@Maxine Waters You don't have to but I guess if you got the extra time it's not a bad habit to torque power train mounts. I like to torque mounts and torquing is a must for anything that lives in oil but things like shock absorber mounting nuts and engine jewellery, I just go by feel and don't torque.
The TWO STUDS ARE 59/64FT PDS...THE 3 ON THE SIDE IS 35/38 FT PDS...THE IDEA IS TO TAKE THE 3 BOLTS OFF THE BACK FIRST" THE 2 BOLTS UP FRONT IS FASTEN TO ALUMINUM" ( THEY WILL STRIP OUT IF YOU HAVE TO MUCH PRESSURE ON THE MOTOR UNDERNEATH" RASING THE ENGINE TO HIGH" SO TAKE THE 3 BOLTS OFF THE BACK FIRST" ONCE OFF..LIFT THE ENGINE UP JUST TO A LITTLE BIT" THEN TAKE OUT THE TWO BOLTS...YOU DO THE SAME THING IN REVERSE" WHEN YOU PUT THE NEW MOUNT BACK IN...YOU TOURG THEM BACK DOWN TO SPECS" THEN YOU LOWER THE MOUNT BACK DOWN ( SLOWLY ) ON THE CAR" LINE ONE UP" AND PUT THE 3 BOLTS BACK" & TOURGE THEM DOWN...IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT YOU THINK OF THIS INFORMATION I JUST PUT ON HERE" BUT THAT OIL IS GOING 2 COME OUT ANY WAY OVER TIME" BUT IF IT'S NOT TIGHTEN DOWN RIGHT..WITH ALL THAT MOVEMENT AND VIBRATION FROM THE MOTOR" YOU WILL NOT GET THE MAXIMUM AMOUNT OF WEAR OUT OF THE MOUNT" THAT'S THE TRUTH OF A PART JUST NOT INSTALLED CORRECTLY"
@@mg6192 THAT'S THE OLD NUMBERS" IF THAT WHAT YOU HAVE BEEN DOING AND IT WORKS GREAT...JUST REMEMBER.. THAT'S ALUMINUM YOUR WORKING ON" LOCK TIGHT ONLY WORKS IF YOU GOT THRED$
You can troubleshoot the mounts by using a jack and block of wood. Put jack under engine, in area more or less under the mount and just have block of wood touch where you will lift. Engage park brake, start car, and just take the weight slightly off suspected faulty engine mount. Don't lift the whole car! If some or all vibration goes away you have just troubleshot a faulty engine mount without guessing. This avoids costly and rookie mistake of just parts replacing.
I also own a Ford Focus. But am I the only one that laughed when the sound didn't go away, these cars are hilarious😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 Ford Family In It To Win It
Good stuff, just missing the bolt sizes on the one you fixed top left behind the coolant. this video doesn't go to the mount/support underneath so with this and another video i was able to understand what to do. thanks
Hi Axe, Thanks for taking the time to upload. I also had an extreme vibration issue on a 2007 Ford Focus I bought used a week ago with 184k miles. The vibration and noise was much worse than your case or any others examples I've seen videos on. I decided to go with just the single hydraulic motor mount that you were trying to repair. I ended up going with an OEM Ford part for $87 shipped on eBay. Glad I did. The vibration and noise is 100% gone and it's so smooth now. I didn't have to replace the two other motor mounts like I thought I might have to. Though, I am still considering getting cheap Chinese made replacement parts for those mounts to keep the main one lasting longer.
You're welcome, definitely worth the time to fix it. I would recommend you get the factory mount. The aftermarket one was just garbage. Stick around, I'll be uploading a thermostat replacement video this fall.
I appreciate your video. Helps me to understand what the mechanic has to deal with when repairing my car and helps me to understand what he is talking about and helps me to understand the cost.
when ever your doing a video and your using sockets it is a good idea to say what size it is it really helps the viewers out and saves time when gathering tools for a job I am a pro tech at a dealership i have been changing this mount for 16 years now and it is a good idea to torque the nuts
For anyone wondering, the passenger side mount can be replaced with just a bushing insert for $25, most of the time your looking at the entire bracket assembly online for $80.
14:17 laughing my off butt. sound is still present . Not as pronounced buts its still there. Thank you for proving the universe is not against me and this doesn't happen to me only 😂.
that block of rubber on the left side is Not suppossed to be attached, even when new.. its a bump stop that stops the tranny from rocking the engine back too far under acceleration... the part of the trans mount that should be checked for wear is the central rubber...hold mount sideways to view it in profile, you will see if u compare new to old, that the height of the center mount has collapsed under the weight of the tranny..this transmits the vibration into cabin at driver side..new ones are taller and hold the tranny higher...thats how they are checked
I have a 2008 with a bad vibration too , I'll have to check the mounts now thanks. Only thing that worries me is that it was a very early 2008 and they put leftover 2007 engines in them , hopefully the mounts are identical.
@@dav255 I stuck a floor jack with a block of wood on top of it underneath the oil pan. Don't go crazy just take the pressure off of it so it won't fall
i just bought a 2008 ford focus se ...and it had the same probles .. both motor mounts were bad .. still vibreated .. #1 replaced plugs .. #2 replced coils .. the problem actualy was a (( starting to fail thotle position sensor )) .. replaced it .. 75% better .. put a new feul pump and filter .. now smooth as glass and runs fine .. coils and plugs were good .. weak feul presure and throtle position sensor . was my culperat
Didn’t finish watching the video but it seems like a lot of people just guess on this car and replace the motor mounts without making sure that’s it. But I have a 2000 ford escort zx2 which is the same car except it has the cam phaser on the intake but the engine harmonics are simply rough on this car and the exhaust likes to bottom out on the sub frame and the engine is naturally noisy and the oil controlled phaser causes a lot of valve overlap which is supposed to “increase idle quality” but more valve overlap decreases idle quality but at first when I was watching the video you seemed like you were guessing so I made a dumb comment but it seems like you were correct on this vehicle but I’ve built the engine twice, ported intake and exhaust, re wired entire engine bay harnesses and installed slash welded in new exhaust and when I first bought the car it vibrated at idle and even after I spent the time to make it a fun toy it had more vibration then a normal car and I didn’t replace any mounts I just wire wheeled the metal and painted them and none of them had failed so I was pre judging without watching whole video
Please could you let me know how to fix my Ford focus 208 it's cranking but won't start there's a ful problem after a bolder hit it and put a hole on it av changed it and it won't fire up its turning but won't start is there a safety switch eny we're on it
I have the same vehicle, and I have a lot of vibration when I start my car, but I took my car to a mechanic, and they said they put 3 motor mounts on the vehicle, but my motor is bouncing around like crazy, when I start it, and drive it as well. Do you have any advice?
When I'm supporting the engine with a floor jack I put it right underneath of the oil pan. Make sure to put a piece of wood between the engine and jack. Just be careful and watch as you are jacking. That the car is not raising just the engine. The car might raise a little bit if it's sitting on the ground because you're taking weight off of the suspension.
@@SkylarHillShop Ok excellent, thanks. If I want to change the other motor mount under the battery on the driver side..where would I put the jack? Same place? Thanks!
Ron, on that side I would place the jack under the transmission. Just take a look underneath the vehicle and It should be fairly obvious. Also I should mention. I like to use a 2x6 maybe 10" long or so on top of the jack. It helps to disperse the weight as opposed to a smaller piece of wood.
Thanks for the upload but one important thing I've been looking for and can't find anywhere is the size of the center nut. Can you provide the size of each nut?
I had a escort with a bad vibration and found that the car had hit speed bump or parking stop and it bent the bottom engine frame up and it was touching the engine and this caused the vibration. I wonder if this is the same problem with the focos?
3 mounts the two you changed and one on the bottom of the engine near the transmision. I have that same issue changed twice in 5 years this will be the 3rd LOL
You should try and get OEM ford mounts off of ebay or something similar. In my case, the passenger side mount with bracket is only about 20 more than the cheapest on rock auto. It's totally worth it to go for that rather than getting in there and replacing it so often, it'll definitely save you money in the long run unless you're just doing the bushing and not replacing the bracket.
@@thejoemeister these were all from the Ford dealership that they actually did under warranty...but yes I will get better parts for the $20 difference definitely
The 08 to 11 is actually a pretty good car. Door handles sway bar end links and motor mounts are annoying issues. Cheap easy fixes for all 3. 300k cars easy.
the torque spec is 98 ft lbs for the center nut and the other 4 nuts are torqued to 35 ft lbs
@Maxine Waters You don't have to but I guess if you got the extra time it's not a bad habit to torque power train mounts. I like to torque mounts and torquing is a must for anything that lives in oil but things like shock absorber mounting nuts and engine jewellery, I just go by feel and don't torque.
How do you k kw if you put the transmission to high
where did you get the 98 ft lbs torque rating? The shop manual says 111 ft lbs
The TWO STUDS ARE 59/64FT PDS...THE 3 ON THE SIDE IS 35/38 FT PDS...THE IDEA IS TO TAKE THE 3 BOLTS OFF THE BACK FIRST" THE 2 BOLTS UP FRONT IS FASTEN TO ALUMINUM" ( THEY WILL STRIP OUT IF YOU HAVE TO MUCH PRESSURE ON THE MOTOR UNDERNEATH" RASING THE ENGINE TO HIGH" SO TAKE THE 3 BOLTS OFF THE BACK FIRST" ONCE OFF..LIFT THE ENGINE UP JUST TO A LITTLE BIT" THEN TAKE OUT THE TWO BOLTS...YOU DO THE SAME THING IN REVERSE" WHEN YOU PUT THE NEW MOUNT BACK IN...YOU TOURG THEM BACK DOWN TO SPECS" THEN YOU LOWER THE MOUNT BACK DOWN ( SLOWLY ) ON THE CAR" LINE ONE UP" AND PUT THE 3 BOLTS BACK" & TOURGE THEM DOWN...IT DOESN'T MATTER WHAT YOU THINK OF THIS INFORMATION I JUST PUT ON HERE" BUT THAT OIL IS GOING 2 COME OUT ANY WAY OVER TIME" BUT IF IT'S NOT TIGHTEN DOWN RIGHT..WITH ALL THAT MOVEMENT AND VIBRATION FROM THE MOTOR" YOU WILL NOT GET THE MAXIMUM AMOUNT OF WEAR OUT OF THE MOUNT" THAT'S THE TRUTH OF A PART JUST NOT INSTALLED CORRECTLY"
@@mg6192 THAT'S THE OLD NUMBERS" IF THAT WHAT YOU HAVE BEEN DOING AND IT WORKS GREAT...JUST REMEMBER.. THAT'S ALUMINUM YOUR WORKING ON" LOCK TIGHT ONLY WORKS IF YOU GOT THRED$
You can troubleshoot the mounts by using a jack and block of wood. Put jack under engine, in area more or less under the mount and just have block of wood touch where you will lift. Engage park brake, start car, and just take the weight slightly off suspected faulty engine mount. Don't lift the whole car! If some or all vibration goes away you have just troubleshot a faulty engine mount without guessing. This avoids costly and rookie mistake of just parts replacing.
I also own a Ford Focus. But am I the only one that laughed when the sound didn't go away, these cars are hilarious😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Ford Family In It To Win It
Just so you know, there are THREE mounts; the last being a very important but smaller lower transmission mount.
Used this to change out both mounts. It was the passenger side one. dropped the dB inside the car by 10 in idle! Thank you!!!
Good stuff, just missing the bolt sizes on the one you fixed top left behind the coolant. this video doesn't go to the mount/support underneath so with this and another video i was able to understand what to do. thanks
You must use a FORD OEM Mount. Believe me a knockoff will not work. I’ve tried. I finally shelled out the dough and the car is so quiet. It’s amazing.
If it was my car that's the route I would have gone. Those aftermarket ones are definitely garbage.
The OEM mounts are terrible. Use the Hardrace mounts. 5 year Warranty.
Hi Axe, Thanks for taking the time to upload. I also had an extreme vibration issue on a 2007 Ford Focus I bought used a week ago with 184k miles. The vibration and noise was much worse than your case or any others examples I've seen videos on. I decided to go with just the single hydraulic motor mount that you were trying to repair. I ended up going with an OEM Ford part for $87 shipped on eBay. Glad I did. The vibration and noise is 100% gone and it's so smooth now. I didn't have to replace the two other motor mounts like I thought I might have to. Though, I am still considering getting cheap Chinese made replacement parts for those mounts to keep the main one lasting longer.
If the others are worn that would probably be a wise idea. With that kind of mileage I would imagine they are past their prime.
Maybe I missed something here but for the "Final Torque" it might be handy to have a Torque wrench instead of a breaker bar. 😁
I just bought a 08 Focus with 77k it has the same issue. Thanks for the upload!
You're welcome, definitely worth the time to fix it. I would recommend you get the factory mount. The aftermarket one was just garbage. Stick around, I'll be uploading a thermostat replacement video this fall.
@@SkylarHillShop Yay I need one of those too! Lol
I'm glad I'm reading the comments thermostat fail sweeet video !!! Here I go. Thanks
I appreciate your video. Helps me to understand what the mechanic has to deal with when repairing my car and helps me to understand what he is talking about and helps me to understand the cost.
You're welcome, I'm glad you found it helpful! Have a great week!!
when ever your doing a video and your using sockets it is a good idea to say what size it is it really helps the viewers out and saves time when gathering tools for a job I am a pro tech at a dealership i have been changing this mount for 16 years now and it is a good idea to torque the nuts
Exactly haha what the hell I wondering too what size of sockets he used. How weird not very good video.
@@pono321 post the link to your tutorial buddy.
For anyone wondering, the passenger side mount can be replaced with just a bushing insert for $25, most of the time your looking at the entire bracket assembly online for $80.
14:17 laughing my off butt. sound is still present . Not as pronounced buts its still there. Thank you for proving the universe is not against me and this doesn't happen to me only 😂.
And in the video I was tryin to describe the car hadn’t block learned yet when I’m showing the processed data
Cool how you showed the daylight at the end. Great video
Thanks, I thought that was the best way to show just how worn they were.
that block of rubber on the left side is Not suppossed to be attached, even when new.. its a bump stop that stops the tranny from rocking the engine back too far under acceleration... the part of the trans mount that should be checked for wear is the central rubber...hold mount sideways to view it in profile, you will see if u compare new to old, that the height of the center mount has collapsed under the weight of the tranny..this transmits the vibration into cabin at driver side..new ones are taller and hold the tranny higher...thats how they are checked
I have a 2008 with a bad vibration too , I'll have to check the mounts now thanks. Only thing that worries me is that it was a very early 2008 and they put leftover 2007 engines in them , hopefully the mounts are identical.
Thanks for watching, let us know what you find out. Have a great weekend!
I have an early 08 and it's the same as an 07. And it's the same part as a 09 too cu the NAPA and AutoZone parts fit fine too.
I have been looking for a video on this for a while now! Thanks!
Glad I could help!
@@SkylarHillShop did you need to hold the transmission up with a jack?
@@dav255 I stuck a floor jack with a block of wood on top of it underneath the oil pan. Don't go crazy just take the pressure off of it so it won't fall
What were the torque specs for the the trans mount? Tia
@@brianrichards6303 No idea, probably somewhere around 100 ft lbs.
i just bought a 2008 ford focus se ...and it had the same probles .. both motor mounts were bad .. still vibreated .. #1 replaced plugs .. #2 replced coils .. the problem actualy was a (( starting to fail thotle position sensor )) .. replaced it .. 75% better .. put a new feul pump and filter .. now smooth as glass and runs fine .. coils and plugs were good .. weak feul presure and throtle position sensor . was my culperat
Sounds like they are notorious for wearing, I myself own a 08 Ford Focus and it vibrates like crazy and I can actually move the damn engine
It's annoying somebody hasn't made a better replacement than the factory design.
@@SkylarHillShop Hardrace have had them for years. www.hardrace.com/Product_detail.asp?id=215
08 focus se. Done my engine mounts 3 times in 7 years of ownership. I drive it way too hard (I'm on sr22) but still. Garbage mounts.
Why not put in poly or solid mounts if it's a common issue?
I'm not aware of any. I only found rubber mounts when I bought mine.
Very nice job
Didn’t finish watching the video but it seems like a lot of people just guess on this car and replace the motor mounts without making sure that’s it. But I have a 2000 ford escort zx2 which is the same car except it has the cam phaser on the intake but the engine harmonics are simply rough on this car and the exhaust likes to bottom out on the sub frame and the engine is naturally noisy and the oil controlled phaser causes a lot of valve overlap which is supposed to “increase idle quality” but more valve overlap decreases idle quality but at first when I was watching the video you seemed like you were guessing so I made a dumb comment but it seems like you were correct on this vehicle but I’ve built the engine twice, ported intake and exhaust, re wired entire engine bay harnesses and installed slash welded in new exhaust and when I first bought the car it vibrated at idle and even after I spent the time to make it a fun toy it had more vibration then a normal car and I didn’t replace any mounts I just wire wheeled the metal and painted them and none of them had failed so I was pre judging without watching whole video
Please could you let me know how to fix my Ford focus 208 it's cranking but won't start there's a ful problem after a bolder hit it and put a hole on it av changed it and it won't fire up its turning but won't start is there a safety switch eny we're on it
U ever checked the bottom motor mount? Tgats what was wrong with mine. The bottom was shot
I have the same vehicle, and I have a lot of vibration when I start my car, but I took my car to a mechanic, and they said they put 3 motor mounts on the vehicle, but my motor is bouncing around like crazy, when I start it, and drive it as well. Do you have any advice?
Yeah, my motor mounts are so worn out it starts rough
Don't forget the Torque Strut Mount!
Thanks man peace
Good video..where do you place the jack under the car to lift the engine??
When I'm supporting the engine with a floor jack I put it right underneath of the oil pan. Make sure to put a piece of wood between the engine and jack. Just be careful and watch as you are jacking. That the car is not raising just the engine. The car might raise a little bit if it's sitting on the ground because you're taking weight off of the suspension.
@@SkylarHillShop Ok excellent, thanks. If I want to change the other motor mount under the battery on the driver side..where would I put the jack? Same place? Thanks!
Ron, on that side I would place the jack under the transmission. Just take a look underneath the vehicle and It should be fairly obvious. Also I should mention. I like to use a 2x6 maybe 10" long or so on top of the jack. It helps to disperse the weight as opposed to a smaller piece of wood.
@@SkylarHillShop Thanks much!
A pelón, eres un genio.
Buen video, saludos desde México.
Thanks for the upload but one important thing I've been looking for and can't find anywhere is the size of the center nut. Can you provide the size of each nut?
Sorry I have no idea what size they were.
@@SkylarHillShop No problem! With a little trial and error (Multiple trips to Lowes) I found that I had to use a 7/8" socket for the center nut.
Glad you got it figured out. Did it fix your vibration?
I had a escort with a bad vibration and found that the car had hit speed bump or parking stop and it bent the bottom engine frame up and it was touching the engine and this caused the vibration. I wonder if this is the same problem with the focos?
Wow, that must have taken a good hit. Good job figuring out that one
What did you torque the transmission mount bolts too?
Not sure
Thank you
3 mounts the two you changed and one on the bottom of the engine near the transmision. I have that same issue changed twice in 5 years this will be the 3rd LOL
You should try and get OEM ford mounts off of ebay or something similar. In my case, the passenger side mount with bracket is only about 20 more than the cheapest on rock auto. It's totally worth it to go for that rather than getting in there and replacing it so often, it'll definitely save you money in the long run unless you're just doing the bushing and not replacing the bracket.
@@thejoemeister these were all from the Ford dealership that they actually did under warranty...but yes I will get better parts for the $20 difference definitely
What model is this? (SES?)
Yes
Looks the same as a 2012 ford fusion
Parts cannon
?
this is funny, because you don't know anything about that engine, or how to read TSB's which describe exactly what needs to be replaced
I don't read instructions either ☺️
These cars are pure JUNK!! They basically took over the Ford Escorts! I own a 2008 Focus and it is loud as hell and everything rattles...
Escorts were a nightmare!
I can't speak for the 2008, but the 2009 has been a great little car.
The 08 to 11 is actually a pretty good car. Door handles sway bar end links and motor mounts are annoying issues. Cheap easy fixes for all 3. 300k cars easy.
My 2008 has been a nice, reliable car.
👀