I decided not to go the LV route and wound up using Valvoline Transfer Case Fluid. Their data sheet states the following: "Recommended Applications: GM Auto-Trak II Ford XL-12 Transfer cases requiring Dex/Merc or ATF+4 fluids." Might consider LV in the future but I'll stick with that for now. Great vid and thank you.
What does transfer case do I'm hesitant to drain the oil in their in replays because of all the different oils you talked about or if I should just leave it alone Ford F150 has 170000 miles on it thank you
A transfer case takes power from the back of the transmission and sends it to the front differential. You should do this job at that mileage and it is very easy. The fluid in the description is the correct fluid. Thanks for watching!
So I put Mercon V in the transfer case. I only put a few miles on it. I've got 3 quarts of Mercon LV. Is there a flush process I'm concerned with mixing the two I'm sure there's going to be some Mark V left after I drain it what do you think?
I wouldn't be super concerned with a flush process. Just drain it and fill it with LV. If you really want to be sure run the LV for a little while then drain and fill it again. But if it were my truck I'd just drain and fill with LV. Thanks so much for watching!
Thanks. Do you happen to know if Mercon LV is also to be used on 2004-2008 F150 models (5.4 in my case)? The article does say "for use in all transfer cases" but Amazon says it's not compatible with my vehicle. Also, you forgot to leave a link for the pump
It sure does. Use Mercon LV. Here is the link for the pump amzn.to/329G3eF Amazon isn't updated yet to show the compatibility. They show XT-12 still but it isn't made anymore. Thanks for watching!
im literally only giving a thunbs up cuz you pulled off the fluid explanation but no not only dont used wd40 but dont buy it... we dont use the right stuff cuz we buy that crap and it never goes away so we never buy the right stuff... so never use this for lubing and dont bother for threads closed for 10 years its silly... maybe try so PB Blaster but if thick oil cant get through why would thin oil? so use a rust catalyst like pb blaster it will literally eat the iron oxide...matter of fact i dont personally know of a product that works better... fixed a tight hood latch by morning with one application...
@@jerrymarshall2095 it's the silliest small-minded thing on earth and I'm not continuing this trash talk to clown on the video or method fixing things sometimes it's to each his own because I've told my dad a million times except he's a Master Mechanic born in 1950 so it's not like he's going to listen to anyone let alone his son... PB Blaster literally works like rust Mort it renders the surface almost paintable by morning some people will read that last fact and it will go right over their head here I'll say it again PB Blaster will render any rusted over surface almost damn near paintable by morning that means it literally convert the iron oxide into something else and no I don't know the science behind it I just know it damn well works.... and if anyone needs a little bit of fact behind why you shouldn't use WD-40 at all well surface tension not only attracts contaminants in the air like dust pollen dirt grease whatever but after its attractive it never leaves that means that builds up so imagine what happens when you spray this in a lock cylinder and I'm not talking about at home I'm talking about on Dusty dirty roads in your car so wherever this stuff lands you're just going to attract dust pollen dirt grease whatever and you're going to end up either compromising something or cleaning it really good sometime in the future
@@ryanwyrick6947 damn you must be a master Blaster.ha ha.It was a grand explanation ,thanks I'll take your word for it.Sounds like you know what you're talkin about.I actually have a can of PB blaster.
I just finished. I highly recommend taking the 5-10 minutes to remove the shield covering the transfer case. It will save you the 20 minute clean up.
The overfilled condition could be an output shaft seal leaking from the Transmission to the Transfer case,
I decided not to go the LV route and wound up using Valvoline Transfer Case Fluid. Their data sheet states the following:
"Recommended Applications:
GM Auto-Trak II
Ford XL-12
Transfer cases requiring Dex/Merc or ATF+4 fluids."
Might consider LV in the future but I'll stick with that for now.
Great vid and thank you.
Great tip! Thanks for watching!
So this fluids you mention are good for 1999-2003 Ford F-150 Generations?
@@josea.1102 Yes. You can contact Valvoline to confirm on your end if that makes you feel more comfortable.
Im more concerned on min 3:00 how diff looks 😬😬
Did you use two different trucks in the video?
good video,before draining use a wire brush to clean up the fill an drain plug area.
Thank you
You're welcome!
Your link to the fluid fill tool is broken or not available
So now I’m lost.
I have a 1998 ford f150 4.6 liter. What fluid am I supposed to use?
Mercon LV Thanks for wathcing!
The transfer case was over full because the seal between the transmission and transfer cases out. Very common problem on that truck
First like from SAUDIA
Congratulations
What does transfer case do I'm hesitant to drain the oil in their in replays because of all the different oils you talked about or if I should just leave it alone Ford F150 has 170000 miles on it thank you
A transfer case takes power from the back of the transmission and sends it to the front differential. You should do this job at that mileage and it is very easy. The fluid in the description is the correct fluid. Thanks for watching!
Why did you change to a different transfer case for the fill?
It's the same process literally no different. The camera was better set up on that shoot. Thanks for watching!
So I put Mercon V in the transfer case. I only put a few miles on it. I've got 3 quarts of Mercon LV. Is there a flush process I'm concerned with mixing the two I'm sure there's going to be some Mark V left after I drain it what do you think?
I wouldn't be super concerned with a flush process. Just drain it and fill it with LV. If you really want to be sure run the LV for a little while then drain and fill it again. But if it were my truck I'd just drain and fill with LV. Thanks so much for watching!
What was the fluid transfer pump you used? I don't see the link in the description...
I use one made for outboard boat engines to pump lower unit fluid in .u can prob get em at walmart
Thanks. Do you happen to know if Mercon LV is also to be used on 2004-2008 F150 models (5.4 in my case)? The article does say "for use in all transfer cases" but Amazon says it's not compatible with my vehicle. Also, you forgot to leave a link for the pump
It sure does. Use Mercon LV. Here is the link for the pump amzn.to/329G3eF
Amazon isn't updated yet to show the compatibility. They show XT-12 still but it isn't made anymore. Thanks for watching!
The link doesn't show the clip end just the tube.
All that oil is from the transmission because of the broken seals
Yes most likely. Thanks for watching!
im literally only giving a thunbs up cuz you pulled off the fluid explanation but no not only dont used wd40 but dont buy it... we dont use the right stuff cuz we buy that crap and it never goes away so we never buy the right stuff... so never use this for lubing and dont bother for threads closed for 10 years its silly... maybe try so PB Blaster but if thick oil cant get through why would thin oil? so use a rust catalyst like pb blaster it will literally eat the iron oxide...matter of fact i dont personally know of a product that works better... fixed a tight hood latch by morning with one application...
He'll yeah.tell it like it is.wd aint goin to mysteriously work it's way thru the torqued on threads of a bolt.
@@jerrymarshall2095 it's the silliest small-minded thing on earth and I'm not continuing this trash talk to clown on the video or method fixing things sometimes it's to each his own because I've told my dad a million times except he's a Master Mechanic born in 1950 so it's not like he's going to listen to anyone let alone his son... PB Blaster literally works like rust Mort it renders the surface almost paintable by morning some people will read that last fact and it will go right over their head here I'll say it again PB Blaster will render any rusted over surface almost damn near paintable by morning that means it literally convert the iron oxide into something else and no I don't know the science behind it I just know it damn well works.... and if anyone needs a little bit of fact behind why you shouldn't use WD-40 at all well surface tension not only attracts contaminants in the air like dust pollen dirt grease whatever but after its attractive it never leaves that means that builds up so imagine what happens when you spray this in a lock cylinder and I'm not talking about at home I'm talking about on Dusty dirty roads in your car so wherever this stuff lands you're just going to attract dust pollen dirt grease whatever and you're going to end up either compromising something or cleaning it really good sometime in the future
@@ryanwyrick6947 damn you must be a master Blaster.ha ha.It was a grand explanation ,thanks I'll take your word for it.Sounds like you know what you're talkin about.I actually have a can of PB blaster.