of the fitting and not risking compromising the fitting or giving out unnecessary fumes. Great video!
I used to carve it out. Last 5 years I use a heat gun and pliers. 100% success rate
Thanks!
Thats what I do. Or a torch
Thanks for sharing your experience. I have done the sawz-all with a hammer and screwdriver in the past. My experience with this method was like yours. I really like the Ram bit for drilling out the pipe from the fitting hub, but I've never heard of heating the pipe still glued inside a fitting hub. That's a fantastic idea, and it looks pretty clean. Thank you
Try the reed fitting savers
@ Jose Carbajal I heard those are the best but they are expensive
The reed pipe tools clean ream extreme is an excellent tool. Works for drainage and pressure. If you do more than 2-3 cut and peels a year it’s worth it’s weight in gold. I have the 2” and the 4”. Recently bought the 1 1/4” for a specific job. They’re worth it. I’m going to have the full set eventually just getting them one by one.
If I dry fit, how tight is it?
Can agree it’s awesome just wish it was a little bit less expensive. But then again it is a quality CNC machined part that you’ll never buy again.
i like that you show when you fail. makes it easier to learn how to do it.
Did a burnout at work on a riser and it worked perfectly. Learned how to and about it here.
in germany we use HT or KG ROHR systems with a rubber seal. Slip it together. Done.
Ram bit is the best way, been a plumber for 28 years in NC.
Socket saver is my go to tool for something like this. Ive broken so many fittings with the sawzall screwdriver method. And ive always been scared to have an open flame in or underneath a house or building. Just not willing to risk it these days.
Another banger Roger, keep it up
Much appreciated Ye11owCake
@@RogerWakefield I know sometimes you do those plumbing vs other trade videos can you do one with plumbing vs automotive technician on your opinion on the auto industry.
noted!
I need to do this next week. Excellent timing!
Your method of the jigsaw worked! Thanks for sharing!
Can I be a good plumber like you! Thanks for your technique.
Hi, thanks for the video. Whats the name of the drill bit a 3:43? I'm searching for it online and can't find it.
Fantastic video! It's definitely targetting every possible audience...awesome..just awesome
Great video bro. An oscillating saw works good also.
iv also used the hole saw method and a heat gun and iv seen it done with a torch as well but you need a peace of pipe to put in to keep it round after you remove the old one and its time consuming as well
Great video Roger ! I usually use the torch or heat gun, heat gun is safer than the flames, however!!
We have been doing this in Nigeria for long that I can't even remember...thanks for sharing this to the public tho
I used an oscillating tool today to remove the outer female fitting it worked great
As I’m watching what you’re doing.
The first idea seems to be an excellent idea. however when trying to perform that type of repair most of the time you’re in a tight spot which will not allow you to use a salsa or any type of cutting tool since you will be in such a awkward position.
I have personally used your second method of saving a fitting. There’s actually a company that sells a kit with the different sizes for your drill. They have two separate styles of kit for cutting a PVC pipe and having a perfectly round male and a female removal kit as well. Know using fire for removing PVC I’ve never utilized that method. in my opinion it seems dangerous depending on the individual situation. You never know if there’s any methane gases that have collected in the pipe unless it’s a new construction.
Just do like I did by having a contractor you hired ride a heavy piece of tracked machinery over your septic mound... busted all the pipes up real nice for me... :-|
I don’t deal with plumbing pipe at all but I do deal with pvc conduit quite often I wonder how the fitting saver would work with that even us sparkeys goober once in a while and it would be nice to save the fitting
Socket saver for the win!!!
Stud Pack did a video on this it was called "Heat Gun VS Hole Saw - Removing Glued PVC/ABS Pipe Fittings" it was a very informative video, and Got2Learn did a video as well, RUclips has surprisingly taught me how to do my job better a lot of times! Thanks for all the work you put into your videos man! 👊
Heat gun Roger👍👍.
Thank you, Roger. Very informative.
Glad you enjoyed it, what was your favorite part?
Fire is fire! Thanks!
I use a torch and heat the inside of the pipe like you are toasting a marshmallow, when it turns a light brown color it twist out easily. Works every time.
Do you check it for gas fumes before you start like a H2S quad monitor?????
I use the socket saver bits. Most DWV pipes in my area are ABS. Never tried the heat method
Lol! Love it. Done the same thing
Ram bit is the go to but I’ve chipped out many of fittings. Not sure why he made so many cuts. I just do two cuts about an inch apart with the sawzall or sawzall blade. Then if you chip it right the rest will come out in one piece.
I have used a dremmel tool to cut out an old piece that I cut out, similar to how you used the sawzall.
Instead of the sawzall and screw driver I've used a half inch wood chisel and hammer. Thanks for the tip on using fire. I had seen it done before but I needed a refresher course.
I do NOT reccomend the fire method in MOST cases...be VERY careful with that one
@@RogerWakefield I did start off trying to fire method, however the whole fitting started to flex and bend, so I backed off of that and went with my old standby. Actually more of a combination of the two as the space I was working in was incredibly tight.
I'm trying to do the opposite. Previous owner glued on the connector to the ptrap to the stub out under the sink and there's very little real estate to work with coming out of the wall. Going to try to take off the old glued fitting but save the pipe and get a marvel connector.
Method #2 looks the best that is if you have the right saw blade. Thanks for the went wrong attempts.. I visit the wrong way once in a while LOL..
Great info! Thanks for sharing!
Any time!
Had to do the first trick with over 20 toilets flanges to offset them all 😂👌🏼 became an expert that day 💪🏼😎
You just showed me three ways not to do it.
Instead of using the glue to heat up the fitting I take one of my hole saws and I find the one that’s closest to the ID of the pipe. Heat up the hole saw to the point where its near red hot and stick it in the pipe for 5-10 seconds then peel out the pipe from the fitting. No smoke like with lighting the glue on fire
The heat gun works great for me, especially when its very cold and the pipe tends to break easily. Thanks for the video.
Socket saver is a must have, I actually use it for other things, like when I’m roughing in urinals, I’ll glue the 2” into the wall, and once the drywall and paint is done, I’ll use the socket saver on the two inch pipe, so that urinal flange fits perfectly 1/2” in from the finish wall. Whenever we are doing underground and the concrete guy snaps the pipe, after THEY chip some concrete around where they snapped it, I’ll use a socket saver down below the concrete to put a coupling on. OR if you’re pipe isn’t quiet roughed into the wall, you can save the pipe down low enough to get a 32nd bend or whatever and squeeze that into the wall
I like your presentation :-)
Thank you!
A pvc fitting saver: saves time and money 😅
And saves brain cells 🤣
As someone who prefers to work with computers, this is quite interesting
Heat gun work the same?
Great information!
I am an apprentice and I have a doubt, that does not cause problems when the pipe is in operation and the gases come out of the drain after you put fire, could it be something dangerous?
Roger. If I use the fire method on a two way clean out. Should ball stop the open side going on the opposite run? i.e melting home side, stopping city side. or city side, blocking home side. In preventing some sort of backdraft leading into a home, or traveling down the city line. I'm sure methane build ups can be troublesome.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks very helpful!
Great tutorial thanks so much!
You are so welcome!
I used to do it at work score your pipe with the saw like you said and then take a heat gun or a blow dryer and heat the pipe on the inside then take a pair of pliers and turn the pipe n-word and a rose around a circle and pulls away from the glue fitting then you can pull the piece of pipe out
I've had to use the saw in the pipe trick on a central vacuum system once, it worked great and saved me from having to open up the drywall.
Might be wrong on this, but it looks like a good case for a plaster heat gun and an ultrasonic knife. Only problem is the ultrasonic knives usually have a very short blade, and you know, very easy to cut the whole thing apart... xD
Nice gloves Roger. They look just like mine😁
When I chip them out I like to cut it twice and apply primer to them before chisel them out , or I used torch and heat it out
The best method is to use an old hole saw. I actually learned this method from the got2learn channel. You get a hole saw that fits as close as possible to tue inside of the pipe. Get it red hot with a torch then stick it inside. Use vise grips to hold it at a certain depth. You can pull the old pipe out with your hand this way.
Yeah I seen that video. Stud Pack also did a really good video it was called "Heat Gun VS Hole Saw - Removing Glued PVC/ABS Pipe Fittings" if you haven't watched that yet, they are a great channel to watch. Son and father team and they do excellent work, and it's a great family friendly channel. I've learned a lot from them, and Got2Learn at the same time. Although G2L hasn't posted a video in a while.
@@Chris.Rhodes I watch their channel. They’re one of the few handyman channels that actually does plumbing properly. They didn’t do the hole saw method I use in that video. They used the hole saw like a fitting saver bit whereas I heat it up
I cut one slot, heat up with heat gun, when the temp is right and solvent weld releases the piece can be pealed off with a pair of pliers. Great tricks Roger, I never thought of using the glue as fuel source for heat but I bet it really freaking stinks ! ALWAYS USE CHEMICAL MASK WITH PVC !
Haha, love showing the fail attempts makes it real...and funny as shit!
I want to do this on a fresh water fitting. Will this reduce the pressure rating of a PVC fitting?. Because a bunch of people moved into my household I have to do it at night. Usually towards the end I get tired - and forget to put in a shutoff valve. I hate that! I then have to buy all new fittings and sometimes start over - because the pipe is too short (but not short enough for a coupling)
Very good video
Thanks
Hi. Regarding method 2. Can you go into detail about how you clean the inside of the elbow after you grind the pipe out. Do we need to remove all of the purple thats in there? With what? What if the bit scratched or gauged the inside of the elbow..is that ok. Obviously im not a plumber. Just a home owner. Id had a plumber do some work in my basement to my drain pipes and its leaking at the connection. It seems he didnt push the pipe into the elbow deep enough. Im trying to figure out how to fix it. Thanks
Torch, screwdriver and channel locks, easy cheezy!
Excellent!!!
"Ways you can remove an old fitting, don't try this at home I am a trained professional", he says while he has the fuel source less than a foot away from the burning fire.... 🤣
I think that's why he inserted the fart sound 🤣
hole saw bit (like you'd use on a door). choose one smaller than your fitting, hit it with heat til it glows and slip it into your pipe. Fantastic at controlled softening, no open flame and peel the pipe right out with whatever plier device you prefer.
one thing to do this on a nice clean workbench with no obstructions around you, quite different to do this under a building laying in a dirt trench that took you three days to dig out while laying on your side and barely enough room to move.
There are fiting savers for inside but nothing for outside. Looks like an easy thing to make.
Excellent tips! The only value added comment that I have is, swap the reciprocating saw for a cordless Dremel with a cut off disk. This method is much more precise with less of a chance of damaging the fitting.
Almost forgot... Another option is to heat up a holesaw bit that is slightly smaller then the diameter of the pipe. Place the scalding hot bit inside for a minute or two and use needle nose pliers to twist and remove the pipe out .
Great tip!
As an electrician, I might get the fitting saver. Might come in handy someday with a conduit fuck up.
I've been playing 3/4" - 1.5" late and it's fun. True doesn't always work but heating it does. I'm planning to fix a 6in chiller pipe in a few days, Pray for me 🙏🍻
I like using the point on the paint scraper to get in between the pipe and fitting, then once i have a little gap using the good ol flathead
Heat gun works well too. Gotta do what you gotta do
Great way to remove PVC pipes
On service calls when I get a broken flange I usually use my Milwaukee M 18 hacksaw. 8 inch flat head screwdriver and a hammer. I charge by the hour so that’s mainly why I do that. Prep work is key
You can use boiling water too. Put fitting in pot of boiling water and edge it out using flat steel piece. It is thermoplastic it softens when warm.
I used to do burn outs before I got a socket saver set.
What is the name of the tool you used with the drill? Thank you.
Hub saver
@@RogerWakefield thank you so much, I really enjoyed your video., i hope this tool will make it easy for me, since i already broke a pipe trying to take a flange off 😱
Roger, what's the best way to stop the flow of water when trying to solder copper pipe?
jet sweat, shark bite, or press fitting
Any issues with "following manufacturers instructions" and warranty work?
Thanks I'm going to try this next time I have full access to a large pipe that's securely fastened to a workbench
Well good luck!
whenever i do the flathead and hammer method, I heat up the PVC i am trying to remove. It makes the PVC much more pliable and easy to remove without it shattering. try it out!
I use a combination heatgun & Sawzall, meaning I cut a slit into the pipe heat the area and roll the pipe off heating as I go. A good tip is to use a wet rag to keep the fitting cool as you roll to prevent it from deforming
Nice!
Keep the open can of fammable glue just inches away from the flame. Awesome smart.
I like the 3way😎